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Title:
FOAMING AQUEOUS GEL COMPRISING A MODIFIED STARCH AND A NON-STARCHY POLYSACCHARIDE
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2019/185915
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A subject of the present invention is a foaming composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one foaming surfactant, at least one crosslinked C1-C4carboxyalkyl starch and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide. Another subject of the present invention isa cosmetic process for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials using this composition. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous, smooth and soft, translucent to opaque, non-runny, foaming gel which has a good level of viscosity and good cosmetic qualities, mainly foam qualities (initiation, quality, amount). The composition also results in good sensoriality, with a soft skin finish. Furthermore, the appearance of the composition and the flow thereof are improved: it keeps its initial form on leaving the conditioner without a rigid appearance of "jelly" type, with a continuous and homogeneous flow. Moreover, the composition is stable over time.

Inventors:
FAUGUE VIRGINIE (FR)
PAGE VALÉRIE (FR)
GUILBAUD SOPHIE (FR)
Application Number:
PCT/EP2019/058088
Publication Date:
October 03, 2019
Filing Date:
March 29, 2019
Export Citation:
Click for automatic bibliography generation   Help
Assignee:
OREAL (FR)
International Classes:
A61K8/04; A61K8/73; A61Q1/14; A61Q19/10
Foreign References:
EP1776983A12007-04-25
EP1588696A12005-10-26
FR2892625A12007-05-04
US3301848A1967-01-31
US3589578A1971-06-29
US4031307A1977-06-21
Other References:
COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES MAGAZINE, vol. 120, no. 9, 2005, pages 10
"Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", vol. 3, 1982, pages: 896 - 900
E.A. MCGREGOR; C.T. GREENWOOD: "Polymers in Nature", 1980, JOHN WILEY & SONS, pages: 240 - 328
ROBERT L. DAVIDSON: "Handbook of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins", 1980, MCGRAW HILL BOOK COMPANY
"Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", ACADEMIC PRESS INC.
"Kirk-Othmer, ''Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", vol. 22, 1979, WILEY, pages: 333 - 432
"The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection", 1984, ICI AMERICAS INC.
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
PREVEL, Estelle (FR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1. Foaming composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one foaming surfactant, at least one crosslinked C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , in which the foaming surfactant(s) are chosen from non-ionic, amphoteric or anionic surfactants. 3. Composition according to Claim 2, in which the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkylpolyglycosides such as cocoyl glucoside.

4. Composition according to either one of Claims 2 and 3, in which the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from acylamino acids such as cocoyl glutamate.

5. Composition according to any one of Claims 2 to 4, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) are chosen from betaines such as cocoyl betaine.

6. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the foaming surfactant(s) are present in an active material (AM) content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, even more preferentially from 5% to 30% by weight and even better still from 7% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the Ci-C4 carboxyalkyl starch(es) have a degree of substitution of carboxyalkyl units ranging from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5.

8. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the Ci-C4 carboxyalkyl starch(es) are chosen from carboxymethyl starches formed from units of formula:

in which X, optionally covalently bonded to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine.

9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the Ci-C4 carboxyalkyl starch is a crosslinked sodium carboxymethyl starch.

10. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the amount of Ci-C4 carboxyalkyl starch is between 1 % and 8% by dry weight, preferably between 2% and 5% by dry weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 1. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the non-starchy polysaccharide(s) are chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 1 1 , in which the non-starchy polysaccharide(s) are chosen from xanthans, scleroglucans, gellan gums, carrageenans and celluloses, and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in which the non-starchy polysaccharide(s) are present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, which has a viscosity ranging from 500 centipoises to 8000 centipoises, preferably from 750 centipoises to 6500 centipoises, and even more preferentially from 900 centipoises to 3500 centipoises.

15. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, which has a pH of greater than or equal to 5.

16. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, free of sulfate surfactants.

17. Cosmetic process for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials, in which a cosmetic composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 16 is applied to said keratin materials.

Description:
Foaming aqueous gel comprising a modified starch and a non-starchy

polysaccharide

The subject of the present invention is a foaming cleansing composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one foaming surfactant, at least one crosslinked C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch, and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide, and also the use of said composition in particular in the cosmetics field, as a product for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, keratin fibres (eyelashes and hair) or the scalp, and also for treating greasy skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.

Cleansing of the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible since fatty residues, such as excess sebum, the residues of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products accumulate in the skin folds and can block the skin pores and lead to the appearance of spots.

One way of satisfactorily cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products. The foaming cleansing products currently commercially available are in the form of foaming bars, gels or creams. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of giving a creamy foam but may cause tautness due to their excessive detergent power, or foaming surfactants such as sulfate surfactants, in particular sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), or amphoteric surfactants, for instance cocoyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium cocoamphodiacetate, which are highly efficient in terms of foam and of detergent power.

Moreover, foaming products may be thickened by means of a salt, for example sodium chloride, for certain surfactants, or by adding a thickener of alkyl-PEG type such as PEG- 150 distearate or PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, or by adding a gelling agent of natural gum type, in particular xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum and/or carrageenan gum.

Thickening with salt is a known approach that is widely used for surfactant systems containing sulfates and amphoteric substances, since it makes it possible both to be cheap and also not to impair the foam qualities; however, in general, it cannot significantly thicken sulfate-free and/or amphoteric substance-free systems. On the other hand, increasing the viscosity of the medium with another thickener or gelling agent is a more versatile approach, but often has a negative impact on the foam qualities of the formula (the start of foaming and the amount of foam).

It is therefore advisable to have available foaming compositions which have good viscosity, while at the same time retaining good cosmetic and foaming properties.

Moreover, since the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products is becoming a considerable challenge in order to meet new customer expectations, in particular the expectation of eco-designed and/or natural products, it is necessary to provide cleansing and/or exfoliating compositions for the face and/or the body which are very effective, which should not have the abovementioned drawbacks when they are applied to the skin, and which are predominately formulated with natural ingredients and/or ingredients of natural origin.

The term "natural compound" is intended to mean a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

The term“compound of natural origin” is intended to mean a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above.

As non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those allowed by the regulatory bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for cosmetic, biological and ecological products, January 2003), or defined in handbooks recognized in the field, such as Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine, 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10. However, the use of natural gelling agents, such as polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum, for gelling foaming cleansing compositions often results in a runny texture and/or a slimy appearance of the compositions.

It has been discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of a non-starchy polysaccharide, such as a xanthan or scleroglucan gum, with a crosslinked C 1 -C 4 carboxyalkyl starch makes it possible to obtain foaming compositions which have good viscosity without observing the above drawbacks.

A subject of the present invention is thus a foaming composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising at least one foaming surfactant, at least one crosslinked Ci-C 4 carboxyalkyl starch and at least one non-starchy polysaccharide.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous, smooth and soft, translucent to opaque, non-runny, foaming gel which has a good level of viscosity and good cosmetic qualities, mainly foam qualities (initiation, quality, amount). The composition also results in good sensoriality, with a soft skin finish. Furthermore, the appearance of the composition and the flow thereof are improved: it keeps its initial form on leaving the conditioner without a rigid appearance of “jelly” type, with a continuous and homogeneous flow. Moreover, the composition is stable over time; in particular, it is macroscopically and microscopically stable at a temperature of between 4°C and 45°C for two months. The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to mean here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term“keratin material” is in particular intended to mean the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids).

In the text hereinbelow, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

Viscosity

The texture of the composition can be characterized by viscosity measurements.

Protocol for measuring the viscosity

The viscosity is generally measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer with spindles suitable for the viscosity, in particular with a spindle No. 3, it being possible for the measurement to be carried out after 30 seconds of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the speed of rotation of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 s 1 .

The composition in accordance with the invention may have a viscosity at ambient temperature (25°C) which varies within a broad range, for example a viscosity ranging from 0.01 to 500 poises.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention has a viscosity ranging from 500 centipoises to 8000 centipoises, preferably from 750 centipoises to 6500 centipoises, and even more preferentially from 900 centipoises to 3500 centipoises.

The composition according to the invention advantageously has a viscosity ranging from 500 to 3500 centipoises, preferably from 800 to 3000 centipoises, and even more preferentially from 800 to 2700 centipoises.

Crosslinked (C 1 -C 4 ) carboxyalkyl starches

The starch derivatives used in the present invention may originate from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruit.

Thus, the starch(es) may originate from a plant source chosen from corn, pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is preferably derived from potato. Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insoluble in cold water, of which the elemental particle size ranges from 15 to 100 microns.

In the context of the present invention, these starches are used in a form that has been crosslinked and in a form that has been chemically modified by functionalization with carboxyalkyl units.

The aim of the crosslinking is to form a network that is much more stable to heat and more resistant to heat and to acidity. The starch chains are linked to one another by bonding molecules: phosphated derivatives, chloroepoxide derivatives, acid dianhydrides and aldehyde derivatives.

The (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starches, also referred to hereinafter as "carboxyalkyl starches", are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, in particular by reaction of starch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline medium. The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly to carbon 1.

The degree of substitution with carboxyalkyl units of the C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the mean number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an ester or ether group per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.

The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and especially of salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as Na, K, Li, NH4, or salts of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.

The C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously, in the context of the present invention, carboxymethyl starches.

The carboxymethyl starches preferably comprise units having the following formula:

in which X, optionally covalently bonded to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine, for instance monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. Preferably, X denotes an Na+ cation. The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are partially or totally crosslinked carboxyalkyl starches.

In general, a crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch has, in contrast with a non-crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch, an increased, controllable viscosity of increased stability. The crosslinking thus makes it possible to reduce the syneresis phenomena and to increase the resistance of the gel to shear effects. It also makes it possible to increase the hydrophilicity of the material and also its disintegration rate.

The carboxyalkyl starches under consideration according to the invention are more particularly potato carboxyalkyl starches.

Thus, the carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starch, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch, sold especially under the name Primojel by DMV International or Glycolys ® and Glycolys LV ® by the company Roquette.

According to a particular mode, use will be made of the potato carboxymethyl starches sold especially under the name Glycolys ® by the company Roquette.

It should be noted that the C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch particles are present in the compositions according to the invention in a swollen form.

According to one preferred embodiment variant of the invention, these particles are used for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, in this swollen particulate state. To do so, these particles are advantageously used in the form of an aqueous formulation either prepared beforehand or already commercially available.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises from 1 % to 8% by dry weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by dry weight, of at least one crosslinked starch as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-starchy polysaccharides

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-starchy polysaccharides” is intended to mean polysaccharides other than starches and starch derivatives.

In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non-ionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. McGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, in the book by Robert L. Davidson entitled Handbook of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins published by McGraw Hill Book Company (1980) and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.

More precisely, these polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, from algae or from higher plants, and are detailed below.

Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms

Xanthan

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked b-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an oD-mannose, a b-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal b-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1 ). The content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na + , K + or Ca 2+ ions (Satia company, 1986). The neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1 % of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).

Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan ® and Keltrol ® by the company CP-Kelco.

Pullulan

Pullulan is a polysaccharide consisting of maltotriose units, known under the name a(1 ,4)- a(1 ,6)-glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected via an a(1 ,4) glycoside bond, whereas the consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other via an a(1 ,6) glycoside bond. Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.

Dextran and dextran sulfate

Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide not bearing any charged groups, which is biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing solely hydroxyl groups. It is possible to obtain dextran fractions of different molecular weights from native dextran by hydrolysis and purification. Dextran may in particular be in the form of dextran sulfate. Dextran is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.

Succinoglvcan

Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer of high molecular weight produced by bacterial fermentation, consisting of octasaccharide repeating units (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia. Scleroglucan

Scleroglucan is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide constituted of b-D-glucan units. The molecules consist of a linear main chain formed from D-glucose units linked via b(1 ,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D-glucose unit via a b(1 ,6) bond. A more complete description of scleroglucans and of their preparation may be found in US 3 301 848.

Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Muller, or under the name Actigum™ CS by the company Cargill.

Gellan gum

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of 4 saccharides (tetra-oside). D-Glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2:1 :1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

Polysaccharides isolated from algae

Galactans

The polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan chosen especially from agar or carrageenans. Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by a(1 ,3) and b(1 ,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the a-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of sulfate- ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which bear one sulfate-ester group, iota- carrageenans, which bear two sulfate-ester groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which bear three sulfate-ester groups.

Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides. Carrageenans are sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum ® , by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel ® , Carralact ® and Carrasol ® , by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta ® , Genugel ® and Genuvisco ® . Galactans of agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (Rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group of which the backbone is a b(1 ,3) D-galactopyranose and a(1 ,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season. Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40 000 and 300 000 g.mol 1 . It is obtained by manufacturing algal extraction liquors, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these liquors which comprise about 2% of agar-agar, so as to extract the latter. Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.

Furcellaran

Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.

Alginate-based compound

For the purposes of the invention, the term "alginate-based compound" is intended to mean alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives. Preferably, the alginate-based compound is water-soluble.

Alginic acid, a natural substance resulting from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by 1 ,4-glycosidic bonds: b-D-manuronic (M) acid and a-L-glucuronic (G) acid. Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, substituted cations of lower amine and of ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. These alginates are water-soluble in aqueous medium at a pH equal to 4, but dissociate into alginic acid at a pH below 4.

This (these) alginate-based compound(s) are capable of crosslinking in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent, by formation of ionic bonds between said alginate-based compound(s) and said crosslinking agent(s). The formation of multiple crosslinks between several molecules of said alginate-based compound(s) leads to the formation of a water- insoluble gel.

Use is preferably made of alginate-based compounds with a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 15 000 to 500 000 and better still from 20 000 to 250 000. According to a preferred embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or a salt thereof. Advantageously, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.

The alginate-based compound may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. The alginate-based compounds that are suitable for use in the invention may be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Kelcosol, Satialgine™, Cecalgum™ or Algogel™ by the company Cargill Products, under the name Protanal™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted ® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol ® and Manugel ® by the company ISP.

Polysaccharides of higher plants

This category of polysaccharides may be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (only one saccharide species) and heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of saccharides. a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

The polysaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.

Cellulose and derivatives

The polysaccharide according to the invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof, especially cellulose ethers or esters (e.g.: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

The invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer. According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based compound" is intended to mean any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGU) linked together via b(1 ,4) glycoside bonds. The repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer. The AGUs are in chair conformation and bear 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine together via intermolecular bonds of hydrogen bond type, thus giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (about 1500 molecules per fibre). The degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value may range from a few hundred to several tens of thousands.

Cellulose has the following chemical structure:

Non-reducing end Anhydroglucopyranose Reducing end

The hydroxyl groups of cellulose may react partially or totally with various chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having intrinsic properties. The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non- crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.

The quaternizing agent may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

- quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of:

- celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially C8-C22 alkyl groups, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and

- celluloses modified with groups ether of polyalkylene glycol and alkylphenol, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonylphenol) sold by the company Amerchol.

Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

The cellulose-based compounds of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

The celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel ® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company AkzoNobel, under the name Methocel™ (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel®

(hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon. Fructosans

The polysaccharide according to the invention may especially be a fructosan chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (especially dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins). Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with several saccharide residues other than fructose. Fructans may be linear or branched. Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or alternatively products of which the chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1 ,000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. Three groups of fructans are distinguished. The first group corresponds to products of which the fructose units are for the most part linked via b(2,1 ) bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins. The second group also corresponds to linearfructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via b(2,6) bonds. These products are levans. The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing b(2,6) and b(2,1 ) sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans. The preferred fructans in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke, preferably from chicory.

In particular, the polysaccharide, especially the inulin, has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1 ,000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.

The inulin used for this invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Beneo™ inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit ® by the company Sensus. b) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for instance cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.

Gum arabic

Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Galactomannans (guar, locust bean, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (guar phosphate, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.) Galactomannans are non-ionic polyosides extracted from the endosperm of leguminous seeds, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate. Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of b(1 ,4) linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing side branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose unit a(1 ,6) linked to the main chain. The various galactomannans differ, firstly, by the proportion of a-D- galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and secondly by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain. The mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is about 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum. Galactomannans have the following chemical structure:

m = 3: Locust bean gum

m = 1 : Guar gum

m = 2: Tara gum

Guar

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose/galactose ratio of the order of 2/1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain. The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be non-ionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, use may be made of chemically modified or unmodified non-ionic guar gums.

The unmodified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro ® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol ® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

The hydrolyzed non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Meyprodor ® by the company Danisco.

The modified non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name N-Hance ® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.

The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1 .5 meq./g, more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq./g. The charge density may be determined by the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

In general, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum" is intended to mean any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 c 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3 c 10 6 approximately.

The cationic galactomannan gums that may be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

Mention may very particularly be made, among these trialkylammonium groups, of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified, for example, with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups, are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307. Such products are moreover sold especially under the trade names Jaguar Excel, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan ® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N- Hance ® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. The anionic group is preferably a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt. The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferentially carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Locust bean

Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the locust bean tree ( Ceratonia siliqua). The unmodified locust bean gum that may be used in this invention is sold, for example, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin and under the name Grinsted ® LBG by the company Danisco. The chemically modified locust bean gums that may be used in this invention may be represented, for example, by the cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.

Tara gum

The tara gum that may be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.

Glucomannans (koniac gum)

Glucomannan is a polysaccharide of high molecular weight (500 000 < Mglucomannan < 2 000 000) composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with a branch every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood, but is also the main constituent of konjac gum. Konjac ( Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family.

The products that may be used according to the invention are sold, for example, under the names Propol ® and Rheolex ® by the company Shimizu.

LM and HM pectins, and derivatives

Pectins are linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4 with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-Rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, incorporated into the main chain in positions 1 ,2.

Uronic acid molecules bear carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the capacity for exchanging ions, when they are in COO form. Divalent ions (in particular calcium) have the capacity of forming ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

In the natural state, a certain proportion of the carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group. The natural degree of esterification of a pectin may range between 70% (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used. Using pectins with a high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyze the -COOCH 3 groups, so as to obtain weakly esterified pectins. Depending on the proportion of methylated or non-methylated monomers, the chain is thus more or less acidic. HM (high-methoxy) pectins are thus defined as having a degree of esterification of greater than 50%, and LM (low-methoxy) pectins are defined as having a degree of esterification of less than 50%.

In the case of amidated pectins, the -OCH 3 group is substituted with an -NH 2 group.

Pectins are especially sold by the company Cargill under the name Unipectine™, by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.

Other polysaccharides

Among the other polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (poly-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, b(1 ,4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D- glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitin, etc.) such as those sold by the company France-Chitine; glycosaminoglycans (GAG) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and preferably hyaluronic acid; xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives.

Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped under the name pentosans.

Xylans consist of a main chain of b(1 ,4) linked D-xylose units and on which are found three substituents (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, a-L-arabinofuranose units, side chains which may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

According to this variant, the polysaccharide is preferably hyaluronic acid, or a salt thereof such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-starchy polysaccharide(s) are present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Foaming surfactants

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one foaming surfactant. The foaming surfactants used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, anionic and cationic surfactants. According to a particular embodiment, they are chosen from non-ionic, amphoteric and anionic surfactants. Preferably, they are chosen from non-ionic surfactants and anionic surfactants.

Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer,“Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of surfactants, in particular pages 347-377 of said reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.

Foaming surfactants are detergents and differ from emulsifying surfactants by their HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term“HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in“The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).

In particular, the foaming surfactant(s) may be chosen from the following surfactants. a) Anionic surfactants

The anionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from soaps (fatty acid salts), carboxylates, for instance sulfosuccinates, acylamino acids, amido ether carboxylates, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, isethionates, alkyl methyl taurates and alkyl phosphates (monoalkyl or dialkyl phosphates), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or completely saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. These are alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal soaps or soaps of organic bases. Use may be made, as fatty acids, of saturated, linear or branched fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may be chosen in particular from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid and lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of basic agents that may be used include alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline-earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium hydroxide), ammonium hydroxide or else organic bases, such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.

The soaps may especially be fatty acid alkali metal salts, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide and preferably potassium hydroxide (KOH).

The amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized.

Carboxylates that may especially be mentioned include alkyl glycol carboxylic acids (or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetic acids)) and salts thereof, for instance sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight Shaa ® or Beaulight LCA-25N ® by the company Sanyo (CTFA name: sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form sold under the name Beaulight Shaa (Acid Form) ® by the company Sanyo.

Non-oxyalkylenated alkyl sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol sulfosuccinates (70/30 C12/C14) (disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate) such as the products sold under the name Rewopol® SB F 12 P by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Kohacool L-40 by the company Toho Chemical, or Mackanate LO-FF by the company Rhodia.

Oxyalkylenated sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol sulfosuccinates (70/30 C12/C14) (Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate) such as the products sold under the names Setacin 103 Special NP® by the company Zschimmer&Schwarz, Rewopol SB FA 30 U by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Goodway MES by the company Shanghai Goodway Chemical, Rewopol SB FA 30 PH by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, Alkonix SS K by the company Ultra-Oxiteno, Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate by the company Guangzhou Flower’s Song Fine Chemical, Kohacool L-300 by the company Toho Chemical, Empicol SDD OF by the company Fluntsman, the disodium salt of a hemisulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by the company Zschimmer&Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 OE) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated (5 OE) laurylamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 OE) disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by the company Witco, and the ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333® by the company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates may also be used, such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate- DC30® by the company MacIntyre.

Examples of acylamino acids that may be mentioned include sodium cocoylglutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft CS 22, sodium cocoylglycinate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS 12, sodium lauroyl glutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS1 1 and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Oramix L 30.

An example of an alkyl phosphate that may be mentioned is lauryl phosphate, sold by the company Kao under the name MAP 20.

The amount of anionic surfactants (as active material) preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from:

- acylamino acids, for example the sodium cocoyl glycinate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS 12, the sodium lauroyl glutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS1 1 and the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Oramix L 30, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof. b) Amphoteric surfactants

The amphoteric surfactants may be chosen from betaine derivatives. The term "amphoteric" includes here both amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants.

Examples of betaine derivatives that may be mentioned include cocoyl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-30® by the company Cognis; lauryl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by the company Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 OE) lauryl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Lauryl ether (10 OE) betaine® by the company Shin Nihon Rica; oxyethylenated (10 OE) stearyl betaine, for instance the product sold under the name Stearyl ether (10 OE) betaine® by the company Shin Nihon Rica; the cocamidopropyl betaine sold, for example, under the name Velvetex BK 35® by the company Cognis; the undecylenamidopropyl betaine sold, for example, under the name Amphoram U® by the company Ceca; and mixtures thereof. The amphoteric surfactant is present in a solids content of less than 2.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Above an active material content of greater than 2.5% of amphoteric surfactant, destabilization of the aqueous gel is observed.

The amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) (as active material) may range from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. c) Non-ionic surfactants

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a non-ionic surfactant chosen, for example, from alkylpolyglycosides, maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, and glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkyl polyglycoside” is intended to mean an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1 ) or an alkyl polysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than 1 ).

The alkyl polyglycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They generally correspond to formula (II) below:

R-0-(G)a

in which: the radical R denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; the group G is a saccharide residue;

a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 and especially from 1.2 to 3. Examples of alkyl polyglycosides that may be mentioned include decyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ® by the company Henkel or the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 371 1 ® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 1 10 ® by the company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ® by the company Henkel; cocoyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP ® by the company Henkel; methyl cocoyl glucoside sold under the name Eumulgin GTS by the company Cognis; octyldodecyl xyloside sold, for example, under the names Fluidanov 20X or Easynov by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP ® by the company Cognis.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside. Preferably, they are chosen from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside. Even more preferentially, it is caprylyl/capryl glucoside.

The alkyl polyglucoside(s) may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1.5% to 20% by weight and even better still from 1 .5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-ionic surfactants that may also be used include PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, for instance Glucamate DOE 120 from the company Noveon or PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, for instance Crothix from the company Croda.

The amount of non-ionic surfactants (as active material) preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 % to 5% by weight and better still from 1 % to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total amount of foaming surfactant active material in the composition is between 1 % and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 35% by weight, even more preferentially between 5% and 30% by weight and better still between 7% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of sulfate surfactants. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "free of sulfate surfactants" is intended to mean a composition comprising an amount of sulfate surfactants of between 0 and 1 % by weight and preferably between 0 and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention includes an amount of water of at least 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 40% to 95% by weight and better still from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les- Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. Water-soluble additives that may especially be mentioned are polyols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. The term“polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol, glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol is chosen from glycerol and hexylene glycol. Preferably, the polyol is glycerol.

Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may especially be suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair.

The amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH of greater than or equal to 5, which makes it possible to optimize its stability.

The compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants normally used in the cosmetics field and especially those used in cleansing products. Examples of adjuvants that may be mentioned include fragrances, preservatives, sequestrants (EDTA), pigments, nacres, mineral or organic, matt-effect, whitening or exfoliant fillers, soluble dyes, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, antiseptics, antiseborrhoeic agents, antimicrobials, such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan, azelaic acid, and also optical brighteners, non-ionic polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), anionic polymers, conditioning amphoteric polymers such as polyquaternium products, for instance Polyquaternium-47 sold under the reference Merquat 2001 by the company Nalco, and fatty substances that are incompatible with the aqueous medium, for instance oils and waxes. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 % to 25% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

Active agents that may be mentioned include any care or cleansing active agent usually used in cosmetics, and in particular antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid, salicylic acid derivatives such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, essential oils, fruit waters (for example from apple or grape) or floral waters (for example rose water), plant extracts (especially from tea, mint, orchid or soybean), leaf, flower or petal inclusions, mineral salts (for example zinc or copper salts), vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E, vitamin PP (niacinamide) and vitamin B3 (panthenol), and derivatives thereof.

Fillers that may be mentioned include mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name Luzenac 15 M00® by the company Luzenac, kaolin or aluminium silicate, for instance the product sold under the name Kaolin Supreme® by the company Imerys, or organic fillers such as starch, for instance the product sold under the name Amidon de Mai ' s B® by the company Roquette, Nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name Orgasol 2002 UD Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, microspheres based on expanded vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile copolymer containing isobutane, such as the products sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by the company Expancel. Fibres, for instance nylon fibres (Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm sold by Etablissements Paul Bonte), or cellulose or "Rayon" fibres (Rayon Flock RCISE N0003 M04® sold by the company Claremont Flock Corporation), may also be added to the composition of the invention.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliant particles that will allow scrubbing of the skin. Use may be made, as exfoliant particles, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origins. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, polyethylene beads or powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or such as the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont; Nylon particles, such as those sold by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 Exd Nat Cos; fibres such as polyamide fibres, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Pulpe Polyamide 12185 Taille 0.3 mm; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as pumice 3/B from Eyraud; ground shells of fruit kernels, such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminium oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), such as the product sold under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads which melt during application on the skin, for instance the spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the Unispheres names by the company Induchem, the agar-based capsules sold under the Primasponge names by the company Cognis and the spheres based on jojoba esters sold under the Floraspheres names by the company Floratech; diatomaceous earth frustules such as those sold by the company Alban Muller under the reference Diatami 60/200 microns, and polyethylene wax particles, for instance those sold by the company Sasol under the name Cirebelle.

The compositions according to the invention may especially constitute cleansing or makeup- removing products for the skin (body, face, eyes), the scalp and/or the hair, preferably products for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin (body, face, eyes).

Another subject of the invention is a process for cleansing or for removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes or the hair, and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials. According to a particular embodiment, it is a process for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin.

Another subject of the invention consists of the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, as products for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials. The compositions according to the invention may also constitute a composition for treating greasy skin and/or for disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp, especially when they contain an antibacterial agent. In particular, specific active agents for treating greasy skin may be included, for instance salicylic acid, azelaic acid, triclosan, piroctone olamine or niacinamide (vitamin PP).

Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition as defined above for the preparation of a composition for treating greasy skin and/or for disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.

Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin materials, in which the composition of the invention is applied to keratin materials in the presence of water, and the foam formed and the soiling residues are removed by rinsing with water.

In the case of cleansing the face, the composition according to the invention may constitute a mask which is rinsed off after a leave-on time of 1 to 3 minutes.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are weight percentages of starting material (SM) and/or of active material (AM).

Examples

Preparation method

The compositions described in the examples below are obtained by a cold process using the Olsa Minilab device as described below:

1 - Hydration of the carboxymethyl starch in water with stirring until a soft, smooth, homogeneous and translucent gel is obtained.

2- Addition of the preservatives and pH adjusters with stirring. Slight fluidizing is obtained.

3- Addition of the glycerol in which the polysaccharide(s) are pre-dispersed, then maintaining of the stirring until a slightly thicker, smooth, homogeneous, translucent gel is obtained.

4- Addition of the pre-homogenized surfactant mixture (clear to virtually clear phase) and then, where appropriate, of the fragrance and/or of the essential oils, until a soft, smooth, homogeneous, translucent gel is obtained.

5- Continuation of the stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. pH measurement

The pH value is measured at 25°C.

The result is expressed with a decimal.

Protocol for evaluating the foaming properties

1 .1 ml of the composition to be studied is sampled using a syringe.

The operator wets their hands with warm water and places the 1 .1 ml in the hollow of the left hand. The operator then makes 30 circular movements in 15 seconds with the wet right hand on the left hand.

The evaluation of the start of foaming is determined as the number of circular movements required to initiate the foam.

The quality of the foam is evaluated after 15s / 30 circular movements: it is observed whether the foam is homogeneous or heterogeneous, and fine or coarse.

For an acceptable foam quality: foam rather heterogeneous, coarse and fine, a grade of 4/5 to 5/5 is assigned.

For an unacceptable foam quality: foam completely homogeneous, too fine or too coarse, a grade of 3/5 to 0/5 is assigned. The amount of foam is evaluated in the following way: the operator gathers the foam together in the hollow of the left hand and the evaluation is carried out relative to the surface area occupied by the foam on a rectangle of 6 cm c 5 cm.

An optimal amount defines an occupied surface area of greater than 50%.

An insufficient amount defines an occupied surface area of less than 50%.

Protocol for evaluating the rinsing

The operator puts their hands under warm water for 15 seconds then wipes them. They then wait 1 minute.

The rinsing is evaluated by qualifying the residue (skin finish) on dry hands:

- Presence/Absence of residue;

- Tack;

- Softness.

Example 1

The following compositions are produced.

Results

Composition A in accordance with the invention comprising carboxymethyl starch in combination with cellulose has a smooth, soft and non-runny appearance, and the foaming properties are improved compared with comparative composition B which comprises cellulose alone, the appearance of which is slimy and rigid.

Example 2

The following compositions are produced.

Results

Composition C in accordance with the invention comprising carboxymethyl starch in combination with xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum has a smooth, soft and non-runny appearance, and the foaming properties are improved compared with comparative composition D which comprises xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum alone, the appearance of which is slimy and rigid. Comparative composition D’ which comprises carboxymethyl starch alone is too unstable to make it possible to measure the quality of the foam and the rinsing.

Example 3

The following compositions are produced.

Results

Compositions E to H in accordance with the invention comprising carboxymethyl starch in combination with xanthan gum has a smooth, soft and non-runny appearance, and the foaming properties are improved compared with comparative compositions I to K which comprise xanthan gum alone or carboxmethyl starch alone, the appearance of which is slimy and rigid.

Example 4

The following composition is produced.

Composition L in accordance with the invention comprising carboxymethyl starch in combination with scleroglucan gum has a smooth, soft and non-runny appearance and good foaming properties (foam initiation, foam quality, amount of foam).