Composition comprising at least two anionic surfactants, a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, and at least one antidandruff agent

The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least two different anionic surfactants, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one antidandruff agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using such a composition and also to a use of said composition.

In order to combat the formation of dandruff, many hair compositions containing one or more antidandruff agents have been proposed in the prior art.

However, these antidandruff hair compositions are not necessarily entirely satisfac- tory and can be further improved, especially as regards the deposition of the antidandruff agents onto the keratin fibres and the scalp in order to have optimum efficacy.

Moreover, the antidandruff hair compositions of the prior art are generally not entirely satisfactory as regards the foaming power and/or as regards the cosmetic properties, generally expected for compositions for washing keratin fibres.

There is thus a real need to develop antidandruff compositions for the hair intended for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres which are capable of giving the hair improved cosmetic properties, after one or more applications, without making the head of hair charged or lank, while at the same time maintaining good washing power, especially good foaming power (abundant foam, generated rapidly, of good quality) and satisfactory working qualities (ease of spreading of the composition on the hair, especially on wet hair, and good rinseability). This aim is achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is especially a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, which is especially intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:

(i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;

(ii) one or more anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants (i);

(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants;

(iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants; and

(v) one or more antidandruff agents.

It was found that the composition according to the invention has satisfactory foaming power. It allows the production of an abundant, rapidly-generated foam, which spreads easily on keratin fibres and is easy to remove on rinsing.

Certain users of shampoos, especially antidandruff shampoos, may have more or less sensitized hair, i.e. hair that is damaged or embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent- waving and/or relaxing. Thus, the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties imparted to the keratin fibres, especially to the hair, preferably sensitized hair. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the disentangling, the suppleness and also the feel of the hair, without a build-up effect.

Moreover, the compositions according to the invention have a sparingly aggressive nature, since their application to the hair fibre in the long run causes little damage associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of said fibre.

In addition, the composition according to the invention allows good deposition of antidandruff agents on keratin fibres and thus makes it possible to obtain improved antidandruff activity.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may impart cosmetic properties that are shampoo-resistant.

The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being stable on storage both at room temperature (20-25°C) and at 45°C, especially as regards its visual aspect and/or its viscosity.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" refers to a composition which, after two months of storage, shows no change in appearance, colour, odour, pH or viscosity.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is non-colouring.

According to the present invention, the term "non-colouring composition" means a composition not containing any keratin fibre dye such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, i.e. no colouring effect would be observed on the keratin fibres.

In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more", and may be replaced therewith.

Anionic surfactants

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid type (i) and at least one anionic surfactant (ii) other than the anionic surfactant(s) (i). Thus, for the purposes of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least two different anionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is termed "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

Polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids (i)

The composition of the invention contains at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in par- ticular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups.

The polyoxyalkylenatedalkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1 ):

^-(Ο0 ₂ Η ₄ )— OCH ₂ COOA ( )

in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8- C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,

preferably, R1 is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical,

- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, Ca or a monoethanolamine or triethano- lamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1 ), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R1 .

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that are particularly pre- ferred are those of formula (1 ) in which:

- R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (1 ) in which R1 denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

Use is preferably made of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanola- mine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

Akypo® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)

Akypo® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)

Akypo® OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)

Akypo® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)

Akypo® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)

Akypo® RLM 38 (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ )alkyl, n = 4, A = H)

Akypo® RLM 38 NV (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ )alkyl, n = 4, A = Na)

Akypo® RLM 45 CA (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci )alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)

Akypo® RLM 45 NV (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci )alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na)

Akypo® RLM 100 (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ )alkyl, n = 10, A = H)

Akypo® RLM 100 NV (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ )alkyl, n = 10, A = Na)

Akypo® RLM 130 (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ )alkyl, n = 13, A = H)

Akypo® RLM 160 NV (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci ₄ )alkyl, n = 16, A = Na)

or by the company Sandoz under the names:

Sandopan DTC-Acid (Ri = (Ci ₃ )alkyl, n = 6, A = H)

Sandopan DTC (Ri = (Ci ₃ )alkyl, n = 6, A = Na)

Sandopan LS 24 (Ri = (Ci ₂ -Ci )alkyl, n = 12, A = Na)

Sandopan JA 36 (Ri = (Ci ₃ )alkyl, n = 18, A = H),

and more particularly the products sold under the following names:

Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid)

Akypo® RLM 100

Akypo® RLM 38. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight and preferentially from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional anionic surfactants (ii)

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional anionic surfactant other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof (i) described above.

Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably sulfate groups.

The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function.

They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially pol- yoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycar- boxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglyco- side-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- acylglutamates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylgluta- mates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsar- cosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, in particular of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllac- tylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesul- fonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuc- cinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinat.es, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; where the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethyle- nated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuc- cinates;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function.

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; where the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethyle- nated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- alkyl sulfates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20,

- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium or calcium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanola- mine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferentially, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuc- cinates;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoylsar- cosinates;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglutamates;

- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Among the anionic surfactants (ii), use is preferably made of one or more sulfate anionic surfactants.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts. These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.

The anionic surfactants (ii) are preferably chosen among (C8-C14)alkyl sulfates and/or (C8-C14)alkyl ether sulfates, more preferably (C12-C14)alkyl sulfates and/or (C12-C14)alkyl ether sulfates, better still lauryl(ether)sulfates.

Sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (Ci2-Ci ₄ )alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci ₄ )alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyeth- ylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, are more preferably used. Better still, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci ₄ )alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, as sold under the name Texapon N702 by the company Cognis. The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5% to 18% by weight and better still from 4% to 15% by weight, even better still from 4.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the total content of anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) in the composition according to the invention is between 0.1 % and 35% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 25% by weight, and preferentially between 5% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants (iii)

The composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, chosen from:

(a) oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C40 alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;

(b) nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula: R1 O-(R2O)t-(G)v

in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4; and/or

(c ) polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C40 alkyl chain, preferably C10-C28 alkyl chain (fatty acid);

(d) fatty acid esters of sucrose, preferably comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C40 alkyl chain, preferably C10-C28 alkyl chain (fatty acid), such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose palmitate; and/or

(e ) polyglycerolated fatty esters, the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30 and comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C40 alkyl chain, preferably C10-C28 alkyl chain (fatty acid), such as polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an al- kyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Ce/Ci6 alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred. Among commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 1 10 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the com- pany BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or else the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.

Preferably, use is made of Cs/Ci6-alkyl (poly)glycosides 1 ,4, in particular as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

Preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C ₄ o, especially C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12); and

- (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glyco- sides.

Better still, the nonionic surfactants are preferentially chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, comprising from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two nonionic surfactants preferably chosen from oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, comprising from 2 to 50 and in particular from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 1 % to 20% by weight, preferentially ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 10%, and better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants (iv)

As indicated above, the composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably present in a total content of greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are non-silicone surfactants. They may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phospho- nate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobeta- ines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkyl- sulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (II) and (III) below: Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N ⁺ (Rb)(Rc)-CH ₂ COO-, M ⁺ , X ^" (II)

in which:

- R _a represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

- M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

- X ^" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-

C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M ⁺ and X ^" are absent;

Ra'-CONHCH ₂ CH2-N(B)(B') (III)

in which:

- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

- B' represents the group with z = 1 or 2;

- X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or -CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

- Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';

- Z' represents a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine; - R _a ' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a -COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a Ci7 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, diso- dium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoam- phodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropi- onate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and co- coamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ^® C2M Concentrate.

Use may also be made of compounds of formula (IV):

R _a -N HCH (Y")-(CH2)nCON H(CH ₂ )n-N(Rd)(Re) (IV)

in which:

- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z";

- Rd and R _e represent, independently of each other, a Ci to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

- Ra- represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Mention may be made, among the compounds of formula (II), of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoas- partamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (Cs- C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of for- mula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs-C2o)al- kylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Antidandruff agents

The antidandruff agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

1 ) pyridinethione salts, especially the calcium, magnesium, barium, stron- tium, zinc, cadmium, tin and zirconium salts. The zinc salt of pyridinethione is particularly preferred.

The zinc salt of pyridinethione is sold especially under the name Omadine zinc by the company Arch Personal Care or Zinc Pyrithione.

2) 1 -hydroxy-2-pyrrolidone derivatives represented especially by the formula: in which:

- R9 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, an alkenyl group containing from 2 to 17 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyi group containing from 5 to 8 carbon atoms, a bicycloalkyl group containing from 7 to 9 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyi (-alkyl) group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group with an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an arylalkenyl group with an alkenyl containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, aryloxyalkyl or arylmercaptoalkyl with an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a furylalkenyl group with an alkenyl or a furyl containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a nitro group, a cyano group or a halogen atom; preferably, R9 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, an alkenyl group containing from 2 to 17 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1 -C4 alkyl group, a C2-C4 alkenyl group, a halogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group; preferably, R10 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1 -C4 alkyl group or a C2-C4 alkenyl group;

- X represents an organic base, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal ion or an ammonium ion.

Among the compounds included in this formula, examples that may be mentioned include 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy- 4,6-dimethyl-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-cyclohexyl-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(methylcyclo- hexyl)-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2-bicyclo[2,2,1 ]heptyl)-2-pyridone, 1 -hy- droxy-4-methyl-6-(4-methylphenyl)-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-[1 -(4-nitro- phenoxy)butyl]-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(4-cyanophenoxymethyl)-2-pyri- done, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(phenylsulfonylmethyl)-2-pyridone and 1 -hydroxy-4- methyl-6-(4-bromobenzyl)-2-pyridone. These compounds may be used in the form of salts with organic or mineral bases. Examples of organic bases are especially alkanolamines of low molecular weight such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, N-ethylethanolamine, triethanolamine, di- ethylaminoethanol and 2-amino-2-methylpropanediol; non-volatile bases such as ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylamine, benzylamine and N- methylpiperazine; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, such as trimethylbenzyl hydroxide; guanidine and derivatives thereof, and particularly alkyl derivatives thereof. Examples of mineral bases are especially salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium; salts of an alkaline-earth metal such as magnesium or calcium; ammonium salts; salts of di-, tri- or tetravalent cationic metals, such as zinc, aluminium or zirconium.

Alkanolamines, ethylenediamine and mineral bases such as alkali metal salts are preferred.

A compound that is particularly preferred is the one for which R10 denotes a methyl, R9 denotes the CH3-C(CH3)2-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- radical, and X+ denotes H3N ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH.

This compound is sold, for example, under the name Octopirox (1 -hydroxy-4-me- thyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-pyridone, monoethanolamine salt) by the company Hoechst (INCI name: Piroctone Olamine).

3) 2,2'-dithiobis(pyridine N-oxide) of formula:

These compounds may be introduced into the compositions in the form of mineral salts. An example of a mineral salt is magnesium sulfate.

4) the trihalocarbamides especially having the following formula:

in which Z represents a halogen atom such as chlorine or a C1 -C4 trihaloalkyl group such as CF3.

5) triclosan, represented by the formula:

6) azole compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrimazole, econa- zole, isoconazole and miconazole. 7) selenium sulfides, in particular those of formula SxSe8-x, with x ranging from 1 to 7.

8) extracts of one or more non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria.

The bacterial extracts that may be used according to the invention will preferably be chosen from non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria as defined according to the classification in Bergey's Manual of Systemic Bacteriology, volume 3, section 23, 9th edition 1989.

Among the bacteria that may be used, mention will be made more particularly of bacteria belonging to the order Beggiatoales, and especially bacteria belonging to the genus Beggiotoa, for instance various strains of Beggiotoa alba. According to the definition, B. alba corresponds to the former names Beggiotoa arachnoidea, B. gigantea, B. leptomiformis, B. minima and B. mirabilis of Bergey's manual, 8th edition. Mention may moreover be made of bacteria belonging to the genus Vitreoscilla, which is known to be close to and often difficult to distinguish from the genus Beg- giatoa. The bacteria that have just been defined, and several of which have been described, generally have an aquatic habitat, and may be found especially in spring water sources.

Among the bacteria that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of Vitre- oscilla beggiatoides (ATCC 43181 ) and Beggiatoa alba (ATCC33555), and preferentially, the extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis, in particular the strain ATCC 15551 , metabolites thereof and fractions thereof.

Moreover, it is known that culturing non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is relatively difficult, as is the production of pure cultures. Use will preferen- tially be made of the culture described in patent application WO 94/02158.

The term "extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria" means not only the culture supernatant but also the biomass obtained after culturing the said bacteria, the envelopes or envelope fractions, or the extracts of the biomass obtained by treating this biomass.

To prepare the extract according to the invention, said bacteria can be cultured and then separated from the biomass obtained, for example by filtration, centrifugation, coagulation and/or lyophilization.

The extracts that may be used may especially be prepared according to the process described in patent application WO-A-93/00741 . Thus, after culturing, the bacteria are concentrated by centrifugation. The biomass obtained is autoclaved. This biomass may be lyophilized to constitute what is known as the lyophilized extract. Any lyophilization method known to those skilled in the art may be used to prepare this extract.

The supernatant fraction of this biomass may also be filtered in a sterile container to remove the particles in suspension.

The terms "envelopes" and "envelope fractions" refer herein to the bacterial wall and possibly the subjacent membranes. 9) antifungal polymers such as amphotericin B or nystatin.

10) other antidandruff agents are sulfur in its various forms, cadmium sulfide, allantoin, coal or wood tars and derivatives thereof, in particular cade oil, salicylic acid, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid; ellagic acid, ethers thereof, ellagic acid salts and ethers thereof; ellagic acid tannins, and allylamines such as terbinafine.

Zinc pyridinethione (1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-pyridone) and salts thereof, ellagic acid and salts thereof, and selenium sulfides are particularly preferred.

Preferably, the antidandruff agent is soluble in the composition of the invention at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Even more preferentially, it is soluble in water at a concentration of greater than or equal to 0.2% at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The antidandruff agents (v) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers

The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more cationic polymers, preferably with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 milliequiva- lents/gram (meq/g).

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar propor- tion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x10 ⁶ approximately and preferably between 10 ³ and 3x10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:

(1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae: 3 ^{3 3}

CH ₂ — c— — CCHH ₂₉ -- -Cc— ^CH 2 c— — CH ₂ — C—

₁ - I

1 I

O=C n O== =rc. 0= c O=C

I

I ₁ 1

O ό O NNHH NH

I

X- I

A A A A

1

N R— NN++-R _R NN RR ₄ —— NN—— ^R I 6

\

\

R ₂ ^R i RR ₅₅ R R ₂ R ₅ in which:

- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R ₄ , R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1 -C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1 ), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573;

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the copolymers sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,

- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C ₄ )alkyltri(Ci-C ₄ )al- kylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymeriza- tion of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxy- ethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dis- persion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopoly- mer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cel- lulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol . These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacry- loylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dime- thyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia. (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxy- alkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldia- mine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene pol- yamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldial- kylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxy- propyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the di- carboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1 .4:1 ; the resulting polyamino- amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1 .8:1 . Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.

(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the ho- mopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): 1 ₂ )-CH ₂ -

-(CH ₂ )t-

(I)

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;

- Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Ci-C ₄ amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and Rn may de- note, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a Ci-C ₄ alkyl group;

- Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldial- lylammonium salts (for example chloride) for example sold under the name Mer- quat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

13 R,5

in which: - Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, ali- cyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hy- droxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,

or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

or else R13, Ri4, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- Ai and Bi represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hy- droxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(Ch Ch OJx-Ch Ch - and -[CH ₂ CH(CH3)O]y-CH ₂ CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-

S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which Ri, R2, R3 and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X ^" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is the one for which Ri , R2, Rs and R ₄ represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = CI, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

^18 R ₂₀

— N+ - (CH ₂ ) _r - NH - CO - (CH ₂ ) _q - CO - NH (CH ₂ ) _S - N+ - A—

R19 (V) _x _ ₂₁

in which:

- R18, Ri9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or - Ch Ch iOCh Ch JpOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

- X ^" denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH ₂ -.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(1 1 ) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

— CH ₂ — CH—

NH ₂ (A)

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below: — CHk— CH—

² I (B)

NH— C-H

I I

O

In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).

These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylfor- mamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

The weight-average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.

The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010. Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyeth- yleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1 ), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.

Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic gal- actomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclo- polymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homo- polymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Mer- quat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vi- nylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylo- yloxy(C1 -C4)alkyltri(C1 -C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric polymers

The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more amphoteric polymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amphoteric polymer" denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups. The amphoteric polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,

(ii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and

(iii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer.

Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer are units of structure (la) below:

in which Ri denotes H or Chb and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert- butylamino, dodecylamino and -NH-CH2OH radical.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (la).

The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type are units of structure (I la) below:

in which: - R3 denotes H or CH3,

- R ₄ denotes a group (Ch jk, with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;

- R5, R6 and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C ₄ alkyl,

- Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (lla).

Among these units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer of formula (lla), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R ₇ denote a methyl radical, and Y ^~ denotes a chloride anion. Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type are units of formula (Ilia):

in which Rs denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or an -NH-C(CH3)2- CH2-SO3H radical.

The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.

Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula

(Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.

The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide- type monomer.

The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.

The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),

- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and

- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).

Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrial- kylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer as described above.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).

Mention may be made, as an example of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpol- ymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.

As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by Nalco.

The amphoteric polymer(s) may generally be present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- one or more anionic surfactants (i) chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably of formula (I) as defined above;

- one or more anionic surfactants (ii) chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C12-C14)alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (C12-C14)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide;

- one or more nonionic surfactants in a total content of at least 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C40, especially C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain and from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide; and

- (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides;

- one or more amphoteric surfactants, in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one or more surfactants chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (Cs-C2o)alkyl- amido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines;

- one or more direct dyes, preferably chosen, alone or as mixtures, from anionic direct dyes;

- optionally, one or more cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, preferentially chosen from dialkyldiallylammo- nium halide homopolymers; and

- optionally, one or more amphoteric polymers preferably constituted solely of units derived from monomers (i) of acrylamide type, (ii) of acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.

The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of wa- ter and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci-C ₄ alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 20% and 95% by weight, preferably between 30% and 90%, preferentially between 50% and 85% by weight and better still between 65% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; C12-C32 fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; min- eral, plant or synthetic oils; vitamins or provitamins; nonionic or anionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preserving agents; dyes; fragrances; agents for preventing hair loss, anti-seborrhoeic agents.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used as shampoos for washing and conditioning the hair; they are preferably applied in this case to wet hair in amounts that are effective for washing it; the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands may then be removed, after an optional leave-on time, by rinsing with water, the operation possibly being repeated one or more times.

Process and use according to the invention

Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition as defined above, followed by an optional leave-on time and/or rinsing and/or drying.

The composition may be applied to wet or dry hair, and preferably to wet or moist hair.

According to one embodiment, the process consists in applying to keratin fibres an effective amount of the composition according to the invention, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibres, and rinsing. The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 15 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 5 minutes. The composition is generally rinsed out with water.

An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human ker- atin fibres such as the hair.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

Compositions (% AM)

A B C D

Sodium Laureth Sulfate 7 7 7 7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 7 7 7 7

Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 6 6 6 6

Laureth-12 4 4 4 4

Laureth-4 1 1 1 1

Polyquaterniunn-6 0.5 1 1 1

Polyquaternium-53 0.25 0.5 0.5 0.5

Hexylene glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Piroctone olamine 0.5 0.5 - -

Selenium sulfide - - 1 -

Zinc pyrithione - - - 2

Menthol - 0.1 0.1 0.1

Preserving agents qs qs qs qs pH agent qs pH 4.6 qs pH 4.6 qs pH 4.6 qs pH 4.6

Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100%

The compositions according to the invention may be used as antidandruff shampoos. 1 g of composition was applied to 2.5 g locks of natural hair, and the locks were then rinsed and dried. It was found that the locks thus treated had good conditioning properties, especially a soft, smooth feel; the hair is easy to disentangle, in particular on wet hair.