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Title:
COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS PHASE (A) AND A FATTY PHASE (B) THAT ARE VISUALLY DISTINCT FROM EACH OTHER
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2016/001255
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - (i) at least one aqueous phase (A) comprising one or more cationic thickening agents comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid, and - (ii) at least one fattyphase (B) comprising one or more branched fatty substances; the phases (A) and (B) being visually distinct from each other. This composition is intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, and particularly hair.

Inventors:
GABIN GÉRARD (FR)
STURLA JEAN-MICHEL (FR)
SIMONET FRÉDÉRIC (FR)
PIZZINO ALDO (FR)
Application Number:
PCT/EP2015/064897
Publication Date:
January 07, 2016
Filing Date:
June 30, 2015
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
OREAL (FR)
International Classes:
A61K8/37; A61K8/81; A61Q5/00
Foreign References:
EP1779838A12007-05-02
US20120328552A12012-12-27
EP1925280A12008-05-28
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
CASALONGA (8 Avenue Percier, Paris, FR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1 . Cosmetic composition comprising :

(i) at least one aqueous phase (A) comprising one or more cationic thickening agents comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid, and

(ii) at least one fatty phase (B) comprising one or more branched fatty substances;

the phases (A) and (B) being visually distinct from each other.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic thickening agent or agents are chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers derived from esters or amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid, including one or more monomers having the following structures :

C

(II)

in which:

- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a C i to C6 alkyl group, preferably a C i to C4 alkyl group,

- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group ,

- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, each represent a C i to C i 8 alkyl group or a benzyl radical,

- A denotes a linear or branched C i to C6 and preferably C i to C4 alkylene group , or a C i to C4 hydroxyalkyl group , and

- X" denotes an anion, preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

3. Composition according to either o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic thickening agent or agents are chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization o f one or more monomers, including one or more monomers having the structure

(V) :

CH2=C(R'3)-COO-Ai -N+-R'4R' 5R'6Xf (V) in which:

- R'3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a methyl group, - R'4, R' 5 and R'6, which may be identical or different, each denote a C i to C4 alkyl group , preferably a methyl group ,

Ai denotes a linear or branched C i to C4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene group, and

- Xf denotes an anion, preferably a halide, particularly chloride.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic thickening agent or agents are chosen from homopolymers that come from monomers having structure (V), copolymers based on acrylamide and monomers having structure (V) and their mixtures .

5. Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that the homopolymer resulting from polymerization of monomers having structure (V) is polyquaternium-37.

6. Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that the copolymer resulting from copolymerization between monomers having structure (V) and acrylamide is polyquaternium-32.

7. Composition according to any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic thickening agent or agents comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid are present in a total amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 15 % by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 1 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase further comprises one or more nonionic surfactants .

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty substances are chosen from branched fatty esters and branched fatty alcohols having formula (VI) :

in which:

- if n = 1 , Ri i and R12 denote independently o f each other a C i to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, it being understood that one of the radicals Rn and/or Ri 2 represents a branched C s to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and

- if n = 0,

Rn denotes a branched C s to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group and R1 2 denotes a hydrogen atom.

10. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the branched fatty substance or substances are chosen from isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl alcoho l and their mixtures .

1 1 . Composition according to any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched fatty substance or substances are present in a total amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase further comprises one or more fatty-phase thickening agents .

13. Composition according to Claim 12, characterized in that the fatty-phase thickening agent or agents are chosen from mineral thickeners, preferably from hectorites .

14. Composition according to Claim 12 or 13 , characterized in that the fatty-phase thickening agent or agents are present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.075 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.

15. Composition according to any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of aqueous phase varies from 50% to 99.5 % by weight, preferably from 60% to 98% by weight and better still from 70% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.

16. Composition according to any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount o f fatty phase varies from 0.5 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 30%> by weight and better still from 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by mixing the two phases using one or more static mixers .

1 8. Method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims .

19. Use o f a composition as defined in any one o f Claims 1 to

17, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, and particularly hair.

Description:
Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (B) that are visually distinct from each other

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (B) , where the two phases are visually distinct from each other; the aqueous phase (A) comprises one or more cationic thickening agents, comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid, and the fatty phase (B) comprises one or more branched fats.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using this composition.

The invention relates to the use o f this composition in the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres and in particular the hair.

Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action o f external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.

Accordingly, to remedy these drawbacks, it is now common to use cosmetic treatment preparations that contain cosmetic agents, known as conditioning agents, intended mainly to repair or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacks to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subj ected. These conditioning agents may also be extended to improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair, in particular giving it shine, a level of discipline, a softer feel and tone.

However, these treatment compositions are generally presented in the form o f creams o f varying degrees of thickness and they o ften have a homogeneous appearance that is not very attractive. More and more, consumers seek cosmetic products that have an original visual appearance.

It has already been proposed to make compositions comprising visually distinct phases, as described, for examp le, in patent applications WO 2006/093 742, WO 2006/042 179, WO 2006/010 090 or WO 2007/004 200. Nevertheless, in practice, these two-phase compositions have been shown to be relatively inefficient. It is o ften hard to prepare them and their stability over time is not entirely satisfactory.

Moreover, these care products may cause some drawbacks, due in particular to the presence of oils.

Anhydrous compositions comprising oils very often lead to hair that feels too greasy, which is unpleasant for consumers. As for aqueous compositions, given the very low so lubility o f oils in water, preparing them requires surfactants, which give an opaque final appearance, such as a cream-type emulsion.

Finally, these compositions rich in fatty substances are o ften difficult to apply to hair and require long rinsing.

Accordingly, there is a real need to make available compositions, in particular treatment compositions for keratin fibres, particularly human keratin fibres such as hair, not presenting the drawbacks mentioned hereinabove, i. e. that present an attractive visual appearance and that can be applied easily to said fibres, and be rinsed quickly while leading to satisfactory cosmetic properties .

The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising (i) at least one aqueous phase (A), comprising one or more cationic thickening agents comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) at least one fatty phase (B) , comprising one or more branched fatty substances; where phase (A) and phase (B) are visually distinct from each other, allows the obj ectives set out hereinabove to be met.

Indeed, the composition according to the invention allows effective conditioning of keratin fibres and has the advantage o f being able to be applied easily and o f being rinsed o ff quickly while having a very favourable visual impact on the consumer.

In other words, the composition according to the invention has improved usage qualities and an attractive visual appearance.

The subj ect of the invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising : (i) at least one aqueous phase (A) comprising one or more cationic thickening agents comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid, and

(ii) at least one fatty phase (B) comprising one or more branched fatty substances;

the phases (A) and (B) being visually distinct from each other.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair.

The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the said fibres .

Another subj ect of the invention is the use o f said composition for the cosmetic treatment o f keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and in particular hair.

The presence o f two visually distinct phases, and the manufacturing process for the composition according to the invention provide in particular new textures with an original appearance, such as for example a "marble-type" visual appearance.

Fibres treated in this way are in particular so fter, smoother to the touch, better individualized, lighter and detangle more easily. The cosmetic composition according to the invention also provides more vo lume, shape, density and body to keratin fibres .

Accordingly, the composition is suited to treating and repairing keratin fibres.

Moreover, the composition according to the invention is seen to be stable over time.

According to the present application, " stable over time" means a composition that after two months of storage at 25 to 45 °C , shows no change in appearance, colour, odour, or viscosity.

In particular, the presence o f the cationic thickening agent according to the invention provides good suspending power, contributing to limiting the physical interactions between the two phases, which ensures stability over time in the composition.

Other subj ects, characteristics, aspects and advantages o f the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In that which fo llows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expression " at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

The composition according to the invention comprises at least two phases that are visually distinct from each other, and preferably two phases that are visually distinct from each other.

The term "two visually distinct phases" means that the phases may be distinguished from each other by a person's naked eye, unlike phases forming emulsions or dispersions o f homogeneous particles. Preferably, at least one o f the phases occupies zones forming vo lutes or marbling, preferably more than 1 cm in length. Preferably, one o f the phases is not in the form o f globules . More preferably, none o f the phases is in the form of globules .

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase (A) .

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water.

The water may be present in a total amount greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50%> by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 60%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

In particular, the water may be present in a total amount ranging from 30 to 99% by weight, preferably from 50 to 99% by weight, and better still from 60 to 98 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The water may be present in a total amount greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the water may be present in a total amount ranging from 30 to 98%> by weight, preferably from 50 to 95 % by weight, and better still 60 to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more cationic thickening agents comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid.

Said thickening agent is preferably chosen from aqueous phase thickeners .

According to the present application, " aqueous-phase thickener" means compounds which, by their presence, increase the viscosity o f the aqueous phase or phases into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps and preferably by at least 50 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate o f 1 s " 1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like) .

According to the present application, "cationic thickening agent" means a thickening agent comprising one or more positive charges or one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.

The cationic thickening agent or agents used in the composition are polymers comprising in their structure at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid.

The unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid may be an ester or amide derivative of acrylic or methacrylic acid.

The cationic thickening agent or agents may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers derived from esters or amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid, including one or more monomers having the following structures : C

in which:

- Ri and R 2 , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci to C 6 alkyl group, preferably a Ci to C 4 alkyl group,

- R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

- R 4 , R 5 and R 6 , which may be identical or different, each represent a Ci to Ci8 alkyl group or a benzyl radical,

- A denotes a linear or branched Ci to C 6 and preferably Ci to C 4 alkylene group, or a Ci to C 4 hydroxyalkyl group, and - X " denotes an anion, preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic thickening agent or agents are chosen from the polymers resulting from polymerization of one or more monomers, including one or more monomers having structure (V):

CH2=C(R'3)-COO-Ai-N + -R' 4 R' 5 R'6 Xf (V)

in which:

- R' 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, preferably a methyl group,

- R' 4 , R' 5 and R' 6 , which may be identical or different, each denote a Ci to C 4 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group,

- Ai denotes a linear or branched Ci-C 4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene group, and

- Χ denotes an anion, preferably a halide, particularly chloride.

The cationic thickening agent or agents according to the invention may be crosslinked or not.

Preferably, the cationic thickening agent or agents are chosen from homopolymers that come from monomers having structure (V), copolymers based on acrylamide and monomers having structure (V) and their mixtures.

In other words, the cationic thickening agent or agents are chosen from homopolymers based on the polymerization of monomers having structure (V), copolymers based on copolymerization between at least one monomer having structure (V) and acrylamide, and their mixtures.

Among homopolymers based on polymerization of monomers having structure (V), methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, INCI name Polyquaternium-37 homopolymer is preferred.

Among copolymers based on copolymerization between monomers having structure (V) and acrylamide, methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/acrylamide, INCI name Polyquaternium- 32 is preferred. Preferably, the cationic thickening agent is the homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, INCI Polyquaternium-37.

The cationic thickening agent or agents according to the invention may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The cationic thickening agent or agents according to the invention may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2%> to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactants that may be used are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following nonionic surfactants:

- oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, comprising one or two fatty chains;

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated

C8-C30 fatty acid amides;

- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;

- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol;

- fatty acid esters of sucrose;

- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C 8 - C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C 8 - C3o)alkyl (poly)glucoside esters;

- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;

- N-(C 8 -C 30 )alkylglucamine and N-(C 8 -

C 3 o)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;

- aldobionamides;

- amine oxides;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones;

- and their mixtures.

The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges especially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

By way of example of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use may preferably be made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 - C 4 o alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

As examples of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs to C 10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the Cio to Ci2 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from among:

- oxyethylenated C8-C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;

- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils comprising from 1 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide;

- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 OE) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;

- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty acid amides;

- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs- C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;

- and their mixtures.

When they are present, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99.5%) by weight, preferably from 60%> to 98%> by weight and better still from 70% to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one fatty phase (B).

The fatty phase of the composition comprises one or more branched fatty substances. According to the present application, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa), i.e. with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight and even more preferably of less than 0.1% by weight in water. They generally have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamet hy Icy clop entasiloxane.

The fatty substances according to the invention are not fatty acids.

Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerol units.

Preferably, the branched fatty substance or substances are chosen from branched oils.

The term "oil" in this application means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 10 5 Pa).

The term "non-silicone oil or fatty substance" means an oil or fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term "silicone oil or fatty substance" means an oil or fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.

More particularly, the fatty substance or substances according to the invention are chosen from C 6 -Ci6 hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and their mixtures.

As regards the C 6 -Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, they are optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include isododecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures.

Branched hydrocarbon oils, of mineral or synthetic origin, comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

A branched hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

As for branched fluoro oils, these may be nonafluoroethoxyisobutane.

The branched fatty substance or substances used according to the present invention may be chosen from branched fatty esters and branched fatty alcohols.

In particular, branched fatty esters and branched fatty alcoho ls having formula (VI) can be used:

in which:

- if n = 1 ,

Ri i and R12 denote independently o f each other a C i to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, it being understood that one o f the radicals Rn and/or R12 represents a branched C s to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and

- if n = 0,

Rn denotes a branched C s to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group and R1 2 denotes a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the branched fatty alcoho l or alcoho ls are chosen from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcoho l, and their mixtures.

Among the branched fatty esters, mention may be made o f dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl o leate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricino leate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2- octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and their mixtures.

Esters other than those having formula (VI) can also be used, such as the esters o f branched C 4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C i to C22 alcoho ls, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of branched C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcoho ls may also be used.

In particular, mention may be made o f: diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricino leate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; neopentyl glyco l diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate, and their mixtures.

The composition may also comprise, as branched fatty ester, branched sugar esters and diesters o f fatty acid sugars C 6 to C30 and preferably C 1 2 to C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon-based compounds that contain several alcoho l functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and that comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides .

Examples o f suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereo f, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The branched esters o f sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of saturated or unsaturated C6 - C30 and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds . The branched esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures .

These branched esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, lino leates, lino lenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, o leate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made o f monoesters and diesters and in particular mono- or di-o leate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate, - lino leate, -lino lenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose and their mixtures .

According to a preferred embodiment, the branched fatty substance or substances used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from branched fatty esters, branched fatty alcoho ls and their mixtures.

More particularly, fatty esters and fatty alcoho ls, having formula (VI) and their mixtures are preferred.

More preferentially, the branched fatty substance or substances are chosen from isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl alcohol and their mixtures .

Among fatty esters having formula (VI), isopropyl myristate is preferred.

According to another specific embo diment, the fatty ester having formula (VI) is isononyl isononanoate .

Among fatty alcoho ls having formula (VI), octyldodecanol is preferred.

According to another specific embodiment, the fatty alcoho l having formula (VI) is isostearyl alcoho l.

The branched fatty substance or substances according to the invention may be present in a total amount ranging from 60% to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% to 98% by weight and better still from 70% to 95 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. The branched fatty substance or substances according to the invention may be present in a total amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase o f the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more thickening agents, preferentially chosen from fatty phase thickeners .

According to the present application, " fatty-phase thickening agent" means compounds which, by their presence, increase the viscosity o f the fatty phase or phases into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps and preferably by at least 50 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s " 1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like) .

The notion of a fatty-phase thickening agent is analogous to the notion of a lipophilic thickening agent.

The fatty-phase thickening agent or agents used in the composition according to the invention may be mineral or organic.

The mineral fatty-phase thickening agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably mineral particles consisting essentially o f mineral oxides and/or hydroxides .

These particles are preferably inso luble in water at room temperature (25 °C). According to the present application, "inso luble " means solubility o f less than 0.5 % by weight in water.

Preferably, the primary size by number of these mineral particles varies from 0.01 to 500 μιη, preferably varies from 0. 1 to 200 μιη, and more preferably varies from 1 to 100 μπι.

According to the present application "primary size of particle " means the maximum size that can be measured between two diametrically opposed points of an individual particle.

The size o f the mineral particles may be determined by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method or by laser granulometry. The mineral particles that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in various forms, for example in the form o f spheres, needles, flakes or platelets .

In a preferred variant o f the invention, the mineral fatty-phase thickening agent or agents are platelet particles.

The mineral fatty-phase thickening agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention can be preferably chosen from silicas and silicates .

The silicates o f the invention may be natural or chemically modified (or synthetic) .

Silicates correspond to optionally hydrated silica in which some of the silicon atoms are replaced with metal cations such as Al 3 + ,

D B3 + , Fe 3 + , Ga 3 + , - BD e 2 + , Zn 2 + , Λ M g 2 + , Co 3 + , Λ N. τ i· 3 + , x N t a + , T Li · + , C ^a 2 + , C ^u 2 + .

More particularly, the silicates that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families .

These clays may be o f natural or synthetic origin. Use is preferably made o f clays which are cosmetically compatible with and acceptable to keratinous substances .

The silicate may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and their mixtures .

Mention may thus be made o f the compounds so ld by the company Laporte under the name Laponite XLG and Laponite XLS .

The silicate or silicates are preferably chosen from bentonites and hectorites .

The silicate or silicates can be modified with a compound chosen from quaternary ammoniums, tertiary amines, aminoacetates, imidazo lines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and their mixtures .

Suitable silicates that may be mentioned include quaternium- 1 8 bentonites, such as those so ld as Bentone 3 , Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those so ld as Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium- 1 8/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those so ld as Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay; quaternium- 1 8 hectorites, such as those so ld as Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel EC05 , Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP , Bentone Gel ISD , Bentone Gel S S7 1 , Bentone Gel VS 8 and Bentone Gel VS38 by Rheox, and Simagel M and Simagel SI 345 by Biophil .

Silicates that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen in particular from mo dified hectorites such as hectorite modified by C 1 0 to C 1 2 fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular distearyl dimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylammonium stearyl chloride .

As explained previously, the mineral fatty-phase thickening agent or agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be silicas .

The silicas that can be used according to the invention are preferably fumed.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature pyrolysis o f a vo latile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This method makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas that bear a large number o f silano l groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are so ld, for example, under the names Aerosil 130 ® , Aerosil 200 ® , Aerosil 255 ® , Aerosil 300 ® and Aerosil 380 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O- Sil HS-5 ® , Cab-O-Sil EH-5 ® , Cab-O-Sil LM- 1 30 ® , Cab-O-Sil MS-55 ® and Cab-O-Sil M-5 ® by the company Cabot.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface o f said silicas by a chemical reaction generating a reduced number o f silanol groups . In particular, silanol groups can be substituted by hydrophobic groups : then a hydrophobic silica is obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be :

(a) trimethylsilyloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence o f hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are named " Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995 ). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R8 12 ® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS- 530 ® by the company Cabot;

(b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence o f polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are named " Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995 ). They are so ld, for example, under the references Aerosi 1 R972 ® and Aerosi 1 R974 ® by the company Degussa and Cab-O- Sil TS-610 ® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ® by the company Cabot.

Preferably, the fumed silicas that may be used in the composition according to the invention are hydrophilic, such as the product sold under the name Aerosil 200 ® .

Preferably, the mineral fatty-phase thickener(s) are chosen from organophilic clays, hydrophilic fumed silicas, and their mixtures .

More preferably, the mineral fatty-phase thickening agents are chosen from hectorites modified by C 1 0 to C 1 2 fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular distearyl dimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylammonium stearyl chloride, and hydrophilic fumed silicas such as hydrophilic silicas sold as "AERO SIL 200 ® " .

Even more preferably, the mineral fatty-phase thickening agents are chosen from hectorites modified by C 1 0 to C 1 2 fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular hectorite modified by distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, such as that sold as Bentone 38VCG by Elementis, and the hectorite modified by benzyldimethylammonium stearyl chloride, such as that sold as Bentone 27V by Elementis .

As explained previously, the mineral fatty-phase thickening agent or agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from fatty-phase organic thickeners .

The organic fatty-phase thickener or thickeners may in particular be chosen from semicrystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters o f saccharides or of polysaccharides, N-acylamino acid amide derivatives, copolymers comprising an alkylene and/or styrene blo ck, and elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, and their mixtures. These copolymers can be di-blo ck, tri-block, multiblock, or radial-block polymers also called star copolymers, or comb polymers .

Preferably, the fatty-phase thickener or thickeners are chosen from mineral thickeners . Even more preferably, the fatty-phase thickener or thickeners are chosen from mineral thickeners o f the silicate type, more preferably from hectorites .

When they are present, the fatty-phase thickener or thickeners may be in a total amount ranging from 0.05 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.075 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a specific embodiment, the fatty phase comprises a mineral thickening agent, in a content greater than 0.05 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase o f the composition according to the invention may also comprise any usually liposo luble or lipodispersible additive such as for example other fatty substances such as waxes, pasty compounds, fatty alcoho ls other than those cited previously, fatty acids and solvents .

The total amount of fatty phase may range from 0.5 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.7%> to 30%> by weight and better still from 1 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the total amount o f aqueous phase varies from 50 to 99% by weight and the total amount of fatty phase varies from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to this particular embodiment, the total amount o f branched fatty substance or substances may preferably vary from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises :

(i) at least one aqueous phase (A) comprising one or more cationic thickening agents comprising at least one unit derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization o f one or more monomers, including one or more monomers having formula (V),

(ii) at least one fatty phase (B) comprising one or more fatty substances chosen from fatty esters and alcohols having formula (VI); the phases (A) and (B) being visually distinct from each other.

In accordance with this embodiment, the cationic thickening agents are chosen from homopolymers that come from monomers having structure (V), copolymers based on acrylamide and monomers having structure (V) and their mixtures .

The water may be present in a total amount greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50%> by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 60%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of water may range from 30% to 98% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95 % by weight and better still from 60% to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio between the total amount o f water and the total amount of branched oils may vary from 1 to 80, preferably from 5 to 70 , and more preferably from 10 to 60.

The aqueous phase (A) and/or the fatty phase (B) of the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additives .

As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of cationic polymers other than the cationic thickening agents present in the aqueous phase according to the invention and anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, so lubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or pearlizing agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, preservatives, pigments and ceramides. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s) .

The above adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each o f them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be obtained by mixing two aqueous (A) and fatty (B) phases using one or more static mixers.

In particular, to make the composition according to the invention, the ingredients in the aqueous phase (A) are mixed separately to the ingredients of the fatty phase (B) . Each of the phases is made in a tank that is for it alone. Each phase is then introduced separately into a static mixer, namely a tube inside which is a three- dimensional structure promoting the appearance of turbulence during the passage o f a fluid. The phases are mixed by a static device, i. e. a device that is not powered by a rotating system. The blades o f the elements o f the static mixer continually divide the components into layers and stretch them through the entire piping section to give the sought after final visual appearance.

According to a preferred embodiment, the visual appearance is of the "marbled" type. This "marbled" visual appearance may be modified as a function o f the number o f mixing elements used and the amount of fatty phase (B) in the aqueous phase (A) .

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the said fibres an effective amount of a composition as described above, and then, after an optional leave-on time, removing it by rinsing.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is rinsed off.

The keratin fibres may optionally be dried in the presence of or absence of a heat source. The composition may be applied to dry or damp keratin fibres, and particularly to damp keratin fibres.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to damp keratin fibres, after applying a washing composition of the shampoo type.

The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described hereinbefore in the cosmetic treatment o f keratin fibres and in particular hair.

The cosmetic treatment is preferably a care treatment.

According to the present application, "keratin fibres" means human keratin fibres and more specifically hair.

The fo llowing examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES :

In the examp les that fo llow, all the amounts are given, unless otherwise indicated, as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (AI : active ingredient) .

I . Compositions tested

The fo llowing aqueous phases, A l and A2, according to the invention have been prepared from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.

Al A2

Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene

2.5

glyco l dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) - ( 1 .25 AI)

PPG- 1 trideceth-6 ( 1 )

Polyquaternium-37 (2) - 1 .25 AI

Phenoxyethano l 0.7 0.7

Caprylyl glycol 0.4 0.4

Ethoxylated (PEG-40) and

0.9 0.9 hydrogenated castor oil Preserving agent, fragrance qs qs

Co lorant (Red 33) qs qs

Water qs 100% qs 100%

AI : active ingredient

( 1 ) Salcare SC 96 (BASF)

(2) Cosmedia Ultragel 300 (Cognis) The fo llowing fatty phase, B, according to the invention, has been prepared from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.

II . Procedure

First the aqueous phases A l and A2 are prepared and secondly the fatty phase B, according to a totally cooled process to reduce their manufacturing time . The compositions are then stored and packaged in the tank.

The fatty phase B was dispersed first in the aqueous phase A l and secondly in the aqueous phase A2 using two static mixer elements of the 1 0 mm diameter SMX Sulzer type.

The two following cosmetic compositions are produced:

- C I comprising 95 % by weight of aqueous phase A l and 5 % by weight of fatty phase B, relative to the total weight of the final composition, and

- C2 comprising 95 % by weight of aqueous phase A2 and 5 % by weight of fatty phase B, relative to the total weight of the final composition, that were prepared according to the following embodiment.

10 g of resulting compositions C I and C2 were applied homogeneously, from the roots to the tips to damp hair, previously treated with a washing composition (of the shampoo type) . The hair was then rinsed with water and dried.

III . Results

Two assessments were made : the first on damp hair and the second on dry hair.

It is observed that the compositions according to the invention have a more melting feel and that they also remain less on the hair's surface; this means they can be rinsed faster by water relative to a classic shampoo .

The damp hairs, treated with these compositions, have a smoother feel, they are more individualized, more toned and less heavy.