DESCRIPTION

TITLE OF INVENTION COMPOSITION TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a dyeing or a bleaching composition, for keratin fibers such as hair.

BACKGROUND ART

In addition to higher performance of products for bleaching or dyeing hair, consumers of such products are more and more sensitive to the usage quality of the products.

From the viewpoint of usage quality, for example, malodor from ammonia which is typically contained as an alkaline agent in conventional hair bleaching or dyeing products, difficulty in handling conventional hair bleaching or dyeing products which are in the form of a liquid, gel, or cream, the risk of the product dripping during the application to the hair, and the like can be regarded as significant drawbacks.

In order to solve the problems involving the malodor of ammonia, it has been proposed to totally or partially replace ammonia with another alkaline agent such as amino acids. However, the consequence of this modification was a decrease in the bleaching or dyeing efficiency. Recently, an alternative to the hair bleaching or dyeing

compositions based on ammonia as an alkaline agent has been proposed, with

compositions comprising a large amount of fatty materials. Such compositions usually contain a large quantity of fatty compounds, in combination with an oxidizing agent, with or without an oxidative dye. Such compositions provide high bleaching or dyeing ability. Such compositions are known, for example, in FR2940058A (OA08548), FR2940083A (OA08549), and FR2958161 A (OA10122). In order to enhance the usage quality of hair bleaching or dyeing products, foam textures have been recently recognized as strong improvements in the market, especially in terms of easier handling. Current hair bleaching or dyeing products to be applied in the form of a mousse in the market generally include a foaming surfactant, an oxidizing agent, and an alkaline agent, with or without an oxidative dye. In order to realize an adequate bleaching or dyeing property comparable to that of conventional hair bleaching or dyeing products, ammonia is in general used as the alkaline agent in such products. Consequently, the problem of the ammonia-derived malodor is not solved. The obtaining of

compositions in the form of a mousse from the compositions with a large amount of fatty compounds was not proposed because it was thought that a large amount of fatty materials may suppress or collapse the foam.

SUMMARY OF INVENTION

TECHNICAL PROBLEM

An objective of the invention is to develop a dyeing or bleaching composition with a good quality of foam and a reduced malodor.

SOLUTION TO PROBLEM

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: (a) at least one first alkaline agent(s) selected from amino acid salt(s), (b) at least one second alkaline agent(s) which is different from the (a) first alkaline agent, (c) at least one fatty material(s) at an amount of equal to or higher than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one surfactant.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

The composition according to the present invention contains a large amount of fatty compounds and still can have a good foamability and exhibit a good stability of the formed foam, as well as a good bleaching or dyeing ability. In addition, the foam formed by the composition according to the present invention can show good consistency, as well as good applicability to the keratin fibers.

DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS

In the present invention, the terms foam and mousse are used without differentiation. The mousse according the present invention is a mixture of gas, preferably air, with a composition, preferably in the form of a liquid, cream, or gel, and the mixture, expanded or aerated, can have at room temperature (preferably 25 °C) a density preferably less than 0.5, more preferably less than 0.3, and better less than 0.2. The composition according to the present invention may be an aerated composition.

(a) First Alkaline Agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) first alkaline agent(s) selected from amino acid salt(s). A single type of amino acid salt or a combination of different types of amino acid salts may be used.

The term "amino acid salt" means a salt of an amino acid. The salt may be a metal salt, such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, and the like. In another embodiment, the salt may be an ammonium salt.

The term "amino acid" means a compound having an amino radical and an acidic radical at the same time. The amino acid includes alpha-amino acid, beta-amino acid, and gamma-amino acid, and alpha-amino acid is more preferable. The amino acid may be natural or synthetic, and a natural amino acid is more preferable. The amino acid may be, for example, glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine,

N-phenylalanine, threonine, arginine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid,

asparagine, lysine, histidine, tryptophan, cysteine, tyrosine, proline, methionine, ornithine, citrulline, or carnitine. The amino acid may preferably be a neutral amino acid, such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, phenylalanine, glutamine, asparagine, and the like.

In a particular embodiment, salts of neutral amino acids selected from the group consisting of potassium glycinate, sodium glycinate, potassium alaninate, sodium alaninate, potassium valinate, sodium valinate, potassium leucinate, sodium leucinate, potassium isoleucinate, and sodium isoleucinate are still more preferable, and potassium glycinate and sodium glycinate are most preferable.

The amount of the first alkaline agent(s) may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight or from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15 % by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

(b) Second Alkaline Agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one second alkaline agent(s) which is different from the (a) first alkaline agent. A single type of second alkaline agent or a combination of different types of second alkaline agents may be used.

The second alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of: alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkaline metal (hydrogeno)carbonates; alkaline earth metal(hydrogeno)carbonates; and alkaline metal metasilicates.

As examples of the inorganic alkaline agents, mention may be made of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydrogenocarbonate, potassium

hydrogenocarbonate, and sodium metasilicate.

The second alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of: monoamines and derivatives thereof, such as alkanolamines; diamines and derivatives thereof, such as alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine; polyamines and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.

As examples of the organic alkaline agents, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ ) groups. Particularly, the alkanolamines may be selected from the group consisting of:

monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2 -methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane. The organic alkaline agents may also be selected from urea, guanidine and their derivatives; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:

[formula I]

N - W - N

\

wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc, and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by

1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

The organic alkaline agents may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Mention may be made in particular of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

Even more preferably, the organic alkaline agent is monoethanolamine.

The amount of the second alkaline agent(s) may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

(c) Fatty Material

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty material(s). A single type of fatty material or a combination of different types of fatty materials may be used.

The term "fatty material" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1%, and even more preferably 0.1%). The fatty material may contain, in its structure, a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances may be soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, or

decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

In the scope of the invention, it has to be noted that fatty material(s) do(es) not comprise any C ₂ -C ₃ oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.

The fatty material may be in the form of a liquid or a solid. Here, "liquid" and "solid" mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at ambient temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105Pa). It is preferable that the fatty material be in the form of a liquid or a paste, more preferably in the form of a liquid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.

The fatty material may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, synthetic glycerides, esters of fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and aliphatic hydrocarbons.

These fatty materials may be volatile or non- volatile. Preferably, the fatty material(s) is(are) selected from aliphatic hydrocarbons, plant oils, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, or mixtures thereof.

As examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

As other examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may also be made of linear or branched, or possibly cyclic C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane.

As examples of synthetic glycerides, mention may be made of, for instance,

caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance, those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear

organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,

dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane.

As examples of the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are

advantageously different from the animal or plant oils as well as the synthetic glycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Q- C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, and isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate; hexyl laurate; and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₂ -C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

The following may especially be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate;

triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty esters, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃ o, and preferably C ₁₂ -C2 ₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance, methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃ o, and preferably Ci2-C ₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, and palmito-stearate mixed esters.

It is more particularly preferred to use monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may also be mentioned include:

- the products sold under the names F160, F140, Fl 10, F90, F70, and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester, and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester, and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester, and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example, referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di- triester-polyester; and

- the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The fatty material may be at least one fatty alcohol. The term "fatty alcohol" here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular, 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Among the Q-C30 fatty alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₂ 2 fatty alcohols, for example, are used.

Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol, can be used as a solid fatty material. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.

The fatty material may be a wax. Here, "wax" means that the fatty material is substantially in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a melting point generally of 35°C or more. As the waxy fatty material, waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.

For example, the wax may be chosen from carnauba wax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes such as the wax sold under the name "Performalene 400 Polyethylene" by the company New Phase Technologies, silicone waxes, for instance poly(C ₂₄ - C28)alkylmethyldimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name "Abil Wax 9810" by the company Goldschmidt, palm butter, the C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate sold under the name "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof. For example, a wax chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, and polyethylene waxes is used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is preferably chosen from candelilla wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

As fatty materials, mineral oils are preferable.

The amount of the (c) fatty material(s) is 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, more preferably 35% by weight or more, and further more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention without an oxidizing agent contains 40% by weight or more of fatty material, and after mixing with an oxidizing agent, the amount of the (c) fatty material is 20% by weight or more, and preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to the amount of the composition.

(d) Surfactant

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (d) surfactant(s).

Any surfactant may be used in the present invention. The surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. A single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used. In one embodiment, the "surfactant" is capable of forming foam with water without additives.

The surfactant may more preferably be a combination of at least one anionic surfactant(s), at least one amphoteric surfactant(s), and at least one nonionic surfactant(s).

The total amount of the (d) surfactant(s) is from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Anionic Surfactant)

According to the present invention, the type of anionic surfactant is not limited. It is preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of

(C ₆ -C ₃ o)alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃ o)alkyl ether sulfates, (C6-C ₃ o)alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates; (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkylsulfonates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkylamide sulfonates, (C6-C ₃ o)alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, and paraffin sulfonates; (C ₆ -C3 ₀ )alkyl phosphates; (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl sulfosuccinates,

(C -C ₃₀ )alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, and (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkylamide sulfosuccinates;

(C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl sulfoacetates; (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )acyl sarcosinates; (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )acyl glutamates;

(C6-C3o)alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers; (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkylpolyglycoside

sulfosuccinates; (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl sulfosuccinamates; (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )acyl isethionates; N-(C ₆ - C ₂₄ )acyl taurates; Q-C30 fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; (C ₈ -C2o)acyl lactylates; (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ - C3o)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts; and polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C3o)alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts.

In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are i the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance, sodium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance, magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acid form.

It is more preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from salts of (C ₆ -C3 ₀ )alkyl sulfate.

The amount of the anionic surfactant may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1%) to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Amphoteric Surfactant)

According to the present invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric (or zwitterionic) surfactants can be, for example, amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate, or phosphonate).

The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C ₈ -C ₂ 4)alkylbetaines,

(C8-C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and

(C8-C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulphobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylbetaines,

(C8-C2 ₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine,

palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine,

cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an

alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular, cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates.

The amphoteric surfactant may be selected from (C ₈ -C2 ₄ )-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl amphodiacetates, (C8-C ₂₄ )alkyl amphomonopropionates, and

(C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl amphodipropionates.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium

Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium

Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate,

Lauroamphodipropionic acid, and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MiranolR C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

The amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

(Cationic Surfactant)

According to the present invention, the type of cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally

polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, alkyl quarternary ammonium salt, for example, chloride and methyl sulfate, of

diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of

triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example, methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example, dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

The compositions according to the present invention may comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di-, and tri-ester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in

compositions according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance, dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as

behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride;

palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and

stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the

compositions of the present invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example, from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22,

behenylamidopropyl-2,3 -dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylarnnionium chloride, and

stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

The amount of the cationic surfactant(s) may be, if present, from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

(Nonionic Surfactant)

According to the present invention, the type of nonionic surfactant is not limited. The nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and esters of fatty acids that are polyethoxylated,

polypropoxylated, or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;

polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol; (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁ 4)alkylamine oxides or N- (C ₁₀ -Ci ₄ )acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated, or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:

oxyalkylenated (C8-C ₂₄ )alkylphenols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈ - C ₃₀ amides; esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols; poly oxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃ o acids and of sorbitol; saturated or unsaturated, oxyalkylenated plant oils; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures.

The surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

In accordance with one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the

oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C30 alcohols or ethoxylated fatty esters.

Examples of ethoxylated (or oxyethylenated) fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups, and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene groups (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Steareth-10 to Steareth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of these oxyethylenated derivatives of fatty alcohols and of fatty esters may also be used.

According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants,

monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C4 ₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cg-C ₄ o alcohols correspond to the following formula:

[formula II]

RO-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-0] _m -H or RO-[CH(CH ₂ OH)-CH ₂ 0] _m -H in which R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ and preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, and preferably from 1 to 10.

As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name:

Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture. Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs/Qo alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C ₁₀ /C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, and the C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with an HLB from 8 to 18. The HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

The amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

Preferably the composition according to the present invention contains at least one anionic surfactant(s), at least one amphoteric surfactant(s), and at least one nonionic surfactant(s). In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention contains the anionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 8%; the amphoteric surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight; and the nonionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

Optional

(e) Dye

For example, for the purpose of dyeing keratin fibers such as hair, the composition according to the present invention can comprise at least one (e) dye(s). A single type of dye or a combination of different types of dyes may be used.

In one embodiment, the dye may be an oxidation dye. The oxidation dye can be selected from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers, and the acid addition salts thereof. The oxidation base can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of ortho- and para-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the acid addition salts thereof.

The oxidation dye may be an oxidation coupler which can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthols, heterocyclic couplers, and the acid addition salts thereof.

The heterocyclic couplers may be selected from the group consisting of indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles, benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1,3-benzodioxoles, quinolines, and addition salts thereof with an acid.

In general, the addition acid salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, tartrates, lactates, and acetates.

When they are present, the oxidation dye(s) more particularly represent from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the dye may be a direct dye. The direct dye can be selected from ionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.

Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include the following direct dyes: azo dyes; methine dyes; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro (hetero)aryl dyes;

tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

When they are present, the direct dye(s) more particularly represent from 0.0001%) to 10%) by weight, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (f) Oxidizing Agent

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one

(f) oxidizing agent. A single type of oxidizing agent or a combination of different types of oxidizing agents may be used.

The oxidizing agent may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be chosen from aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and ferricyanides, and persalts such as perborates and

persulphates. It is preferable that the oxidizing agent be hydrogen peroxide.

The amount of the oxidizing agent may be, if present, from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent may be present in a separate composition (oxidizing composition).

(g) Foam Stabilizer

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one (g) foam stabilizer(s). A single type of foam stabilizer or a combination of different types of foam stabilizers may be used.

Any substance which can stabilize foam formed by the composition according to the present invention may be used as the foam stabilizer.

The foam stabilizer may be a rheology modifier selected from hydrophilic or lipophilic, organic or inorganic polymers and nonpolymers.

As the rheology modifier, for example, mention may be made of: partly or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16, and KSG18 by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E23 506C by Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5 CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel, and SR DC 556 gel by Grant Industries, and SF 1204 and JK 113 by General Electric; and copolymers of a C ₃₆ diacid condensed with

ethylenediamine, with a weight-average molecular mass of approximately 6,000, such as the compounds sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100; and silicone gums, such as PDMS, having a viscosity of equal to or more than 100,000 centistokes.

The rheology modifier may preferably be chosen from organophilic clays; fumed silicas; fatty acid amides; thickening polymers such as cellulose polymers,

galactomannans, and derivatives thereof, gums of microbial origin, acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers; associative polymers; and mixture thereof.

As the organophilic clays and fumed silicas, for example, mention may be made of: optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride; and pyrogenic silica, optionally having received a hydrophobic surface treatment, whose particle size is less than 1 μπι.

As the fatty acid amide, any amide comprising in its structure at least one

hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms may be used. The fatty acid amides may be chosen from compounds derived from an amide of alkanolamine and of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃ o fatty acid, the alkanolamine and/or the fatty acid being optionally oxyalkenylated and more particularly

oxyethylenated with 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide.

The fatty acid amides are preferably chosen from amides of a C ₂ - C ₁₀ alkanolamine and of a C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acid, and more preferably chosen from amides of a C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanolamine and of a C ₁ -C ₂₂ fatty acid.

As the cellulose polymers, for example, mention may be made of:

hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, methylcelluloses,

ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses, and quaternized cellulose derivatives.

As gums of microbial origin, mention may be made of non-ionic guar gum, specifically modified non-ionic guar gums and unmodified non-ionic guar gums.

The unmodified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.

The modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are

hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups.

These hydroxyalkylated guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP 120,

Jaguar DC 293, and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.

Also suitable are non-ionic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, more especially hydroxypropyl groups, modified with groups comprising at least one C6-C30 fatty chain. By way of example of such compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Esaflor HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18® (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

As the acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers, for example, mention may be made of: acrylic acid homopolymers crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series, for example, the products sold under the names CARBOPOL 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Goodrich and the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA; crosslinked acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid homopolymers, crosslinked acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid homopolymers, crosslinked acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid

homopolymers, crosslinked 2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, and crosslinked 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid homopoplymers, in particular, crosslinked and partially or totally neutralized

poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acids are described and prepared, for example, in German Patent No. 196 25 810.

As the associative polymer, any amphiphilic polymer comprising, in its structure, at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion, may be used.

The associative polymers in accordance with the present disclosure may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric polymers.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers are described and prepared, for example, according to an emulsion polymerization process described in document EP-0 216 479.

Associative anionic polymers of which non-limiting mention may be made include anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ )alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

Further examples include the anionic polymers described and prepared according to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Cationic associative polymers of which non-limiting mention may be made include quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising at least one amine side group.

The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from at least one of:

celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, for example. C ₈ -C ₂₀ , arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, for example,

Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon,

celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups,

guars, for example, hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example, an alkyl chain, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomeric residues,

copolymers of at least one monomeric residue chosen from Q-Q alkyl methacrylates and acrylates and of amphiphilic monomeric residues comprising at least one fatty chain, copolymers of monomeric residues chosen from hydrophilic methacrylates and acrylates and of hydrophobic monomeric residues comprising at least one fatty chain, for example, the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, associative polyurethanes,

and mixtures thereof.

For example, the associative polymers may be chosen from associative polyurethanes.

In another example, the associative polyurethanes may be chosen from nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature, and hydrophobic blocks that may be chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences, and aromatic sequences.

In yet another example, the polymers that may be used include those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen-Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).

Further, xanthane gums may be used.

The foam stabilizer may more preferably be selected from the group consisting of cellulose polymers, guars, especially, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, and xanthane gums.

The amount of the foam stabilizer(s) may be, if present, from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

(h) Other Components

The composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous medium. The aqueous medium in the composition according to the present invention may comprise water. The amount of water may be less than 80% by weight, preferably from 3% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 70% by weight, and further more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention without an oxidizing agent contains from 10% to 50% by weight or more, and after mixing with an oxidizing agent, the amount of water is from 20% to 70% by weight, relative to the amount of the composition.

The aqueous medium may further comprise at least one organic solvent. The organic solvent is preferably water-miscible. As the organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyolethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, and monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol; and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxy ethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other agents, known previously elsewhere in oxidation dyeing, such as various common adjuvants, for instance, ammonia, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones other than those mentioned before such as organomodified silicones (such as with amine groups), preserving agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol, opacifiers, and so on.

The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as an O/W emulsion, a W/O emulsion, a multiple emulsion, or the like. The form of an O/W emulsion is preferable. The pH value of the composition according to the present invention applied to the keratin fibers may generally be, for example, from 4 to 12. It can range from 6 to 12, and preferably 7 to 11, and may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent that is well known in the prior art. The acidifying agents can be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for instance, hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance, tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, or sulphonic acids.

Kit

The composition according to the present invention may be formulated into a kit comprising at least a first compartment and a second compartment. The first compartment comprises (a) at least one first alkaline agent(s) selected from amino acid salt(s), (b) at least one second alkaline agent(s) which is (are) different from the (a) first alkaline agent, (c) at least one fatty material(s) at an amount of 20% by weight or more, relative to the total amount of the first compartment, (d) at least one surfactant(s), and optionally (e) at least one dye. The second compartment comprises (f) at least one oxidizing agent(s).

According to one embodiment, after mixing the first compartment, wherein the amount of (c) fatty material(s) is 30% by weight of more, with the second compartment, wherein the amount of the (c) fatty material(s) is 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition obtained by mixing the first compartment and the second compartment.

The composition according to the present invention can be formed as a mousse from air, inert gas, or a mixture thereof with the previously described composition.

According to this embodiment, the composition can be packaged in a foam dispenser. It can involve either products referred to as "aerosols" dispensed from a pressurized container by means of a propellant gas and thus forming a foam at the time of their dispensing, or compositions dispensed from a container by means of a mechanical pump connected to a dispensing head where the passage of the composition through the dispensing head transforms it into a foam in the area of the outlet orifice of such a head at the latest.

According to a first variant, the dispenser can be an aerosol furthermore containing the composition according to the present invention, generally divided into two parts: one with the oxidizing agent(s) and the other with the alkaline agent(s) and optionally the coloring substance(s) and a propellant gas. In such a configuration, generally the two parts are stored separately, each in a pressurized container. Thus the propellant gases selected for each of the containers can be adapted to the part of the composition with which it is mixed.

According to this preferred embodiment, the purpose of the present invention is a non-aerosol device comprising the composition from the present invention.

The present invention also relates to a process for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: a step of mixing or shaking the composition according to the present invention and an oxidizing agent to prepare a mixture (ready-to-use mixture), and a step of applying the mixture to the keratin fibers. The mixing can be performed using any means such as a spoon and a whisk. In another embodiment, the mixing or shaking is performed using a device dispensing a mousse, aerosol, or non aerosol, such as described before.

In one embodiment of the process according to the present invention, the composition according to the present invention can be used in treating (e.g., dyeing or bleaching) keratin fibers such as hair, comprising, for example, the steps:

applying to wet or dry keratin fibers a composition which is either prepared by mixing or shaking, just before the application to the keratin fibers, one or more of the components (a) to (d) and the other components in the composition according to the present invention;

leaving the composition to act for an exposure time, ranging, for example, from 1 to 60 minutes, or from 5 to 45 minutes;

rinsing the keratin fibers; and

optionally washing them with shampoo, rinsing them again and then drying them.

The application of the composition according to the present invention may be realized at room temperature or with the use of a warming device which is able to produce a temperature ranging from 40 to 220°C, and preferably ranging from 40 to 80°C.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-5 and Reference Examples 1-4

[Preparations]

The following compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Reference Examples 1-4, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 or 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in the tables are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.

PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, coco-betaine, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium metabisulfite, chelating agent (EDTA and/or pentasodium pentetate), and glycinate salt (potassium glycinate or sodium glycinate) or other alkaline agents shown in Table 2 were mixed in water. Then to the mixture was added mineral oil at 40° C with agitation at 40°C. Then to the mixture was added guar gum 2-hydroxypropyl ether or hydroxyethyl cellulose. The mixture was cooled to room temperature. To the mixture were added ascorbic acid (pre-dissolved in water) and the dyes (for Ex. 5 only), and then monoethanolamine was further added into the mixture with agitation.

Table 1 (Compositions of Present Invention)

Component (% by weight) Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5

Mineral oil 60 60 60 60 60

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1 1 1 1 1

Sodium laureth sulfate (70% AM) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5

Coco-betaine (30% AM) 10 10 10 10 10

EDTA 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

Pentasodium pentetate (40% AM) 2 2

Sodium metabisulfite 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Ascorbic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Potassium glycinate (present 3 3 5 5

invention)

Sodium glycinate (present invention) 3

p-phenylenediamine 0.29

p-aminophenol 0.15

Resorcinol 0.32

m-aminophenol 0.09

2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol 0.058 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene 0.04

Guar gum 2-hydroxypropyl ether 2.25 2.25 2.25

Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 2.5 2.5

Monoethanolamine 5.16 4.66 4.66 5.16 4.66

Water QS QS QS QS QS

*AM : Active Material

Table 2 (Comparative Compositions)

These comparative compositions differ from the composition according to the present invention by the type of the first alkali agent. A. Stability

The alkali-containing composition as shown in Tables 1 and 2 was put into a centrifuge and the centrifuge was spun at 3000 rpm for 60 min. The

alkali-containing composition was taken out from the centrifuge. The appearance of the composition was checked visually for stability.

B. Mix with developer (preparation of ready-to-use composition for keratin fibers) The alkali-containing compositions of Table 1 and Table 2 were mixed with the developer as shown in Table 3 according to the ratio given in Table 4.

Table 3 : Developer (oxidizing agent, common to all Examples and Reference Examples)

Table 4: Preparation of the ready-to-use composition (alkali agent / developer)

[Evaluations]

The stability of the alkaline-containing composition, lightening ability, and foaming effect of the compositions according to the Examples and Reference Examples were measured and evaluated as follows. (1) Lightening ability

Each alkali-containing composition was mixed thoroughly with a developer (oxidizing agent) as shown in Table 3 at the weight ratio as shown in Table 4. The mixture was applied immediately after the preparation thereof onto a swatch of Japanese black hair in a weight ratio 3:1 (dye composition : hair swatch). The applied hair swatch was left for 30 minutes at 30°C. Then, the applied hair swatch was washed out by shampoo and dried. The color of the hair was determined by using the L*a*b* system, with a Minolta CM-508d spectrophotometer. According to this system, L indicates the lightness. The lower the value of L, the more intense the color of the hair. The chromaticity coordinates are expressed by the parameters a* and b*, a* indicating the axis of red/green shades and b the axis of yellow/blue shades. ΔΕ, which is the color variation between an uncolored lock and a colored lock, is obtained from the following formula:

[Math. 1]

ΔΕ = (L* -L ₀ *) ² + (a* -a ₀ *) ² + (b* -b ₀ *) ² wherein L* indicates lightness and a* and b* are the chromaticity coordinates of the colored locks whereas L ₀ * indicates the lightness and a ₀ * and b ₀ * are the chromaticity of the uncolored locks. The higher the value of ΔΕ, the more intense the coloration.

For the evaluation of hair lightening (bleaching) ability, the following criteria were used.

(2) Foaming Property

a) Foam volume: The alkali-containing composition (20 g) and the developer (20 g) were put in a container with a volume of 350 ml and the container was closed with a lid. Then the container was shaken vigorously 30 times. The cap was opened, and the foaming volume was determined by the ratio of the foam volume to the volume of the container. In other words, the foaming property was determined by the following equation: Foaming Volume (%) = Foam Volume After Shaken/Volume of Container (500 ml). The foaming property was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

b) Foam thickness: form thickness was measured according to the following criteria.

c) Foam Uniformity: foam uniformity was evaluated by appearance and measuring pH values of the foam at several points of different depth in the container.

The results of the evaluations are shown in Table 5 as follows.

Table 5: Results of evaluation

Examples 1 to 4 each containing glycinate salt all showed high stability and high foaming ability (foam volume, foam thickness, and uniformity). In contrast, Ref. Ex. 1 (alkaline agent corresponding to glycinate salt was not used) showed good stability, but had low lightening ability. Ref. Ex. 2 (potassium carbonate was used) and Ref. Ex. 3 (potassium hydroxide was used) showed a relatively high lightening ability, but had less stability. Ref. Ex. 4 (containing a low amount of fatty material) showed high stability and foam volume, but was not satisfactory in terms of lightening ability, foam thickness, and foam uniformity.

Since the composition according to Example 5 has the same ingredients as the composition according to Example 3 except for oxidation dye precursors and couplers, the composition according to Example 3 is believed to have satisfactory properties, in terms of all of bleaching ability, foaming property, and cosmetic property, which are equivalent to those for Example 1.