INTERLININGS, AND PROCESS FOR THEIR MANUFACTURING

The present invention concerns a canvas elastic yarn and relevant fabric, for interlinings, and process for their manufacturing.

More precisely, the present invention concerns an elastic yarn for fabrics of the canvas type and the fabric as obtained from the weaving of such a yarn. The present invention further concerns the processes for the manufacturing of the yarn and fabric, that can be made further elastic by means of a subsequent treatment.

The interlining is a cloth layer, inserted inside an article of clothing, between the external fabric and the lining and therefore it cannot be seen. It has two objects, that of light stiffening the article, so a sit maintains its form, and that of guarantee its thermal isolation.

The most inexpensive manufacturing consists in utilizing an interlining with an adhesive side, whilst the best manufacturing provides the sewing of the interlining. A sewed interlining (by hand of machine, in this case there is a minimal difference) slides independently from the remainder of a racket, generates a better adaptation to the body, and allows a jacket lifetime that is clearly larger. Vice versa, the most important problem with a glued interlining, besides the larger stiffness, is the fact that it tends to detach with time creating deforming bubbles.

The fashion tendencies and the development of always more elaborated fabrics, both by construction and finishing, have lead to the development of types of elastic interlining.

To reach the elasticity, texturised polyester yarns are utilized, both in weft (monoelastic interlining) or in weft and warp (bielastic interlining).

Given the nature of these interlinings, mostly synthetic, their application is made, as above mentioned, by lamination (covering the surface with resin dots that melt when the external fabric is applied, functioning as binder).

There are today no thernfio-adhesive fabrics, defined as sewable or generically "canvas", that have elastic properties. A canvas fabric is by its nature mainly constituted by natural and/or artificial fibers, which are therefore not elastic.

The use of texturised polyester would remove the canvas nature from the fabric. Technically its utilization would not be even possible due to the fact that the necessary weights and structures for a canvas would not be reached.

There is therefore the necessity o a method, and the relevant material to be used in order that the canvas becomes elastic.

It is object of the present invention to provide an elastic yarn of the canvas type for interlining that solves the problems and overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art.

It is further object of the present invention to provide an elastic fabric of the canvas type for interlining that solves the problems and overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art.

It is further object of the present invention a process for the manufacturing o fan elastic yarn for producing an elastic fabric of the canvas type.

It is further object of the present invention a process for the manufacturing o fan elastic yarn of the canvas type for interlining.

It is subject-matter of the present invention an elastic yarn of the canvas type for interlinings, characterised in that it comprises or it is constituted by a first elastic yarn, having count comprised between 4 and 50 dtex, coated by means of twisting or jacking by at least a second yarn of natural and/or artificial fibers.

Preferably according to the invention, the first elastic yarn is coated by means of twisting or jacking of an only second yarn of natural and/or artificial fibers.

Preferably according to the invention, the first elastic yarn is covered by means of twisting or jacking of two second yarns of natural and/or artificial fibers.

It is further subject-matter of the present invention a process for the manufacturing of an elastic yarn of the canvas type for interlinings, characterised in that the following steps are performed: - twisting and drawing a first elastic yarn having initially a count comprised between _; 20 and 100 dtex, in order to modify its count so that it is comprised between 4 and 50 dtex;

- coating said first yarn, by means of twisting or jacking, with at least a second yarn of natural and/or synthetic fibers.

Preferably according to the invention, the coating step is performer by using a Hamel Twisting or similar machine.

It is further specific subject-matter of the present invention an elastic fabric of the canvas type, for interlinings, characterised in that it is obtained by weaving the elastic yarn subject matter of the invention.

Preferably according to the invention, it is obtained by weaving the elastic yarn only in weft.

Preferably according to the invention, it is obtained by weaving the elastic yarn only in warp.

Preferably according to the invention, it is obtained by weaving the elastic yarn in weft and warp.

It is further specific subject-matter according to the invention a process for the manufacturing of an elastic fabric of the canvas type for interlinings, characterised in that it comprises the performing of the following steps:

- weaving the yarn according to the invention so as to obtain an elastic fabric of the canvas type;

- cutting the canvas fabric as obtained from the preceding step during a step of converting, in such a way that the weft yarn is at an angle between 2° and 45° with respect to the vertical direction of the jacket chest to which the fabric is destined as interlining.

The invention will be now described by way of illustration but not by way of limitation, making reference to the figure of the enclosed drawing, wherein it shows in (a) a standard fabric and in (b) a preferred embodiment of the present invention.

The process applied to the production of fabrics according to the invention provides the utilization of elastomers or in general elastic synthetic fibers, which, used in combination with typically natural fibers, can develop elasticity on the finished fabric.

The solution according to the invention to make the yarn elastic, which has to be used in the realization of the fabric according to the invention, provides a covering of a yarn of elastomeric type (call hereafter yarn "A"), of count comprised between 20 and 100 dtex, by a natural and/or artificial yarn (hereafter yarn "B") with various composition and count (depending on the necessity).

The yarn A is subjected to a torsion and stretching, that reduces its count (by 2 to 5 times - therefore from 4 to 50 dtex).

By a Hamel Twisting or similar machine, the yarn A is covered with yarn B, by torsion or double twisting.

In such a way, the elasticity of the elastomers is activated, and therefore the yarn resulting from the combination of the two ones (hereafter yarn "C") will provide elasticity to the fabric produced by it. The elasticity can vary from 2 to 20%, depending on how the fabric is manufactured, for example on how the weave is realized (how the yarns of weft and warp are woven) and the compactness (number of picks) of the fabric (if it is too compact, the elasticity cannot develop itself).

Other manufacturing methods (doubling, coupling, parallel use of yarns, etc.) have been tested in order to obtain the material according to the invention but did not furnish the desired results of elasticity.

The production of the fabric according to the invention can be schematized in the following way:

- choice of the type of elastic fibers for the manufacturing of the yarn A;

- choice of the type of fibers for the preparation of yarn B;

- production of yarn C;

- weaving using yarn C in weft and/or warp;

- finishing.

Depending on the type of used yarns, the nature of the relevant fibers and the performed finishing, it is possible to obtain variations of article, both for weight, color, "hand" effect (sensation to the touch, for example rigid or soft, full, quick, etc.). It is further to be noted that it is possible to double twist two yarns B and B' around yarn A, still obtaining a yarn C with elastic core.

It has been found that a further choice of the cutting mode in the "converting" phase (preparation of the interlining for the installation in the article), diagonal cut with an inclination from 2 to 45° with respect to the grain, can contribute to stress the elasticity. This is illustrated in figure 1. Indeed, in figure 1(a) the weft and warp of a standard fabric portion 100 is illustrated, whilst in figure 1(b) the weft and warp of a fabric portion 200 according to the invention is illustrated, which have the same perimeter form. The weft yarn comes out to be longer in the case of invention, since the template is applied at 30° with respect to that of the standard fabric, and therefore the fabric is more elastic. This can be better defined stressing the fact that normally the interlining fabric of a shoulder cloth is positioned in such a way that the warp is vertical, i.e. it extends along the vertical direction of the shoulder cloth, whilst in the just described case of the invention, it is inclined.

Obviously this holds only in the case the elastic fabric be only that of the weft (or, in a similar way, only that of the warp), preferred choice according to the present invention to avoid a too large sliding of the interlining.

The advantages of the invention find themselves in the use of seaming fabrics (generally intended of higher quality than the thermo- adhesive ones) even with external elasticized fabrics, knitted or particularly constructed, in the case a certain "movement" of the interlining becomes necessary, without compromises on the dimensional stabilities (understood as shrinking at wetting, washing or steam).

The preferred embodiments have been above described and some modifications of this invention have been suggested, but it should be understood that those skilled in the art can make variations and changes, without so departing from the related scope of protection, as defined by the following claims.