The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly a cleansing cosmetic composition of the skin and skin appendages, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands and/or hair, comprising an aqueous phase, two specific surfactants, one amphoteric of betaine type, the other anionic of alkyl sulfate type, a specific diol and a fructan.

The cleansing of the skin is very important for skin care. It must be as effective as possible because fatty residues such as excess sebum or the remainder of cosmetic products used daily accumulate in the skin folds and can obstruct the pores of the skin and cause the appearance of pimples. A means for correctly cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products.

Foaming cleansing products currently commercially available have the form of cakes, gels or foaming liquids. They generally contain either soaps that have the advantage of providing a creamy and voluminous foam but can cause tightness due to their excessive detergency, or foaming surfactants of syndet type and stabilizers, which are associated with one another. Moreover, the use of the foaming cleansing products currently commercially available can cause the eyes to sting and/or eye irritation.

Users are increasingly seeking new cleansing and/or care products for keratin materials, preferably for the skin of the face and/or of the body and/or of the hands.

Therefore, there is a need for cleansing and/or care compositions for keratin materials, preferably of the skin of the face and/or of the body and/or of the hands which exhibit good ocular tolerance, while being foaming, stable, have a sufficient rinse rate, and give the skin a protective and/or moisturizing film. There is also a need for cleansing and/or care compositions for keratin materials, preferably of the skin of the face and/or of the body and/or of the hands which exhibit the previously mentioned advantages as well as a sufficient fluidity. The aim of the present invention is to provide such compositions, not having the drawbacks of the prior art, having good qualities of use (foam quality, consistency, skin moisturization after drying), and a good ocular tolerance.

The inventors have demonstrated that a composition containing an amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, an anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, a specific diol and a fructan, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition, particularly a shower gel that responds to these needs while remaining stable. The compositions according to the invention particularly have an enhanced ocular tolerance. The compositions according to the invention also have an optimized viscosity for the use thereof.

More specifically, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: an aqueous phase, at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, pentylene glycol, and at least 0.9% active substance by weight of at least one fructan relative to the total weight of the composition.

It also relates to a process for the cleansing of keratin materials, particularly the skin of the body or face or hair or hands, comprising the application on said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

The term “keratin materials” refers to the skin (body, face, eye contour), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips and/or mucous membranes.

The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” refers to any medium compatible with the skin and/or integuments thereof, having a pleasant color, odor and texture and not giving rise to unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to dissuade the consumer from using the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water. The water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or a spring or natural mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, water from the basin of Vichy, Uriage water, la Roche Posay water, la Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, les Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avene water.

The aqueous phase contains possibly at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water.

The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the invention comprise short-chain mono-alcohols for example C1 -C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises pentylene glycol.

Preferably, the active substance content of pentylene glycol is between 0.05% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight.

The pentylene glycol is particularly that marketed by MINASOLVE under the name A-LEEN 5 or by SYMRISE under the name HYDROLITE 5 GREEN, by AROMA HOLLY LIMITED under the name PENTYLENE GLYCOL, by MINASOLVE under the name PENTIOL, by LANXESS under the name PUROLAN PD-LO or by SYMRISE under the name HYDROLITE-5.

The presence of pentylene glycol in the composition according to the invention helps reduce the viscosity of the composition. Pentylene glycol has a higher fluidization efficiency than other known fluidizers. It thus helps reduce the quantity of fluidizer comprised in the composition, while retaining an equivalent or even lower viscosity.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity in the range of 20 to 100 s, preferably 30 to 70 s, measured by the following test A: A consistometer cup is used, for example the Labomat VF2050 consistometer cup, with a diameter of 6 mm ("CF6"). 150 ml of composition are placed in the cup, and the whole is thermostated at 25°C +/- 0.5°C.

Then, the cup is placed on a horizontal support, and a beaker is placed underneath on a balance. The flow time is timed so that 90g +/- 0.5g of composition falls to a standardized height of 20 cm into the beaker. The standardized height of 20 cm is the distance from the lower end of the consistometer cup to the surface of the balance.

The measurement can only be considered meaningful for a continuous flow of these 90 g.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from glycerol, or comprises glycerol such that the active substance weight ratio between fructan and glycerol is strictly greater than 1 .

The term "free from glycerol" denotes that the composition according to the invention comprises no glycerol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous phase represents from 15 to 97% by weight, preferentially from 30 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 45 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 50% by weight of water, preferably at least 55% by weight.

Betaine type amphoteric surfactant

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants according to the invention are preferably selected from:

- alkyl betaines, and particularly lauryl betaine such as for example the product GENAGEN KB® by CLARIANT, or coco-betaine such as for example the product Dehyton AB 30® by BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 by Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH;

N-alkylamido betaines and derivatives thereof, and particularly cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® by SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® by ALBRIGHT AND WILSON), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® by WITCO), or N-disodium N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; for example MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRATE NP® by RHODIA CHIMIE); - sultaines, such as cocoyl amidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine (for example CROSULTAINE C-500® by CRODA);

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the betaine type amphoteric surfactant is selected from alkyl betaines and N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from N-alkylamido betaines, more preferably from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine and mixtures thereof.

The active substance content of amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from alkyl betaines is preferably between 1 % and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight.

Anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates.

Among alkyl sulfate anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use alkyl sulfate salts and mixtures thereof, in particularly in the form of alkaline (Na or K) or alkaline earth (e.g., Mg) metal or ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from ammonium salts.

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is ammonium lauryl sulfate.

Ammonium lauryl sulfate is the ammonium salt of the sulfate ester of lauric alcohol which generally has the formula CH ₃ (CH ₂ )IOCH ₂ OS03NH4.

The INCI name is ammonium lauryl sulfate.

A preferred ammonium lauryl sulfate according to the present invention is that marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name SULFETAL LA B - RSPO - MB or SULFETAL LA B, by PCC EXOL under the name ROSULFAN A MB or ROSULFAN A or by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS under the name EMPICOL AL 30 I FL3 I MB or EMPICOL AL 30 / FL3.

The active substance content of alkyl sulfate type anionic surfactant(s) is preferably at least equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, preferably between 5 and 15% by weight. Furthermore, preferably in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of active substance between the anionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant is less than or equal to 4.5, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5, preferably between 3 and 4, preferably between 3.1 and 3.9.

Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the total active substance quantity of surfactants is between 6 and 30% by weight, preferably between 6 and 20% by weight.

Fructan

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least 0.9% of active substance by weight of at least one fructan relative to the total composition weight.

Fructans (or fructosans) are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a chain of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with one or more different saccharide residues of fructose. Fructans can be linear or branched. Fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products in which the chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis, or hydrolysis, particularly enzymatic. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 3 to about 60.

Among fructans, one group is distinguished comprising products in which the fructose units are mostly bonded by p bonds (2^1). These are essentially linear fructans, such as inulins.

Preferably, the fructan comprised in the compositions according to the invention is inulin. Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia, or Jerusalem artichoke. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory.

Inulin is particularly plentiful in plant rhizomes, particularly Jerusalem artichoke and chicory from which it is extracted industrially. It is also found in other plants belonging to the Asteraceae family such as Jerusalem artichokes, or dahlia bulbs, and burdock.

Inulins are polydispersed linear polymers of general formula GFn (G = glucose, F = Fructose, n varying from 2 to over 60), the fructose units being bonded together by a bond (2^1). Therefore, inulins correspond to a chain of fructose units terminated by a glucose unit. Inulin can be represented by the following formula (I): wherein n varies from 2 to 60.

Among the inulins suitable for use and commercially available, mention can be made of Inutec H25P n between 2 and 7 Inutec N25 by Orafti (mean n = 25).

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise a salt, particularly an electrolyte.

The electrolyte can be selected from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate. The electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.

Preferably, the active substance content of electrolyte is between 0.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 2% by weight.

The electrolyte is particularly used to correct the final viscosity of the composition according to the invention.

Compositions according to the present invention can further comprises conventional cosmetic additives, selected particularly from preservatives, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or nonionic thickeners, moistening agents, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, active constituents, fillers, propellants or any other ingredient usually used for cosmetics and/or dermatology.

Among the pH adjusters, mention may be made of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid,

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalin izing agents, mentioned may be made, by way of example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as the derivatives thereof, sodium and potassium hydroxides.

These pH adjusters can be present at an active substance amount between 0.01% and 1 %, in order to obtain an acceptable pH. Typically, the pH of the compositions according to the invention is between 4 and 7, and preferably between 4 and 6.

Among the oils, mention may be made of plant oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and particularly black seed (Nigella) oil, sweet almond oil, or essential oils, such as essential mint oil or essential peppermint oil. These oils can be present at an active substance amount between 0.0001% and 1% by weight, preferably 0.001% and 0.5% by weight.

Obviously, a person skilled in the art would take care to select the optional complementary compound(s) cited above and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, impaired by the contemplated addition(s).

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." are to be understood to be inclusive of the limits, unless specified otherwise.

The following examples illustrate the invention without being in any way limitative. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients are given as a % by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 : Preparation and evaluation of compositions according to the invention and

1. Preparation of compositions:

Composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* to C6* were prepared by mixing the ingredients from the tables below in water. [Table 1 ]

2. Ocular tolerance measurement protocols and results for the compositions

In the examples, the ocular tolerance of the compositions was evaluated.

For this, in vitro tests for ascertaining corneal integrity, on one hand, and conjunctival integrity, on the other, were conducted respectively according to appropriate protocols based on those of the following official standards: - OECD BCOP ("Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability test method") protocol

437 ("OECD test guideline 437, https://read.oecd-ilibrarv.org/environment/test-no-437- bovine-corneal-opacitv-and-permeabilitv-test-method-for-iden tifyinq-i-chemicals-inducinq- serious-eve-damage-and-ii-chemicals-not-requiring-classifica tion-for-eye-irritation-or- serious-eye-damaqe 9789264203846-en#paqe7) and

- HETCAM (hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane) protocol from the Order of 29 November 1996 on official analytical methods required for cosmetic product testing, https://www.leqifrance.qouv.fr/iorf/id/JORFTEXT00000036936Q/ .

In this study, the assessment of the ocular tolerance of the different compositions is based on corneal integrity evaluation and conjunctival integrity evaluation methods. These results are represented in Table 2 followed by a number of "+" signs according to the degree of preservation of corneal or conjunctival integrity.

[Table 2]

Composition C1 according to the invention gave +++ results for both corneal integrity and conjunctival integrity; therefore, it exhibits markedly superior ocular tolerance results in the models used to that observed for comparative test compositions C2* to C6*.

These results obtained in vitro indicate enhanced clinical ocular tolerance in the case of the compositions according to the invention.

Example 2: Preparation and evaluation of compositions according to the invention

Composition C7 according to the invention was prepared by mixing the ingredients from the tables below in water.

[Table 3]

The moisturizing effect of composition C7 according to the invention was tested by corneometry.

The test panel is as follows:

- 24 females aged from 21 to 65 years (mean age: 52 years)

- Inclusion values on legs: 20 to 40 A.U. (after 20-min conditioning period) and

- Not prone to hot flashes.

The test conditions are as follows:

Study region: inner surface of legs. Delimitation of 2 areas of 4*4 cm ² - 1 areas on each leg, a treated area versus an untreated area.

Number of applications: 1

Quantity applied: 2mg/cm ² , or 32 mg on the area

Washing procedure

1) Moistening of the area using 3 cottons soaked in warm water (38+/-2°C), application of shower gel with finger cot and gentle massages for 15 sec. Product left to act for 30 sec, rinse with 20 ml of water at 38°C - drying by dabbing gently with a tissue.

The untreated area is moistened and rinsed. Drying by dabbing gently with a tissue

2) 30 min break in an air-conditioned room at 21+*-1 °C-45+/-5% RH

3) Measurement of skin moisturization with CM825 corneometer (high pressure) before washing, then 30 min after standardized washing.

The results obtained are given in the table below, representing the mean corneometry values +/- sd, in A.U. [Table 4]

Composition C7 increases skin moisturization significantly 30 min (8%) after application compared to the control area washed with water.

Composition C7 therefore has a significant effect 30 min after application on the skin.

Furthermore, the viscosity of composition C7 was evaluated; the presence of pentylene glycol in composition C7 makes it possible to obtain a composition with a lower viscosity than in the absence of pentylene glycol.

The viscosity was measured according to the protocol of test A above.

The viscosity of composition C7 is of 40 s, whereas the viscosity of a composition corresponding to composition C7 without pentylene glycol is of 108 s.