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Title:
COSMETIC COMPOSITION
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2014/085876
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
The cosmetic composition in the invention contains in weight %: Lyophilized extract of snail mucus and lyophilized extract of snail caviar, as the amount of components is as follows: lyophilized extract of snail slime from 0.001 to 0.5, lyophilized extract of snail caviar from 0.001 to 7, argan oil from 0.10 to 10, an anti-inflammatory agent from 0.01 to 0.50, humectants from 1 to 10, alpha-hydroxy acid from 0.01 to 1, retinyl palmitate from 0.01 to 0.5, tocopheryl acetate 0.1 -2,0, D-panthenol - 0.1 to 5.0, preservatives from 0.05 to 1.20, chelating compound from 0.05 to 0.2, fragrance from 0.0 to 0.7, thickeners from 2 to 5, antioxidants from 0.01 to 1.00 and deionized water to 100, and in a given case it further contains surfactants or a regenerating additive and/or water/oil stabilizer composition and/or oil components solvent. The composition of the invention provides a unexpectedly quick effect. The effect of using it depending on the purpose is between 5 and 10 days after the treatment of skin areas. The cosmetic composition in the invention has a very quick and positive effect on acne and signs of acne, rosacea, age spots and freckles, wrinkles and frown lines, including "crow's feet", scars, stretch marks, dead skin cells needing exfoliation. The cosmetic composition retains the biological activity of the active substance for a long period of time. The enzymes contained in the cosmetic composition retain their conformational integrity, respectively, activity. This activity is controllable depending on the purpose of the invention composition. Significantly extends the shelf life of the composition of the invention and its storage capacity, which does not require special conditions.

Inventors:
DOBREVA SVOBODA ANDREEVA (BG)
DOBREVA KALINA GEORGIEVA (BG)
Application Number:
PCT/BG2013/000009
Publication Date:
June 12, 2014
Filing Date:
March 26, 2013
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
CANTAREUS JSC (BG)
International Classes:
A61K8/04; A61K8/34; A61K8/36; A61K8/365; A61K8/64; A61K8/66; A61K8/92; A61K8/97; A61K8/98; A61Q19/00; A61Q19/08
Foreign References:
FR2595247A11987-09-11
KR20010054526A2001-07-02
RU93053628A1996-11-10
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
PAVLOVA (zh.k. "Yavorov" bl. 41 , vh.B et, P.O. Box 12 1111 Sofia, BG)
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Claims:
PATENT CLAIMS

1. Cosmetic composition containing snails extract, characterized with the fact that snail extract is a lyophilized extract of snail mucus and lyophilized extract of snail caviar, as the amount of components /in weight % / is as follows:

lyophilized extract of snail slime from 0.001 to 0.5, lyophilized extract of snail caviar from 0.001 to 7, argan oil from 0.10 to 10, an anti-inflammatory agent from 0.01 to 0.50, humectants from 1 to 10, alpha-hydroxy acid from 0.01 to 1, preservatives from 0.05 to 1.2, chelating agent from 0.05 to 0.2, fragrance from 0.0 to 0.7, thickeners from 2 to 5, antioxidants from 0.01 to 1.00 and deionized water to 100, and in a given case it will further contain surfactants or regenerating additive and/or oil stabilizing composition and/or solvents of oil components.

2. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that the surfactants are in a quantity /in weight %/ from 10 to 70 and surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulphosuccinate, cocoamide of diethanolamine, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium polyethylene glycol-8 palm glyceride sulphosuccinate, polyethylene glycol-7 glyceryl cocoate.

3. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that the regeneration supplement is a mixture of palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide - 7 to an amount of 3 to 8 weight % , or a mixture of hydrolyzed rice protein, soy protein and superoxide dismutase in an amount of 2 to 5%

4. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil stabilizer composition contains in weight % emulsifiers from 2 to 15 and emollients from 1 to 30, emulsifiers are glycerol monostearate, PEG-100 stearate, glycerol monostearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, and emollients are caprylic/capric triglyceride, decyloleate and vegetable oils such as almond oil, olive oil, apricot oil.

5. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that oil components solvent /in weight %/ is alcohol from 0.1 to 40 and solubilizer from 0.01 to

5.00. The alcohol is ethyl and the solubilizers are PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and polysorbate 20.

6. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that the anti-inflammatory substances are alpha-bisabolol, or extracts from herbs such as calendula, chamomile, St. John's Wort.

7. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that humectants are sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, propylene glycol.

8. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that the preservatives are phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerin, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l 3-diol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and benzyl alcohol.

9. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that the antioxidants are coenzyme Q10, butylhydroxytoluene, tocopherol.

10. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1, characterized in that the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid or glycolic acid.

1 1. Cosmetic composition containing snail extract, according to claim 1 , characterized in that the chelating compound is disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, or tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid.

Description:
COSMETIC COMPOSITION

I. Field of the Invention

The cosmetic composition on the invention will find application in the cosmetic industry for the manufacture of cosmetic products with natural ingredients.

II. Background of the Invention

In recent years, the efforts to cosmetic companies have focused on creating products derived from nature. It is proved that the snail extract contains natural ingredients that have positive effects on human skin. Cosmetic companies like Babaria and Diet Esthetic, Spain, Unifarmed Italy, Gutto Cosmetic Turkey and Bulgarian companies Synaps & Eskl, Natural Garden ltd. and Goton have developed and offer cosmetics containing extracts from snails and excipients.

There has been a cosmetic composition known /Snail Secretion Filtrate/ containing snail mucus and further containing proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, glycoprotein enzymes, hyaluronic acid, peptides (containing copper) antimicrobial peptides and inorganic elements such as Cu, Zn, Ca +2, and Fe.

A disadvantage of known cosmetic compositions is the use in their composition of snail extract representing an serum aqueous solution, which has a small percentage of active substance, leading to a delay in their action and reducing their effects in the treatment of face and body skin.

III. Summary of the Invention

The task of the invention is to create a cosmetic composition containing the active ingredients - snail mucus and caviar extracts, as in the active ingredients there will be no water content, and in combination with other ingredients will have a quick impact in the treatment of skin and body.

The task according to the invention is solved with a composition containing in weight %: Lyophilized extract of snail mucus and lyophilized extract of snail caviar, as the amount of components is as follows: lyophilized extract of snail mucus from 0.001 to 0.5, lyophilized extract of snail caviar from 0.001 to 7, argan oil from 0.10 to 10, an anti-inflammatory agent from 0.01 to 0.50, humectants from 1 to 10, alpha-hydroxy acid from 0.01 to 1, retinyl palmitate from 0.01 to 0.5, tocopheryl acetate 0.1-2,0, D-panthenol 0.1 to 5.0, preservatives from 0.05 to 1.20, chelated compound from 0.05 to 0.2, fragrance from 0.0 to 0.7, thickeners from 2 to 5, antioxidants from 0.01 to 1.00 and deionized water to 100 and in a particular case further contains surfactants or a regenerating additive and/ or water/oil stabilizer composition and/or solvents of oil components.

According to the invention the surfactants used are in quantity (in weight. %) of 10 to 70 and they are: sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, cocoamide of diethanolamine, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium polyethylene glycol-8 palm glyceride sulfosuccinate, polyethylene glycol-7 glyceryl cocoate. The cosmetic composition on the invention, in one case, contains also additional additive for skin regeneration /weight %/, which is a mixture of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide - 7 within the range of 3 to 8, or a mixture of hydrolyzed rice protein, soy protein and superoxide dismutase in a quantity of 2 to 5.

According to a variant of fulfillment of the invention, the cosmetic composition contains additionally stabilizing oil composition that includes /in weight. %/ emulsifiers from 2 to 15 and emollients from 1 to 30. The emulsifiers are glycerol monostearate, polyethylene glycol- 100 stearate, glycerol monostearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, and the emollients are caprylic/capric triglyceride, decyl oleate and vegetable oils such as almond oil, olive oil, apricot oil.

The cosmetic composition on the invention contains in a given case also additional oil components solvent (in weight %) alcohol from 0.1 to 40 and solubilizer from 0.01 to 5.00, as the alcohol is ethyl and the solubilizer are polyethylene glycol-40, hydrogenated castor oil and polysorbate 20.

Anti-inflammatory substances on the invention are alpha-bisabolol, or extracts from herbs such as calendula, chamomile, St. John's Wort.

As humectants according to the invention used are sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, propylene glycol. Preservatives are phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerin, 2-bromo-2- nitropropane-1 3-diol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and benzyl alcohol. The antioxidants are coenzyme Q10, Butylhydroxytoluene, tocopherol. Alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid or glycolic acid. The chelating compound is disodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid, or the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid. To demonstrate the effectiveness and usefulness of the cosmetic composition in the invention there were clinical biomedical researches made, one of which we enclose.

1. Clinical methods:

A. A single open skin patch testing

The skin compatibility of the cream has been tested in 20 volunteers. There were fields marked with a size 2/4 cm on the inner surface of the front-arm. Within the tested field the cream was applied in its pure form, undiluted, as according to the terms of use of the cream.

As a control used was a 5% solution of sodium laureth sulfate.

A single application of the cream within the test area and the control lasted 60 minutes. Reporting was after washout of the samples after 24 hours, 48 hours, while envisaging four stages: erythema (0 to 4), peeling (0 to 3), edema (+ or -), pruritus (0 to 3) burning (0 to 3).

B. A single indoor Skin patch testing with full occlusion

The test was carried out on 20 volunteers aged from 30 to 65 years. For comparison, reference cosmetic products were used. The tested cosmetic product was applied undiluted on the back for 48 hours during in a closed manner. Reporting of the results was made on the 1 st , 24 th and the 48 th hour after the overthrow of the closed test. The results were reported visually by a grading system upon determining of an average score and are presented in

Table 1

The data show excellent compatibility of the cosmetic product - eye cream on the invention, upon exposure exceeding the expected conditions of use.

C. Repeated closed skin patch testing under occlusion

Subject of the study are 20 persons - women, as for control one used liquid paraffin. The product was applied on the back under occlusion for 24 hours the first time, and for six hours every day over the next 4 days (Frosch & Kligman, 1979). Reporting was made on a daily basis after removing the closed patch, as well as before making the next application until the 8 day. Evaluation of the data for each indicator was implemented taking into account the average values as scores reported after the applications and on the 8 th day. The results are presented in

Table 2

The methodology used with an exposure in excess of the expected conditions shows absence of objective skin reactions (erythema, desquamation, edema) or subjective complaints of irritation, burning or itching.

2. Uncontrolled test for home use

The test was performed on 50 healthy women aged from 30 to 65.

The volunteers were priorly instructed on how to use the cream and the indicators included in a slip specially made for the study with a view to a better opportunity to evaluate the appearance and impact on the skin.

It is recommended to be applied in the morning before applying makeup and evening after cleansing the face. At the end of the 20-day period of use, the conclusions of the volunteers are presented as follows in

Table 3

The data in the table show the full approval by the volunteers of the organoleptic qualities of the cream on the invention.

Highly rated are properties like easy application, skin absorption, lack of residual film, improved elasticity. Fast and effective improvement of the relief in sensitive skin around the eyes. Helps increase elasticity, prevents the appearance of wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness, removing the signs of fatigue. There haven't been any adverse effects reported on the skin or eyes, meaning -irritation of the same.

The advantages of the composition compared to the known ones used for the same purpose are:

The cosmetic composition in the invention has proven an unexpectedly quick effect.

The effect of using it depending on the purpose is between 5 and 10 days after the treatment of skin areas.

The cosmetic composition in the invention has a very quick and positive effect on acne and signs of acne, rosacea, age spots and freckles, wrinkles and frown lines, including "crow's feet", scars, stretch marks, dead skin cells needing exfoliation.

The cosmetic composition retains the biological activity of the active substance for a long period of time.

The enzymes contained in the cosmetic composition retain their conformational integrity, respectively, activity. This activity is controlled depending on the purpose of the invention composition.

Significantly extended is the life of the composition of the invention and its storage capacity, which does not require special conditions.

IV. EXAMPLES OF FULFILLMENT OF THE INVENTION

Example 1

Composition in kilograms:

Lyophilized extract of snail mucus - 0.20

Lyophilized extract of snail caviar - 1.0 Argan Oil - 0.50

Alpha Bisabolol - 0.30

D-panthenol - 1.00

Tocopheryl acetate - 0.05

Retinyl palmitate - 0.05

Palmitoyl oligopeptides, palmitoyl tetrapeptide - 7-3

Glycerin - 1.00

Lactic acid - 0.20

2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l 3-diol - 0.05

Disodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid - 0.10

Fragrance - 0.40

Surfactant - a mixture of sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, cocoamide of diethanolamine, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium polyethylene glycol-8 palm glyceride sulfosuccinate, polyethylene glycol-7 glyceryl cocoate - 45.0

Gum - 2.00

Butylhydroxytoluene - 0.01

-40 Hydrogenated castor oil - 2.00

Salt - 1.00

Deionized water to 100

To the priorly broken gum in water, slowly added are the surfactant solution and the other components upon constant stirring at slow speed until full homogenizing of the mixture.

Example 2

Composition in kilograms:

Lyophilized extract of snail mucus - 0.2

Lyophilized extract of snail caviar - 1.0

Argan oil -7.0

Alpha bisabolol - 0.5

D-panthenol - 1.00

Tocopheryl acetate - 0.05

Retinyl palmitate - 0.05

Palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide - 7 to 5.0

Glycerin - 7.00 Sodium Hyaluronate - 1.00

Lactic acid - 0.2

Phenoxyethanol (90%), ethylhexyl glycerin (10%) / - 0.8

Disodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid - 0.2

Fragrance - 0.5

Carbopol-0, 50

Butylhydroxytoluene - 0.05

A mixture of glycerin monostearate and polyethylene glycol- 100 stearate / - 9.00

Decyl oleate -4.00

Olive oil - 3.00

Sunflower oil - 4.00

Cetyl Alcohol - 2.00

Triethanolamine - 0.50

Deionized water to 100

Preparation of the aqueous phase: Carbopol is whisked in water to obtain a homogeneous solution and to it we add glycerin, disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. In a separate bowl is prepared the oil phase: glycerol monostearate and PEG- 100 stearate, argan oil, decyl oleate, olive oil, sunflower oil, cetyl alcohol, and Butylhydroxytoluene.

The two phases are heated in a water bath at a temperature of 70°C. They are mixed, at a constant stirring, adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase. Homogenized is the finished emulsion for 5-10 minutes. Then, we stir constantly until, the emulsion is cooled at 40-45°C, when we add: freeze-dried extracts of mucus and snails caviar, alpha-bisabolol, sodium hyaluronate, lactic acid, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, fragrance. Last added is the solution of triethanolamine. The emulsion is homogenized for 2-3 minutes and colling continues until reaching room temperature.

Example 3:

Composition in kilograms:

Lyophilized extract of snail slime - 0.2

Lyophilized extract of snail caviar - 1.0

Argan oil -3.0

Alpha bisabolol - 0.2 Glycerin - 5.00

Sodium hyaluronate - 0.5

Lactic acid - 0.2

D-panthenol - 1.00

Tocopheryl acetate - 1.00

Retinyl palmitate - 0.2

Coenzyme Q 10 to 0.05

Phenoxyethanol (90%), ethylhexyl glycerin (10%) / - 0.8

Disodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid - 0.2

Fragrance - 0.5

Carbopol-0, 50

A mixture of glycerin monostearate and polyethylene glycol- 100 stearate / - 5.00

Caprylic/capric triglyceride -4.00

Olive oil - 3.00

Almond oil - 4.00

Cetyl Alcohol - 2.00

Hydrolyzed rice protein, soy protein, superoxide dismutase - 3

Triethanolamine - 0.50

Deionized water to 100

Preparation of the aqueous phase: Carbopol is whisked in water to obtain a homogeneous solution and to it we add glycerin, disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. In a separate bowl is prepared the oil phase: glycerol monostearate and PEG- 100 stearate, argan oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, olive oil, almond oil, cetyl alcohol, and Butylhydroxytoluene.

The two phases are heated in a water bath at a temperature of 70°C. They are mixed, at a constant stirring, adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase. The finished emulsion is homogenized for 5-10 minutes. Then, we stir constantly until the emulsion is cooled at 40-45°C, when we add: freeze-dried extracts of mucus and snails caviar, D-panthenol, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Coenzyme Q 10, Hydrolyzed rice protein, soy protein, superoxide dismutase, alpha bisabolol, Sodium hyaluronate, Lactic acid, Phenoxyethanol,%), ethylhexyl glycerin and fragrance. The emulsion is homogenized for 2-3 minutes and colling continues until reaching room temperature. Example 4:

Composition in kilograms:

Lyophilized extract of snail slime - 0.50

Lyophilized extract of snail caviar - 5.00

Argan Oil - 0.20

Alpha Bisabolol - 0.10

D-panthenol - 1.00

Tocopheryl acetate - 0.05

Retinyl palmitate - 0.05

Palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide - 7 - 3.0

Glycerin - 4.00

Sodium Hyaluronate - 1.00

Glycolic Acid - 0.50

A mixture of potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol - 1.0

Disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-0.10

Fragrance - 0.50

Carbopol - 00:20

Butylhydroxytoluene - 12:02

Ethyl alcohol -15.00

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil - 2.00

triethanolamine - 0.20

Deionized water to 100

Liposoluble components are added to the ethyl alcohol - fragrance, alpha bisabolol, argan oil and Butylhydroxytoluene. In the deionized water is added carbopol and is mixed until obtaining a clear solution, then we add ingredients: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, freeze-dried extracts of mucus and snail caviar, glycolic acid, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. The two solutions are mixed and the ready mass is neutralized with a solution of triethanolamine.

Although the present invention is described in connection with preferred exemplary performances, it should be noted that various changes and modifications are apparent to a person skilled in the field. Such changes and modifications are to be understood as falling within the scope of this invention as defined by the attached patent claims without going outside this range.

There are other variants possible of the model performances of this invention which will achieve the desired effects by revealing substantial evidence in this description and in the patient claims, as thus they will also be within the scope of the present invention defined by the claims.