TITLE: COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A COMBINATION OF VANILLIN OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES, AROMATIC ALCOHOL AND ALIPHATIC MONOALCOHOL

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising water and: i) at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral basic salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates, preferably vanillin, ii) at least one aromatic alcohol, preferably benzyl alcohol, and iii) at least one aliphatic monoalcohol in C2 to C& - with the understanding that:

- the weight ratio ii)/i) is greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than 1 ; and

- the weight ratio iii)/ii) is greater than or equal to 1 ; preferably greater than 1 .

Microorganisms can survive and multiply in products containing water, whether they are cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food products. Preservatives are generally added to industrial preparations intended to be stored or preserved to prevent microbial growth over time.

Microbial contamination can occur during the manufacture of industrial products, even when initial ingredients placed in said products are "clean", i.e., devoid of contaminant microorganisms. Water for example, which is omnipresent in most cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food products, must be free from contaminant microorganisms. The other ingredients must also undergo screening for the presence of contaminant microorganisms. Cleanliness during the manufacture of these industrial products, the processing of content and filling of containers must be monitored meticulously. Despite these precautions, the microbial integrity of the products may require the presence of one or more preservative agents compatible with the product and the stability of the composition. The preservative agents must not allow the growth or viability of the contaminant microorganisms.

Although restrictive production in a sterile environment may be industrially feasible, maintaining sterility over repeated uses represents a problem in its own right, in particular when the products can be touched by fingers and/or instruments such as applicators, and/or the container thereof can be open and closed, as all these handlings are sources of contamination. It is common to introduce chemical preservatives into cosmetic or dermatological compositions intended to combat the development or microorganisms. The compositions must in particular be protected from those able to develop inside the composition, for example when they are manufactured, and also against those that the user could introduce by handling it, in particular when grasping products in a pot with fingers.

Among the commonly used chemical preservatives, mention can be made of parabens, organic acids or formol-releasing compounds.

Some of these preservatives are controversial, others can cause irritation, in particular on sensitive skin, when they are present in relatively substantial amounts. The compounds that can be used for the microbial protection of particularly cosmetic compositions must moreover be stable, in order to ensure the efficacy thereof over time and not exhibit solubility, odor and/or compatibility characteristics that render them difficult to use. It is moreover desirable to diversify the compounds that can be used in antimicrobial protection so as not to generate resistances. The effectiveness of the preservatives conventionally used is variable and their formulation can cause problems, in particular in terms of incompatibility, even destabilization, of the formulas, in particular emulsions. It is for example known that an acid pH favors microbiological protection, but this can harm the stability of emulsions, in particular if the surfactants are anionic or amphoteric.

There is also a need to formulate compositions that comprise several antimicrobials, that remain stable over time, and that do not in particular change in aspect and/or color over time, even after several weeks even several months of storage at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, in particular comprised between 37 and 45°C.

Finally in the cosmetic coloring field, in particular foundations, it is interesting to have an effective microbiological protection of the lighter colors (color depth comprised between 7 and 9) which generally have a higher pH often subsequent to the presence of pigment(s) such as titanium dioxide in an aqueous composition while maintaining the storage stability of the darker colors (color depth comprised between 2 and 4).

It therefore remains necessary to find an antimicrobial system that does not have the preceding defects, in particular that is effective without acidification.

The present invention meets these needs.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has identified that combining compounds i), ii) and iii), in particular proportions, makes it possible to obtain an antimicrobial system that is highly effective over a wide spectrum of microorganisms without necessarily having to acidify the aqueous phase. The present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising water and: i) at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral basic salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates, preferably vanillin, ii) at least one aromatic alcohol, preferably benzyl alcohol, and iii) at least one aliphatic monoalcohol in C2 to C& - with the understanding that:

- the weight ratio ii)/i) is greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than 1 ; and

- the weight ratio iii)/ii) is greater than or equal to 1 ; preferably greater than 1 .

The association of i), ii) and iii) of which the weight ratio ii)/i) is greater than or equal to 1 ; and wherein the weight ratio iii)/ii) is greater than or equal to 1 , corresponds to the antimicrobial mixture also called preservative system.

The present invention relates in particular to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising water and: i) at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral basic salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates, preferably vanillin, ii) at least one aromatic alcohol, preferably benzyl alcohol, and iii) at least one aliphatic monoalcohol in C2 to C& ; with the understanding that:

- the quantity of aliphatic monoalcohol in C2 to C& iii) is comprised between 0.25% and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition;

- the weight ratio ii)/i) is greater than or equal to 1 , and

- the weight ratio iii)/ii) is greater than or equal to 1 .

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care and/or makeup and/or cleansing of keratin materials, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.

Preferably the method of the invention is a method of makeup in particular by application of a foundation composition comprising the aforementioned preservative system.

The invention also relates to a method for preserving a composition C1 comprising a physiologically acceptable medium comprising water, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition C1 , which comprises the incorporation of the compounds i), ii) and iii), in the aforementioned proportions, in said composition C1 .

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" denotes a medium compatible with the skin, mucosa and/or appendages (including keratin fibers, particularly human, such as hair).

The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as an antimicrobial agent, in particular against bacterial strains (for example Enterococcus faecalis), yeasts (for example Candida albicans) and/or molds (for example Aspergillus brasiliensis).

I) Vanillin and alkoxylated derivatives

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral basic salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates.

The term "(Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin" denotes vanillin, i.e., 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde and derivatives thereof including a (C2-Ce)alkyl group in the place of methyl of the methoxy at position 3 of 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde.

More specifically the at least one (Ci -Ce) (alkyl) vanillin of the invention has following formula (I):

[Chem 1]

Formula (I) wherein R” represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci- C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl.

A "(Ci-C6)alkyl group" is a linear or branched, saturated Ci-Ce group, preferably C1-C4 ((C1- C4)alkyl group) such as methyl or ethyl.

The at least one (Ci -C6)(alkyl)vanillin , its organic or mineral basic salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, can be of natural or synthetic origin. According to an embodiment of the invention the at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral basic salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, is/are in organic or mineral basic salt form such as alkali metal salts (Na ⁺ , K ⁺ ), alkaline earth metal salts (Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) and ammonium ions.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a quantity of (Ci-

C6)(alkyl)vamlhn, its organic or mineral basic salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, comprised between 0.03% and 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.07% and 0.5% by weight, better between 0.1% and 0.3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment according to the invention, the aforementioned limits of the interval 0.03 and 2% are excluded. ii) Aromatic alcohol

The composition according to the invention comprises one or several aromatic alcohols.

The term "aromatic alcohol" means a compound comprising a phenyl ring substituted by a (Ci-C4)alkyl group substituted by at least one hydroxyl group such as hydroxymethyl or 1 -hydroxyethyl or 2-hydroxyethyl, or a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group of which the alkyl group of said (Ci-C4)alkoxy is substituted by at least one hydroxyl group such as 2- hydroxyethoxy.

Preferably the aromatic alcohol or alcohols ii) are chosen from benzyl alcohol: CeH ₅ - CH ₂ OH, phenylethyl alcohol C6H5-CH2-CH2OH, and phenoxyethanol: C6H5-O-CH2-CH2OH, and their mixtures, preferably benzyl alcohol.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one aromatic alcohol, in particular, benzyl alcohol, in a quantity comprised between 0.25 and 1 .0% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 0.9% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight.

Weight ratio ii)/i)

The weight ratio of the ii)/i) is greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than 1 . Particularly the weight ratio ii)/i) is comprised between 1.1 and 10, particularly comprised between 1.15 and 5, better between 1 .2 and 3.5.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the quantities of ingredients i) and ii) verify the following condition:

The sum [% aromatic alcohol ii) + 3 x (% (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin i)] is comprised between 0.6 and 6, preferable between 0.85% and 4%.

The percentages are given here by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. If there is a mixture of aromatic alcohol for the "% aromatic alcohol" the sum % by weight of all the aromatic alcohols ii) of the composition is taken into consideration. The same applied for a mixture of (Ci -C6)(alkyl)vanillin . Preferably the composition comprises as ingredient i) vanillin and as ingredient ii) benzyl alcohol.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the quantities of ingredients i) and ii) verify the following condition:

The sum [% benzyl alcohol ii) + 3 x (% vanillin i)] is comprised between 0.85% and 4%.

Aliphatic monoalcohol in C2-C6

The aliphatic monoalcohol or monoalcohols according to the invention comprise from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably comprise from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" denotes any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having a single hydroxyl (OH) function. The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions according to the invention can be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof. More specifically, ethanol will be selected.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention comprise an aliphatic monoalcohol in C2-C6, more particularly ethanol, comprised between 0.25% and 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1 % to 4% by weight. pH of the composition

The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally comprised between 5 and 8 approximately, preferably between 5.5 and 7.5.

It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkaline agents routinely used for the treatment of keratin materials or using conventional buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, mention can be made of, the following acids i) hydrochloric acid HCI, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, ill) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk- S(O)2OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar- S(O)2OH such as benzene-sulphonic acid and toluenesulphonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid, x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH ₃ C(O)OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF ₄ . In particular, mineral or organic acids such as defined hereinabove are in particular chosen from hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids. The term "alkaline agents" or "base" denotes an agent for including the pH of the composition wherein it is located. The alkalin izing agent is a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic. Specifically, said agent is selected from a) ammonia, b) (bi)carbonate, c) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives d) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, e) organic amines, f) mineral or organic hydroxides, g) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, h) preferably basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine, and i) compounds having the following formula (F):

[Chem. 2]

Formula (F) wherein:

- W is a divalent Ci-Ce alkylene radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups of a Ci-Ce alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR _U ;

- R _x , R _y , R _z and R _t , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in Ci- Ce or hydroxyalkyl in Ci-Ce, aminoalkyl radical in Ci-Ce.

Mention can be made by way of example of amines having formula (F) of 1 ,3 diaminopropane, 1 ,3 diamino 2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.

The term "alkanolamine" denotes an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Of the mineral or organic hydroxides, mention can be made of those selected from a) alkali metal hydroxides, b) alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, c) transition metal hydroxides, d) lanthanide or actinide hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide, mineral or organic hydroxides a) and b) being preferred.

Of the bases or alkaline agents, mention can be made, by way of example, of the alkaline agents as described hereinafter and particularly of natural alkaline agents, in particular preferably basic amino acids such as arginine.

Preferably the composition according to the invention does not comprise an acidifying agent and/or alkaline agent. iv) Fats

The composition further comprises optionally one or more fats.

The term "fa denotes an organic compound insoluble in water at regular ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1% and even more preferably 0.1%). They have in the structure thereof at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. The fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petrolatum oil or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.

The fat(s) according to the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferably of plant origin. These fats are preferably neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids as salified fatty acids form soaps generally soluble in aqueous medium.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more fats non-liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

Wax(es)

According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more waxes.

The term "wax" according to the present invention denotes a lipophilic compound, solid at ambient temperature (25°C), having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C of up to 200°C and particularly up to 120°C.

In particular, the wax(es) suitable for the invention can have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a wax content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty compound(s)

According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more pasty compounds.

According to the present invention, the term "pasty compound' denotes a lipophilic fat compound having a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The composition according to the invention comprises preferably a content in pasty compounds ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

The liquid compound(s) According to a preferred embodiment of the invention the composition further comprises one or more iv) fats liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, particularly hydrocarbon fats.

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) iv) of the invention is(are) chosen from hydrocarbons in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of plant origin, glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, silicones, and fluorinated oils; in particular hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) are hydrocarbon oils preferably volatile or are a mixture of oils of different volatilities. The hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) iv) are in particular selected from hydrocarbons in Ce-C or with more than 16 carbon atoms up to 50 carbon atoms, preferably between C& and C , and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of plant origin, glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, silicones. It is recalled that, according to the invention, the alcohols, fatty acid esters have more specifically one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group(s), comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three double carbon-carbon bonds, optionally conjugated.

Regarding the alkanes in Ce-C , the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic. As an example, mention can be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane, and their mixtures such as the combination of undecane and tridecane such as for example CETIOL LIT®, or the mixtures of alkanes in C9-C12, preferably of natural origin, in particular linear or branches alkanes, in C9-C12. This mixture is in particular known under the name INCI C9-C12 ALCANE, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthis. This mixture of biodegradable volatile oils, is obtained from coconut oil (viscosity is 0.9-1 .1 cSt (40 °C) and a flash point at 65 °C).

Linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, can be chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, petrolatum oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

According to a very advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats that are one or more hydrocarbon oil. The hydrocarbon oil(s) can be volatile or non-volatile.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) are hydrocarbon oils that are volatile or are a mixture of oils of different volatilities.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fat(s) are linear or branched hydrocarbon oils, which are volatile particularly selected from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixtures of oils of different volatilities preferably comprising isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

According to another particular embodiment the liquid fat(s) iv) are a mixture of a volatile hydrocarbon oil and a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of which the mixture preferably comprises as a volatile oil dodecane or isododecane. According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention the hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) of the invention are a mixture of non-volatile oil(s) and volatile oil(s) preferably the mixture comprises as volatile oil undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, more preferably isododecane. As a mixture of volatile and non-volatile oil mention can be made of isododecane and isononyl isononanoate.

More preferably when the fat(s) are a mixture of volatile and non-volatile oil, the quantity in volatile oil is greater than the quantity of non-volatile oil.

According to another particular embodiment the hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) iv) are a mixture of a volatile oil and a non-volatile oil such as an isododecane/octyldodecanol mixture or a isododecane/isononyl isononanoate mixture.

The hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from: hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular:

- branched alkanes in Cs-Cu such as Cs-Cu isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetyls,

- linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n- tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent WO 2008/155059 of the Cognis company, and their mixtures.

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters and glycerol for which the fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C o C24, with the latter able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818®, preferably jojoba oil;

- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylether;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane, paraffin oils, and their mixtures,

- esters such as oils having formula R ¹ C(O)-O-R ² wherein R ¹ is the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ² is a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the condition that R ¹ + R ² is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoates C12 to C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl- decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol ester and pentaerythritol esters, more preferably linear or branched fatty acid esters in Cs-C and of linear or branched fatty alcohol in C12-C18 alone or in a mixture with alkanes coming from hydrogenation / full reduction of fatty acids coming from Cocos Nucifera oil (Coconut) particularly dodecane or cococaprylate/caprate mixtures with dodecane, mention can be made of those with the INCI name coconut alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate/caprate marketed under the name VEGELIGHT 1212LC® by Grant Industries.

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

The composition in addition to the hydrocarbon liquid fat, can comprise a silicone oil. If the composition contains silicone oil, preferably it is in a quantity that does not exceed 10% by weight in relation to the weight of the composition, more particularly in a quantity less than 5% and more preferably 2%.

In particular, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon liquid fat iv) chosen from:

- vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and of polyols, in particular triglycerides, such as sunflower, sesame or rapeseed, macadamia, soybean oils, sweet almond, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, corn, arara, cotton, apricot, avocado, jojoba, olive or germs of cereals oils, preferably jojoba;

- linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and in particular isononyl isononanoate; and more particularly esters having formula R ^d -C(O)-O-R ^e wherein R ^d is the remainder of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R ^e is a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as palmitates, adipates, myristates and benzoates, in particular diisopropyl adipate and myristate;

- hydrocarbons and in particular volatile or non-volatile linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes, such as isoparaffins in Cs-Ceo, optionally volatile such as isododecane, Parleam (hydrogenated polyisobutene), isohexadecane, cyclohexane, or 'ISOPARs'; or paraffin, petroleum jelly oils, or hydrogenated polyisobutylene; in particular isododcane,

- ethers having 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as dicaprylether;

- aliphatic fatty monoalcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, with the hydrocarbon chain not comprising any substitution group, such as oleic alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol, octyldodecanol and linoleic alcohol; in particular octyldodecanol;

- polyols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as hexylene glycol; and

- their mixtures, such as the combination of undecane and tridecane such as for example CETIOL UT®, preferably isododecane, or the mixtures of linear or branched fatty acid esters in C8-C10 and of fatty alcohol in C12-C18 and of alkanes coming from hydrogenation / full reduction of fatty acids coming from Cocos Nucifera oil (Coconut) particularly dodecane such as cococaprylate/caprate mixtures with dodecane, mention can be made of those with the INCI name coconut alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate/caprate marketed under the name VEGELIGHT 1214LC® by Grant Industries; or the mixtures of alkanes in C9-C12, including chains comprising 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched alkanes, in C9-C12 in particular comprising dodecane, mention can be made of the mixture of oil having INCI name C9-12 ALKANE, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthis.

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one apolar hydrocarbon liquid fat iv), preferably chosen from:

- vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and of polyols, in particular triglycerides, such as sunflower, sesame or rapeseed, macadamia, soybean oils, sweet almond, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, corn, arara, cotton, apricot, avocado, jojoba, olive or germs of cereals oils, preferably jojoba;

- linear or branched alkanes in Cs-Cso, in particular C10-C20, more particularly in C10-C16, volatile or non-volatiles; preferably volatile

- non-aromatic, cyclic alkanes in C5-C12; volatile or non-volatiles; preferably volatile, and

- mixtures thereof.

The hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) iv) are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular having 10 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably volatile, more particularly apolar oils, described hereinabove.

Among the branched alkanes in Cs-Cie, in particular in C10-C14 suitable as liquid hydrocarbon fats iv) in the dispersion of the invention, mention can be made of:

- isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars’ or Permetlys;

- linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (On) and of n- tridecane (C13) of the Cognis company or Cetiol Ultimate sold by the BASF company, and their mixtures.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention the hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) iv) are chosen from vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, volatile oils in particular linear alkanes such as undecane and tridecane and linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular dicaprylyl ether, and their mixtures. v) Surfactants

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more surfactants v). The term "surfactant" denotes a "surface agent" or "surfactant" that is a compound able to modify the surface tension between two surfaces, surfactants are amphiphilic molecules, i.e. that have two parts of different polarity, one is lipophilic and apolar and the other is hydrophilic and polar.

The surfactant or surfactants can be cationic, anionic, nonionic, or zwitterionic, preferably non-ionic or anionic, more preferably anionic.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactant agents.

The term "anionic surfactant agent” means a surfactant that comprises in terms of ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the -C(O)OH, -0(0)0’, -SO3H, -S(O) ₂ O’, -OS(O) ₂ OH, -OS(O) ₂ O-, -P(O)OH ₂ , -P(O) ₂ O-, - P(O)O ₂ -, -P(OH) ₂ , =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O-, =P(O)O-, =POH, =PO- groups, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkaline metal, an alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium.

As examples of anionic surfactant agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention can be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylisethionates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfo-acetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltau rates, the salts of alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkylethercarboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then comprise preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of alkyl monoesters in Ce-C ₂ 4 and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from alkyl polyglycoside-citrates in Ce-C ₂ 4, alkylpolyglycoside-tartrates in Ce-C ₂ 4 and alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates in Ce-C ₂ 4.

When the anionic surfactant agent or agents are in the form of salt, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As examples of aminoalcohol salts, mention can be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl -1 - propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl -1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxy-)amino methane. Use will preferably be made of alkali or alkali earth metal and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Among the anionic surfactant agents mentioned, it is preferred to use alkyl(C6-C24)sulfates, alkyl(Ce-C24) Isethionates, alkyl(C6-C24)ethersulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of salts of alkaline metals, of ammonium, of aminoalcohols, and of alkaline-earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably alkyl(Ce- C24)lsethionates in particular having formula CH3-CH2-[CH2-CH ₂ ]n-C(O)-O-CH2-CH2-S(O)2- O' M ⁺ , n being an integer comprised between 1 and 7, M ⁺ being a alkaline metal or alkaline- earth metal such as Na ⁺ , preferably the surfactant(s) of the invention are Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Among the non-ionic surfactants mention can be made, alone or mixtures, of fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, these 3 types of compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and having a fatty chain including for example 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups able to range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups able to range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention can also be made of copolymers of ethylene and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides having preferably from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides including an average of 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethyleneglycol, alkylpolyglycosides (or APG), the derivatives of N-alkyl glucamine, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) amine alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from the glycerolated fatty alcohols; and alkylpolyglycosides, (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; more preferably alkylpolyglycosides. The quantity of surfactants is preferably inclusively comprised between 0.1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 0.3% and 10% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5 and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

Water

The composition comprises an aqueous phase, i.e., also comprises water.

Water can constitute the continuous or dispersed phase.

The composition preferably comprises from 5% to 98% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably from 15% to 60% by weight.

According to an embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a quantity in fat greater than the quantity by weight of water.

According to the further embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a greater quantity of water than the quantity of fat. Dosaqe forms

The compositions according to the invention can be in different dosage forms, such as aqueous gels, direct (O/W) or invert (W/O) emulsions, multiple emulsions (O/W/O or W/O/W), dispersions where the aqueous phase is the continuous or dispersed phase.

The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a dermatological or skin care composition, or in the form of a sun protection composition. It is then present in a non-colored form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients different from compounds i) to iii). They can then be used as a care base for the skin or lips.

The composition according to the invention can also be in the form of a colored skin makeup product in particular a foundation, a blush, a blusher or eye shadow, or lip makeup such as a lipstick or eyelash or eyebrow makeup such as a mascara.

The composition according to the invention can also be in the form of an optionally colored hair product, in particular a conditioner, a care cream, or in the form of a deodorant. vi) Additional ingredients

The compositions according to the invention can further comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from: a) gelling agents; b) film-forming polymers or not; c) thickening polymers or not, preferably of the polysaccharide type such as xanthan gum or scleroglycan; d) coloring materials such as pigments, natural or synthetic direct colorants; e) fillers; f) UV filters; g) surfactants; h) natural or synthetic cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as plant extracts; i) perfumes, j) as well as their salts or their mixtures; preferably the composition comprises c) thickening or not polymers of the polysaccharide type such as xanthan gum or scleroglucan and/or d) one or more pigments; more preferably the pigment or pigments of the invention are chosen from carbon black, titanium oxides and iron oxides in particular yellow, red or black and iron oxide coated micas, even more preferably iron oxides and titanium oxide the latter able to be coated in particular alkali metal, alkali earth salts or aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

The invention is now illustrated by the following example.

Unless specified otherwise, the quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition (% w/w). EXAMPLES

DESCRIPTION OF ANTIMICROBIAL EFFICACY TEST PROTOCOL

The antimicrobial efficacy of mixtures i), ii) and iii) was evaluated by conducting a standardized microbiological protocol called "challenge test" used during the development of formulas. This challenge-test is indispensable in order to guarantee the quality of the cosmetic products and the safety of the users.

In order to evaluate the effectiveness of the preservative system, the product is artificially contaminated with a defined quantity of different microorganisms: Aspergillus niger (fungus), Candida albicans (yeast) and Enterococcus faecalis (bacterium).

An enumeration of the microorganisms remaining in the formula, after 7 days at ambient temperature, makes it possible to evaluate the effectiveness of the preservative system.

It is deemed satisfactory when the number of each one of the microorganisms is less than 250 CFU/g.

EXAMPLE 1

The preservative systems are formulated in a foundation of which a typical example with the following composition which was manufactured according to a conventional method for a person skilled in the art:

[Table 1] Procedure:

Into the main beaker, the water from the phase A1 is introduced and placed under stirring (Rayneri, 250 rpm-1 ) and heated to 55°C using a heating plate.

Then the ingredients of the phase A2 are successively added, the stirring is increased to 500 rpm-1 and the heating is maintained until a homogeneous and gelled mixture is obtained.

Then the phase A3 is added (emulsifier), the stirring is then increased to 600 rpm-1 maintaining the heating until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

The constituents of the phase B1 are weighed in a second beaker. It is placed on a heating plate, under stirring (Rayneri, 150 rpm ^-1 ) and is heated to 55 °C until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Then the pigments (phase B2) are incorporated while progressively increasing the speed to 650 rpm-1 and stirring for 15 min.

The emulsion takes place at 55 °C: the fatty phase is poured into the aqueous phase under stirring at 2,500 rpm ^-1 for 15mn.

The gelling agent (phase C) is then added and stirring is reduced to 1 ,000 rpm ^-1 . The heating is maintained and this stirring for 10 mn.

Finally the phase D (alcohols) is incorporated at a temperature less than 25 °C under stirring at 2,000 rpm-1 for 10 min.

Comparative tests and according to the invention and evaluation vs. Enterococcus faecalis and Aspergillus nicer [T able 2]

[Table 3]

After 7 days at ambient temperature

[Table 4] [Table 5]

It appears that the combinations of the 3 ingredients i) vanillin, ii) benzyl alcohol, and iii) ethanol (examples. 1 to 5) according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions that perform significantly better in terms of antimicrobial activity with regards to Enterococcus faecalis and Aspergillus niger germs than compositions that comprise only two of the three ingredients ii) and iii) (example. C1 ) or i) and iii) ( example C2), i) and ii) (examples. C2 and C4).

It was also observed for the compositions of examplesi to 5 of the invention an antimicrobial activity on Candida albicans at 7 days at ambient temperature that was very effective.

EXAMPLE 2

Example 2 completes the study of the influence of the percentage of ethanol.

[Table 6]

[Table 7]

The inocula for Enterococcus faecalis, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger are respectively 2.6 ^E 6, 1 .6 ^E 6 and 1 .9 ^E 6 CFU/g. A percentage by mass of ethanol of 0.5%, combined with 0.25% vanillin and 0.8% benzyl alcohol, leads to very satisfactory microbiological results.