Co-polymers in Hair Styling Applications

The present invention relates to hair care compositions and particularly to the use of copolymers of unsaturated esters and styrene sulphonates to improve the thermal protection properties of hair styling formulations. Heat styling, particularly using blow dryers, hair straighteners or curling devices which heat the hair during styling, is prevalent amongst consumers. Unfortunately, heat styling can dry out and damage hair particularly by subjecting the hair to too much heat. For example, hair can be overdryed by holding a blow dryer too close to the hair, or by holding a blow dryer or curling device too long at a particular spot of the hair. The overheating causes moisture to be driven out of the hair so that the hair becomes brittle and more susceptible to cracking. In addition, overheating in heat styling can cause physical damage to the hair, particularly by raising the cuticles and/or creating blisters on individual hair fibres, thus causing increased friction between the hair fibres, making it more difficult to comb, requiring increased force to comb the hair, leading to wear to the outer surface of the hair and potentially cracks and breaks in the hair. Current approaches to protecting hair from such thermal damage include the use of silicone containing compounds such as polydimethicanol, cyclopentasiloxane and amodimethicone (Dow Corning), co-polymers of vinyl containing monomers such as copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl aminopropyl methacrylate (Styleze CC-10, ISP Corp) and sodium polystyrene sulphonate (Flexan II, National Starch). Unsaturated esters have been reported widely as being beneficial in personal care applications, however they have no reported benefit for thermal protection of hair.

We have unexpectedly discovered that co-polymers of unsaturated esters and styrene sulphonate monomers can provide good thermal protection in hair treatment formulations and in particular can have significantly superior thermal protection properties to conventional polymers such as sodium polystyrene sulphonate.

Accordingly the present invention provides a method of treating hair wherein a composition comprising a copolymer of an unsaturated ester and a styrene sulphonate as an agent to reducing damage to hair caused by heat treatment or styling is applied to the hair, which is subsequently styled or otherwise subjected to heat treatment. The invention includes a hair care composition, particularly for the pre-treatment of hair before heating and styling, which composition includes a copolymer of an unsaturated ester and a styrene sulphonate as an agent to reducing damage to hair caused by heat treatment or styling.

Certain of the copolymers used in the method and composition of the invention are believed to be novel as compounds in their own right and the invention accordingly includes a copolymer of an

unsaturated ester of a (poly)alkoxylated alcohol and a carboxylic acid and a styrene sulphonate monomer.

The copolymer used in the method and composition of this invention is a copolymer of a styrene sulphonate monomer and an unsaturated ester. Generally the styrene sulphonate monomer will be styrene sulphonate, most commonly in neutralised or salt form, particularly the alkali metal or amine salt form, and especially conveniently as (the readily commercially available) sodium styrene sulphonate.

The unsaturated esters are generally esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids and alcohols. The unsaturated acids are ethylenically unsaturated, particularly α,β-unsaturated carboxylic acids. The unsaturated carboxylic acid can be a dicarboxylic acid; suitable examples including maleic, fumaric, itaconic, citraconic, and mesaconic acids, or combinations of two or more of these, with maleic acid being particularly suitable and preferred. Alternatively, the unsaturated carboxylic acid can be a monocarboxylic acid; suitable examples including acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, 3-methyl- crotonic, and 3-butenoic acids, or combinations of two or more of these, with (meth)acrylic acid being particularly suitable and preferred. If desired, mixtures or combinations of these types of acid may be used.

A wide variety of alcohols can be used to form the unsaturated ester. Suitable types of alcohols include straight chain alcohols, branched chain alcohols, cyclic alcohols, aromatic alcohols, sterols, stanols, alcohols derived from woolgrease such as lanolin alcohols, diols, polyols, and mixtures or combinations of these.

As the lubricating properties of the copolymers are at least in part contributed by the alcohol residue in the ester it is generally desirable to use relatively fatty alcohols e.g. those having more than about 12 and up to about 35, particularly from 14 to 33 carbon atoms such as the sterols, which are based on the 17-C steroid framework and typically have about 27 carbon atoms, stanols (hydrogenated sterols), which typically have about 27 carbon atoms, and alcohols derived from woolgrease, such as lanolin alcohols, which typically have from 14 to 33 carbon atoms, mentioned above.

We have obtained particularly good results using alkoxylated, particularly polyalkoxylated, alcohols, when the alcohol is (poly)alkoxylated the (poly)alkoxylating moiety is desirably oxyethylene, polyoxyethylene, oxypropylene, polyoxypropylene or a combination of these. The degree of alkoxylation in such (poly)alkoxylated alcohols is typically from 1 to about 100, more usually from 2 to about 50, and particularly about 40, moles of the alkoxylating moiety(s) per mole of alcohol.

We have found that (poly)alkoxylated alcohols provide esters with improved aqueous solubility and this benefits both synthesis of copolymers (conveniently carried out in aqueous solution) and their performance when used in the method and compositions of this invention. We have obtained

particularly good results using ethoxylated lanolin alcohols in the unsaturated esters and this accordingly forms a particularly desirable aspect of the invention.

The chemical composition of the unsaturated ester / sodium polystyrene sulphonate of the present invention can be considered in two parts. An unsaturated ester which is then co-polymerised with sodium styrene sulphonate to produce the unsaturated ester / sodium polystyrene sulphonate of the present invention.

Particularly useful unsaturated esters are those based on unsaturated, particularly α,β-unsaturated, monocarboxylic acids of the formula (I) or unsaturated, particularly α,β-unsaturated, dicarboxylic acids of the formula (II): R ¹ O ₂ CR ² (I) R ¹ O ₂ CR ⁴ CO ₂ R ⁵ (II)

R ¹ is the residue of an alcohol R ¹ OH;

R ² is an unsaturated monovalent radical of the monocarboxylic acid HO ₂ CR ² ; R ⁴ is an unsaturated divalent radical of the dicarboxylic acid HO ₂ CR ⁴ CO ₂ H; R ⁵ is H or independently a group as defined for R ¹ . Within these formulae, the copolymer compounds of the invention incorporate residues of unsaturated esters of the formulae (Ia) and (Ma):

R ¹ O ₂ CR ² (Ia) R ¹ O ₂ CR ⁴ CO ₂ R ⁵ ' (Na) where

R ¹ is the (poly)alkoxylated residue of a (poly)alkoxylated alcohol R ¹ OH; R ⁵ is H or independently a group as defined for R ¹ ; and

R ² and R ⁴ are respectively as defined for formula (I) and formula (II) respectively.

These unsaturated esters can be copolymerised with styrene sulphonate monomers, particularly sodium styrene sulphonate, by synthetic methods known to practitioners skilled in the art, usually by addition polymerisation of the ethylenic unsaturation in the styrene sulphonate with the unsaturation on the unsaturated ester.

The copolymers used in the method and composition of the invention can be represented by the formulae (III) and (IV):

(R ¹ O ₂ CR ² ') _m1 (R3) _n1 (III) (R ¹ O ₂ C(R ⁵ O ₂ C)R ⁴ ') _m2 (R ³ )n ₂ (IV) where R ¹ and R ⁵ are as defined in formula (II) above

R3 is the residue of a styrene sulphonate monomer, particularly sodium styrene sulphonate;

R ² is the residue of a (copolymerised) unsaturated monovalent radical of the monocarboxylic acid HO ₂ CR ² ; (where R ² is an unsaturated monovalent radical)

R ⁴ is the residue of a (copolymerised) unsaturated divalent radical of the dicarboxylic acid HO ₂ CR ⁴ CO ₂ H (where R ⁴ is an unsaturated divalent radical); and ml , n1 , m2 and n2 are the numbers of repeats of the respective co-monomers in the copolymer.

The copolymers of the invention can be represented by the formulae (Ilia) and (IVa): (Ri "O ₂ CR2') _m1 (R3) _n1 (MIa) (Riθ ₂ C(R5'θ ₂ C)R4') _m2 (R3) _n2 (IVa) where

R^ and R^ are as defined for formulae (Ia) and (Ha) respectively; and R2", R3, R4', ml , n1 , m2 and n2 are as defined above for formulae (III) and (IV) respectively, the monomer residues being arranged in any order.

The copolymers of and used in the method and composition of the invention are generally random (statistical) copolymers i.e. the precise structure will depend on the respective reactivity of the particular monomers used, the proportions of the monomers and the reaction conditions. Generally the relative proportions of unsaturated ester and (sodium) styrene sulphonate used in the copolymer are from about 1 : about 99 to about 99 : about 1 , more usually from about 10 : about 90 to about 90 : about 10 and advantageously from about 40 : about 60 to about 60 : about 40, by weight.

The weight average molecular weight of the copolymer of and used in the invention is 10 to 1000, more preferably 50 to 250 kilo-Daltons (kDa). This corresponds to an average number of repeat units of ester (when derived from monocarboxylic acid esters) - corresponding to the index ml and ml' in the formulae (III) and (Ilia) above, of typically 10 to 200, more usually 10 to 150, and particularly 15 to 75, and of styrene sulphonate monomer i.e. - corresponding to the index n1 and n1' in the formulae (III) and (Ilia) above of typically 50 to 2500, more usually 100 to 2000, and particularly 150 to 750; and to an average number of repeat units of ester (when derived from dicarboxylic acid esters) - corresponding to the index m2 and m2' in the formulae (III) and (Ilia) above, of typically 10 to 250, more usually 10 to 150, and particularly 15 to 75, and of styrene sulphonate monomer i.e. - corresponding to the index n2 and n2' in the formulae (III) and (Ilia) above of typically 50 to 2000, more usually 100 to 1500, and particularly 200 to 1200. In the hair care compositions of the invention, the copolymers, particularly of the formula (III) and (IV) above are generally used as aqueous based solutions in combination with other conventional formulation components such as organic solvents, surfactants, conditioning agents, thickeners, solubilisers, styling polymers, botanical extracts, UV-filters, preservatives and/or fragrances. Typically, hair treatment formulations will include both preservative and fragrance and will commonly include at least one of the other typical formulants listed above. In particular, the hair care composition is in the form of a hairspray, hair spritz, hair gel, hair colouring product, hair sunscreen product, shampoo, conditioner, styling mousse or gel, or other hair treatment composition. Advantageously the composition is in the form of an aqueous "leave on" composition or an aqueous "rinse off composition. In the hair care compositions of the invention, the copolymer of the styrene sulphonate and the unsaturated ester, particularly being or including the copolymer of the invention, desirably

comprises from about 0.5 to about 25%, more desirably about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight of the hair care composition. Lower amounts generally do not give significant thermal protection to treated hair and higher proportions do not seem to give rise to additional benefit when the hair care formulations are applied to hair at normal application rates. The composition of the inventionis typically applied to hair in a generally conventional manner with the copolymer present in solution in an aqueous formulation. The application to hair will generally follow normal practice for the formulatin type e.g. as a a hairspray, hair spritz, hair gel, hair colouring product, hair sunscreen product, shampoo, conditioner, styling mousse or gel, or other hair treatment composition. And may be left on the hair after treatment or rinsed off. As the composition will usually be applied to provide improved protection from heat, the hair will then usually be subjected to a heat treatment e.g. drying, or styling. The effect of the treatment will usually be (or be measured as) a reduction in the average increase in the combing force (peak force or total work) after heat treatment of a treated tress of hair compared to an untreated tress of hair after heat treatment. Figures 1 to 3 illustrate the invention

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic picture of testing tresses of hair using a tensile measurement device (see also below in the Examples). The testing method involves driving a comb through a tress of hair and the load required to achieve this is measured and peak forces and work done can be calculated. Referring to Figure 1 : a tress of hair (11 ) is clamped at one end into the machine (10) and a mechanical comb (12) is passed through the hair tress in the direction of arrow "A" whilst the force required to move the comb is measured by a measurement sensor (13).

Figures 2, 3 and 4 are micrographs of hair. Figure 2 shows untreated undamaged hair - the hair cuticles are smooth. Figure 3 shows hair that has been damaged by heat treatment showing the raising of the cuticles and blisters on individual hair fibres which causes friction between the fibres, therefore making it more difficult to comb and so increasing the force required to comb the hair.

Figure 4 shows hair treated with a copolymer of this invention (SE1 below) and then heat treated in a similar fashion to the hair shown in Figure 3. It will be noted that Figure 4, which has 10 scale intervals indicating 20μm, is at about 2.5 times the magnification of Figures 2 and 3, which have 10 scale intervals indicating 50μm. The lower level of damage to the hair in Figure 4 as compared with that shown in Figure 3 is readily apparent.

The following Examples illustrate the invention. All parts and percentages are by weight unless otherwise stated.

Materials

Alcohols

Aid Laneth-40 ethoxylated lanolin alcohols; Polychol-40 ex Croda Chemicals Europe

Alc2 cetyl/stearyl(C16/18) alcohol 25EO; Volpo CS25 ex Croda Chemicals Europe

Alc3 methanol

Alc4 ethanol

Alc5 iso-propanol

Alc6 butanol

Alc7 cyclohexanol

Alc8 propylene glycol

Alc9 methoxy PEG 750 ex Croda Chemicals Europe

Acids

UA1 maleic acid

UA2 fumaric acid

UA3 acrylic acid

UA4 methacrylic acid

Other NASS sodium styrene sulphonate, Spinomar NaSS ex Honeywill & Stein Ltd lniti 2,2'-azobis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride, Wako V50; Wako Chemicals USA

Test Methods

Acid Values (AV) were measured using a method based upon BS 684 Section 2.10 (1976) and results are quoted in mg(KOH).g" ^' ' (sample) Hydroxy! Values (OH) were measured using a method based upon BS 684 Section 2.9 (1976) and results are quoted in mg(KOH).g ^"' ' (sample) and are corrected for the contribution of acid OH groups Saponification Values (Sap) were measured using a method based upon BS 684 Section 2.6

(1976) and results are quoted in mg(KOH).g ^"' ' (sample) Copolymer colour (Gdnr) was measured with a Dr Lange LICO 400 Colorimeter using a method based upon BS 6782 Part 5 (1977) and results are given as Gardner units

Synthesis Examples

Example SE1 - Laneth 40 maleate / sodium polystyrene sulphonate copolymer

Aid (1360.7 g; 0.85 mol [based on the OH value of the AId]), UA1 (50.0 g; 0.43 mol) and hypophosphorous acid (8.5 g 50% w/w aqueous solution; 0.064 mol) were charged to a flanged flask and heated to 170 ⁰ C with stirring under nitrogen and water was distilled off until an acid value

of <10 mg(KOH).g" ^' ' was obtained. The reaction mixture was cooled to 65 ⁰ C to yield a mixture of mono- and di-(ethoxylated lanolin alcohol) esters of maleic acid.

A portion of this mixture of esters (96.0 g; ca 36 mmol) was dissolved in water (1073 g) at 8O ⁰ C and on complete dissolution, the solution temperature was reduced to 6O ⁰ C; the pH was adjusted to between 7.5 and 8.5 using aqueous NaOH (ca. 3.4 g of a 25% w/v solution); sodium styrene sulphonate (96.0 g; 430 mmol) added, followed by an aqueous solution of Initi (4.4 g dissolved in 84 g water) at an even rate over a three hour period maintaining the reaction temperature at 6O ⁰ C. The solution was stirred for a further hour, cooled to 5O ⁰ C, the pH adjusted to between 4.5 and 5.0 using aqueous HCI (ca. 2.2 g 28% w/v solution), allowed to cool to ambient temperature and was then filtered to give the product copolymer as a clear, yellow, viscous liquid solution.

Examples SE2 - SE13

Further synthesis Examples were carried out using the general method described in Example 1 but varying the acid and alcohol components of the unsaturated ester and the proportions of monomers in the copolymerisation. The materials and conditions used and the properties of the esters and copolymers are set out in Table SE1 below (including SE1 ):

Table SE1 below

Application Examples

Materials Polymers

Copolymers of the invention are designated by the respective SE Nos CPoH poly(sodium styrene sulphonate); Flexan Il ex National Starch

CPol2 vinyl pyrrolidone dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate copolymer; Styleze CC-10 ex ISP

Other ethanol DEB 100 ex Charles Tennant & Co

HEC aqueous hydroxyethyl cellulose solution (2% w/v); Natrasol ex Hercules Combing study protocol

The damage caused to tresses of test hair by straightening irons was assessed by measuring the force required to comb through a tress of hair (pre-tressed European brown hair) using the Dia- Stron MTT 175 Miniature Tensile Tester (Dia-Stron Ltd of Andover, Hampshire, UK ₁ SP10 5NY) as illustrated in Figure 1 using the following operating conditions: Standard Dia-Stron MTT 175 Operating Conditions

Range : 400.0 g (force)

Gauge : 0.0 g (force)

Speed : 120 mm.min" ^' '

Number of cycles 1 This instrument and method was developed for hair care applications and for the evaluation of efficacy of shampoos and conditioners. In the method a comb is driven through a tress of hair and the load required to achieve this is measured and peak forces and work done can be calculated. Referring to Figure 1 : a tress of hair (11 ) is clamped at one end into the machine (10) and a mechanical comb (12) is passed through the hair tress in the direction of arrow "A" whilst the force required to move the comb is measured by a measurement sensor (13).

The damage caused by heat treatments includes raising the cuticles on the individual hair fibres (as shown in Figures 2 and 3) causing friction between the fibres, therefore making it more difficult to comb and so increasing the force required to comb the hair.

Test Procedure Baselines data measurements

Separately each hair tress was slowly dipped into 2000ml of water (at ambient temperature) three times to allow it to regain its natural conformation; then squeezed through the fingers twice to remove excess water; combed using the Dia-Stron MTT 175, under the standard set of conditions, (detailed above), and the peak combing value and total work recorded. These steps were repeated a further two times to give three readings. The results were analysed to give the total work and peak combing force (averaged as "B").

Hair Treatment Procedure

Each test tress was sprayed 3 times on each side, whilst wet, with a test non-aerosol hair spray; combed through to ensure even coverage; blow dried for 3 minutes and combed through; then straightened for 30 seconds with the straightening irons held stationary, 90mm from the top of the tress.

Measurement

Each sprayed and dried tress was treated and measured as described for the baseline measurement above and the total work and peak combing force (averaged as "S") was recorded for a total of three runs. The effect of the treatment on increase in combing force after the heat treatment was calculated using Equation 1 (below) to give the average change in combing force as a percentage:

Average change in combing force = IS - B) X 100 % Equation 1

B

Where: S = the force required to comb the hair measured after straightening S = the baseline force measured before straightening

The average percentage change in combing force was calculated for each tress. 10 repeats of the procedure were carried out and the average percentage change in peak force and total work required to comb the hair for each product was calculated. The data was observed to be normally distributed and so was analysed using the parametric test, the unpaired student t-test to determine the statistical significance of the results.

Example AE1

Combing study to assess the heat protection properties of various polymers

A base aqueous/alcoholic non-aerosol hair spray formulation was made up by mixing the following components: wt %

Ethanol DEB 100 30

HEC (2% solution) 5

Triethanolamine to pH 6.0 Active under test qs (to provide 0.5% of active)

Water to 100

Tresses of European brown hair 15 mm wide and 240 mm long were cut and labelled. Each tress was washed with 10% aqueous sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) solution to ensure cleanliness. The test procedure was carried out using sprays as described above with no test active (AE1.Base) and copolymers SE1 (AE1.1 ) and SE11 (AE1.2); and polymers CPoH (AE1.C1 ) and CPol2

(AE1.C2) as test actives. The results, including p-values from significance testing, are shown in Table AE1 below.

Table AE1

The results show that tresses treated with the copolymer of SE1 or SE11 gave significantly lower increases in both total work and peak force in the combing study compared to the two commonly used polymeric cosmetic heat protection agents. This leads to the conclusion that the copolymers of SE1 and SE11 impart significantly more heat protection to hair during cosmetic use than the two comparison polymers.