Technical Field

The present invention relates to the perfume industry and to the field of organic synthesis. It concerns more particularly a perfuming composition or a perfumed product, comprising as a perfuming ingredient at least one macrolide of formula

having a double bond in one of the positions indicated by the dotted lines and wherein symbol R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, together with a current perfuming co-ingredient, solvent or adjuvant. The invention further concerns a method to impart, improve, enhance or modify the fragrance of a perfuming composition or of a perfumed product, which method comprises adding thereto at least one macrolide of formula (I) as defined above. Other objects of the invention are novel compositions of matter, for example, consisting of a mixture of said macrolides, the mixture having a content of at least 70% by weight of macrolides of formula (I) wherein the double bond has an (E) configuration. Or yet, of l l-tetradecen-14-olide having a chemical purity of 90% or more.

The invention also relates to an original process for the preparation of macrolides (I).

Prior Art

The compounds of formula (I) above are macrocyclic lactones, the structures of which have been mentioned in the prior art, typically in the context of synthetic

studies aimed at the preparation of large carbocycles or in reactions where these lactones are intermediate products which are chemically converted into structurally related end products, without being properly characterized.

US patent No. 3,890,353, for example, describes a process for the preparation of saturated macrocyclic lactones having 14 to 17 carbon atoms in the ring, via complete hydrogenation of intermediate mixtures of saturated and unsaturated lactones. In the context of this disclosure, there is described an intermediate mixture of

14-methyl-14-tetradec-(U and 12)-enolide and 14-methyl-14-tetradecanolide, the hydrogenation of which leads to the latter. This mixture is disclosed purely as a chemical intermediate in said process, and there is no teaching of the chemical or physical characteristics of 14-methyl-14-tetradec-(l l and 12)-enolide, its isomeric composition for instance remaining totally unknown.

A.G. Cameron et al., on the other hand, fully characterize (E)- and

(Z)-12-tetradecen-14-olide, used as intermediates in the context of Ireland enolate

Claisen rearrangement type reactions (see J. Chem. Soc. Perkin Trans. 1, 1986, 161).

This article is however silent as regards any other potential use or property of the described tetradecenolides.

It is also known in the art that some higher homologues of compounds (I) are prized perfume ingredients. In this context, one can cite for example 15-pentadecanolide, a saturated higher homologue, better known under the tradename of Exaltolide ^®

(trademark of Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland), which is described in the US patent cited above.

A more recent document, EP-B 1-424 787, describes useful perfuming ingredients formed of (1 l,12)-pentadecen-15-olides.

It is, therefore, with great surprise, that we have discovered that, in spite of the structural teachings cited above, there is no suggestion in the prior art of the object of the present invention, i.e. the advantageous application of the newly discovered and unexpected fragrance properties of lactones (I) and their mixtures.

Description of the Invention

We have now established that lactones (I) are not only extremely useful fragrance ingredients, but that they possess in fact odors which are quite specific and original, distinct from those of their known homologues. These compounds reveal themselves capable of creating new olfactive effects, unsuspected heretofore, as becomes apparent from the following description.

As previously cited, a main object of the invention is therefore a perfuming composition or a perfumed product, comprising as a perfuming ingredient at least one macrolide of formula

having a double bond in one of the positions indicated by the dotted lines and wherein symbol R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, together with a current perfuming co-ingredient, solvent or adjuvant.

As a result of the presence of the double bond in their structure, lactones (I) can occur in four isomeric forms (1 1-cis, 11 -trans, 12-cis and 12-trans), corresponding to the cis- or trans-configuration of said double bond, and these four isomers can possess distinct odors. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the perfuming compositions or the perfumed products will comprise a mixture of macrolides, which mixture has a content of at least 70% by weight of macrolides (I) wherein the double bond in position 1 1 or 12 of the ring has an (E) configuration.

We have in fact observed that, as a result of the original process for their preparation that we describe further on, such mixtures can be directly obtained from the synthesis and have proved to be superior odor ingredients.

These compounds can in fact be used in a great variety of perfumery applications. It has been established that they can impart to the compositions and

consumer products to which they are added musky fragrances which are accompanied by other odor nuances rendering lactones (I) extremely useful for replacing some known materials, the use of which was prevalent in the past for imparting musky fragrances but is fast becoming very restricted for toxicological and/or environmental reasons.

Compounds (I) fulfill just the necessary conditions to perform such a role and this is especially true as regards l l-tetradecen-14-olide and the mixtures of this lactone with 12-tetradecen-14-olide, which are all preferred perfuming ingredients of the invention. They develop a very pleasant and fine musky odor, characterized by a strong note of the so-called "nitromusk" type, i.e. sweet, animal and strongly reminiscent of the odor of ox blood. The perfumery value of these ingredients is judged by the perfumer experts to be immense, as their fragrance effect makes it possible to return to the classical musk perfumery effects of the sweet, animal, powdery, ox blood type, which have been for many years the basis of perfumery creations and can no longer be easily reproduced since the restrictions on the use of compounds such as Musk Ketone and

Musk Ambrette.

According to the invention, the use of mixtures of l l-tetradecen-14-olide and 12-tetradecen-14-olide wherein the content in (E)-l l-tetradecen-14-olide is 80% by weight or more of the weight of the mixture is particularly advantageous for the preparation of perfuming compositions and perfumed products of varied nature. These preferred perfuming ingredients of formula (I) wherein R represents hydrogen, although they are somewhat less powerful and tenacious than some of their known higher homologues, turned out to be preferred to the latter for certain perfume applications to which they bring this classical musk effect much sought after by the perfumers. When tested in current commercial perfumes in which they were made to replace the key ingredients Musk ambrette or Musk ketone, the compounds of the invention were also repeatedly preferred, and this even when compared to known and well-liked substances such as Exaltolide ^® (origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland), 5-methyl-5-pentadecen-l-one (see US 5,354,735 for example ; origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland) or yet (l l,12)-pentadecen-15-olide (see US 5,266,559 for example ; origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland).

As for the ingredients of formula (I) where R represents a methyl group, they impart to the compositions and consumer products into which they are incorporated a really natural musk quality, reminiscent of the odor of the tincture of the musk gland from the musk deer. Once again, the mixtures of 1 l-pentadecen-14-olide and

12-pentadecen-14-olide which contain at least 70% or more by weight of macrolides having a double bond of (E) configuration are particularly appreciated. The macrocyclic lactones of formula (I) will be typically used in the perfuming compositions and perfumed products of the invention in admixture with the usual perfuming co-ingredients, solvents and adjuvants, as is current in the art, and as a function of the type of fragrance that one desires to achieve and the creative imagination of the perfumer. Such current perfuming co-ingredients belong to all the usual chemical classes such as alcohols, ethers, esters, ketones, aldehydes and the like. It is clear that it is not warranted here to list such ingredients in a detailed manner, as their nature is part of the general knowledge of the skilled person as represented for example by, but certainly not restricted to, the teaching of textbooks such as the work of S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals, Montclair, N.J., USA (1969) and others. One can cite in this context and as is apparent from the examples, the fact that, for example, 1 l-tetradecen-14-olide and its mixtures above-mentioned can marry particular well with other known macrocyclic lactones such as Exaltolide ^® (origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland) and Astrotone to provide improved fragrances with the prized "nitromusk" character.

The concentrations in which these lactones (I) can be added to the perfuming compositions and perfumed products of the invention vary in a wide range of concentrations, the values of which are dictated by the nature of the end product and by the nature of the other ingredients present in the composition. Typical concentrations in perfumes and perfuming concentrates are of the order of 1 to 10 or 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, but can be higher, depending on the degree of odor contribution from these compounds that is desired for the overall effect in a particular fragrance creation. Quite generally too, much lower concentrations will be required for perfuming consumer products other than perfumes, colognes and the like. One can cite as typical perfumed end products of this kind, soaps, bath and shower gels,

6

shampoos, hair-conditioners and other hair-care products, cosmetic preparations such as skin products and other, body or air-deodorants, fabric detergents and softeners, dishwashing products or yet other household and cleaning products.

The invention also includes novel compositions of matter consisting of a mixture of macrolides of formula

having a double bond in one of the positions indicated by the dotted lines and wherein symbol R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, said mixture having a content of at least 70% by weight of macrolides of formula (I) wherein the double bond has an

(E) configuration.

Preferred compositions of matter of the invention amongst those above, include the mixtures of l l-tetradecen-14-olide and 12-tetradecen-14-olide and, more particularly, those among the latter which contain around 80% by weight of

(E)-l l-tetradecen-14-olide or more.

As pointed out before, these compositions of matter possess entirely surprising odor properties, whereas there is no suggestion in the prior art references cited which could have given guidance to the particular combinations of macrolides above-mentioned. These novel compositions of matter can be prepared by a process which comprises the fragmentation of a hydroperoxide of formula

(II)

wherein R has the meaning indicated in formula (I), in an inert medium and in the presence of transition metal salts.

Useful macrolide preparation methods of this type have been described in the prior art, namely by S.L. Schreiber and his collaborators, in J. Amer. Chem. Soc.

1980, 102, 6163 and Tetrahedron, 1986, 42, 2945, which consist of a homolytic cleavage of the peroxide bond, promoted by an excess of iron sulphate, followed by the fragmentation of the resulting alkoxy radical by means of a methanol solution saturated with cupric acetate. A similar process is described in EP 424 787.

In a more recent publication, RU-C-1436465, it has been suggested to use a catalytic amount of copper acetate, in a solvent consisting of a ketone, to improve the yield in 15-pentadecanolide and in the intermediate unsaturated analogues. Although the authors seem to suggest that the use of ketones as solvents provides better results, the method seems to be in fact quite general and many other types of current solvents which are inert under the reaction conditions can be used, such as esters, namely acetates, formates and propionates, ketones, some of which are cited in the Russian document above-mentioned, alcohols, or yet aliphatic hydrocarbons, both cyclic and acyclic, as well as aromatic hydrocarbons.

Likewise, many other inorganic or organic copper salts or complexes can be used as the catalyst, amongst which there can be cited the copper halides, chlorides in particular, complexes such as copper acetylacetonate, copper carboxylates such as the acetate, propionate or butyrate, or yet copper caproate, benzoate, pivalate, valerate or isovalerate, laurate and 2-ethylhexanoate, all of which are current reagents in copper catalysis. Other examples include copper octanoates, decanoates and naphthenates, of current use in the paint industry.

The reaction can be carried out at a variety of temperatures, the reflux temperature of the solvent, as suggested in the Russian document, being however quite convenient as it allows for azeotropic elimination of the water formed.

As for the starting products, one of the hydroperoxides (II), i.e. 14-methyl-13-oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadecan-12-yl hydroperoxide, is a known compound, described for example by J. Becker et al. in Helv. Chim. Acta 1971, 54, 2889. The other starting product, 13-oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadecan-12-yl hydroperoxide,

which has never been described in the prior art, can be prepared from

13-oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadec-l(12)-ene (see, for example, US 3,856,815), by reacting the latter with hydrogen peroxide, in an inert organic solvent and in the presence of an acid catalyst, in accordance with prior described methods (see, for example, J. Becker et al., refs. cited or yet US 5,266,559). If desired, the preparation of the compounds (II) can of course be carried out in the solvent medium used for their subsequent fragmentation.

This process allows the preparation of macrolides (I) in excellent yields and under reaction conditions which are quite convenient for profitable industrial application. Furthermore, it is in fact a general method for preparing unsaturated macrocyclic lactones, amongst which known higher homologues thereof.

The invention will now be described in further detail by way of the following examples, wherein the temperatures are indicated in degrees Celsius and the abbreviations have the usual meaning in the art.

Embodiments of the Invention

Example 1

Preparation of (1 1.121-tetradecen-14-olide General method

In a 2 1 vessel equipped with a distillation head, there was introduced a solution of the chosen copper catalyst (for example, copper acetate, copper acetylacetonate, copper octanoate, copper naphthenate, copper stearate, copper isovalerate, copper ethylcaproate, copper decanoate, etc) in the selected solvent, to which there was added a solution of 13-oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadecan-12-yl hydroperoxyde in said solvent (for example 4-methyl-2-pentanone, 5-methyl-2-hexanone, 3-methyl-tetrahydropyran, 1-tert-butoxy- 2-methoxyethane, methyl tert-amyl-acetate, butyl acetate, 1-butanol or 2-methylpropyl acetate), this solution being added to the catalyst over a period of typically 1 to 2 h. The hydroperoxide above-mentioned was usually present at a concentration of 5 to 25% by weight of the solution and the copper catalyst in a 1 to 2 mole % relative to the

hydroperoxide. The mixture was then taken to reflux for about 2 to 3 h and the water distilled as it was formed. After cooling and filtering the catalyst, evaporation of the solvent provided the desired mixture of lactones as a raw product, which can be further purified by fractional distillation.

In a typical experiment, using 0.12 g of copper acetate in 10 g of 3-methyl-2-butanone, to which there was added over 2 h a suspension of 3 g (0.012 mole) of 13-oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadecan-12-yl hydroperoxide in 20 g of 3-methyl-2-butanone, there was obtained, after distillation from residues, and the usual treatment a raw product (65% yield) containing 19% of (E)-12-tetradecen-14-olide, 64% of (E)-l l-tetradecen-14-olide, 7% (Z)-l l-tetradecen-14-olide and about 9% by weight of tetradecanolide. In another test using 2.4 g of copper naphthenate in 100 g of methyl tert-amyl ether, to which there was added a solution of the same hydroperoxide in methyl tert-amyl ether (-15% by weight), there was obtained, after distillation from residues a product which contained about 65% of (E)- 1 1 -tetradecen- 14-olide, 27% of

(E)-12-tetradecen-14-olide and 6% of (Z)-l 1 -tetradecen- 1 1-olide. Fractionating on a

Fischer type column (B.p. = 50-54°/10 Pa) provided pure (1 1 ,12)-tetradecen-l 4-olide in the form of a mixture containing about 82% by weight of (E)- 1 1 -tetradecen- 14-olide,

8.6% by weight of (E)-12-tetradecen-l 4-olide and 8.5% by weight of

(Z)-l 1 -tetradecen- 14-olide.

The analytical characters of these macrolides were the following :

NMR('H, 360MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 5.42(m, 2H) ; 4.17(dd, J,=5, J ₂ =5.5, 2H) ; 2.35(m, 4H) ;

2.05(m, 2H) ; l,64(m, 2H) ; 1.5-l.l(m, 12H) δ ppm

NMR( ^,3 C, 90.5MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 174.4(s) ; 132.7(d) ; 127.5(d) ; 64.1(f) ; 33.6(t) ; 31.4(f) ;

31.0(f) ; 28.6-24.9(7xt) δ ppm

MS : 224(M\ 23), 109(20), 96(29), 95(40), 82(58), 81(70), 69(31), 68(100), 67(91), 55(80), 54(62), 41(85), 39(33), 29(24).

Retention time (SPB1 type column, 30 m, 130°, 5 min, 240° at 5 min) : 13.764 min.

(E)- 12-Tetradecen- 14-olide

MS : 224(M ⁺ , 10), 1 1 1(19), 98(43), 95(37), 82(44), 81(58), 69(37), 68(53), 67(70),

55(100), 54(61), 41(92), 39(34), 29(25). Retention time : 13.501 min.

tZ l 1 -Tetradecen- 14-olide MS : 224(M ⁺ , 14), 109(20), 96(27), 95(40), 82(57), 81(68), 69(27), 68(100), 67(84), 55(66), 54(56), 41(64), 39(22), 29(16). Retention time : 13.942 min.

The 13-oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadecan-12-yl hydroperoxide used as starting product is a novel compound which was prepared from 13-oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadec-l(12)-ene having the following characteristics :

NMR('H, 360MHz, CDC1,) : 4.20(t, J=8.4, 2H) ; 2.5(m, 2H) ; 2.12(m, 4H) ; 1.6-1. l(m,

16H) δ ppm

NMR( ¹³ C, 90.5MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 150.8(s) ; 107.4(s) ; 67.6(t) ; 32.7(f) ; 25.4-22.0(10xt) δ ppm

MS : 208(M ⁺ , 34), 165(16), 151(26), 137(35), 123(22), 109(74), 97(100), 96(40),

84(80), 81(26), 55(42), 41(40). by reacting with H ₂ O ₂ in the presence of an acid (see, for example, US 5,266,559). The structure of the cristalline product obtained was established by X-ray cristallography and showed a strictly trans fusion of the two rings.

This hydroperoxide showed the following spectral characteristics :

NMR('H, 360MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 4.1 l(m, 1H) ; 3.88(m, 1H) ; 2.31(m, 1H) ; 2.07(m, 2H) ;

1.51-1.20(m, 20H) δ ppm NMR( ¹³ C, 90.5MHz, CDC ,) : 1 15.0(s) ; 68.1(f) ; 40.0(d) ; 30.5(f) ;

27.4-19.4(10xt) δ ppm

MS : 210(16), 209(100), 109(8), 97(12), 69(8), 55(7), 41(12).

Example 2

Preparation of ( 1 1.12Vpentadecen- 14-olide

Following the method described in Example 1 , but using 14-methyl-13- oxabicyclo[10.3.0]pentadecan-12-yl hydroperoxide (see, for example, J. Becker et al., Helv. Chim. Acta, 1971. 54, 2889) having the following characteristics :

NMR('H, 360MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 4.20(m, IH) ; 2.40(m, IH) ; 1.34(d, J=6, 3H) ; 2.2-1.2(m, 23H) δ ppm

NMR( ^,3 C, 90.5MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 115.0(s) ; 76.6(d) ; 41.2(d) ; 38.5(t) ;

27.9-19.4(10xt) δ ppm MS : 223(M ⁺ , -33, 1 1), 123(6), 1 1 1(12), 98(12), 69(25), 55(62), 43(100), 41(73).

There was obtained in 61% yield, a raw product which was purified by bulb-to-bulb distillation (58°/8 Pa) to provide the above-mentioned pentadecenolide in the form of a mixture containing 31% by weight of (E)-l 1-pentadecen-l 4-olide, 52% by weight of (E)-12-pentadecen-l 4-olide, 3.4% by weight of (Z)-l l-pentadecen-14-oIide and 3.8% by weight of (Z)-12-pentadecen-l 4-olide plus 8.5% by weight of pentadecan-14-olide.

NMR('H, 360MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 1.21, 1.28(d, J=7Hz, 3H) ; 5.01(m, IH) ; 5.32-5.72(m, 2H) ; 2.33(m, 2H) ; 2.52(m, IH) ; 3.97(m, 2H) ; 5.33(dd, J,=7Hz, J ₂ =16Hz, IH) ; 5.42(ddd, J,=6Hz, J ₂ =7.5Hz, J ₃ =16Hz, IH) δ ppm

NMR( ^,3 C, 90.5MHz, CDC1 ₃ ) : 173.7, 173.2(s) ; 134.0, 132.7, 130.5, 126.7(d) ; 71.0, 70.5(d) ; 38.7-20.5(20xt) ; 20.5(q) δ ppm

(EVl l-Pentadecen-14-olide

MS : 238(M\ 8), 140(14), 126(16), 1 1 1(20), 98(62), 95(33), 82(35), 81(57), 68(100), 67(66), 55(86), 43(36), 41(65), 39(18), 29(18). Retention time (SPB1 type column, 30 m, 120° 5 min, 240° 7°/min) : 34.093 min.

CE 12-Pentadecen- 14-olide

MS : 238(M\ 30), 137(14), 109(20), 98(38), 96(36), 95(46), 82(66), 81(80), 68(100),

67(90), 55(86), 54(52), 43(33), 41(88), 39(28), 29(21). Retention time : 14.348 min.

(Z)- 12-Pentadecen- 14-olide MS : 238(M ⁺ , 25), 137(15), 109(21), 98(42), 96(34), 95(49), 82(63), 81(80), 68(100), 67(89), 55(87), 54(54), 43(33), 41(92), 39(29), 29(24).

CZ 1 1 -Pentadecen- 14-olide

MS : 238(M\ 8), 140(15), 126(15), 1 12(16), 98(56), 95(34), 82(33), 81(59), 68(100),

67(68), 55(90), 43(40), 41(65), 39(24), 29(21).

Retention time : 14.510 min.

Example 3

Preparation of a perfuming composition

A base perfuming composition, of the musky, fruity type, was prepared by admixing the following ingredients :

Ingredients Parts by weight

Geranyl acetate 15

Hexylcinnamic aldehyde 105

Astrotone ^® 500

Bacdanol ^® " 130

Citronellol 20

10% * Coumarine 10

10% * Damascenone 10

10% * β-Damascone ²⁾ 40

Exaltolide ^{® 3)} 200

Geraniol 35

Hedione ^{® 4} ' 1040

Heliopropanal 30

1% * Indol 30

I so E Super ⁵ ' 50 α-Isomethylionone 105

1 % * Rose oxide ⁶⁾ 55

Phenethylol 35

Sandela ^{® 7)} 620

Vanilline 25

Prunella ^{® 8} ' 55

Cassis Base ⁸⁾ _9fi

Total 3200

* in dipropylene glycol (DIPG)

1) 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-l-yl)-2-buten-l-ol ; origin : International Flavors & Fragrances, USA

2) origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

3) pentadecanolide ; origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

4) methyl dihydrojasmonate ; origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

5) origin : International Flavors & Fragrances, USA

6) origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

7) 3-(isocamphyl-5)-cyclohexan-l-ol ; origin : Givaudan-Roure, Vernier, Switzerland

8) origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

The addition of 1200 parts by weight of the mixture of lactones described in Example 2 to this base composition provided a novel perfume with a very natural musky odor, having a clearly enhanced musk tincture character relative to the base composition. When the same amount of 1200 parts of 1 1 -tetradecen- 14-olide was added to the same base composition, a clear enhancement of the musky note imparted by Exaltolide ^® and

Astrotone was observed, together with a distinct and newly acquired "nitromusk" type note. In addition, the new composition had a far stronger odor impact, the characteristic global fragrance effect of the methylionone also having been distinctly reinforced. The same type of effect was observed when replacing this tetradecenolide by any one of the mixtures of 1 1 -tetradecen- 14-olide and 12-tetradecen- 14-olide described in Example 1.

Example 4

Preparation of a masculine cologne

A perfuming masculine base of the classical "Fougere" type was prepared by mixing the following ingredients :

Ingredients Parts by weight

Benzyl acetate 50

Linalyl acetate 160

Anisic aldehyde (redist.) 75

Auranthiol • " 70

10% * Citral pure 60

Lemon essential oil ²⁾ 100

Citronellol 25

Coumarine 10

Tarragon essential oil 60

Exaltolide ^{® 3} ' 10

Bourbon geranium essential oil 180

Heliotropin 60

Hydroxycitronellal synth. 120

Lavender essential oil 90

Linalol 60

Methylnaphthylketone 10

50% * Dalma oakmoss absolute 40

Patchouli essential oil 45

Phenethylol 40

Orange essential oil ⁾ 90

Amyl salicylate 120

Benzyl salicylate 180

Sandal wood essential oil 45

10% * Vanilline 80

Bourbon vetyver essential oil 20

10% * Ylang essential oil 50

Total 1850

* in dipropylene glycol (DIPG) 1) methyl N-(7-hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctylidene)anthranilate ; origin : Givaudan- Roure, Vernier, Switzerland 2) citron Californie ; origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

3) pentadecanolide ; origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

4) Portugal Floride ; origin : Firmenich SA, Geneva, Switzerland

To this base composition, there were added 350 parts by weight of the (l l,12)-pentadecen- 14-olide mixture described in Example 2 to obtain a new Cologne which had acquired a pretty and very fine musky, animal connotation, which was not very strong, but clearly recalled the very natural odor of the tincture from the musk deer gland.

Adding to the base composition 350 parts by weight of 11 -tetradecen- 14-olide, or a mixture of the latter with 12-tetradecen- 14-olide, provided an entirely different effect.

The Fougere base composition acquired a distinctly classical character, typical of the old

Fougere type compositions derived from the famous FOUGERE ROYALE ^® , a perfume by Houbigant, an odor character that, up until now, only the use of Musk Ambrette could have provided in such a base composition.