Description Field of the invention

The present invention relates to the field of make-up and cosmetics in general. More in detail, the present invention relates to a peculiar cosmeceutical composition which acts as a camouflage for use in the treatment of various types of skin imperfections. Even more in detail, the present invention relates to a composition comprising emollient, adsorbent- opacifying substances, waxes and pigments, adapted to cover various types of skin imperfections. The present invention also relates to a process for obtaining said composition and to an aesthetic treatment method based on the use of said composition.

Prior art

To date, most of the motivations that cause a person to undergo an aesthetic treatment arise from inner insecurities that lead to the lack of acceptance of oneself and to not feeling at ease in public and private life. This is the case of many subjects affected by skin blemishes, scars or disfigurations of congenital origin that cannot be corrected with the common dermatological methods or cosmetic surgery. For these conditions, however, some known camouflage techniques are applicable, which allow optimal aesthetic results to be obtained, making the imperfection treated invisible to the human eye. The growing social interest in the benefits that can be found by undergoing this aesthetic technique has resulted, even in hospitals, in the establishment of specifically dedicated departments.

The camouflage technique is used in the coverage of temporary or permanent, congenital or acquired imperfections such as, but not limited to: vascular lesions (e.g. Angiomas, Couperose, Telangiectasias); surgical lesions (e.g. outcomes of reconstructive and aesthetic plastic surgery); traumatic injuries (e.g. ecchymosis, burn-healing outcomes).

Moreover, this technique can be applied in case of other imperfections and problems such as, for example, stretch marks, dark circles and for covering tattoos.

More specifically, among the aforementioned vascular lesions/blemishes which can be treated with the camouflage technique, Angiomas are the class of multiple vascular pathologies, mostly benign, which appear as red or violet colored skin patches.

Facial erythrosis is a pathology that appears as widespread redness of the face, either transient or permanent, correlable with a reduction of skin thickness, typical of sensitive skin, or greater vessel blood flow on a nerve base. When redness is associated with microteleangectasia, or the appearance of small dilated veins, reference is instead made to Couperose. Both these imperfections are often the expression of a widespread disease that takes the name of Rosacea.

Telangiectasias are small sinuous arborescences of reddish-blue color, secondary to dilatation of the small postcapillary veins. They are mainly observed at the lower limbs and, when present in large numbers, can cause discomfort.

Among the dermatological lesions, Vitiligo is a pigmentation disorder that can arise at any age. It is characterized by the presence of clear patches on skin and mucosa, due to inadequate production of melanin.

Acne is a very common disease, especially in adolescence. It is due to increased production of sebum associated with partial or total blocking of its exit from the duct of the hair follicle. It shows with the appearance of comedones, commonly known as "blackheads", possibly associated with the presence of small inflammatory lesions inappropriately called pimples. Solar lentigo, also called senile or actinic, are rounded brown spots secondary to melanin accumulation. They are generally observed on the face, decollete and/or back of the hands of adults, as they are favored by exposure to ultraviolet rays and aging.

Melasma is a brown spot of variable size, secondary to excessive localized production of melanin following exposure to ultraviolet rays. It is found more on the face of women of Latin or Asian origin, even if the pathogenesis is not clear. Pregnancy and the use of estroprogestestinal drugs are important risk factors, to the point that, when correlated to them, the lesion is often called chloasma. Pityriasis versicolor is a skin infection caused by fungi of the genus Malassezia. It is characterized by the appearance of patches of variable size, mainly located in the chest. They are brown on light skin, while on tanned skin they appear whitish.

Among the traumatic and/or surgical lesions, the Ecchimosi, commonly known as bruises or hematoma, are bluish marks secondary to blood extravasation, having variable dimensions depending on the trauma that caused it.

Scars represent the permanent outcome of a burn, traumatic or surgical wound. Initially a scar has a reddish color and then becomes pearly white. Depending on the location, extent, nature of the damage and evolution of the healing process, it may be flat, in relief (hypertrophic) or depressed (atrophic).

Further imperfections are: the so-called "dark circles", represented by bluish, dark brown or reddish colors of the portion of skin placed below the eye; stretch marks, also called striae distensae, which appear as pearly white or red lines of varying length and thickness. They are an expression of irreparable damage to the collagen and elastin fibers.

Finally, even tattoos can, for some subjects, be seen as ornaments that are no longer accepted, or rather imperfections to be remedied. Currently there is a substantial increase in requests for removal or their transitory coverage in the field of cinema or at special events. Therefore, camouflage make-up techniques are born with the intent of remedying all the inconveniences that afflict individuals with skin imperfections.

In general, the products used for camouflage must have specific requirements and specific formulations that differentiate them from common make-up products. More specifically, a camouflage composition must be accompanied by an excellent range of mixable colors; it must contain a very high percentage of micronizing pigments to obtain a high covering power; it must possess a perfect capacity to adhere to the disfigured skins; it must be resistant to water and sweat, guaranteeing the tightness of the product even to those who play sports (swimming, gym, etc.); it must ensure perspiration of the skin without occluding the pores; it must not contain alcohol and/or perfumes. It must contain solar filters.

From the formulation point of view, these characteristics can be achieved by calibrating the quantities of the ingredients of the product in order to obtain a pleasant texture for the subject and "manageable" for the operator.

The main ingredients contained in a camouflage product are emollient substances, waxes, adsorbents and opacifiers, pigments, sunscreens etc.

The emollient substances may be oils from the plant and/or mineral world or may be synthetic oils. The oils, as well as emollients, act as solvents and dispersants for dyes. An example of commonly used oil is capric/caprylic triglyceride, which has the considerable advantage of being odorless and stable to oxidation, also improving the flow properties, softness and pleasantness of application. The waxes can be of natural, mineral and synthetic origin (candelilla wax, beeswax, ozokerites, ceresins, etc.). The choice of different waxes, with different chemical structures and therefore with different melting points, in different proportions, influences the consistency and rigidity of the product. As adsorbents and opacifiers, kaolin, talc, magnesium carbonate, silica, mica are often used, capable of absorbing the greasiness of the skin and making the product less fat.

As far as pigments are concerned, they must be able to cover chromatically, that is, to hide the treated portion with their specific surface, assuming the predefined color. In particular, micronized coloring powders with extremely fine particle size are used in mixtures of waxes, oils, or emulsions to guarantee an optimal yield. Generally, camouflage products mainly include titanium dioxide and iron oxides that, in addition to being pigmented and covering, play an important action of shielding solar radiation. All other pigments must be combined in different percentage to obtain the desired hue.

Sunscreens can be organic chemical filters such as ethylhexyl metoxycinnamate, or inorganic such as titanium dioxide, which can protect the skin from solar radiation.

Further useful components in the definition of a Camouflage composition, are humectant agents such as, by way of non-limiting example, dipentaeryhyl-tetrabehenate- polyhydroxystearate and antioxidants such as, by way of non-limiting example, tocopheryl acetate. Said substances are more specifically useful in guaranteeing the stability of the product, avoiding its dehydration and protecting it from oxidation. Camouflage products, in order to boast particular cosmetic performances, must have specific characteristics. As already mentioned, these products contain emollient substances (vegetable and/or mineral oils, synthetic oils) mixed with a combination of waxes (vegetable, synthetic) in different percentages depending on the desired consistency and density. Kaolin, talc and magnesium carbonate are added as excipients and adsorbents of the greasiness of the skin, while titanium dioxide and iron oxide as well as being pigmented and covering, perform the important action of shielding the solar radiation so that the product can play a skin protection action. Some products for Camouflage makeup available on the market contain silicones, parabens, mineral oils, which improve the texture and the pleasantness of the product, but in some cases may be critical ingredients for individuals particularly sensitive to contact with these substances.

US 6,361,782 Bl relates, for example, to a cosmetic or dermatological composition to hide skin imperfections comprising a fat-based liquid phase including dispersed surface-stabilized polymer particles and a dye. This composition is suitable for camouflage techniques designed to hide skin imperfections such as scars, dyschromia and couperose. In its various embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the above document may further comprise stabilizers such as block or random copolymers.

US 6,342,237 Bl relates to a cosmetic composition comprising fibers in an aqueous dispersion and at least one polymeric material in the form of a film belonging to the polyurethanes family. More specifically, the cosmetic composition of the above document allows "camouflaging" skin defects such as spots, scars and imperfections of various types. The composition of the aforementioned document is such as to be resistant to water and is above all such as to "adhere" firmly to the skin, so as to ensure that its permanence on the skin is particularly durable. This result is obtained by using fibers combined with a polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion film. The fibers used can be natural fibers such as cellulose, cotton fibers or synthetic fibers, such as acrylic or polyolefin fibers.

In general, the formulations for Camouflage make-up, given the need for protection that the types of skin to which the camouflage is intended require, and to achieve at the same time a pleasant texture, have, in some cases, sunscreens (spf 15 spf 30) in the form of nanomaterials, structures still much discussed in the cosmetology field.

The object of the present patent application for industrial invention is to propose a new cosmeceutical composition for camouflage techniques which, advantageously, turns out to be decidedly versatile depending on the type of phototype to be treated and, above all, that is able to minimize, if not reduce at all, the onset of critical issues in subjects with particularly sensitive skin. All due to peculiar combinations of known substances and the specifically used amounts thereof. Description of the invention

The present description relates to a new and peculiar cosmeceutical composition, preferably formulated in cream, to be used for cosmetic camouflage methods in the treatment of skin blemishes due to injuries of various kinds such as, by way of example and without limitation: vascular lesions, dermatological lesions, traumatic/surgical injuries and blemishes of various kinds due, for example, to the presence of dark circles, stretch marks or tattoos that have become undesired. The present description also relates to a kit of components, comprising said composition preferably in cream formulation, further comprising products such as: at least one fixing powder, preferably at least two fixing powders, at least one fixing liquid, at least one anhydrous makeup remover and a plurality of accessories useful for its application, such as sponges and brushes. The present description also relates to a process for the preparation of said cosmeceutical composition and to particular methods for its application during the execution of aesthetic treatments, consistently with what is claimed in the appended claims.

Advantageously, the composition object of the present patent application for industrial invention is such as to guarantee an optimal color rendering and a high dermal affinity. The different substances that compose it are in fact able to result, when associated with each other, in a composition exhibiting versatility with respect to the various types of skin.

Advantageously, said cosmeceutical composition is anhydrous and free of agents such as parabens, silicones, lanolin, mineral oils and perfumed substances, thus reducing the risk of the occurrence of irritations or allergies.

Advantageously, the coexistence, in its various formulations, of triglycerides, waxes, sun protection factors, humectants and antioxidants (vitamin E), opacifying agents and dyes, conveniently combined in different percentages, allows giving the desired color hue to said composition.

Advantageously, said composition is water resistant, non-comedogenic, and protective against UVB and UVA rays. More specifically, said composition, preferably formulated in cream, has an SPF 15 being intended for subjects with skin problems that limit their exposure to solar radiation. It is in fact important to underline that it is recommended by the physician to avoid sun exposure, especially during the central hours of the day, to those affected by the imperfections mentioned above. Consequently, the subjects that for personal or professional reasons are forced to expose themselves to the sun must apply a cream with a relatively high protective factor under the camouflage maquillage.

Advantageously, said composition, when formulated in cream and appropriately applied to the skin, is of long duration, allowing the pleasant aesthetic effect, achieved thanks to its application, to be maintained for relatively long times.

Advantageously, said composition can also be used as a simple compact foundation for individuals who need a long lasting make-up which, at the same time, also guarantees a medium protection against exposure to solar radiation.

Advantageously, given its versatility of application to various types of skin, the subject composition lends itself to its application on both skin affected by particular types of imperfections, thus fulfilling its role as a camouflage product, and on normal skin in a makeup with a much longer life compared to conventional make-up products.

Advantageously, said composition is available in various chromatic hues, preferably, but not exclusively, in 24 chromatic hues obtainable from the association of 8 concealers, 8 light bases, 8 dark bases, which allow it to be adapted to the most varied skin shades found in subjects of all ethnic groups. In some embodiments, the subject cosmeceutical composition is available in 32 chromatic hues.

As already mentioned, said composition, appropriately formulated, can be combined during its application with substances and compositions that contribute to optimizing the aesthetic result.

The subject composition, preferably formulated in cream, is typically available, without limitation, in 24 hues, preferably in 32 hues, divided into concealers, bases for light skin, bases for amber skins, bases for dark skin. As mentioned above, the hues have been designed and produced for all chromatic types found in subjects of all ethnic groups, or for all skin types, both male and female. Typically, light shades are suitable for individuals with phototype I, II, III, while the darker shades are suitable for subjects with phototype IV, V, VI. Concealers are necessary to neutralize skin discolorations caused by imperfections. For the sole purpose of greater descriptive exhaustiveness, it is noted herein that, conventionally, subjects with phototype I are meant those with red hair, light eyes, freckles, pale complexion of milky appearance; subjects with photo type II are those with blonde hair, light eyes, fair complexion; subjects with phototype III are those with blonde or brown hair, brown or light eyes, fair or moderately dark complexion; subjects with phototype IV are those with dark brown hair, dark eyes, fairly dark complexion; subjects with phototype V are those with brown hair, dark eyes, dark or olive complexion; and subjects with phototype VI are those with black hair, black eyes, black complexion.

More specifically, the cosmeceutical composition object of the present description can be provided to the user provided with: at least one fixing powder, preferably two fixing powders, at least one fixing liquid, at least one anhydrous makeup remover and a plurality of useful accessories in the aesthetic treatment method, such as sponges and brushes. All this offering a complete kit of components and substances for the implementation of non- invasive camouflage methods to the users, aimed at covering skin imperfections of various entities and nature.

As already anticipated, and as described hereinafter in detail, the object of the present description is also a peculiar procedure aimed at obtaining the cosmeceutical composition according to the present invention. Description of the preferred embodiments

In the preferred embodiment thereof, the cosmeceutical camouflage composition, for use in the non-invasive treatment of skin imperfections, is obtained starting from the following components: capric/caprylic triglyceride from 25% to 50% by weight; titanium dioxide from 10%) to 25%o by weight; beeswax from 10%> to 25% by weight; candelilla wax from 1%> to 5%> by weight; ethylhexyl metoxycinnamate from 1%> to 5% by weight; dipentaerythrityl tetrabehenate/polyhydroxystearate from 1%> to 5% by weight; magnesium carbonate from 1%) to 5%> by weight; silica from 1%> to 5% by weight; hydrogenated vegetable oils from 1% to 5%> by weight; mica from 1% to 5% by weight; tocopherol from 0.1% to 1% by weight; phenoxyethanol in an amount of 0.20% by weight; dyes up to 5% by weight. More specifically, of said components, capric/caprylic triglyceride has the function of "masking"; titanium dioxide of opacifying and shielding agent against UV rays; beeswax of binding agent; candelilla wax of binding agent; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate of a filter against UV rays; dipentaerythrityl tetrabehenate/polyhydroxystearate of humectant agent; magnesium carbonate of opacifying agent; silica of adsorbent agent; hydrogenated vegetable oils of emollient; mica of opacifying agent; tocopherol of antioxidant agent; phenoxyethanol of preservative; dyes of agents adapted to impart the desired color hues which are closer to the natural skin colors similar to those of the above phototypes. More specifically, said composition can comprise dyes such as, by way of non-limiting example, pigments formulated in micronized coloring powders with an extremely fine particle size and well dispersed in mixtures of waxes, oils, or emulsions to guarantee an optimal yield. Generally, camouflage products mainly include titanium dioxide and iron oxides that, in addition to being pigmenting and covering, play an important action of shielding solar radiation. All other pigments are combined in different percentage to obtain the desired hue. The pigments [CI 77491, 77492, 77499 (IRON OXIDES), 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), 77019 MICA, 12085 (RED 36), 77289 (CHROMIUM HYDROXIDE GREEN), 19140 (YELLOW 5 LAKE), 15850 (RED 7 LAKE), 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE), 42090 (BLUE 1 LAKE), 75470 (CARMINE)] are present in formula in different percentages for the different shades of color.

The process for obtaining said composition consists in various steps and provides first of all that all the equipment used is previously cleaned and sanitized.

More specifically, said process comprises a plurality of steps consisting of:

a) Preheating a turboemulsifier until a temperature between 80 °C and 85 °C is reached, at which capric/caprylic triglyceride; beeswax; candelilla wax; dipentaerythrityl tetrabehenate/polyhydroxystearate; magnesium carbonate; silica; hydrogenated vegetable oils; and phenoxyethanol are loaded. The set of said substances is therefore kept under vacuum at a residual pressure ranging from 500 to 600 mmHg and under fast stirring and specifically at a speed ranging from 1800 to 2210 rpm until it is completely homogeneous;

b) Lowering the temperature of the turboemulsifier by 10 °C compared to that reached in the previous step a) and loading titanium dioxide, mica and dyes. The compound is then left under vacuum, and specifically at a residual pressure ranging from 500 to 600 mmHg, and under fast stirring at a speed ranging from 1800 to 2200 rpm until complete and perfect dispersion of the powders;

c) Loading ethylmethoxycinnamate and tocopherol and stirring at a speed of between 1500 and 2000 rpm at a residual pressure of between 500 and 600 mmHg until the mixture is perfectly homogeneous;

d) Carrying out conventional standard characterization techniques to ascertain that the data about the physical and chemical parameters of the composition fall within corresponding reference parameters;

e) The thus obtained from the previous steps is heated to a temperature of between 70 °C and 75 °C for an interval of about 30 minutes to obtain a fluid product;

f) Heating at least one bottom to a temperature of between 40 °C and 45 °C;

g) Slowly pouring the fluid bulk into the bottom until the latter is completely filled; h) Placing the bottoms previously filled with the bulk in a freezer at a temperature of between 0 °C and 5 °C directly in contact with the base of said freezer;

i) Removing, after a 10-minute time interval, the bottoms from the freezer.

The composition obtainable with said process therefore comprises: capric/caprylic triglyceride from 25% to 50% by weight; titanium dioxide from 10% to 25% by weight; beeswax from 10% to 25% by weight; candelilla wax from 1% to 5% by weight; ethylhexyl metoxycinnamate from 1% to 5% by weight; dipentaerythrityl tetrabehenate/polyhydroxystearate from 1% to 5% by weight; magnesium carbonate from 1%) to 5% by weight; silica from 1% to 5% by weight; hydrogenated vegetable oils from 1% to 5% by weight; mica from 1% to 5% by weight; tocopherol from 0.1% to 1% by weight; phenoxyethanol in an amount of 0.20% by weight; dyes up to 5% by weight.

For the purpose of appreciating the inventive height of the object of the invention, it should be noted that the weighted balance of the amounts of oils with different viscosity grade (capric/caprylic triglyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oils) with plastic waxes combined with more texturing waxes (beeswax, candelilla wax) allows the formation of a film with an optimal adhering power that "melts" on the skin when the cosmeceutical composition, in the form of cream, is worked in the application with the fingertips, becoming one with the skin surface. The result is a synergistic cooperation in hiding every kind of imperfection with an extremely natural result.

It should also be noted that spherical powders such as silica and mica give smoothness in the application and give a velvety and smooth texture. Also antiaging actives (tocopherol) help to keep the skin smooth and fresh-looking.

The cosmeceutical composition according to the present invention is applied by different application techniques which vary according to the type of imperfection or subject to be treated: before proceeding to the application of said composition, it is necessary to prepare the skin: it is necessary to carry out a thorough cleansing and then apply a cream suitable for the biotype and skin phototype with sun protection factor. The second step consists in carefully analyzing the type of imperfection or disfigurement to cover or hide, while checking the basic shade of the skin.

Furthermore, it is necessary to make sure that there are no irregularities in the color of the disfigured area or the surrounding areas because in this case it is also necessary to treat said areas. Then, one proceeds with the choice of the specific concealer of the color complementary to the imperfection and then with the choice of the compact base of the color that is closest to the skin color. It is also important to calibrate the amount of composition to be applied to avoid unnecessary excesses, because, in the case of correctly formulated products, high yield is obtained even with small amounts. It is important to underline that a wrong technique or a wrong choice of color causes the camouflage treatment to fail. After the aforementioned preliminary steps, it is possible to use the three main application methods using brush, fingers and sponge respectively. Frequently, and at the discretion of the operator, the three techniques can be combined, due to the preferences expressed by the customer and the size of the area to be treated.

More specifically, the brush technique is useful for covering small surfaces, requiring careful precision work. The possible overlap of a second color should be carried out like a roller as if to make a further layer of skin. The care with which the brush must be maneuvered in order to obtain a uniform coverage, avoiding chromatic mixing, is essential.

The technique with the fingers provides that with the index of a hand, possibly with the aid of the middle finger in the case of larger surfaces, the product is taken and then applied to the skin with a slight pressure, gently rolling, to avoid inadvertent removal. In this technique it is important to control the pressure applied by the fingertips.

The technique with the sponge is to be privileged when intervening on large areas. With the sponge, previously moistened, the subject cosmeceutical composition is applied by first dabbing and then rolling. At the end of this operation, it is advisable to check that it has been carried out at its best, taking care, if necessary, to retouch the product applied with the fingers or the brush.

Irrespective of the application technique used, it is important that the application of the composition is followed by the affixing of an abundant layer of fixing powder comprising, by way of non-limiting example, talc and silica. Said fixing powder should be left in place for about five minutes, then it should be removed with a special brush and the operation completed by spraying water on the treated area that should be immediately dried by dabbing with tissue paper. Said operations increase the duration of the camouflage and, by opacifying it, give a look of appreciable naturalness and aesthetic appeal to the skin. To make the makeup more resistant to water and/or rubbing by garments, it is advisable to add an additional step: the application of a fixing substance, such as, by way of non-limiting example, a hydroalcoholic solution in sprayed form with a spray mechanism, taking care to place it at about 20 - 30 cm away from the skin.