Extracts of Coprinus comatus and their use for regulating the

pilosebaceous unit in a human

AREA OF INVENTION

[0001 ] The present invention refers to the area of cosmetics and is related to extracts of a specific fungus and its use for regulating the pilosebaceous unit in a human, particularly for treating cosmetic disorders of skin and promoting hair growth.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] In scientific literature, the pilosebaceous unit, also termed pilosebaceous apparatus, is described as the skin-associated appendage consisting of hair follicle, arrector pili muscle and sebaceous gland. Despite the sebaceous gland can exist also as independent organ, the hair follicle is constantly associated with one or more sebaceous glands, as well as with the other anatomic structures of the "pilosebaceous unit". The pilosebaceous unit represents an assemblage of organs strictly correlated from a functional point of view. I ndeed, the production of sebum is important for the protection and mechanical properties of human hair follicles, whereas the follicle infundibulum is the preferential way that allows the secretion of sebum on the surrounding skin surface.

[0003] Particularly, the present invention concerns cosmetic and medical uses of extracts of the mushroom Coprinus comatus for regulating pilosebaceous unit in order to stimulate hair growth, prevent hair-loss and down-regulating sebogenesis of sebaceous glands.

[0004] Throughout the last decades, the cosmetics and toiletry industry, as well as the der- matological industry, have dedicated increasing attention to the identification of natural compounds suitable for use in the preparation of body care products. The active ingredients extracted from natural organisms, especially if obtained with environmentally-friendly methods and without impacting the wild flora and fa una, have represented the higher growth trend in the cosmetics sector for at least 10 years. [0005] Research in the field of active ingredients of natural origin is therefore a very relevant and strategic aspect of the production chain, since it provides new compounds and widens the market for the cosmetics industry, while promoting "sustainable development" that reconciles economic progress with the social responsibility of preserving the planet's equilibri- um.

[0006] Treatments related to problems of the hair follicle, primarily hair loss, account for a total market of more than 10 billion US$ annually despite a lack of truly effective solutions. Hair loss represents the main problem to be solved and, presently, the 5-alpha-reductase inhibitors are considered the more active agents. 5-alpha-reductase is the key enzyme in- volved in the transformation of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), considered the main steroid compound responsible for hair loss in the androgenetic alopecia. The active products, commercially available as Minoxidil (Rogaine), Finasteride (Propecia) and Dutaster- ide (Avodart), have to be administered under medical surveillance and cannot be used to treat pregnant women. They can produce several undesired effects while giving satisfactory responses in a limited part of treated subjects. Herbal preparations claiming to induce hair growth are available at a low cost, but their effectiveness is usually very limited. The cosmetic and dermatological market, therefore, continuously asks for new natural extracts with an effective activity on the improvement of the hair follicle and the prevention of the hair loss, without contraindications for the consumer safety.

[0007] Another relevant issue connected with wellness and aesthetic of hair and skin is the regulation of the metabolic activity of the sebaceous gland.

[0008] Sebaceous glands are microscopic exocrine glands found throughout all areas of the skin except the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. They secret a natural oil, called sebum, which participates with the sweat to compose the hydrolipidic film that covers the skin. Human sebum is a complex mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, sterol esters, cholesterol, cholesterol esters and squalene. Sebum is involved in epidermal development and barrier maintenance, transporting antioxidants, contributing to mechanical protection and body odor. Sebum is directly involved in hormonal signaling, epidermal differentiation, and protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation. It cooperates to reduce skin water loss and modulates composition and proliferation of the natural micro-flora of the skin.

[0009] The overproduction of sebum by sebaceous glands of the scalp is the cause of greasy hair, which is considered a significant aesthetic problem. Many cosmetic treatments, in the form of medicated shampoos and lotions, are proposed to calm the scalp's overproduction of sebum. However, cosmetics companies continuously seek new products, especially if ob- tained from natural ingredients. Seborrhea is involved in the occurrence of dandruff, a disorder of the scalp characterized by patches of abundant and loosely adherent flakes, usually accompanied by itching. This accentuated desquamation of the scalp can evolve into seborrheic dermatitis, which is a severe form of dandruff accompanied by inflammation and erythema. The etiology of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis appears to be dependent upon three factors: sebaceous gland secretions, micro-flora metabolism, and individual susceptibility. The regulation of sebum production is therefore a pivotal issue for the prevention of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, and the present invention is related with this problem, among others.

[0010] Undesirable hyperactivity of sebaceous glands can a lso occur in other parts of the body, especially on the face. Here the overproduction of sebum gives the skin a shiny and aesthetically undesirable appearance (oily skin) and can promote other slight blemishes, such as comedones. In some cases, more serious disorders can occur in the presence of excessive sebum, such as acne, a skin disease characterized by an inflammatory process of the hair follicle and annexed sebaceous gland. Propionibacterium acnes is considered to be the infectious agent in acne. Elevated production of sebum by hyperactive sebaceous glands can favour P. acnes bacteria proliferation, causing the inflamed pustules (pimples) characteristic of acne. As a consequence, the cosmetics industry is strongly interested in acquiring compounds suitable to inhibit sebum production, especially if this activity is combined with antinflammatory and/or antimicrobial properties.

[0011 ] Finally, compounds suitable to regulate sebum production can also find application in products for intimate hygiene, since the female external genitals have many sebaceous glands. Mons pubis, labia majora, labia minora and the external side of the vaginal vestibule are rich in sebaceous glands and their sebum secretion interacts with the bacterial microflo- ra, regulating the pH of the genital area. The fresh sebum does not contain significant quantities of free fatty acids, but these are released as an effect of the lipases produced by bacteria, inducing the acidification of the genital environment. The regulation of sebum can therefore represent an important condition for preventing alterations of the genital microflora, irritations, itching, etc.

[0012] In the light of the above it is therefore apparent the need to provide for new cosmetic or therapeutic products for regulating the pilosebaceous unit and which are able to overcome the disadvantages of the known products.

[0013] Despite plants are the main source of natural active ingredients, on a quantitative basis, fungi, which are separated from the other eukaryotic organisms in a distinct kingdom according to the biological systematics, are another relevant and underexploited source of active compounds.

RELEVANT PRIOR ART

[0014] It is known that some species of fungi are already exploited as industrial source of bioactives to be used in cosmetics for several treatments. Coprinus comatus has been studied for its biological activities as skin lightening and antioxidant treatment (JP2016079135 A).

[0015] It has also disclosed anti-photoageing properties (JP2012092085 A). Fermented preparations obtained from Coprinus comatus have been studied by Han (University of Tra- ditional Chinese Medicine, Jinan, China) for their properties as glycemic regulator when administered to hyperglycemic mice (CN104974941 A).

[0016] Some antibacterial activities were disclosed for a C. comatus extract by GUYON ET AL (FR2664469 Al), with potential exploitation for the preservation of food.

[0017] Finally, experimental studies performed with sesquiterpenes isolated from this fungus, called illudins C2 and C3, showed that these compounds can suppress adipogenesis in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes and stimulate lipolysis in 3T3-L1 adipocytes [JOURNAL OF NATURAL PRODUCTS (2014), 77(4):744-750] .

[0018] US 2015 0320809 (BIOWISH) refers to compositions for improving human health and nutrition, particularly with respect to skin disorders such as acne or dermatitis. The compositions comprise a) a prebiotic, b) a probiotic comprising a mixture of Pediococcus acidilactici, Pediococcus pentosaceus, and Lactobacillus plantarum microorganisms produced by solid substrate and submerged liquid fermentation, and c). a postbiotic derived from the liquid fermentation medium of the Pediococcus acidilactici, Pediococcus pentosaceus, and Lactobacillus plantarum microorganisms. Said mixtures may also include vitamins, minerals, sugars, botanicals and fungal compounds, as for example Coprinus comatus. The document, however, is silent with respect to any extract of said fungus and its mechanism of action.

[0019] US 2011 0206721 Al (NAI R) claims dietary, health or supplements comprising a mushroom fermented in soy growth medium and at least one curcumonoid compound. The document, cites Coprinus comatus as a suitable fungus, but is totally silent with respect to any extracts. I n addition it should be noted that a fermentation product of a source typically includes different compounds when compared to an extract. OBJECT OF THE INVENTION

[0020] Therefore, it has been the object of the present invention providing a medicament and/or a non-therapeutic, cosmetic active agent for fighting disorders of human skin and loss of human hair, particularly associated with the pilosebaceous unit of a human. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021 ] A first object of the present invention refers to a n extract of Coprinus comatus obtained or obtainable according to the following protocol :

(a) providing a source of dry biomass of Coprinus comatus;

(b) extracting said source of biomass with water, Ci-C ₄ aliphatic alcohols or mixtures thereof;

(c) separating the extract thus obtained from the remaining cell material; and optionally (d) repeating steps (b) and (c) once or twice.

[0022] Another object of the present invention relates to a process for obtaining an extract of Coprinus comatus obtained or obtainable according to the following protocol:

(a) providing a source of dry biomass of Coprinus comatus;

(b) extracting said source of biomass with water, Ci-C ₄ aliphatic alcohols or mixtures thereof;

(c) separating the extract thus obtained from the remaining cell material; and optionally

(d) repeating steps (b) and (c) once or twice.

[0023] According to the present invention, it has been now found that extracts obtained from the studied fungus, Coprinus comatus, unexpectedly disclosed relevant activity as regulators of the hair follicle cycle and growth, as well as modulators of the sebaceous gland metabolism (or sebogenesis in human skin and hair). These biological activities are exerted without observing any toxic effect.

[0024] Also, nothing is reported in the prior art concerning the biological properties of aqueous and/or alcoholic extracts of Coprinus comatus as modulators of hair growth or regulator of sebum production.

[0025] This finding is based on a study of the effects produced by the fungal extracts in hair follicle cultivated in ex-vivo conditions. In this experimental model the human hair follicle is dissected from the scalp and maintained in artificial culture medium. In a few days, the hair follicles switch from the anagen phase, during which they grow, into the catagen phase, which is a controlled death process preceding the resting phase (telogen), during which the hair shaft is loss and the dermal papilla remains quiescent. The catagen onset observed in the experimental model mimics the hair loss process occurring in vivo quite well. The ideal strategy for an anti-hair loss treatment is to delay the onset of the catagen, since this pro- longs the anagen phase and maintains the follicle in a growing condition. In the experimental model here adopted, the persistence of the anagen phase can be estimated by evaluating the hair growth, which occurs at a quite constant rate only whereas the follicle stays in anagen. As a consequence, later the hair switches into the catagen, higher is the growth performance observed. The efficacy of an experimental treatment can be evaluated by compar- ing the hair growth of a treated group of follicles with the performance of an untreated group of follicles (control) taken from the same donor.

[0026] In addition, experimental data were obtained by testing the fungal extracts on ex vivo cultures of human sebaceous glands. This experimental model allows studying the effect of experimental stimuli on the metabolism of the whole human sebaceous gland, freshly explanted. This appears very advantageous in comparison with the use of sebocyte cell lines, which reproduce responses of isolated and immortalized cells. The sebaceous gland culture model is described in DE 10 2013 015560 Al (Cutech Sri). MEDICAMENT

[0027] Another object of the present invention is directed to an extract of Coprinus comatus for use as a medicament, particular for use as a medicament in the treatment or prevention of disorders of the pilosebaceous unit of a human.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment an extract is used obtained as described infra, i.e. by extraction of Coprinus comatus biomass with water, Ci-C ₄ aliphatic alcohols or their mixtures, preferably by means of aqueous ethanol.

[0029] The extracts according to the present invention may be prepared by methods known per se, for example, by aqueous, organic or aqueous/organic extraction of the fungal bio- mass using the solvents explained hereinafter. Suitable extraction processes are any conventional extraction processes such as maceration, re-maceration, digestion, agitation maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasonic extraction, counter current extraction, percolation, re- percolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid/liquid extraction under continuous reflux. Percolation is advantageous for industrial uses. Super- critical carbon dioxide extraction at high pressures could be an optimal method for preserving the fungus extract properties.

[0030] Any size reduction methods known to the expert, for example, freeze grinding, may be used. Preferred solvents for the extraction process are methanol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, ethyl acetate, hexane and water (preferably hot water with a temperature above 80 °C, and more particularly above 95 °C) or mixtures of said organic solvents and water, more particularly, low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents. An extraction with methanol, ethanol and water-containing mixtures thereof is particularly preferred. The extraction process is generally carried out at temperatures of from about 10 to about 100 °C. In one preferred embodiment, the extraction process is carried out in an inert gas atmos- phere to avoid the oxidation of the ingredients of the extract. This is particularly important where extraction is carried out at temperatures above 40 °C. The extraction times are selected by the expert depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, and the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc. After the extraction process, the crude extracts obtained may optionally be subjected to other typical steps, such as, for example, purification, concentration and/or decoloration, optionally with an additional treatment with active charcoal. If desired, the extracts thus prepared may be subjected, for example, to the selective removal of individually unwanted ingredients. The extraction process may be carried out to any degree, but is usually continued to exhaustion. Typical yields (=extract dry matter based on the quantity of raw material used) in the extraction of the starting materials are of the order of from about 1 to about 40 %, preferably from about 2 to about 20%, and more preferably from about 4 to about 10% b.w., calculated on the starting materials. A specific process for the preparation of the extract of the present invention is described in the examples. [0031 ] The extract of Coprinus comatus according to the present invention can be obtained by a particularly preferred process comprising a) contacting Coprinus comatus with a solvent selected from the group consisting of C1-C4 aliphatic alcohols, water or mixture thereof, optionally by heating; b) removing the residue; and c) recovering the extract from the sol- vent. According to step a) of the process, the fungus biomass can be cultivated or wild Coprinus comatus. I n addition, Coprinus comatus can be in form of dried powder. Coprinus comatus is preferably lyophilized immediately after the harvesting.

[0032] For the sake of good order, the term "disorder" refers to an abnormal or disturbed condition of the organs participating to the pilosebaceous unit, which interferes with their optimal metabolic equilibrium, their physiological processes or their healthiness. The disorders connected with the pilosebaceous unit can be chosen from the group consisting of hair loss due to alopecia, such as androgenic alopecia, or to chemotherapy, telogen effluvium, dandruff, acne, comedones, pimples, itch, pruritus vulvae, seborrhea, seborrheic dermatitis.

[0033] The extracts for use may comprise at least one anti-inflammatory agent and/or hair growth activator.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY AGENTS

[0034] The anti-inflammatory agents can be steroidal substances of the corticosteroid type selected from the group consisting of hydrocortisone, dexamethasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methyl prednisolone or cortisone, are advantageously used as anti-inflammatory active ingredients or active ingredients to relieve reddening and itching, the list of which can be extended by the addition of other steroidal anti-inflammatories. Non-steroidal antiinflammatories can also be used. Examples which can be cited here are oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam; salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal; acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clindanac; fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic; propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen or pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxy- phenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone. Anthranilic acid derivatives, in particular av- enanthramides described in WO 2004 047833 Al, are preferred anti-itch ingredients in a composition according to the present invention.

[0035] Also useful are natural or naturally occurring anti-inflammatory mixtures of substances or mixtures of substances that alleviate reddening and/or itching, in particular extracts or fractions from camomile, Aloe vera, Commiphora species, Rubia species, willow, willow-herb, oats, calendula, arnica, St John's wort, honeysuckle, rosemary, Passiflora incar- nata, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea; and/or pure substances, preferably alpha-bisabolol, apigenin, apigenin-7-glucoside, gingerols, shogaols, gingerdiols, dehydrogingerdiones, par- adols, natural or naturally occuring avenanthramides, preferably tranilast, avenanthramide A, avenanthramide B, avenanthramide C, non-natural or non-naturally occuring avenanthramides, preferably dihydroavenanthramide D (as described in WO 2004 047833 Al), di- hydroavenanthramide E, avenanthramide D, avenanthra mide E, avenanthramide F, boswellic acid, phytosterols, glycyrrhizin, glabridin and licochalcone A; , and/or allantoin, panthenol, lanolin, (pseudo-)ceramides [preferably Ceramide 2, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide M EA, cetyloxypropyl glyceryl methoxypropyl myristamide, N-(l-hexadecanoyl)-4-hydroxy-L-proline (1-hexadecyl) ester, hydroxyethyl palmityl oxyhydroxypropyl palmitamide], glycosphin- golipids, phytosterols, chitosan, mannose, lactose and β-glucans, in particular 1,3-1,4-β- glucan from oats.

[0036] When bisabolol is used in the context of the present invention it can be of natural or synthetic origin, and is preferably "alpha-bisabolol". Preferably, the bisabolol used is syn- thetically prepared or natural (-)-alpha-bisabolol and/or synthetic mixed-isomer alpha- bisabolol. If natural (-)-alpha-bisabolol is used, this can also be employed as a constituent of an essential oil or of a plant extract or of a fraction thereof, for example as a constituent of (fractions of) oil or extracts of camomile or of Va nillosmopsis (in particular Vanillosmopsis erythropappa or Vanillosmopsis arborea). Synthetic alpha-bisabolol is obtainable, for exam- pie, under the name "Dragosantol" from Symrise.

[0037] In case ginger extract is used in the context of the present invention, preferably extracts of the fresh or dried ginger root are used which are prepared by extraction with methanol, ethanol, iso-propanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, carbon dioxide (C02), hexane, methylene chloride, chloroform or other solvents or solvent mixtures of comparable polarity. The extracts are characterized by the presence of active skin irritation-reducing amounts of constituents such as e.g. gingerols, shogaols, gingerdiols, dehydrogingerdiones and/or paradols.

HAIR GROWTH ACTIVATORS

[0038] As mentioned above, formulations and products according to the present invention may also comprise one or more hair growth activators, i.e. agents to stimulate hair growth. Hair growth activators are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4-diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminexil), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidino- pyrimidine-3-oxide (Minoxidil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-l,2-dihydro-l-hydroxy-2- imino-4-piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theo- bromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquerce- tin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibitors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate and C1-C6 alkyl nicotinate, proteins such as for example the tripeptide Lys-Pro- Val, diphencypren, hormons, finasteride, dutasteride, flutamide, bicalutamide, pregnane derivatives, progesterone and its derivatives, cyproterone acetate, spironolactone and other diuretics, calcineurin inhibitors such as FK506 (Tacrolimus, Fujimycin) and its derivatives, Cyclosporin A and derivatives thereof, zinc and zinc salts, polyphenols, procyanidins, proan- thocyanidins, phytosterols such as for example beta-sitosterol, biotin, eugenol, (±)-beta- citronellol, panthenol, glycogen for example from mussels, extracts from microorganisms, algae, plants and plant parts of for example the genera dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), Orthosiphon, Vitex, Coffea, Paullinia, Theobroma, Asiasarum, Cucurbita or Styphnolo- bium, Serenoa repens (saw palmetto), Sophora flavescens, Pygeum africanum, Panicum mil- iaceum, Cimicifuga racemosa, Glycine max, Eugenia caryophyllata, Cotinus coggygria, Hibis- cus rosa-sinensis, Camellia sinensis, I lex paraguariensis, Isochrysis galbana, licorice, grape, apple, barley or hops or/and hydrolysates from rice or wheat.

[0039] The extracts - calculated as dry matter - and the a nti-inflammation agents and/or hair growth activators may be present in ratios by weight of from about 10:90 to about 90:10. Preferably about 25 :75 to about 75 :25 and most preferably from about 40:60 to about 60:40.

[0040] Finally the extracts for use may be applied topically on human skin or scalp or by oral administration, for example formulated as a cream, an ointment, a lotion, a capsule or a pressed tablet. COSMETIC. PERSONAL CARE AND OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS

[0041 ] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic or personal care or pharmaceutical composition comprising the extract as defined infra and a cosmically or pharmaceutically carrier, such as for example water, aliphatic Ci-C ₄ alcohols, polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol or propylene glycol or oil bodies as defined later. The amount of carriers calculated on the cosmetic composition may range from about 10 to about 90 % wt.- %, preferably about 20 to about 80 wt.-% and most preferably about 30 to about 60 wt.-%.

The cosmetic or personal care or pharmaceutical composition may represent a skin care, hair care and/or sun care product, such as for example a cosmetic cream, lotion, spray, emulsion, ointment, gel or mouse and the like. Typical examples are skin creams and hair shampoos, antiperspirants and soaps.

[0002] The preparations according to the invention may contain abrasives, anti-acne agents, agents against ageing of the skin, anti-cellulitis agents, antidandruff agents, antiinflammatory agents, irritation-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents, antioxidants, astringents, perspiration-inhibiting agents, antiseptic agents, ant-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, depilatory agents, surface-active substances, deodorizing agents, antiperspirants, softeners, emulsifi- ers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foam-forming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foa m boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleaching agents, strengthening agents, stain-removing agents, optically brightening agents, impregnating agents, dirt- repellent agents, friction-reducing agents, lubricants, moisturizing creams, ointments, opacifying agents, plasticizing agents, covering agents, polish, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins, re-oiling agents, abrading agents, silicones, skin-soothing agents, skin-cleansing agents, skin care agents, skin-healing agents, skin-lightening agents, skin-protecting agents, skin-softening agents, hair promotion agents, cooling agents, skin-cooling agents, warming agents, skin-warming agents, stabilizers, UV-absorbing agents, UV filters, detergents, fabric conditioning agents, suspending agents, skin-tanning agents, thickeners, vitamins, oils, wax- es, fats, phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids, a- hydroxy acids, polyhydroxyfatty acids, liquefiers, dyestuffs, colour-protecting agents, pigments, anti-corrosives, aromas, flavouring substances, odoriferous substances, polyols, surfactants, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives and the like as additional auxiliaries and additives.

SURFACTANS

[0003] Preferred auxiliaries and additives are anionic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, al- kanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oli- goglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfac- tants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolin- ium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are all known compounds. Information on their structure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works, cf. for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloladditive (Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pages 123-217. The percentage content of surfactants in the preparations may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation. OIL BODIES

[0004] Suitable oil bodies, which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C ₂₂ -fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C ₂ 2-fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-C 13-carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myri- styl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl eru- cate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C6-C ₂₂ - fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C18-C38- alkylhy- droxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, in particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6 -Cio-fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Cis-fatty acids, esters of C6- C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ - Ci ₂ -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C ₂₂ -fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), Guerbet carbonates, based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C6-C ₂₂ -alcohols (e.g. Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

EMULSIFIERS

[0005] Other surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers, including for example:

• products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear Cs- ₂₂ fatty alcohols, onto Ci ₂ - ₂₂ fatty acids and onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol;

glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof;

addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;

polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isos- tearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also suitable;

addition products of 2 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;

partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, - dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (for example cellulose);

mono-, di and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;

wool wax alcohols;

polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives;

mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of C6-22 fatty acids, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,

polyalkylene glycols and

glycerol carbonate.

[0006] The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known commercially available products. They are homo- logue mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formu- lations. The preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail as follows: [0007] Partial glycerides. Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities of triglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial gly- cerides mentioned are also suitable.

[0008] Sorbitan esters. Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan ses- quierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan ses- quiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

[0009] Polyglycerol esters. Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglycer- yl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^* PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ^* TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ^* Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ^® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ^* 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina ^* ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane ^* N L), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor ^® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admuf WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.

[0010] Anionic emulsifiers. Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic C12-22 fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid for example, and C12-22 dicarboxylic acids, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid for example.

[0011 ] Amphoteric emulsifiers. Other suitable emulsifiers are amphboteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example coco- acylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3- hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Ampholyt- ic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs/is alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H- group in the molecule and which are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl- amidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids containing around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C12/18 acyl sarcosine.

SUPERFATTING AGENTS AND CONSISTENCY FACTORS

[0012] Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

[0013] The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12- hydroxystea rates is preferably used.

THICKENING AGENTS AND RHEOLOGY ADDITIVES

[0014] Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil ^® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols ^® [Goodrich] or Synthalens ^® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for exa mple, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride. POLYMERS

[0015] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400 ^® , cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acryla- mides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luvi- quat ^® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lame- quat ^® L, Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylamino- hydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Carta retine ⁸ , Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat ⁸ 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, for example bis- dimethylamino-l,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example, Jaguar ^e CBS, Jaguar ^e C- 17, Jaguar ^e C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example, Mirapof A-15, Mirapof AD-1, Mirapof AZ-1 of Miranol and the various polyquaternium types (for example 6, 7, 32 or 37) which can be found in the market under the tradenames Rheocare ⁸ CC or UltrageT 300.

[0016] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacryl- amide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacry- late copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyr- rolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

PEARLIZING WAXES

[0017] Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hy- droxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, espe- daily long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hy- droxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

SILICONES

[0018] Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid and resin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dime- thylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Todd et al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

WAXES AND STABILIZERS

[0019] Besides natural oils used, waxes may also be present in the preparations, more es- pecially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espar- tograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

[0020] Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers. PRIMARY SUN PROTECTION FACTORS

[0021 ] Primary sun protection factors in the context of the invention are, for example, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.

[0022] The formulations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadband filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. Formulations according to the invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadband filter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter.

[0023] Preferred cosmetic compositions, preferably topical formulations according to the present invention comprise one, two, three or more sun protection factors selected from the group consistiung of 4-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzo- phenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, diphenyl acrylates, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, benzofuran derivatives, benzylidene malonate derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers containing one or more organosilicon radicals, cinnamic acid deriva- tives, camphor derivatives, trianilino-s-triazine derivatives, 2-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives and salts thereof, anthranilic acid menthyl esters, benzotriazole derivativesand indole derivatives.

[0024] In addition, it is advantageous to combine compounds of formula (I) with active ingredients which penetrate into the skin and protect the skin cells from inside against sun- light-induced damage and reduce the level of cutaneous matrix metalloproteases. Preferred respective ingredients, so called arylhydrocarbon receptor antagonists, are described in WO 2007/128723, incorporated herein by reference. Preferred is 2-benzylidene-5,6-dimethoxy- 3,3-dimethylindan-l-one.

[0025] The UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of the present in- vention are preferred but naturally are not limiting.

[0026] UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the group consisting of

• p-aminobenzoic acid

• p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA)

• p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester

· p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (2 mol) N-propoxylated

• p-aminobenzoic acid glycerol ester

• salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (homosalates) (Neo Heliopan®HMS)

• salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS)

• triethanolamine salicylate

· 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate

• anthranilic acid menthyl ester (Neo Heliopan®MA)

• diisopropyl cinnamic acid ethyl ester

• p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV)

• diisopropyl cinnamic acid methyl ester

· p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E 1000)

• p-methoxycinnamic acid diethanolamine salt

• p-methoxycinnamic acid isopropyl ester

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and salts (Neo Heliopan®Hydro) • 3-(4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate

• beta-imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid)

• 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts

• 3-(4'-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC)

• 3-benzylidene-D,L-camphor

• N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl] acrylamide polymer

• 4,4'-[(6-[4-(l,l-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]- bis-(benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb®HEB)

• benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX)

• glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate

• dipropylene glycol salicylate

• tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4"-(l,3,5-triazine-2A6-triyltriimino )tribenzoate (= 2,4,6- trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-l'-oxy)-l,3,5-triazine) (Uvinul®T150).

[0027] Broadband filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of

• 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan®303)

• ethyl-2-cyano-3,3'-diphenyl acrylate

• 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB)

• 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid

• dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

• 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone

• tetrahydroxybenzophenone

• 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone

• 2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone

• 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methyl benzophenone

• sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate

• disodium-2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-5,5'-disulfobenzophen one

• phenol, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(l,3,3,3-tetr amethyl-l-(trime- thylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl) propyl) (Mexoryl®XL) • 2,2'-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb®M)

• 2,4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-l,3,5-triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methox yphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb®S)

• 2,4-bis-[{(4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phe nyl]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine sodium salt

• 2,4-bis-[{(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phe nyl]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-[4-(2-meth oxyethyl carbonyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}p henyl]-6-[4-(2- ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(l-methylp yrrol-2-yl)-l,3,5-triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{4-tris-(trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}p henyl]-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{4-(2"-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-me thoxyphenyl)-l,3,5- triazine

• 2,4-bis-[{4-(l',l',l',3',5',5',5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2"-methy lpropyloxy)-2- hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine.

[0028] The compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV-A filters filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of

• 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane

• terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl®SX)

• 4-t-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (avobenzone) / (Neo Heliopan®357)

• phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo Heliopan®AP)

• 2,2'-(l,4-phenylene)-bis-(lH-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid), monosodium salt

• 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul® A Plus)

• indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 Al (= WO 2002 038537 Al) [0029] The compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV filters which are more preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of

• p-aminobenzoic acid

• 3-(4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidene bornan-2-one methyl sulfate

• salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (Neo Heliopan®HMS)

• 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB)

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan®Hydro)

• terephthalylidene dibornane sulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl®SX)

• 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Neo Heliopan®357)

• 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidene bornan-2-one and salts

• 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Neo Heliopan®303)

• N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl]benzyl] acrylamide polymer

• p-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV)

• p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated (INCI name: PEG-25 PABA)

• p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E1000)

• 2A6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-l'-oxy)-l,3,5-triazine (Uvinul®T150)

• phenol, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(l,3,3,3-tetr amethyl-l-(trime- thylsilyl)oxy)disiloxyanyl) propyl) (Mexoryl®XL)

• 4,4'-[(6-[4-(l,l-dimethyl)aminocarbonyl) phenylamino]-l,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]- bis-(benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb HEB)

• 3-(4'-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC)

• 3-benzylidene camphor

• salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS)

• 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Padimate 0)

• hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and Na salt

• 2,2'-methylene bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb®M)

• phenylene bis-benzimidazyl tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo Heliopan®AP) • 2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}phenyl]-6-(4-methox yphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb®S)

• benzylidene malonate polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX)

• menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan®MA)

· 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul® A Plus)

• indanylidene compounds in accordance with DE 100 55 940 (= WO 02/38537).

[0030] Advantageous primary and also secondary sun protection factors are mentioned in WO 2005 123101 Al. Advantageously, these preparations contain at least one UVA filter and/or at least one UVB filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. The preparations may be present here in various forms such as are conventionally used for sun protection preparations. Thus, they may be in form of a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W/O) or of the oil-in-water type (O/W) or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in- water type (W/O/W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or else an aerosol.

[0031 ] In a further preferred embodiment a formulation according to the invention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protection factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater than or equal to 5). Such formulations according to the invention are particularly suitable for protecting the skin and hair.

SECONDARY SUN PROTECTION FACTORS

[0032] Besides the groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, alpha-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sul- fones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very small compatible dosages, also (metal) chelators (for example alpha-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactofer- rine), alpha-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, titanium dioxide (for example dispersions in ethanol), zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

[0033] Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection pigments are finely dispersed metal oxides and metal salts which are also mentioned in WO 2005 123101 Al. The total quantity of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micro-pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation according to the present invention is advantageously from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0034] Also preferred are particulate UV filters or inorganic pigments, which can optionally be hydrophobed, can be used, such as the oxides of titanium (Ti0 ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe ₂ 03), zirconium (Zr0 ₂ ), silicon (Si0 ₂ ), manganese (e.g. M nO), aluminium (AI ₂ Os), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ 03) and/or mixtures thereof.

ACTIVES MODULATING SKIN AND/OR HAIR PIGMENTATION

[0035] Preferred active ingredients for skin and/or hair lightening are selected from the group consisting of: kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), kojic acid derivatives, preferably kojic acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, preferably 4-alkylresorcinols and 4-(l-phenylethyl)l,3- dihydroxybenzene (phenylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexylcarbamates (preferably one or more cyclohexyl carbamates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), sulfur- containing molecules, preferably glutathione or cysteine, alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), salts and esters thereof, N-acetyl tyrosine and derivatives, undecenoyl phenylalanine, gluconic acid, chromone derivatives, preferably aloesin, flavo- noids, 1-aminoethyl phosphinic acid, thiourea derivatives, ellagic acid, nicotinamide (niacinamide), zinc salts, preferably zinc chloride or zinc gluconate, thujaplicin and derivatives, triterpenes, preferably maslinic acid, sterols, preferably ergosterol, benzofuranones, preferably senkyunolide, vinyl guiacol, ethyl guiacol, dionic acids, preferably octodecene dionic acid and/or azelaic acid, inhibitors of nitrogen oxide synthesis, preferably L-nitroarginine and derivatives thereof, 2,7-dinitroindazole or thiocitrulline, metal chelators (preferably alpha- hydroxy fatty acids, phytic acid, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), retinoids, soy milk and extract, serine protease inhibitors or lipoic acid or other synthetic or natural active ingredients for skin and hair lightening, the latter preferably used in the form of an extract from plants, preferably bearberry extract, rice extract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, mulberry extract, bengkoang extract, nutgrass extract, liquorice root extract or constituents concentrated or isolated therefrom, preferably glabridin or lico- chalcone A, artocarpus extract, extract of rumex and ramulus species, extracts of pine species (pinus), extracts of vitis species or stilbene derivatives isolated or concentrated there- from, saxifrage extract, scutelleria extract, grape extract and/or microalgae extract, in particular Tetraselmis suecica Extract .

[0036] Preferred skin lighteners as component (b) are kojic acid and phenylethyl resorcinol as tyrosinase inhibitors, beta- and alpha-arbutin, hydroquinone, nicotinamide, dioic acid, Mg ascorbyl phosphate and vitamin C and its derivatives, mulberry extract, Bengkoang extract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, nutgrass extract, licorice extract (containing glycyrrhizin), alpha-hydroxy-acids, 4-alkylresorcinols, 4-hydroxya nisole. These skin lighteners are preferred due to their very good activity, in particular in combination with sclareolide according to the present invention. In addition, said preferred skin lighteners are readily available.

[0037] Advantageous skin and hair tanning active ingredients in this respect are substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosinase such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L- dihydroxyphenylalanine, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophyl-line and derivatives thereof, proopiomelanocortin peptides such as ACTH, alpha-MSH, peptide analogues thereof and other substances which bind to the melanocortin receptor, peptides such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Lys-lle- Gly-Arg-Lys or Leu-lle-Gly-Lys, purines, pyrimidines, folic acid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1,3,4-oxadiazole- 2-thiols such as 5-pyrazin-2-yl-l,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiol, curcumin, zinc diglycinate (Zn(Gly)2), manganese(ll) bicarbonate complexes ("pseudocat-alases") as described for example in EP 0 584 178, tetrasubstituted cyclohexene deriva-tives as described for example in WO 2005/032501 , isoprenoids as described in WO 2005/102252 and in WO 2006/010661 , mel- anin derivatives such as Melasyn-100 and MelanZe, diacyl glycerols, aliphatic or cyclic diols, psoralens, prostaglandins and ana-logues thereof, activators of adenylate cyclase and compounds which activate the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes such as serine proteases or agonists of the PAR-2 receptor, extracts of plants and plant parts of the chrysanthemum species, san-guisorba species, walnut extracts, urucum extracts, rhubarb extracts, mi- croalgae extracts, in particular Isochrysis galbana, trehalose, erythru-lose and dihydroxyace- tone. Flavonoids which bring about skin and hair tinting or brown-ing (e.g. quercetin, rham- netin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin) can also be used.

[0038] The amount of the aforementioned examples of additional active ingredients for the modulation of skin and hair pigmentation (one or more compounds) in the products according to the invention is then preferably 0.00001 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.0001 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

ANTI-AGEING ACTIVES

[0039] In the context of the invention, anti-ageing or biogenic agents are, for example antioxidants, matrix-metalloproteinase inhibitors (M M PI), skin moisturizing agents, gly- cosaminglycan stimulkators, anti-inflammatory agents, TRPV1 antagonists and plant extracts.

[0040] Antioxidants. Suitable antioxidants encompass amino acids (preferably glycine, his- tidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (preferably urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, preferably D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (preferably anserine), carnitine, creatine, matrikine peptides (preferably lysyl-threonyl-threonyl-lysyl-serine) and palmitoylated pentapeptides, carotenoids, caro- tenes (preferably alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (preferably dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propyl thioura- cil and other thiols (preferably thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma- linoleyl, cholesteryl, glyceryl and oligoglyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof, dilauryl thi- odipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (preferably esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sul- foximine compounds (preferably buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthi- onine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very small tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to μιηοΙ/kg), also (metal) chelators (preferably alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin, alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, tannins, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (preferably gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and derivatives thereof, ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (preferably ascorbyl palmi- tate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherols and derivatives (preferably vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and co- niferyl benzoate of benzoic resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, flavonoids and glycosylated precursors thereof, in particular quercetin and derivatives thereof, preferably alpha- glucosyl rutin, rosmarinic acid, carnosol, carnosolic acid, resveratrol, caffeic acid and deriva- tives thereof, sinapic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, cur- cuminoids, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, retinoids, preferably retinyl palmitate, retinol or tretinoin, ursolic acid, levulinic acid, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (preferably ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ), selenium and derivatives thereof (preferably selenium methionine), superoxide dismutase, stilbenes and derivatives thereof (preferably stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these cited active ingredients which are suitable according to the invention or extracts or fractions of plants having an antioxidant effect, preferably green tea, rooibos, honeybush, grape, rosemary, sage, melissa, thyme, lavender, olive, oats, cocoa, ginkgo, ginseng, liquorice, honeysuckle, sophora, pueraria, pinus, citrus, Phyllanthus emblica or St. John's wort, grape seeds, wheat germ, Phyllanthus emblica, coenzymes, preferably coenzyme Q.10, plastoquinone and menaquinone. Preferred antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of vitamin A and derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives, tocopherol and derivatives, preferably tocopheryl acetate, and ubiquinone.

[0041 ] If vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant(s), it is advantageous to choose their concentrations from the range from about 0.001 to about 10 % b.w. based on the total weight of the formulation. If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or caro- tenes or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant(s), it is advantageous to choose their concentrations from the range from about 0.001 to aout 10 % b.w. based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0042] Matrix-Metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPI). Preferred compositions comprise matrix-metalloproteinase inhibitors, especially those inhibiting matrix-metalloproteinases enzymatically cleaving collagen, selected from the group consisting of: ursolic acid, retinyl palmitate, propyl gallate, precocenes, 6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-l(2H)-benzopyran, 3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-l(2H)-benzopyra n, benzamidine hydrochloride, the cysteine proteinase inhibitors N-ethylmalemide and epsilon-amino-n-caproic acid of the serinprotease inhibitors: phenylmethylsufonylfluoride, collhibin (company Pentapharm; INCI : hydrolysed rice protein), oenotherol (company Soliance; INCI : propylene glycol, aqua, Oenothera biennis root extract, ellagic acid and ellagitannins, for example from pomegranate), phosphoramidone hinokitiol, EDTA, galardin, EquiStat (company Collaborative Group; apple fruit extract, soya seed extract, ursolic acid, soya isoflavones and soya proteins), sage extracts, M DI (company Atrium; INCI : glycosaminoglycans), fermiskin (company Silab/Mawi; INCI : water and lentinus edodes extract), actimp 1.9.3 (company Expanscience/Rahn; INCI : hydrolysed lupine protein), lipobelle soyaglycone (company Mibelle; INCI : alcohol, polysorb- ate 80, lecithin and soy isoflavones), extracts from green and black tea and further plant extracts, which are listed in WO 02 069992 Al (see tables 1-12 there, incorporated herein by reference), proteins or glycoproteins from soya, hydrolysed proteins from rice, pea or lupine, plant extracts which inhibit M M Ps, preferably extracts from shitake mushrooms, extracts from the leaves of the Rosaceae family, sub-family Rosoideae, quite particularly extracts of blackberry leaf (preferably as described in WO 2005 123101 Al, incorporated herein by reference) as e.g. SymMatrix (company Symrise, INCI: Maltodextrin, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract). Preferred actives of are selected from the group consisting of retinyl palmitate, ursolic acid, extracts from the leaves of the Rosaceae family, sub-family Rosoideae, genistein and daidzein.

[0043] Skin-moisturizing agents. Preferred skin moisturizing agents are selected from the group consisting of alkane diols or alkane triols comprising 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably C3-Cio-alkane diols and C3-Cio-alkane triols. More preferably the skin moisturizing agents are selected from the group consisting of: glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-decanediol.

[0044] Glycosaminoglycan stimulators. Preferred compositions comprise substances stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid and derivatives or salts, Subliskin (Sederma, INCI : Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment Filtrate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin), Hyalufix (BASF, INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Alpinia galanga leaf extract, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), Stimulhyal (Soliance, INCI: Calcium ketogluconate), Syn-Glycan (DSM, INCI : Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylamino- butyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Glycerin, Magnesium chloride), Kalpariane (Biotech Marine), DC Upregulex (Distinctive Cosmetic Ingredients, INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Sericin), glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, retinoids, preferably retinol and vitamin A, Arctium lappa fruit extract, Eriobotrya japonica extract, Genkwanin, N-Methyl-L- serine, (-)-alpha-bisabolol or synthetic alpha-bisabolol such as e.g. Dragosantol and Drago- santol 100 from Symrise, oat glucan, Echinacea purpurea extract and soy protein hydroly- sate. Preferred actives are selected from the group consisting of hyaluronic acid and deriva- tives or salts, retinol and derivatives, (-)-alpha-bisabolol or synthetic alpha-bisabolol such as e.g. Dragosantol and Dragosantol 100 from Symrise, oat glucan, Echinacea purpurea extract, Sinorhizobium Meliloti Ferment Filtrate, Calcium ketogluconate, Alpinia galanga leaf extract and tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate.

[0045] TRPV1 antagonists. Suitable compounds which reduce the hypersensitivity of skin nerves based on their action as TRPV1 antagonists, encompass e.g. trans-4-tert-butyl cyclo- hexanol as described in WO 2009 087242 Al, or indirect modulators of TRPV1 by an activation of the μ-receptor, e.g. acetyl tetrapeptide-15, are preferred.

[0046] Desquamating agents. The compositions may also contain desquamating agents (component b5) in amounts of about 0.1 to about 30 % b.w. preferably about 0.5 to about 15 % b.w., particularly preferably about 1 to about 10 % b.w. based on the total weight of the preparation. The expression "desquamating agent" is understood to mean any compound capable of acting:

• either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid); a- hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; extract of Sophora japonica; resveratrol and some derivatives of jasmonic acid;

• or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of the cor- neodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). There may be mentioned agents chelating inorganic salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N,N',N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminosul- phonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2- ethane)sulphonic acid (HEPES); derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine); derivatives of alpha-amino acids of the glycine type (as described in EP- 0 852 949, and sodium methylglycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N- acetylglucosamine; chestnut extracts such as those marketed by the company SILAB under the name Recoverine ^® , prickly pear extracts such as those marketed under the name Exfolactive ^® by the company SILAB, or Phytosphingosine SLC ^® (phytosphingo- sine grafted with a salicylic acid) marketed by the company Degussa.

[0047] Desquamating agents suitable for the invention may be chosen in particular from the group comprising sulphonic acids, calcium chelators, a-hydroxy acids such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascor- byl glucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; nicotinamide; urea; (N-2- hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane)sulphonic acid (HEPES), β-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, retinoids such as retinol and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives, those described in the documents FR 2570377 Al, EP 0199636 Al, EP 0325540 Al, EP 0402072 Al, chestnut or prickly pear extracts, in particular marketed by SILAB; reducing compounds such as cysteine or cysteine precursors.

[0048] Desquamating agents which can be used are also nicotinic acid and its esters and nicotinamide, also called vitamin B3 or vitamin PP, and ascorbic acid and its precursors, as described in particular in application EP 1529522 Al.

[0049] Anti-cellulite agents. Anti-cellulite agents and lipolytic agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of those described in WO 2007/077541, and beta-adrenergic receptor agonists such as synephrine and its derivatives, and cyclohexyl carbamates described in WO 2010/097479. Agents enhancing or boosting the activity of anti-cellulite agents, in particular agents which stimulate and/or depolarise C nerve fibres, are preferably selected from the group consisting of capsaicin and derivatives thereof, vanillyl-nonylamid and derivatives thereof, L-carnitine, coenzym A, isoflavonoides, soy extracts, ananas extract and conjugated linoleic acid.

[0050] Fat enhancing agents. Formulations and products according to the present invention may also comprise one or more fat enhancing and/or adipogenic agents as well as agents enhancing or boosting the activity of fat enhancing agents. A fat enhancing agent is for example hydroxymethoxyphenyl propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran (trade name: Sym3D ^® ).

PHYSIOLOGICAL COOLING AGENTS

[0051 ] The compositions may also contain one or more substances with a physiological cooling effect (cooling agents), which are preferably selected here from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives (for example L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomen- thol, neoisomenthol, neomenthol) menthylethers (for example (l-menthoxy)-l,2-propandiol, (l-menthoxy)-2-methyl-l,2-propandiol, l-menthyl-methylether), menthone glyceryl acetal, menthone glyceryl ketal or mixtures of both, menthylesters (for example menthylformiate, menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthyhydroxyisobutyrat, menthyllactates, L- menthyl-L-lactate, L-menthyl-D-lactate, menthyl-(2-methoxy)acetate, menthyl-(2- methoxyethoxy)acetate, menthylpyroglutamate), menthylcarbonates (for example menthylpropyleneglycolcarbonate, menthylethyleneglycolcarbonate, menthylglycerolcar- bonate or mixtures thereof), the semi-esters of menthols with a dicarboxylic acid or derivatives thereof (for example mono-menthylsuccinate, mono-menthylglutarate, mono- menthylmalonate, O-menthyl succinic acid ester-N,N-(dimethyl)amide, O-menthyl succinic acid ester amide), menthanecarboxylic acid amides (in this case preferably menthanecar- boxylic acid-N-ethylamide [WS3] or N ^a -(menthanecarbonyl)glycinethylester [WS5], as de- scribed in US 4,150,052, menthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4-cyanophenyl)amide or menthanecarboxylic acid-N-(4-cyanomethylphenyl)amide as described in WO 2005 049553 Al, menthanecarboxylic acid-N-(alkoxyalkyl)amides), menthone and menthone derivatives (for example L-menthone glycerol ketal), 2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid derivatives (for example 2,3-dimethyl-2-(2-propyl)-butyric acid-N-methylamide [WS23]), isopulegol or its esters (l-(-)-isopulegol, l-(-)-isopulegolacetate), menthane derivatives (for example p- menthane-3,8-diol), cubebol or synthetic or natural mixtures, containing cubebol, pyrroli- done derivatives of cycloalkyldione derivatives (for example 3-methyl-2(l-pyrrolidinyl)-2- cyclopentene-l-one) or tetrahydropyrimidine-2-one (for example iciline or related compounds, as described in WO 2004/026840), further carboxamides (for example N-(2-(pyridin- 2-yl)ethyl)-3-p-menthanecarboxamide or related compounds), (lR,2S,5R)-N-(4- Methoxyphenyl)-5-methyl-2-(l-isopropyl)cyclohexane-carboxami de [WS12], oxamates (preferably those described in EP 2033688 A2) and [(l.R,2S,5R)-2-isopropyl-5-methyl- cyclohexyi] 2-(ethylamino)-2-oxo-acetate (X Cool).

ANTI-MICROBIAL AGENTS

[0052] Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, a ll substances effective against Gram-positive bacteria, such as, for example, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4- dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3- methyl-4-(l-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-l,2- propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GM L), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), sa licylic acid N-alkylamides, such as, for example, n-octylsalicylamide or n- decylsalicylamide.

ENZYME INHIBITORS

[0053] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. These are prefera- bly trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity, thereby reducing the formation of odour. Other substances which are suitable esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarbox- ylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate, and zinc glycinate. ODOUR ABSORBERS AND ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE AGENTS

[0054] Suitable odour absorbers are substances which are a ble to absorb and largely retain odour-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components, thus also reducing their rate of diffusion. It is important that perfumes must remain unimpaired in this process. Odour absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They comprise, for example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or specific, largely odour- neutral fragrances which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixatives", such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. The odour masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils, which, in addition to their function as odour masking agents, give the deodorants their respective fragrance note. Perfume oils which may be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, and resins and balsams. Also suitable are animal products, such as, for example, civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol, and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance com- pounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexylpropio- nate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linaool, phe- nylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include mainly the terpenes and balsams. Preference is, however, given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce a pleasing fragrance note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden flower oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is given to using bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a- hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cycla men aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, β- damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cy- clohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur, iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phe- nylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotyl and floramat alone or in mixtures.

[0055] Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are primarily salts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc. Such suitable antihydrotic active ingredients are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesqui- chlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2- propylene glycol, aluminium hydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, a luminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with amino acids, such as glycine.

FILM FORMERS AND ANTI-DANDRUFF AGENTS

[0056] Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quater- nized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.

[0057] Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin (l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4- trimethylpentyl)-2-(lH)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypivaf (Climbazole), Keto- conazol ^® (4-acetyl-l-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl)-l,3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl}-piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethano- lamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon ⁸ UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulfate. CARRIERS AND HYDROTROPES

[0058] Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar (including highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of said liquid carrier materials with water. Optionally, these preparations according to the invention may be produced using preservatives or solubilizers. Other preferred liquid carrier substances, which may be a component of a preparation according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil and mineral oil.

[0059] Preferred solid carrier materials, which may be a component of a preparation ac- cording to the invention are hydrocolloids, such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 5 to 25, preferably of 10 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide, glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya, carrageenan, pullulan, cur- dlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour, carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inulin and mixtures of two or more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 15 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/or glucose.

[0060] In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, may be used to improve flow behaviour. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• glycerol;

• alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 Dalton;

· technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as for example technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

· lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;

• sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol,

• sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose;

• amino sugars, for example glucamine;

· dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-l,3-diol. PRESERVATIVES

[0061 ] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung ("Cosmetics Directive").

PERFUME OILS AND FRAGRANCES

[0062] Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert. butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for exam- pie, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hy- droxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones, ^■ - isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, euge- nol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable perfume. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably used either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hex- ylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat. DYES

[0063] Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" of the Farbstoff- kommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pag- es 81 to 106. Examples include cochineal red A (C.I . 16255), patent blue V (C.I. 42051), in- digotin (C.I . 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I . 75810), quinoline yellow (C.I . 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I . 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I . 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. Advantageous coloured pigments are for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe ₂ 03 Fe30 ₄ , FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide. Advanta- geous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.

PREPARATIONS

[0064] Preferred compositions according to the present inventions are selected from the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansing of the skin and/or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as a leave-on product (meaning that the one or more compounds of formula (I) stay on the skin and/or hair for a longer period of time, compared to rinse-off products, so that the moisturizing and/or anti-ageing and/or wound healing promoting action thereof is more pronounced).

[0065] The formulations according to the invention are preferably in the form of an emulsion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O/W (oil-in-water), W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water), 0/W/O (oil- in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a solution, e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particular C6- C32 fatty acid C2-C30 esters) or silicone oil, dispersion, suspension, creme, lotion or milk, de- pending on the production method and ingredients, a gel (including hydrogel, hydrodisper- sion gel, oleogel), spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant) or a foam or an impregnating solution for cosmetic wipes, a detergent, e.g. soap, synthetic detergent, liquid washing, shower and bath preparation, bath product (capsule, oil, tablet, salt, bath salt, soap, etc.), effervescent preparation, a skin care product such as e.g. an emulsion (as described above), ointment, paste, gel (as described above), oil, balsam, serum, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), a mask, a pencil, stick, roll-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming or post-foaming), a deodorant and/or antiperspirant, mouthwash and mouth rinse, a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), an insect repellent, a sunscreen, aftersun preparation, a shaving product, aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a hair care product such as e.g. shampoo (including 2-in-l shampoo, anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps, concentrated shampoo), conditioner, hair tonic, hair water, hair rinse, styling creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion, hair spray, styling aid (e.g. gel or wax), hair smoothing agent (detangling agent, relaxer), hair dye such as e.g. temporary direct-dyeing hair dye, semi-permanent hair dye, permanent hair dye, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye care product, make-up, make-up remover or baby product.

[0066] The formulations according to the invention are particularly preferably in the form of an emulsion, in particular in the form of a W/O, O/W, W/O/W, 0/W/O emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a gel (including hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a solution e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particular C6-C32 fatty acid C2-C30 esters)) or silicone oil, or a spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant).

[0067] Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in quantities of 5 to 99 % b.w., preferably 10 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the formulation. The amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agents and additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily be determined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error, depending on the nature of the particular product.

[0068] The preparations can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99 % b.w., preferably 5 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the preparation.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

[0069] Another object of the present invention refers to a non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of the extract or the compositions as described infra for regulating the pilosebaceous unit of a human.

[0070] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of the extract or the composition as described infra for

(i) stimulating hair growth,

(ii) modulating hair cycle,

(iii) preventing hair loss and/or

(iv) down-regulating sebogenesis by sebaceous glands

of a human.

[0071 ] Also claimed is a non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of the extract or the compositions as described infra for treating or preventing greasy hair or oily skin of a human.

[0072] Another object of the present invention refers to a method for regulating the pilosebaceous unit in a human in need of encompassing the steps:

(i) providing the extract of Claim 1 and

(ii) applying said extract either topically to human skin or scalp or

(iii) applying said extract by oral administration. [0073] Further on the present invention refers to a method for

(a) stimulating hair growth,

(b) modulating hair cycle,

(c) preventing hair loss and/or

(d) down-regulating sebogenesis by sebaceous glands

of a human in need of, encompassing the steps:

(i) providing the extract of Claim 1 and

(ii) applying said extract either topically to human skin or scalp or

(iii) applying said extract by oral administration.

[0074] Finally, the invention also relates to a method for treating or preventing greasy hair or oily skin of a human encompassing the steps:

(i) providing the extract of Claim 1 and

(ii) applying said extract either topically to human skin or scalp or

(iii) applying said extract by oral administration.

[0075] Preferably, all these uses and methods are non-therapeutic and serve for cosmetic uses only.

[0076] For the sake of good order it should be noted that all preferred embodiments described and defined infra, for example with regard to preferred combinations, ranges or additives, are also valid with regard to the proposed uses and methods and no repetition is necessary.

EXAMPLES

PREPARATION OF THE EXTRACT

[0077] The extract of Coprinus comatus has been obtained by the following protocol:

• Each gram of dry biomass of Coprinus comatus was grinded in a mortar and extracted by treatment with 25 ml of solvent, stirring the suspension at room temperature for 16 hours in the dark;

• the residual cell material was separated from the extract by centrifugation at 2000G for 15 minutes;

• the residual biomass was washed by suspending it in 12,5 ml of solvent;

• the cell material was separated from the washing solvent by centrifugation at 2000G for 15 minutes;

• the residual biomass was washed again by suspending it in 12,5 ml of solvent;

· the cell material was separated from the washing solvent by centrifugation at 2000G for 15 minutes;

• the firstly collected extract and the washing solvent volumes were mixed.

[0078] According to the present invention, cell material of the Coprinus comatus biomass was extracted with a liquid extractant selected from the group consisting of ethanol and wa- ter. The extractant can also comprise a mixture of the two aforementioned solvents. Quantity and quality of compounds which are present in the extracts may vary with respect to both solvent properties and preparation protocol.

[0079] Coprinus comatus (Class: Agaricomycetes; Order: Agaricales) is a com mon mushroom which occurs widely in Europe, UK and North America. It has been introduced to Australia, New Zealand and Iceland.

[0080] The Coprinus comatus biomass used in these experiments has been produced by a German company and bought from an Italian company.

ACTIVITY OF THE EXTRACTS ON HAIR FOLLICLE GROWTH

EXAMPLES 1 TO 4

Activity on the growth of hair follicles of ethanolic (EtOH) and aqueous (water) extracts ob- tained from Coprinus comatus

[0081 ] The following experiment was conducted to demonstrate the activity on hair follicle growth of the ethanolic extract (EtOH) and aqueous extract (water) obtained from Coprinus comatus. Hair follicles were micro-dissected from a single donor's scalp sample and plated into sterile 48-well plates at a density of 1 hair follicle/well, with 200 μΙ/well of a modified Williams' Medium E.

[0082] After 18 h of cultivation, the selection of the hair follicles suitable to be maintained in culture occurred. Only those follicles showing a good vital stage and a growth of not less than 0.2 mm were selected for the experimental plan. The experimental treatment of the follicles started after the follicle selection and lasted for eight days. All experimental groups and the control were prepared comprising 12-18 follicles. The hair follicles showing evident signs of suffering during the culture for reasons not depending on the experimental treatment were excluded from the final analysis.

[0083] The growth performances observed in the treated hair follicles were compared to a control group cultured in the same culture medium without extract supplement. At day 9 of culture (day 8 of treatment) the growth of the hair follicles was studied by image analysis.

[0084] The activity of the treatment is demonstrated by the increase of hair follicles growth expressed as a variation of the average elongation of the experimental groups in comparison to the control group (Table 1) and is expressed as % ratio of the control group performance.

Table 1

Growth of hair follicles at day 9 of culture (8 days of treatm

Example Sample Amount Average Std. error Total no. of HFs

0 Control 0 100.0 3.1 15

1 EtOH O. l jig/ml 107.2 4.8 12

2 EtOH 1 μg/m\ 123.7 5.3 11

3 Water 0.2 Mg/ml 109.1 4.0 12

4 Water 2 μ§/ιηΙ 104.4 6.2 12

[0085] The treatment performed with 1 μg/ml of EtOH extract increased the follicle elonga- tion by 23.7%, while 0.2 μg/ml of water extract stimulated the hair growth by 9.1%, in com- parison to the control group. These results show that the addition of these extracts leads to an increase in growth of the hair follicles.

[0086] The increase of hair growth, in culture conditions, can be achieved by improving the general health of the organ and/or by delaying the catagen, which physiologically occurs when the follicle is explanted from the scalp. Both these effects are strongly desirable and make the extracts very interesting for cosmetic and therapeutic applications, in particular as an ingredient for preparations aimed at combatting hair loss.

EXAMPLES 5 TO 12

Activity on the growth of hair follicles of ethanolic (EtOH) and aqueous (water) extracts obtained from Coprinus comatus

[0087] The experimental procedure reported above was also adopted for testing the same extracts of Coprinus comatus on hair follicles taken from another donor. The average elongation of the experimental groups in comparison to the control group is reported in Table 2 and is expressed as % ratio of the control group performance.

Table 2

Growth of hair follicles at day 9 of culture (8 days of treatm

Example Sample Amount Average Std. error Total no. of HFs

0 Control 0 100.0 4.0 16

5 EtOH 0.01 μ§/ιτιΙ 111.6 5.3 12

6 EtOH O.l jig/ml 122.7 6.9 9

7 EtOH 1 μg/m\ 115.6 5.7 11

8 EtOH 10 jig/ml 104.0 6.1 9

9 Water 0.01 μ§/ιτιΙ 110.2 4.4 12

10 Water O.l jig/ml 119.7 5.5 12

11 Water 1 μg/m\ 113.2 5.9 12

12 Water 10 jig/ml 98.8 4.6 11

[0088] The results confirmed the stimulant activity exerted by the extracts. The EtOH extract increased the follicle elongation up to 22.7%, while the water extract stimulated the hair growth up to 19.7%, in comparison to the control group. These results show that the addition of these extracts leads to an increase in growth of the hair follicles and can promote their metabolic activities typically expressed in anagen phase. EXAMPLES 13 TO 15

Activity on the growth of hair follicles of ethanolic (EtOH) and aqueous (water) extracts obtained from Coprinus comatus

[0089] The experimental procedure reported above was also adopted for testing the same extracts of Coprinus comatus on hair follicles taken from a third donor. The average elongation of the experimental groups in comparison to the control group is reported in Table 3 and is expressed as % ratio of the control group performance.

Table 3

Growth of hair follicles at day 9 of culture (8 days of treatment)

Example Sample Amount Average Std. error Total no. of HFs

0 Control 0 100.0 6.3 14

13 EtOH 0.01 μ§/ιτιΙ 114.8 5.6 10

14 EtOH 0.1 ug/ml 102.1 4.6 11

15 Water 0.1 ug/ml 114.1 4.4 10

[0090] The results confirmed the stimulant activity exerted by the extracts in comparison to the control group. Both the ethanolic and aqueous extracts increased the hair growth performance of about 14-15%, at the concentrations of 0.01 and 0.1 μg/ml, respectively.

EXAMPLES 16 TO 17

Activity on the growth of hair follicles of aqueous (water) extract obtained from

Coprinus comatus

[0091 ] The experimental procedure reported above was adopted for testing the water extract of Coprinus comatus on hair follicles taken from another donor. The average elongation of the experimental groups in comparison to the control group is reported in Table 4 and expressed as % ratio of the control group performance.

Table 4

Growth of hair follicles at day 9 of culture (8 days of treatm

Example Sample Amount Average Std. error Total no. of HFs

0 Control 0 100.0 3.7 17

16 Water 0.1 μ /ηιΙ 118.2 5.3 12

17 Water 1 μg/m\ 120.1 5.8 11 [0092] The water extract of Coprinus produced a relevant stimulation of the hair growth at both the concentrations of treatment tested.

EXAMPLES 18 TO 21

Activity of ethanolic (EtOH) and aqueous (water) extracts obtained from Coprinus comatus

on the hair cycle staging of cultivated human follicles

[0093] The examples previously reported show that the C. comatus extracts allow to increase the hair follicle growth in culture. These results are due to a prolonged persistence of the growing phase, i.e. anagen, throughout the culture time. I ndeed, as each skilled technician knows, in culture conditions the hair follicles switch from anagen to catagen in a few days, whereas their growth accordingly slows and finally stops. Therefore, it can be assumed that an increase of growth of the treated follicles, in culture condition, is due to a prolonged stay in anagen phase.

[0094] In order further to prove this conclusion, the cycle stage of cultured hair follicles treated with C. comatus extracts was evaluated at the day 5 of culture (day 4 of treatment). Day 5 is the pivotal time for the catagen onset among the cultured follicles. The culture method was the same adopted for the previous examples, but at day 5 the hair follicles were subjected to histological analysis in order to verify the morphological state of the dermal papilla. The cycle stage of each hair follicle was classified on the basis of the dermal papilla morphology. The frequency of each cycle stage was evaluated group by group and expressed as intra-group percentage. All the experimental groups comprised 12 follicles at the beginning of the culture, but some follicles were not analyzed as they appeared dystrophic at day 5 of culture. The results are shown in Table 5. Hair Cycle Staging expressed as % frequency of each stage within the group. Table 5

Hair follicle staging at day 5 of culture (4 days of treatment) obtained by histological analysis of the dermal papilla morphology

[0095] The results indicate that the experimental extracts have significantly delayed the o set of the catagen phase among the hair follicles. I ndeed, the treated groups had a high frequency of hair follicles in anagen than the control group.

ACTIVITY OF THE EXTRACTS ON SEBACEOUS GLANDS

Description of the experimental model based on ex-vivo culture of human sebaceous glands (hSGs) and subsequent quantification of their sebum content

[0096] All the reported examples are intended to show the modulation of sebum production exerted by the experimental preparations, evaluated on human hSGs microdissected and cultivated up to day 6. At the end of the culture time, the sebum was extracted and quantified from each experimental group of hSGs and then normalized by the proteins extracted from the residual hSG material (mg lipids/mg proteins). As a result, the biological activity of the tested compounds is inferred by comparing the lipids/proteins ratio of the treated glands with that of the control group.

Organ culture technique

[0097] Using micro-scissors and tweezers, hSGs were isolated from the pilosebaceous units of a scalp skin sample. They were seeded in 24-well plates at the density of 8 hSGs/well and then cultivated in 500 μΙ/well of Williams' medium E, appropriately modified, hereinafter referred to as standard medium. After 24 hours of culture the viability of the glands was assessed via resazurin assay and then, having attested their good viability, the culture medium was substituted with the same medium supplemented with experimental extracts, whereas the control group received again the standard medium. The culture medium was renewed every other day. At day six of the organ culture, after having preventively verified the good viability of the hSGs via resazurine assay, each group of hGSs was collected and analyzed for quantifying the sebum content.

Analysis of the sebum content

[0098] In order to make comparable the estimated productivity of the glands, which are variable in biomass, their total sebum content was estimated and divided by the proteins extracted from the gland tissue, obtaining the ratio between the produced sebum and the tissue proteins (i.e. mg of lipids/mg of proteins). Methods are described in detail in WO2016020339 A8.

[0099] The amounts of normalized lipids obtained from the treated groups, i.e. the sebum produced by each group of hSGs, were expressed in percentages with respect to the value obtained from the control group, in order to point out the regulatory effect performed by the experimental treatment. EXAMPLES 22 to 23

Activity of aqueous (water) extract of Coprinus comatus on human sebaceous glands (hSGs)

[00100] hSGs were dissected and cultivated as previously described. Two experimental groups of hSGs were cultivated in culture media supplemented with 1 and 10 μg/ml of water extract obtained from Coprinus comatus, respectively. The control group was cultured in standard medium. As positive control, a 5 μΜ Capsaicin treatment was included in the experimental design. Capsaicin is an active component of chili peppers suitable to inhibit seb- ogenesis [Toth et al., J. Invest. Derm. (2009), 129: 329-339]. The results obtained from the experiment are reported in Table 6. Responses are expressed as % ratio of the control group performance. The capsaicin treatment was included as positive control.

Table 6

Sebum content in hSGs following treatment with water extract Coprinus comatus

Example Sample Amount Average Std. error

0 Control 0 100.0 2.8

0 capsaicin 5 μΜ 73.5 1.8

22 Water 1.0 Mg/ml 92.1 1.5

23 Water 10.0 μ§/ιτιΙ 70.4 2.4

[00101] The positive control treatment reduced the sebum content of the hSGs by 26.5% in comparison with the control group. However, surprisingly, also the Coprinus extract produced an intense inhibition of the sebogenesis, reaching -29.6% in comparison with the control group. These data show that the experimental extract has a biological activity comparable or higher than capsaicin.

EXAMPLES 24 to 26

Activity of ethanolic (EtOH) extract of Coprinus comatus on human sebaceous glands (hSGs)

[00102] hSGs were dissected and cultivated as previously described and treated with EtOH extract of C. comatus. The control group was cultured in standard medium and the positive control was treated with 5 μΜ Capsaicin. The results obtained from the experiment are reported in Table 7. Responses are expressed as % ratio of the control group performance. The capsaicin treatment was included as positive control. Table 7

Sebum content in hSGs following treatment with ethanol extract of Coprinus comatus

Example Sample Amount Average Std. error

0 Control 0 100.0 1.2

0 capsaicin 5 μΜ 88.3 2.2

24 EtOH 0.1 μ /ηιΙ 72.7 2.2

25 EtOH 1.0 μ /ηιΙ 61.3 1.0

26 EtOH 10.0 μ§/ιτιΙ 46.2 0.8 [00103] The experimental results show that the EtOH extract produced a down-regulation of sebogenesis much more intense than capsaicin, increasing with the dosage of treatment.

CONCLUSIVE REMARKS

[00104] The reported examples attest that the fungus Coprinus comatus is a suitable source of natural extracts for modulating the hair growth and hair cycling and/or regulating the sebum production. The activity on the hair follicle indicates that these extracts can be exploited for improving the hair wellness, prolonging the anagen phase and delaying the hair loss.

[00105] Besides, the biological activity as sebum regulators was shown to be comparable to or higher than that of capsaicin, a well-known sebum-inhibitor. The described results sup- port the proposed uses of the extracts to treat skin, hair and genitals, in order to prevent and/or treat the excessive secretion of sebum and the related aesthetic problems or skin disorders (greasy hair and skin, dandruff, acne, itch, discomfort of the vulvar region etc.).

[00106] A special comment is required in order to interpret correctly the effective concentrations exemplified for the C. comatus extracts. The optimal concentration of treatment can vary a little with the sensitivity of each particular donor from which the organs have been taken. This is perfectly normal and consistent with the cases observed in vivo. More critical is to estimate the order of magnitude of the treatment concentrations required for obtaining in vivo the same responses observed in the reported examples. These latter are based on experimental models consisting of ex-vivo cultivated organs, maintained at constant concen- trations of treatment throughout the culture time. This experimental condition is not obtainable in vivo, since both topical and oral administration produce fluctuating concentrations, depending on the frequency of administration and product formulation. It can therefore be assumed that any effective concentration obtained from ex-vivo experiments needs to be opportunely increased in the final product formulations. This is especially true for topi- cal preparations, in which only a limited part of the active ingredients reaches the target organ. It is assumed, as a very general indication, that a topical preparation should be formu- lated with 10 to 2000 folds the effective concentration detected by means of the experimental model adopted here. The magnitude of the multiplication factor required to obtain an effective formulation mainly depends on the effectiveness of the cosmetic vehicle and the frequency of application suggested. On the basis of these comments and taking into ac- count the tested concentrations, it is assumabie that the minimal effective topical dosage of fungal extract can vary between 0.0001 wt. -percent and 2 wt. -percent, preferably between 0.001 wt. -percent and 1 wt. -percent, more preferably between 0.01 wt. -percent and 0.1 wt.- percent and most preferably between 0.02 wt. -percent and 0.5 wt. -percent.