| WO/2022/223366 | TRANSPARENT COSMETIC PREPARATION |
| WO/2021/193854 | OIL-IN-WATER-TYPE EMULSIFIED COSMETIC MATERIAL |
| JPH101419 | COLOR COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING ALCOHOL-MODIFIED WAX |
HAGAN DESMOND BERNARD
UNILEVER NV (NL)
| EP0517371A2 | 1992-12-09 | |||
| EP0357186A2 | 1990-03-07 | |||
| US4078147A | 1978-03-07 | |||
| DE2452119A1 | 1976-05-13 | |||
| US4446165A | 1984-05-01 |
QUESTEL, File Supplier, PARIS, FR, File CAS, AN: 118-087624 * résumé *
QUESTEL, File Supplier, PARIS, FR, File CAS, AN: 098-056051 * résumé *
| 1. | A composition for topical application to skin or hair which comprises at least one compound which is a substituted di or tribasic acid or salt thereof, and which has the structure (1) : COOX R (1) COOY where R represents a mono or dihydroxy moiety chosen from: (iii) ORJ CH2CH or, (iv) OR ■Cil ~~ C~Cfi ■ COOZ and where each R1 individually represents H, or R2 R^ represents CχHyOzNwC ii where x is an integer of from 1 to 20 y is an integer of from 3 to 41 z is 0, or an integer of from 1 to 10 w is 0, or an integer of from 1 to 5, and X, Y, and Z each individually represent H, CxHyOzNw or a metallic, ammonium or alkanolammonium counterion; provided that the compound includes at least one R1 or R2 group which represents II CχHyOzNwC or at least one of X, Y and Z represents CχHyOzNw . |
| 2. | A composition according to claim 1 wherein each X, Y and Z individually represents H or a said counterion and at least one R1 or R2 group represents O CχHyOzNwC II . |
| 3. | A composition according to claim 2, in which compound of structure (1) is in the form of the free acid or a salt chosen from the sodium, calcium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium salts thereof. |
| 4. | A composition according to claim 2 or claim 3, in which compound of the said structure (1) is a substituted tartaric acid or salt thereof, with structure: in which both groups R1 are the same and are chosen from propionoyl, butanoyl, octanoyl and dodecanoyl, and X and Y each individually represent H or a said counterion. |
| 5. | A composition according to claim 2 or claim 3, in which compound of the said structure (1) is a substituted tartaric acid or salt thereof with structure: OH OR1 I I YOOCCHCHCOOX in which R1 is chosen from propionoyl, butanoyl, octanoyl and dodecanoyl, and X and Y each individually represent H or a said counterion. |
| 6. | A composition according to claim 2 or claim 3, in which the compound of the said structure (1) is a substituted tartronic acid or salt thereof having the structure: OR1 I YOOCCH2CHCOOX or a substituted malic acid or salt thereof having the structure: ORJ YOOCCHCOOX wherein R1 is chosen from propionoyl butanoyl hexanoyl octanoyl decanoyl dodecanoyl tetradecanoyl and octadecanoyl and X and Y each individually represent H or a said counterion. |
| 7. | A composition according to claim 2 or claim 3, in which compound of the said structure (1) is a substituted citric acid or salt thereof having the structure: C IOOZ wherein R1 is chosen from propionoyl butanoyl hexanoyl octanoyl decanoyl dodecanoyl tetradecanoyl and octadecanoyl and X, Y and Z each individually represent H or a said counterion. |
| 8. | A composition according to any one of the preceding claims containing from 1 to 30% by weight of compound of the structure (1) , the composition also including water. |
| 9. | A composition according to any one of the preceding claims which is a foaming cleansing composition. |
| 10. | A method for cleaning the skin or the hair which comprises the steps of (i) applying to the skin or hair an effective amount of a cleansing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, (ii) forming a lather on the skin or hair by massaging in the presence of added water, thereby to cleanse the skin or hair; and (iii) subsequently rinsing the lather from the skin or hair with water. |
| 11. | A method for delivering to the epidermis a hydroxy di or tribasic acid having the structure (2) : COOH I R (2) C IOOH wherein R represents a mono or dihydroxy moiety chosen from: or (i) applying topically to the skin a composition comprising, as a surfactant, the corresponding acyl hydroxy di or tribasic acid or salt thereof having the structure (1) , wherein at least R1 represents an acyl group having the structure : CχHyOzNwC (ii) leaving the composition in contact with the skin for at least 10 seconds to permit the acyl hydroxy di or tribasic acid or salt thereof to penetrate through the stratum corneum to reach the lower strata of the epidermis; and (iii) cleaving the acyl hydroxy di or tribasic acid salt in the epidermis by contact with esterases to provide the hydroxy di or tribasic acid. |
| 12. | The use of an effective amount of at least 0.001% by weight based on the total composition of at least one compound of the structure (1) , as defined in claim 1, to deliver to the epidermis, as a moisturiser for the skin, the corresponding hydroxy di or tribasic acid of structure (2) as defined in claim 11, or a salt thereof. |
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to compositions for application to human skin or hair, especially but not exclusively cleansing compositions. In particular, the invention is ' concerned with mild and cleansing compositions suitable for cleansing the skin and hair.
BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION AND PRIOR ART
The most widely used anionic surfactants in skin or hair cleansing compositions are alkyl sulphates, polyoxyethylene alkyl sulphates and alkyl benzene sulphonates. These compounds are known to have a good foaming and deterging power. However, due to their harshness, they are not desirable as components for cleansing compositions topically applied to human skin and hair. Their damaging effect particularly where young, tender or damaged skin is involved, has been the subject of intense study for many years.
There is therefore a continuing need for mild surfactants, and also for products that are not only mild but also possess foaming power.
US-A-3, 728,447 (C J Patterson) discloses hair shampoo compositions containing fatty acid lactylates or glycolates.
We have unexpectedly discovered that acyl derivatives of other hydroxy acids or their salts, have unexpected mild surfactant properties.
Accordingly, the invention provides a composition which comprises at least one compound which is a derivative of a
hydroxy di- or tribasic acid or salt thereof. This compound has the structure (1) :
COOX
R (1)
COOY
where R represents a mono- or dihydroxy moiety chosen from:
COOZ
and where each R 1 individually represents -H, or R 2 each R 2 individually represents
O
C χ H y O z N w C-
where x is an integer of from 1, preferably to 20 y is an integer of from 3 to 41 z is 0, or an integer of from 1 to 10 w is 0, or an integer of from 1 to 5, and X, Y, and Z each individually represent -H, C x H y O z N w - or a metallic, ammonium or
alkanolammonium counterion;
provided that at least one R 1 or R 2 group represents
0
II
C χ H y O z N w C-
at least one of X, Y or Z represents C χ H y O z N w -
Particularly envisaged are compounds in which at least one
0 O
C x H y O z N w C- especially C x H y C- and X, Y and Z each individually represent H or a counterion.
In compositions of this invention the compound of tructure (1) generally functions as a surfactant and the composition is a foaming cleansing composition. Usually the composition includes water.
The invention also provides a method for the use of the composition as herein defined, for cleaning the hair or the skin.
The invention also provides a method for cleaning the skin or the hair which comprises the steps of
(i) applying to the skin or hair an effective amount of a cleansing composition as herein defined;
(ii) forming a lather on the skin or hair by massaging in the presence of added water, thereby to cleanse the skin or hair; and
(iii) subsequently rinsing the lather from the skin or
hair with water.
The invention also provides for the use of an effective amount of at least 0.001% by weight based on the total composition of a compound having the structure (1) , as herein defined, to deliver to the epidermis, as a moisturiser for the skin, the corresponding hydroxy di- or tribasic acid or salt thereof, where in structure (1) , each R 1 represents -H and H, Y and Z each represent -H or a counterion.
The invention also provides a method for delivering to the epidermis a hydroxy di- or tribasic acid or salt thereof having a structure as the structure (1) , where each R 1 represents -H and X, Y and Z each represent -H or a counterion, which comprises the steps of
(i) applying topically to the skin a composition as
(ii) leaving the composition in contact with the skin for at least 10 seconds to permit the acyl hydroxy di- or tribasic acid or salt thereof to penetrate through the stratum corneum to reach the lower strata of the epidermis; and
(iii) cleaving the acyl hydroxy di- or tribasic acid salt in the epidermis by contact with esterases to provide the hydroxy di- or tribasic acid.
The surfactant compound
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more derivatives of a hydroxy di- or tribasic acid or salt thereof having the structure (1) , as herein defined.
Examples of such derivatives of hydroxy dibasic and tribasic acids or salts thereof having the structure (1)
in which R 1 or R 2 is acyl are the sodium, calcium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium salts of:
(i) substituted tartaric acid having the formula
such as 0,0' -dipropionoyl tartaric acid, also named 2,3- dioxypropionoyl tartaric acid, 0-propionoyl tartaric acid, also named 2-oxypropionoyl tartaric acid, and the corresponding homologous compounds, notably
0,0' -dibutanoyl tartaric acid 0-butanoyl tartaric acid
0,0' -dioctanoyl tartaric acid 0,0-octanoyl tartaric acid 0,0' -didodecanoyl tartaric acid 0-dodecanoyl tartaric acid
[ii) substituted tartronic acid having the formula
0R J
Y00C-CH 2 -C-C00X
such as
0-propionoyl tartronic acid 0-butanoyl tartronic acid
0-hexanoyl tartronic acid
0-octanoyl tartronic acid
0-decanoyl tartronic acid
O-dodecanoyl tartronic acid O-tetradecanoyl tartronic acid
O-octadecanoyl tartronic acid
(iii) substituted malic acid having the formula
OR J
YOOC-CH-COOX
such as
O-propionoyl malic acid O-butanoyl malic acid O-hexanoyl malic acid O-octanoyl malic acid O-decanoyl malic acid
O-dodecanoyl malic acid O-tetradecanoyl malic acid O-octadecanoyl malic acid
(iv) substituted citric acid having the formula
such as
O-propionoyl citric acid O-butanoyl citric acid O-hexanoyl citric acid O-octanoyl citric acid O-decanoyl citric acid O-dodecanoyl citric acid O-tetradecanoyl citric acid O-octadecanoyl citric acid.
Examples of compounds in which X or Y is an alkyl group are mono octyl tartrate mono decyl tartronate mono dodecyl maleate, and mono dodecyl O-acetyl citrate.
The amount of the compound of structure (1) present in the
composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 30%, better 0.5 or 1% to 30%, most preferably from 2 to 30% by weight of the composition.
Co-surfactant
The composition according to the invention optionally further comprises one or more co-surfactant (s) in an amount up to 30% preferably from 5 to 25% by weight of the composition. Most preferably the amount of the co- surfactant present in the composition is from 10 to 25% by weight.
The preferred co-surfactants useful in the present invention are not only very mild but also result in superior, rich-foaming compositions when combined with the acyl hydroxy acids in the specified amounts.
The following compounds are suitable as co-surfactants in the cleansing compositions according to the invention.
Anionic surfactant
The composition of the invention can comprise an anionic surfactant which is preferably chosen from alkyl sulphate, alkyl ether sulphate, alkyl sulphonate, alkyl aryl sulphonate, olefin sulphonate, acyl sarcosinate, acyl tauride, acyl isethionate, monoalkyl sulphosuccinate, dialkylsulphosuccinate, N-acylated α-amino acid, alkyl carboxylate, monoalkyl phosphate and dialkyl phosphate.
Specific examples of anionic surfactants include:
alkyl sulphates, such as sodium lauryl sulphate [e.g. EMPICOL CX available from Albright __ Wilson] , and triethanolamide lauryl sulphate [e.g. EMPICOL TL40/T, available from Albright & Wilson] .
alkylether sulphates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate [e.g. EMPICOL ESB70, available from Albright & Wilson] .
alkyl sulphonates, such as sodium alkane (C 13 _ 18 ) sulphonate [e.g. HOSTAPUR SAS 30, available from Hoechst] .
alkylaryl sulphonates, such as sodium alkyl benzene sulphonate [e.g. TEEPOL CM44, available from Shell] .
olefin sulphonates, such as sodium olefin sulphonate (C 5 _ 18 ) [e.g. HOSTAPUR OS, available from Hoechst] .
acyl sarcosinates, having the structure: (51)
where R 3 is chosen from C 6 _ 14 alkyl, and
M is a counterion chosen from alkali metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium such as alkanolammonium.
An example of an acyl sarcosinate having the structure (51) , is sodium lauryl sarcosinate [e.g. HAMPOSYL L-95, available from Grace] .
acyl taurides, having the structure (52)
O
R 4 -C-N- (CH 2 ) 2 S0 3 M (52) CH,
where R 4 is chosen from C 8 _ 18 alkyl
An example of an acyl tauride having the structure (52) is
coconut methyl taurine [e.g. FENOPEN TC 42, available from GAF] .
acyl isethionates, having the structure (53) :
O
R 5 5 -CI-0- (CH 2 ) 2 S0 3 M (53)
where R 5 is chosen from C 8 _ 18 alkyl.
An example of an acyl isethionate having the structure (53) is sodium acyl isethionate [e.g. JORDAPON Cl, available from Jordon] .
monoalkyl sulphosuccinates, having the structure (54)
(54)
where R 6 is chosen from C 10 _ 20 alkyl.
Examples of monoalkyl sulphosuccinates having the structure (54) include:
sodium lauryl sulphosuccinate [e.g. EMPICOL SLL, available from Albright S_ Wilson] .
magnesium alkyl sulphosuccinate [e.g. ELFANOL 616 Mg, available from AKZO] .
sodium lauryl ethoxysulphosuccinate [e.g. EMPICOL SDD, available from Albright & Wilson] .
coconut monoethanolamide ethoxysulphosuccinate [e.g. EMPICOL SGG] .
disodium lauryl polyglvcolether sulphosuccinate [e.g. SURTAGENE S30, available from CHEM-Y] .
polyethyleneqlycol sulphosuccinate [e.g. REWOPOL SBFA 30, available from REWO] .
dialkyl sulphosuccinates, having the structure (55) :
O R 7 -0-C-CH CH-COOR 8 (55)
S0 3 M
where R 7 and R 8 are the same or different, and are chosen from C 6 _ 14 alkyl .
An example of a dialkyl sulphosuccinate having the structure (55) is sodium dilauryl sulphosuccinate [e.g. EMCOL 4500, available from Witco] .
acyl lactylates, having the structure (56) :
where R is chosen from C 6 _ 16 alkyl,
and n is 1 or 2.
An example of an acyl lactylate having the structure (6) is decanoyl lactylate [e.g. PATIONIC 122a, available from Patterson, CJ] .
N-acylated α-amino acids, such as sodium lauroyl glutamate [e.g. ACYLGLUTAMATE LS-11, available from Ajinomoto Co. Inc] .
alkyl ether carboxylates , such as
C 12 _ 14 0 (EO) 4 OCH 2 C0 2 Na [e . g . AKYPO RLM 38 , available from
Akzo] .
monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as dioctyl phosphate.
Cationic surfactant
The composition of the invention can also comprise a cationic surfactant. Suitable cationic surfactants are those with the structure (57) :
where R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 each represents alkyl or aryl groups, and X represents an halogen counterion.
Preferred cationic surfactants in accordance with structure (57) include:
Hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, such as Arquad 16, available from Akzo.
Dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, such as Arquad 2HT, available from Akzo.
Dodecyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, such as Amoxyl BR 1244, available from Seppic.
Cocoamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, such as Empigen CSC, available from Albright & Wilson.
Amphoteric surfactant
The composition of the invention can also comprise an amphoteric surfactant. Suitable amphoteric surfactants are derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium and sulphonium compounds, wherein the aliphatic radicals contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be straight chain or branched, and further contain an anionic water-solubilising group, such as carboxyl, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate.
Preferred amphoteric surfactants include:
Alkyl betaines. having the structure (58) :
where R 1 is C 1 _ 16 alkyl .
An example of an alkyl betaine having the structure (58) is lauryldimethyl betaine [e.g. EMPIGEN BB, available from Albright & Wilson] .
Alkylamidopropyl betaines, having the structure (59)
An example of an alkylamidopropyl betaine having the structure (59) is cocamidopropyl betaine [e.g. TEGOBETAIN L7, available from Goldschmidt) .
Alkylamphoglycinates or Alkylamphopropionates having the structure (60) :
O R 11
Ri 1 -CII-N- (CH 2 ) 2 -NI + - (CH 2 ) 2 OH (60)
R lll
where R 11 is chosen from H, CH 2 COO " and (CH 2 ) 2 COO " , and R 111 is chosen from CH 2 C00 _ and (CH 2 ) 2 COO _
Suitable examples of compounds (60) are cocoamphoglycinate (available from International Specialty Products) , and cocoamphopropionate.
Sultaines, having the structure (61) :
where R 2 is chosen from C 12 _ 16 alkyl alkylamido groups.
An example of a sultaine having the structure (61) is cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine [e.g. CYCLOTERIC BET-CS, available from Alcolac) .
The most preferred amphoteric surfactant are lauryl dimethyl betaine and cocamidopropyl betaine.
Nonionic surfactant
The composition of the invention can also comprise alkoxylated or glycosidic nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 or more. Above this value nonionics generally form clear isotropic solutions in combination with the other surfactants in the ranges defined above. Preferred
nonionic surfactants are polyoxyethylene alkyl esters and polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers and alkyl polyglycosides .
A suitable example of a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester is that having the CTFA designation Polysorbate 80 which is a mixture of oleate esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides, condensed with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Also suitable is Polysorbate 20 which is a mixture of laurate esters or sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides condensed with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
Polysorbate 80 and Polysorbate 20 are available commercially as TWEEN 80 and TWEEN 20 respectively, from ICI Americas.
Also suitable for use in the compositions of the invention is the polyethylene glycol ether of C 9 _ l alcohol with an average of 8 ethoxy units, which is available commercially as NONIDET LE-8T or as SYNPERONIC 91-8T, and the polyethylene glycol ether of C 12 _ 15 alcohol with an average of 9 ethoxy units which is available commercially as DOBANOL 25-9.
Particularly useful alkyl polyglycosides include the glycosides of glucose or glucose oligomers where the alkyl chain can be C 8 _ 16 and the average number of glucose units is 1 to 2. A suitable example is ORAMIX NS 10 which is the glucoside of C 10 _ 12 fatty alcohol with an average of about 1.5 glucose units.
Cosmeticallv Acceptable Vehicles
The acyl derivative of a hydroxy di- or tribasic acid or salt, as herein described, will in use normally be applied to human skin in the form of a composition that also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, that is
intended to facilitate the distribution of the hydroxy acid or salt on and over the skin surface at an appropriate concentration.
The composition can thus be solid, semi-solid or liquid in nature, dependent upon the choice of vehicle. The vehicle itself can be inert or it can possess beneficial physiological properties of its own.
The composition can also be packaged in a pressurised container for an aerosol, spray or mousse, in which case, the vehicle will usually be chosen from one or more propellants.
The selection of a vehicle for this purpose presents a wide range of possibilities depending on the required product form of the composition. Suitable vehicles can be classified as described hereinafter.
Vehicles are therefore substances that can act as diluents, dispersants, or solvents for the hydroxy alkanoate derivative which ensures that it can be applied to and distributed evenly over the skin at an appropriate concentration. The vehicle is preferably one which can aid penetration of the acyl hydroxy acid deep into the epidermis, to enable it more readily to influence the condition of the skin.
Compositions according to the invention can include water as a vehicle, and/or at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle other than water. The inclusion of at least some water, preferably as 10 to 85%, often a majority from 50 to 85% by weight of the composition is preferred.
Vehicles other than water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders.
The cosmetically acceptable vehicle will usually form from 10 to 99.9%, preferably 20 to 90% by weight of the composition and can, in the absence of other cosmetic materials, form the balance of the composition.
Optional Ingredients
The cleansing composition according to the invention can also comprise optional ingredients to modify the physical or chemical characteristics of the composition, e.g. product form, foaming properties, pH-value or shelf life.
Examples for ingredients which can be included in the compositions according to the invention are:
Emollients, such as:
[PEG] -20 Corn Glycerides,
[PEG] -60 Corn Glycerides, - [PEG] -20 Almond Glycerides,
[PEG] -60 Almond Glycerides,
[PEG] -12 Palm Kernel Glycerides,
[PEG] -45 Palm Kernel Glycerides,
[PEG] -20 Evening Primrose Glycerides, - [PEG] -60 Evening Primrose Glycerides,
Ethoxylated (EO) -20 methyl glucoside, also referred to as Methyl gluceth-20
Propoxylated (EO) -10 methyl glucoside.
A group of preferred emollients are poly (oxyalkylene) glycerides mono-substituted with a C 10 to C 18 alkyl group and having up to 20 C 2 to C 3 oxyalkylene moieties per molecule of the glyceride, as an average value.
Especially preferred emollients are polyoxyalkylene methyl glucosides having, as an average value, up to 20 C 2 - C 3 oxyalkylene moieties per molecule glucoside. These
emollients are very beneficial as they impart a soft feeling to the skin and support the ability of the skin to retain moisture. Examples for such polyoxyalkylene methyl glucosides are available as Glucam E-20 and Glucam P10, respectively, from Amerchol .
Humectants, such as propan-1,3-diol, butan-1, 3-diol glycerine, sorbitol, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, soluble collagen, gelatine, ethoxylated (EO) -20 methyl glucoside, and propoxylated (EO) -10 methyl glucoside.
Preservatives, such as propyl & methyl-p-amino benzoic acid, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, alkali metal halides;
pH controlling agents, such as sodium hydroxide, citric acid, triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, amino sorbitol. The pH controlling agents are preferably present in an amount sufficient to adjust the composition to a pH value in the range of 5.5 to 8.5, for example using phosphate or citrate buffers.
Propellants, such as fluorochloro hydrocarbons, propane, butane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide;
Foam modifying agents, such as cationic polymers, especially quaternised ammonium hydroxy ethyl cellulose polymers, e.g. available as polyquaternium-24 or polyquaternium-10. These polymers make the foam creamier and richer.
Penetration ehancers, to facilitate penetration into the skin of the surfactant compound of the structure (1) .
Oil and oily materials to form the basis of emulsions.
Emulsifiers having an HLB value of 1 to 6 to enable water- in-oil emulsions to be formed, or having HLB value of <6 to enable an oil-in-water emulsion to be formed.
Silicone oils and silicone emulsifier
Retinoids, tocopherols and tocopheryl esters
Preservatives
Antioxidants
Humectants Buffers
Ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and other skin lipids of animal or vegetable origin or synthesised chemically
Pseudoceramides
Vitamins Waxes
Plant extracts
Thickeners
USE OF THE COMPOSITION
The cleansing composition according to the invention is primarily intended as a personal washing product for cleansing the face. It can also be used for washing the hair as well as the whole body. The composition according to the invention is preferably used as facial cleanser, facial wash foam, hair shampoo, body shampoo, bath foam or shaving cream.
Typically, for the use of the cleansing composition according to the invention; a small quantity, for example from 1 to 5ml, of the composition is either rubbed between the hands, together with water together to form a foam which is then used for washing or applied via a sponge to the area to be cleansed, or the foam is generated directly on that area. The foam is subsequently rinsed away with clean water.
A composition of this invention can also serve for delivering the derivative of a hydroxy acid to skin, for is to penetrate into the skin and there undergo enzymic cleavrage to yield the hydroxy acid or salt thereof, to serve as an agent to enhance skin moisture/elasticity.
A composition according to the invention can take the form of a liquid or gel, intended to be dispensed from a capped container such as a bottle, roll-on applicator or tube, or a pump-operated or prope11ant-driven aerosol dispenser.
The composition can also take the form of a solid, such as a stick or a bar or tablet intended to be used for washing instead of a conventional soap bar.
Foam-Height Test
The test-method used to assess the foaming power of compounds of structure (1) for use in the cleansing compositions according to the invention is the ASTM D 1173-53 test, also referred to as Ross-Miles test, and described in J Ross and G D Miles, American Society for Testing Materials, 1953, pages 644-646. The test is carried out at a temperature of 20°C by using an aqueous test solution of 0.3% by weight of the compound of structure (1) . This is a realistic concentration representing use of a cleansing composition by the consumer, e.g. when topically applied on the face or body together with water to generate the desired foam. The pH value of the test solution is adjusted to a pH of 7 by addition of aqueous sodium hydroxide solution.
Results obtained were:
Compound Foam Height (mm) O-Decanoylcitrate 55
O-Dedocanoylcitrate 25
2,3- (Didodecanoxyloxy)tartrate 30
Mono-dodecanoyl O,O' -diacetyl tartrate 65
Mono-tetradecanyl 0,0' -diacetyl tartrate 30
EXAMPLES
The following examples further illustrate the invention by giving conventionally prepared formulations for different types of compositions.
Example 1 - Facial Cleanser wt
O,O' -dipropionoyl tartaric acid, mono potassium salt 15.00 Disodium lauryl sulphosuccinate 7.00
Glycerol (Humectant) 5.00
Sodium chloride (Thickener) 4.20
Methyl gluceth-20 (Humectant/Emollient) 3.00
Polyquaternium 10 (Foam modifier) 0.40 Ethyleneglycol monostearate (Thickener) 0.40
Preservative 0.30
Fragrance 0.30 Citric acid to pH 7.0-7.5 Distilled water to 100.00
Example 2 - Mild Facial Cleanser wt %
O-octanoyl tartaric acid, disodium salt 20.00
Sorbitol (Humectant) 9.00 Sodium cocoyl isethionate 7.00
Cocoamidopropyl hydroxysulphobetaine 4.00 Polyoxyethylene [EO] -20 sorbitan monolaurate
(Thickener) 3.00
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (Thickener) 0.20
Preservative 0.20
Fragrance 0.10 Citric acid to pH 6.0-6.5
Distilled water to 100.00
Example 3 - Facial Cleanser for Dry Skin wt
O-butanoyl tartronic acid, di-
(triethanolammonium) salt 25.00 Sodium monolauryl phosphate 10.00
Propylene glycol 10.00
Polyethyleneglycol (PEG) -150 distearate 5.00
Preservative 0.25
Fragrance 0.20 Citric acid to pH 6.5-7.0
Distilled water to 100.00
Example 4 - Mild Facial Cleanser for Sensitive Skin wt % O-dodecanoyl tartronic acid, diammonium salt 20.00 Sodium N-methyl-N-myristoyl taurate 6.00
Cocoamphoacetate 3.50
Glycerol (Humectant) 9.00
Diglycerol (Humectant) 1.00
PEG-20 almond glycerides (Emollient) 5.00 Polyquaternium 24 (Thickener, Foam Modifier) 0.40 Sodium Hydroxide (aq. soln.) to pH 6.0-6.5 Distilled water to 100.00
Example 5 - Liquid Hand Soap wt
O-octanoyl malic acid, dipotassium salt
Triethanolammonium N-lauroyl glutamate
Cocoamidopropyl betaine
Propyleneglycol hydroxy isostearate (Thickene Trisodium citrate (Thickener) '
Preservative
Fragrance
Triethanolamine to pH 7.0-7.3
Distilled water
Example 6 - 7Anti-Acne Facial Cleansing Scrub Gel wt
O-octadecanoyl malic acid, monosodium salt 18.00
Sodium N-cocoyl sarcosinate 6.00 Benzoyl peroxide (70% aq.soln.) 14.30
Polyoxyethylene (PEG) -20 cetyl ether
(Thickener, Emulsifier) 10.00
Magnesium aluminium silicate (Thickener) 1.00
Disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate (Chelating Agent) 0.20
Sodium Hydroxide to pH 7.0-7.5
Distilled water to 100.00
Example 7 - Hair Shampoo t %
O-propionoyl citric acid, monosodium salt 21.00
Sodium lauryl (PEG) -10 acetate 4.00 Cocoamphodipropionate 3.00
Propylene glycol (Humectant) 2.50
Sodium chloride (Thickener) 1.20
Preservative 0.20
Fragrance 0.20 Citric acid to pH 6.0-6.5
Distilled water to 100.00
Example 8 - Mild Hair Shampoo wt O-octanoyl citric acid, tripotassium salt 15.00
Lauryl ethoxylated (EO)-2.5 phosphoric acid 8.00 Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (50% aq.soln.)
(Humectant) 1.00
Sodium chloride (Thickener) 3.00 Fragrance 0.24
Preservative 0.10 Potassium hydroxide (aq.soln.) to pH 6.0-6.5 Distilled water to 100.00
Example 9 - Clear Conditioning Shower Gel wt %
Sodium laurylether sulphate 13.00 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.00
Glycerol 5.00
Hectorite clay 1.00
Dilauryl malate 1.50
Trisodium citrate 0.37 Potassium sorbate 0.37
Water to 100
Example 10 - Facial Cream Wash t Sodium cocoyl isethionate 7.50
Cocoamidopropyl betaine 3.75
Monoethanolamide sulphosuccinate 3.75
Glycerol 8.00
Stearic acid 3.00 Behenyl alcohol 3.00
Formaldehyde 0.40
Carpobol ETD 2020 0.50
Mono-isostearyl tartronate 5.00
Polyethoxypropylene glycoldioleate 0.50 Sodium hydroxide to pH 5.50
Water to 100
Example 11 - Body Conditioning Foam Bath wt %
Sodium cocoyl isethionate 4.50 Sodium laurylether sulphate 3.00
Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.50
Glycerol 10.00
Silicone DC200 10,000 cst 5.00
Brij 30 2.02 Brij 35 2.92
Distearyl tartrate 3.00
Tocopherol Acetate 0.10
Span 20 0.50
Trisodium citrate 0.37 Potassium sorbate 0.37
Hectorite clay 2.00
Cationic guar gum 0.25
Water to 100
Example 12 - Water-in-oil skin cream
Example 13 - Water-in-oil skin cream
Example 14 - Water-in-oil skin cream with sunscreens
Example 15 - Oil-in-water skin cream
Example 16 - Face mask