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Title:
ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, USE OF THE ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC COMPOSITION
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2022/217325
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
The present invention is directed to an antiperspirant cosmetic composition which combines exfoliant peeling agent, emollients, and aluminum salts to achieve a stable cosmetic composition that provides sweat and unpleasant odor protection. Additionally, the present invention is directed to the use of an antiperspirant cosmetic composition and process for manufacturing of an antiperspirant cosmetic composition.

Inventors:
SALOMAO BRUNA RODRIGUES (BR)
FLORIDO FRANCA JOÃO VITOR (BR)
Application Number:
PCT/BR2021/050152
Publication Date:
October 20, 2022
Filing Date:
April 14, 2021
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
OREAL (FR)
SALOMAO BRUNA RODRIGUES (BR)
International Classes:
A61Q15/00; A61K8/06; A61K8/26; A61K8/28; A61K8/365; A61K8/368; A61K8/37
Domestic Patent References:
WO1989002264A11989-03-23
Foreign References:
US20170172894A12017-06-22
US6159479A2000-12-12
CA2138110A11995-07-11
US3792068A1974-02-12
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
NAKATA, Carolina et al. (BR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
SET OF CLAIMS

1. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) 0.1% to 3% of exfoliant peeling agent selected from capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof; (b) 3% to 35% of emollient selected from fatty acid isopropyl esters, chosen from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) 5% to 50% of antiperspirant agent(s) selected from aluminum salts; wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

2. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the exfoliant peeling agent is in a range of 0.15% to 2%, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the emollient is in a range of 3.5% to 27%, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein the aluminum salts are selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.

5. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein the aluminum salts are in a range of 10% to 45%, based on the total weight of the composition. 6. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises surfactant and water, or wax.

7. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 6, wherein the surfactant is selected from Cu-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside.

8. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 6, wherein the surfactant is present in range of 2% to 10% based on the total weight of the composition.

9. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 6, wherein the wax/oil is selected from hydrogenated castor oil.

10. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 6, wherein the wax is in range of 2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, comprising (a) 0.1% to 1% of capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) 6% to 30% of emollient selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, and mixtures thereof;

(c) 12% to 38% of antiperspirant agent(s) selected from aluminum salts, selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof; wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition. 12. An antiperspirant cosmetic composition, according to claim 11 , wherein it further comprises surfactant and water, or wax.

13. An use of antiperspirant cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) 0.1% to 3% of exfoliant peeling agent selected from capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof; (b) 3% to 35% of emollient selected from fatty acid isopropyl esters, chosen from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) 5% to 50% of antiperspirant agent(s) selected from aluminum salts; wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition; wherein it is for the manufacture of a product for protecting against sweat and malodorous odor, wherein the antiperspirant cosmetic composition further comprises surfactant and water, or wax. 14. A process of manufacturing an antiperspirant cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) 0.1% to 3% of exfoliant peeling agent selected from capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) 3% to 35% of emollient selected from fatty acid isopropyl esters, chosen from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) 5% to 50% of antiperspirant agent(s) selected from aluminum salts; the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition, wherein the process comprises the step of :

(i) in a vessel, solubilizing the exfoliant peeling agent into the emollient(s) at room temperature, mixing well;

(ii) in another vessel, mixing 50% of the water phase with hydrophilic actives;

(iii) in the vessel of step (ii), adding the remaining oil phase/ingredients and the product of step (i), and heating until 75°C;

(iv) performing an emulsion step with high shear for at least 10 min;

(v) cooling the mixture and adding aluminum salt(s);

(vi) adding fragrance (if any) and other additional ingredients under 40 °C, forming the W/O emulsion.

15. A process of manufacturing an antiperspirant cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) 0.1% to 3% of exfoliant peeling agent selected from capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) 3% to 35% of emollient selected from fatty acid isopropyl esters, chosen from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) 5% to 50% of antiperspirant agent(s) selected from aluminum salts; the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition, wherein the process comprises the step of:

(i) in a vessel, solubilizing the exfoliant peeling agent into the emollient(s) at room temperature, mixing well;

(ii) heating the solubilized exfoliant peeling agent of step (i), with the oil phase, wax(s), fatty compounds until 65 °C;

(iii) stirring the heated mixture at least for 10 minutes;

(iv) cooling until 55 °C and adding aluminum salts and other additional ingredients;

(v) filling the product for solidification forming the stick bar.

Description:
ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, USE OF THE ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING AN ANTIPERPIRANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to an antiperspirant cosmetic composition which combines exfoliant peeling agents, emollients, and aluminum salts to achieve a stable antiperspirant cosmetic composition that provides sweat and unpleasant odor protection. Additionally, the present invention is directed to the use of an antiperspirant cosmetic composition and process for manufacturing an antiperspirant cosmetic composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Sweating, though a natural bodily function, results in the formation of wet patches on human skin and/or clothing. Moreover, the sweat secreted from sweat glands has a tendency to form a malodorous due to its interaction with the many microorganisms which reside on the skin surface, particularly the skin of the underarm. These two phenomena are deemed to be undesirable for consumers.

Products are commonly available which help to address both phenomena. More particularly, antiperspirant products possess ingredients which inhibit/suppress sweating, whereas deodorant products possess ingredients that mask the malodors caused by sweat. Many products address both phenomena simultaneously.

Antiperspirant active agents generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxy halides. These substances help to reduce the flow of sweat.

A variety of different antiperspirant products are available in the market, such as powders, liquids, gels, emulsions, soft solids and sticks.

To achieve a satisfactory antiperspirant effect, it is needed to use high concentrations of antiperspirant active agents. Such high concentration of antiperspirant active agents affects the stabilization of the cosmetic composition in view of the interaction with the other ingredients, as well as can cause irritation to the skin.

Such stabilization of antiperspirant cosmetic composition is also impacted when the composition comprises exfoliant peeling agents such as salicylic acid derivatives. Such compounds occur in crystalline form and are not soluble in water or in oils traditionally used in the cosmetic field. Consequently, they tend to remain crystalline within various compositions, which significantly reduces the bioavailability of the compound and the cosmetic composition. In addition, the presence of crystalline salicylic acid derivatives provides formulations which are unstable due, for example, to settling, and which are unpleasant regarding texture and appearance from consumer’s viewpoint.

Documents discussing the solubilization of salicylic acid derivatives was found in the state of the art. However, as will be detailed below, such documents do not disclose the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention, using the specific combination of ingredients, that is preferable alcohol-free, being capable to provide the benefits of the present invention.

Document US 6,159,479 is directed to stable hydrous salicylic acid derivative compositions useful as cosmetic and/or dermatologic formulations. In such prior art, the solubilization of salicylic acid derivatives in hydrous aqueous solutions for cosmetic applications, uses solubilizers like octyldodecanol, which is not desirable according to the present invention.

Document CA2138110 discloses to solubilization of salicylic acid derivatives in vegetable oils, like flowers and fruit oils, using a process that involves the rising of temperature to achieve the solubilization. However, those oils are complex mixtures of many different classes of compounds, and it may impact on the stability and the cost of formulas. Furthermore, such document uses a different process to solubilize the salicylic acid derivatives (hot process).

In this sense, considering the needs of the current cosmetic market and the teachings of the state of the art, the present invention aims to provide a stable antiperspirant cosmetic composition combining exfoliant peeling agent, emollients, and aluminum salts that provides protection against sweat and malodors while maintaining the physical stability of the composition and having properly cosmeticity and sensoriality for cosmetics/antiperspirants applications.

Particularly, the invention achieves the desired antiperspirant effect in the presence of high concentration of aluminum salts, exfoliant peeling agent and emollients, while maintaining the physical stability, which was achieved by the specific raw materials and concentration ranges. Preferably, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention is alcohol-free.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention provides good sensorial, good spreadability, less thickness, brightness, refreshing properties, hydration, and softness to the skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to an antiperspirant cosmetic composition comprising exfoliant peeling agent, emollients, and antiperspirant agents.

Such antiperspirant cosmetic composition is stable over the time (physical stability), providing protection against sweat and malodors, and also have achieved good consumer perceiving such as good sensorial, good spreadability, less thickness, brightness, refreshing properties, hydration and softness to the skin.

Additionally, the present invention is directed to the use of an antiperspirant cosmetic composition and process for manufacturing an antiperspirant cosmetic composition.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

TERMS

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present invention. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable to use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the invention concepts as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant state of the art.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

The term “hydrophilic actives” means ingredients that are water-soluble.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

All percentages, parts and ratios are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the specific ingredient level and, therefore, do not include solvents, carriers, by-products, fillers (preferably talc and perlite) or other minor ingredients that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which can encompass +/- 10%, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0.5%.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

Figure 1 illustrates the scale of solubilization in mass of capryloyl salicylic acid/mass of emollient and has the purpose to find a limit of solubilization by the visual aspect.

Figure 2 illustrates the scale of solubilization in mass of capryloyl salicylic acid/mass of emollient and has the purpose to find a limit of solubilization by the visual aspect (upper view).

Figure 3 illustrates the particularity of the emollient of the invention for the solubilization of the active. According to the state of art, emollients for antiperspirant purposes like dimethicone, are not able to provide the availability to the exfoliant peeling agent (capryloyl salicylic acid) in the selected proportion.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) about 0.1% to about 3% of exfoliant peeling agent, selected from capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 3% to about 35% of emollient selected from fatty acid isopropyl esters, chosen from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) about 5% to about 50% of antiperspirant agents selected from aluminum salts, wherein all the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention, the exfoliant peeling agent of the composition of the present invention is in a range of from about 0.15% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The emollient of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention is in a range of from about 3.5% to about 27%, preferably from about 6% to about 25%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The antiperspirant agent of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.

The antiperspirant agent of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention is in a range of from about 10% to about 45% and more preferably from about 12% to about 38%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises surfactant and water (emulsion format), or wax (anhydrous stick format).

The surfactant(s) is(are) selected from C -22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside.

Also, the surfactant is present in a range of from about 2% to about 10%, preferably from about 3% to about 8%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The wax is selected from hydrogenated castor oil.

The wax is in range of from about 2% to about 6% by weight, preferably from about 2.5 % to about 5%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition may be in the form of lotions, milks, creams, gels, gel creams, foams, roll-on, sprays, and sticks.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.

In a preferred embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition is in emulsion formats (W/O) (such as roll-on format), or anhydrous stick formats.

In an emulsion embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention has a pH of from about 3.5 to about 5.0, preferably from about 4.0 to about 4.5.

In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition for manufacturing a product for reducing, masking or absorbing human malodorous.

An example of suitable antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) from about 0.1% to about 1% of capryloyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) from about 6% to about 25% of emollient selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, and mixtures thereof;

(c) from about 12% to about 38% of antiperspirant agent(s) selected from aluminum salts, selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof; wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises surfactant and water, or wax.

The surfactant is selected from Cu-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside.

The surfactant is present in a range of 2% to 10% based on the total weight of the composition.

The wax according to the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from hydrogenated castor oil.

Also, the wax is in range of 2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another non-limitative suitable example of antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) from about 0.15% to about 2% of capryloyl salicylic acid;

(b) from about 3.5% to about 27% of emollient selected from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, and mixtures thereof;

(c) from about 12% to about 38% of antiperspirant agent(s) selected from aluminum salts, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, and mixtures thereof; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises surfactant and water, or wax. The surfactant is selected from Cu-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside.

The surfactant is present in range of 3% to 8% based on the total weight of the composition.

The wax according to the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from hydrogenated castor oil.

Also, the wax is in range of 2.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise deodorant active agents. Preferred deodorant active agents may be selected from zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof.

If present, the deodorant active agent is in a range of from about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably about 0.5% to about 3%, and more preferably from about 1% to 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXFOLIANT PEELING AGENTS

The exfoliant peeling agents according to the present invention include salicylic acid, salicylates, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof. The degree of peeling/exfoliation will depend on the amount of peeling ingredient.

In a preferential embodiment, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises capryloyl salicylic acid, which is a derivative (ester) of salicylic acid (2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid), known as lipohydroxy acid (LHA).

Likewise to salicylic acid, the capryloyl derivative has exfoliating and soothing properties, as well as documented improvement in skin tone, wrinkles, and clogged pores. Additionally, capryloyl salicylic acid has many cosmetic functions such as an anti-aging and anti-acne active.

Particularly, such ingredient is more lipophilic or fat-dissolving, allowing a gentle exfoliation by weakening bonds between the cells of the surface layer of the stratum corneum. It also possesses astringent properties that further enable better skin protection.

The exfoliant peeling agent of the composition of the present invention is in a range of from about 0.1% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.15% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, based on the total weight of the composition.

EMOLLIENT

The antiperspirant cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises emollient(s) selected from fatty acid isopropyl esters, chosen from isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof. Such emollient(s) of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention are vehicle to solubilize the exfoliant peeling agent and provide properly cosmeticity and sensoriality for cosmetics/antiperspirants applications.

Further to the preferential emollients, the composition of the present invention may comprises cetearyl octanoate, hexyl laurate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, and also di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, or acetates; or mixtures of synthetic esters.

The emollient of the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention is in a range of from about 3% to 35%, preferably from about 3.5% to about 27%, preferably from about 6% to about 25%, based on the total weight of the composition.

ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE AGENTS

The term “antiperspirant ingredient” means any substance capable of reducing the flow of sweat. The antiperspirant ingredients which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from aluminum salts, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, and mixtures thereof. Other examples are the zirconium salts, complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of aluminum salts useful in the invention include, for example, aluminum chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulphate buffered by sodium aluminum lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.

Complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). They are disclosed, for example, in patent US-3792068. The ZAG complexes usually exhibit an Al/Zr quotient ranging from about 1 .67 to 12.5 and a Metal/Cl quotient ranging from about 0.73 to 1.93. Non-limiting examples of these complexes include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachloro-hydrex glycine aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the antiperspirant ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 103, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 301 , aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY (INCI name), in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH AZP-908, and mixtures thereof. Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY can be combined with a maximum of 5% of aluminum chlorohydrate.

The antiperspirant ingredients are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a range of from about 5% to about 50%, preferably from about 10% to about 45%, preferably from about 12% to about 38%, based on the total weight of the composition.

SURFACTANTS

In addition to the essential surfactant of the invention, the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprises additional surfactants such as alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside. Oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO/PO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may be made to steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 40 and beheneth 100. Alkyl- esters of glycerol includes glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol) can be cited, preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and tristearate).

Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid 20 comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, polyglycerol esters of fatty acid are selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least a fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters derived from the reaction comprising 4 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid. There may be mentioned for example the ester from polyglyceryl-10 reaction (glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units) and lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl- 10 laurate) such as that marketed by the company Dr Straetmans under the DERMOFEEL reference G 10 L, the ester from the reaction polyglycerol-4 (glycerol 5 homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as that marketed by Evonik under the reference Tegosoft PC 41.

Other examples of nonionic surfactants to be used in the surfactant system of the present invention include polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide of the structure below: H-(0-CH2-CH2)a-(0-CH(CH 3 )-CH2)b-(0-CH2-CH2)a-0H, in which a, a’ range from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100.

In the chemical structure described above, preferably, a and a’ range from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80, better still a and a’ range from 50 to 130 and b ranges from 30 to 80, and even better still a and a’ range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to one particular embodiment, a and a’ are identical.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19 000, better still ranging from 1200 to 15 000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10000 and even better still ranging from 1500 to 5000. As polycondensate products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate products sold under the name Synperonic, for instance Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) by the company BASF.

Preferred surfactants may be selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or benehyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the additional surfactants may range from about 2% to about 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfumes/fragrances, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, additional actives agents, vitamins, polymers, deodorant active agents, thickening agents, fatty compounds, oils, waxes, fillers, surfactants, whitening agents/active compounds and mixtures thereof.

Additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1% to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE ANTIPERSPIRANT COSMETIC

COMPOSITION

The process to obtain the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the invention in a emulsion format is described as follows:

(i) in a vessel, solubilizing the exfoliant peeling agent into the emollient(s) at room temperature, mixing well;

(ii) in another vessel, mixing 50% of the water phase with hydrophilic actives;

(iii) in the vessel of step (ii), adding the remaining oil phase/ingredients and the product of step (i) and heating until 75°C;

(iv) performing an emulsion step with high shear for at least 10 min;

(iv) cooling the mixture and adding aluminum salt(s);

(v) adding fragrance (if any) and other additional ingredients under 40 °C, forming the W/O emulsion.

Another process to obtain the antiperspirant cosmetic composition of the present invention in an anhydrous stick format is described as follows:

(i) in a vessel, solubilizing the exfoliant peeling agent into the emollient(s) at room temperature, mixing well;

(ii) heating the solubilized exfoliant peeling agent of step (i) with the oil phase, wax(s), fatty compounds until 65 °C;

(iii) stirring the heated mixture at least for 10 minutes;

(iv) cooling until 55 °C and adding aluminum salts and others additional ingredients;

(v) filling the product for solidification forming the stick bar.

EXAMPLES 1 to 5

Table 1 : Compositions of the present invention are Examples 1 to 3 and

Comparative Compositions are Examples 4 and 5

Example 6

A screening test was carried out with emollients in order to evaluate solubilization of the exfoliant peeling agent. In such test, 1g of exfoliant peeling agent was mixed with 46g of the emollient in room temperature using Speed Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifuge force) for 3 minutes, 3500 rpm.

The aspect of the mixtures was analyzed, looking for suspended or decanted particles and a comparison with the pure emollient was made. The samples were also submitted into a stress test at 4 °C for one week to observe if the recrystallization will occur. This protocol was executed with the emollients: dimethicone, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, PEG-6, dicaprylyl carbonate, glyceryl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, and octyldodecanol.

The conclusion of the test was that the best visual aspect the formulas comprising isopropyl myristate and diisopropyl adipate (Ex. 1 and Ex. 2).

Also, Figure 3 illustrates the solubilization test of isopropyl myristate (invention) and dimethicone (comparative).

Example 7

Another solubilization test was carried out with a composition comprising dimethicone of Ex.4 and a composition comprising dimethicone and ethanol of Ex. 5 in view of Ex. 1 and Ex. 2.

It was concluded that Ex. 4 did not present a homogeneous aspect after stability protocol and present lack of solubility which impact negatively in the efficacy of the composition.

Concerning Ex. 5, such composition showed a little better aspect in view of the stability. However, ethanol irritates the skin and it is a raw material not well appreciated in antiperspirant cosmetic composition.

Ex. 1 and Ex. 2 show a better stability and homogeneous aspect when compared with Ex. 4 and Ex. 5.




 
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