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Title:
COSMETIC PRODUCT APPLICATION DEVICE COMPRISING KAPOK FIBRES AND ASSOCIATED METHOD
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2010/012734
Kind Code:
A2
Abstract:
This device (10) comprises a non-woven body (12) which is formed based on a mixture of fibres (14, 16). The fibre mixture comprises kapok fibres (14) and cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok. All the fibres (14, 16) of the fibre mixture are cellulose fibres. The fibre mixture (14, 16) comprises between 10% by mass and 30% by mass of kapok fibres (14) and between 90% by mass and 70% by mass of cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok.

Inventors:
AUMEGEAS JEAN-MARC (FR)
BEFVE DENIS (FR)
THEOBALD ISABELLE (FR)
Application Number:
PCT/EP2009/059748
Publication Date:
February 04, 2010
Filing Date:
July 28, 2009
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
OREAL (FR)
AUMEGEAS JEAN-MARC (FR)
BEFVE DENIS (FR)
THEOBALD ISABELLE (FR)
International Classes:
A45D34/04; A61K8/02; A61Q1/14; D04H1/04; D04H1/4266; D04H1/46; D04H1/48
Foreign References:
EP1302592A12003-04-16
JPS5982992A1984-05-14
JPH04161289A1992-06-04
EP1024217A22000-08-02
Other References:
DATABASE WPI Week 200756 Thomson Scientific, London, GB; AN 2007-573398 XP002564476 -& CN 1 888 152 A (XINLONG HOLDING GROUP CORP LTD) 3 January 2007 (2007-01-03)
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
JACOBSON, Claude (2 Place d'Estienne d'Orves, Paris Cedex 09, FR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1. Cosmetic product application device (10) of the type comprising a non- woven body (12) which is formed based on a mixture of fibres (14, 16), the mixture of fibres (14, 16) comprising kapok fibres (14) and cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok, all the fibres (14, 16) of the non-woven body being cellulose fibres, the fibre mixture (14, 16) comprising between 10% by mass and 40% by mass of kapok fibres (14) and between 90% by mass and 60% by mass of cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok relative to the total mass of kapok fibres (14) and cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok.

2. Device (10) according to claim 1 , characterised in that the fibre mixture comprises between 15% by mass and 30% by mass of kapok fibres (14), and between 85% by mass and 70% by mass of cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok, relative to the total mass of kapok fibres (14) and cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok.

3. Device (10) according to claim 1 , characterised in that the mixture of fibres comprises between 10% by mass and 30% by mass, advantageously between 10% by mass and 20% by mass of kapok fibres (14), and between 90% by mass and 70% by mass, advantageously between 90% by mass and 80% by mass of cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok in relation to the total mass of the kapok fibres (14) and the cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok.

4. Device (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the mean length of the kapok fibres (14) is between 5 mm and 50 mm, advantageously between 10 mm and 25 mm. 5. Device (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok are selected from natural cellulose fibres, regenerated cellulose fibres, modified cellulose fibres and mixtures thereof.

6. Device (10) according to claim 5, characterised in that the cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok are selected from viscose fibres, lyocell fibres and mixtures thereof.

7. Device (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the mean length of the cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok is between 10 mm and 50 mm, advantageously between 30 mm and 50 mm.

8. Device (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok have a clarity L which is greater than 91 %, measured in accordance with the L*a*b system of the International Commission on Illumination in accordance with the standard CIE 1976.

9. Device (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the non-woven body (12) is a sheet which deforms when touched.

10. Method for producing a device (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it comprises the following steps: - mixing kapok fibres (14) and cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok, all the fibres of the fibre mixture (14, 16) being cellulose fibres, the fibre mixture (14, 16) comprising between 10% by mass and 40% by mass of kapok fibres (14) and between 90% by mass and 60% by mass of cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok relative to the total mass of kapok fibres (14) and cellulose fibres (16) other than kapok;

- physical, chemical and/or mechanical bonding of the fibres of the fibre mixture (14, 16) in order to form a non-woven body (12) based on the fibre mixture.

Description:
Cosmetic product application device comprising kapok fibres and associated method

The present invention relates to a cosmetic product application device. Such an application device is intended to form, for example, a wipe, a web, a fabric, a patch, a disc or a square which is intended to be impregnated with the cosmetic product in order to apply this product by placing the impregnated device in contact with the skin, the nails or the keratinic fibres of a user.

In a variant, the application device is arranged at one end of a gripping member which is intended to be gripped by the hand of a user in order to allow the cosmetic product to be applied to the user.

The term "cosmetic product" is intended to refer in particular to a product as defined in the Directive 93/35/EEC of the Council dated 14 th June 1993. The cosmetic product is, for example, a make-up product, a make-up removal composition, which is intended to remove make-up applied to the skin or to keratinic fibres of a user, a nail-polish remover or, more generally, a cream or an emulsion.

WO 2007/070147 discloses a wipe which comprises a non-woven body. The non-woven body of the wipe is, for example, produced based on a mixture of cellulose fibres formed into a sheet using a method involving wet means, similar to the formation of paper.

Synthetic fibres which are not derived from cellulose are added to the fibre mixture in order to modify the properties of the wipes.

Current environmental constraints require this type of wipe to be rapidly biodegradable in order to limit the quantity of waste resulting from the increasing use of these products.

However, it remains necessary to retain adequate properties for the wipes, in particular with respect to their external appearance and their application properties, and in particular their feel. An object of the invention is therefore to obtain a cosmetic product application device which is substantially biodegradable, whilst having an improved aesthetic appearance and an adequate feel. To this end, the invention relates to a cosmetic product application device of the type comprising a non-woven body which is formed based on a mixture of fibres, the mixture of fibres comprising kapok fibres and cellulose fibres other than kapok, all the fibres of the fibre mixture being cellulose fibres, the fibre mixture comprising between 10% by mass and 40% by mass of kapok fibres and between 90% by mass and 60% by mass of cellulose fibres other than kapok relative to the total mass of kapok fibres and cellulose fibres other than kapok.

The device according to the invention may comprise one or more of the following features, taken in isolation or according to any technically possible combination:

- the fibre mixture comprises between 15% by mass and 30% by mass of kapok fibres, and between 85% by mass and 70% by mass of cellulose fibres other than kapok, relative to the total mass of kapok fibres and cellulose fibres other than kapok; - the mean length of the kapok fibres is between 5 mm and 50 mm, advantageously between 10 mm and 25 mm;

- the cellulose fibres other than kapok are selected from natural cellulose fibres, regenerated cellulose fibres, modified cellulose fibres and mixtures thereof;

- the cellulose fibres other than kapok are selected from viscose fibres, lyocell fibres and mixtures thereof;

- the mean length of the cellulose fibres other than kapok is between 10 mm and 50 mm, advantageously between 30 mm and 50 mm;

- the cellulose fibres other than kapok have a clarity L which is greater than 91 %, measured in accordance with the L * a * b system of the International Commission on Illumination in accordance with the standard CIE 1976; and

- the non-woven body is a sheet which is able to deform when touched. The invention also relates to a method for producing a device, characterised in that it comprises the following steps:

- mixing kapok fibres and cellulose fibres other than kapok, all the fibres of the fibre mixture being cellulose fibres, the fibre mixture comprising between 10% by mass and 40% by mass of kapok fibres and between 90% by mass and 60% by mass of cellulose fibres other than kapok relative to the total mass of kapok fibres and cellulose fibres other than kapok; physical, chemical and/or mechanical bonding of the fibres of the fibre mixture in order to form a non-woven body based on the fibre mixture.

The invention will be better understood from a reading of the following description, given purely by way of example and with reference to the appended drawing, in which Figure 1 is a plan view of a wipe for applying a cosmetic product according to the invention.

Figure 1 illustrates a first example of an application device 10 according to the invention.

Such an application device is intended to form a wipe, a web, a material, a patch, a disc or a square which is intended to be impregnated with the cosmetic product in order to apply this product by placing the impregnated device in contact with the skin, the keratinic fibres or the nails of a user.

In the example illustrated in Figure 1 , the device 10 is a wipe for applying the cosmetic product. This device 10 comprises a non-woven body 12 which is produced based on a mixture of kapok fibres 14 and cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok.

The body 12 is advantageously a sheet. The term "sheet" in the context of the present invention is intended to refer to a body which is substantially planar, that is to say, which has a thickness at least two times, advantageously at least five times, smaller than its other dimensions. The thickness of the body 12 is advantageously between 0.3 mm and 3 mm.

The body 12 is flexible so as to be deformable when touched. The term "deformable when touched" in the context of the present invention is intended to refer to the fact that a user of the application device 10 is able to deform the body 12 using his fingers, in particular by pinching it between two fingers.

The body 12 is a non-woven material which is produced based on a mixture of fibres 14 and 16 which are all cellulose fibres.

The term "non-woven material" in the context of the present invention is intended to refer to a substrate which comprises the mixture of fibres and in which the individual fibres or filaments are arranged in a random manner in a sheet-like structure and are neither woven nor knitted. The fibres of the non-woven body are generally bonded together, under the effect of mechanical action (water jet), thermal action, or by the addition of a bonding agent. Such a non-woven material is, for example, defined in the Standard ISO

9092 as a web or a sheet of fibres which are orientated directionally or randomly, bonded by means of friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, with the exclusion of paper and products obtained by means of weaving, knitting, tufting, sewing. As will be seen below, the non-woven bodies 12 in the context of the present invention are generally obtained using dry means, in particular by means of carding or by using an aerodynamic depositing method known as "airlaid". In a variant, the non-woven bodies 12 of the invention are obtained using wet means in a method which is similar to producing paper. The term "cellulose fibres" is intended to refer to fibres based on natural cellulose, that is to say, fibres which originate directly from a plant, being harvested from a plant, or obtained by means of a mechanical processing operation of the plant, such as grinding, pressing, crushing and/or separation. "Cellulose fibres" are also intended to be understood to be fibres of modified cellulose, that is to say, natural cellulose or solubilised natural cellulose, which has reacted with a chemical component. "Cellulose fibres" are also intended to be understood to be fibres of regenerated cellulose, that is to say, natural cellulose, optionally modified, solubilised in a solvent, then reformed in the form of fibres. These cellulose fibres are advantageously biodegradable. These fibres contain at least 50% of cellulose or a derivative of the cellulose.

In this manner, the fibres of the non-woven body 12 do not contain any synthetic fibre. The term "synthetic fibre" is intended to refer to fibres which have no natural polymer precursor, such as fibres obtained by means of polymerisation of a synthetic monomer, derived, for example, from petroleum. Synthetic fibres comprise in particular polyolefins, such as polyethylene or polypropylene, polyesters, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyamides, such as nylon, polymers containing fluorine or chlorine, such as polyvinyl chloride. Such fibres are not biodegradable and therefore cannot be used to produce the non-woven body 12 of the application devices 10 according to the invention. The kapok fibres 14 are obtained from the fruit of the trees of the family

"Malvaceae", sometimes separated into the family "Bombacaceae", from the order of "Malvales". The fruit collected have a length of a few tens of centimetres and a width of approximately 10 cm. Those fruit comprise seeds which are surrounded by yellowish fibres of down-like form composed mainly of a mixture of cellulose and lignine.

In a variant, this fibre is extracted from the tree of the family of "Bombax Ceiba" or the family "Aerva Javanica". The fibres 14 are extracted from the fruit collected before being formed into bales. The mean length of the kapok fibres 14 is, for example, between 5 mm and 50 mm, advantageously between 10 mm and 25 mm.

The fibres 14 have a diameter between 10 μm and 40 μm.

The kapok fibres 14 have a density six times less than the density of cotton, advantageously between 0.2 and 0.5 g/cm 3 and substantially of 0.35 g/cm 3 . They are of hollow shape containing 80% air by volume.

They are of a brownish colour characterised by a clarity L between 77 and 81 , and a coefficient a between 2 and 3 and a coefficient b between 12 and 13 in the representative model of colours "L * a * b" developed by the International Commission on Illumination in accordance with the CIE standard 1976.

In relation to the total mass of the kapok fibres 14 and the cellulose fibres other than kapok, the mass percentage of the kapok fibres 14 in the mixture of fibres 14, 16 constituting the non-woven body 12 is between 10% by mass and 40% by mass, and advantageously between 15% by mass and 30% by mass. The kapok fibres 14 are, for example, marketed by the company ROBERT

LEVY SAS under the name "type 50.26.1 - Superfine Kapok Fibres".

The cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok are obtained based on natural cellulose fibres of plant origin, artificial cellulose fibres obtained based on modified and/or regenerated cellulose or mixtures thereof. Examples of natural cellulose fibres of plant origin are cotton, hemp, jute, wool or wood pulp.

Artificial cellulose fibres are obtained using a method for processing natural cellulose.

These fibres are, for example, defined in a generic manner by the International Bureau for the Standardisation of Synthetic Fibres (BISFA) as being cellulose fibres of the "acetate" or "triacetate" type obtained by means of acetylation of the hydroxl groups of cellulose, fibres of the "alginate" type obtained from metal salts of alginic acid, such as, for example, alkaline or alkaline-earth salts of alginic acid such as calcium alginate, or cellulose-based fibres of the

"cupro" type, obtained using the "cuprammonium" method, in which the natural cellulose is dissolved in a compound comprising copper and an amine, such as cupra tetraamine dihydroxide. Advantageously, the cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok are viscose fibres.

The term "viscose fibres" in the context of the present invention is intended to refer to fibres which are obtained using the "viscose method" in accordance with the definition of BISFA, in which a basic solution of cellulose xanthate is advantageously drawn in the form of fibres from one or more regeneration baths. These fibres sometimes have a high level of resistance to break and are referred to as "modal".

Advantageously and in a variant, the cellulose fibres 16 which are other than kapok are lyocell fibres. The term "lyocell" fibres is intended to refer to cellulose fibres which are obtained using a method of spinning from an organic solvent which comprises a mixture of organic chemical products and water, the term "solvent spinning" referring to the dissolution of the cellulose in the solvent without a cellulose derivative being formed.

In this method which is referred to as "lyocell" by BISFA, natural cellulose is, for example, dissolved in a mixture of water and amine-N-oxide, for example, a tertiary amine-N-oxide, such as N-methylmorpholine N-oxide, and is drawn via a passage of air into a precipitation bath in order to form fibres. Such a method is described, for example, in FR 2 450 293.

The cellulose fibres 16 which are other than kapok thus obtained have a length between 10 mm and 50 mm, advantageously between 30 mm and 50 mm, and substantially of 40 mm. Their diameter is between 9 and 17 μm.

They have a linear density between 1.5 dtex and 2.0 dtex and a strength at break between 20 cN/tex and 40 cN/tex, advantageously between 16 and 34 cN/tex.

A non-woven material which is constituted exclusively by fibres 16 has a clarity "L" greater than 91 %, and the components "a" and "b" between 0 and 1 and between -3 and -2, respectively, as measured in the colour representation model

L * a * b developed by the International Commission on Illumination in accordance with the Standard CIE 1976. The cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok are therefore white.

Relative to the total mass of kapok fibres 14 and cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok, the mass proportion of cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok in the mixture of kapok fibres 14 and cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok of the non- woven body 12 is between 90% by mass and 60% by mass, advantageously between 85% by mass and 70% by mass, the total of the mass percentage of the fibres 14 and the mass percentage of the fibres 16 being 100%.

Advantageously, the fibres 16 are produced based on fibres of viscose or lyocell marketed by the Austrian company LENZING under the tradenames "LENZING VISCOSE ® " and "LENZING LYOCELL ® ", respectively.

Advantageously, no chemical bonding agent is used to maintain the mechanical cohesion of the non-woven body 12.

In a variant, a chemical bonding agent is used. This bonding agent is, for example, an acrylic emulsion, an emulsion of the type vinyl-ethylene acetate, an emulsion of the type styrene-butadiene-styrene, or an emulsion of vinyl chloride.

As illustrated in Figure 1 , the non-woven body 12 of the device 10 thus has an outer surface in which the kapok fibres 14 can be seen, being dispersed in a homogeneous manner in the structure of the cellulose fibres 16 which are other than kapok, which gives the application device 10 a natural outward appearance.

The body 12 has, compared with a non-woven material which is formed exclusively by cellulose fibres 16 as defined above, a coefficient ΔE greater than 2, as defined by the equation below:

AE = ^(L 1 -L 2 ) 2 +(a 1 -a 2 ) 2 + (b 1 -b 2 ) 2 where Li, a-[ and bi are the coefficients "L * a * b" of the non-woven body 12 and L 2 , a 2 and b 2 are the coefficients "L * a * b" of a non-woven material which is produced exclusively based on fibres 16. The non-woven body 12 obtained according to the invention has good mechanical strength.

It further has an excellent capacity for absorption of cosmetic product. The body thus obtained has a weight between 40 and 250 g/m 2 .

The non-woven body 12 of the application device is advantageously charged with at least one cosmetic product such as make-up, a make-up removal composition, a nail-polish remover, or more generally a cream, an emulsion or a lotion.

This charging can be carried out in the factory, after the production of the body 12, before the device 10 is used by the user, the device 10 charged with cosmetic product being arranged in a packaging in order to be provided to the user.

In a variant, the non-woven body 12 may have no cosmetic product before being used by the user, the user himself applying the cosmetic product to the non- woven body 12 when it is used.

Examples of production methods for an application device 10 according to the invention will now be described.

Initially, kapok fibres 14 as described above and cellulose fibres 16 which are other than kapok as described above are provided and are mixed in order to obtain a substantially homogeneous mixture of fibres 14 and fibres 16.

The method then comprises a step for forming the non-woven body 12, a step for consolidating the body 12, then a finishing step.

The step for forming the body 12 is carried out either via a dry path or via a wet path, these paths being referred to as "drylaid" and "wetlaid", respectively.

In the dry path, the body 12 is advantageously formed by means of carding or an aerodynamic depositing method referred to as "airlaid". For the carding, balls of fibres 14, 16 are first opened, then mixed and moved to a card by means of a conveyor belt so that the fibres 14, 16 are combed, individually separated and orientated along a general axis.

The fibres 14, 16 of the non-woven body 12 obtained by means of carding are deposited on a main drum substantially parallel with each other in the direction of the machine.

In the aerodynamic depositing method, a card is used to form a carpet of fibres 14, 16 which is moved to a rotating roller. Under the action of a centrifugal force, the sheet of fibres 14, 16 is projected into a current of air in which the fibres lose any preferential direction, in order to then be deposited onto a forming belt. In the wet path, a very dilute paste containing the fibres 14, 16 is deposited onto a conveyor belt. Water is then drawn from the belt in order to dehydrate and form the body 12. The body 12 is then consolidated by means of compression between cylinders, then dried. The fibres 14, 16 obtained in the body 12 thus formed have very variable orientations.

At the consolidation step, various types of bonding agents are used to provide mechanical cohesion for the body 12. Advantageously, a mechanical bonding agent is used to consolidate the body 12.

A first type of mechanical bonding is needling, in which the needles, which are advantageously barbed, are pressed vertically through the fibres 14, 16 of the body 12, which causes them to become interwoven. This technique allows non- woven materials to be obtained with a large weight and thickness.

Advantageously, the bonding is carried out by jets of water in accordance with the technique referred to as "spunlacing" or "water jet consolidation".

In this method, the fibres 14, 16 of the body 12 are interwoven using high- pressure water jets. Upon contact with these jets, the fibres are rearranged in the three dimensions of the body 12 and the consolidation can be obtained without the addition of a bonding agent. The pressure of the jets, for example, of between 50 bar and 200 bar, determines the solidity of the non-woven fabric which it is desirable to obtain.

In a variant, thermal bonding is used by compressing the body 12 between two cylinders in order to weld the fibres 14, 16 together at great speed. A controlled flow of warm air or ultrasounds can also be used to produce connections between the fibres 14, 16.

In a variant, a chemical bonding is carried out by applying to the body 12 a bonding agent which is advantageously formed by an acrylic emulsion, an emulsion of vinyl-ethylene acetate, an emulsion of styrene-butadiene-styrene, or another dispersed polymer.

These bonding agents are applied in a uniform manner by means of impregnation, coating or spraying, or in an intermittent or continuous manner.

In the finishing step, chemical substances can be added after the consolidation of the body 12. Mechanical embossing methods can be used, in particular to create patterns on the body 12. One example of a wipe according to the invention, produced from a mixture of viscose fibres and kapok fibres, and a comparative example of a wipe produced exclusively from viscose fibres will now be described in Table 1 below.

Tablei

The viscose fibres are fibres which are marketed by the company LENZING under the name "Lenzing Viscose®" under the reference "1.7 dtex 40mm dull

Nonwovens". The kapok fibres are fibres which are marketed under the reference

"Type 50.26.1 Superfine Kapok Fibres" by the French company ROBERT LEVY SAS.

The wipes are produced using a method involving dry means and are consolidated by jets of water. No bonding agent is added to consolidate the non- woven body.

The results of colohmetry using the L * a * b method are set out in Table 1 to illustrate the natural appearance of the wipes according to the invention.

The results of softness to the touch, measured using an audible surface- area in the machine direction using a sonometer, the sonometer being moved in the direction of the fibres, are also set out in Table 1.

The sonometer measures the sound emission spectrum between 0 kHz and 30 kHz of the friction of a spherical resonator having a diameter of 38 mm which rotates about the wipe at a constant speed and pressure of 180 rpm and 5 grammes, respectively.

The result of the measurement is a spectrum of 800 points from 0 kHz to 30 kHz, representing an audible surface-area. The signal is subject to a "Harming" type windowing operation then is averaged 100 times in order to increase the signal to noise ratio. A small audible surface-area characterises softness.

As can be seen in Table 1 , the presence of kapok fibres in the body 12 results in a substantially softer feel compared with a wipe of viscose. Even with a small quantity of kapok, a natural appearance is obtained. In a variant (not illustrated), the application device 10 is arranged at a free end of a gripping member in order to form a tool for applying a cosmetic product to a user, for example, to keratinic fibres of a user.

It will be appreciated that, in relation to the total mass of the kapok fibres 14 and the cellulose fibres which are other than kapok, the mass percentage of the kapok fibres 14 in the mixture of fibres 14, 16 constituting the non-woven body 12 may be between 10% by mass and 30% by mass, advantageously between 10% by mass and 20% by mass, advantageously between 10% by mass and 19% by mass.

In this manner, in relation to the total mass of the kapok fibres 14 and the cellulose fibres 16 which are other than kapok 16, the mass proportion of cellulose fibres other than kapok 16 in the mixture of kapok fibres 14 and cellulose fibres 16 other than kapok of the non-woven body 12 is between 90% by mass and 70% by mass, advantageously between 90% by mass and 80% by mass, advantageously between 90% by mass and 81 % by mass, the total of the mass percentage of the fibres 14 and the mass percentage of the fibres 16 being 100%.

Such a content of kapok fibres allows a very soft feel to be obtained, with production of the non-woven bodies being kept simple, even if the kapok fibres are of small size. The softness is further obtained in a surprising manner even with a small quantity of kapok fibres, which allows the production cost of the non-woven bodies to be reduced.




 
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