Aqueous dispersion of polyalkene supramolecular polymer

and its use in cosmetics

The present invention relates to an aqueous dispersion of supramolecular polymer, a cosmetic composition comprising said aqueous dispersion and a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials comprising the application of such composition. The supramolecular polymers are interesting in the cosmetic field, particularly for make-up products, skincare products or hair products, for their film-forming properties exhibiting good hold and non-transfer of the deposit during contact with clothing or a glass.

In application EP-A-2189151 , make-up compositions are known containing a poly- mer of polycondensate type containing polyalkene polymer, diisocyanate and a compound with a supramolecular group like the group ureidopyrimidone. However, such a polymer is soluble in hydrocarbon organic solvents like isododecane and is therefore difficult to incorporate in aqueous cosmetic compositions such as shampoos, aqueous gels (for example care compositions in the form of serum) and aque- ous emulsions. What is more, after spreading and evaporation of the organic solvent, this polymer in organic solution gives a film that exhibits a tacky appearance.

We have observed that such a polymer cannot be formulated in cosmetic compositions with high contents, for example greater than 30% by weight, because the mix- ture sets and the composition cannot be handled. Moreover, the film obtained with such a polymer does not exhibit optimal surface properties, particularly its properties of softness to the touch.

Therefore a need exists to be able to formulate a supramolecular polymer with a polyalkene backbone in aqueous substrates and to obtain a film after application and drying that exhibits a non-tacky or low-tack appearance.

The inventors have discovered that an aqueous dispersion of the polyalkene supramolecular polymer may be obtained using a specific surfactant system as described hereinafter. Such an aqueous dispersion exhibits good stability properties, especially after storage at ambient temperature for 1 week or even for 1 month. What is more, the polymer film obtained after application of the aqueous dispersion to a substrate and evaporation of the water exhibits a non-tacky or low-tack appearance. The aqueous dispersion also allows the easy incorporation of the polyalkene supra- molecular polymer in aqueous compositions without resorting to the use of organic solvents, especially in cosmetic compositions. A subject of the invention is therefore an aqueous dispersion of a polyalkene supra- molecular polymer with a specific surfactant system as described hereinafter.

Another subject of the invention is a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising an aqueous dispersion as described previously.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process, especially a cosmetic process, for keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of an aqueous dispersion or of a composition, especially a cosmetic composi- tion, containing the composition as defined previously.

The aqueous dispersion of polymer is presented in the form of a dispersion of polymer particles in water. The size of the polymer particles in dispersion in the aqueous phase may range from 5 nm to 600 nm, and preferably from 80 nm to 400 nm.

In the sense of the present invention, polyalkene supramolecular polymer is understood to mean a polymer including in its structure at least one polyalkene portion and at least one portion including at least one group that can form at least three hydrogen bonds, preferably four hydrogen bonds.

The supramolecular polymers of the invention may especially be from the condensation of at least one polyalkene polymer (A) functionalized by at least one reactive group, with at least one functionalized graft (B) by at least one reactive group that can react with the reactive group or groups of the functionalized polyalkene polymer, said graft bearing at least one group that can form at least three hydrogen bonds, preferably four hydrogen bonds.

Preferably, the functionalized polyalkene polymer (A) has formula A1 :

HX-P-X'H

- where XH and ΧΉ are reactive groups, with X and X', which may be identical or different, chosen from O, S, NH and NR _a , R _a representing a linear or branched Ci- C6 alkyl group;

- P represents a homo- or copolymer that can be obtained by polymerization of one or more linear, cyclic and/or branched, mono- or polyunsaturated C2-C5 alkenes.

P preferably represents a polyethylene, a polybutylene, a polybutadiene, a hydro- genated polybutadiene, a polyisoprene, a poly(1 ,3-pentadiene), a polyisobutylene, and their copolymers such as poly(ethylenebutylene), preferably a hydrogenated polybutadiene.

Poly(ethylene/butylenes) are copolymers of 1 -butene and of ethylene. They may be represented schematically by the following sequence of units:

[-CH2-CH2-] and [-CH ₂ CH(CH ₂ -CH ₃ )-] The polybutadienes may be 1 ,4-polybutadienes or 1 ,2-polybutadienes, which may be represented schematically, respectively, by the following sequences of units: [-CH ₂ -CH=CH-CH ₂ -] (1 ,4-polybutadienes)

5 [-CH ₂ -CH(CH=CH ₂ )-] (1 ,2-polybutadienes)

Preferably, they are 1 ,2-polybutadienes.

Polyisoprenes may be represented schematically by the following sequences of units:

]_ Q { CHj C C~ -CHj ) n gnd CHj

A mixture of above units may obviously also be used, so as to form copolymers.

The functionalized polyalkene polymer is preferably functionalized at the end of the 15 chain. They are then referred to as telechelic polymers.

Preferably, the functionalized polyalkene polymers have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) of greater than or equal to 1000, especially between 1000 and 5000, or even between 1500 and 3500.

2 0

The functionalized polyalkene polymers may be totally hydrogenated to avoid the risks of crosslinking.

Preferably, for the polyalkene polymer HX-P-X'H, X and X' are identical. Particularly 25 X = X' = O.

Among the preferred HX-P-X'H polyalkene polymers, mention may be made of pol- ydienes, which are preferably hydrogenated, containing hydroxyl functions, preferably hydroxyl end groups, and polyolefins containing hydroxyl end groups.

30 The polydienes containing hydroxyl end groups are especially defined, for example, in FR 2 782 723. They may be chosen from polybutadiene, polyisoprene and poly(1 ,3-pentadiene) homopolymers and copolymers. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) of less than 7000, preferably between 1000 and 5000; and present functionality at the hydroxyl ends of 1 .8 to 3, and preferably in

35 the region of 2. Mention will be made in particular of the hydroxylated polybutadienes sold by the company Cray Valley under the brand names Poly BD R-45HT and Poly BD R-20 LM, which will preferably be used hydrogenated; and also hydrogenated dihydroxylated (1 ,2-polybutadienes), such as GI3000 of Mn = 3100, GI2000 (Mn = 2100) and GI1000 (Mn = 1500) sold by the company Nisso. Among the polyolefins with hydroxyl end groups, mention may be made preferably of polyolefins, homopolymers or copolymers with α,ω-hydroxyl end groups, such as polyisobutylenes with α,ω-hydroxyl end groups; and the copolymers having formula:

especially those sold by Mitsubishi under the brand name Polytail.

The supramolecular polymers of the present invention have in their structure at least one graft bearing at least one group that can form at least three hydrogen bonds, preferably at least four hydrogen bonds.

The groups that can form at least three hydrogen bonds may comprise for example at least three functional groups, preferably at least four functional groups, chosen from:

\ \ \ \ \

C=O c=s P=O C=NH S=O

/ / / / /

C=CH -SH -OH C=N— — C≡N -NH2

/

These functional groups may be classified into two categories:

- hydrogen bond donor functional roups such as the groups:

- and hydrogen bond acceptor functional groups such as the groups:

\ \ \ \

C=O C=S C=N— S=O

/ / / / The groups that can form at least three hydrogen bonds form a basic structural element including at least three groups, preferably at least four groups and more preferably four functional groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds. The basic structural elements capable of establishing three or four hydrogen bonds may be represented schematically in the following manner:

(X ₄ or Y ₄ )'

where (i is a natural integer) is a hydrogen bond acceptor functional group and is a hydrogen bond donor functional group.

Thus, each structural element should be capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more partner structural elements, which are identical (i.e. self-complementary) or different, such that each pairing of two partner structural elements takes place by the formation of at least three hydrogen bonds, preferably at least four hydrogen bonds and more preferably four hydrogen bonds.

A proton acceptor X will pair with a proton donor Y.

Several possibilities are thus offered, for example pairing of:

XXXX with YYYY;

XXXY with YYYX;

XXYX with YYXY;

XYYX with YXXY;

XXYY with YYXX self-complementary or otherwise;

XYXY with YXYX self-complementary or otherwise.

Preferably, the groups may establish four hydrogen bonds with an identical (or self- complementary) partner group among which are two donor bonds (for example NH) and two acceptor bonds (for example CO and -C=N-). Preferably, the groups that can form at least three hydrogen bonds include 5- or 6- membered rings (aromatic rings or unsaturated heterocycles) very often constituted of C and/or N atoms and with conjugated double bonds to stabilize and direct the hydrogen interactions.

Even more preferably, the groups that can form at least three hydrogen bonds are part of 6-membered rings comprising C and/or N atoms and with conjugated double bonds to stabilize and direct the hydrogen interactions.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the groups that can form at least three or four hydrogen bonds are chosen from the following families, it being understood that all the tautomeric forms are included:

- (i) aminopyrimidones having formula:

- (ii) ureidopyrimidones having formula:

(iia) imidazolidones having formula:

in which:

Q denotes a divalent hydrocarbon substituent having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by a -COO- -OCO-, -CO-, -O-, -S-, -NH-, -CONH- group; X denotes a divalent nucleophilic group chosen from -ΝΗ-,-NRb-, -O-, -S-,

-OOC-; Rb denotes a Ci-C ₄ alkyl group;

R'1 denotes a single bond constituting the connection point on the rest of the graft.

- (iii) acylaminopyridines and especially:

- monoacylaminopyridines having structure:

- di(acylamino)pyridines and more particularly 2,6-di(acylamino)pyridines having structure:

- (iv) aminopyrimidines, and especially:

- aminopyrimidine compounds:

- diaminopy midine compounds having structure:

triaminopyrimidine compounds;

- (v) ureidotriazines, and especially mono-, di- and tri-ureidotriazines, and in particular ureidoaminotriazines having structure:

- (vi) (acylamino)t azines and especially mono-, di- and tri-acylamino triazines, optionally amino (mono-, di- or triamino), in particular:

- di(acylamino)triazines having structure:

- acylamino, amino-triazines, (mono- or diacylamino, and mono- or diamino) and especially compounds having structure:

acylaminotriazines having structure:

- t -acylaminothazines;

- (vii) aminotriazines, and especially:

- monoaminotriazines;

- 2,6-diamino-s-triazines having structure:

NHR ₁ ^ ^NHR ₁

R2

triamino-s-thazine compounds having structure:

NHR^ MHR.

N^N NHR 1

- (viii) acylaminotriazoles having structure: ^R3

- (ix) compounds of the urazoylbenzoic acid family having structure:

(x) phthalhydrazides having structure

- (xi) uracils having structure:

- (xii) thymines having structure:

succinimides having structure

- (xiv) gluta mides having structu

- (xv) compounds of the cyanuric acid family having structure:

- (xvi) maleimides:

- (xvii) compounds of the barbituric acid family, having structure:

- (xix) compounds of the trime formula:

- (xx) ureidopyridines, especially mono- or di-ureidopyridines, and in particular those having formula:

- (xxii) adenines having fornnula: In all of these formulae, the substituents have the following meanings:

- (a) the substituents Ri , which may be identical or different, represent a single bond, a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom and/or a linear, branched or cyclic, C1-C6000, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic monovalent carbon-based group (espe- daily alkyl), which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, P, CI, Br, F; or a combination of these meanings.

The substituent Ri may especially be a C ₄ -Ci2 cycloalkyl group, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl group or a C ₄ -Ci2 aryl group, optionally substituted with an amino, ester and/or hydroxyl function.

The substituent Ri may also be a group: C ₄ H9, phenyl, 1 ,4-nitrophenylene, 1 ,2-eth- ylene, 1 ,6-hexylene; 1 ,4-butylene, 1 ,6-(2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1 ,4-(4-methylpen- tylene), 1 ,5-(5-methylhexylene), 1 ,6-(6-methylheptylene), 1 ,5-(2,2,5-trime- thylhexylene), 1 ,7-(3,7-dimethyloctylene), -isophorone-, 4,4'-methylene bis(cyclo- hexylene), tolylene, 2-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene, 4,4-bi- phenylenemethylene,

and preferably: -isophorone-, -(CH ₂ )2-, -(CH ₂ )6-, CH ₂ CH(CH3)-CH2-C(CH ₃ )2-CH2- CH2, 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene.

Even more preferably, Ri is a single bond.

- (b) the substituents R2, which may be identical or different within the same formula, represent a single bond, a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom (-Br, -CI, -F), a -OH, -N(R)2 substituent (with R being H or a linear and branched C1-C12 and preferably a Ci-C ₄ alkyl substituent, and better still a methyl or ethyl substituent); or a linear, branched or cyclic, C1-C6000, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, P and F; or a combination of these meanings.

The substituents R2 may especially be H, CN, NH2 or:

- a C1-C30 alkyl group;

- a C ₄ -Ci2 cycloalkyl group;

- a C ₄ -Ci2 aryl group;

- a (C ₄ -Ci2)aryl(Ci-C3o)alkyl group;

- a Ci-C ₄ alkoxy group;

- an arylalkoxy group, in particular an aryl(Ci-C ₄ )alkoxy group;

- a C ₄ -Ci2 heterocycle;

- a thioalkoxy group; - a sulfoxy group;

or mixtures thereof, these groups optionally being substituted with an amino, ester and/or hydroxyl function.

Preferably, R2 represents H, CH3, C13H27, C7H 15 or phenyl.

- (c) the substituents R3, which may be identical or different within the same formula, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, C1-C6000, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, P or F; or a combination of these meanings.

The substituent R3 may especially be a C ₄ -Ci2 cycloalkyl group, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl group or a C ₄ -Ci2 aryl group, optionally substituted with an amino, ester and/or hydroxyl function. Preferably, substituent R3 represents a methyl substituent. In all of these formulae, it is clearly understood that at least one, especially one or two, of the groups Ri and/or R2 is a single bond constituting the point of attachment of the group that can form at least three hydrogen bonds to the rest of the graft. Preferably, said point of attachment is borne by Ri and/or R2, and preferably it is borne by Ri .

The groups that can form at least three hydrogen bonds are chosen especially from: (a) groups that can form at least three complementary and identical hydrogen bonds, i.e. self-complementary, and especially:

- aminopyrimidones, ureidopyrimidones, imidazolidones,

- compounds of the trimellitic acid family, or of the urazoylbenzoic acid family,

- acylaminopyridines, ureidopyridines, carbamoylpyridines,

- acylaminotriazines, ureidotriazines, and especially ureidoaminotriazines, dia- minotriazines,

- acylaminotriazoles,

- phthalhydrazides,

- compounds having formula:

in which Ri is a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, C1-C6000, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, P and F,

(b) groups that can form at least three complementary but different hydrogen bonds and especially:

- adenine, which is complementary to guanine,

- cytidine, which is complementary to thymine,

- triamino-s-triazine, which is complementary to uracil or succinimide or glutarimide or cyanuric acid or thymine or maleimide or (di)aminopyrimidine or barbituric acid,

- acylamino-amino-s-triazine, which is complementary to uracile or succinimide or glutarimide or cyanuric acid or thymine or maleimide or (di)aminopyrimidine or barbituric acid.

In a preferred manner, the groups that can form at least three hydrogen bonds are chosen from groups that can establish at least three hydrogen bonds with themselves (self-complementary), especially at least four hydrogen bonds with themselves. Among these groups, mention may be made in particular of:

- ureidopyrimidones; imidazolidones;

- ureidopyridines, carbamoylpyridines;

- acylamino-s-triazines and especially acyl-diamino-s-triazines;

- ureidotriazines;

- phthalhydrazides;

- compounds having formula:

R1 and

in which the substituents Ri , R2 and R3 have the meanings given above, in particular the meanings given as a preference.

Better still, as preferred examples of groups that can form at least three hydrogen bonds, mention may be made of groups derived from ureidopyrimidones and imid- azolidines, preferably groups derived from ureidopyrimidones and in particular from 2-ureidopyrimidone or 6-methyl-2-ureidopyrimidone.

The rest of the functionalized graft is constituted of a linker L bearing at least one reactive group (W) that can react with the reactive group or groups of the functional- ized poly(alkene).

This reactive group (W) may be for example a carboxyl group or an isocyanate group. Preferably, it is a -N=C=O or -N=C=S group, and even more preferably, a - N=C=O group (isocyanate).

Preferably, linker L is a divalent saturated or unsaturated C2-C20, preferably C6- C20 hydrocarbon-based substituent. Preferably, linker L is a divalent saturated or unsaturated cyclic C6-C20, preferably C6-C12 hydrocarbon-based substituent. A divalent cyclic hydrocarbon-based substituent is understood to mean a substituent containing in its structure at least one cyclic portion. Linker L may be a divalent substituent chosen from phenylene, 1 ,2-ethylene, 1 ,6- hexylene, 1 ,4-butylene, 1 ,6-(2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1 ,4-(4-methylpentylene), 1 ,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1 ,6-(6-methylheptylene), 1 ,5-(2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1 ,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene), -isophorone-, 4,4'-methylene bis(cyclohexylene), tolylene, 2-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene, 4,4-biphenylenemethylene.

L preferably represents a divalent group: phenylene, -isophorone-, 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene, tolylene, 2-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene, 4,4- biphenylenemethylene,

and preferably -isophorone-, 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1 ,3-phenylene.

Preferably, L is the divalent group -isophorone-.

Divalent isophorone group is understood to mean the following group:

^* representing the attachment points for the group in the polymer backbone. In a particularly preferred version of the invention, the functionalized grafts (B) have formula (B1 ):

or have the formula (B2):

o

HN N- C ₂ H ₄ - -NH-C-NH-L NCO

T

o (B2)

Where L has the same meaning as above.

Even more preferabl , the polyalkene supramolecular polymer has formula (C1 ):

(C1 )

P, X, X', L having the meanings indicated previously. or having formula (C2):

HN^ _/ N-C ₆ H ₄ — NH-C-NH- L-NH-C— X-P-X'— C-NH— L -NH-C-NH-C,H^-N. .NH

I I I I I I l l o o o o o o

(C2) P, X, Χ', L having the meanings indicated previously.

Preferably, X= X'= O.

5

Preferably, in formulas (C1 ), (C2), X and X' denote an oxygen atom.

The polyalkene supramolecular polymer or polymers of the invention may also be obtained from a polymer (A1 ) including a polyalkene portion, said polymer being

10 functionalized by at least one reactive group (B1 ), which reacts by condensation with at least one molecule (A2) including at least one reactive group (B2), said molecule being such that after reaction of groups (B1 ) and (B2) an entity forms that can form at least three hydrogen bonds, preferably at least four hydrogen bonds.

Preferably, these entities are structures (i) to (xxiv) as defined previously, with Ri

15 denoting a single bond.

Polymer (A1 ) may especially result from the action on a functionalized polyalkene polymer having formula A as defined before, of compounds (A2) including two reactive groups (B2) and (B'2) that can react with the functionalized groups of the polyalkene.

20 These reactive groups may for example be carboxyl groups or isocyanate groups.

Preferably, it is -N=C=O or -N=C=S groups, and even more preferably an -N=C=O group (isocyanate).

Preferably, B2 groups are identical to B'2 groups.

Preferably, the compounds (A2) have the following structure (C):

25 B'2-L-B'2 (C)

where linker L has the same meanings as those defined previously.

In a particularly preferred version of the invention, the polymers A1 have formula

(C'1 ):

_{Q n} CON L NCO X— P X' CON L NCO _/ ,, ,

in which L, X, X' and P have the same meanings as those described previously. Preferably, molecule (A2) is 6-methylisocytosine having formula:

or 2-aminoethylimidazolidine (UDETA) having formula:

In practice, the polyalkene supramolecular polymer may be prepared according to a preparation process consisting in:

- heating polymer (A1 ) including at least one reactive group, especially two reactive groups, particularly two OH groups, to a temperature that can be inclusively between 60 °C and 140 °C, ensuring in advance that the polymer does not include residual water.

- adding at least one, preferably only one, functionalized graft by at least one reactive group that can react with the reactive group or groups on the functionalized polyalkene polymer;

- stirring the mixture under a controlled atmosphere at a temperature of the order of 90-130°C; for i to 24 hours;

- monitoring reaction progress for example by assaying the reactive groups borne by the polymer (for example by finding the hydroxyl indices if the polymer bears hydroxyl groups) and/or by monitoring the disappearance of the reactive groups borne by the graft or grafts (for example by monitoring by infrared spectroscopy the disappearance of the characteristic isocyanate band between 2500 and 2800 cm ^-1 so as to stop the reaction when the peak completely disappears)

- letting the finished product return to ambient temperature;

- optionally adding a compound G-XH and/or G-X'H to ensure the complete disap- pearance of the reactive groups borne by the graft; G denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C12 linear or branched alkyl substituent; particularly, X, X' being as defined previously, GXH denotes the ethanol if the graft bears isocyanate functions;

- filtering the mixture if necessary.

The reaction may be performed in the presence of a solvent or a mixture of solvents, in particular chosen from methyltetrahydrofuran, tetrahydrofuran, toluene or butyl acetate, or propylene carbonate.

It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst to achieve the condensation between the functionalized polymer and the functionalized graft.

The resulting compound may finally be washed and dried, or even purified, accord- ing to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyalkene supramolecular polymer may be prepared according to a preparation process consisting in:

- heating the polyalkene polymer that is di-functionalized by hydroxyl functions (pref- erably functionalized at the ends of the chain) (polymer A1 ) at a temperature that can be comprised between 60 °C and 140 °C, ensuring previously that it does not include residual water;

- adding a functionalized isocyanate, preferably diisocyanate, graft.

- stirring the mixture under a controlled atmosphere at a temperature of the order of 90-130°C; for 1 to 24 hours;

- monitoring reaction progress for example by assaying the reactive groups borne by the polymer (for example by finding the hydroxyl indices if the polymer bears hydroxyl groups) and/or by monitoring the disappearance of the reactive groups borne by the graft or grafts (for example by monitoring by infrared spectroscopy the disappearance of the characteristic isocyanate band between 2500 and 2800 cm ^-1 so as to stop the reaction when the peak completely disappears)

- letting the finished product return to ambient temperature;

- optionally a compound G-XH and/or G-X'H to ensure the complete disappearance of the reactive groups borne by the graft; G denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C12 linear or branched alkyl substituent; X and X' being as defined previously (preferably denote O); in particular, GXH and GX'H denote the ethanol if the graft bears isocyanate functions;

- filtering the mixture if necessary.

The reaction may be performed in the presence of a solvent or a mixture of solvents, in particular chosen from methyltetrahydrofuran, tetrahydrofuran, toluene or butyl acetate, or propylene carbonate.

It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst to achieve the condensation between the functionalized polymer and the functionalized graft. As an example, mention may be made of dibutyltin dilaurate if we wish to form a urethane bond between an hydroxyl-functionalized polymer and a functionalized isoscyanate graft.

The compound may finally be washed and dried, or even purified, according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. According to another embodiment, the supramolecular polymer may be prepared according to a process comprising the following steps:

(i) Functionalization of the dihydroxylated polyalkene polymer P, previously dried, by a diisocyanate according to the reaction scheme:

OH-P-OH (x eq) + NCO-L-NCO (y eq) (D) → OCN-L-NH-(0)CO-P-OC(0)-NH-L-NCO preferably in quantities such that the polyalkene polymer/diisocyanate D molar ratio (ratio x/y) ranges from 0.30 to 0.70, better still from 0.35 to 0.65, preferably from 0.4 to 0.6, more preferably from 0.45 to 0.55. This first step may be made in the presence of solvent, at a temperature of between 20 °C and 100 °C.

This first step may be followed by a period of stirring, in a controlled atmosphere for a period ranging from 1 hour to 24 hours. The mixture may optionally be heated. The degree of progress of this first step may be monitored by assaying the hydroxyl functions;

then

(ii) reaction of the pre-polymer obtained in step (i) with 6-methylisocytosine or 2- aminoethylimidazolidine:

OCN-L-NH-(O)CO-P-OC(O)-NH-L-NCO +

z eq t eq

preferably in a quantity such that the diisocyanate D/6-methylisocytosine or 2-ami- noethylimidazolidine molar ratio (ratio y/t) ranges from 0.80 to 1 .20.

This second step may optionally be performed in the presence of a cosolvent such as toluene, butyl acetate or propylene carbonate. The reaction mixture may be heated to between 80°C and 140°C for a time ranging between 1 and 24 hours. The presence of a catalyst, such as for example dibutyltin dilaurate, may promote the production of the desired final product.

The reaction may be monitored by infrared spectroscopy, by monitoring the disap- pearance of the peak characteristic of isocyanate between 2200 and 2300 cm ^-1 . At the end of the reaction, ethanol may be added to the reaction medium in order to neutralize any residual isocyanate functions. The reaction mixture may be optionally filtered. If necessary, the polymer may be directly stripped in a cosmetic solvent. As polyalkene supramolecular polymer, those described in application FR-A- 2938760 can be used, particularly the polymer of example 3.

Surfactant system of the aqueous dispersion: The aqueous dispersion of polyalkene supramolecular polymer according to the invention also comprises a surfactant system that can maintain said polymer in dispersion in water stably for at least one week at ambient temperature (23 °C).

The surfactant system is chosen from:

1 ) at least one anionic surfactant optionally combined with at least one non-ionic surfactant, with the exclusion of the surfactant system containing only dodecyl sulfate and/or an alkali metal salt of dodecyl sulfate; 2) at least one cationic surfactant, optionally combined with at least one non-ionic surfactant;

3) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB greater than 10 or a mixture of ionic surfactants, without being combined with an ionic surfactant, said mixture hav- ing an HLB greater than 10.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the surfactant system is one or more anionic surfactant(s). This first embodiment excludes dodecyl sulfate and/or an alkali metal salt of dodecyl sulfate used as the only surfactant.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is termed "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge. The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

It is understood in the present description that:

- the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^" ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;

- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ^" ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and

- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^" ).

They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon at- oms, especially from 10 to 22, better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; said alkyl groups being linear or branched, where the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycar- boxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglyco- side-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

The salts of these compounds may be alkali metal (particularly sodium) or alkaline earth, ammonium, or aminoalcohol salts.

Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from acylsarcosinates or acylglycinates whose acyl group includes 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly a linear acyl group including from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly the sodium salt of N-lauroyl sarcosine and sodium N-cocoyl glycinate. Preferably, the acylsarcosinates cited previously are used and more particularly the sodium salt of N-lauroyl sarcosine.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesul- fonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuc- cinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinat.es, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; where the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;

where these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethyle- nated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 25 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from 2 to 10.

The salts of these compounds may be alkali metal (particularly sodium) or alkaline earth, ammonium, or aminoalcohol salts.

The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate func- tion (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ^" ).

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in partic- ular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; where the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 25 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from 2 to 10.

The salts of these compounds may be alkali metal (particularly sodium) or alkaline earth, ammonium, or aminoalcohol salts.

Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen from:

- alkyl sulfates especially C6-C24, even C8-C20, such as dodecyl sulfate (not used as the only surfactant but always combined with a non-ionic surfactant) or decyl sulfate

- alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C24, even C12-C22, preferably comprising from 2 to 25 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units, such as lauryl ether sulfate comprising from 2 to 25 ethylene oxide units

particularly in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or aminoalcohol salts, more particularly in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium salts. Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from carboxylate surfactants and sulfate surfactants described previously.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanola- mine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, preferably sodium, are preferably used. The anionic surfactant is preferably chosen from sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium laureth sulfate and sodium decyl sulfate.

The surfactant system may also comprise a non-ionic surfactant as described hereinafter in combination with the anionic surfactant as described previously. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant combined may be chosen from:

C8-C30 poloxyethylenated fatty alcohols, especially C12-C18 fatty alcohols, particularly polyoxyethylenated lauryl, cetyl, myristyl, stearic alcohols having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters (preferably C12-C18) of sorbitan espe- daily polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acids, of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;

polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, especially polyglycerolated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acid, especially containing from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol.

The non-ionic surfactant combined is preferably chosen from:

4 EO or 23 EO (Laureth-23 or Laureth-4) polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohols polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate

polyglyceryl-4 isostearate

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant combined may be chosen from:

alkyl sulfates especially C6-C24, even C8-C20, such as dodecyl sulfate (not used as the only surfactant but always combined with a non-ionic surfactant) or decyl sulfate

acylsarcosinates whose acyl group includes 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly a linear acyl group including from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly the sodium salt of N-lauroyl sarcosine;

alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C24, even C12-C22, preferably comprising from 2 to 25 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units, such as lauryl ether sulfate comprising from 2 to 25 ethylene oxide units.

As combinations of anionic surfactant and non-ionic surfactant, mention may be made of: polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate/sodium decyl sulfate (especially according to 90/10 or 50/50 weight ratio)

polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate/sodiunn N-lauroyl sarcosinate (especially 90/10)

Laurylethersulfate (2 EO)/polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (especially 10/90 or 50/50)

Laurylethersulfate (2 EO)/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (especially 10/90)

Laurylethersulfate (2 EO)/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (especially 50/50)

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the surfactant system is one or more cationic surfactant(s).

The cationic surfactant is advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkyle- nated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made especially of: - quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la):

in which:

groups Re to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for the linear or branched aliphatic groups to include heteroatoms such as, especially, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, these heteroatoms not being adjacent, and halogens; and

- X ^" is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides such as bromides, chlorides, iodides, fluorides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C ₄ )alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylaryl sulfonates;

C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6)polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)al- kyl-(C2C6)alkylamido, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;

Mention may be made especially of tetraalkylammonium halides, especially chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 20 carbon atoms such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldime- thylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (or cetrimonium chloride) and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.

Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stear- amidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, and especially chlorides, especially the product sold under the name Ceraphyl ^® 70 by the company Van Dyk. Preferably, cationic surfactants having formula (la) are chosen from alkyltrime- thylammonium halides whose alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and more particularly alkyltrime- thylammonium chlorides such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltri- methylammonium chloride.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline having formula (I la):

wherein

Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Ri4 represents a Ci-C ₄ alkyl group,

Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C ₄ alkyl group,

X ^" is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates;

Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from

12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ri ₄ denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik. di- or triquaternary ammonium salts having formula la):

2+

'17 ' 9

N— (CH ₂ ) ₃ — N— 21 2X ^'

la)

R, R 20 in which:

- R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

- Ri7 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N ⁺ (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a); Riea, Ri 7a and Ri8a, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- R18, Ri9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

- X ^" is an anion, chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl- and (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, having formula (IVa) below:

in which:

- R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,

- r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,

- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

- x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,

- X ^" is an anion,

it being understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15,

with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1 .

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci- C ₄ )alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C ₄ )alkylsulfonate or a (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonate, a me- thanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X ^" is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly of the ammonium salts having formula (VII) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon- based groups; and a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Among the compounds having formula (IVa), mention may be made of salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxy- ethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammo- nium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldime- thylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures especially of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart ^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by the company CECA or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by the company Evonik.

The mixture of cationic surfactants may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131 .

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

More preferably, cationic surfactants used according to the invention are chosen from those having formula (la), among alkyltrimethylammonium salts whose alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium salts, cetrimonium slats and particularly cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or their mixtures. The surfactant system may also comprise a non-ionic surfactant as described hereinafter in combination with the cationic surfactant as described previously. The non- ionic surfactant is preferably chosen from:

polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol 4 EO (Laureth-4), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol 23 EO (Laureth-23),

polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate

polyglyceryl-4 isostearate.

As combinations of cationic surfactant and non-ionic surfactant, mention may be made of:

cetrimonium chloride/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (especially 10/90)

behenyltrimethylammonium chloride/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (especially 10/90)

cetrimonium chloride/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (especially 10/90)

behenyl trimethylammonium chloride/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (especially 10/90)

According to a third embodiment of the invention, the surfactant system is one or more non-ionic surfactants.

The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from alcohols and alpha-diols, these com- pounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

Mention may also be made of polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1 .5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having preferably from 2 to 40 units of ethylene oxide, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, such as oxyethylenated plant oils.

Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G) _v

in which:

- Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl substituent comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl substituent whose linear or branched alkyl substituent comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula de- scribed above in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl substituent comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an al- kyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Ce/Ci6 alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred. Among commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 1 10 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or else the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.

Preferably, use is made of Cs/Ci6-alkyl (poly)glycosides 1 ,4, in particular as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference

Plantacare® 818 UP.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters (preferably C12-C18) of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C8-C30 (preferably C12-18) fatty alcohols, polyglycerolated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated compounds having preferably from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated compounds having preferably from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol;

and mixtures thereof.

The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols may be chosen from C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:

cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 2 EO (Ceteth-2) (HLB 5.3)

cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 6 EO (Ceteth-6) (HLB 1 1 .1 )

cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 EO (Ceteth-10) (HLB 12.9)

cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 EO (Ceteth-20) (HLB 15.7)

cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 24 EO (Ceteth-24) (HLB 16.3)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 2 EO (Laureth-2) (HLB 6.1 )

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 3 EO (Laureth-3) (HLB 8)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 4 EO (Laureth-4) (HLB 9.4)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 7 EO (Laureth-7) (HLB 12.3)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 9 EO (Laureth-9) (HLB 13.6)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 EO (Laureth-10) (HLB 13.9)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 12 EO (Laureth-12) (HLB 14.6)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 21 EO (Laureth-21 ) (HLB 15.5)

lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 23 EO (Laureth-23) (HLB 16.3)

stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 2 EO (Steareth-2) (HLB 4.9)

stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 EO (Steareth-10) (HLB 12.4)

stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 EO (Steareth-20) (HLB 15.2)

stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 21 EO (Steareth-21 ) (HLB 15.5)

The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters (preferably C12-C18) of sorbitan may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acids, of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:

polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21 ) (HLB 13.3) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-20) (HLB 16.7) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-40) (HLB 15.6) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-60) (HLB 14.9) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-61 ) (HLB 9.6) polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-80) (HLB 15)

The polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters may be chosen from polyglycerolated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isos- tearic acid, having from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol, such as: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate;

polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate;

polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate;

polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyc- eryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate.

The non-ionic surfactant is preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (4 EO), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (23 EO), oxyethylene sorbitan monopalmi- tate (20 EO), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate.

When the surfactant system comprises a non-ionic surfactant and an anionic or cat- ionic surfactant, said non-ionic surfactant may have any HLB at all. When the surfactant system comprises only a non-ionic surfactant, the surfactant then has an HLB greater than 10, and preferably greater than or equal to 15.

When the surfactant system comprises only a mixture of non-ionic surfactants, said mixture then has an HLB greater than 10, and preferably greater than or equal to 15.

The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25°C in the Griffin sense.

The term "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)" is intended to mean the equilibrium between the size and the strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and the strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. This HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

Surfactants having an HLB greater than 10 can be used that are cited in

the reference work McCutcheons Emulsifiers & Detergents, International Edition, 1998 and following.

Reference may also be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for non-ionic surfactants.

The HLB of a surfactant mixture containing a% of A and b% of B (mass percentage) is calculated as follows:

HLB (A + B) = a% (HLB A) + b % (HLB B) As an example of non-ionic surfactants with HLB greater than 10, the surfactants described previously can be used, and preferably chosen from oxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (HLB = 15.3), Laureth-23 (HLB = 16.3) and Laureth-9 (13.6), As examples of non-ionic surfactants with HLB less than or equal to 10, mention may be made for example of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (HLB = 5), Laureth-4 (HLB = 9.4), Laureth-2 (HLB = 6.1 ) and Laureth-3 (HLB = 8) .

As non-ionic surfactant mixture, mention may be made of the mixture of polyoxyeth- ylenated lauryl alcohol 4 EO and polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol 23 EO.

The polyalkene supramolecular polymer may be present in the aqueous dispersion in a content ranging from 2% to 50% by weight and preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

The surfactant system may be present in the aqueous composition in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, especially ranging from 0.02% to 4% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.03% to 3% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.04% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Advantageously, the polyalkene supramolecular polymer and the surfactant system are present in the aqueous dispersion according to a polymer/surfactant weight ratio ranging from 9 to 49, preferably ranging from 9 to 40, preferably ranging from 9 to 35.

A subject of the invention is also a process for preparing the aqueous dispersion described previously, comprising the following steps:

(i) a synthesis step of the polyalkene supramolecular polymer in an organic solvent S like for example the 2-methyl tetrahydrofuran, ethyl acetate;

(ii) then an addition step:

either of an aqueous solution containing the surfactant system,

or of an organic solution containing the organic solvent S and the surfactant system then water addition;

(iii) then a step of dispersion of the mixture obtained under stirring, especially at a rate ranging from 3000 to 30000 rpm, especially for a duration ranging from 1 to 60 minutes preferably ranging from 5 to 15 minutes;

(iv) then a step of evaporation of the organic solvent S.

The step of dispersion may be conducted with stirring using a disperser, for example with a rotor/stator such as an Ultra Turax, for example at the rate of 24,000 rpm. The invention also relates to a composition comprising the aqueous dispersion of the polyalkene supramolecular polymer described previously.

The composition advantageously comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with the keratin fibres and/or materials of a living creature, in particular of humans, such as, for example, in a non-limiting manner, the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes or the eyebrows.

The supramolecular polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from colorants, fillers, oils, waxes, pastes, (additional) surfactants, UV filters, cosmetic actives; fragrances, propellants, film-forming polymers (additional, especially different from the polymer of the aqueous dispersion), thickeners, preservatives. The composition according to the invention may be a composition for making up especially the skin and/or the lips and/or the lashes. The composition may be a product for the complexion such as a foundation, a blusher or an eyeshadow; a lip product such as a lipstick or a lipcare product or a gloss; a concealer product; a blush; an eyeliner; a lipstick pencil or eye pencil; a body makeup product; a mas- cara.

The composition may also be a skin or lip care product; a hygiene product, a sun protection product. The composition may also be a haircare composition, especially a shampoo, a conditioner, a styling product, a hair treatment product, a shaping product.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples. Polymer 1 : described in example 2 of FR-A-2938760

106.1 g of dihydroxylated hydrogenated 1 ,2-polybutadiene polymer (GI2000 from Nisso, Mn=2100) is heated in the presence of 22 mg of catalyst (dibutyltin dilaurate) at 80°C, under reduced pressure, for two hours. The temperature of the mixture is reduced to 20°C, under argon, followed by addition of 10 ml of isododecane and 19.3 g of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). The mixture is stirred for 16 hours at 20°C under a controlled atmosphere, and is then heated to 120°C, followed by addition of 25 ml of propylene carbonate. 12 g of 6-methylisocytosine is added, resulting in a homogeneous white suspension. This suspension is heated to 140°C and stirred at this temperature for 6 hours. The reaction is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, up to the total disappearance of the characteristic peak for isocyanates (2250 cm ^-1 ). The mixture is then reduced to 30°C, and 400 ml of heptane, 200 ml of THF and 50 ml of ethanol are added, followed by filtration through Celite. The mixture is then stripped with isododecane.

A solution of the polymer in isododecane, with a solids content of 20%, is finally obtained; the polymer is characterized by GPC (Mn = 7000 and polydispersity index = 2.05).

Polymer P2: synthesis

To a reactor under an argon atmosphere, 200 g of dihydroxylated hydrogenated 1 ,2- polybutadiene polymer (Gl 2000 from Nisso; Mn=2100), 50 g of isododecane and 36.1 g of isophorone diisocyanate were added. The solution was heated to 40 °C, then 63 μΙ of catalyst (dibutyltin dilaurate) was added, holding the temperature between 38°C and 42°C for three hours. Next 19.25 g of 2-aminoethylimidazolidin-2- one (UDETA) was added and the medium was heated to 120°C for three hours. Then the temperature in the reactor was lowered to 70°C and 100 ml of ethanol was added. The mixture was left to react for 1 hour. 350 g of isododecane was added and the ethanol was removed by distillation. A solution containing 38.5% by weight of polymer in isododecane was thus obtained. The polymer obtained has a number-average molecular weight (Mn) of 4600 and a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 10400. (analysis by GPC)

Examples of aqueous polymer dispersions:

Example of Dispersion 1 :

To a jacketed reactor set at the temperature of 15 °C, 50 g of solution of polymer 1 at 10 % by weight in 2-methyl tetrahydrofuran (2-Me THF) was added. Then with stirring using an Ultra-Turax at 24000 rpm for 10 min, an aqueous solution made by mixing 0.4 g of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2 EO) and 50 g of water was added. The white solution obtained was then evaporated under vacuum to remove the 2 Me-THF.

Accordingly, we obtained an aqueous dispersion of Polymer 1 which is homogene- ous, white and stable after one week's storage and one month's storage at ambient temperature (23 °C). This dispersion has solids content of 18%.

Other aqueous dispersions of Polymer 1 and Polymer 2 with other surfactants described in Table 1 hereinafter according to the procedure described previously were prepared (surfactant content for sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate of 2.8 g). To use the surfactant, it can be put in solution in 50 g of 2-Me THF in the place of water as specified in the table, then 50 g of water is added.

For each aqueous dispersion prepared, the stability was evaluated after

one month's storage at ambient temperature (23 °C)

Comparative Examples 1 to 11 : Aqueous dispersions with anionic surfactant system

Example Polymer Surfactant system Polymer/surfactant raSolids

(put in solution in) tio content

of the dispersion

1 Polymer 1 Sodium N-lauroyl sar- 97/3 20.4%

cosinate (water)

2 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether 91/9 18%

sulfate 2 EO (water)

3 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether 91/9 25%

sulfate 2 EO (water)/

polyoxyethylenated

sorbitan monopalmi- tate (20 EO) (2-

MeTHF)

50/50

4 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether 91/9 20%

sulfate 2 EO (water)/

polyoxyethylenated

sorbitan monopalmi- tate (20 EO) (2-Me-

THF)

10/90

5 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether 91/9 15%

sulfate 2 EO (water)/

polyglyceryl-4 isos- tearate (2 Me-THF)

50/50

6 Polymer 1 Mixture of polyoxy91/9 1 1 %

ethylenated sorbitan

monopalmitate (20

EO)/sodium dodecyl

sulfate (90/10)

7 Polymer 1 Mixture of polyoxy91/9 13%

ethylenated sorbitan

monopalmitate (20

EO)/sodium dodecyl

sulfate (50/50)

8 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether 91/9 10.8%

sulfate 2 EO (water)

polyglyceryl-4 isos- tearate (2 Me-THF)

10/90

9 Polymer 1 Sodium decyl sulfate 91/9 15%

(water)

10 Polymer 2 Sodium N-lauroyl sar- 97/3 24%

cosinate (water)

Comparative Examples 12 to 17: Aqueous dispersions with cationic surfactant (invention) or amphoteric surfactant (outside the invention) ExamPolymer Surfactant system (put in solution in) Poly- ple mer/s Solids

urfac- content tant of the ratio dispersion

12 Polymer 1 Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 91/9 21 %

(water)

13 Polymer 1 Cetrimonium chloride (water) 97/3 26.5%

14 Polymer 1 behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 91/9 14%

(water)/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan

monopalmitate (20 EO) (water) (10/90)

15 Polymer 1 cetrimonium chloride (water)/polyoxyeth- 91/9 16%

ylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO)

(water) (10/90)

16 Polymer 1 cetrimonium chloride (water)/ polyglyc- 91/9 26%

eryl-4 isostearate (water) (10/90)

t on Comparison examples 18 to 22: aqueous dispersions with non-ionic surfactant

Evaluation of the low-tack appearance of the polymer films

The low-tack appearance of the polymer films obtained from aqueous dispersions of Examples 1 (Polymer 1 ) and 10 (Polymer 2) was evaluated by adjusting by dilu- tion with water to a polymer content of 20% by weight.

For comparison, a solution of Polymer 1 and a solution of Polymer 2 at 10% by weight in isododecane were also prepared. The aqueous dispersions were spread on glass plates then left to dry for 7 days at ambient temperature (23 °C) whereas the organic solutions were spread on contrast card then left to dry for 24 hours at ambient temperature (23 °C). The films prepared were 30 μιτι thick after drying. Next, for each film, tack (expressed in N) was measured using the automated platform (Freeslate/Symyx Core module) to determine the detachment force exerted by the film during the removal phase of a flexible Viton ball 10 mm in diameter in contact with the film in the following conditions: rate of approach and removal of the ball: 5 mm/s, ball-film contact time: 5 s, contact force exerted by the ball: 1 N.

The following results were obtained:

The results show that the aqueous dispersions of Examples 1 and 10 according to the invention form a film having lower tack than that of the film obtained from solutions of the same polymer in isododecane.

So the aqueous dispersion of polymer produces a less tacky polymer film.

Example 23:

The following composition is prepared (% by weight):

Aqueous dispersion of Example 1 10%

Xanthan gum 2%

Fragrance qs

Water qs 100% The composition applied to the skin forms a non-tacky film.

Example 24:

The following skin makeup composition is prepared (% by weight):

Aqueous dispersion of Example 10 10%

Xanthan gum 2%

Fragrance qs

Water-soluble dye qs

Water qs 100% The composition applied to the skin forms a coloured non-tacky film.

Example 25: The following hair composition is prepared (% by weight):

Aqueous dispersion of Example 1 10%

Xanthan gum 2%

Fragrance qs

Water qs 100% The composition applied to the hair forms a coating, non-tacky film.

Example 26:

The following mascara composition is prepared (% by weight):

Aqueous dispersion of Example 1 10%

Xanthan gum 3%

Black iron oxides qs

Water qs 100% The composition applied to the lashes forms a coating, non-tacky film.