Composition Com prising Surfactants and Hydrophilic Active I ngredients TECHNICAL FIE LD

The invention relates to a composition, in particular a composition for making up/caring for the keratin materials in form of a nano- or micro-emulsion. The invention also relates to a method for making up/caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin , using said composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE I NVENTION

Facial oil, especially facial oils containing active ingredients are of a great interest of the consumers, due to its nourishing effect as veil as its transparent or slightly translucent appearance. Conventionally two types of facial oils e ist on the market.

One is anhydrous facial oils with no water or aqueous solution. The products as such bring to the skin various nourishing effect thanks to the oils and the active ingredients. However, it has the drawback of lacking stability and lacking transparency when incorporating water or hydrophilic active ingredients to the products. Besides, due to its high am ount of oils, it causes uncomfortable feeling, such as oily as well as shiny after application , which is not desirable to the consumers.

The other type of the conventionally available faical oil is makeup removers containing oils, surfactants, as well as active ingredients. It possesses a pleasant transparent appearance as well as good makeup rem oving effect . However, it m ay cause skin irritation issue due to the high level of surfactants. Besides, there also remainsthe problem of oily feeling after application. A fine emulsion such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil nano- or micro-emulsion is particularly interesting in cosmetic products due to its transparent or slightly translucent aspect . These em ulsions have an aqueous or oily phase in form of very small droplets, i.e., of droplets less than 4 μτη in size .

These emulsions can be prepared in particular by the phase inversion tem erature technique (PIT emulsions), in which the average size of the globules constituting the oily phase is within given limits, namely between 0.1 and 4 (100 to 4000 nm ). The principle of phase inversion tern perature (or PIT) em ulsifi cation is, in theoretical term s, well known to those skilled in the art; it was described in 1 968 by K . Shinoda (J. Chem . Soc. Jpn., 1968, 89, 435). It was shown that this em unification technique makes it possible to obtain stable fine emulsions (K. Shinoda and H . Saito, J. Colloid Interface Sd ., 1969, 30, 258). This technology was applied in cosmetics as early as 1972 by Mitsui et al . ("Application of the phase-inversion-temperature method to the em unification of cosmetics"; T . Mitsui, Y. Machida and F . Harusawa, American. Cosmet . P erfum , 1 972, 87 ,33). The principle of this technique is as follows: an O/W emulsion (introduction of the aqueous phase into the oily phase) is prepared at a tem perature that should be greater than the phase inversion temperature of the system , i.e. the temperature at which the equilibrium between the hydrophilic and lipophilic properties of the em ulsifier(s) used is attained; at higher temperature, i .e. greater than the phase inversion tem erature (> P IT), the emulsion is of water-in-oil type and , as it cools, this emulsion inverts at the phase inversion tem erature so as to become an em ulsion of oil-in-water type , having beforehand passed through a state of micro emulsion. This process makes it possible to readily obtain emulsions with a diameter generally less than 4 μιτι . E mulsifying surfactants of the water-in-oil type conventionally used have an HLB (HLB = hydrophilic lipophilic balance) of less than 8. These emulsifiers, due to their amphiphilic structure, are situated at the oil phase/aqueous phase interface, and thus stabilize the dispersed oil dropl ts.

However, it is difficult to produce fine water-in-oil emulsions containing aqueous phase, and meanwhile remaining good transparent appearance, since such emulsions have a tendency become opaque or to destabilize, this destabilization resulting in coalescence and separation of the aqueous and oily phases. In order to improve the stability of these emulsions, the concentration of emulsifiers can be increased; however, a high concentration of emulsifiers can result in a rough, dingy or sticky feel , and in problems of innocuity with respect to the skin , the eyes and the scalp.

Therefore there exists a need for a stable composition that possesses a pleasant transparent appearance, and meanwhile exhibits improved comfort after application.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVE NTION

The above mentioned need can be met by a composition comprising two surfactants and hydrophilic active ingredients.

More s ecifically, one subject of the present invention is a composition comprising at least one fatty phase, and:

at least one first em ulsifier chosen from pol oxylalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester with a HLB of less than 7;

at least one second emulsifier, different from the first emulsifier, chosen from:

a) at least one mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms;

b) at least one oxy ethyl enated non-ionic surfactant , different from a);

c) or a mixture thereof; and at least one hydro philic active ingredient.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is an emulsion, in particular a nano-, or micro-emulsion.

P referably, the com position of the present invention is a water-in-oil nano- or micro-emulsion. According to a preferred em odiment, the present invention is transparent.

The composition of the present invention has a dispersed phase which has a median partide size by volume , i .e., less than 4 μτι , or less than 300 nm , preferably from 1 0 nm to 180 nm , more preferably from 20 nm to 1 50 nm . The composition as such can be in the form of a nano- or micro -em ulsion possessing a pleasant transparent appearance, thout any instability or phase separation.

Furthermore, the com position as such provides an improved comfort after application, i .e., comfortable feeling after application and good penetration, instead of oily and shiny skin feelings that may be caused by the conventional products.

The other subject of the present invention is a method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, , for example the skin, the hair, and the nails, in particular the skin, preferably the face and the lips, com prising a step of applying to the skin the composition in accordance wth the invention.

The "micro-emulsion" m ay be defined in two ways, nam ely, in a broader sense and in a narrower sense. That is to say, there are one case ('hi icroem ulsion in the narrow sense") in which the microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients of an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant , and the other case ('micro-emulsion in the broad sense") in which am ong therm odynam ically unstable typical em ulsion system s the m icroem ulsion additionally includes those such emulsions presenting transparent or translucent appearances due to their smaller partide sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al.,Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 1 1 (1988), pp. 48- 53). The "micro-emulsion" as used herein refers to a "micro -em ulsion in the narrowsense," i .e., a therm odynam ically stable isotropic single liquid phase.

The micro-emulsion refers to either one state of an OIW (oil -in- water) type microemulsion in which oil is solubilized by m icelles, a IO (wster-in-oil) type microemulsion in which water is solubilized by reverse m icelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules are rendered infinite so that both the aqueous phase and oil phase have a continuous strudure.

The "nano-emulsion" here m eans an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase wth a size of less than 350 nm , the dispersed phase being stabilized by a crown of the (b) nonionic surfadant that m ay optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type , at the dispersed phase/continuous phase interface. In the absence of spedfic opacifiers, the transparency of the nano-emulsions arises from the small size of the dispersed phase, this sm all size being obtained by virtue of the use of mechanical energy and especially a high -pressure hom ogeniier. Manoemulsions can be distinguished from microem ulsions by their strudure. Specifically, micro-emulsions are therm odynamically stable dispersions form ed from , for example, the (b) nonionic surfactant micells swollen with the (a) oil . Furthermore, m icroemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy in order to be prepared.

The composition according to the present invention m ay be in the form of an OA V nano- or micro-emulsion, a W/O nano- or micro-emulsion or a bicontinuous emulsion.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of a water- in-oil nano- or m icro-emulsion.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention being in the form of water-in-oil emulsion, and the water or aqueous phase be in the form of a droplet or globule with a median particle size by volume Dv50 of 300 nm or less, preferably from 1 0 nm to 30 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 50 nm .

The median partide size by volume Dv50 is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the m aximum partide diameter below which 50% of the sample volume easts (see in A Basic Guide To Particle haracterization, page 1 0,

htt p: //goli k .co .i l/D ata/ABasi oG ui dtoP articleC ha racterization(2)_1 9320851 50.pdf) .

The mean size by volume of the droplets of aqueous phase is m easured using a Malvern Nano

ΖΞ 90 particle sizer (sold by Malvern Instruments). These measurements are carried out on the composition of the present invention (non-diluted). A computer program makes it possible to obtain the median particle size by volum e DvSO (see Zetasizer Nano Series User Manual ,

Malvern Instruments, MAN0317 Issue 2.1 July 2004, htt p: /½ wn btc.cornell .edu/fa dl iti es/d o n loads/Zetasizer%20M anu al .pdf).

The median particle size by volume DvSO of the droplets of aqueous phase of the composition of the invention is 300 nm or less, preferably from 1 0 nm to 1 80 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 150 nm .

The com position according to the present invention can have a transparent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

The transparency may be measured by measuring the transmittance with absorption spedrometer in the visible region (for example, transparency was measured with a V-550 (JASCO) wrth a 10 mm width cell as an average of visible light transmittance (between 400 and 800 nm). The measurem ent is taken on the undiluted composition. The blank is determined with distilled water.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention m ay preferably have a

transmittance greater than 80%, preferably greater than 85%, more preferably greater than 90%, and even more preferably greater than 95%, using the visible light wrth a wavelength of 700 nm . The term HLB ("hydro hilic-lipophi lie balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotesthe hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant.

The HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the su factant^s) used according to the invention is the HLB according to Griffin, defined in the publication J . Soc. Cosm . Chem ., 1 954 (Vol 5), pages 249-256 or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the publication from the authors F . P uisieux and M . Seiller, entitled 'Oalenica 5: Les systemes disperses [Dispersed systems] - Volume I - gents de surface et emulsions [Surface a ents and emulsions] - Chapter IV - Motions de HLB et de HLB critique [Motions of HLB and of critical HLB], pages 1 53-1 94 - paragraph 1 .1 .2. Determination de HLB par voie experimental [Experimental determination of HLB], pages 1 64-180.

The term "keratin material" according to the invention is intended to m ean the skin and the hair. By "skin", we intend all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the skin, in particular the face and the li s.

DETAILED DESC I PTIOM OF THE IMVEMTIOM

The present invention relatesto a com position comprising two surfactants and hydrophilic active ingredients.

More specifically, one subject of the present invention is a composition comprising at least a fatty phase, and:

at least one first em ulsifier chosen from polyoxylalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester with a HLB of less than 7;

at least one second emulsifier, different from the first emulsifier, chosen from:

a) at least one mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms;

b) at least one oxy ethyl enated non-ionic surfactant , different from a);

c) or a mixture thereof; and

at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.

Fatty phase The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

P referably, the fatty phase of the present invention is a continuous phase.

The fatty phase of the present invention comprises at least one oil.

The term 'tail" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ⁿ C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The fatty phase(s) that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon -based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention com prises hydrocarbon-based oils.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term 'non-volatile oil" means oil that remains on the keratin m aterials, especially the skin and the lips at room tem perature (20-25"C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More specifically, non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0 .01 mg/cm ^z /rnin.

To measure this evaporation rate, 1 5 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m ³ that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25 ⁿ C , and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by m eans of a fan (Papst-M otoren, reference 8550 N , rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said oil mi>dure, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of said oil or oil m ixture remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm ^) and per unit of time (minute).

The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips in less than one hour, at room tem perature (20-25"C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm ² Anin, lim its included.

For the purposes of the present invention , the term "silicone oil" means oil comprising at least one silicon atom , and especially at least one Si-0 group.

As silicone oils, m ention may be made of

linear or cyclic volatiles oils, especially those with a viscosity of lessthan or equal to 8 centi stokes (cSt) (8 χ 10 ^"s m¾), and especially containing from 2 to 1 0 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 1 0 carbon atoms; of linear or cydic non-volatile poly dim ethylsiloxanes (P DMS][ polydim ethyl si loxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;

- phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethi cones, phenyl dim ethicones, phenyl trim ethyl si loxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dim ethicones, diphenyl m ethyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenyl ethyl trim ethyl siloxy silicates,

- and mixtures thereof .

In a particular embodim ent, mentions may be m ade, of the silicone oils, such as cyclohexasiloxane which is available under the tradem ark , for example, KF-996 sold by the company Shin Etsu , or Xiameter* PMX-0246 sold by the com pany Dow Corning , or dimethicones which is available under the trademark Xiam eter* PMX-200 silicone fluid 5cs, Xiameter* PMX-200 silicone fluid 350cs, or Xiameter* PMX-200 silicone fluid 10cs sold by the company Dow Corning.

The term "fluoro oil" means oil comprising at least one fluorine atom .

The fluoro oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP -A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.

According to the invention, the term 'perfluoro compounds" means com pounds in which all the hydrogen atom s have been replaced with fluorine atoms.

According to one particularly preferred em bodim ent, the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.

As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mentions may be m ade of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow* products sold by the company Creations Couleurs. I n particular, use m ay be made of the fluoro oil for which the INCI name is P erfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chem icals. The term 'hydrocarbon-based oil" means oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen , nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

As hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be made of

hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, for example Beta-carotene sold under the tradename Betatene 30% OLV by Cognis (BASF), Simm ondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil sold under the tradename Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale , Rosa Canina Fruit Oil sold under the tradenam e Rosehip Seed Oil by Nestle World Trade Co. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,

synthetic ethers containing from 1 0 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthetic esters, for example Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride sold under the tradename Myritol* 3 8 by Cognis (BASF), Isononyl Isononanoate sold under the tradename Isononanoate D'isononyle by Stearinerie Dubois, Dicaprylyl Carbonate sold under the tradename Cetiol* CC by Cognis (BASF¾

fatty alcohols that are liquid at room tem erature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 2 to 26 carbon atom s,

C iz-Czz higher fatty acids, and

mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based oil is hydrocarbon -based plant oils, synthetic esters, or a mixture thereof.

P referably, the composition may comprise a fatty phase presenting in the composition in an am ount of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

First emulsifier

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first emulsifier chosen from polyoxylalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester. The em ulsifier has a HLB value (hyd oph ili (^hydrophobic balance) of less than 7, according to Griffin's method, at the tem perature of 25 "C.

The polyoxylalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester is, in particular, a block polymer, preferably of Formula (1 ):

ABA Formula (1 )

wherein ,

A is pol fhydroxylated acid) block , and B is poly( ethylene oxide) block.

According to a preferred embodiment, A is a poly(hydroxylated acid) block chosen from the compound of Form ula (2):

RCO- Formula (2)

wherein R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain comprising C _1z to C _m carbon atoms, substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

Preferably R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain comprising C _u to C _1Ξ carbon atoms, substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

According to a preferred embodiment, the block A is hydroxystearic acid, for example 12- hydroxystearicacid.

According to an embodiment, B is a poly( ethylene oxide) block comprising from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxi e.

Preferably, B contains from 20 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide.

More preferably, B is a polyf ethylene oxide) block containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

Mentions may be made of the 30 OE polyethylene glycol di-polyhydroxystearate (INCI name P EG-30 dipolyhydro ystearate) sold underthe trade name Arlacel P 135 by the company ICI . Advantageously, according to the present invention, the composition comprises from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.25% to 2.5% by weight of the first em ulsifier, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

Second emulsifier

The composition of the present invention comprises at least a second emulsifier, which is different from the first emulsifier.

The second emulsifier, according to the present invention is chosen from:

a) at least one mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms;

b) at least one oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant, different from a);

c) or a mixture thereof.

Mono- or polyoxyet ylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated C _A -C _R alcohols

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms. The term "mono- or olyoxyethylenated alcohol" is intended to m ean an alcohol com prising one or more -CH^-CH^-O- groups. The term "mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol" is intended to mean an alcohol comprising one or m ore -CH^-CHCCHJ-O- groups.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol(s) comprising from 1 to 8 cartoon atoms are chosen from the compounds of Formula (3) below

R, - (0-CH(CH _H )-CH ₂ ) _m - (0-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n - OH Formula (3) in which:

Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

m represents a num er (average value) ranging from 1 to 300; and

n represents a num ber (average value) ranging from 1 to 300;

m + n being greater than 6.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, Ri represents a saturated linear alkyl radical com prising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

According to another particular em bodim ent of the invention, m is between 20 and 30; preferably between 22 and 28, and n is between 20 and 30 , prefera ly between 22 and 28. According to one preferred embodiment, the mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol (s) comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atom s are chosen from butyl alcohols oxyethylenated and o xypropylen ated wth 20 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and wth 20 to 30 m ol of propylene oxide, preferably oxyethylenated (26 E O), oxypropylenated (26 PO) butyl alcohol (IN CI name: PPG-26-Buteth-26).

O yethylenated non-ionic surfactant

The composition in accordance wth the invention comprises at least one oxyethylenated non- ionic surfactant other than the mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohols as previously defined.

The term "oxyethylenated surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant com prising -CHz-CHz-O- groups.

The surfactants have an HLB ranging from 1 3 to 20 and more particularly from 1 4 to 17 , according to Griffin's m ethod, at the temperature of 25 "C .

The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the context of the invention are, for example, chosen from triglycerides oxyethylenated with 20 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide and preferably with 30 to 80 mol of ethylene oxide, and more particularly from hydrogenated castor oils oxyethylenated wth 30 to 70 mol of ethylene oxide.

The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the context of the invention may in particular be chosen from oxyeth lenated (60 EO) hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: P EG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) and oxyethylenated (40 EO) hydrogenated castor oil (INCI nam e: PE G-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil).

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, for the mono- or poly oxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atom s and the oxyeth lenated non-ionic surfactant wth an HLB ranging from 3 to 20, the combination of a polyoxyethylenated and pol oxypropylenated alcohol com prising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a butyl alcohol oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated wth 20 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and wth 20 to 30 mol of propylene oxide, and more particularly oxyethylenated (26 EO), oxypropylenated (26 PO) butyl alcohol , with a triglyceride oxyethylenated with 20 to 1 00 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably with 30 to 80 mol of ethylene oxide, and more particularly a hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated wth 30 to 70 mol of ethylene oxide, is chosen. Mention may, for example, be made of the product sold under the name Solubilisant LRI by the company Sensient.

P referably, the com osition of the present invention com rise from 0.001 % to 1 % by W3ight, preferably from 0.002% to 0.5% by weight , more preferably from 0.002% to 0.2% by weight of the second emulsifier, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the first and the second em ulsifier is from 5 to 50, preferably from 1 0 to 40, more preferably from 1 5 to 30, and even more preferablythe ratio is 20.

Hydrophilic active ingjedi ent

The composition of the present invention com prises at least one hydrophilic active ingredient . The term "hydrophilic active ingredient" refers to the active ingredients which are soluble in water at least 0.001 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.

The hydrophilic active ingredients can be in form of a liquid or an aqueous solution.

As the aforementioned hydrophilic active ingredients, it is possible to use conventionally used hydrophilic active ingredients, such as antioxidants, free radical scavengers, moisturizing agents, melanin regulators, tanning accelerators, depigm enting agents, skin -coloring agents, liporegulators, thinning agents (amincissants), anti-acne agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti- ageing agents, anti-winkle agents, anti-UV agents (such as benzene-1 ,4-di(3- m ethyl idenecamph or- 10-sulphonic) acid), keratolytic agents, anti -inflammatory agents, refreshing agents (refraichissants), cicatrizing agents, vascular protectors, antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, immunom odulators, nutrients, anti-dandruff agents, essential oils and perfum es.

P referably, the hydrophilic active ingredient is chosen from hydro hilic plant extracts.

In an em bodiment, m entions may be m ade in particular, the hydrophilic plant extracts, such as cordyceps sinensis mushroom extract, which is, for example , sold under the tradenam e Cordyceps E ract 1 2% by Blue California Co, Citrus Lim on (Lemon) Fruit E >dract, which is, for example, sold under the tradename Secrets De Citron by Gattefosse, Ganoderma Lucidum E xtract, which is, for example, sold under the tradename Ganoderma E xtract BG by Maruien, Glycerin and Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, which is, for example, sold under the tradenam e P urisoft ^™ POE L S 9726 by Labo. Serobiologiques (BASF), Prunum Yedoensis Leaf E xtract, which is, for example , sold underthe tradename Sakura Extract B by lchimaru P harms, or a mixture thereof.

P referably, the hydrophilic acti e ingredient is hydrophilic plant extracts.

P referably, cordyceps sinensis mushroom extract is used in the com position of the present invention.

Advantageously, according to the present invention , the composition com prises less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 % to 1 .5% by weight of the hydrophilic active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the com osition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase according to the present invention is preferably a dispersed phase, more preferably in the form of droplets or globules.

More preferably the m edian particle size by volume Dv50 of the aqueous droplets or globules is less than 300 nm , preferably from 1 0 nm to 180 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 150 nm . The aqueous phase m ay be formed exclusively by the hydrophilic active ingredients of the present invention.

The aqueous droplets or globules m ay contain water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-m iscible organic solvents (at room tem perature of 20-25"C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri ropylene glycol (Ci-CJalkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri ethylene glycol (C^- Jalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than 40%, more preferably from 0.05% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Galenic form

The composition according to the invention is in form of an emulsion, such as a water-in-oil em ulsion, or oil-in-water emulsion.

More particularly, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano-or micro-emulsion.

The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O AV nano- or micro-emulsion, a W/O nano-or micro-emulsion or a bicontinuous emulsion.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of a water- in-oil nano- or m icro-em ulsion.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention being in the form of water-in-oil nano- or micro-emulsion, and the water or aqueous phase be in the form of a droplet or globule with a m edian particle size by volume Dv50 of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 nm to 180 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 150 nm .

The composition according to the present invention can have a transparent appearance.

According to an emboditnent, the cosmetic com osition according to the present invention may preferably have atransmittance greater than 80%, preferably greaterthan 85%, more preferably greater than 90%, and even more preferably greaterthan 95%, using the visible light with a wavelength of 700 nm .

Adcftiues

In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention further com rises at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, additional oils, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, resins, additional surfactants, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, disperse nts, additional antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, stabilizers, neutralizes, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention comprises a com bination of preserving agents. The combination com prises:

a) aromatic alcohol; and

b) caprylyl glycol.

the term "aromatic alcohor means any compound that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one entity chosen from benzene and naphthalene rings and at least one alcohol function (OH) directly linked to the ring or linked to at least one substrtuent of the ring. Examples of aromatic alcohols that may be used in the composition include, but are not limited to: benzyl alcohol, benzoyltsopro anol. benzyl glycol, phenoxyeth nol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, methylphenylbutanol, phenoxyisopropanol, phenylisohexanol, phenylpropanol, phenylethyl alcohol, and mrxtu res thereof.

Preferably the aromatic alcohol is phenoxyethanol.

For the purpose of the present invention, the aromatic alcohol, in particular phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol are formulated in a ratio wherein ph noxyethanol/caprylyl glycol is from 5 to 05, more preferably, the ratio of phenoxyethanol/ca rylyl glycol is 2 to 1.

For the purpose of the invention, the composition comprises less than or equal to 1 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 0.8% by weight of the preserving agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance wth the invention such that the desired cosm etic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

Method and use

The composition of the present invention can be used for a non4heraputic process, such as a cosm etic process or m ethod, for making up/caring for the keratin m aterials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, especially the face and the lips. The present invention also relatesto a use of the composition according to the present invention, as it is or in cosmetic product for making up/caring for/deansing/make up removing products for the skin, especially forthe face and the lips.

The exam pies that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention. EXAMPLES

E xample 1: formulation example

The following formulas were prepared (inv fla stands for invention formula, and compa fla stands for comparati e formula):

Phase IHO name % of ingredient by actiue ingredient (wt%)

Inv fla 1 Inv fla 2 Inv fla 3 Compa Com a fla 1 fla 2

A1 I sono nyl/l sono nanoate , 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00

WICKENOL 151 (ALZO)

Tocopherol, DL ALPHA 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 TOCOPHEROL

(10410276) (DS

NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS)

Dicaprylyl Carbonate , 30.00 30.00 30 30 30

CETIOL ^e CC(COGNIS

(BASF))

Caprylic/Capric OS 100 OS 100 OS 100 OS 100 OS 100 Triglyceride, MYRITOL*

318 (COGNIS)

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 ROSEHIP SEED OIL TYPE C (NESTLE

WORLD TRADE CORPORATION)

Simmondsia Chinensis 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.30 (Jojoba) Seed Oil, PURE

JOJOBA OIL (JOJOBA

ISRAEL)

Fragrance 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30

A2 PEG-30 2.00 0.50 2.00 0 0

Di pol yhydro ¾¾tearate ,

ARLACEL ^™ P 35(CRODA)

PEG-20 Glyceryl 0 0 0 0 2.10 Triisostearate (wth a HLB

value greater than 7),

UNIOX GT 20ΙΞ L ( NOF

CORPORATION)

B1 Water 0.9 0.25 0.1 0 0.9

Cordyceps Sinensis 0.001 0.0002 0.001 0 0.001 Extract, CORDYCEPS

EXTRACT 12% (BLUE

CALIFORNIA CO)

PPG-26-Buteth-26 (and) 0.10 0.025 0.10 0 0 PEG-40 Hydrogenated

Castor Oil,

SOLUBILISANT LRI

(LCW (SENSIE NT))

C Caprylyl Glycol , DR 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30

STRAETMANS

(DERMOSOFT OCTIOL)

P enoxyethanol, 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 NE OLONE P H 1 00

PRESE VATIVE (DOW

CHE MICAL)

D Alcohol , ABSOLUTE 1 .00 1 .00 1 .00 1 .00 1 .00

ETHANOL (ANHUI ANTE

BIOCHE MICAL)

Remarks

Comparative formula 1 does not contain first emulsifier, the second emulsifier, or hydrophilic active ingredients;

Comparative form ula 2 comprises a non-ionic emulsifier wth a HLB more than 7, according to Griffin's Method, at 25 t .

Followng com parative examples were prepared: Phase ΙΗ name % of ingredient by active ingredient (vt )

Compa fla 1' Compa fla 3 Com pa fla 4

A1 I sono nyl/l sono nanoate , 9.00 9.00 9.00

WICKENOL 151 (ALZO)

Tocopherol, DL ALPHA 0.09 0.09 0.09 TOCOPHEROL

(0410276) (DS

NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS)

Dicaprylyl Carbonate , 30 30 30

CETIOL ^e CC(COGNIS

(BASF))

CaprylicJCapric OS 100 OS 100 S 100 Triglyceride, MYRITOL*

318 (COGNIS)

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, 4.00 4.00 4.00 ROSE HIP SEED OIL TYPE C (NESTLE

WORLD TRADE CORPORATION)

Simmondsia Chinensis 2.30 2.30 2.30 (Jojoba) Seed Oil, PURE

JOJOBA OIL (JOJOBA

ISRAEL)

Fragrance 0.30 0.30 0.30

A2 PEG-20 methyl glucose 0 2.1 0

sesquistearate and

Tocopherol , Glucam ate

ΞΞΕ-20 Emulsifier from

Lubrizol, wth HLB of 15

PEG-120 methyl glucose 0 0 2.10 dioleate, Lubrizo

glucam ate DOE-120, Thickener, with HLB value

o† about 1 5

B1 Water 0 0 .9 0.9

Cordyceps Sinensis 0.001 0 .001 0.001 Extract, CORDYCEPS

EXTRACT 12% (BLUE

CALIFORNIA CO)

PPG-26-Buteth-26 (and) 0 0 0

PEG-40 Hydrogenated

Castor Oil,

SOLUBILISANT LRI

(LCW (ΞΕΝΞΙΕ NT))

C Caprylyl Glycol , DR 0.30 0 .30 0.30

STRAETMANS

(DERMOSOFT OCTIOL)

Phenoxyethanol, 0.50 0 .50 0.50

NE OLONE P H 1 00

PRESE RVATIVE (DOW

CHE MICAL)

D Alcohol , ABSOLUTE 1 .00 1 .00 1 .00

ETHANOL CANHUI ANTE BIOCHE MICAL)

Remarks:

Comparative formula 1 ' is derived from the invention form ula 1 by adding 0.001 % of hydrophilic active ingredient Cordyceps Sinensis Extract to the formula;

Comparative formulas 3 and 4 were prepared by replacing the emulsifier in the com parative formula 2 by the following em ul si tiers (2.1 % by weight of the emulsifier).

A total amount of 20 kilogram s of the each formula listed above were prepared following the steps, by using the homogeniier VMI sold by the company i-Tech at a speed of 1 000 tr/min: 1 ) Phase A preparation: mixing phase A1 and A2, and heating the m ixture to 50 ΐ , stiringthe mixture using VMI for 1 5 min, until the phase A2 was melt, and the mixture was horn ogeneous; 2) Phase B preparation: dissolving Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, if present, in water at 25 ΐ , then adding PPG-26-Buteth-26 (and) PEG-40 Hvdrogenated Castor Oil, if present, into the solution, stirring the mixture using VMI fori 5 minutes, until homogeneous;

3) adding phase B into phase A drop by drop at 50 t, meanwhile mixing the mixture using VMI for 45min, until the mixture was transparent;

4) adding phase C into the mixture obtained in step 3) at 40 t, stirring and cooling down the mixture at 25 t, then adding phase D to the mixture, and stirring using VMI for 15min until the mixture is homogeneous.

Example 2: evaluation example

P roto col s of e valu ation

Then the particle size, transparency, stability, as well as the comfort after application of the invention formulas and the comparative formulas prepared in example 1 were evaluated.

Particle size was measured with a Malvern Nano ΖΞ 90 with non diluted condition.

Transparency was measured wrth a V-550 (JASCO) with a 10 mm width cell as an average of visible light transm ittance (between 400 and 800 nm). Then the transparency of the formulas underthe light with 700 nm wavelength was observed .

Stability was m easured by leaving the formulas under 25 ^* c for 2 months, and then investigating the homogeneity of the formulas by bare eye.

Skin feeling after application was measured by 5 women models using the invention formulas 1 to 3 and com parative formula . Comparative formulas 1 ' and comparative formulas 2 to 4 were not stable overtime, and therefore were not subject to the comfort after application test.

Finally, scores were given by the women models 2 minutes after application, in terms of the comfortable feeling, oily feeling, and shiny skin.

5: very good skin feeling, excellent penetration, no feeling of oily or shiny;

4: good skin feeling, good penetration, no feeling of oily or shiny;

3: acceptable skin feeling, feeling of penetration, no feeling of oily or shiny;

2: poor penetration, sticky feeling, oily and shiny after application;

: heavy stick feeling, oily and shiny skin is observed easily after application.

Result of the evaluation

Stability result

Formula Stability Di(50) (nm) Transm ittance Skin feel Inv fla 1 Stable 120 98% 5

Inv fla 2 Stable 120 99% 5

Inv fla 3 Stable 120 99% 5

Compa fla 1 Stable No particles in the 99% 2

formula

Compa fla ' Instable / / /

Solid particles were

observed immediately

after preparation

Compa fla 2 Instable / / /

Phase separation in 24

hours after preparation

Compa fla 3 Instable / / /

Solid particles were

observed in 24 hours

after preparation

Compa fla 4 Instable /

Solid particles were

observed in 24 hours

after preparation

It can be observed that invention formulas , 2 and 3, comparing to the com parative formulas , 1 ' , and 2 to 4, possess good stability and a good transparency. Meanwhile, the inventions formulas possess improved comfort feel after application, such as very good penetration, without feeling of oily or shiny, as compared to the comparative formula .