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Title:
HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2003/061614
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
The invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising thermotropic mesogenic materials, methods for preparing such compositions and the use of thermotropic mesogens for improving the conditioning of hair.

Inventors:
MURRAY CHRISTOPHER IAN (GB)
WIRE STEPHEN LEE (GB)
Application Number:
PCT/EP2002/013565
Publication Date:
July 31, 2003
Filing Date:
November 29, 2002
Export Citation:
Click for automatic bibliography generation   Help
Assignee:
UNILEVER PLC (GB)
UNILEVER NV (NL)
LEVER HINDUSTAN LTD (IN)
MURRAY CHRISTOPHER IAN (GB)
WIRE STEPHEN LEE (GB)
International Classes:
A61K8/02; A61K8/40; A61K8/41; A61K8/92; A61Q5/12; (IPC1-7): A61K7/06
Foreign References:
EP0373988A11990-06-20
EP0512270A21992-11-11
EP0554897A21993-08-11
Other References:
DATABASE CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS [online] XP002241725, retrieved from STN Database accession no. 121:117313
J.C. LOUDET ET AL.: "nonaqueous liquid crystal emulsions", LANGMUIR, vol. 16, no. 16, 2000, pages 6724 - 6730, XP001151975
A.L.L. HUNTING: "Encyclopedia of shampoo ingredients, 2nd ed., 1985", MICELLE PRESS, US, XP002241724, 145850
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
Elliott, Peter William (Patent Department Colworth House, Sharnbroo, Bedford Bedfordshire MK44 1LQ, GB)
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Claims:
CLAIMS
1. A hair conditioning composition comprising from 0.001 to 50% by weight of a thermotropic mesogenic material.
2. A hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 comprising a waterinsoluble oily conditioning material.
3. A hair conditioning composition according to claim 2 wherein the thermotropic mesogenic material is miscible into an intimate dispersion stable to phase separation with the waterinsoluble oily conditioning material.
4. A hair conditioning composition comprising an intimate dispersion stable to phase separation of a thermotropic mesogenic material and an oily waterinsoluble conditioning material.
5. A hair conditioning composition according to claim 4 wherein the thermotropic mesogenic material comprises from 0.01 to 50% by weight of the dispersion stable to phase separation of thermotropic mesogenic material and oily waterinsoluble conditioning material.
6. A hair conditioning composition according to any one of claims 4 and 5 wherein the dispersion stable to phase separation additionally comprises a cationic surfactant.
7. A hair conditioning composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6 wherein the waterinsoluble oily conditioning material comprises a siliconebased polymer.
8. A hair conditioning composition according to claim 7 wherein the thermotropic mesogenic material comprises a siliconebased polymeric segment.
9. A method for preparing a hair conditioning composition which is in the form of an L lamellar phase dispersion at 25°C, comprising a cationic surfactant, a fatty material, a thermotropic mesogenic material and water, wherein the thermotropic mesogenic material is mixed into the composition prior to or during the formation of the Lp lamellar phase dispersion.
10. A method for preparing a hair conditioning composition comprising the steps of: a) forming a dispersion stable to phase separation comprising a thermotropic mesogenic material and an oily waterinsoluble conditioning material. b) blending the dispersion stable to phase separation with the remaining components of the hair conditioning composition.
11. A method according to claim 10 wherein the dispersion stable to phase separation of step a) additionally comprises a cationic surfactant.
12. The use of a hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim for the conditioning of hair.
13. A method for the improvement of the hair conditioning characteristics of a waterinsoluble conditioning material by the addition of a thermotropic mesogenic material to said waterinsoluble conditioning material.
Description:
HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION Field of the Invention This invention relates to hair conditioning compositions.

In particular it relates to hair conditioning compositions which improve the combability, softness or manageability of the hair.

Background to the Invention Hair care compositions which provide conditioning to the hair are well know in the art. Such compositions comprise one or more conditioning agents. The purpose of the conditioning agent is to make the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry, e. g. less static and fly- away. They also make the hair feel softer. Typically, these conditioning agents are either water-insoluble oily materials which act by spreading on the hair in the form of a film, or cationic surfactant materials or polymers, which adsorb onto the hair surface.

These conditioning materials can be employed in a variety of product forms including cleansing shampoos, rinse-off conditioners (usually applied to the hair after shampooing) and leave-on products such as hair oils or serums, mousses and styling products.

Typically, water-insoluble oily conditioning materials are dispersed in aqueous products in the form of small droplets or particles in order to facilitate the stability of the

dispersion to phase separation and to enhance the deposition of the oily material onto the hair.

A preferred water-insoluble oily conditioning material is based on silicone polymers, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes, with or without various functionalising groups. Non-silicone conditioning oils include hydrocarbon oils and triglycerides.

Although these cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and water-insoluble oily conditioning materials provide conditioning effects to the hair, it is desirable to improve the conditioning effects obtainable from them.

Summary of the Invention Surprisingly, it has been found that the incorporation of thermotropic mesogenic materials into hair conditioning formulations can provide improvements in conditioning performance in terms of combability, softness and manageability of the hair.

According to one aspect, the invention provides a hair conditioning composition comprising from 0.001 to 50% by weight of a thermotropic mesogenic material.

Another aspect of the invention is concerned with the improvement of the hair conditioning characteristics of a water-insoluble conditioning material by the addition of a thermotropic mesogenic material to said water-insoluble conditioning material.

Detailed Description of the Invention By"water-insoluble"is meant that a material is not soluble in water at a concentration of 0.5% by weight, based on weight of water, at 25°C.

By"stable to phase separation"is meant that when a dispersion of two or more components is formed my intimate mixing of the components, said components remain in a mixed state rather than separating into regions of isolated components. As a consequence, droplets of a dispersion stable to phase separation comprise all the components of the original mixture, in substantially the same ratio as when the dispersion was formed, several weeks after the preparation of the original mixture.

Where values for viscosity are given, these refer to kinematic viscosities measured using suitable apparatus at 25°C, unless otherwise specified.

In one aspect of the invention, the thermotropic mesogenic material is incorporated into the water-insoluble oily conditioning material. For this aspect of the invention, the preferred level of thermotropic mesogenic material is 0. 01% or greater, more preferably 0.05% or greater, even more preferably 0.1% or greater and most preferably 1% or greater by weight expressed as a percentage of the total weight of blended thermotropic mesogen and oily conditioning material. There is preferably 50% or less, more preferably 40% or less, even more preferably 25% or less and most preferably 10% or less by weight of the thermotropic

mesogenic material expressed as a percentage of the total weight of blended thermotropic mesogen and oily conditioning material.

In a preferred form of this aspect of the invention, the thermotropic mesogenic material is intimately mixed with the oily conditioning material prior to the incorporation of the conditioning material into the final hair conditioning composition, whereby the mesogenic material and the water- insoluble oily conditioning material are in the form of a dispersion stable to phase separation, preferably a single phase blend. If the final product is a hair oil, then the oily conditioning material comprising the thermotropic mesogen may be the main constituent of the final conditioning product.

In another preferred form of this aspect of the invention, a cationic surfactant is intimately mixed with the thermotropic mesogenic material and with the oily conditioning material prior to the incorporation of the conditioning material into the final hair conditioning composition. For this aspect of the invention, the preferred level of cationic surfactant in the intimate blend is 0.001% or greater, more preferably 0.01% or greater, even more preferably 0.1% or greater and most preferably 1% or greater by weight expressed as a percentage of the total weight of blended thermotropic mesogen, oily conditioning material and cationic surfactant. There is preferably 50% or less, more preferably 40% or less, even more preferably 25% or less and most preferably 10% or less by weight of the cationic surfactant expressed as a percentage of the total

weight of blended thermotropic mesogen, oily conditioning material and cationic surfactant.

In another preferred aspect of the invention, the nature of the thermotropic mesogenic material is selected in order to allow miscibility with the oily conditioning material such that the blend of the two materials forms a dispersion stable to phase separation, preferably a single phase over some range of ratios of thermotropic mesogen to oily conditioning material.

In embodiments of the invention wherein the oily conditioning material is a silicone compound, it is preferred if the thermotropic mesogenic material comprises a silicone-based polymeric segment in its molecular structure.

In embodiments of the invention wherein the thermotropic mesogen is furnished with phenyl groups, it is preferred, when the oily conditioning material is a silicone, that the silicone should also have phenyl groups, whereby the thermotropic mesogenic material and the silicone-based oily conditioning material are miscible.

In another aspect of the invention, the thermotropic mesogenic materials can be incorporated into hair conditioning products, irrespective of whether oily conditioning materials are also present in the final product. For this embodiment of the invention, the thermotropic mesogen should be 0.001% or greater, more preferably 0.01% or greater, most preferably 0.1% or greater by weight of the total composition. There should be 10% or

less, more preferably 5% or less, most preferably 3% or less by weight of thermotropic mesogenic material with respect to the composition.

In another aspect of the invention, the thermotropic mesogenic material is incorporated into a hair conditioner composition comprising cationic surfactant and fatty material which forms a lamellar phase in combination with the cationic surfactant at room temperature (25°C).

Examples of suitable fatty materials include fatty acids (i. e. C10 to C22), long chain fatty alcohols (i. e. C10 to C22) and ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

In this aspect of the invention, it is preferred if the thermotropic mesogenic material is incorporated into the composition prior to or during the formation of the aqueous lamellar phase dispersion which arises from the combination of cationic surfactant and fatty alcohol. This can be accomplished by pre-blending the thermotropic mesogenic material with the fatty material prior to its addition to the composition, or by adding the thermotropic mesogenic material to the rest of the composition at an elevated temperature (typically above 40°C) such that the lamellar dispersion forms as the composition is cooled to room temperature.

Thermotropic Mesogens Mesogens are materials which form liquid crystalline phases (also known as mesophase) under certain conditions. The liquid crystalline phase is a state of matter which is less

ordered than crystals and more ordered than liquids. The liquid crystalline phase flows like isotropic liquids, but exhibit anisotropic behaviour in mechanical and optical properties. This anisotropy distinguishes the liquid crystalline phase from glasses and amorphous waxy materials.

Mesogens can be broadly classified into two types of materials: thermotropic mesogens and lyotropic mesogens.

Thermotropic mesogens form a liquid crystalline phase in a defined temperature range between the temperatures at which they exist as solid or as liquid. They are capable of forming a liquid crystalline phase without having to be mixed with any other material. Such a phase is called a thermotropic liquid crystalline phase.

By contrast, lyotropic mesogens require the presence of an additional solvent in order to form the liquid crystalline phase.

The use of the term"thermotropic mesogenic material"here means a material which is capable of forming a liquid crystalline phase in the absence of any added solvent.

To avoid confusion, it must be emphasised that the term "thermotropic mesogenic material"is used here to define a class of materials suitable for the purposes of the invention, which are defined by their ability to form thermotropic mesophases in isolation from the compositions of the invention. It does not indicate that thermotropic mesophases necessarily exist in the compositions according to the invention.

Thermotropic mesogens can be classified as low molecular mass liquid crystals and as polymeric liquid crystals and both are suitable for compositions according to the invention.

Preferred thermotropic mesogens are those which exist as a thermoptropic liquid crystal at a temperature between 0°C and 50°C, preferably between 20°C and 40°C.

Low Molecular Mass Liquid Crystals With respect to the geometrical shape of the low molecular mass liquid crystal molecule, thermotropic mesogenic materials can be divided into calamitics (rod-or lath-like molecules) and discotic (disc-like molecules). Both are suitable for this invention.

In addition, calamitic thermotropic liquid crystals can in general be sub-divided into three main categories with respect to the degree of long range orientational and positional order; nematic, smectic, and chiral analogues (of nematic and smectic). Discotic thermotropic liquid crystals can in general also be sub-divided into three main categories with respect to the degree of long range orientational and positional order; nematic, columnar and their chiral analogues (of nematic and columnar).

There are many identified mesophases and. mesogens can exhibit one or more of this phases (called polymorphism).

It is preferable if the thermotropic mesogenic materials of the present invention do not form chiral mesophases, more

preferably they form phases which are nematic and/or smectic/columnar in nature.

Polymeric Liquid Crystals Mesomorphism can also be exhibited by polymeric materials.

If calamitic or discotic mesogenic groups are attached to flexible polymer chains as side groups, or incorporated into the polymer main chain, mesophases can arise. The mesogenic groups are groups that possess a structure that is compatible with the production of thermotropic liquid crystal phases, i. e. low molecular mass liquid crystal structures. Polymer chains can also arrange in an anisotropic fashion, especially if the chain is rigid in nature. Polymer liquid crystals can be either thermotropic or lyotropic mesogens, but for this invention thermotropic mesogenic polymers are preferred.

In general, two classes of liquid crystalline polymers can be described; liquid crystal main chain polymers where the mesogenic groups are included in the polymer main chain, and liquid crystal side chain polymers (known as comb-like), where the mesogenic group is attached as a side group. The mesogenic group can be calamitic or discotic. In the mesomorphic state, the mesogenic groups adopt a parallel configuration, while the polymer chain does not. With regard to this present invention, all these polymeric classes are suitable.

The Encyclopedia of Materials: Science and Technology, Volume 5, pages 4511 to 4588 (published by Elsevier 2001,

Edited by K H Jurgen Buschow, Robert W Cahn, Merton C Fleming, Bernhard Ilschner, Edward J Kramer and Subhash Mahajan) gives more details on the molecular structures of thermotropic mesogenic materials as discussed above. These are incorporated herein by reference.

Hair Conditioning Compositions Hair treatment compositions according to the invention may suitably take the form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, mousses, oils, styling products, hair colouring products or lotions. Preferred hair treatment composition forms are shampoos, conditioners and mousses.

Shampoo Compositions A particularly preferred hair conditioning composition in accordance with the invention is a shampoo composition.

Shampoo compositions according to the invention will comprise a hair conditioning component, preferably a water- insoluble oily conditioning material.

Such a shampoo composition will comprise one or more cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Further surfactants may be present as an additional ingredient if sufficient for cleansing purposes is not provided by the emulsifier for the water-insoluble oily component. It is preferred that shampoo compositions of the invention comprise at least one further surfactant (in addition to

that used as emulsifying agent for the water-insoluble oily component) to provide a cleansing benefit.

Suitable cleansing surfactants, which may be used singularly or in combination, are selected from anionic, nonionic amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The cleansing surfactant may be the same surfactant as the emulsifier, or may be different.

Anionic Cleansing Surfactant Shampoo compositions according to the invention will typically comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha- olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di-and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate,

ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n) EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (n) EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3).

Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may also be suitable.

The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 5 to 30, preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably from 8 to 16 percent by weight of the composition.

Co-surfactant The shampoo composition can optionally include co- surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

A preferred example is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8, preferably from 1 to 4 percent by weight of the composition.

Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates,

alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate.

Another preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0 to 8, preferably from 2 to 5 percent by weight of the composition.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic (C8-C1g) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono-or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono-or di- ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.

Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

RO- (G) n wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about C20. Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C8 to about C12. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be selected from Cs or C6 monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.

The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies in the range of from about 1. 1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.3 to about 1. 5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.

Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include the Clo-Clg N-alkyl (CI-C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12-Cl8 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy

fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N- (3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

The shampoo composition can also optionally include one or more cationic co-surfactants included in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10, more preferably from 0.05 to 5, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt%. Useful cationic surfactants are described hereinbelow in relation to conditioner compositions.

The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or any emulsifier) in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 5 to 50, preferably from 5 to 30, more preferably from 10 to 25 percent by weight of the composition.

Cationic Polymer A cationic polymer is a preferred ingredient in shampoo compositions of the invention, for enhancing conditioning performance of the shampoo.

The cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or be formed from two or more types of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5 000 and 10 000 000, typically at least 10 000 and preferably in the range 100 000 to about 2 000 000. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymer having a cationic charge density in the required range.

Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth) acrylamides, alkyl (meth) acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.

Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

The cationic conditioning polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine-and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example: - copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3- methyl-imidazolium salt (e. g. chloride salt), referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-16.

This material is commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LWIQUAT tradename (e. g. LUVIQUAT FC 370); - copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-11. This material is available commercially from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e. g. , GAFQUAT 755N); - cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; - mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co- polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U. S. Patent 4,009, 256); cationic polyacrylamides (as described in W095/22311).

Other cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives. Suitably, such cationic polysaccharide polymers have a charge density in the range from 0.1 to 4 meq/g.

Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include those of the formula: A-O- [R-N (R) (R (R) X], wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R1, R2 and R3 independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and R) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp.

(Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e. g. as described in U. S. Patent 3,962, 418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e. g. as described in U. S. Patent 3,958, 581).

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series).

Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity.

JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.

Preferably the cationic conditioning polymer is selected from cationic cellulose and cationic guar derivatives.

Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162.

The cationic conditioning polymer will generally be present in compositions of the invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.05 to 1, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.5 percent by weight of the composition.

Conditioner Compositions Compositions in accordance with the invention may also be formulated as conditioners for the treatment of hair (typically after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.

Conditioning Surfactant Such a conditioner will comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture.

Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the invention contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention.

Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are those corresponding to the general formula: [N (R1) (R2) (R3) (R4)] (X) in which R1, R2, R3, and R4 are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e. g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate radicals.

The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e. g. , those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.

The most preferred cationic surfactants for conditioner compositions of the present invention are monoalkyl quaternary ammonium compounds in which the alkyl chain length is C16 to C22.

Examples of suitable cationic surfactants include: cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride,

hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleylammonium chloride and salts of these where the chloride is replaced by halogen, (e. g. , bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, or alkylsulphate.

Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in hair conditioners of the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese.

Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants. The alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and can be substituted or unsubstituted.

Particularly useful are amido substituted tertiary fatty amines. Such amines, useful herein, include stearamidopropyIdimethylamine, stearamidopropyidiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyld imethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine,

behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachid amidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide.

Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N- tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidyl behenylamine. These amines are typically used in combination with an acid to provide the cationic species.

The preferred acid useful herein includes L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L- glutamic hydrochloride, and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. Cationic amine surfactants included among those useful in the present invention are disclosed in U. S. Patent 4,275, 055 to Nachtigal, et al. , issued June 23,1981.

The molar ratio of protonatable amines to H from the acid is preferably from about 1: 0.3 to 1: 1.2, and more preferably from about 1: 0.5 to about 1: 1.1.

In the conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10, more preferably 0.05 to 5, most preferably 0.1 to 2 wt% of the total composition.

The cationic surfactants detailed in this section are also suitable for use in the aspect of the invention wherein a

cationic surfactant is intimately mixed with the thermotropic mesogenic material and with the oily conditioning material prior to the incorporation of the conditioning material into the final hair conditioning composition Fatty Materials Conditioner compositions of the invention preferably additionally comprise fatty materials. The combined use of fatty materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

By"fatty material"is meant a fatty alcohol, an alkoxylated fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a mixture thereof.

Preferably, the alkyl chain of the fatty material is full saturated.

Representative fatty materials comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.

Alkoxylated, (e. g. ethoxylated or propoxylated) fatty alcohols having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of, or in addition to,

the fatty alcohols themselves. Suitable examples include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

The level of fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the invention is suitably from 0.01 to 15, preferably from 0.1 to 10, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt%. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 10: 1 to 1: 10, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 8, optimally from 1: 1 to 1: 7, for example 1: 3.

Conditioner compositions of the invention can also contain a cationic polymer. Suitable cationic polymers are described hereinabove in relation to shampoo compositions.

Suspending Agents In a preferred embodiment, the hair conditioning composition, especially if it is a shampoo composition, further comprises from 0.1 to 5 wt% of a suspending agent.

Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic'acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol

3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives.

Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used, they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing a monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trade mark) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

The suspending agent is preferably a polymeric suspending agent.

Water-insoluble Oily Conditioning Agents The compositions of this invention preferably also contain one or more conditioning agents selected from silicone conditioning agents and non-silicone oily conditioning agents.

When conditioning agent is present in the hair treatment compositions in droplet form, the droplets may be liquid, semi-solid or solid in nature, so long as they are substantially uniformly dispersed in the fully formulated product. Any droplets of oily conditioning agent are

preferably present as either liquid or semi-solid droplets, more preferably as liquid droplets.

Silicone Conditioning Agents The compositions of the invention can contain emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning agent for enhancing conditioning performance. The silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the composition and so is present in an emulsified form, with the silicone present as dispersed droplets.

Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188. These materials can impart body, volume and stylability to hair, as well as good wet and dry conditioning.

The viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 mm2sec-1. In general we have found that conditioning performance increases with increased viscosity. Accordingly, the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 mm2sec-1, most

preferably at least 500,000 mm2sec-1, indeally at least 1,000,000 mm2sec-1. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 109 mm2sec-1 for ease of formulation.

Emulsified silicones for use in the shampoo compositions of the invention will typically have an average silicone droplet size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 micrometres (pm).

We have found that reducing the droplet size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average silicone droplet size of the emulsified silicone in the composition is less than 2 jj, m, ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 jj. m. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone droplet size of < 0. 15 pm are generally termed microemulsions.

Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the invention are also commercially available in a pre-emulsified form.

Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2- 1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation. A preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2- 1787, which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.

A further preferred example is the material available from

Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.

A further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amino functional silicones. By"amino functional silicone"is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group.

Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include: (i) polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation "amodimethicone", and the general formula: HO-[Si (CH3) 2-O-] X-[Si (OH) (CH2CH2CH2-NH-CH2CH2NH)-O-] y,-H in which x and y are numbers depending on the molecular weight of the polymer, generally such that the molecular weight is between about 5,000 and 500,000.

(ii) polysiloxanes having the general formula: Ra'G3-a-Si (OSiG2)n - (OSiGbR2-b')m-O-OSiG3-a-Ra' in which : G is selected from H, phenyl, OH or C1 8 alkyl, e. g. methyl; a is 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0; b is 0 or 1, preferably 1 ;

m and n are numbers such that (m + n) can range from 1 to 2000, preferably from 50 to 150; m is a number from 1 to 2000, preferably from 1 to 10; n is a number from 0 to 1999, preferably from 49 to 149, and R is a monovalent radical of formula-CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an aminofuctional group selected from the following: -NR''-CH2-CH2-N(R'')2 -N(N'')2 <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> -N (R) 3A<BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> -N+H (R) 2 A -N+H2(R'') A- -N(R'')-CH2-CH2-N+H2(R'') A- in which R'' is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, e. g. Cl-20 alkyl, and A is a halide ion, e. g. chloride or bromide.

Suitable amino functional silicones corresponding to the above formula include those polysiloxanes termed "trimethylsilylamodimethicone"as depicted below, and which are sufficiently water insoluble so as to be useful in compositions of the invention: Si (CH3) 3 - O - [Si (CH3) 2 - O - ]x - [Si (CH3) (R-NH- CH2CH2 NH2) - O -]y - Si (CH3) 3

wherein x + y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably, the number x + y is in the range of from about 100 to about 300.

(iii) quaternary silicone polymers having the general formula: {(R1) (R2) (R3) N+ CH2CH(OH)CH2O (CH2) 3 [Si (R) (R)-O-] n~ Si (R6) (R7) - (CHY2)3-O-CH2CH(OH)CH2N+ (R8) (R9) (R10)} (X-)2 wherein R1 and R10 may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, saturated or unsaturated long or short chain alk (en) yl, branched chain alk (en) yl and C5-C8 cyclic ring systems; R2 thru' R9 may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, straight or branched chain lower alk (en) yl, and C5-C8 cyclic ring systems; n is a number within the range of about 60 to about 120, preferably about 80, and X is preferably acetate, but may instead be for example halide, organic carboxylate, organic sulphonate or the like.

Suitable quaternary silicone polymers of this class are described in EP-A-0 530 974.

Amino functional silicones suitable for use in shampoos and conditioners of the invention will typically have a mole % amine functionality in the range of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 mole %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0 mole %, most preferably from about 0.1 to about 2.0 mole %. In general the amine concentration should not exceed about 8.0 mole % since we have found that too high an amine concentration can be detrimental to total silicone deposition and therefore conditioning performance.

The viscosity of the amino functional silicone is not particularly critical and can suitably range from about 100 to about 500,000 mm2sec-1.

Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (all ex Dow Corning), and GE 1149-75, (ex General Electric Silicones).

Also suitable are emulsions of amino functional silicone oils with nonionic and/or cationic surfactant.

Suitably such pre-formed emulsions will have an average amino functional silicone droplet size in the shampoo composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 pm. Again, we have found that reducing the droplet size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average amino functional silicone droplet size in the composition is less than 2 Rm ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 m.

Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC929 Cationic Emulsion, DC939 Cationic Emulsion, and the non-ionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2- 8154 (all ex Dow Corning).

An example of a quaternary silicone polymer useful in the present invention is the material K3474, ex Goldschmidt.

For shampoo compositions according to the invention intended for the treatment of"mixed"hair (i. e. greasy roots and dry ends), it is particularly preferred to use a combination of amino functional and non-amino functional silicone in compositions of the invention, especially when these are in the form of shampoo compositions. In such a case, the weight ratio of amino functional silicone to non-amino functional silicone will typically range from 1: 2 to 1: 20, preferably 1: 3 to 1: 20, more preferably 1: 3 to 1: 8.

The total amount of silicone incorporated into compositions of the invention depends on the level of conditioning desired and the material used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to 10 wt% for incorporation into a shampoo or conditioner formulation, although these limits are not absolute. The lower limit is determined by the minimum level to achieve conditioning and the upper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair and/or skin unacceptably greasy.

We have found that a total amount of silicone of from 0.3 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 3 percent by weight of the composition is a suitable level in a shampoo or conditioner formulation.

The viscosity of silicones and silicone emulsions can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set out further in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM004, July 20 1970.

In compositions comprising silicone, it is preferred that a suspending agent for the silicone also be present. Suitable suspending agents are as described hereinabove.

Non-silicone Oily Conditioning Components Compositions according to the present invention may also comprise a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily conditioning agent.

This component will be dispersed in the composition in the form of droplets, which form a separate, discontinuous phase from the aqueous, continuous phase of the composition. In other words, the oily conditioning agent will be present in the shampoo composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Suitably, the D3, 2 average droplet size of the oily conditioning component is at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.8, and more preferably at least 1 m. Additionally, the D3, 2 average droplet size of the oily conditioning component

is preferably no greater than 10, more preferably no greater 8, more preferably no greater than 5, yet more preferably no greater than 4, and most preferably no greater than 3. 5 J. m.

D3,2 droplet size can be measured suitably using light scattering techniques in apparatus such as a Malvern Mastersizer.

The oily conditioning agent may suitably be selected from oily or fatty materials, and mixtures thereof.

Oily or fatty materials are preferred conditioning agents in the shampoo compositions of the invention for adding shine to the hair and also enhancing dry combing and dry hair feel.

Preferred oily and fatty materials will generally have a viscosity of less than 5 Pa. s, more preferably less than 1 Pa. s, and most preferably less than 0.5 Pa. s, e. g. 0. 1 Pa. s and under as measured at 25°C with a Brookfield Viscometer (e. g. Brookfield RV) using spindle 3 operating at 100 rpm.

Oily and fatty materials with higher viscosities may be used. For example, materials with viscosities as high as 65 Pa. s may be used. The viscosity of such materials (i. e. materials with viscosities of 5 Pa. s and greater) can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set out further in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM004, July 20 1970.

Suitable oily or fatty materials are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.

Hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated), and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated). Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms.

Branched chain hydrocarbon oils can and typically may contain higher numbers of carbon atoms. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C2-C6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above for straight chain hydrocarbons in general. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain length. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 2000, preferably from about 200 to about 1000, more preferably from about 300 to about 600.

Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Exemplary branched-chain isomers are highly branched saturated or unsaturated alkanes, such as the permethyl-substituted isomers, e. g. , the permethyl-

substituted isomers of hexadecane and eicosane, such as 2, 2,4, 4,6, 6,8, 8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane and 2,2, 4, 4,6, 6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane, sold by Permethyl Corporation. A further example of a hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as the copolymer of isobutylene and butene.

A commercially available material of this type is L-14 polybutene from Amoco Chemical Co. (Chicago, Ill., U. S. A.).

Particularly preferred hydrocarbon oils are the various grades of mineral oils. Mineral oils are clear oily liquids obtained from petroleum oil, from which waxes have been removed, and the more volatile fractions removed by distillation. The fraction distilling between 250°C to 300°C is termed mineral oil, and it consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons ranging from C16H34 to C21H44. Suitable commercially available materials of this type include Sirius M85 and Sirius M125, all available from Silkolene.

Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols, e. g. , monocarboxylic acid esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di-and tricarboxylic acid esters. The hydrocarbyl radicals of the fatty esters hereof can also include or have covalently bonded thereto other compatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties, such as ethoxy or ether linkages.

Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R'COOR in which R'and R independently

denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R'and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20.

Specific examples include, for example, alkyl and alkenyl esters of fatty acids having aliphatic chains with from about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms, and alkyl and/or alkenyl fatty alcohol carboxylic acid esters having an alkyl and/or alkenyl alcohol-derived aliphatic chain with about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms, benzoate esters of fatty alcohols having from about 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

The monocarboxylic acid ester need not necessarily contain at least one chain with at least 10 carbon atoms, so long as the total number of aliphatic chain carbon atoms is at least 10. Examples include isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, dihexyldecyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, and oleyl adipate.

Di-and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used. These include, for example, esters of C4-Cg dicarboxylic acids such as C1-C22 esters (preferably C1-C6) of succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, and octanoic acid. Examples include diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate, and diisopropyl sebacate. Other specific examples include isocetyl stearoyl stearate, and tristearyl citrate.

Polyhydric alcohol esters include alkylene glycol esters, for example ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono-and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol mono-and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono-and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol monooleate, polypropylene glycol monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, polyglycerol poly-fatty acid esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters and mono-, di-and triglycerides.

Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di-and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri- esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C1-C22 carboxylic acids. A variety of these types of materials can be obtained from vegetable and animal fats and oils, such as coconut oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, lanolin and soybean oil. Synthetic oils include triolein and tristearin glyceryl dilaurate.

Specific examples of preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.

Other examples of suitable materials include sucrose polyester oils such as sucrose erucate (commercially available under the trade names Surfhope SE C2101 or C2102).

The oily or fatty material is suitably present in shampoo or conditioner compositions at a level of from 0.05 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, more preferably from about 0.5 to 3 percent by weight of the composition.

The compositions of this invention preferably contain no more than 3 wt% of a styling polymer, more preferably less than 1% of a styling polymer, preferably contain less than 0.1% by weight a styling polymer, and optimally are free of styling polymer.

In hair treatment compositions containing a conditioning agent, it is preferred that a cationic polymer also be present.

Mousses Hair treatment compositions in accordance with the invention may also take the form of aerosol foams (mousses) in which case a propellant must be included in the composition. This agent is responsible for expelling the other materials from the container and forming the hair mousse character.

The propellant gas can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers. Examples of suitable propellants include dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane and isobutane, used singly or in admixture.

The amount of the propellant gases is governed by normal factors well known in the aerosol art. For hair mousses, the level of propellant is generally from 3 to 30,

preferably from 5 to 15 percent by weight of the total composition.

Small quantities of surfactant ranging anywhere from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to about 1 percent by weight of the composition, for example 0.3 percent by weight of the composition may be present in the hair mousse compositions of the invention. The surfactant may be an anionic, nonionic or cationic emulsifier. Particularly preferred are nonionic emulsifiers which are formed from alkoxylation of hydrophobes such as fatty alcohols, fatty acids and phenols.

Hair Oils and Lotions Hair oils are also suitable conditioning compositions according to the invention. Hair oils are predominantly comprise water-insoluble oily conditioning materials as described herein. Lotions are aqueous emulsions comprising water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Suitable surfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stability to phase separation.

Adjuvants The compositions of the present invention may also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 percent by weight of the total composition.

Among suitable hair care adjuvants, are:

(i) natural hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids may be added singly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e. g. di-and tripeptides. The amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added singly or in the form of, e. g. fruit extracts.

A particularly preferred combination of natural hair root nutrients for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose. A particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine.

(ii) hair fibre benefit agents. Examples are: - ceramides, for moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity. Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide is Ceramide II, ex Quest.

Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as Ceramides LS, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques.

Mode of Use The compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and/or scalp of a human

subject, either in rinse-off or leave-on compositions, to improve hair fibre surface properties such as smoothness, softness, manageability, cuticle integrity, and shine.

The invention will now be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting examples: Examples Premix A Premix A is a single phase blend prepared by mixing 5% by weight of 4-n-pentyl-4'-cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material with 95% by weight of sunflower oil.

Example 1 Example 1 is a comparative example of a conditioner comprising 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson), 3% sunflower oil and water to 100%. The sunflower oil was added to the base after the Lß gel had formed at 40°C.

Example A Example A is a conditioner according to the invention.

Example A comprises 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson), 3% Premix A and water to 100%. The Premix A was added to the base after the L gel had formed at 40°C.

The examples 1 and A were assessed for their effect on the wet combing force on hair switches. Results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 Example 1 Example A Wet Combing Force 71. 6 65. 1 Example 2 Example 2 is a comparative example of a conditioner comprising 1.67% behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3. 33% Laurex CS and water to 100%.

Example B Example B is a conditioner according to the invention, comprising 1.67% behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3. 33% Laurex CS, 0. 2% 4-n-pentyl-4'-cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material and water to 100%. The mesogen was premixed with the Laurex CS and the behenyltrimethylammonium chloride then the premix was then dispersed water at a temperature greater than 80°C prior to cooling to room temperature.

The examples 2 and B were assessed for their effect on the wet combing force on hair switches. Results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Example 2 Example B Wet Combing Force 81.6 74.6 Example 3 Example 3 is a comparative example of a conditioner comprising 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson), and water to 100%.

Example C Example C is a conditioner according to the invention comprising 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson), 0. 25% 4-n- pentyl-4'-cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material and water to 100%. The mesogen was premixed with the Laurex CS and the premix was then added to the cetyltrimethylammonium chloride in water.

The examples 3 and C were assessed for their effect on the wet combing force on hair switches. Results are shown in Table 3.

Table 3 Example 3 Example C Wet Combing Force 81.9 75.9

Example 4 Example 4 is a comparative example of a hair oil which consists solely of sunflower oil.

Example D Example D is a hair oil according to the invention consisting of 5% 4-n-pentyl-4'-cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material dispersed in sunflower oil.

Examples 4 and D were applied directly to identical hair switches which were than subjected to paired comparison testing by trained panellists for smoothness and ease of combing. Table 4 shows the results obtained in terms of the percentage of votes for which example was preferred in the paired comparison.

Table 4 Example 4 Example D Ease of Comb 32% 68% Smoothness 29% 71% In a second set of paired comparison tests for examples 4 and D, the oils were applied to hair switches which were subsequently shampooed prior to assessment by the panel for preferred characteristics when wet, and after drying. The results are shown in Table 5.

Table 5 Example 4 Example D Wet Smoothness 39% 61% Wet Ease of Combing 42% 58% Wet Most Slippy 25% 75% Dry Smoothness 29% 71% Dry Ease of Combing 32% 68% In each case, it can be seen that the compositions according to the invention provide conditioning benefits over the comparative examples