Turner, Anthony (A D Turner Limited 63 Kenilworth Drive Oadby Industrial Estate Leicester LE2 5LT, GB)
Morris, Paul (Pro-Fit International Limited Unit 40 Albion Mills Bradford BD10 9TF, GB)
Turner, Anthony (A D Turner Limited 63 Kenilworth Drive Oadby Industrial Estate Leicester LE2 5LT, GB)
| 1. | A method of attaching a waistband to a garment which comprises forming a waistband from a fabric having an attached interlining, folding the waistband above the edge of a garment to which it is to be attached, deforming at least one portion of the waistband so as to shorten its apparent width, stitching the waistband to the garment, and allowing or causing the waistband to return to its original width thereby hiding the stitching. |
| 2. | A method as claimed in claim 1 wherein the interlining is a resilient fusible interlining. |
| 3. | A method as claimed in either of claims 1 or 2 wherein the width of the interlining is effectively the same width as the final waistband width when attached to the garment. |
| 4. | An apparatus for performing the method of the invention which comprises a folder additionally provided with a blade (14) and presser bar (18) whereby to deform the fabric of the waistband as it passes through the sewing zone (16) and reduce its width. |
| 5. | An apparatus as claimed in claim in which the folder is provided with an adjustable"L" blade (14) which deforms the waistband in the area of the interlining (12). |
| 6. | An apparatus as claimed in either of claims 4 or 5 additionally comprising a fabric spreader blade (20) to push the folded edge (22) of the fabric into the stitching zone (16) and to hold it taut for stitching. |
| 7. | An apparatus as claimed in claim 6 wherein the fabric spreader blade (22) has a cutout portion (26) allowing the needle (16) to pass therethrough when stitching the edge (22) to a garment fabric (24). |
| 8. | A method as claimed in any of claims 1 to 3 wherein the stitch line (28) is between 2 and 4mm in from the edge (30) of the finished waistband. |
| 9. | A method as claimed in claim 8 wherein the amount of inset of the stitch line (22) from the edge (30) of the waistband is adjustable by adjusting the height of the"L"blade and the amount of depression caused by the pressure bar (18). |
| 10. | Waistbands produced by a method according to claims 1 to 4,8 and 9 or on an apparatus according to claims 5 to 7. |
| 11. | A garment incorporating a waistband according to claim 10. |
Currently waistbands are attached to garments by one of two main methods. The first involves passing the waistband through a folder in which the waistband is effectively wrapped around the top of the garment and passed through a sewing machine. The stitch line is therefore visible on the surface of both the inside and outside of the waistband. The waistband is, however, applied in one operation.
The other main method of attaching the waistband is where one edge of the waistband is initially sewn to the top of the garment. The partially attached waistband is then folded along its top edge and the inside of the waistband (which may be a waistband lining) is subsequently attached to the garment using a second row of stitches. A skilled operative can roll back the edge of the waistband, effectively stitching just below the edge of the waistband on the outside of the garment. When the edge of the waistband naturally rolls back to its original position, the stitching may be hidden. This is referred to as"sink" stitching and the stitching is invisible when looking at the garment from the outside, but it is a two-stage operation and requires considerable operator skill. Moreover, there are other problems involved in this operation since splitting the waistband application into two separate operations can cause the fabric to be stretched or compressed in the first operation so that it does not line up exactly during the second operation. This can lead to"pucker" or other unwanted distortions in the garment when finished.
The present invention seeks to provide a method of attaching a waistband in a single operation wherein the stitching is hidden and yet operator skill is kept to a minimum.
According to the present invention there is provided a method of attaching a waistband to a garment which comprises forming a waistband from a fabric having an attached interlining, folding the waistband above the edge of a garment to which it is to be attached, deforming at least one portion of the waistband so as to shorten its apparent width, stitching the waistband to the garment, and allowing or causing the waistband to return to its original width thereby hiding the stitching.
Preferably the interlining is a resilient fusible interlining, but need not be. Preferably also, the width of the interlining is effectively the same width as the final waistband width when attached to the garment. However, especially for lighter fabrics, the interlining may cover the whole surface of the waistband fabric.
The invention further comprises an apparatus for performing the method of the invention which comprises a folder additionally provided with a blade and presser bar whereby to deform the fabric of the waistband as it passes through the sewing zone and reduce its width.
The invention will be described further, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: Figure 1 is a partial view of an indefinite length of waistband fabric having an interlining fused to it; Figure 2 is a diagrammatic sectional view of the waistband fabric folded in an apparatus in accordance with the invention; Figure 3 is a similar view to Figure 2 at the sewing zone; Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view, in diagrammatic form, of the waistband sewn to a garment; Figure 5 is a similar view to Figure 4 showing a different kind of stitching; and Figure 6 is a plan view of the fabric spreader plate of Figure 3.
Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 illustrates the components of a waistband 1 before folding. It comprises a waistband fabric 10, to which is fused an interlining 12 close to one edge thereof. In the present case the interlining is preferably a resilient interlining and most preferably comprises a Proflex interlining (Genesis Textiles Components Limited).
The waistband 1 is passed through a folder (not shown) immediately prior to being passed to the stitching zone of a sewing machine. The folder is provided with an adjustable"L" blade 14 which deforms the waistband 1 in the area of the interlining 12. As the fabric enters the stitching zone, illustrated in Figure 3 by needle 16, a presser bar 18, also adjustable, bears upon the waistband 1 adjacent the"L"blade 14. A fabric spreader blade 20 pushes the folded edge 22 of the fabric into the stitching zone and holds it taut for stitching. The needle 16 then stitches the edge 22 to a garment fabric 24. As can be seen from Figure 6, the fabric spreader blade 22 has a cut-out portion 26 allowing the needle 16 to pass therethrough when stitching the edge 22 to the garment fabric 24.
As the waistband passes through the stitching zone and off the apparatus of the invention, the interlining 12 relaxes to its natural configuration which, as can be seen from the drawings, is wider than the deformed position shown in either Figures 2 or 3, and this causes the stitched edge 22 to be hidden under the edge of the waistband. As illustrated in Figure 4, the stitch line 28 is between 2 and 4mm in from the edge 30 of the finished waistband, although other distances can be employed.
Thus the apparatus of the invention allows a waistband to be attached to a garment in one pass using relatively unskilled operatives and yet providing the desirable hidden stitch line.
Turning now to Figure 5, a looser stitch 28a is employed here enabling the waistband fabric to assume its"natural"position after stitching. As illustrated, the fabric 10 lies relatively flat rather than the"Z"fold shown in Figure 4. This may be desirable in certain cases, particularly where heavier fabrics are employed.
The adjustable"L"blade 14 need not be vertical as illustrated but may lie at an angle to the vertical, provided that it is capable of producing the necessary deformation of the waistband.
Further, although the invention has been described with reference to an elastic interlining, which has sufficient resilience to return to its"natural"position immediately after sewing, a non-resilient interlining may be employed which may be caused to revert to its natural position, e. g. by ironing subsequent to the sewing operation.
The amount of inset of the stitch line 22 from the edge 30 of the waistband is adjustable by adjusting the height of the"L"blade and the amount of depression caused by the pressure bar 18. The seam can be therefore adjusted in relation to the edge 30 as desired or necessary for the particular garments being manufactured.
The position of the spreader plate 20 is also adjustable and it will be appreciated that this must be adjusted accurately since the needle 16 will otherwise foul it when sewing the waistband to the garment.
The method and apparatus of the invention provide a simple and economical way of producing a hidden attachment of a waistband to a garment in one operation using unskilled operatives.
The invention further includes the waistband produced by the method and garments incorporating it.