IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO CREASE RECOVERY IN TEXTILES

The present invention relates to textile materials having improved crease recovery. More particularly, the present invention relates to textile material comprising natural fibers (particularly cotton) having improved crease recovery.

The use of an article made from a textile material can cause creases to appear on the article's surface. In the case of a garment, particularly natural fiber-based garments, wear and especially laundering of the garment can give rise to creasing and consequently an undesirable appearance. Cotton fibres consist of crystalline and amorphous regions, and after mechanical forces, the crystalline chains can be dislocated easily and only weak hydrogen bonds and van der Waals hold the polymer chains in place.

To alleviate the problem, a variety of methods exist to remove creases once they have been formed, such as by ironing and pressing, and methods to try to avoid creasing, such as closely monitored tumble drying.

Whilst these well-known methods seek to address the problem once creasing has occurred, manufacturers have sought to avoid the formation of creases by modifying the textile material composition and/or adjusting the process of manufacturing the textile material to seek to impart crease resistance and/or applying a protective coating to the yarn used to form the textile material or the finished textile material itself. One approach has been to seek to try to give a textile material a durable press (DP) coating such that the textile materials have reduced crease formation and/or the ability to relatively easily remove the creases with minimal effort. Textile materials can be accredited with a DP rating to give an indication of its crease recovery. To determine a textile materials' DP rating, the textile material is hung up and put in a dark room on a lighted screen and the creases are compared visually against DP rating certified photographs, the DP rating scale being 1-5, where a DP rating of 1 is indicative of poor crease recovery, 3 being labelled so-called 'easy care', and 3.5+ being labelled 'non-iron' having excellent crease recovery. Examples of known durable press coatings involve the application of a chemical coating to the surface of the textile material. These coatings typically include a cross-linking agent and catalyst such that cross-links between the agent and the polymer in the fibers of the textile material form. By introducing crosslinks, the fibre/fabric can develop a "memory" and the fabric remembers its crease free shape.

Moist crosslinking is an example of treatment of textile material to seek desirable crease recovery characteristics. Moist crosslinking is where the textile material is cured in a moist, partially swollen state (about 6 -12 % residual moisture) also known as moisture cure. The textile material is padded with a liquor containing a mineral-acid catalyst in addition to the crosslinker. The textile material is subsequently dried to a residual moisture content of 6 -12 %. After being batched for one or two days at a temperature of 25 - 35 °C, the textile material is washed, neutralized and dried. Afterwards it is usually further treated with handle-finishing agents. It is difficult to maintain the exact conditions required by the process, such as residual moisture content and batching temperature. That said, the resulting textile material exhibits desirable characteristics. This treatment works particularly well on woven fabrics that have a texture, such as twills and herringbones but less effective for the basic flat poplin weave which is more tight and rigid. Wet crosslinking is another example of treatment of textile material to seek desirable crease recovery characteristics. The process is infrequently used, despite being an easier process to control when compared to moist crosslinking, as the textile material is treated whilst in a wet, fully swollen state, because the dry crease recovery is marginally betterthan untreated cotton textile materials. A strong mineral acid is applied to the wet textile material and the textile material is rotated for about 20 hours at room temperature. The textile material is then washed, dried, neutralized and repeatedly dried increasing the cost of the process considerably.

Postcure treatment of the textile material is also known where the textile material is treated as in a standard dry crosslinking process but not cured. The treated textile material is subsequently used to form garments and provided with crease lines or pleats by a steam press before being oven-cured. Earlier permanent-press methods suffer from disadvantages such as, for example, increased formaldehyde formation and changes to textile material colour due to the presence of high levels of catalyst.

Alternatively, the textile material may be subjected to a precure process where blended wovens of synthetic and cellulosic fibres are provided with permanent creases. In the first step, the cellulosic component undergoes standard continuous resin-finishing by the dry crosslinking process. Once the finished garment has been made, its shape is set by heat setting the synthetic fibres at high temperature and under high pressure.

Other processes exist such as dip-drying where the textile material is made into garments, which are dipped to impregnate them with the finishing composition, centrifuged, dried, ironed and cured.

The use of these processes and chemical coatings to seek to impart crease recovery to a textile material require careful handling and can be relatively harsh. Other methods include incorporating synthetic fibers having elastic properties.

Natural textile materials, particularly cellulose-based polymer textile materials, can be difficult to treat to impart crease recovery. This is particularly true of closely woven textile materials such as fabrics with a poplin structure, which have a flat characteristic, particularly those using fine fibres such as NE 50s cotton or finer. Poplin's tight fabric structure provide the fibres very little room to recover from creases as the structure is very rigid.

Fabrics that are not as closely woven, such as twills and herringbones are easier to impart a high DP rating. This is because the crease recovery of less densely woven textile material is easier than more densely woven textile material, such as poplin, as the fibres can move between themselves and recover more easily in a tumble dryer.

Flat non-iron characteristics of a textile material may be achieved more easily when a finished article, such as a garment, is subjected to a process for applying a crease recovery composition in dip-drying. However such articles have less desirable characteristics. For example, garment dipped shirts are stiffer (as the coating is heavier), thicker (as the fibres used need to be thicker as the coating weakens the fibres hence garment dipped articles are heavier) and therefore less breathable and more uncomfortable to wear next to the skin. Furthermore, a non-iron garment that is garment dipped is generally more expensive than its textile material- treated counterpart.

Achieving a DP rating 3.5 or greater for poplin fabrics, when the treatment is applied at the fabric stage is extremely difficult, particularly those comprising cotton yarn counts NE 40 or finer, more preferably cotton yarn counts NE 50 or finer.

In accordance with the present invention there is provided, a textile material comprising natural fibers, having a poplin structure, crease recovery and a DP rating of at least 3.5. The treatment can be applied at the fabric stage, the material having "natural stretch" characteristics and may have been subjected to a moist cure process.

The textile material of the invention is suitable for use in a garment or may be part or all of a garment itself. The textile material may be woven (of which terms are intended to be covered by the generic term "textile material", as used herein) and preferably comprises a cellulosic fibre, such as cotton eg, in an amount of 50% to 100%, such as 75% to 100% for example, more preferably in an amount of 100% cotton. If the textile material contains less than 100% cellulosic fibres, the balance may be of any natural fibre.

Crease recovery can be measured according to AATCC 143-1996 (for garments) or AATCC-

124-2001 (for finished textile material). Using these testing protocols, the textile material of the present invention will advantageously have a durable press (DP) rating of at least 3.5, more preferably at least 4 -5 and most preferably at least about 4.5.

The textile material of the present invention may include cellulosic materials such as cotton, flax (linen), lyocell, ramie, bamboo, rayon, jute wool, silk and/or hemp or any combination thereof. The fibres of the textile material of the present invention may consist of one or more natural fibers. The one or more natural fiber may be selected from any one or more of the following: cotton, flax (linen), lyocell, ramie, rayon, bamboo, jute, wool, silk and/or hemp. Examples of natural textile material' s weave structure of the present invention may include, but not limited to poplin, herringbone, oxford, dobby, satin, sateen, pinpoint, end on end, basket weave, broken twill, jacquard and twill weaves. Preferably the weave structure is a poplin structure. Poplin is a strong cotton weave with closely woven threads in a simple criss cross pattern. The textile material is manufactured using a simple over/under weave pattern. This is a lightweight, cool weave with a smooth and silky finish. Poplin textile materials are very breathable. Other weaves include, herringbone which is a diagonal weave with a pattern resembling a reversing zig zag or a fish skeleton (which is where the name "herringbone" comes from). Herringbone has a smooth feel, textured warmth, a soft drape and occasionally a slight sheen. Twill is made by weaving twin horizontal threads under and over vertical threads to create a distinctive diagonal pattern. Twill textile material is soft and thick, resistant to creases and easy to iron. It also drapes very well.

Advantageously, the fibres of the textile material of the present invention exclude synthetic fibers. The linear density of the fibres with which the textile material is made may range from

Number English (NE) 30 to NE 300, preferably NE 40 to NE 300, most preferably NE 50 to NE 300. Preferably the fibres of the textile material comprise cotton yarns which have a count of NE 40 or finer, preferably NE 50 or finer, NE 60 or finer, NE 70 or finer, NE 80/2 or finer, or preferably NE 100/2 or finer. Advantageously, the linear density is NE 50 or NE 100/2. Preferably the textile material comprises compact yarns. Preferably the warp yarns comprise 2 ply cotton yarns. Preferably the weft yarns comprise 2 ply cotton yarns. Preferably the fabric does not contain any elastane fibres. The natural polymers of the textile material of the present invention may be cross-linked.

Cross-linking agents of the present invention include durable press (DP) finishes which may be commonly applied to cotton textile materials or textiles with a high content of cellulosic fibers. This finish provides resistance against wet shrinkage and imparts improved wet and dry wrinkle resistance and recovery to cellulosic textiles. Inhibition of the easy movement of the cellulose chains by introducing crosslinks between the polymer chains through the use of reactive crosslinkers, resins or reactant finishes imparts crease resistance and crease recovery properties to the cellulosic fabrics.

The cross-linking agent may comprise a DP finish or resin. DP finishes or resins include derivatives of urea such as urea-formaldehyde and melamine-formaldehyde may be used to impart crease resistant performance. In addition the hydroxy-(alkoxy)methyl compounds of ethylene urea, propylene urea, 5-methylpropylene urea and urea have been applied to cotton to improve easy care properties. Similarly the hydroxy(alkoxy)- methyl compounds of urone, 5,5-dimethylpropylene urea, carbamates and carboxylic acid amides have also been utilised.

In addition the hydroxy(alkoxy)methyl compounds of 4,5-dihydroxy-(alkoxy)ethylene ureas, 4,6-dihydroxy(alkoxy)-5,5-dimethylpropylene ureas, glyoxal-diureines and dimethylmalonic- dialdehydediureines have also been evaluated as DP finishes.

Preferably the DP finish is a formaldehyde-based urea derivative, typically dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) or l,3-dimethyl-4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU). Other methylolamide agents that have been used for producing crease resistance in cotton include the aforementioned urea-formaldehyde, dimethylolurea, dimethylolethyleneurea, and formaldehyde adducts of melamines (triazines), acetylenediurea, propyleneurea, uron, triazones, and alkyl carbamates.

Advantageously, the cross-linking can be performed with other DP finishes, such as formaldehyde-free compounds. Examples according to the present invention include, polycarboxylic acids, such as 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid, and citric acid. Alternatively reactive crosslinkers based on isocyanates, vinyl sulphones, epoxides and aziridines could be used.

This list is not exhaustive and the crosslinking agent and/or DP finish may contain any chemical that improves crease recovery to cellulosic textiles.

The textile material may have inherent elasticity, owing partly to the elasticity of the natural fibres and the manner in which the textile material is woven. Natural stretch as herein described is intended to encompass textile materials being elastically deformable without the need for incorporating synthetic fibers, such as, but not limited to, elastane fibres. In accordance with the present invention, the fabric has natural stretch in the weft direction. The natural stretch may, in part, be provided by the use of a wider loom weaving width. The natural stretch performance combined with the moist cure process, allows, in particular, poplin fabrics to have a dp rating of 3.5 or greater, as the added stretch provides the poplin fabric to be less rigid and have a greater memory of its original shape and recover more easily during the drying process of a finished article once it has been washed. Without the natural stretch characteristics, achieving a DP rating of 3.5 or greater in poplin fabrics, according to AATCC 143-1996 (for garments) or AATTCC 124-2001 (for finished textile material) that have been treated with a DP finish at fabric stage, is almost impossible. Textile material woven on a loom are comprised of warp and weft yarns which cross over and under each other. The warp constitutes the yarns which run lengthwise in the textile material, and the weft constitutes the yarns which run in the direction of the textile material's width. The over and under interlacing involves crimping of the yarns as the weaving takes place. The finished textile material of the present invention may have elasticity in the weft direction of at least 4%, preferably between 4% and 30%, more preferably between 5% and 20%, even more preferably between 7% and 20%, even more preferably still between 8%-20%, more preferably than that between 8% -18% and most preferably between 8%-16%. In order that stretch and recovery can be determined, textile material of the present invention was subjected to International Standard ASTM D 3107-07 using a 1.8kg weight for 30 minutes.

Bench marks of a known distance are made on a textile material specimen. A specified tension is applied to a textile material specimen by a prescribed technique and the resulting distance between bench marks while the specimen is under the tension is measured. The textile material stretch is calculated from the length difference between bench marks prior to application of the tension and while under the tension.

The textile material is preferably a poplin weave, 100% cotton, having a yarn count of NE 50x NE 50, (or NE 100/2x NE 100/2 or NE 100/2x NE 50 or NE 50 x NE 100/2). Preferably in the warp or weft yarn, the fabric comprises NE 50 cotton yarns, and/or NE 100/2 cotton yarns and/or NE 40 yarns and/or NE 80/2 cotton yarns. Preferably the textile material comprises compact yarns, or more preferably the cotton is made from extra-long staple (ELS) cotton fibres such as Egyptian cotton, Sea Island Cotton or Supima Cotton. The recognised industry standard for the minimum fibre length of an ELS cotton is 34.925mm which is significantly longer than traditional varieties of cotton, known as short staple, Upland cottons. Preferably the textile material comprises cotton yarns with a fibre length of greater than or at least 26mm, more preferably greater than or at least 27mm, more preferably greater than or at least 30mm, more preferably greater than or at least 31mm, more preferably greater than or at least 32mm, more preferably greater than or at least 33mm, more preferably greater than or at least 34mm, more preferably greater than or at least 34.925mm, more preferably greater than or at least 35mm, more preferably greater than or at least 36mm, more preferably greater than or at least 37mm, more preferably greater than or at least 37.5mm in length, preferably greater than or at least 38mm in length, more preferably greater than or at least 39mm in length and most preferably greater than or at least 40mm in length. It has been found in the present invention that a textile material comprising ELS cotton fibres along with natural stretch and treated with a cross-linking agent in accordance with the present invention followed by moisture cure gives the fabric an excellent DP rating of 3.5 or more. Preferably the textile material comprises cotton yarns in NE 50's count and/or NE 100/2 count with a fibre strength of at least 20cN/tex, more preferably at least 22cN/tex, more preferably at least 23cN/tex, more preferably at least 24cN/tex, more preferably at least 25cN/tex, more preferably at least 26cN/tex, more preferably greater than 26.5cN/tex, more preferably greater than 27cN/tex, more preferably greater than 28cN/tex, more preferably greater than 29 cN/tex and most preferably greater than 30cN/tex. The present invention may provide textile materials having improved resistance to tearing compared with textile materials produced using known methods using the same yarns that would otherwise be more susceptible to tearing owing to the treatment to impart crease recovery. The textile material of the present invention may have a dp of 3.5 or greater and weft yarns having NE 40 or finer, more preferably, NE 50 or finer.

The tear strength of the textile material of the present invention may be greater than conventional textile materials of the same yarn quality. Tear strength may be assessed using an 'Elmendorf (H.E. Messmer Ltd, Emendorf machine) tear strength tester in line with Marks and Spencer's test standard, P29: 2001 Tear Strength. A pendulum exerting a maximum force of 1631g (16000mN) may be used to assess tear strength in a textile material. The conditions are at standard room temperature and pressure. Preferably the tear strength of textile material in accordance with the P29 Marks and Spencer test standard and the present invention is at least 500g, preferably at least 550g, more preferably at least 600g, even more preferably at least 650g, more preferably still at least 675g, even more preferably at least 700g, even more preferably still preferably at least 750g and most preferably at least 800g. The warp and/or weft system may have a tear strength as set out above.

The weaving may be carried out on a loom being greater than 150cm wide, greater than 160cm wide, greater than 165cm wide, greater than 170cm wide, greater than 175cm wide, greater than 180cm wide, greater than 185cm wide, greater than 190cm wide. The finished width of the textile material in accordance with the present invention is preferably between 130cm to 180cm, more preferably between 135cm to 165cm, even more preferably between 140cm to 160cm, even more preferably still between 140cm to 155cm.

The ratio of the finished width of the textile material to the width of the loom may be between 1:1 and 1:2, preferably 1:1.1 to 1:1.5, more preferably 1:1.1 to 1:1.4, more preferably 1:1 to

1.3, most preferably 1:1.1 to 1:1.2 .

The textile material of the present invention may have a weight of between 90gsm and 160gsm, more preferably between 90gsm and 150gsm, more preferably between lOOgsm to 150gsm, more preferably between lOOgsm to 140gsm, more preferably between lOOgsm to

130gsm, more preferably between lOOgsm to 125gsm, more preferably between 105gsm to 150gsm, more preferably between 105gsm to 140gsm more preferably between 105gsm and 135gsm, more preferably between 105gsm and 130gsm, more preferably between 105gsm and 125gsm and most preferably between 105gsm and 120gsm The finished textile material of the present invention may comprise NE 50 yarns in the warp with NE 50 yarns in the weft, or NE 100/2 yarns in the warp with NE 50 yarns in the weft or NE 50 yarns in the warp with NE 100/2 yarns in the weft, or NE 100/2 yarns in the warp with NE 100/2 yarns in the weft, preferably with a warp fabric density of between 110 and 150 ends per inch and a weft density of 70 and 110 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 110 and 150 ends per inch and a weft density of 70 and 100 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 110 and 145 ends per inch and a weft density of 70 and 100 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 145 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 100 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 145 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 95 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 140 ends per inch and a weft density of 70 and 100 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 140 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 95 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 135 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 95 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 120 and 140 ends per inch and a weft density of 70 and 100 picks per inch , more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 120 and 140 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 100 picks per inch , more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 120 and 140 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 95 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 120 and 140 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 90 picks per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 120 and 135 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 95 picks per inch, and most preferably with a warp fabric density of between 120 and 135 ends per inch and a weft density of 75 and 90 picks per inch. The finished textile material of the present invention may comprise NE 50 yarns in the warp with NE 50 yarns in the weft, or NE 100/2 yarns in the warp with NE 50 yarns in the weft or NE 50 yarns in the warp with NE 100/2 yarns in the weft, or NE 100/2 yarns in the warp with NE 100/2 yarns in the weft, preferably with a weft fabric density of between 70 and 100 picks per inch, more preferably with a weft fabric density of between 70 and 90 picks per inch, more preferably with a weft fabric density of between 75 and 100 picks per inch, more preferably with a weft fabric density of between 75 and 95 picks per inch, more preferably with a weft fabric density of between 75 and 90 picks per inch, more preferably with a weft fabric density of between 78 and 90 picks per inch, and most preferably with a weft fabric density of between 78 and 88 picks per inch.

The finished textile material of the present invention may comprise NE 50 yarns in the warp with NE 50 yarns in the weft, or NE 100/2 yarns in the warp with NE 50 yarns in the weft, or NE 50 yarns in the warp with NE 100/2 yarns in the weft, or NE 100/2 yarns in the warp with NE 100/2 yarns in the weft, preferably with a warp fabric density of between 110 and 150 ends per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 150 ends per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 145 ends per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 140 ends per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 140 ends per inch, more preferably with a warp fabric density of between 115 and 135 ends per inch, and most preferably with a warp fabric density of between 120 and 135 ends per inch. In accordance with a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided an article comprising the textile material as described hereinabove.

The article may be a garment, such as a shirt, blouse, trousers, jeans, dress or bedlinen.

The majority of non-iron shirts are manufactured from so-called textured textile materials, such as a twill textile material. This is because the crease recovery of less densely woven textile material is easier than more densely woven textile material, such as poplin, as the fibres can move between themselves and recover more easily in a tumble dryer. In contrast, the present invention facilitates the treatment of finer-weave textile material such as poplin whilst maintaining the desired DP rating.

The finished textile material of the present invention may have a ratio of not greater than 1:2 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.9 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.8 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than l:1.7.for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.6. for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.5 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.4 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.35 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.33 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.3 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns, more preferably not greater than 1:1.25 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns and most preferably not greater than 1:1.2 for the number of pick yarns to the number of end yarns.

The ratio is determined by taking the finished textile material and cutting a square section and subsequently counting the number of end yarns and the number of pick yarns. In this regard, a pick is the yarn you put into as the weft (left to right) and an end is the yarn that goes in to make the warp (vertical).

In accordance with a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a textile material comprising the steps of:

a) weaving

b) applying a wicking finish

c) applying a cross-linking agent

d) moisture curing

and optionally,

e) applying a softener

The weaving may be carried out such that the space between adjacent warp yarns on the loom is wider than conventional textiles prior to subsequent processing. Preferably the width between warp yarns on the weaving loom is 4 - 20% wider, more preferably 4-15% wider, more preferably 5-10% wider, more preferably 5-8% wider and more preferably 6 - 8% wider than on a conventional loom width for producing non-natural stretch fabrics. The wicking finish may be a finish capable of rendering or maintaining a surface hydrophilic.

The wicking finish is preferably a finish that incorporates polar functional groups that are able to interact with polar liquids such as water, enabling wetting out. The wicking finish may be applied to the textile material in its fibre form, yarn form, fabric form prior to applying a cross-linking agent, prior to moist cure treatment and/or in combination with the cross-linking agent and/or on the fabric after moist cure treatment. Preferably a wicking finish is padded onto the fabric in a separate padding process prior to the addition of the cross-linking agent. Preferably there is a separate padding process of a wicking finish applied to the fabric and then dried prior to the padding of the cross-linking agent, such as a Urea Derivative. The wicking finish may also be applied to the textile material in its garment form. Preferably the wicking finish is padded on to the fabric or exhausted onto the fabric or garment dipped, but most preferably padded onto the fabric. It has been found that applying a wicking finish to the textile material and then drying it in a separate process prior the padding of the cross-linking agent, such as a urea derivative, and then a moist cure process improves the DP rating by up to 0.5 points.

The wicking finish may be a finish capable of rendering or maintaining a surface hydrophilic. The wicking finish is preferably a finish, which, when applied to a layer of textile material will maintain (if the textile material is already hydrophilic) or lower the contact angle of water on said layer, so that a water droplet will absorb into the textile material within 80 seconds, more preferably 70 seconds, more preferably 60 seconds, more preferably 50 seconds, more preferably 40 seconds, more preferably 30 seconds, more preferably within 20 seconds, more preferably within 15 seconds, more preferably within 10 seconds, more preferably within 5 seconds, more preferably within 3 seconds, and most preferably within 1 second.

The wicking finish may include a compound, e.g. a polymer, having one or more hydrophilic groups, which may be selected from, but are not limited to ethoxylated groups, amino groups, hydroxy groups and carboxylic acid groups. The amino groups may be selected from primary amino groups, secondary amino groups, tertiary amino groups and quaternary amino groups. WO 03097925, which is incorporated herein by reference, discloses wicking polymers, suitable for use as wicking finishes, which contain carboxyl groups, salts of carboxyl groups, or moieties that can be converted to carboxyl groups. WO 02059413 discloses protein sheaths, suitable for use as wicking finishes, which may be covalently bound to individual yarns or fibres to increase the hydrophilic nature of a textile material. In an embodiment, the wicking finish comprises a protein or polyamide, which may contain containing side groups selected from amino, carboxylic acid and hydroxyl. In an embodiment, the wicking finish comprises a carbohydrate, which may be selected from cellulose, chitin and alginates. In an embodiment, the wicking finish comprises a carbohydrate having one or more side groups selected from a hydroxyl, amino and carboxylic acid.

Preferably the wicking finish comprises a polysiloxane, preferably a hydrophilic polysiloxane. The polysiloxane may be an amino functional polysiloxane. The wicking finish may comprise a dialkylpolysiloxane, including, but not limited to dimethylpolysiloxane, which may include further functional groups in the polymer, including, but not limited to aminoalkyl groups. A polysiloxane may be termed a polyorganosiloxane herein. The wicking finish may comprise components E and/or F and/or a product which is formed by the chemical reaction between component E and component F, where component E is a polyorganosiloxane which comprises one or more amino groups and wherein component F is a polyorganosiloxane which is obtainable by reacting an unsaturated compound of the formula (I) or of the formula (II)

or a mixture of compounds of the formula (I) and of the formula (II) with a polysiloxane of the f or a mixture of such polysiloxanes, which may be in quantitative ratios such that the sum of the number of Si-H groups in the polysiloxanes of the formula (III) used is essentially just as great as the sum of the number of carbon-carbon double bonds and the number of carbon- carbon triple bonds in the compounds of the formula (I) and (II) used, where R ¹ is H or CH ₃ , all of the radicals R present, independently of one another, are hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, but where at least 2 of all of the radicals R present are hydrogen and where two radicals R bonded to the same silicon atom are not hydrogen at the same time, where m is a number from 10 to 50, n is a number from 0 to 20, preferably from 2 to

20,

where in each unit - one of the radicals R ⁷ and R ⁸ is hydrogen and the other is hydrogen or a methyl group.

The wicking finish and/or component E may comprise or be a polyorganosiloxane which comprises one or more amino groups. These may be primary and/or secondary amino groups. Such aminofunctional polyorganosiloxanes are known commercial products which can be obtained, inter alia, from the companies Wacker, Germany, and Dow Coming. Such aminofunctional polyorganosiloxanes can often already be commercially obtained in the form of aqueous dispersions. The amino groups of aminofunctional polyorganosiloxanes, e.g. in component E, are preferably located in side chains of the polysiloxane chain, but can also be bonded to the terminal silicon atoms of the chain.

Aminofunctional polyorganosiloxanes can be prepared by methods which are known to the person skilled in the art. One option involves, for example, reacting, via a known equilibrium reaction, linear and/or cyclic oligo- or polydialkylsiloxanes with silanes of the formula (VIII) in the presence of alkaline catalysts,

(R ⁵ )Si(OR ¹⁰ ) ₂ Z (VIII)

where Z has the meaning explained below,

R ⁵ is OH, OR ³ or is R ³ , where R ³ is an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and where

R ¹⁰ is CH ₃ or CH2-CH3.

A further option, likewise known from the literature, for preparing aminofunctional polyorgano-siloxanes involves adding polyorganosiloxanes which comprise Si-H bonds ("H- siloxanes") onto the C=C double bond of allylamines or allyl halides where, if using allyl halides, the halogen atom is then substituted by reaction with an amine.

Polyorganosiloxanes which are particularly highly suitable as component E have a structure according to formula (IV)

Z(R ³ )(R ² )Si— O— [Si(R ⁴ ) ₂ -0-]p [Si(R ⁵ )(Z)-0-] _q - Si(R ³ )(R ² )Z (IV) where the units -Si(R ⁵ )(Z)-0- and -Si(R ⁴ ) ₂ -0- present may be distributed arbitrarily over the polysiloxane chain,

where

the ratio p:q is in the range from 3:1 to 130:1, all of the radicals Z present, independently of one another, are R ³ or are a radical of the formula (V), but at least one of the radicals Z is a radical of the formula (V)

-T-(NR ⁹ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _S NR ⁹ R ⁶

(V)

where

all of the radicals R ² present are R ³ , but preferably are OCH ₃ , OC ₂ Hs or OH, s has the value 0, 1 or 2 and all of the radicals R ⁵ present are OH, OR ³ or R ⁴ , all of the radicals R ³ present are an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, all of the radicals R ⁴ present are R ³ or are a radical of the formula (VI),

-0-[Si(R ³ ) ₂ -0-] _u -[Si(R ³ )(Z)-0-] _w -Si(R ² )(R ³ )Z (VI) all of the radicals R ⁹ present, independently of one another, are hydrogen or are R ³ , all of the radicals R ⁶ present are hydrogen or are an alkyl radical having 1 to 12 carbon atoms or are a radical of the formula (VII),

-CH ₂ -CH2-(C=0)-0-(CH2-CH ₂ -0-)t-H

(VII)

where the ratio u:w is in the range from 3:1 to 130:1

and optionally where the values of p, q, u and w are chosen so that component E comprises, optionally on average, 50 to 800 silicon atoms,

where t is a number from 2 to 20,

where T is a divalent linear or branched alkylene radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, where some or all of the nitrogen atoms present in the radicals Z may be in quaternized form.

Particularly suitable components E are polysiloxanes of the formula (IV) in which all of the radicals Z present at the chain ends are a radical R ³ and at least one of the radicals Z which is located in units of the formula -Si(R ⁵ )(Z)-0- is a radical of the formula or of the formula -CH2-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -NH-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NH)-H

in which y has either the value 0 or 1. The wicking finish before application to the yarns or fibres may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion, and may comprise components E and/or F above, and, as a component G, water and, as a component H, an auxiliary which is chosen from the group which includes one or more dispersants, polyvinyl alcohol and guar meal (GuM) and mixtures of such products. The one or more dispersants which may be standard commercial surface-active products and may be otherwise known as surfactants. The one or more dispersants may be selected from non- ionogenic surfactants, such as ethoxylated alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids, are and cation- active surfactants, such as quaternary ammonium salts.

Instead of dispersants or in addition to them it is possible to use polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and/or guar meal (GuM) as auxiliary (component H). The auxiliary can also comprise PVA besides dispersant(s) and/or GuM or consist only of PVA. The PVA may have an average molecular weight in the range of from 25,000 to 100,000.

Besides dispersant(s) and/or PVA, the auxiliary can likewise also comprise GuM or consist only of GuM. GuM may be characterized by the following data: viscosity of a 1% solution at 25°C:

3.5 - 3.7 Pa-S (3500 - 3700 cP), average particle size: about 75 ^* 10 ⁶ m. GuM is commercially available, e.g. from Worlee-Chemie GmbH, Germany. Guar meal (GuM) is a product known from the literature, see e.g. "Rompp Chemie Lexikon", Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, 9th Edition, 1990, page 1666. PVA and GuM can bring about increased stability of the aqueous dispersion by acting as protective colloid.

Preferably, the wicking finish comprises an aminofunctional polyorganosiloxane having side groups of the formula or of the formula -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -NH-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NH)-H

in which y has either the value 0 or 1.

Preferably the wicking finish comprises an aminofunctional polyorganosiloxane having side groups and/or terminal groups comprising a quaternary ammonium group. In an embodiment, the aminofunctional polyorganosiloxane comprises quaternary ammonium groups and amino groups, wherein the amino groups are selected from primary, secondary and tertiary amino groups. The quaternary ammonium groups and amino groups, wherein the amino groups are selected from primary, secondary and tertiary amino groups, may be part of side groups and/or terminal groups of the aminofunctional polyorganosiloxanes. In an embodiment, the aminofunctional polyorganosiloxane comprises side groups comprising amino groups, wherein the amino groups are selected from primary, secondary and tertiary amino groups, and one or more terminal groups comprising a quaternary ammonium group. In an embodiment, the wicking finish comprises an aminofunctional polyorganosiloxane of the formula (X)

formula (X) wherein in formula (X) R ¹ comprises a quaternary ammonium group, R ² comprises an amino group, wherein the amino group is selected from a primary, a secondary and a tertiary amino group, and R3 comprises a group selected from H, an alkyl and an aryl group.

Optionally, in formula (X), wherein A is an anion, which may be an inorganic or organic anion,

n represents an integer from 1-20, preferably 1-14 and more preferably 1-5, m represents an integer from 20-2000, preferably 40-1000 and more preferably 40-120, o and p each represent an integer from 1-10 and preferably from 2-4, represents an integer from 1-10 and preferably represents an integer from 1-18 and preferably s represents an integer from 2-3 and preferably 2, and t represents an integer from 2-5 and preferably 2-4, optionally with the proviso that the total nitrogen content is in the range from 0.05 to 2.0 percent by weight. In an embodiment, before application to the yarns or fibres, the wicking finish may comprise an aqueous composition, optionally an aqueous emulsion, comprising an aminofunctional polysiloxane which is optionally an aminofunctional polyorganosiloxane, an emulsifier, optionally a hydrotrope and water.

In an embodiment, before application to the yarns or fibres, the wicking finish may comprise or be in the form of a composition comprising

(1) 2 to 60 wt% of an aminofunctional polysiloxane, optionally an aminofunctional polyorganosiloxane, which may be as described herein, e.g. of the formula (X),

(2) 2 to 40 percent by weight of an emulsifier,

(3) 0 to 15 percent by weight of a hydrotrope, and

(4) 20 to 95 percent by weight of water.

The anion A may be derived from inorganic or organic acids. Examples of inorganic anions include chloride, bromide, iodide and sulphate; chloride and sulphate are preferred. Examples of organic anions are tosylate and acetate; tosylate is preferred.

As mentioned above, in an embodiment, before application to the yarns or fibres, the wicking finish may comprise an aqueous composition or aqueous emulsion. The aqueous emulsion may comprise an emulsifier. The emulsifier may be selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric emulsifiers or surfactants or mixtures thereof. The emulsifier may be termed a dispersant herein. In an embodiment, the emulsifier comprises ethoxylation products of aliphatic alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms which contain up to 50 mol of ethylene oxide in adducted form. The alcohols may preferably contain 8 to 16 carbon atoms; they can be saturated, linear or preferably branched and can be used alone or mixed. Optionally, the alcohols of the composition are formed from ethylene oxide and 1, 2-propylene oxide in random distribution and preferably in block distribution. The nonionic emulsifiers may be selected from ethoxylated branched aliphatic alcohols. The nonionic emulsifiers may be selected from ethoxylates of 2, 6, 8-trimethyl-4-nonanol, of isodecyl alcohol or of isotridecyl alcohol each with 2 to 50 molecules and especially 3 to 15 molecules of adducted ethylene oxide. The hydrotrope may be selected from polyfunctional alcohols. The hydrotrope may be selected from dialcohols having 2-10, preferably 2-6 but especially 2-4 carbon atoms per molecule, and mono- and diethers and also the mono- and diesters of these dialcohols. The hydrotrope may be selected from butyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. The wicking finish may comprise a protein silicone co-polymer. The protein component of the protein silicone co-polymer may be a protein derived from a source selected from an animal and a vegetable. The protein may be selected from collagen, elastin, keratin, casein, wheat protein, soya protein and silk. The protein may be a native protein or a hydrolysed protein. The protein may be selected from peptides, polypeptides and peptones. The silicone component may be ethoxylated.

Softeners act as fiber lubricants and reduce the coefficient of friction between fibers, yarns, and between a fabric and an object (an abrasive object or a person's hand). Whenever yarns slide past each other more easily, the fabric may be more pliable and have better drape. If some of the lubricant transfers to the skin and the fabric is more pliable, the fabric may feel soft and silky. In addition to aesthetics (drape and silkiness), softeners may improve abrasion resistance, increase tearing strength, reduce sewing thread breakage and reduce needle cutting when the garment is sewn.

The viscosity of softeners can range from water like (machine oil) to semisolids (waxes). Softeners reduce coefficient of friction and therefore are effective in overcoming sewing problems, improving tear, and improving abrasion resistance. However the lower viscosity oils impart the most soft silky feel and improve drape.

The softeners of the present invention may comprise one or more anionic, cationic and/or non-ionic compound.

Anionic softeners and/or surfactant molecules may have a negative charge on the molecule which come from either a carboxylate group (-COO-), a sulfate group (-0S03-) or a phosphate group (-P04-). The anionic softener may comprise sulfates, sulfonates, phosphates, and/or carboxylates.

The softeners may comprise fatty alcohol sulfates, such as sulfated fatty alcohols and sulfated ethoxylated fatty alcohols, sulfated fatty acid esters, sulfated triglycerides

The softener may comprise Turkey Red Oil which is a sulfated castor oil. Ricinoleic acid, the major acid in castor oil has both a hydroxyl group at the C12 position and a C=C at the C9 position. Both of these groups are converted to sulfate ester linkages so castor oil can have a degree of substitution up to 6.

Suitable sulfated fatty acid esters include methyl, propyl, butyl and stearyl esters of oleic and linoleic acids are the usual starting materials. The degree of sulfation can be controlled by the unsaturated fatty acid.

Sulfonates for use in the present invention sulfoethyl fatty esters (IGEPON A) such as isethionic acid. Other sulfonates include sulfoethyl fatty amides (IGEPON) such as fatty acid taurate.

Cationic softeners include an amine or quaternary ammonium salt.

Amine functional cationic softeners of the present invention may be converted from fatty acids to mono and difatty amines. These intermediates can function either as softeners or be used to make other derivatives. A second method of making aminofunctional molecules is to make aminoesters or animoamides of fatty acids.The amines of the present invention include primary fatty amines, difatty amines, fatty diamines cationic amine salts, fatty amino esters, fatty amidoamides, ethylene diamine, N,N-diethylethylene diamine and diethylene triamine, tallow aminoamides, coco aminoamides.

The aminoamides may be neutralized with a variety of acids and the salt used. Acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and citric acid salts of many of them are commercially available for use as softeners. The acid salts are water soluble or water dispersible making them much easier to use

The softener may comprise an imidazoline.

Tallow amines may be used as a softener in accordance with the present invention. Both ditallowdimethylammonium chloride and corresponding sulfate salts may be used and imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts are softeners for use in the present invention. Cationic softeners impart very soft, fluffy, silky hand to most all fabrics at very low levels of add-on. Cationics will exhaust from dyebaths and laundry rinse baths making them very efficient materials to use. Cationics improve tear resistance, abrasion resistance and fabric sewability. Nonionic softeners can be divided into three subcategories, ethylene oxide derivatives, silicones, and hydrocarbon waxes based on paraffin or polyethylene. The ethylene oxide based softeners, in many instances, are surfactants, and can be tailored to give a multitude of products. Hydrophobes such as fatty alcohols, fatty amines and fatty acids are ethoxylated to give a wide range of products. Silicones too can be tailored to give several different types of products. Polyethylene wax emulsions, either as high density or as low density polymers, may be used.

Nonionic softeners include polyethylene emulsions. When the emulsion is applied to fibers, a waxy coating deposits on the surface reducing its coefficient of friction. These coatings offer good protection against needle cutting and thread breakage and improve abrasion resistance and tearing strength.

A polyethylene emulsion may comprise polyethylene wax 20%, emulsifier 5%, KOH 0.5% and water 74.5%.

The nonionic softener may comprise one or more polyethylene glycolated hydrophobe.

The softener may comprise a silicone. The silicone may comprise one or more polysiloxane polymer.

Silicone polymers based on emulsified dimethyl fluids may be used as a softener in accordance with the present invention. Another variety in accordance with the present invention is based on emulsified reactive fluids having Si-H groups dispersed throughout the polymer. A third variety in accordance with the present invention has amino or epoxy functional groups located on the polymer backbone.

Dimethyl fluids derived from dimethyldichloro silane may be used as a softener in accordance with the present invention. Other softeners include, methylhydrogendichlorosilane, amino functional silicones, and/or epoxy functionalised silicone polymers.

The softener may comprise any suitable composition such as a silicone finish, preferably a wheat silicone copolymer. The softener may be a wicking finish.

The method of the present invention may require the application of a softener.

The present invention will now be described, by way of example only with reference to the accompanying example and drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 shows a schematic of the process steps for manufacturing a textile material in accordance with the present invention.

Fig. 1 shows the process steps which begin with yarn scouring 10 to clean the yarn. The yarn is subsequently bleached and/or dyed to impart the desirable colour. The yarns are then sized typically with substances such as starch or polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) to impart improved strength for subsequent weaving, Warping 30.

So as to impart improved natural stretch without the need to use synthetic fibres particularly elastane fibres in the textile material having greater elasticity than their natural counterpart, the yarn is woven on a wider than average loom, Weaving 40. The yarn is woven with the same number of warp yarns but are spaced further apart than a conventional loom. The resulting textile material has a wider dimension than conventional textile material woven on a conventional loom and there are larger spaces between strands at this stage of the process. For example, a poplin textile with a yarn count of NE 50 in the warp, weaved on a weaving loom of 169cm finished at a final width of 146cm - therefore for the finished textile material in every centimetre wide there would be 6900/146cm= 47 ends per cm however there is very little room to move between the fibres as the weft yarn had very little space when weaving to wrap around the warp yarn or vice versa reducing its ability to elongate. Taking the same textile material but weaved on a weaving loom of 180 cm with 6900 ends - the textile material is also finished at a final width of 146cm - the finished textile material would, in every centimetre width, have 6900/146= 47 ends per cm however in this instance the textile is able to enlongate further in the weft direction and there is improved natural stretch as there is more length to the weft yarns enabling them to stretch further than their conventionally woven counterparts. The elasticity of the textiles of the present invention is therefore increased in the weft system.

During elongation of the woven textile material, crimp is interchanged between the threads of the two systems, namely the warp and weft systems. The crimp decreases in the direction in which force is applied to cause elongation, however, it increases in the perpendicular direction.

Crimp ratio is the ratio of yarn length to the woven textile material length produced from that yarn. When load is applied to the woven textile material in one direction there is a change in the ratio of the crimp of the weft and warp system: this change is referred to as crimp interchange. In the present invention, the crimp ratio of the weft system is preferably higher than conventionally manufactured woven textile materials as the yarn length is greater despite the finished material length being substantially the same. The crimp ratio of the warp system is preferably substantially the same as conventionally manufactured woven textile materials and so during elongation in the weft system, the material is able to elongate more easily and with less risk of extending beyond its elastic limit and thus being able to recover its original shape. The textile material is subjected to Singeing 50 whereby any protruding fibres in woven textile are removed by burning to provide a smoother finish to the textile. This can be done by passing the textile over a flame or heated metal plates. Singeing improves the surface appearance of the woven textile and reduces pilling. Immediately after singeing, the textile enters a water bath to be washed and desized 60 stopping any singeing afterglow or sparks that might damage the textile. Desizing will assist in removing starch material from the textile along with other impurities and make the textile more suitable and clean for the subsequent processing steps. The textile is then mercerised 70.

The mercerised textile is then treated with liquid ammonia 80 prior to exposure to the cross- linking agent. This prior treatment of the textile improves dimensional stability, handle and characteristics of the textile.

Subsequently, the textile is treated with a wicking finish 90, which is padded onto the surface of the textile. The wicking finish comprises a silicone and is in the presence of acetic acid, the composition being 30g/l of a wicking finish and 0.5g/l acetic acid. The textile is then dried on a stenter at 130°C between 50 -70 rpm.

Subsequently, the textile material is padded with a liquor containing a mineral-acid catalyst in addition to the crosslinking agent 95 as part of the moisture cure process 100. This is where the cross-linking agent is added to impart crease recovery, the composition comprising 210g/l modified N-methylol dihydroxyethylene urea 105 g/l sulphuric acid-based catalyst, and 30g/l of a wax solution,. Following drying at successively increasing temperatures, starting at 60 °C and ending at 90°C the textile is then moisture cured 100 for between 16 - 24 hours maintaining a residual moisture content of 6-12%.

Following the 16-24 hours of cross-linking the textile is then washed and neutralised with acetic acid. The textile is washed at between 50 - 75 °C and subsequently dried at temperatures up to 100 °C. Preferably the fabric is not dried in excess of 100 °C as it is found this can increase formaldehyde levels and weaken the fabrics.

Finally, a top finish 110 is applied to the textile whereby a softener, preferably a silicone softener, is padded onto the textile. The top finish could be a hydrophobic softener. Preferably the top finish is a wicking finish. The silicone softener is preferably a protein silicone copolymer, 60g/l of a wheat silicone copolymer together with 0.5g/l acetic acid. The textile is subsequently dried below 100 °C at the set finished width.