The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions more particularly intended to be applied to the face in order to generate a radiance or luminous effect thereon.

The search for novel makeup effects is an ongoing endeavor in the field of makeup, and most particularly of the face. In particular, there is an expectation on the part of users for a light effect on the complexion. This light effect should give the user a "healthy appearance" effect, i.e. an effect which is such as to afford a glowing, natural, radiant complexion, while at the same time maintaining transparency and the natural look of the skin.

A certain number of foundation formulations have already been developed in an attempt to satisfy these needs.

Some of these formulations are based on the use of a nacreous system that effectively affords a glossy effect. Unfortunately, this effect lacks a scattering effect, which is necessary for obtaining a totally natural result.

Other facial makeup formulations are based on the use of one or more glossy oils. The glossy effect is effectively obtained, but it unfortunately proves to be exacerbated over time by the production of sebum. Skin thus made up is then perceived as having a greasy effect rather than a "light" effect.

FR 2 921 263, FR 3 011 178, FR 2 848 825, FR 2 998 781, US 2005/0036964 and FR 2 865 386 describe compositions for care for and/or make up keratin materials comprising glossy oils and particles. FR 2 817 476 and FR 2 968 979 also describe compositions with scattering particles.

However, none of these compositions allows the users to obtain a light effect, devoid of a negative "greasy" effect when applied on the keratin materials.

There is thus still a need for cosmetic formulations, more particularly devoted towards caring for and/or making up facial skin, which are capable of affording a light effect but which are free of the abovementioned drawbacks.

More precisely, there is still a need for cosmetic formulations for affording the light effect desired by consumers, combined with a natural effect free of the shiny effect by which greasy skin is generally qualified. The object of the present invention is, precisely, to satisfy these expectations.

Thus, the present invention describes a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising at least one oily phase partly formed from at least one non- volatile glossy oil, and comprising an effective amount of non-platelet organic or mineral scattering particles, with a median size D50 of greater than 5 microns by volume.

According to one of its aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising at least one oily phase partly formed from at least one non- volatile glossy oil, and comprising an effective amount of non-platelet organic or mineral scattering particles, with a median size D50 of greater than 5 microns by volume,

said composition further comprising at least one non-volatile oil other than said nonvolatile glossy oil, with a non-volatile glossy oil(s)/non-volatile non-glossy oil(s) volume ratio (Ratio o/nvo):

„ . ^ olUYflB 'non- volatile qlossy oiZ(s) % „

Ratw _o/nvo =— ^u -— _0/ 100

V OLUT7l6 _n on— volatile non— glossy oiZ(s) '°

of greater than 10, and

said composition containing a scattering particle(s)/non-volatile oil(s) volume ratio (Ratio _S p/ _nvo ):

_D . VolUTne _sca tt _er (ng particle(s) °/° -i nn tiCLtlO _S p jnvo — —r.— ΤΓΓ- X 1UU

v olume non-volatile oil{s) %

of between 2 and 11.5, the percentages being expressed relative to the total volume percentage of the composition.

The term "keratin materials" especially means the skin, the lips, the eyebrows and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the eyebrows, preferably the skin and especially facial skin.

The present invention is based on the combined use of a glossy system and a light-scattering system. Contrary to all expectation, the combination under consideration according to the invention makes the "light" effect persist significantly throughout the day.

This effect is especially demonstrated in the examples below.

The invention thus uses an effective amount of scattering particles with at least one glossy oil, which is advantageously non-volatile.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" means the amount of non-platelet organic or mineral scattering particles necessary to give said composition the desired scattering properties. As stated previously, the organic or mineral particles are of non-platelet configuration. In this respect, they are different from nacres.

However, according to one embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention may also include an auxiliary particulate glossy system, especially in platelet form, such as nacres.

According to the present invention, a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one non-volatile oil other than a non-volatile glossy oil.

Advantageously, the non-volatile glossy oil(s) and non-volatile oil(s) other than a non-volatile glossy oil are present in the composition in a non-volatile glossy oil(s)/non- volatile oil(s) other than non- volatile glossy oil(s) volume ratio of greater than 15 and preferably greater than 20.

According to the invention, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, or in the form of an anhydrous composition.

According to a first preferred embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, and preferably in the form of a W/O inverse emulsion.

According to a second preferred embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition.

A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow, or alternatively a body makeup product, a skin coloring product or a care product such as a care cream or a tinted cream, and is preferably a foundation.

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up the skin, especially facial skin, characterized in that a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin.

GLOSSY OIL

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

According to the invention, the glossy oil is advantageously a non- volatile oil.

The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on keratin materials, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The non- volatile glossy oil preferably has a high molar mass ranging from 650 g/mol to 10 000 g/mol and preferably between 750 g/mol and 7500 g/mol.

Preferably, the glossy oil is a non-volatile polar glossy oil.

The non-volatile glossy oils that are suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously be chosen from lipophilic polymers, esters, silicone oils, oils of plant origin, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the glossy oils that are suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously be chosen from:

■ lipophilic polymers such as:

- polybutylenes, in particular such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and INDOPOL L H-1500 (MW = 2 160 g/mol), sold or manufactured by the company AMOCO,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, in particular such as PANALANE H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g/mol), VlSEAL 20000, sold or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g/mol), and REWOPAL PIB 1000, sold or manufactured by the company WlTCO (MW = 1000 g/mol), - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, in particular such as Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

- vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in particular such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1- hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol),

^■ esters such as:

- linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, in particular for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g/mol),

- hydroxylated esters, in particular such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g/mol), or diisostearyl malate, sold, for example, under the reference SCHE CEMOL DISM ESTER by the company LUBRIZOL,

- aromatic esters, in particular such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g/mol),

- esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols in particular such as those described in patent application EP 0 955 039 Al, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g/mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate (MW = 1232 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2- decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g/mol),

- a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated, in particular for instance the succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech,

- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula:

HO-Ri -(-OCO-R ₂ -COO-R ₁ -) _h -OH

in which Ri represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid, R ₂ represents a hydrogenated dilinoleyl diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9 and in particular the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers, especially such as those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5 ^® and DD-DA7 ^® ; ^■ silicone oils such as phenyl silicones, in particular such as Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g/mol), phenyl trimethicones especially such as the product sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning, phenyl dimethicones, pheny ltrimethy lsilo xy dipheny lsilo xanes , diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes; and

^■ oils of plant origin, for instance sesame oil (MW = 820 g/mol).

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile glossy oil chosen from ester oils, silicone oils, in particular containing long chains and/or aromatic, and mixtures thereof.

As mentioned previously, the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention is only partly formed from a non-volatile glossy oil or a mixture of non-volatile glossy oils.

Furthermore, the non- volatile glossy oils that are suitable for use in the invention advantageously have a solubility defect in the oily phase containing them.

More precisely, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention, considered at a temperature of about 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, contains less than 5% by weight (i.e. 5 g of glossy oil in 100 ml of the oily system), and preferably less than 3% by weight of non- volatile glossy oil(s) in a dissolved form.

In other words, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention is not a single phase or alternatively not homogeneous. This state may especially be observed after centrifugation of the oily phase, which then shows two distinct phases.

The effect of this solubility defect is to make the glossy oil migrate to the surface of the deposit applied especially to the skin, and thus allows the glossy effect of this oil to be fully exploited.

In this respect, according to the present invention, the compositions according to the invention contains one or more non-volatile glossy oils with a non-volatile glossy oil(s)/non- volatile non-glossy oil(s) volume ratio (Ratio ₀ / _nvo ) which may especially be calculated according to the following convention:

Volume non—vvoo;latile glossy oiZ(s) %

Ratio, o/nvo x 100

Volume non—vo; atile non— glossy oiZ(s) % of greater than 10, preferentially greater than 15 and ideally greater than 20, the percentages being expressed relative to the total volume percentage of the composition.

SCATTERING PARTICLES

As stated previously, a composition according to the invention also contains an effective amount of non-platelet organic or mineral scattering particle(s), with a median size D50 of greater than 5 microns by volume, for the purposes of scattering light.

These scattering particles are characterized by their morphology and size.

According to a preferred embodiment, the scattering particles have a median size D50 by volume of greater than 6 microns, preferably greater than 10 microns and ideally greater than 15 microns.

The term "median size D50" means the mean particle diameter. In other words, this means that for a distribution by volume, 50% of the total volume of the particles corresponds to the volume of the particles having a diameter less than the median size D50.

For example, the particle sizes of aerogels may be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

In terms of morphology, the scattering particles may advantageously have a non-platelet shape, for example spherical or ovoid.

As non-limiting illustrations of scattering particles that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of organic scattering particles chosen from acrylate copolymers, celluloses, "Expancel" particles, polymethyl methacrylates, polyamides, polyethylenes, PMSS silicones, starches, and waxes, and mineral scattering particles chosen from carbonates, glass beads and silica microspheres, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, as scattering particles that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of:

- organic scattering particles chosen from: - acrylate copolymers, in particular such as those sold under the name Sunspheres Powder by Rohm & Haas, and whose median size D50 is 39.40 microns,

- celluloses, in particular such as those sold under the name Avicel PH 105 by FMC, and whose median size D50 is 21.64 microns,

- "Expancel" particles, in particular such as those sold under the name Expancel

551 DE 40 D42 by Expancel, and whose median size D50 is 36.13 microns,

- polymethyl methacrylates, in particular such as those sold under the name COVABEAD LH 85 by LCW, or GANG PEARL GMP-0800 by GANZ CHEMICAL, and whose median size D50 is 7.38 microns, or under the name GANG PEARL GMP-0820 by GANZ CHEMICAL, and whose median size D50 is 8.50 microns,

- polyamides, in particular such as those sold under the name Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS by Arkema, and whose median size D50 is 19.92 microns, or under the name ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS or ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS 204 (Vegetal) by ARKEMA, and whose median size D50 is 8.90 microns,

- polyethylenes, in particular such as those sold under the name Acumist B-6 by

Allied Chemical Honeywell, and whose median size D50 is 7.45 microns, under the name Microsilk 418 by Micro Powders, and whose median size D50 is 11.69 microns, or under the name MiCROPOLY 220 L by MICRO POWDERS, and whose median size D50 is 9.59 microns,

- PMSS silicones, in particular such as those sold under the name Wacker Belsil

PMS MK Powder by Wacker, and whose median size D50 is 19.50 microns,

- starches, in particular such as those sold under the name Amidon de Mais B by Roquette, and whose median size D50 is 13.45 microns, under the name Tech-0 # 11-070 by Beacon, and whose median size D50 is 29.13 microns, under the name Farmal CS 3650 Plus 036500 by CORN PRODUCTS INTERNATIONAL, and whose median size D50 is 13.64 microns, or under the name REMY DR I (Irradiated) by REMY, and whose median size D50 is 21.83 microns, and

- waxes, in particular such as those sold under the name Microcare 350 by Micro Powders, and whose median size D50 is 9.26 microns, and

- mineral scattering particles chosen from:

- carbonates, in particular such as those sold under the name Carbomag PHXL by Solvay, Precipitated extra-light P.E. magnesium carbonate by SCORA, CARBOMAG EL MAGNESIUM CARBONATE by BUSCHLE & LEPPER, and whose median size D50 is 7.00 microns, or under the name LDR CA-35 by TOSHI I PIGMENT, and whose median size D50 is 44.80 microns,

- glass beads, in particular such as those sold under the name Luxsil ^® Cosmetic Microspheres by Potters Industries, and whose median size D50 is 10.43 microns, and

- silica microspheres, in particular such as those sold under the name MSS-500/20N by KOBO, and whose median size D50 is 17.03 microns, or under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 by MlYOSHl KASEI, and whose median size D50 is 10 microns.

As scattering particles that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of those chosen from polyamides, silica microspheres, perlites and polymethacrylates.

Needless to say, a composition according to the invention may comprise a single type of scattering particle or a mixture of at least two, or even more, types of scattering particles.

In a preferential embodiment of the invention, the scattering particles may also have sebum-absorbing power. This property makes it possible to overcome the deleterious effect of the unabsorbed sebum on the "light" effect revealing a "shiny skin" effect.

As illustrations of the particles in accordance with the invention endowed with sebum-absorbing power, mention may be made especially of organic or mineral particles chosen from:

- organic scattering particles chosen from those sold under the name SUNSPHERES POWDER by ROHM & HAAS, and whose median size D50 is 39.40 microns, or under the name ORGASOL 2002 D NAT COS by ARKEMA, and whose median size D50 is 19.92 microns; and

- mineral scattering particles chosen from those sold under the name Carbomag PHXL by Solvay, Precipitated extra-light P.E. magnesium carbonate by SCORA, CARBOMAG EL MAGNESIUM CARBONATE by BUSCHLE & LEPPER, and whose median size D50 is 7.00 microns, or under the name LDR CA-35 by TOSHIKI PIGMENT, and whose median size D50 is 44.80 microns. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile glossy oil chosen from ester oils and/or silicone oils, especially containing long chains and/or aromatic, and at least scattering particles chosen from polyamides, silica microspheres, perlites and/or polymethacrylates.

Advantageously, the non-volatile glossy oil(s) and non-platelet organic or mineral scattering particle(s) with a median size D50 by volume of greater than 5 microns are present in the composition in a non-volatile glossy oil(s)/scattering particle(s) volume ratio of between 2 and 11.5, preferably between 3 and 11 and more preferentially between 4 and 10.

According to the present invention, the volume of scattering particle(s) is adjusted to the volume of non-volatile oil(s).

The term "volume of non-volatile oil(s)" means the total volume of non- volatile oils included in a composition according to the invention, namely the non- volatile glossy oils and the non-volatile non-glossy oils.

Thus, according to the present invention, these scattering particles are used in a scattering particle(s)/non- volatile oil(s) volume ratio (Ratio _sp / _nvo ) which may be calculated especially according to the following convention:

_D . ^ olUTTie scattering particle(s)%

KCLtlO _S p — —z— —— X 1UU

V OLUme non-volatile oiZ(s) %

of between 2 and 11.5, preferentially between 3 and 1 1 and ideally between 4 and 10, the percentages being expressed relative to the total volume percentage of the composition.

COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Needless to say, the compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to keratin materials, especially the skin and more particularly to facial skin, the lips and the nails. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the product is to be applied. They also contain ingredients usually selected for the formulation of cosmetic compositions intended for care and/or makeup.

In particular, as specified above, the non-volatile glossy oil(s) that they contain constitute only a fraction of their oily phase.

Oily phase

For the purposes of the invention, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention is formed from the oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents, in liquid form at room temperature, which may be present in the composition of the invention.

Advantageously, the oily phase according to the invention may comprise one or more auxiliary oils different from those considered previously.

This or these auxiliary oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

A composition according to the invention also comprises at least one non- volatile oil other than a non- volatile glossy oil.

As illustrations of these oils, examples that may be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R ₁ COOR ₂ and R ₁ OR ₂ in which Ri represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (PRISORINE 3631);

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly;

- volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of those described in patent application WO 2007/068 371 from the company Cognis. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C ₁₀ ), n-undecane (Cn), n- dodecane (C ₁₂ ), n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ), n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) n-pentadecane (C ₁₅ ), n-hexadecane (C ₁₆ ) and n-heptadecane (Cn), and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) such as the products sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.

- silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;

- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol);

- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, for instance those described in document JP-A-2-295 912;

- esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and even better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and of at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, and dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product which is sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis;

- fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis);

- glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexyl glycerol) such as SENSIVA SC 50 from the company SCHULKE & MAY GMBH; and

- mixtures thereof.

The oily phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 20% to 80%, better still ranging from 25% to 65% and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The non-volatile glossy oil(s) and non-volatile oil(s) other than a glossy oil are present in the composition in a non-volatile glossy oil(s)/non-volatile oil(s) other than nonvolatile glossy oil(s) volume ratio of greater than 10, preferably greater than 15 and more preferentially greater than 20.

In addition to the oils indicated above, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances, such as:

- fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance stearic acid;

- silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C4)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone;

- silicone gums (dimethiconol);

- non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the name KSG 6 or KSG 16 by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries;

- waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrocarbon-based oils that are concrete at 25°C, synthetic waxes, silicone waxes; - fatty esters and glycerides that are concrete at 25°C;

- pasty fatty substances;

- butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, muru muru butter, cupuacu butter; and

- mixtures thereof.

Other particulate materials different from the scattering particles required according to the invention

A composition according to the invention advantageously contains at least one or even several other types of particulate materials, optionally intended for coloring, or even capable of affording a gloss or metallic effect.

This auxiliary material may thus be chosen from conventional fillers, preferably in platelet form, pigments, particulate materials preferably in platelet form, which are capable of affording a particulate gloss effect, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, the proportion of this type of material is adjusted so as not to harm the effect, concomitantly afforded by the combination of the non-volatile glossy oil and the scattering system, which is required according to the invention.

According to an advantageous embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention also contains at least one particulate material of filler type and of platelet form.

As non-limiting illustrations of this material, mention may be made especially of mineral fillers such as micas, perlites and certain phyllosilicates especially such as sericite.

Thus, a composition according to the invention also preferably contains at least one particulate material of filler type and of platelet form chosen from mineral fillers, and preferably from micas, perlite and/or sericite.

As non-limiting examples of auxiliary platelet fillers, mention may be made especially of fillers chosen from those:

- sold under the name MlCA CONCORD 1000 by SciAMA, whose median size D50 is 8.40 microns, - sold under the names MEA LMICA ISVA (MEARLMICA MMSV) or MEARLMICA TREATED SVA MM/ISVA by BASF ENGELHARD, whose median size is 9.03 microns,

- sold under the names MEARLMICA CF MM/CF or MEARLMICA MMCF by BASF ENGELHARD, whose median size is 20.40 microns,

- sold under the name ASC-10 SERICITE FSE by DAITO KASEI (from SANSHIN), whose median size D50 is 10.09 microns,

- sold under the names SYNTHECITE FNK 100 or SYNTHETIC SERICITE FNK-100 (OA) by TOPY, whose median size is 7.67 microns,

- sold under the name SYNAFIL SI 15 by ECKART, whose median size D50 is 8.00 microns,

- sold under the name SI01-2 MICA PDM-5L by DAITO KASEI (from TOPY), whose median size D50 is 7.52 microns,

- sold under the name PDM-10L by TOPY, whose median size D50 is 12.60 microns,

- sold under the name RONAFLAIR SOFT SPHERE by MERCK, whose median size D50 is 15.20 microns, and

- sold under the name OPTIMAT 2550 OR by PERLITE, whose median size D50 is 23.10 microns. Contrary to all expectation, the inventors have noted that if the non-platelet scattering system according to the invention is used in combination with at least one such platelet filler, the radiant-complexion effect is improved. Specifically, such a platelet filler makes it possible to sustain the scattering effect of the non-platelet scattering system according to the invention.

Advantageously, the ratio between the median size D50 by volume of the non- platelet organic or mineral scattering particles and the median size D50 by volume of the platelet fillers is at least equal to 0.6 and preferably at least equal to 0.7.

According to another advantageous embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention also contains at least one particulate material chosen from pigments and particulate materials that are capable of affording a gloss effect, especially such as nacres and/or particles with metallic glints. The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to color and/or opacify the composition containing them.

The pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.

As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL- 100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a particulate ingredient that is capable of affording particulate gloss.

The expression "ingredient for affording particulate gloss" means any solid component that has substantial specular reflection provided either by interference or by metallic reflection.

According to a preferred embodiment, such components have a median size D50 by volume of less than 40 microns, preferentially less than 35 microns and ideally less than 30 microns.

Such components may be chosen especially from white and/or colored nacres, especially with glints, and particles with a metallic glint.

The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference. The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particle with a metallic glint" means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish allow it to reflect the incident light, especially in a non- iridescent manner.

Illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC ^® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart and glass particles coated with a metallic layer, especially those described in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A- 10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

The pulverulent dyestuffs as described previously may be totally or partially surface-treated, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the lipophilic phase of the composition of the invention, especially so that they have good wettability with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.

Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in document EP-A-

1 086 683. When the composition comprises any, the content of nacres and/or particles with metallic glints may represent from 0.01% to 7% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

According to a first variant of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 2% by weight and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water, or even is free of water, i.e. anhydrous.

According to a second variant of the invention, the composition of the invention is an emulsion, and comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 20% to 80% by weight and preferably from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The continuous aqueous phase may be formed essentially from water. It may also comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, if the aqueous phase comprises one or more water-miscible solvents, the water-miscible solvent(s)/water weight ratio ranges from 0.06 to 0.6 and preferably from 0.1 to 0.5.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention, especially when it is in the form of an emulsion, may also comprise at least one surfactant.

The surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of this reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

The composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactant, and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl (ether) sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 and in particular C12-C20 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactants may be chosen from:

- alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate; and

- ammonium salts, such as (C12-30 alkyl)tri(C _1-4 alkyl) ammonium halides, for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl amino acetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants.

Thus, according to a second embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one silicone surfactant.

The term "silicone surfactant" means a silicone compound that contains a hydrophilic chain and that is capable of emulsifying an aqueous phase in an oily phase. This silicone surfactant may be chosen from a group comprising emulsifying silicone elastomers, dimethicone copolyols, alkyl dimethicone copolyols, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant is chosen from the group of dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols.

As dimethicone copolyols that are particularly suitable for use in the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols comprising oxyethylene groups and oxypropylene groups such as the product comprising 18 oxyethylene groups and 18 oxypropylene groups, for instance the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the names Dow Corning 3225 C and Dow Corning 5225 C (INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane/PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone) by the company Dow Corning, and the product comprising 14 oxyethylene groups and 14 oxypropylene groups, for instance the mixture of dimethicone copolyol and of cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) sold under the name Abil EM97 by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane). Use may also be made of dimethicone copolyols comprising only oxyethylene groups, such as the products sold under the trade names KF-6015 (INCI name: PEG-3 dimethicone) or KF-6017 (INCI name: PEG- 10 dimethicone) by the company Shin-Etsu.

Examples of alkyl dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those comprising a C10-C22 alkyl group, such as lauryl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Q2-5200 by the company Dow Corning, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt, oleyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name KF-6026 by the company Shin- Etsu, and stearyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name X-22- 904 by the company Shin-Etsu. It is preferably cetyl dimethicone copolyol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, use is made, as silicone surfactant, of an alkyl dimethicone copolyol bearing an alkyl radical comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) sold under the name Abil EM-97 by the company Goldschmidt, lauryl dimethicone copolyol, for example the mixture of about 91% lauryl dimethicone copolyol and about 9% isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Q2-5200 by the company Dow Corning, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant is chosen from the group of compounds of INCI name: PEG- 10 dimethicone and cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. When it is present in the composition, the content of surfactant(s) ranges from

0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain auxiliary coloring agents, which are especially water-soluble or liposoluble, water-soluble active agents, resistance agents, especially film- forming polymers, gelling agents, thickeners, preserving agents, fragrances, flavorings, liposoluble UV-screening agents, bactericides, odor absorbers, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, for instance calcium carbonate, or acidic agents, for instance citric acid or lactic acid.

It is a matter of routine operations for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.

As mentioned above, advantageously, a composition according to the invention also comprises a polymer for improving its resistance.

Such polymers are preferably chosen from film-forming polymers, and in particular hydrophobic film-forming polymers.

In particular, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer chosen from the group comprising:

- film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and forms a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated into the medium;

- film-forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium, which means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and/or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone oils or hydrocarbon-based oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as NADs;

- film- forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, which means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, the polymer remaining stable and/or compatible once incorporated into the water, the polymer particles possibly being stabilized at their surface with at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often known as latices.

Hydrophobic film-forming polymers that may especially be mentioned include homopolymers and copolymers of a compound bearing an ethylenic unit, acrylic polymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyureas, cellulose-based polymers such as nitrocellulose, silicone polymers such as silicone resins, silicone polyamides, polymers bearing a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes.

As hydrophobic film-forming polymers that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer derivative.

Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit that may be particularly suitable for use in the present invention are, for example, the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-101, TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220, FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow CORNING. Use will preferably be made of the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202) and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow CORNING.

Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit that may be used in a composition of the invention is an acrylate/polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer, especially the product sold in isododecane under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate by the company Dow Corning.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight and even more preferentially from 5% to 15% by weight of hydrophobic film- forming polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENICAL FORM

More specifically, the compositions according to the invention may be makeup products, preferably of the type such as foundations, makeup bases, face powders, eyeshadows, concealer products or blushers, or alternatively a makeup product and/or a product for coloring the skin, the hair or the eyelashes, and in particular foundations.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a makeup base or a foundation, and in particular a foundation.

Likewise, the compositions according to the invention may be products for caring for the skin, the hair or the eyelashes, and more particularly the skin, and preferably a composition for protecting, treating or caring for the face, for example a day cream, night cream, antisun composition, protective or care body milk or after-sun milk, and more preferably a facial care composition.

In addition, the compositions under consideration according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk or a paste.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The terms "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and the examples, the percentages are percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated. The percentages are thus given on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition. Unless otherwise specified, the ingredients are mixed in the order and under conditions that are readily determined by a person skilled in the art.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the non-limiting examples presented below.

EXAMPLES

Foundation formulations in accordance and not in accordance with the invention are prepared as described below. The formulations are prepared using the weight proportions described below. The percentages are given on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition Composition

Composition Composition 1 according 2 according

Phases Compounds 3 outside the 4 outside the to the to the

invention invention invention invention

PEG- 10 DIMETHICONE 1.66 1.73 1.73 2.00

CETYL PEG/PPG- 10/1 DIMETHICONE 0.83 0.86 0.86 1.00

CAPRYLYL METHICONE 6.80 6.47 6.47 8.20

ISODODECANE 0.83 0.86 0.86 1.00

Al ISOHEXADECANE 1.33 1.38 1.38 1.60

ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 2.49 2.59 2.59 3.00

DlISOSTEARYL MALATE sold under the

reference SCHERCEMOL DlSM ESTER by 10.00 10.00 10.00 0.00 the company LUBRIZOL

ACRYLATES/POLYTRIMETHYLSILOXYME

THACRYLATE COPOLYMER sold under the

A2 reference DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID 9.61 10.00 10.00 10.00

SILICONE ACRYLATE by the company

Dow CORNING

IRON OXIDES (AND) DISODIUM STEAROYL

GLUTAMATE (AND) ALUMINUM 1.73 1.30 1.30 1.30 HYDROXIDE

IRON OXIDES (AND) DISODIUM STEAROYL

GLUTAMATE (AND) ALUMINUM 0.53 0.40 0.40 0.40 HYDROXIDE

A3 IRON OXIDES (AND) DISODIUM STEAROYL

GLUTAMATE (AND) ALUMINUM 0.15 0.11 0.11 0.11 HYDROXIDE

TITANIUM DIOXIDE (AND) DISODIUM

STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AND) 9.59 7.19 7.19 7.19 ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE

CAPRYLYL METHICONE 6.22 7.08 7.08 7.50

SILICA sold under the reference SILICA

BEAD SB-700 by the company MlYOSHI 0.60 0.60 0.00 1.00 KASEI

Nylon- 12 sold under the reference

Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS by the 1.80 1.80 0.00 3.00

A4 company Arkema

PERLITE sold under the reference

ΟΡΤΙΜΑΤ 2550 OA by the company 0.12 0.12 0.00 0.20 WORLD MINERALS

TALC sold under the reference LUZENAC

1.68 1.68 4.20 0.00 PHARMA UM by the company LUZENAC

A5 FRAGRANCE 0.29 0.30 0.30 0.30

WATER 30.65 31.85 31.85 37.50

Bl BUTYLENE GLYCOL 4.90 5.09 5.09 6.00

MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.57 0.59 0.59 0.70

B2 ALCOHOL 7.62 8.00 8.00 8.00 The components of phase Al are mixed together with stirring for 30 minutes at 1000 rpm using a Turbo lab 2500 from the company Guerin, equipped with a shaft of the rotor-stator type, at room temperature.

The components of phase A2 are added to phase Al , and the whole is homogenized for 30 minutes under the same conditions.

Phase A3 is weighed out and the pigments are then dispersed using a three-roll mill (three treatments).

Phase A3 is then added to the preceding mixture. The mixture is homogenized for 20 minutes at room temperature.

Phase A4 is prepared and is then incorporated into the other phases in small portions, and the mixture is homogenized for 10 minutes, at room temperature.

Phase A5 is added.

Phase Bl is prepared and added in a gentle stream to the preparation. Emulsification is performed for 10 minutes at 4000 rpm, at room temperature.

Phase B2 is added and the mixture is homogenized for 5 minutes at 1000 rpm, at room temperature.

The compositions according to the invention make it possible to have the ratios Ratio _0/nvo and Ratio _sp/nvo below:

The light effect of the four compositions was tested by 120 users having skin with a very clear to medium-clear complexion, using fluid foundations daily. Each user tested each composition for two days.

The results are given in the following table:

Composition Composition

Composition Composition

1 according 2 according

3 outside the 4 outside the to the to the

invention invention

invention invention

Light effect Yes Yes No No Thus, in contrast with the compositions not in accordance with the present invention, the foundations according to the invention allowed the users to obtain the desired light effect. By means of the formulations according to the invention, they observed a "light-mediated healthy appearance" look accompanied by a natural result, without any associated "greasy" effect, not afforded by the compositions not in accordance with the invention.