Jewelry setting for detachable ornament and jewelry comprising such setting

Field of the invention

This invention relates generally to settings for precious stones or similar ornaments in jewelry. More particularly it relates to jewelry settings for detachable and exchangeable mounting of such ornaments in a piece of jewelry.

Background of the invention

A number of different gemstone settings of widely varying designs are known in the art. These settings are used to confine and fix precious stones or similar ornaments to a piece of jewelry. The settings are made of more or less intricately shaped holding parts which typically require substantial skill of the jeweler, rendering the setting process time consuming and expensive. Traditionally the setting comprises a base with a number of protrusions extending upwardly from the base, with the protrusion ends folding back over the stone or ornament to confine it. The number of protrusions and their distribution depends on the size and shape of the stone.

Such ornament settings and similar commonly used settings typically require skill and specialized equipment to properly mount the ornament to the piece of jewelry. Hence, the detachment and replacement of gems and ornaments from such settings are difficult, rendering jewelry comprising such settings static in nature. In addition, for design and aesthetic reasons, the visible parts of protrusions or similar structures that fold over the stone and partially cover it may not be desirable.

It is known in the trade to mount precious stones or other ornaments to pieces of jewelry made in titanium in a gem setting that renders the perception of the gem hovering in the air. The gem setting comprises two ornament holders similar to wings which are connected through a base structure and face each other. On each of the inner mutually facing surfaces of the two ornament holders there is arranged a notch or groove designed to grip the precious stone or ornament. When an ornament of a suitable size is mounted, the ornament holders have to be prized open or levered apart to allow edges of the ornament to slip into the groves whereupon the holding parts are released and spring back to press against the ornament. The ornament is dimensioned slightly to large for the ornament fitting such that

it is held in place through the grooves and by inwardly directed forces being executed by the ornament holders as they strive to return to their original position. This construction works for titanium gem settings since this is a material that is capable of storing the tensions that arise when the ornament holders are levered apart and thus elastically deformed. The construction requires special tools for mounting a gem and its use is restricted to materials that have a high capability of storing tension forces.

There is a demand for jewelry settings which allow for easy and safe detachment and exchange of stones or other ornaments to a piece of jewelry, primarily without any need for tools or special skills and that enables the use of a wide range of materials.

Related art

Examples of different replaceable gem stone settings presently existing in the jewelry field are found in the following publications.

Patent document US20050210920 Al describes a secondary, detachable and decorative ring which is intended to be coupled and placed about another finger-worn ring to enhance its appearance. The device consists of an O-shaped jacket that fits around the finger- worn ring's center stone by hinging open at one point and clasping shut on the opposite side. The jacket locks snugly to the center jewel, staying in place by pressure. The purpose of the secondary ring is to augment the center jewel and does not itself render the center gem stone replaceable.

Patent document US3653227 describes an interchangeable gem setting comprising two filiform circles contacting each other at a position secured in the piece of jewelry, and inclined so as to face each other with an angle. The diameter of the circles and their intermediary distance is smaller than the diameter of the gem to be mounted. The removability and retention of gem is rendered possible by the ability of the circles to be spread apart and spring back to encircle the gem and exert pressure against it.

Patent document US20010032481 Al describes a replaceable gem stone setting in which the gem stone is held in place by a casing and a hinged bottom cover.

Patent document FR2740948 Al describes a ring where a stone is held between two wings, where the wings comprise a rib and a notch for grasping the stone. A support is also placed at the base of the stone, by means of lower notches, to support the stone from beneath and prevent it from jiggling.

Patent document FR2870690 Al describes a jewel with a setting where the stone is held between two wings and a hinged support, supporting the stone from beneath.

Other examples of related art are found in the patent documents US20070095104 Al, GB2215181 A, DE20306830 Ul, US4800738 A and CH341345 A.

Object of the Invention

The overall object of the present invention is to provide a solution to the problem of providing a jewelry setting which enables easy and safe detachment and exchange of stones or other ornaments to a piece of jewelry made of a wide variety of materials.

An aspect of the problem is to provide such a jewelry setting that enables exchangeable ornaments in a piece of jewelry made in a soft metal, such as gold or silver.

Brief description of the drawings

The invention will be explained in more detail in the following description, referring to the enclosed figures, where:

Fig Ia and Ib show the jewelry setting according to two embodiments of the invention;

Fig 2 shows different pieces of jewelry comprising the setting according to examplifying embodiments of the invention.

Fig 3 shows a jewelry setting according to an alternative embodiment of the invention with a clamp ring having a hinge and a lock mechanism;

Fig 4 shows a jewelry setting according to an alternative embodiment of the invention with an open setting base.

Detailed description

Fig. Ia shows a jewelry setting 1 with two ornament holders 3a, 3b which are coupled to a setting base 2 of a piece of jewelry here exemplified by a ring. The ornament holders 3a, 3b each have an inner surface 4a, 4b and an outer surface 5 a, 5b. They are connected to the setting base 2 so that the inner surfaces 4a, 4b face each other. The inner surfaces 4a, 4b are arranged with ornament confining structures 6a, 6b, cavities that are shaped to hold the stone or ornament. The outer surfaces 5a, 5b comprise clamp ring confining structures 7a, 7b, grooves that are arranged to hold a clamp ring 8. The clamp ring 8 is a detachable ring of suitable material which is arranged to fit tightly around the ornament holders 3a, 3b when the ornament 10 is held in place by the ornament confining structures 6a, 6b.

The assembled jewelry setting 1 thus comprises ornament holders 3, ornament confining structures 6 on the inner surfaces 4 of the ornament holders, a stone or other ornament 10, which is grasped by the ornament confining structures 6, clamp ring confining structures 7 and a clamp ring 8, which can tightly encircle the ornament holders 3 and is held in place by the clamp ring confining structures 7. The stone or ornament is in a preferred embodiment confined to the piece of jewelry by combined shape locking functions and spring forces exerted by the ornament confining structures 6 and the clamp ring 8.

The setting in accordance with the invention works for soft materials that have a small elastic modulus and a short elastic range before entering into plastic deformation, such as gold or silver. In an example with a setting made in gold, the ornament holders are plastically deformed when they are levered apart to allow insertion of an ornament into the position intended for the ornament. The ornament holders are levered back into a position where they form a shape locking structure for the ornament. The clamp ring has a dimension in relation to the ornament holders such that it has to be elastically deformed when it is pulled over the ornament holders, and thereby tension forces are introduced and stored in the clamp ring. The clamp ring is positioned over and springs into the grooves of the holders, but still remains elastically tensed such that spring forces are exerted towards the ornament holders while the clamp ring is shape locked in position by the grooves.

Other combinations of highly elastic and less elastic materials in the clamp ring and the

ornament confining structure, respectively, are conceivable within the inventive concept. For example, the spring forces may instead or complementary be stored in the ornament holders in combination with a less elastic or non-elastic clamp ring.

In one embodiment, the ornament holders and the clamp ring are adapted to employ primarily a shape locking function. For example by the clamp ring having a shape and dimension freely fitting over the ornament holders in a first orientation, and shape locking in a second orientation for example after having been rotated.

The ornament holders 3 can be of a variety of shapes Their inner shape will depend on the shape of the stone or set of stones or other ornaments 10 that are to be used with the particular piece of jewelry and can e.g. be bowed, flat, v-shaped or have any other shape which matches the shape of the ornament. Their outer shape can be varied according to the desired appearance of the piece of jewel, but must be matched with the shape of the clamp ring 8. The number of ornament holders 3 is typically two but may also be varied in order to match the shape of the ornament or to create an attractive appearance. Additionally, the height of the ornament holders 3 can vary, but will typically be in the range of a millimeter to a couple of centimeters.

The ornament confining structures 6 are shaped to fit the edge or circumference of the desired ornament or set of ornaments 10. They may e.g. be made as indentations, such as recesses, grooves or notches, on the inner surface 4 of the ornament holders 3. Alternatively, they may be arranged as shoulders or elevations extending somewhat from the inner surfaces 4 of the ornament holders 3. In the latter case the ornament 10 will be supported from underneath by a lower elevation or other support structure, such as the setting base, and will be held in place from above by an upper elevation. In other embodiments the ornament confining structures 6 may comprise a combination of indentations and elevations.

The clamp ring confining structures 7 are shaped to fit the inner shape of the clamp ring 8. They may e.g. be made as indentations, such as recesses, grooves or notches, on the outer surface 5 of the ornament holders 3. Alternatively, they may be arranged as shoulders or elevations extending somewhat from the outer surface 5 of the ornament holders 3,

whereby the clamp ring 8 will be supported by a lower elevation or support and held in place by an upper elevation. In other embodiments the clamp ring confining structures 7 may comprise a combination of indentations and elevations.

The size of the clamp ring 8 is constrained in so far that it has to exert pressure on the ornament holders 3. Its inner shape must match the shape and arrangement of the ornament holders 3 as well as the shape of the clamp ring confining structures 7. Besides those constraints the clamp ring 8 can vary widely in shape and material, e.g. to create a desired aesthetic impression. The clamp ring 8 can e.g. be made of metal, rubber, wood, textile or tempered glass. Its outer shape can vary from round to oval to square, star shaped, flower shaped or any other shape. The clamp ring 8 may also be further decorated with e.g. precious stones or other decorations.

The ornament 10 may be any kind of ornament that creates the desired impression of the piece of jewelry. It may e.g. be a precious or gem stone, a semi-precious stone, a stone imitation, or any other ornament made of e.g. metal, wood, glass or any other synthetic or natural material. It must however have a circumferential shape that matches the ornament confining structures 6, so that it is firmly grasped by the confining structures 6 when the setting 1 is assembled.

The setting base 2, as well as the ornament holders 3, may be made of any metallic material suitable for jewelry. The setting base 2 and the ornament holders 3 may be made in one continuous piece or may be made of separate pieces, of the same or different material, attached to one another. The shape of the setting base 2 may also vary widely to suit different types of jewelry, e.g. a ring, bracelet, amulet or brooch. As is shown in Fig. Ia the setting base 2 may have the shape of a ring to be thread on a finger. In this case the setting base 2 has an open structure, wherein the part of the setting base 2 supporting the ornament holders 3, herein celled the perimeter structure, has a cut out between the ornament holders 3. This allows mutually facing sides of the base setting 2, as well as their corresponding ornament holders 3, to be levered apart and pushed together. In Fig Ia the setting base 2 is shaped to support ornament holders 3 that have a curved shape for holding a rounded (circular, oval, elliptic) ornament 10. As shown in Fig. 2c a setting base 2 with such an open structure may also have other designs, e.g. for supporting ornament holders 3

that have a straight or irregularly curved shape, for holding ornaments 10 that are e.g. square, heart shaped or any other shape.

The setting base 2 may e.g. also be arranged e.g. as a base plate, as for example shown in Fig. Ib and 2b. In both these examples the base plate has a ring shaped (circular) perimeter structure which is continuous between the ornament holders 3, i.e. a more closed structure. Other shapes are also conceivable, e.g. having a perimeter structure that is square, triangular or irregular for supporting ornament holders 3 that are to hold ornaments 10 that are e.g. square, heart shaped or any other shape.

Still another embodiment is shown in Fig. 4 with a setting base 2 having a base plate with an open structure, in similarity with the embodiment shown in Fig. Ia. The setting base 2 has a perimeter structure with a cut out between the ornament holders 3, allowing the base plate to be elastically widened, such that mutually facing sides of the setting base 2 and thus the base of the ornament holders 3 may be levered apart, and pressed together. Fig. 4a shows one embodiment of such a jewelry setting 1 from above, without the ornament 10 and clamp ring 8, where the setting base has a shape similar to a horse shoe. Fig. 4c shows the same setting 1 with the clamp ring 8 attached. Fig. 4b shows the jewelry setting 1 from the side, with the ornament 10 and without the clamp ring 8, and Fig 4d shows the same setting 1 with the clamp ring 8 attached.

Through this arrangement the ornament holders 3 may more easily be separated to make room for the ornament 10. In comparison with a setting base 2 having a closed base plate, such as in Fig. Ib, where only the top of the ornament holders 3 may be levered apart the arrangement with an open base plate also allows for the setting base 2 and thus the base of the ornament holders 3 to be bent apart. This embodiment also allows the ornament holders 3 to be narrowed by compressing the base plate 2 and narrowing the gap of the cut out. The resulting reduction in perimeter size facilitates the attachment and removal of the clamp ring 8 as it is pushed over or withdrawn from the ornament holders 3.

The jewelry setting 1 is assembled by placing an ornament 10 between the ornament holders 3, so that it is hooked by the ornament confining structures 6. While exerting inwardly directed pressure on the ornament holders 3, to prevent the ornament 10 from

falling out, the clamp ring 8 is pushed over and around the ornament holders 3. The clamp ring is placed in the clamp ring confining structures 7 to keep it in place and prevent it from being pushed off or from simply falling off. The clamp ring 8 will now exert an inwardly directed force on the ornament holders 3, further putting pressure on the ornament 10, such that it is held firmly in place by the ornament confining structures 6. To replace the ornament 10 the clamp ring 8 is withdrawn from the ornament holders 3, so that the pressure upon the holders 3 and thus the ornament 10 is removed, whereby the ornament 10 can be removed and replaced with another ornament as above.

Fig. 2 shows examples of jewelry with replaceable ornaments, comprising a jewelry setting. The examples are shown with the same reference numbers as in Fig 1, and as shown the ornament holders, the clamp ring and the ornament may have different shapes. Different kinds of jewelry include rings, pendants or amulets, bracelets and brooches. They may be made of any metal suitable for jewelry, such as gold, silver, titanium or different alloys, or even plastic materials. The ornament may be any kind of desired ornament, as described above.

In the embodiments shown in Fig. 1 and 2 the clamp ring 8 is a closed circle which is attached to the piece of jewelry by pushing it over the ornament holders 3. Fig. 3 shows an alternative embodiment where the clamp ring 8 need not be pushed over the ornament holders 3, but rather attached to the jewelry setting 1 from the side. Fig 3a shows a piece of jewelry from above and Fig 3b the same piece of jewelry from the side, before the ornament 10 and clamp ring 8 have been attached. As in the above exemplified embodiments the jewelry setting 1 comprises a setting base 2, ornament holders 3 and ornament confining structures 6 as well as clamp ring confining structures 7 arranged on the ornament holders 3. Fig. 3c shows a clamp ring 8 which is provided with a hinge 12 at one point and an opening with a lock mechanism 14 on the opposite side. The clamp ring is fastened to the jewelry setting 1 by encircling the ornament holders 3 and then closing the clamp ring 8 firmly around the holders 3 through the lock mechanism 14, as shown from above in Fig. 3d. The hinge 12 and the lock mechanism 14 can be designed in a variety of different ways known in the art, all of which could be used under for the present invention. The hinge and lock mechanism of the embodiment shown in Fig. 3 are merely examples and should not limit the scope of the invention.

In this embodiment, in order to provide the tension forces needed for keeping the ornament 10 firmly in place the clamp ring 8 and ornament holders 3 must, in accordance with the invention, be shaped and dimensioned to enable a combined shape locking and tension locking mating between the clamp ring 8 and the ornament holders 3. In particular, either the clamp ring 8 or the ornament holders 3, or both, are elastic such that when the clamp ring 8 is closed around the ornament holders 3, either the clamp ring 8 exerts an inwardly directed pressure against the ornament holders 3, or the ornament holders 3 exert an outwardly directed pressure against the clamp ring 8, or a combination of both. Thereby an ornament 10 placed between the ornament holders 3 is confined to the ornament setting 1 by combined shape locking functions and spring forces exerted by the ornament holders 3 and the clamp ring 8.

The jewelry setting 1 is in this case assembled by placing an ornament 10 between the ornament holders 3, so that it is hooked by the ornament confining structures 6. While exerting inwardly directed pressure on the ornament holders 3, to prevent the ornament 10 from falling out, the clamp ring 8 is then lead around the ornament holders 3 and placed in the clamp ring confining structures 7 and then closed in a firm and tight position around the ornament holders 3 by closing the loch mechanism 14. By having the clamp ring 8 in an open position during the assembly of the jewelry setting 1 the clamp ring 8 need not be pushed over the ornament holders 3. Thereby there is a lower risk of scratching the surface of the ornament holders 3, which will then have a smooth and shiny appearance for a longer period of time. In addition the attachment of the clamp ring 8 to the jewelry setting is facilitated. Although a closed clamp ring 8, as described in the embodiments above, may be elastic it still often requires considerable forces to be pushed over and around the ornament holders 3. By fastening the clamp ring 8 from the side such forces are not required, but the clamp ring 8 need merely be squeezed together as the lock mechanism 14 is closed.

It is to be understood that the described embodiments are merely illustrative examples of the present invention that can be combined and modified in various ways. Thus an open setting base 2 may, as an example, be combined with a clamp ring 8 which has a hinge 12 and can be attached from the side.