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Title:
FORMULATION AND METHOD FOR PROMOTING CUTANEOUS UPTAKE OF MOLECULAR OXYGEN BY SKIN
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2017/027806
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
Inventive embodiments disclosed herein includes a cosmetic formulation. The formulation includes an extract that includes a barley grass exposed to light, the extract having a molecular oxygen partial pressure of at least about 180 mbar and a chlorophyll concentration of about 180 mg/kg.

Inventors:
PISSAVINI MARC (FR)
HANSENNE ISABELLE (US)
PUJOS MURIEL (US)
BERNINI DOROTHEE (MC)
DOUCET OLIVIER (FR)
Application Number:
PCT/US2016/046775
Publication Date:
February 16, 2017
Filing Date:
August 12, 2016
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
COTY INC (US)
PISSAVINI MARC (FR)
HANSENNE ISABELLE (US)
PUJOS MURIEL (US)
BERNINI DOROTHEE (MC)
DOUCET OLIVIER (FR)
International Classes:
A61K8/97; A61K8/02; A61K8/04; A61K8/60; A61Q19/00
Foreign References:
US4943433A1990-07-24
KR20120024509A2012-03-14
US20090068255A12009-03-12
US20060013845A12006-01-19
Other References:
KOTAKA, SADAO ET AL.: "Some Observations on the Bleaching Effect of Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid on Green Barley Leaves.", PLANT PHYSIOL, vol. 44, 1969, pages 809 - 815, XP055363319
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
PERDOK, Monique M. et al. (US)
Download PDF:
Claims:
hat is claimed is:

1. A cosmetic formulation, comprising:

an extract comprising barley grass exposed to light, the extract having a molecular oxygen partial pressure of at least about 180 mbar and a chlorophyll concentration of about 180 mg/kg,

2. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the barley grass is exposed to a light intensity is 2400Lux.

3. The formulation of claim 1, further comprising microcirculation boosters.

4. The formulation of claim 3, wherein the microcirculation boosters

comprise hesperidin, alpha glycosyl hesperidin, biostimulating soy protein and/or caffeine.

5. The formulation of claim 1, further comprising an anti-pollution shield.

6. The formulation of claim 1, further comprising bisabolol.

7. The formulation of claim 1, further comprising an eye ingredient.

8. The formulation of claim 1, further comprising one or more moisturizers. 9. The formulation of claim 1, having a gel consistency.

10. The formulation of claim 1 , having a cream consistency.

11. The formulation of claim 1, having a toner consistency.

12. A method of increasing oxygen in skin cells, comprising

formulating a skin creme or gel with an oily barley extract comprising barley exposed to light, for application to skin.

13. The formulation of claim 1, fiirther comprising a peel, wherein the formulation is within the peel. 14. The formulation of claim 1, wherein the barley is gluten free.

15. A cosmetic formulation, comprising:

A first water phase;

A second phase comprising adenosine and caffeine;

A third phase comprising glycerine and pentylene glycol;

A fourth phase comprising Carbopol Ultrez 21 ;

A fifth phase comprising actyloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer

A sixth phase comprising caprylic/capric triglyceride;

A seventh phase comprising water and sodium hydroxide;

An eighth phase comprising water; Barley concentrated Oily Extract, and phenoxyethanol;

A ninth phase comprising silicone 200/100;

A tenth phase comprising sepigel 305.

Description:
Claim of Priority

[0001] This application claims the benefit of priority of U.S. Provisional

Patent Application No. 62/204,573, filed 13 August 2015 and U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 62/208,105, filed 21 August 2015 the benefit of priority of each of which is cl aimed hereby, and which applications are incorporated by reference herein in their entireties.

Field

[0002] Inventive subject matter disclosed herein relates to methods and formulations for promoting cutaneous uptake of molecular oxygen by skin.

Background

[0003] Barley is one of the oldest cultured plants. It may be the first cereal domesticated, cultivated in the Middle East, around 7000 BC. Traces of barley are found in the Neolithic period. Barley was considered sacred by ancient Greeks. The ancient Egyptians believed that barley was cultivated by the goddess, Isis.

Summary

[0004] Inventive embodiments disclosed herein include a cosmetic formulation. The formulation includes an extract that includes a barley grass exposed to light, the extract having a molecular oxygen partial pressure of at least about 180 mbar and a chlorophyll concentration within a range of about 180 mg/kg.

[ΘΘΘ5] Embodiments also include a method of increasing oxygen in skin cells. The method includes formulating a skin creme or gel with an oily barley extract that includes barley exposed to light, for application to skin. The barley extract also includes the extract having a molecular oxygen partial pressure of at least about 180 mbar and a chlorophyll concentration of about 180 mg/kg. i Drawings

[0006] Figure 1 is a graphical view of the pallia! pressure in mbar of an eye cream without barley extract and with a barley extract and a gel cream without a barley extract and with a barley extract. Eye cream with 0.5% barley- shows an improvement until about 3,0 mbar compared to eye cream without barley after 1 month at room temperature (rt). Gel cream with 0.5% barley shows an improvement until about 2,5 mbar compared to gel cream without barley after 1 month at rt.

[0007] Figure 2 is a graphical view of oxygen measurements of an exemplar}' gel creme. Demonstrates improved skin oxygenation (n = 9).

[0008] Figures 3A-B are graphical views of oxygen and chlorophyll content in a barley extract embodiment of the present invention. A) O2 content in partial pressure measurement by oximeter. B) Chlorophyll.

[0009] Figure 4 is a graphical view of oxygen partial pressure at RT in three barley extracts exposed to 60 Watt/600Lux, 75 Watt/2400Lux and lOOWatt/20000 Lux.

[0010] Figure 5 is a graphical view showing a 14% increase in ATP production for normal human fibroblast cells treated with a barley extract embodiment of the present invention compared to an untreated control fibroblast sample (measurement by bioluminescence).

[0011] Figure 6 is a mi orographic view of skin biopsy samples treated with a gel creme that includes a barley sample and a gel creme that is free from a barley sample (normal human skin biopsies treated for 1 1 days).

Detailed Description

[0012] The following detailed description includes references to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of the detailed description. The drawings show, by way of illustration, specific embodiments in which the invention may be practiced. These embodiments, which are also referred to herein as "examples," are described in enough detail to enable those skilled in the art to practice the invention. The embodiments may be combined, other embodiments may be utilized, or structural, and logical changes may be made without departing from the scope of the present invention. The following detailed description is, therefore, not to be taken in a limiting sense, and the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

0013J In this document, the terms "a" or " 'an * ' are used to include one or more than one and the term "or" is used to refer to a nonexclusive "or" unless otherwise indicated. In addition, it is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology employed herein, and not otherwise defined, is for the purpose of description only and not of limitation. Furthermore, all publications, patents, and patent documents refeired to in this document are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety, as though individually incorporated by reference. In the event of inconsistent usages between this document and those documents so incorporated by reference, the usage in the incorporated reference should be considered supplementary to that of this document; for irreconcilable inconsistencies, the usage in this document controls.

[0014] One inventive cosmetic formulation embodiment includes a barley extract formulation having a molecular oxygen content of about 1 80 mbar partial pressure, as measured by an oximeter and a chlorophyll content of aboutl SO mg/kg, as shown graphically in Figures 3A-B. Barley extract embodiments disclosed herein are obtained from barley grass as a leaf extract. Barley grass contains a large amount of chlorophyll from photosynthesis, a source of natural bioavailable molecular oxygen for the skin. The barley extract embodiments also include this large amount of chlorophyll obtained from photosynthesis. Barley grass for the barley extract embodiments claimed herein is harvested one week after seeding, or when young leaves have a nutritional peak with respect to chlorophyll, before plants begin to produce flowers and seeds. The oily barley extract embodiments include chlorophyll and carotenes. These nutrients, along with molecular oxygen act to generate energy in cells by increasing generation of adenosine triphosphate, ATP, and act to boost production of essential cellular proteins.

ΘΘ15] In one test, a barley extract embodiment of the present invention was exposed to a sample of normal human fibroblasts. An unexposed, control sample was prepared in the same environment and at the same time as the exposed fibroblast sample. ATP concentrations were measured for both the exposed sample and the control sample using bioluminescence. Results are shown in Figure 5. As can be seen, ATP concentration was fourteen percent greater in the barley extract treated sample compared to the control sample.

[0016] The barley employed in the barley extract embodiments was exposed to a 75 Watt, 2400 Lux light source. Testing has also been performed on separate samples using exposure to 60 Watt, 600 Lux and 100 Watt, 20000 Lux light sources, respectively. Results of the testing is shown graphically in Figure 4. The data shows a partial oxygen pressure of about 180 mbars for barley exposed to 60 Watts/600 Lux; 183 mbars for barley exposed to 75 Waits/2400 Lux and 178 mbars for barley exposed to 100 Watts/20000 Lux. The data shows that the most intense light did not produce barley having the highest oxygen partial pressure. The barley exposed to 75 Watts/2400 Lux produced extract with the highest oxygen partial pressure.

[0017] Barley extract embodiments disclosed herein are obtained from barley cultivated under a specific type of lighting. Lighting used to make the barley extract is 2400 Lux, as measured with a luximeter. A Lux is equal to one lumen per square meter.

[0018] It has surprisingly been found that cosmetic formulations made with an oily barley extract having barley exposed to the higher light intensity are rich m chloroplasts and demonsirate an increase in oxygen compared to formulas without the barley extract. Formulations disclosed herein have demonstrated an improved oxygen content exposed to the formulations, as shown in Figures 1 and 2. Molecular oxygen from ambient air is absorbed within the skin as a concentration gradient. The gradient is driven by a cutaneous uptake of oxygen and a microcirculation system that transfers molecular oxygen from the barley extract and the atmosphere into the cutaneous and subcutaneous layers of the skin.

[0019] Cream containing the barley extract is applied to the exterior surface of skin and aids in the barley extract diffusing into the skin to provide skin with an increased oxygen supply. Creams made with barley extract embodiments increase molecular oxygen concentrations over time. In one example, a gel creme having a partial pressure of molecular oxygen of 112 mbars, initially, had a partial pressure of 107.8 mbars one month later.

[0020] Ail living organisms that depend upon oxygen obtain their energy from a respirator}' system where molecular oxygen is reduced to water and energy in the form of ATP. Any li ving organism requires energy in enough quantity to stay metabolically active, repair and regenerate for cell division. In particular, human cells from skin, directly exposed to sun, are highly dependent upon energy to fight damage and to fight cell deregulation. Cellular energy levels decrease with age and these deficiencies are highly correlated with alteration of human skin structure. This mechanism produces signs of aging.

[0021] Oxygen is an essential factor in collagen production. Appropriate molecular oxygen concentration is essential in allowing normal hydroxylation of collagen and accumulation of neo synthesized collagen is increased in tissue with elevated PO(2). When oxygen is brought to fibroblasts, it increases their synthetic capacity.

[0022] Oxygen supply by microcirculation and skin oxygen content in the skin depend upon factors like age, sex, and microangiopathic risk. Thus, smokers have a reduced amount of oxygen in their skin. Male subjects in general have lower PO(2) levels than women. In women, PO(2) levels decrease rapidly from ages 30 to 45 and then start increasing again after 50 years. This increase may be linked to changes of skin thickness in relation to hormonal changes and hormonal replacement therapy. Aging is accompanied by an increase of insufficient oxygen supply from capillaries to the tissue.

[0023] For some embodiments, the barley extract is combined with other ingredients to relaunch cellular respiration by increasing and improving microcirculation. These other ingredients include caffeine, alpha glycosyl hesperidin and soy protein.

[0024] Some formulation embodiments include skin microcirculation boosters. Boosters include caffeine and alpha glycosyl hesperidin, known to boost skin microcirculation. Soy protein extract is used for some embodiments, as a cell respiration booster. The soy protein extract improves the energy level of cells, relaunching ceil respiration.

[0025] Some formulation embodiments include an anti-pollution complex. The anti -pollution complex includes combination of rpfnn, cyclo amino acid, Tahitian extract and a biotechnology agent.

[0026] Some formulation embodiments include an antioxidant complex.

The antioxidant complex includes angelica, pongamia, green coffee, green tea, and bitter orange peel. The antioxidant complex neutralizes up to 95% of free radicals responsible for premature aging. The effectiveness of the antioxidant complex is shown in Figure 2.

[0027] Some formulation embodiments include ectoin. Ectoin is a substance produced by halophilic bacteria, such as ectothiorhodospira halochloris, which survive and grow under extreme conditions in salt lakes, sea water and saline deserts. Exposed to high dosage of UV radiation, dryness, extreme temperatures and high salinity, these bacteria have managed to adapt to these inhospitable conditions. The cells maintain cell stability by synthesizing ectoin, a cyclo amino acid compatible with the metabolism of the cell, even in high concentrations.

[0028J Carbon particles and diesel exhaust significantly increase expression of toxic pathway of cells as well as pro pigmentation pathway and pro aging pathway. Ectoin reduces these increases, helping to limit further toxin production, pollution induced pigmentation and pollution induced aging.

[0029] Tahiti an extract is a polysaccharide extract obtained from a lagoon on the island of Moorea in French Polynesia. Tahiti an extract is a chelator of heavy metal s in pollution, in particular, cadmium and lead, which are often present in diesel exhaust, atmospheric pollution and pollutants. On the island of Moorea, a system of ponds provides excellent environmental conditions to develop microbial communities called, Kopara, which produce under stress conditions, exopolysaccharides to protect from external aggression. Tahitian polysaccharide extract biosorbs cadmium and lead.

[0030] A biotechnological agent is added to some embodiments of the formulation to boost cell detoxification by boosting autophagy. Autophagy is used by cells for repeated moderate stress or intense stress to eliminate altered proteins that become toxic for the cell and recycle them into amino acids. With age, or when cells are overwhelmed by aggression, the autophagy system can declines. The biotechnological extract boosts autophagy via formation of ivsosomes which are a key actor in the autophagic detoxification system and by favoring lc-2 synthesis, protein involved in autophagosomes formation.

Lysosomes are small bags containing hydrolytic enzymes able to digest macromolecules.

[0031] Some formulation embodiments include bisabolol. Bisabolob has a soothing and anti-irritating effect. [0032] Eye formulations disclosed herein include a combination of peptides and a flavonoid to act on three components of puffiness: capillar ' permeability; lymphatic drainage; and inflammation. Polyphenol, found in citrus, regulates capillary permeability. Dipeptide vailitryptophan limits action of angiotensin converting enzyme, contributing to regulating lymphatic circulation. Palmitoyi oligopeptide acts on firmness and reduces inflammation. Canneme reduces puffiness and dark circles.

[0033] One formulation embodiment is a pale green, transluscent gel creme which leaves a cool refreshing, light weight and is hydrating after feel.

Part 1 :

[0034] An eye cream was employed for the test. For one sample of eye cream, 0.5% w/w barley extract was added. For another sample, no barley extract was added. Measurement of oxygen was based upon measurements of partial pressure of oxygen in the two samples. Results are shown in Figure 1. The eye cream that included the barley extract had an oxygen content about 3.0 mbax more than the oxygen content of the eye cream not containing a barley extract.

Part 2:

[0035] A gel cream was employed for the test. For one sample of gel cream, 0.5% w/w barley extract was added. For another sample, no barley extract was added. Measurement of oxygen was based upon measurements of partial pressure of oxygen in the two samples. Results are shown in Figure 1. The gel cream that included the barley extract had an oxygen content about 2.5 mbar more tha the oxygen content of the gel cream not containing a barley extract.

[00361 When the gel creme, including the barley extract was applied to a normal human skin biopsy, Collagen I and elastin showed significant improvement compared to that of a skin cell biopsy that was not treated, as shown in Figure 6.

ΘΘ37] The embodiments are described in sufficient detail to enable those skilled in the art to practice the invention. Other embodiments may be utilized and formulation and method of using changes may be made without departing from the scope of the invention. The detailed description is not to be taken in a limiting sense, and the scope of the invention is defined only by the appended claims, along with the full scope of equivalents to which such claims are entitled.

ΘΘ38] It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes could be made to the embodiments described above without departing from the broad inventive concept thereof. It is understood, therefore, that this invention is not limited to the particular embodiments disclosed, but it is intended to cover modifications within the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the present description.