[0001] Facial and other skin lines and wrinkles develop through a combination of aging, heredity, muscle action, sun damage and gravity. Facial and other skin expressions are made by strong muscle contractions, and over time, create skin wrinkles such as forehead lines, crow's feet and the vertical creases between the eyes. Wrinkles mostly result from a strong muscular contraction or from a prolonged time in this position. At the cellular level, the fibroblast cells synthesizing the extracellular matrix and collagen that are located along the tension lines could under the effect of muscular contractions develop particular contractile properties related to striated muscle.

[0002] The junction between a nerve and striated muscle constitutes the neuromuscular plates, upstream of which is the afferent nerve pathway, known as the motor neuron.

[0003] Muscle contraction is caused by acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter. Acetylcholine is released by the nerve that stimulates the muscle. It is known that the skin muscles of the face are under control of motor nerve afferences, and the hypoderm contains fine, flat sheets of striated muscle called the panniculus carnosus that constitute muscle tissue.

[0004] Today such mimic and age-related wrinkles are often treated with Botox (Botulinum toxin A, produced by the pathogenic microorganism Clostridium botulinum) . Botox acts by preventing the release of acetylcholine. This toxin temporally paralyzes the muscle and inhibits contraction. Absences of contractions prevents wrinkles and induces a smooth and rejuvenated skin. Such toxins act as proteases, more specifically zinc endopeptidases targeting the neuronal cytosol : Botox B, D and F, as well as tetanus toxin produced by the Clostridium tetani pathogenic microorganism attack specifically VAMP (also called synaptobrevin) - a protein of synaptic vesicles; Botox A and E cleave SNAP-25 and Botox C acts on syntaxin - both proteins of the presynaptic membrane (See for example Proc. West. Pharmacol. Soc. 43 : 71-74, 2000).

[0005] Botox is injected locally in tissues which are thereby paralyzed. The muscles at the eyes or at the forehead don't operate any more, making the apparition of a forehead wrinkle difficult if not impossible. However, the fact that the treatment with subcutaneously injected Botox has to be conducted by a physician, its consequently high costs and its extremely high toxicity constitute considerable disadvantages. Its effectiveness lasts from 3 to 6 months, whereupon the treatment has to be repeated. Background

[0006] It is known from the European patent applications EP2123673 and EP 1180524 in the name of Lipotec that peptides comprising an amino acid sequence derived from the amino acid sequence of the protein SNAP25 can compete with SNAP 25 by mimicking its N-terminal end and thus interfering in the SNARE complexes. If the SNARE complexes are destabilized, the synaptic vesicles cannot release acetylcholine efficiently and muscle contraction can be altered.

[0007] The mechanism of action of these peptides is similar to that of botulinum toxins focusing on inhibition of neuronal exocytosis of acetylcholine.

[0008] El Far Oussama and col. in WO 2011/448441 in the name of INSERM describes direct molecule interaction between VATPase and SNARE synaptobrevin

(VAMP2). Soluble peptides with sequence corresponding to a portion of a VATPase subunit have the property to interfere with the neurotransmitter release.

[0009] Patent application WO2009/012376 in the name of the University of OHIO

STATE RES FOUND refers to opioid receptors that have been identified in peripheral processes of sensory neurons. Peptides have been used as delta opioid receptor agonists. This binding with the receptors inhibits the release of GABA from the nerve terminal, reducing the inhibitory effect of GABA on dopaminergic neurons.

[00010] Other peptides that are able to acts in a manner similar to Waglerin 1, a snake venom protein, acting at the post-synaptic membrane, as antagonist of the muscular nicotinic acetylcholine receptor are described in patent application

WO2006/047900in the name of Pentapharm.

[00011] Moreover, cell membranes comprise numerous ion channels. Molecules acting as calcium channels inhibitors are for exemple described in the US patent application 2008/0050318 in the name of L'OREAL.

[00012] These calcium channels can be found in human fibroblasts, see for example J. Biol. Chem 267; 10524-10530, 1992; and Science 230 1024-1026, 1988.

[00013] Original peptides isolated from the venom of marine snails belonging to the family of mu-conotoxin or mu-conopeptides and acting as sodium channel inhibitors have been described in patent applications WO2004/099238, WO2002/07678, US2003/050234 or WO2007/054785. Voltage sensitive channels are key components for generating action potentials in electrically excitable cells by forming the action potential upstroke. A great diversity of sodium ion channel types and sub-types exist. All of them are voltage-sensitive sodium channel (VSSC) which open and then close in response to membrane depolarization.

[00014] The mu-conopeptides from venoms of the marine snails are able to block VSSC by blocking directly action potentials in sciatic and olfactory nerves of mouse and pike, for example. The resulting pharmacological effect consists in a block of conductance, leading to loss of function of neuromuscular system as described in the patent application WO2007/054785 in the name of ATHERIS.

[00015] Based on their susceptibility to be blocked by tetrodotoxin (TTX), VGSCs can be divided into tetrodotoxin sensitive (TTX-S) and TTX-resistant (TTX-R) classes. These include the neuronal TTX-S type l/Navl . 1, IilNavl . 2 III/Navl . 3, PNl/Navl . 7 and PN4/Navl. 6, and the skeletal muscle TTX-S u l/Navl. 4.

[00016] Mu-conopeptides target a variety of voltage sensitive sodium channel, blocking primarily the Navl .4 channel.

[00017] To date, no inhibitory activity on sodium channel for cosmetic application has been described or suggested for these peptides.

Invention

[00018] We demonstrate that mu-conopeptides make it possible to neutralize the formation of the expression skin wrinkles on human faces. They can neutralize the effects of microtensions on the skin by relaxing dermal contractile fibroblasts which are assumed to be involved in the genesis of expression wrinkles.

[00019] More particularly mu-conopeptide CnlllC, a 23-residue peptide with three disulfide bridges, blocker of voltage-gated sodium channels particularly the muscular subtype NaV1.4, formulated as a topical product was found to induce specific actions. For example, CnlllC reduces facial lines and wrinkles developped through aging, heredity, sun damage and gravity. These facial lines or wrinkles are characterized by furrows at the periphery of the orifices, namely the nose (nasogenic furrows), the mouth (perioral lines and bitterlines), the forehead and the eyes (crow's feet) around which the facial muscles are located .

[00020] The invention consists in a cosmetic composition comprising as an active substance a cosmetically effective amount of at least one mu-conotoxin peptide comprising the amino acid sequence:

Xaal-Xaa2-Cys-Cys -Xaa3-Xaa4-Xaa5-Xaa6-Xaa7-Cys-Xaa8-Xaa9-Xaal0-Xaal l-

Cys-Xaal2-Xaal3-Xaal4-Xaa l5-Xaal6-Cys-Cys-Xaal7 [SEQ ID No 1]

a biologically active fragment thereof, a salt thereof, a combination thereof and/or variants thereof, and wherein Xaal is any N-modified amino acid,

Xaa2 is glycine,

Xaa3 is any acidic amino acid or any of its amide form,

Xaa4 is glycine,

Xaa5 is proline or 3-hydroxyl-proline, Xaa6 is any basic amino acid,

Xaa7 is glycine,

Xaa8 is any non-aromatic hydroxy! amino acid,

Xaa9 is any non-aromatic hydroxyl amino acid,

XaalO is any basic amino acid,

Xaal l is any aromatic amino acid,

Xaal2 is any basic amino acid,

Xaal3 is any acidic amino acid or any of its amide form,

Xaal4 is any basic amino acid, or any sulfur-containing amino acid,

Xaal5 is any hydrophobic or apolar amino acid, or any non-aromatic hydroxyl amino acid,

Xaal6 is any basic amino acid,

Xaal7 is absent or is any apolar amino acid, or an amide group,

optionally in combination with cosmetic acceptable carriers, diluents and/or adjuvants.

[00021] In one embodiment in the composition of the invention the mu-conotoxin peptide does not comprise at least one amino acid consisting of amino acids Xaa3, Xaa4, Xaa5, Xaa6 and Xaa7, or any combination thereof.

[00022] In one embodiment in the composition of the invention the mu-conotoxin peptide does not comprise at least one amino acid consisting of amino acids Xaa8, Xaa9, XaalO and Xaal l, or any combination thereof.

[00023] In one embodiment in the composition of the invention the mu-conotoxin peptide does not comprise at least one amino acid consisting of amino acids Xaal2, Xaal3, Xaal4, Xaa l5 and Xaal6, or any combination thereof.

[00024] In one embodiment in the composition of the invention the N-modification of amino-acid Xaal in the mu-conotoxin peptide is selected from the group comprising acetylation, formylation, myristoylation or amidation;

Xaa3 and Xaal3 are independently selected from the group comprising aspartic acid (Asp), asparagine (Asn), glutamic acid (Glu), glutamine (Gin) and pyroglutamic acid (pGlu or Z)

Xaa6, XaalO, Xaal2 and Xaal6 are independently selected from the group comprising arginine (Arg), lysine (Lys) and histidine (His);

Xaa8 and Xaa9 are independently selected from the group comprising serine (Ser) and threonine (Thr);

Xaal l is selected from the group comprising phenylalanine (Phe), tyrosine (Tyr), and tryptophane (Trp);

Xaal4 is selected from the group comprising arginine (Arg), lysine (Lys) and histidine (His), cysteine (Cys) and methionine (Met); Xaal5 is selected from the group comprising glycine (Gly), alanine (Ala), valine (Val), leucine (Leu) and isoleucine (He), serine (Ser), threonine (Thr), methionine (Met), cysteine (Cys) and proline (Pro);

Xaal7 is selected from the group comprising glycine (Gly), alanine (Ala), valine (Val), leucine (Leu), isoleucine (He), threonine (Thr), methionine (Met),

phenylalanine (Phe) and proline (Pro).

[00025] In one embodiment in the composition of the invention in the mu-conotoxin peptide, Xaal is pyroglutamate (pGlu).

[00026] In one embodiment in the composition of the invention, in the mu-conotoxin peptide, the amino acid sequence is pGlu-Gly-Cys-Cys-Asn-Gly-Pro-Lys-Gly-Cys-Ser- Ser-Lys-Trp-Cys-Arg-Asp-His-Ala-Arg-Cys-Cys-amide [SEQ ID No 2], a biologically active fragment thereof, a salt thereof, a combination thereof and/or variants thereof.

[00027] The term "variant" refers to a peptide having an amino acid sequence that differ to some extent from a native sequence peptide, that is an amino acid sequence that vary from the native sequence by conservative amino acid substitutions, whereby one or more amino acids are substituted by another with same characteristics and conformational roles. The amino acid sequence variants possess substitutions, deletions, side-chain modifications and/or insertions at certain positions within the amino acid sequence of the native amino acid sequence.

[00028] In one embodiment the at least one mu-conotoxin peptide is present in an amount ranging from 0.05.10 ^"6 to 1.10 ^"4 % by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[00029] In a further embodiment it is present in an amount ranging from 0.05.10 ^"4 to 0.1.10 ^"4 % by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[00030] In a further embodiment it is present in an amount ranging from 0.1.10 ^~4 to 1.10 ^"4 % by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[00031] In a preferred embodiment the composition comprises from 0.05.10 ^"2 to 1 mg/kg of the total weight of the composition.

[00032] In a preferred embodiment the composition comprises from 0.01 to 0.1 mg/kg of the total weight of the composition.

[00033] In a preferred embodiment the composition comprises from 0.1 to 1 mg/kg of the total weight of the composition.

[00034] The anti-wrinkle effect could be observed from 5 minutes after the application of the composition onto the skin. [00035] In one embodiment it could be observed from 10 minutes from the application.

[00036] In one embodiment it could be observed from 20 minutes from the application.

[00037] In one embodiment it could be observed from 20 minutes to 48 hours from the application.

[00038] The anti-wrinkle effet is observed with conventional methods know from the man skilled in the art like analysis of the skin surface carried out by clacuating the standard roughness parameters.

[00039] The invention also consists in the use of a composition of the invention, to prevent and/or treat the intrinsic and extrinsic signs of skin aging : wrinkles, fine lines, discontinuities and roughness of the skin, skin sagging, skin spots and/or loss of brightness of complexion.

[00040] In one embodiment the use of a composition of the invention is to improve the mechanical properties of the skin, in terms of tonicity and/or firmness and/or elasticity of the skin.

[00041] In one embodiment the use of a composition of the invention is to improve the density of the dermis and epidermis, to give or restore volume to the dermis and epidermis.

[00042] In one embodiment the invention is a cosmetic process for treating the wrinkles comprising topically application to the skin of a composition of the invention.

[00043] More particularly it consists of applying such a composition to the areas of the face marked with wrinkles.

[00044] In one embodiment the composition of the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[00045] In one embodiment the composition may be in any presentation form normally used in cosmetics, and it may, for example, be in the form of an optionally gelled aqueous solution, a dispersion of the lotion type, optionally a two-phase lotion, an emulsion obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (0/W emulsion) or conversely (W/O emulsion), or a triple emulsion (W/O/W or 0/W/O emulsion) or a vesicular dispersion of ionic and/or nonionic type. These compositions are typically prepared according to the usual methods.

[00046] In one embodiment the composition is in the form of a cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a foam. [00047] In one embodiment the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional active ingredient selected from brightening, anti-redness agents, sunscreens and UV organic or inorganic filters, hydration, moisturizing, humectants, exfoliants, anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, slimming, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, radical scavenger, self tanning, depilation or shave, hair growth moderator, tightening agents, peptides and vitamins.

[00048] In one embodiment the composition of the invention may comprise at least one adjuvant chosen from adjuvants such as hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, pigments, odor absorbers and dyestuffs.

[00049] The adjuvant is present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.01% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[00050] In one embodiment the composition of the invention may also comprise at least one agent chosen from UVA-active and UVBactive organic and mineral photoprotective agents.

Examples

The product referenced as CnlllC in the following examples is:

pGlu-Gly-Cys-Cys-Asn-Gly-Pro-Lys-Gly-Cys-Ser-Ser-Lys-Trp-Cys -Arg-Asp-His-Ala-Arg- Cys-Cys-amide [SEQ ID No 2] .

Example 1 :

Anti-age soothing day cream ingredients % by weight

Isopropyl palmitate: 20%

Cetearyl alcohol : 10%

Cetyl alcohol : 5%

Ceteareth-33 : 10%

Dimethicone: 5%

Parfume: 0.5%

Preservatives: 0.5%

CnlllC: 0.6.10 ^"4 %

Water: QSP100

Example 2:

Cream for mature skin

Carbomer: 0.2%

Glycerin : 3.5%

Potassium sorbate: 0.1% Steareth 10: 1.5% Cetearyl alcohol dicetyl phosphate: 3.5%

Dimethicone: 2.0%

Sorbitan sterarate: 0.4%

Sodium hydroxyde: 0.2%

CnlllC: 0.2.10 ^"4 %

Water: QSP 100

Example 3:

Quantification of the anti-wrinkles effect on humans

[00051] The principle is to quantify the micro cutaneous relief by analyzing the deformation of networks of high-contrast lines projected on the surface under investigation on healthy human volunteers.

[00052] Parameters are quantified on a series of profiles perpendicular to the lines and wrinkles in the measurement zone.

[00053] The product was conceived for once daily application. We aimed at assessing the effect of the topical product versus placebo through an in vivo evaluation protocol, performed using a skin bioengineering method, namely in vivo fringe projection.

[00054] The concentration of the tested composition is 0.6 mg/kg, soit 0.0000006 % (w/w).

[00055] The measurements are carried out on both half of the face for the peribuccale, the Crow's foot, and forehead wrinkles. They are taken using an optical system dedicated to the metrology of the relief of surfaces. The analysis of the cutaneous topography of the surface is carried out by calculating the parameters of standard roughness.

[00056] The protocol was conducted as a double-blind, active versus placebo trial, on 30 subjects over an eight hours period, during which volunteers were checked three times (TO, T2h and T8h), both clinically and for the changes of the cutaneous relief. The measurements were made using an optical system dedicated to the relief of metrology surfaces. This system includes a sensor associated with a projector and a CCD camera highresolution - Dermatop system (EoTech, France) - associated with the acquisition software Optocat (EoTech, France).

[00057] The average axial and lateral resolutions are of the order of 10 microns.

[00058] At the end of the trial, tolerability was good . The enrolled volunteers expressed their full satisfaction regarding the product under study. A single acquisition is made by area. The visualization on the screen of the initial acquisition (TO) allows the correct repositioning of the Tn area. Analysis

[00059] Analysis of the skin surface is carried out by calculating the standard roughness parameters. These parameters are extracted from an area of 30 x 40 mm (12 cm ² ). Analysis of data obtained by fringe projection, on the study areas is performed through the analysis system and Toposurf Optocat.

Profile parameter

[00060] ST or SPt: Maximum amplitude of relief (mm).

[00061] For crow's feet, decreasing ST means a reduction of main wrinkles. This parameter is sensitive to artifacts.

[00062] Spa or SA: Average roughness (mm). It means changes in amplitude of the relief of the surface studied. A decrease in this parameter means a surface smoothing and a reduction of wrinkles and fine lines.

[00063] SPQ or SQ : Average of the dispersion of changes in relief (mm) using square deviation. Same interpretation as SA even if this parameter is less sensitive to artifacts.

Morphology parameters

[00064] Wrinkles and fine lines are detected after the use of multiple filters and correctionpolynomial to remove the shape and flatten the study area.

[00065] Mean area of the wrinkles (mm ² ) This parameter corresponds to the mean area of objects (lines and wrinkles) detected in the study area.

[00066] Average volume of wrinkles (mm3). This parameter corresponds to the average volume of objects.

[00067] (lines and wrinkles) detected in the study area.

[00068] Average depth of wrinkles (mm). This parameter corresponds to the average depth of objects (lines and wrinkles) detected in the study area.

[00069] The results are shown in figures 1, 2 and 3.

[00070] Figure 1 shows effect of CnlllC on Crow's feet wrinkles and rugosity.

[00071] Figure 2 shows effect of CnlllC on forehead wrinkles and rugosity.

[00072] Figure 3 represent a comparison of the effects on Crow's feet and forehead wrinkles.

[00073] In each figure:

*p<0.05 student. Statistically significant vs TO in favor of CnlllC.

°p<0.05 Wilcoxont. CnlllC statistically different from placebo.

[00074] The results as shown in figures 1, 2 and 3 demonstrate that the anti- wrinkles effect is significant. CnlllC significantly reduces wrinkles and fine lines appearance of Crow's feet according to clinical evaluation : 5 % after 2 hours of application on forehead and crows feet and more than 8% against placebo for SA parameters .