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Patent Searching and Data


Title:
MEASURING DEVICE AND METHOD OF PATTERN MAKING USING SAME
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2017/152220
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A measuring device (11) for measuring the cone angle corresponding to a portion of a curved surface at a selected datum location. The device (11) is deformable to conform to curved surfaces and includes means such as surface indicia and a cursor to measure cone angle at that location. In the preferred form the device is in a circular sheet form including a first measuring zone portion (21) to measure spherical surfaces having cone angles of less than 360 degrees, and a second measuring zone (22) for measuring complex hyperbolic surface regions having cone angles of more than 360 degrees. The invention also relates to a method of using the device (11) to create two dimensional patterns for the measured three dimensional form.

Inventors:
LIU MARK ZER-ERN (AU)
Application Number:
PCT/AU2017/050194
Publication Date:
September 14, 2017
Filing Date:
March 07, 2017
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
UNIV OF TECH SYDNEY (AU)
International Classes:
G01B3/56; A41H1/02; G01B5/24
Foreign References:
CN203873069U2014-10-15
US4307517A1981-12-29
CN204705283U2015-10-14
CN202003543U2011-10-05
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
SHELSTON IP PTY LTD (AU)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1 . A measuring device for measuring the cone angle corresponding to a portion of a curved surface at a selected datum location, the device including:

a surface contact element having a connected central point for positioning at the selected datum location, the central point defining a first axis of rotation passing there through, a first edge and a second edge, each edge extending generally radially outwardly along the surface contact element from a point adjacent the first axis to a peripheral edge of the surface contact element to enable rotational movement of the edges about the first axis and within planes through which the first axis extends, to form the surface contact element into at least a portion of a cone conforming to a selected portion of the curved surface at the selected datum location, the region between the first and second edges including a measuring zone,

a measuring cursor secured to the surface contact element between the first and second edges extending radially outwardly from the first axis, and means to measure the angular positioning of the cursor relative to the measuring zone to thereby measure the cone angle.

2. A measuring device according to claim 1 wherein the surface contact element is a sheet element.

3. A measuring device according to claim 1 or claim 2 configured to measure cone angles less than and greater than 360 degrees.

4. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the measuring zone includes indicia indicating degrees of at least a part of a circle about the first axis, the marking preferably commencing at zero from the measuring cursor.

5. A measuring device according to claim 4 wherein the cursor aligns with the first edge.

6. A measuring device according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the measuring zone and cursor may include electronic means to output a cone angle reading indicative of the position of the cursor relative to the measuring zone.

7. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the device has a generally flat circular overall shape when not in use, with the cursor extending along a radius of that circle and the measuring zone extends in an annular configuration at a location radially offset from the first axis.

8. A measuring device according to claim 7 wherein the device includes indicia marked in an annular configuration at a location radially offset from the first axis.

9. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the measuring zone includes a first portion for measuring cone angles less than 360 degrees, and a second portion, contiguous with the first portion, for measuring cone angles in excess of 360 degrees.

10. A measuring device according to claim 9 wherein the first and second portions of the measuring zone overlap in the flat unused state in a helical like arrangement.

1 1 . A measuring device according to claim 10 wherein which is effectively unwound to increase exposed surface area when measuring a hyperbolic cone angle of greater than 360 degrees, and wound up to increase the overlap and decrease the exposed area when measuring a spherical surface cone angle.

12. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the device is at least partially translucent or transparent.

13. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the first and second edges are virtual edges connected by a flexible web portion which allows the edges to move in a relative fashion as claimed.

14. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the device includes means to temporarily secure the device to a cone angle being measured.

15. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims including handle means to enable remote positioning on the contoured surface to be measured.

16. A measuring device according to any one of the preceding claims including linear measurement means to facilitate measurement from a selected boundary datum on or adjacent the curved surface to the first axis.

17. A method of creating a two dimensional pattern based on measuring a curved surface using the device according to the first aspect of the invention, the method including the steps of:

positioning the device with its central point at a selected high point or low point on the curved surface and adjusting same by rotation of the first and second edges about the first axis and within planes through which the first axis extends such that a selected portion of the surface contact element conforms to that surface and measuring the resulting cone angle indicated at the measuring cursor;

orientating the device so that the cursor extends in the direction in which corresponds to the region where a dart is to be formed or a gusset inserted;

taking a series of measurements from the centre of the device along a measured angle from the cursor to predetermined boundary points on the curved surface; and

creating a corresponding pattern by marking a point on a two dimensional sheet corresponding to a dart or gusset apex, extending the lines defining the dart of gusset angle which is the measured cone angle less 360 degrees to the measured length to the adjacent boundary at that point, and progressively plotting the remaining angle and length

measurements, and joining the distal ends of these measurements to define the remaining pattern, wherein if the cone angle is less than 360 degrees, a dart region is provided from which material is excluded and if the cone angle is more than 360 degrees a gusset region is defined to which additional material is provided.

18. A method according to claim 17 for generating patterns for curved shapes where the curvature is constantly changing, whereby a line is defined along the apex of the complex curve and the device is progressively moved to spaced apart points along that line, and at each point the method above is applied and a pattern is created with the various determined dart and/or gusset regions being provided at the ends and between interconnecting regions.

19. A method of producing complex seam patterns where the pattern extends across the apex line of a curve, using the method of claim 18, further including the steps of:

dividing the contour line of the complex curve with straight lines to show the locations of apex points along the contour;

marking a new complex seam line making sure it passes through each apex point and cutting the pattern through the new seam line to separate the pattern into two flat parts to create the exact same three dimensional form as the original design.

20. A method according to any one of claims 17 to 19 that includes steps to modify or soften a pattern at apex locations, including the additional steps of:

determining the contact point at which the dart of a garment no longer follows the contour of a body and becomes pointy;

removing the cone tip pattern from this point to the apex; and

replacing the removed cone tip pattern with a predetermined cone tip shaped pattern that defines the requisite curvature.

Description:
Measuring device and method of pattern making using same Field of the Invention

[0001 ] The present invention relates to a measuring device for measuring cone angles at points on three dimensional curved surfaces, and to methods of using that device to create two dimensional patterns for forming sheet materials to conform to those curved surfaces.

[0002] The term "cone angle" is used herein to refer to the two dimensional angle about a central axis after a sector has been removed from a sheet element so that it can be rolled about the central axis into a right circular cone on a spherical surface (<360 degrees), or after a sector has been added to a sheet element so that it can be rolled about the central axis to conform with a hyperbolic surface (>360 degrees).

[0003] The invention has been developed primarily for use in fashion pattern making and will be described herein with reference to this application. However, it will be appreciated that the invention is not limited to this particular field of use, and may be utilised by, for example, sheet metal workers, engineers, designers, marine and automotive cover makers, and in any industry or craft where fabrics or sheet materials need to be tailored to adapt to preformed curved surfaces.

Background of the Invention

[0004] The human body is a particularly complex shape, with no two bodies being identical. Even allowing for different general body shape types, there are huge variations between bodies of a given clothing size within that body type group. These variations can be further exacerbated by other factors that affect shape such as those associated with genetic variations, poor posture habits, core fitness and age.

[0005] Traditional tailoring and patternmaking methods are based primarily on taking a set of linear measurements with a tape measure at predetermined locations or datum points on a body, and then applying a range of techniques to fill in the missing information in between these points, to thereby create two dimensional patterns that define the full three dimensional form. The "filling in" techniques include, for example, applying set ratios and spacing rules for certain body types, using adjustable mannequins or other models, using draping techniques, and using physical two dimensional drafting instruments such as French curves for generating curved lines for sleeve openings and the like. [0006] The reality is that the linear measurements coupled with any or all of these techniques, at best still results in only approximations of true body shape. As such, the ultimate accuracy and fit using these prior art techniques is very dependent on the experience of the pattern maker and their "feel" for what needs adjusting to achieve the desired outcome and how that needs to be done.

[0007] Alternative and potentially far more accurate solutions have been proposed based on the use of three dimensional body scanners and complex computer programs that analyse the data from the scanner. However, these systems are mostly untested, not commercially available and/or are prohibitively expensive to the majority of people involved in or interested in pattern making. Furthermore, such devices don't readily allow for designer input variation at the measuring stage.

[0008] Similar comments apply in relation to other relevant industries, such as in the manufacture of tailored covers for boats and vehicles.

[0009] It is an object of the present invention to provide a measuring device and method of using that device that overcomes or ameliorates one or more disadvantages of the prior art, or at least offers a useful alternative.

Summary of the Invention

[0010] According to a first aspect the present invention provides a measuring device for measuring the cone angle corresponding to a portion of a curved surface at a selected datum location, the device including: a surface contact element having a connected central point for positioning at the selected datum location, the central point defining a first axis of rotation passing there through, a first edge and a second edge, each edge extending generally radially outwardly along the surface contact element from a point adjacent the first axis to a peripheral edge of the surface contact element to enable rotational movement of the edges about the first axis and within planes through which the first axis extends, to form the surface contact element into at least a portion of a cone conforming to a selected portion of the curved surface at the selected datum location, the region between the first and second edges including a measuring zone, a measuring cursor secured to the surface contact element between the first and second edges extending radially outwardly from the first axis, and means to measure the angular positioning of the cursor relative to the measuring zone to thereby measure the cone angle.

[001 1 ] Preferably, the surface contact element is in the form of a sheet material. [0012] The term "sheet element" is used herein to include not only continuous planar sheet materials, but also perforate sheet materials, or sheet like elements in the form of a web of interconnecting elements, or a combination of these, or in fact any sheet form capable of being manipulated in a rotary sliding and/or overlapping manner to form a cone like formation.

Preferably, the surface contact element or sheet is generally flexible, yet provides a

reasonable degree of stiffness in the radial direction to provide a guide surface from which measurements can be easily taken.

[0013] In a preferred form the measuring zone includes indicia indicating degrees of at least a part of a circle about the first axis, the marking preferably commencing at zero from the measuring cursor. Preferably the cursor also aligns with the first edge and in one form can be formed by the first edge.

[0014] In another form the measuring zone and cursor may include electronic means to output a cone angle reading indicative of the position of the cursor relative to the measuring zone.

[0015] For ease of manufacture and use, a preferred form of the device has a generally flat circular overall shape when not in use, with the cursor extending along a radius of that circle and the measuring zone, which may include indicia marked on the surface, preferably extending in an annular configuration at a location radially offset from the first axis.

[0016] In a particularly preferred form, the device is configured to measure cone angles up to and over 360 degrees, thereby enabling measurement of inwardly extending complex hyperbolic surface regions such as hip to upper torso transitions (> 360 degrees), as well as generally spherical surface regions such as the bust zone (<360 degrees).

[0017] In one embodiment, the device includes a measuring zone including a first circular measuring zone for measuring cone angles less than 360 degrees, and a second part circle or full circle measuring zone, contiguous with the first circular measuring zone, for measuring cone angles in excess of 360 degrees. Preferably the first and second circular measuring zones share a common radius. In one form the second circular measuring zone measures from around 360 degrees to 540 degrees. In all forms the first and second circular measuring zones overlap in the flat unused state in a helical like arrangement which is effectively unwound (usually in an anti-clockwise direction) to increase exposed surface area when measuring a hyperbolic cone angle of greater than 360 degrees, and wound up (usually in a clockwise direction) to increase the overlap and decrease the exposed area when measuring a spherical surface cone angle.

[0018] The device may be opaque or transparent or translucent or a combination of these. If transparent or translucent with surface indicia, it may be preferable to radially offset the markings for the second circular measuring zone from those of the first measuring zone, so as to avoid overlap which may make it harder to read a measurement.

[0019] The first and second edges may be virtual edges that are interconnected, for example, via a flexible web portion, which allows the edges to move in a relative fashion to each other as described.

[0020] Optionally, the device may include means to temporarily secure the device to a cone angle being measured to help prevent the device from biasing back toward its flat rest position while additional measurements are being taken as described below. Such securing means may include some form of magnet device or clip or hook and loop type fastener or any other suitable releasable securing means.

[0021 ] In some embodiments the device may also include handle means to enable remote positioning on and retention against the body to be measured. The handle may be removable and may take any suitable form. Optionally the handle and/or the device may include means to take measurements from the centre of the device to selected points on the boundary of the curve.

[0022] According to a second aspect the present invention provides a method of creating a two dimensional pattern based on measuring a curved surface using the device according to the first aspect of the invention, the method including the steps of: positioning the device with its central point at a selected high point or low point on the curved surface and adjusting same by rotation of the first and second edges about the first axis and within planes through which the first axis extends such that a selected portion of the surface contact element conforms to that surface and measuring the resulting cone angle indicated at the measuring cursor;

orientating the device so that the cursor extends in the direction in which corresponds to the region where a dart is to be formed or a gusset inserted; taking a series of measurements from the centre of the device along a measured angle from the cursor to predetermined boundary points on the curved surface; and creating a corresponding pattern by marking a point on a two dimensional sheet corresponding to a dart or gusset apex, extending the lines defining the dart of gusset angle which is the measured cone angle less 360 degrees to the measured length to the adjacent boundary at that point, and progressively plotting the remaining angle and length measurements, and joining the distal ends of these measurements to define the remaining pattern, wherein if the cone angle is less than 360 degrees, a dart region is provided from which material is excluded and if the cone angle is more than 360 degrees a gusset region is defined to which additional material is provided.

[0023] In order to generate patterns for curved shapes where the curvature is constantly changing, the above method is adapted whereby a line is defined along the apex of the complex curve and the device is progressively moved to spaced apart points along that line. At each point the method above is applied. In this manner a pattern is created with the various dart and/or gusset regions being provided at the ends and between interconnecting regions.

[0024] In some embodiments the measurements from the centre of the device to the boundary points will be taken with a simple tape measure. Similarly, the various angles will be read by eye from indicia marked on the surface of the device.

[0025] However, in other embodiments of the device, electronic means may be provided within the device to measure the angle automatically and output a signal representative of that angle. The signal may be used to generate a visual reading on the device or from another remote device, or send an electronic signal to some form of computing means.

[0026] Further modifications to the method for adaptation to complex curves and complex seam lines are described here after.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0027] A preferred embodiment(s) of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings(s) in which:

[0028] Figure 1 on the left view illustrates some typical basic linear measurements as taken on a body or mannequin, and on the right view illustrates how these linear measurements are represented in a two dimensional pattern form;

[0029] Figure 2 is a series of three dimensional representations of a body or portion of a body indicating how it is made up of a range of different three dimensional forms; [0030] Figure 3 is a top perspective view of a first embodiment measuring device according to the first aspect of the invention;

[0031 ] Figures 4a - 4c show how the device of Figure 3 operates on two different three dimensional types of curve formation on a body;

[0032] Figure 5 illustrates how the device of Figure 3 operates to measure a cone angle of < 360 degrees as per the bust measurement example shown in Figure 4b;

[0033] Figure 6 illustrates how the device of Figure 3 operates to measure a cone angle of > 360 degrees as per the lower to upper body transition measurement example shown in Figure 4c;

[0034] Figure 7 is a series of views illustrating specific use of the device of Figure 3 to create a pattern for a portion of a skirt;

[0035] Figure 8 is a series of views illustrating specific use of the device of Figure 3 to create a pattern for a portion of a bodice;

[0036] Figure 9 is a series of views illustrating specific use of the device of Figure 3 to create a pattern for a waisted skirt to bodice transition region;

[0037] Figure 10 is a series of views illustrating use of the device of Figure 3 for generating a pattern for a curved surface of varying curvature;

[0038] Figure 1 1 is a series of views illustrating how the previous methods can be adapted to alter a cone tip profile as needed;

[0039] Figure 12 is a series of views illustrating how the method of Figure 10 can be adapted to incorporate complex pattern elements that cross a major contour;

Preferred Embodiment of the Invention

[0040] The present invention will now be described with reference to the following examples which should be considered in all respects as illustrative and non-restrictive. [0041 ] Referring first to Figure 1 there is shown a simplified representation of the core principles upon which most fashion industry pattern making is based. As can be seen, a range of key linear measurements 1 to 4 are taken with a tape measure as shown in the left view and these are translated into corresponding elements of a corresponding two dimensional pattern as shown in the right view. Adaptation to allow for the complex curved surfaces between these datum measurements is made using a number of techniques including that of taking additional similar measurements, using typically proportioned mannequins or rules of thumb based on basic Euclidean (two dimensional) geometry as guides, employing the use of drafting tools such as French curves and/or otherwise relying on the skill and experience of the

patternmaker to fill in the missing information to achieve the desired fit.

[0042] Other prior art methods include that of draping a fabric over a suitably configured mannequin and pinning, tucking, marking and cutting to achieve the desired result. While this can work well, it only works for certain fabric types and clothing designs, it is not time and cost efficient, and the accuracy is heavily dependent on user skill and experience.

[0043] The device and method of the invention has been inspired from the recognition that the human body is a very complex shape that can be broken down into a range of three dimensional shape types such as those shown in Figure 2. Of these only a few elements, such as the arm and thigh portions 5 and 6, can be adequately defined using Euclidean geometry. Other regions such as the breast portion 7 and shoulder cap 8 are better defined by spherical geometry, and hip to bodice and hip to thigh transitions 9 and 10 are better defined by hyperbolic geometry.

[0044] While a standard tape measure is fine for measuring the linear dimensions used in Euclidean geometry, there was need for a device that could be used to measure the more complex curved surfaces referenced above so that the spherical and hyperbolic geometry can be applied for a more accurate measurement of the regions to which these apply.

[0045] To this end the measuring device of the invention has been developed, which is a measuring device for measuring cone angles at points on three dimensional curved surfaces, along with methods of using measurements taken with that device to create two dimensional patterns for forming sheet materials to conform to those curved surfaces.

[0046] A first embodiment device according to the invention is shown in Figure 3. The device 1 1 is formed from a flexible sheet material 12, which for ease of manufacture and durability is preferably made from some form of polymeric material. The device in the preferred form is generally circular in peripheral shape and has a first axis of rotation 13 at its centre 14 which extends in a direction that is generally perpendicular to the surface of the device when in a generally flat position when not in use. The overall size of the device is not critical and will depend on the application. However, a diameter of between 10cm and 13cm has been found to be convenient for use in clothing design e.g., dress making. Naturally, for other applications such as in designing large covers for big machinery or the like, a larger device may be easier to use.

[0047] The device has a first edge 15 which extends radially outwardly along the sheet from a point at or adjacent the centre 14 through which axis 13 passes, to a peripheral edge 16 of the sheet 12. Between these two points a surface contact region is defined which can be any region in use which is chosen to align with the contour of the body or shape being measured. The sheet 12 in the illustrated embodiment defines two generally circular portions 17 and 18 one layered over the other that are contiguous sharing a common radius disposed immediately beneath the first edge 15. The lower circular portion terminates at a second edge (not shown) which lies directly beneath the first edge 15. It should be noted that while Figure 3 shows the two generally circular portions axially spaced at the periphery, this is purely for illustrative purposes, whereas in reality the two portions will sit closely together and slide over one another in use.

[0048] The device includes a measuring cursor 19, which in this particular embodiment is simply a line corresponding to radially extending first edge 15. In some other embodiments the cursor may be inset from this edge and/or may be a separately connected component or window element rather than a simple line.

[0049] Extending from the cursor in a direction away from the first edge 15 is a measuring zone 20 which in the current form includes radially disposed indicia measuring angular measurements in degrees starting at zero at the cursor 19. In the illustrated embodiment the measuring zone includes a first, in this case, upper circular measuring zone 21 that measures 0 to 360 degrees, and a second measuring zone 22 which extends below as a helical continuation of the first measuring zone 21 which measures 360 to 720 degrees. While the first measuring zone will always extend to 360 degrees, the second circular portion with second measuring zone need not be as extensive and in most applications a need only extend to measure up to a further 180 degrees, that is from 360 degrees to 540 degrees. As such the second generally circular portion may only define a portion of a circle such as a semi-circle. [0050] The device 1 1 can be used in three different orientations to measure sizes and directions on three types of surfaces as illustrated in very general terms in Figure 4. In this regard it can be used to measure angular displacements on a flat surface as indicated in Figure 4a, as well as being able to measure cone angles of less than 360 degrees on spherical based surfaces as shown in Figure 4b, and cone angles of more than 360 degrees as shown in Figure 4c.

[0051 ] The basic modes of operation are as follows. Firstly, on a flat surface the device 1 1 can be positioned over a selected start point, and measurements taken in radial directions from the centre 14 to predetermined edge points such as side seam regions and the shape reproduced directly in the two dimensional form.

[0052] When being used in a second mode to measure the cone angle at a bust region, for example, as shown in Fig.4b, the device 1 1 is manipulated by rotation of the first edge 15 over the top circular portion 17. This results in rotation of the edge about the first axis and within planes through which the first axis extends to form a cone as shown in the left most view in Figure 5. This is adjusted until it contacts and conforms as desired and the angular measurement that the cursor 19 reads is noted. The device may be temporarily fixed in this position. Again measurements can be taken in radial directions as described above. When transferring the measurements from the three dimensional form to the two dimensional pattern the device can be used once more in the flattened 360 degree position. The difference between 360 degrees and measured angle, which could be, for example 310 degrees, defines a negative angle that will be the dart angle 23 (which indicates a region excess to that required to define the three dimensional shape) as shown in the right hand view of Figure 5.

[0053] Operation in the third mode is very similar to the second mode, except that rather than rotating the first edge 15 over the top circular portion to narrow into a right circular cone shape, the first edge is moved in the opposite direction, thereby opening up or unwinding the device to expose the underlying second measuring zone until the device conforms to the hyperbolic surface at that location. Once again the device can be held in that orientation and radial measurements to predetermined peripheral points taken as required. When transferring the measurements from the three dimensional form to the two dimensional pattern, the device is again flattened. However, the difference between 360 degrees and the measured angle in this instance which could, for example, be 420 degrees, defines a positive angle and a gusset region 24 that needs to be added to define the three dimensional shape. [0054] Turning next to Figure 7 there is shown a series of views illustrating specific use of the device 1 1 to create a pattern for a portion of a skirt. Each view of the skirt portion of the body 25 has a view of the two dimensional pattern sheet 26 relevant to that view directly below. It can be seen from the top left views that the process begins by positioning the device 1 1 with its centre point 14 at a location 27 on the body corresponding to the location of the highest point of a curve on the body which is the location at which the apex of a dart will need to be formed.

[0055] A tape measure or rule can then be used to measure a straight line 28 from the apex to a land mark on the body such as the waist line 29. The device 1 1 is then adjusted to conform with the curve at that location to form a cone, secured in that cone position and then rotated so that the zero line and cursor 19 aligns with this direction. From there a series of linear measurements can be taken from the centre 14 to various peripheral landmarks such as further points on the waist line 29 and side and centre seams 30 and 31 . Each linear measurement will have a length and an angular offset measurement in degrees from the zero degree reading on the device 1 1 .

[0056] To translate these measurements into the two dimensional pattern, start at a point on the paper corresponding to the dart apex location 27 and create an angle extending from this point corresponding to the dart angle, which is an angle of 360 degrees less the cone angle measured at the cursor. The lines defining this angle are then extended by to the length of the straight line 28 thereby defining mating edges of the dart seam. From that point the pattern can be generated progressively by using the device 1 1 , and plotting the remaining

measurements taken that radiate from the datum point 27. The more radial measurements taken the more accurately the peripheral edges will be indicated. The final boundary lines can be created by simply joining the distal points of the radial lines, applying some form of curve approximation if required. In practice, a copy of the completed pattern 32 would be cut out at this stage and draped on the body to check for fit and adjustments made if required.

[0057] To prepare pattern for a simple bodice portion a very similar process would be adopted as illustrated in Figure 8 and like reference numerals will be used to denote corresponding features. In the illustrated example the dart extends from the waist region 29 to the apex point of the bust 33 and the subsequent steps are very similar as shown in the drawings. However, substantially the same process can be used with the dart located to the side of the bust or above or indeed in any desired location. As long as the cursor of the device is rotated to align with the dart direction, the process remains simple to follow. [0058] The previous examples described with reference to Figures 7 and 8 both utilise the device to measure cone angles of less than 360 degrees to determine the amount of material to be omitted to define the curved surfaces at the chosen locations. By contrast Figure 9 illustrates an example where the device is used to measure slightly more complex hyperbolic curves such as can exist at a skirt top to bodice transition region 35. In this application the device is being used to determine the amount and form of additional material to be added to define the final three dimensional form.

[0059] The procedure is still simple and again corresponding numerals will be used to denote corresponding features. The process begins by identifying the location of maximum curvature 27 which is the location at which a gusset element will need to be added in or allowed for. In this particular example it will be at the waist.

[0060] The device 1 1 is once again located with its centre 14 at location 27 and effectively unwound around axis 13 to conform to the curved surface at that location and the cone angle at the cursor is noted. In this instance it will be greater than 360 degrees. The device can be secured and a series of measurements taken along defined radiuses of the device to the chosen peripheral boundary lines which in the illustrated example is a bust seam 36, a skirt hem or seam 37 and side seams 38 and 39.

[0061 ] To create the two dimensional pattern from these measurements it is necessary this time to place two points on the flat paper to represent the apex point 27. One is to represent the gusset and the other is for the rest of the pattern where the gusset is to be inserted.

[0062] The gusset is defined by reproducing the gusset angle on the paper by subtracting 360 degrees from measured cone angle and extending the lines defining the angle by the length measured at the selected zero degree direction in which the device was oriented on the body. The remaining portion of the pattern is generated in the same way as the previous examples. This results in a template for a gusset 40 and remaining portion 41 . To create the full pattern, the gusset portion is inserted at a location corresponding to the zero degree line which results in a single full pattern 42. Alternatively, the gusset can be inserted into the pattern and the pattern cut in half to create two patterns 43 and 44 that can be sewn together to create the identical shape 42.

[0063] It will be appreciated that the previously described examples are all relatively simple, focussing on one relatively constant curve form for a particular body portion. However, it will be appreciated that the device can be readily adapted for use in defining far more complex curves that vary along a contoured surface such as is illustrated in Figure 10.

[0064] As can be seen, the process basically involves identification of an apex line 45 on a contoured surface 46 and involves the steps of progressively applying the above described techniques by moving the device 1 1 from selected point 47 along that apex line measuring the specific curve form at each point. In this manner a pattern can be created for each region emanating from those points. By ensuring the dart angles for the points at the longitudinal ends of the line 45 are set along the line at locations 48 and 49, and for points intermediate these locations they are set generally transverse to this line such as at 50, patterns 51 and 52 defining the portions of the surface either side of the line are easily generated.

[0065] It is also possible to vary the above techniques to "soften" or "round" a pattern at various apex locations such as the dart apex at the bust region. In the past, avoidance of unwanted point formations was achieved by lowering the bust darts to below the highest point. However, such a technique then throws out all the other measurements taken relative to that point. Instead, the invention provides a means of softening the curves while retaining the integrity and accuracy of the overall measurements taken from that datum.

[0066] An example of one such technique as applied to a bodice pattern is described with reference to Figure 1 1 . The first step is to find the bust contact point 53 which is the point at which the dart of a garment no longer follows the contour of a body and becomes pointy. The cone tip pattern 54 above this point is then cut out from the pattern and replaced with another cone tip shaped pattern 55 that has a curved apex or an apex not centred at the bust point. This then results in the final pattern 56 as shown.

[0067] Using the methods described above patterns for shapes with a mixture of simple and/or very complex curves can be created with confidence. Additionally, it is possible to introduce very complex seam patterns that extend across the apex line of any curve by applying the technique illustrated in Figure 12. As can be seen, the contoured pattern with contour line 57 is first divided up with straight lines 58 to show the locations of apex points 59 along the contour 57. A proposed new seam line 60 is then marked making sure it passes through each apex point. It is then possible to cut through the new seam line and separate the pattern into two flat parts which when traced around creates an entirely new design, but which operates to create the exact same three dimensional form as the original design. This enables predictable and accurate creation of amazingly complex patterns using materials of different colour and/or texture, while still ensuring an accurate fit and fall.

[0068] In the described embodiment and method examples, the measurements from the centre of the device to the boundary points may be taken with a simple tape measure.

Similarly, the various angles will be read by eye from angle indicia marked on the surface of the device.

[0069] The device may also be modified to include a number of additional permanent or removable features. For example it could include some form of handle to enable the pattern maker to hold the device remotely against the surface or body being measured. It could also include either an integral tape measure type device, that has marking or provides some form of automatic length reading output, or just a simple aperture or ring means in the centre to receive and retain the end of such a measuring means.

[0070] As discussed above, it may also be possible to make the device from materials other than the typical paper thin polymeric sheet illustrated in Figures 3 to 6. For example, it may be some form of mesh material or even constructed in the manner of a fan type arrangement with pivotally interconnected radially extending elements, so long as the device can function as described to be deformable into various external and internal cone surfaces, while preferably also being capable of being returned to a flat state as well.

[0071 ] Accordingly, while the invention has been described with reference to various specific embodiments, it will be appreciated that numerous variations are possible without departing from the scope of the invention.




 
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