DYE COMPOSITION USING (2,5-DIAMINOPHENYL)ETHANOL AND AN ALIPHATIC FATTY ALCOHOL IN A MEDIUM RICH IN FATTY SUBSTANCES,

DYEING PROCESS AND DEVICE

The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising a) one or more fatty substances, which are preferably liquid and non-silicone, other than fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms and b) one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, c) (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol; d) optionally one or more couplers; e) optionally one or more basifying agents; f) one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, and the content of fatty substances in the composition representing in total at least 10% and preferably at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a dyeing process using this composition, and to a multi-compartment device that is suitable for the use of this composition. Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair and in particular to mask their grey hair.

One of the dyeing methods is "permanent" or oxidation dyeing, which uses dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, in combination with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds by an oxidative condensation process.

It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers, the latter being chosen especially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds. The variety of the molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colours to be obtained.

It is also possible to use direct dyes in order especially to contribute tints to the coloration obtained. These direct dyes are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for the fibres. Examples that may be mentioned include nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes.

Permanent dyeing processes thus consist in using, with the dye composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. The role of this oxidizing agent is, at least in part, to degrade the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to more or less pronounced lightening of the fibres. The oxidizing agent used is generally hydrogen peroxide.

One of the difficulties encountered during the implementation of the dyeing processes of the prior art arises from the fact that they are carried out under alkaline conditions and that the basifying agents most commonly used are aqueous ammonia and amines. Specifically, the basifying agent makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to enable activation of the oxidizing agent. In addition, this basifying agent causes swelling of the keratin fibre, with raising of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent, and also of the dyes, if they are present, essentially oxidation dyes, into the fibre, and thus increases the efficacy of the dyeing or lightening reaction.

However, these basifying agents, and especially aqueous ammonia, cause the user discomfort due to their strong characteristic odour.

Moreover, not only may the user be inconvenienced by the odour, but may also be confronted with greater risks of intolerance, for instance irritation of the scalp, which is especially reflected by stinging.

It is also important to obtain colorations that are light-fast. However, the use of certain couplers such as meta-phenylenediamines, for example, induces degradation caused by sunlight.

Moreover, it has been proposed in oxidation dyeing to use an oxidation base of (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol type (EP 0 858 796). Colorations that use this oxidation base are also known, especially combined with particular acids such as diethylenetriaminepenta(methylene)phosphonic acid (EP 2 103 299) or with chlorinated bases or chlorinated couplers such as 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 2,6-dichloro-4- aminophenol, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol 3-amino-5-chloroaniline, 2-chloro-4- aminophenol or 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol (WO 98/17233, WO 98/19658, WO 98/19659, WO 98/19660, EP 0 985 406, EP 0 727 203, DE 19828204, DE 19724334 or WO 96/15765), or with couplers such as 3-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-1 -propanol (WO 2001/051019). However, these combinations of bases, couplers and acids produce colours that are not always satisfactory, whose dyeing power is limited or even insufficient to ensure in particular suitable coverage of grey hair and/or which show excessive selectivity of the coloration between the root and the end and/or insufficient fastness with respect to external attacking factors such as light, shampoos, inclement weather, etc. In addition, none of these documents describes a dye composition comprising a large amount of fatty substances, in particular of oil. One of the objectives of the present invention is to propose compositions for dyeing human keratin fibres such as the hair that do not have the drawbacks of the existing compositions.

In particular, the composition according to the invention in the presence of a chemical oxidizing agent makes it possible to obtain colours that are satisfactory, especially in terms of power in general, but also with satisfactory coverage or build-up of the colour at the root of the hair, which makes it possible to avoid a "root" effect of the coloration. The colorations obtained are also sparingly selective. Finally, it is also possible to obtain colorations that are very light-fast.

Furthermore, the invention makes it possible to achieve substantial degrees of lightening while at the same time colouring, without using persalts or increasing the amount of chemical oxidizing agent or of basifying agent.

These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is thus a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising: a) one or more fatty substances other than the fatty alcohols b);

b) one or more fatty alcohol(s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms;

c) one or more oxidation base(s) chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, and also acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates;

d) optionally one or more coupler(s);

e) optionally one or more basifying agent(s);

f) one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s); and

the content of fatty substances a) and b) representing in total at least 10% in particular at least 15%, more particularly at least 20% and preferably at least 25% even more particularly at least 30%, more preferentially at least 40% and even more preferentially at least 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to dyeing processes using the composition of the invention, and to a multi-compartment device that enables the use of the composition of the invention.

Thus, the use of the dye composition according to the invention leads to powerful, intense, chromatic and/or sparingly selective colorations, i.e. colorations that are uniform along the fibre. The dyeing process of the invention also makes it possible to cover keratin fibres particularly well at their root, especially down to three centimetres from the base of the said fibres. Moreover, the colours obtained after treating the fibres remain stable, in particular towards light. The invention also makes it possible to reduce the amounts of active agents of the invention such as the dyes and/or basifying agents and/or oxidizing agents.

Furthermore, the processes according to the invention use formulations that are less malodorous during their application to the hair or during their preparation. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

The human keratin fibres treated via the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.

The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". a) Fatty substances

As has been mentioned, the composition of the invention comprises a) one or more fatty substances other than the fatty alcohol(s) b) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms as defined below.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1 % and even more preferentially less than 0.1 %). They exhibit, in their structure, at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (-C(O)OH or -C(0)0 ^" ). In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.

Preferably, the fatty substances used in the composition according to the invention are non-silicone oils. The term "o/7" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The term "non-silicone o/V means an oil not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone o/V means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

In other words, the fatty substance(s) are preferably non-silicone liquid fatty substances. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C ₆ -Ci ₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, other than b) fatty alcohol(s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms as defined below, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and plant waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups, comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C ₆ -Ci ₆ hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ^® .

The fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec ^® PC1 and Flutec ^® PC3 by the company BN FL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ^® and PF 5060 ^® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ^® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 ^® by the company 3M.

Besides the fatty alcohols b) of the invention, the fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition according to the invention are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and comprise from 6 to 19 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol. The wax(es) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

As regards the esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C ₂ 6 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C ₂ 6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci ₂ -Ci ₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2- ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₂ -C ₂ 6 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate ; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen- bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group containing the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃ o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or their mixtures, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular mono- or di- oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate®

DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may also be mentioned include:

- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F1 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitatestearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate; - the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced

B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-tri ester-polyester;

- the sucrose mono/di/palmitate/stearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft ^® PSE.

The silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione ^® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

I— D" - D' D"- D'

C H, C H, with D" — Si -0— with D' - Si - O—

I

C H, C _R 8H" ' 17

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaeryth ritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 ,1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10 ^"6 m ² /s at 25°C. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes, without implied limitation, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione ^® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil ^® oils sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the Mirasil ^® series sold by Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm ² /s; - the Viscasil ^® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF

18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia. In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydi(CrC ₂ o)alkylsiloxanes.

The silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are especially polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures, such as: - the mixtures formed from a hydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning;

- the mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and of a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

- the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m ² /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10 ^"6 m ² /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:

R ₂ Si0 ₂ / ₂ , R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and Si0 _4/2 , in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C C ₄ lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name

Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of resins of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type, sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by the company Shin- Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 ^χ 10 ^"5 to 5x 10 ^"2 m ² /s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH 1000;

- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Mention may also be made, among the organomodified silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, Ci-C ₄ aminoalkyl groups; - alkoxy groups such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-

755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax ^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the fatty substances according to the invention are non-silicone.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

Even more preferentially, the fatty substances used in the dye composition according to the invention are liquid and non-silicone. The fatty substances other than the fatty alcohols b) are advantageously chosen from C ₆ -Ci ₆ hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides, fatty alcohols other than the fatty alcohols b), and esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty substance(s) other than the fatty alcohols b) is (are) chosen from liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the fatty substances other than the fatty alcohols b) are chosen from liquid petrolatum and octyldodecanol.

The composition according to the invention comprises in total at least 10% by weight of fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of oils, preferably non-silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least

10%, in particular at least 15%, more particularly at least 20% and preferably at least 25%, even more particularly at least 30%, more preferably at least 40% and even more preferably at least 50 % by weight of fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of oils, preferably non-silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention more particularly has a total content of fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of oils, preferably non- silicone oils, ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, better still from 30% to 70% by weight and even more advantageously from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. b) Fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms The composition of the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols according to the invention comprise at least one aliphatic chain comprising at least 20 carbon atoms. The said aliphatic chain may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated. It preferably comprises from 20 to 100 carbon atoms, particularly from 20 to 50 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 20 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the said fatty alcohol(s) may be hydroxylated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

These fatty alcohols are not alkoxylated and in particular are not (poly)oxyethylenated and/or (poly)oxypropylenated. Preferably, the fatty alcohol b) has the structure R ^a -OH, in which R ^a denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical comprising from 20 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 20 to 50 carbon atoms and preferably from 20 to 30 carbon atoms; R ^a may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups. The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 25°C" means a fatty alcohol that has a viscosity, measured with a rheometer (for example an R600 rheometer) at a shear rate of 1 s ^"1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.

Preferably, the fatty alcohols according to the invention are saturated linear fatty alcohols. Preferably, they are primary fatty alcohols containing a saturated linear chain.

Examples that may especially be mentioned include behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol and montanyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use mixtures of these fatty alcohols b) or to use mixtures of these fatty alcohols b) with fatty alcohols containing less than 20 carbon atoms. As mixture of fatty alcohols that is particularly preferred in the composition according to the invention, use may be made, for example, of the mixture of fatty alcohols formed from 76% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 17% by weight of arachidyl alcohol, 1 .5% by weight of lignoceryl alcohol, 5% by weight of stearyl alcohol and 0.5% by weight of cetyl alcohol. This mixture is sold under the name Nafol® 1822 C by the company Condea. Other examples that may also be mentioned include the mixture sold under the name Nafol® 2298 by the company Condea, which comprises 98% by weight of behenyl alcohol; the mixture sold under the name Nafol® 20-22 by the company Condea, which comprises 30% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 58% by weight of arachidyl alcohol and 6% by weight of lignoceryl alcohol; or the mixture sold under the name Nafol® 20+ by the company Condea, which comprises 50% by weight of arachidyl alcohol, 29% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 14% by weight of lignoceryl alcohol and 6% by weight of stearyl alcohol.

The amount of fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms in the composition according to the invention ranges especially from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

The composition for dyeing keratin fibres according to the invention may also contain one or more surfactants.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferentially nonionic or anionic surfactants, and even more preferentially nonionic surfactants.

The composition of the invention may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The term "amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising in its structure one or more cationic sites and one or more anionic sites.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may be made of the compounds of respective structures (A1 ) and (A2) below:

R _a -C(0)-NH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ C(0)0 ^" , M ⁺ , X ^" (A1 ) in which formula (A1): • R _a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a C(0)OH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

• R _b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

• R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

• M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

• X ^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M ⁺ and X ^" are absent;

R _a '-C(0)-NH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (A2) which formula (A2):

• B represents the group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-X';

• B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _Z Y', with z = 1 or 2;

• X' represents the group -CH ₂ -C(0)OH, -CH ₂ -C(0)OZ', -CH ₂ - CH ₂ -C(0)OH, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

• Y' represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ Z';

• Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

• R _a ' represents a Ci ₀ -C ₃ o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a '-C(0)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of Ci7 and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci ₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ^® C2M Concentrate.

More particularly, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from the betaine surfactants of formula (A3), and also the acid or base salts thereof, and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

in which formula (A3):

• R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon- based chain, comprising from 6 to 100 carbon atoms and in particular from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted with one or more heteroatoms, divalent groups, or combinations thereof chosen from -0-, -C(O)- and -N(R)-; with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a CrC ₄ alkyl radical, and R ¹ also possibly being interrupted with an arylene group or terminated with an aryl group;

• R ² and R ³ , which may be identical or different, in particular R ² and R ³ are identical, denote a (CrC ₆ )alkyl group; preferably, R ² and R ³ represent a methyl group;

• R ⁴ denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, divalent hydrocarbon- based radical, comprising from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups;

• Z denotes a heteroatom or a divalent group chosen from -O- and -N(R)- with R as defined previously,

• n denotes a number equal to 1 or 2;

• m denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1 ;

• G ^" denotes an anionic radical chosen from carboxylates, sulfates, sulfonates, phosphates and phosphonates ( ^* -C(0)-0 ^" , ^* -S(0) ₂ -0 ^" , ^* -0-S(0) ₂ -0 ^" , ^* - P(0) ₂ -0 ^" , ^* -P(0)-0 ₂ ^" , ^* -P(OH)-0 ^" , ^** =P(0)-0 ^" and ^** =P-0 ^" ; with " ^* -" denoting the point of attachment of the anionic radical to the rest of the molecule via Z or R ⁴ when n is 1 , and " ^** =" representing the two points of attachment of the anionic radical via Z or R ⁴ when n is 2);

eing understood that:

- when n is 2, the radicals R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ -R'-(Z) _m - are identical or different, preferably identical; and

- the surfactant of formula (A3) being electrically neutral, it may comprise anionic and/or cationic counterions to produce the electrical neutrality of the molecule.

The term "unsaturated" hydrocarbon-based chain means a hydrocarbon- based chain which comprises one or more double bonds and/or one or more triple bonds, the said bonds possibly being conjugated or non-conjugated.

The term "alkyl radical" means a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon- based radical, preferably of Ci-C _8.

The term "alkenyl radical" means a linear or branched, preferably C ₂ -C ₈ , hydrocarbon-based radical; which is unsaturated, comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds.

The term "alkoxy radical" means an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a linear or branched Ci-Ci ₆ and preferentially Ci-C ₈ hydrocarbon-based radical.

The term "aryl" radical means a fused or non-fused monocyclic or polycyclic carbon-based group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and in which at least one ring is aromatic; preferentially, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl.

The term "arylene" radical means a fused or non-fused monocyclic or polycyclic divalent aromatic carbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and in which at least one ring is aromatic, preferably phenylene, more preferentially 1 ,3- or 1 ,4-phenylene. The term "optionally substituted" attributed to the radical in question means that the said radical may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from the following radicals: i) hydroxyl, ii) C1-C4 alkoxy, iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted with one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl radicals, the said alkyl radicals possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a 5- to 7- membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (A4) in which n is equal to 1 and G ^" denotes an anionic radical chosen from *-C(0)0 ^" and *-S(0) ₂ -0 ^" .

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (I) in which R ₄ denotes a linear C1-C5 divalent alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, such as -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (A3) in which m is 1 and Z represents an oxygen atom or a group -N(R)- with R as defined previously. More preferentially, when m is 1 , then Z represents an oxygen atom.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (A4) in which m is 0.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the betaine surfactant(s) are chosen from the surfactants of formula (A3) in which R ¹ denotes a group chosen from i) C ₆ -C ₃ o alkyl; ii) C ₆ -C ₃ o alkenyl; -alkyl(C ₆ -C ₃ o)-amido-(Ci- C ₄ )alkyl or -alkenyl(C6-C ₃ o)-amido-(Ci-C ₄ )alkyl, with amido representing a group -C(0)-N(R)- and R being as defined previously. Particularly, R denotes a hydrogen atom.

More particularly, R ¹ denotes a linear or branched, preferably linear, C ₆ -C ₃ o alkyl radical.

More particularly, the betaine surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ - C ₂ o)alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines and (C ₈ -C ₂ o)alkylamido(C6-C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines, better still from (C ₈ -C ₂ o)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines and even better still from (C ₈ -C ₂ o)alkylbetaines.

Even more preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant according to the invention is cocobetaine. The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C(0)OH, -C(0)0 ^" , -SO ₃ H, -S(0) ₂ 0 ^" , -OS(0) ₂ OH, -OS(0) ₂ 0 ^{" ■} -P(0)OH ₂ , -P(0) ₂ 0 ^" , -P(0)0 ₂ ^" , -P(OH) ₂ , =P(0)OH, -P(OH)0 ^" , =P(0)0 ^" , =POH and =PO ^" , the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline- earth metal or an ammonium.

Mention may be made, as examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, oolefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactosideuronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Use is preferably made, among the anionic surfactants mentioned, of (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₂ 4)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, it is preferable to use (Ci ₂ -C ₂ o)alkyl sulfates, (Ci ₂ -C ₂ o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Better still, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.

The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:

- those corresponding to the general formula (A4) below:

in which formula (A4):

R ₈ to Rii, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R ₈ to Rn comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and

X ^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. The aliphatic groups of R ₈ to Rn may also comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups of R ₈ to Rn are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci ₂ -C22)alkylamido(C2-C ₆ )alkyl, (C12- C ₂ 2)alkyl acetate and Ci-C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups, X ^" is an anionic counterion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl sulfates, and (C C ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A4), preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (A5) below:

(A5) in which formula (A5):

R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

Ri ₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

i4 represents a C C ₄ alkyl group;

Ri ₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C C ₄ alkyl group;

X ^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylaryl sulfonates. R-12 and Ri ₃ preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, Ri ₄ denotes a methyl group, and R-I5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, particularly of formula (A6) below:

2+

(CH ₂ ) ₃ — N— 21 2X ^"

"20

(A6) in which formula (A6):

^■ R-I6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;

^■ R-I7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH ₂ )3-N ⁺ (R _16a )(R ₁₇ a)(Ri8a), X ^" ;

^■ R _16a , Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

^■ X ^" , which may be identical or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);

quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (A7) below:

in which formula (A7): R22 is chosen from CrC ₆ alkyl groups and CrC ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R23 is chosen fr

- the group

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₇ ,

- a hydrogen atom, is chosen fr the group - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₉ ,

- a hydrogen atom,

^■ R24, R26 and R ₂ 8, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

■ r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

^■ r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 , with r2+r1 =2r and t1 +t2=2t,

^■ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

^■ x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, ■ X ^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion,

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z equals from 1 to 15, that, when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that, when z is 0, then R ₂₅ denotes R ₂ g.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is an R ₂₇ hydrocarbon-based group, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is an R ₂₉ hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R ₂ 6 and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂ i hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂ i alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1 .

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, equal 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X ^" is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (CrC ₄ )alkyl sulfate or a (CrC ₄ )alkyl- or (CrC ₄ )alkylarylsulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anionic counterion X ^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (A7) in which:

- R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the group

methyl, ethyl or Ci ₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups,

a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₅ is chosen from: • the group

• a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂ 4, 26 and R ₂ 8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated

C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (A7), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of monoesters, diesters and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16-178. They are especially chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (CrC ₂ o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to especially range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to especially range from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl polyglycosides, alkyl glucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

The nonionic surfactants are chosen more particularly from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated or mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:

• oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂ 4)alkylphenols;

• saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃ o alcohols;

• saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃ o amides;

• esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃ o acids and of polyethylene glycols;

• polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃ o acids and of sorbitol; • saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;

• condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures;

• oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones.

The surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

In accordance with one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide; polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and of sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄ o alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols correspond to formula (A8) below:

R ₂₉ 0-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-0] _m -H (A8) in which formula (A8):

^■ R ₂ 9 represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ and preferably C ₈ -C ₃ o alkyl or alkenyl radical; and

^■ m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.

As examples of compounds of formula (A8) that are suitable within the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

The alcohol of formula (A8) may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture. Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C ₈ /Ci ₀ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C ₁₀ /C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) may be represented by formula (A9) below:

in which:

Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

R ₂ represents an alkylene group comprising from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a saccharide unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, and

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) correspond to formula

(A9) in which:

Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose, - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and is preferably 0, and

R ₂ and v are as defined previously.

The degree of polymerization of the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) as represented, for example, by the index v in formula (A9) ranges on average from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization more particularly ranges from 1 to 2 and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.

The glycoside bonds between the saccharide units are of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type.

Compounds of formula (A9) that may be used in the present invention are especially represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 1 10 (or Oramix CG 1 10) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.

It is also possible, for example, to use the 1 -4 (C ₈ -Ci ₆ )alkylpolyglucoside as an aqueous solution at 53% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution, sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

The preferred nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglucoside type that may be used in the composition according to the invention is the (C ₈ -Ci ₀ )alkylglucoside sold under the name Oramix CG 1 10 by the company SEPPIC.

Preferably, the surfactant used in the process of the invention in the composition is a monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, particularly monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated, or monooxypropylenated or polyoxypropylenated, nonionic surfactant, or a combination thereof, more particularly monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants.

According to one variant of the invention, the composition and the process for treating (dyeing) keratin fibres use one or more surfactants chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, alkyl(poly)glucosides and/or one or more anionic surfactants, in particular of alkyl(ether) sulfate type.

More particularly, the surfactant(s) present in the composition are chosen from nonionic surfactants. Even more preferentially, the additional nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and alkyl(poly)glucosides, and mixtures thereof.

In the composition of the invention, the amount of surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.1 % to 50% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

c) (2, 5-Diaminophenyl)ethanol oxidation bases: The composition of the invention comprises c) one or more oxidation bases chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol (or 2- -hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine) of the following formula, and also acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates:

The oxidation base(s) chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol and also acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates, according to the invention, are advantageously in an amount ranging from 0.0001 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.01 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional oxidation bases, i.e. oxidation bases other than (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the additional base(s) are chosen from heterocyclic bases and benzene bases, and the addition salts thereof.

The benzene oxidation bases according to the invention are particularly chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols and ortho-aminophenols, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, Ν,Ν-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis( - hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para- phenylenediamine, N-( -hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-( - hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-( ,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β- hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-acetylaminoethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, N-( -methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4- aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethylamino-5- aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1 -(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine or PPD, para-tolylenediamine or PTD, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β- hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( - hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β- acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis-( - hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetra- methylenediamine, N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylene- diamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'- bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6- dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( -hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.

The heterocyclic bases according to the invention are more particularly chosen from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof. Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the dyeing process according to the invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid- 3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-6-ol and 3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, and the addition salts thereof.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571 , JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6- diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and addition salts thereof, and tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Mention may be made, among pyrazole derivatives, of the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -(4'- chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1 - phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 ,3-dimethyl-5- hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-(ie f-butyl)-1 - methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -(ie f-butyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -(β- hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethyl-3-(hydroxymethyl)pyrazole, 4,5- diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1 - isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1 -isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'- aminoethyl)amino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-3,4,5- triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1 -methyl-4-(methylamino)pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-( - hydroxyethyl)amino-1 -methylpyrazole and the addition salts thereof. 4,5-Diamino-1-(P- methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used. A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even more preferentially 4,5- diamino-1-( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or one of the salts thereof.

Mention may also be made, as pyrazole derivatives, of diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7- dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 - one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-dimethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-diethyl-1 ,2- dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-di(2-hydroxyethyl)-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2- amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2- amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2,3-diamino- 5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1 H,6H-pyridazino[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4-amino-1 ,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1 ,2- diethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1 -one.

Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1 -one and/or one of the salts thereof.

Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-diamino-1-(P- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 - one and/or one of the salts thereof.

The additional oxidation base(s) according to the invention each advantageously represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

d) Additional couplers

The composition of the invention may comprise one or more couplers. According to one preferred embodiment, the composition and the process use one or more couplers. Among these couplers, mention may be made especially of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and the addition salts thereof.

Mention may be made, for example, of 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2 methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(3 hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(3-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methoxybenzene, 1 ,3- diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1 - dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1 -3-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, oc- naphthol, 2-methyl-1 -naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N- methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6- dimethoxypyridine, 1 -N-(3-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(3- hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1 -H-3- methylpyrazol-5-one, 1 -phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1 ,5-b]-1 ,2,4- triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1 ,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with an acid, and mixtures thereof.

The coupler(s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are selected in particular from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

In one variant of the invention, the composition does not contain any para- phenylenediamine (PPD) and/or the process for treating keratin fibres does not use PPD. According to another advantageous embodiment, the composition and/or the process for treating keratin fibres do not use chlorinated bases or halogenated couplers, in particular chlorinated bases or couplers such as those chosen from 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 2,6-dichloro-4-aminophenol, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, 3-amino-5- chloroaniline, 2-chloro-4-aminophenol and 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol. According to another particular embodiment, the composition and/or the process for treating keratin fibres do not use 3-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-1 -propanol couplers.

Additional dyes

The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more direct dyes. The latter are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic entities, preferably cationic or nonionic entities. These direct dyes may be synthetic or of natural origin.

Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; methine direct dyes; carbonyl direct dyes; azine direct dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl direct dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane direct dyes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures. More particularly, the azo dyes comprise an -N=N- function in which the two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded for one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N=N- to be engaged in a ring.

The dyes of the methine family are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from >C=C< and -N=C< in which the two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is pointed out that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences may be engaged in a ring. More particularly, the dyes of this family are derived from compounds of the type such as methines, azomethines, monoarylmethanes and diarylmethanes, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanines, azacarbocyanines and isomers thereof, diazacarbocyanines and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanines and hemicyanines.

As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, examples that may be mentioned include dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.

As regards the dyes of the cyclic azine family, mention may be made especially of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine and pyronin.

The nitro(hetero)aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.

As regards the dyes of porphyrin or phthalocyanine type, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for instance alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.

Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanines, for instance tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes; indigoid direct dyes; phthalocyanine direct dyes, porphyrin direct dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

Among the natural dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, haematein, haematoxylin, brazilein, brazilin and orceins. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions comprising these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts. When they are present, the direct dye(s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. e) Additional basifying agents: The composition of the invention may also comprise e) one or more basifying agents. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition and the process for treating keratin fibres use one or more basifying agents. The basifying agent(s) may be mineral or organic or hybrid.

The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.

The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pK _b at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pK _b corresponding to the function of highest basicity. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise an alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic basifying agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (A10) below:

^R «\ N - W - N A

/ \

^ ^R < (A10) in which formula (A10) W is a divalent CrC ₆ alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a CrC ₆ alkyl radical; and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR _U ; R _x , R _y , R _z , R _t and R _u , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C ₆ alkyl, Ci-C ₆ hydroxyalkyi or Ci-C ₆ aminoalkyl radical. Examples of amines of formula (A10) that may be mentioned include 1 ,3- diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

The term "alkanolamine" means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC ₈ alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

The organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci-C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.

Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N- dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids can be in the neutral or ionic form.

Mention may in particular be made, as amino acids which can be used in the present invention, of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine functional group optionally included in a ring or in a ureido functional group.

Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula

(A11) below:

NH,

_ / ²

R CH ₂ — CH^

C0 ₂ H _{(A1 1 )} in which formula (A11) R represents a group chosen from: imidazolyl, preferably 4-imidazolyl; -(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH ₂ ; -(CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ ; -(CH ₂ ) ₂ -NH-C(0)-NH ₂ ; and

-(CH ₂ ) ₂ NH C— NH ₂

N ^H The compounds corresponding to formula (III) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

The organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Mention may in particular be made, in addition to histidine, already mentioned in the amino acids, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole or benzimidazole.

The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and balenine.

The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type that can be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid. Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.

Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used in particular.

Preferably, the basifying agent(s) present in the composition of the invention are chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those having the formula (A11). More preferably still, the basifying agent(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA) and basic amino acids in neutral or ionic form.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of basifying agent(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a first particular embodiment, the composition does not contain or else the process according to the invention does not use any aqueous ammonia, or one of the salts thereof, as basifying agent. If, however, according to another particular embodiment, the composition or the process did use some, its content would advantageously not exceed 0.03% by weight (expressed as NH ₃ ) and would preferably not exceed 0.01 % by weight relative to the weight of the composition of the invention. Preferably, if the composition comprises aqueous ammonia, or one of the salts thereof, then the amount of basifying agent(s) other than the aqueous ammonia is greater than that of the aqueous ammonia (expressed as NH ₃ ). f) Chemical oxidizing agent

The composition of the invention comprises f) one or more chemical oxidizing agents. The term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen. The composition of the invention preferably contains one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates or perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates.

This oxidizing agent advantageously consists of hydrogen peroxide.

The concentration of chemical oxidizing agents may range more particularly from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition of the invention does not contain any peroxygenated salts.

Solvent The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more organic solvents.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The organic solvent(s), if they are present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 % to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Other additives

The composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays or talc; organic thickeners with, in particular, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.

The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition may especially comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or mixtures thereof.

The organophilic clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, as organophilic clays, of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature pyrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas having a large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by Degussa and Cab- O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction for the purpose of reducing the number of silanol groups. It is possible in particular to replace silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot; - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by Cabot. The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified fumed silica.

When it is present, the mineral thickener represents from 1 % to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more organic thickeners.

These thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut acid diethanolamide or monoethanolamide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners, such as cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic regions and hydrophobic regions having a fatty chain (alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) which are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules).

According to a specific embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum) and crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulose thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.

The content of organic thickener(s), if they are present, usually varies from 0.01 % to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may be in various forms, for instance a solution, an emulsion (milk or cream) or a gel, preferably in the form of an emulsion and particularly of a direct emulsion.

Processes of the invention

The composition according to the invention comprising the ingredients a) to f) as defined previously is applied to dry or wet keratin fibres. It is left in place on the fibres for a time generally of from 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the dyeing process is conventionally between ambient temperature (between 15°C and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between ambient temperature and 60°C.

After the treatment, the human keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.

The composition according to the invention is generally prepared by mixing at least two compositions.

In a first variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprising the ingredients a) to f) as defined previously is derived from the mixing of two compositions:

- a composition (A) comprising c) at least one oxidation base chosen from (2,5- diaminophenyl)ethanol and also acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates; d) optionally at least one coupler as defined previously; e) at least one basifying agent as defined previously; and

- a composition (B) comprising f) at least one chemical oxidizing agent as defined previously,

it being understood that:

- at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) comprises a) at least one fatty substance that is preferably a non-silicone liquid as defined previously, and b) at least one fatty alcohol comprising at least 20 carbon atoms as defined previously, such that the total fatty substance content of the composition according to the invention resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) + (B) comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, better still at least 20% by weight and even better still at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of (A)+(B).

Preferentially, at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) is aqueous. Even more preferentially, both the compositions (A) and (B) are aqueous.

The term "aqueous composition" means a composition comprising at least 5% water. Preferably, an aqueous composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water and more advantageously still more than 20% by weight of water.

Preferably, composition (A) is aqueous. In this variant, composition (A) comprises at least 50% of fatty substances and even more preferentially at least 50% of non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25°C).

Preferably, composition (A) is a direct or inverse emulsion and preferably a direct (O/W) emulsion.

In this variant, compositions (A) and (B) are preferably mixed in a weight ratio (A)/(B) ranging from 0.2 to 10 and better still from 0.5 to 2.

In a second variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprising ingredients a) to f) as defined previously is derived from the mixing of three compositions, the three compositions being aqueous or at least one of them being anhydrous.

More particularly, for the purposes of the invention, the expression "anhydrous cosmetic composition" means a cosmetic composition with a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and more preferably still less than 1 % by weight relative to the weight of the said composition. It should be noted that the water present in the composition is more particularly "bound water", such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the starting materials used in the preparation of the compositions according to the invention. In this second variant, use will preferably be made of two aqueous compositions

(Β') and (C) and an anhydrous composition (Α'). The anhydrous composition (Α') then preferably comprises a) at least one fatty substance as defined previously and more preferentially at least one liquid fatty substance. Composition (Β') then preferably comprises c) at least the oxidation base chosen from (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol and acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates and d) optionally at least one coupler as defined previously. Composition (C) then preferably comprises f) at least one chemical oxidizing agent as defined previously. The basifying agent(s) e) as defined previously are included in compositions (A) and/or (Β') and preferably solely in composition (Β'). The fatty alcohol(s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms as defined previously are included in at least one of the compositions (Α'), (Β') or (C), these three compositions being such that the fatty substance content of the composition according to the invention resulting from the mixing of the three compositions (A')+(B')+(C) comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, better still at least 20% by weight and even better still at least 25% by weight

relative to the total weight of the mixture of the three compositions (A')+(B')+(C). In this variant, the compositions (Α'), (Β') and (C) are preferably mixed in a weight ratio (A')+(B')/(C) ranging from 0.2 to 10 and better still from 0.5 to 2 and in a weight ratio (Α')/(Β') ranging from 0.5 to 10 and better still from 1 to 5. Finally, the invention relates to a first multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition (A) as described above and at least a second compartment containing composition (B) as described above, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention, provided that the amount of fatty substance in this formulation represents at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, better still at least 20% by weight and even better still at least 25% by weight relative to the weight of the formulation derived from the mixing of (A)+(B).

The invention also relates to a second multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition (Α') as described above and a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (Β') as described above and at least a third compartment comprising composition (C) as described above, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application to give the formulation after mixing according to the invention, provided that the total amount of fatty substance in this formulation represents at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, better still at least 20% by weight and even better still at least 25% by weight relative to the weight of the formulation derived from the mixing of (A')+(B')+(C).

The evaluation of the coloration can be done visually or read on a spectrocolori meter (such as Minolta CM3600d, illuminant D65, angle 10°, SCI values) for the L ^* , a ^* , b ^* colorimetric measurements. In this L ^* , a ^* , b ^* system, L ^* represents the intensity of the color, a ^* indicates the green/red color axis and b ^* indicates the blue/yellow color axis. The lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the color. The higher the value of a ^* , the redder the shade; the higher the value of b ^* , the yellower the shade. The variation in coloring between the colored locks of natural white hair (NW) which is untreated (control) and after treatment or coloration are defined by ΔΕ ^* , corresponding to the colour uptake on keratin fibers, according to the following equation:

ΔΕ * = - ( L ^* — L _o ^* ) ² + ( a ^* — a ₀ ^* f + ( b ^* - b ₀ ^* ) ²

In this equation, L ^* , a ^* and b ^* represent the values measured after dyeing the natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs and L ₀ ^* , a ₀ ^* and b ₀ ^* represent the values measured for the untreated natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs.

The greater the value of ΔΕ, the greater the difference in color between the control locks and the dyed locks and the greater colour uptake is.

On the other hand for evaluating the selectivity of the color between the root and tip of the keratin fiber, measurement can be done on permed or sensibilised white hair (PW) and natural white hair, wherein the variation in coloring between the colored locks PW and the colored natural white hair are defined by ΔΕ ^* , corresponding to the selectivity of the colour, is calculated according to the following equation:

ΔΕ * = - ( L ^* — L _o ^* ) ² + ( a ^* — a ₀ ^* f + ( b ^* - b ₀ ^* ) ²

In this equation, L ^* , a ^* and b ^* represent the values measured after dyeing the natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs and L ₀ ^* , a ₀ ^* and b ₀ ^* represent the values measured after dyeing the permed or sensibilised hair. The lowest ΔΕ ^* , the best homogeneity of the hair color.

If the light fastness is investigated, ΔΕ ^* is also calculated for the L ₀ ^* , a ₀ ^* , b ₀ ^* and L ^* , a ^* , b ^* measured of the locks before and after exposure to the light, respectively.

Chromaticity in the CIE L ^* , a ^* , b ^* colorimetric system is calculated according to the following equation :

The greater the value of C ^* , the greater the chromaticity is.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE

The following compositions are prepared, in which the amounts are expressed as grams of product per se:

Compositions A1 and B1

Ingredients A1

Liquid petrolatum (fatty substance a) 60

C ₂₀ -C ₂₂ Alcohols (fatty alcohol b) Nafol® 20-22 10

2-(2,5-Diaminophenyl)ethanol sulfate (oxidation base c) 1 .58

6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine (coupler d) 0.033

1-3-Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene dihydrochloride (coupler d) 0.02

1 ,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) (coupler d) 0.67

1 -Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene (coupler d) 0.12

Pure monoethanolamine (basifying agent e) 4.28

Carboxyvinyl polymer (Carbopol 980) 0.1

Oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol (10 OE) 1

Oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol (20 OE) 4

Oxyethylenated decyl alcohol (5 OE) 1 .2

Oxyethylenated (60 OE) (Ci ₆ /Ci ₈ ) cetylstearyl alcohol myristyl glycol

0.1 ether

Sequestrant 0.2

Reducing agent 0.22

Antioxidant 0.12

Deionized water qs Ingredients B1

Liquid petrolatum (fatty substance a) 20

Cetylstearyl alcohol (30/70 C16/C18) (fatty substance a) 6

Protected oxyethylenated (4 OE) rapeseed acid amide (fatty substance

1 .3 a)

Hydrogen peroxide as a 50% solution (200 vol. aqueous hydrogen

peroxide solution) 12

(chemical oxidizing agent f)

Tetrasodium pyrophosphate decahydrate 0.03

Non-stabilized polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride at 40% in water 0.5

Poly[(dimethyliminio)-1 ,3-propanediyl(dimethyliminio)-1 ,6-hexanediyl

0.25 dichloride] as an aqueous 60% solution

Glycerol 0.5

Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) 5

Disodium tin hexahydroxide 0.04

Vitamin E DL-oc-Tocopherol 0.1

Sequestrant 0.15

Deionized water qs

The dye composition A1 is mixed with the oxidizing formula B1 in a ratio of 1 part of A1 per 1 part of B1 .

The mixture A1 +B1 obtained is then applied to 90% grey hair. The "mixture/lock" bath ratio is 10/1 (g/g). The leave-on time is 35 minutes at 27°C.

After the leave-on time, the hair is rinsed with clear water and a shampoo is applied.

After drying, a light chestnut-brown shade of good strength and coverage is obtained on the hair.