The recent introduction of"full electronic"circular knitting machines with differentiated diameters (small and medium), has attracted the industry's interest since their versatility allows to produce a wide range of semi- finished tubular items such as stockings, bras, panties, dresses, trousers, skirts, teddies, swimsuits, technical items and more. But due to some inherent technical limitations, among them the lack of laces, bows, strings and similar appendices, most of the aforementioned knitwear items systematically require laborious and costly additional finishing operations such as cutting and sewing, which continuously and permanently affect production costs.

Insofar as is known, the Italian Patent No. 1288310 provides for different similar realisations pertaining to shoulder straps, loops or braces, or sundry openings for legs and arms; however, such solutions present technical difficulties and additional costs due to the complex and costly mechanisms for gripping and transporting the knitting fabric from one part of the cylinder to the other. The present invention aims concretely to reduce or altogether eliminate the aforesaid technical and productive limitations, to automatically obtain tubular knitwear items complete with laces, bows, strings and/or

various appendices with original productive, technical, aesthetic and commercial aims. For some embodiments, the present invention builds on the teachings of the Applicant's Italian patents no. 1295743-no. 1288310- no. CO-99-A000009-no. CO-99-A000018-no. CO-99-A000023 and lastly no. 1255008, the latter partially illustrated in Figs. 9-10-11-12.

Briefly, this patent contemplates the production of knitwear items characterised by fabric areas with differentiated growth caused by the exclusion of a given number of needles, alternated relative to the adjacent ones, for instance 1: 1, or 2: 1-2: 2 and the like.

Contrary to the norm, even a substantial part of impulses or commands usually directed to the needles is not sent to a part thereof, according to a defined scheme or program, conforming with the original drawing. This determines the exclusion from the knit forming process of the needles lacking inputs or commands ; such exclusion, if total and in defined areas, would produce floating yarns, which are appropriately manipulated with the use of some working needles AD, Figs. 10,10a, duly spaced, with the dual purpose of reducing the length of the floating yarns and of creating interesting knitted structures or three-dimensional frills Bi, Figs. 10,10a.

Therefore, the invention is obtained also with a knit fabric produced only with a part of the needles present in the involved areas or zones. For instance, only the even needles AP will be excluded, or needles in alternating pairs; or groups of three working needles will be followed by one or more excluded needles, and so on. The simultaneous presence of working needles 1-3 alternating with excluded needles, 2-4, Figs. 11-12,

for defined areas and for a time interval which may be relatively long (corresponding to a high number of knitted courses), is the sufficient and necessary condition for the manufacture of an original stitched fabric, formed by the working needles and related loops AD but interrupted and still interlaced with the excluded needles and loops AP, in order to produce a closed knit frill, with two layers or fabrics Bi, Figs. 10,10a, which is repeatable and/or variable in height, width and diagonal.

All this stated, the invention intends to reduce to a significant extent or eliminate at least in part some of the. aforesaid technical and productive limitations.

A main aim of the present invention is to provide a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular stitched items in general, also shaped or conformed, provided with at least a bow, lace, string and the like, in single or double layer fabric, produced automatically with the continuous or alternating motion of the cylinder needles, both with the aid of the dial or other needle bed, and with just the selection of needles or sinkers.

A further aim is to produce said tubular items provided with at least an appendix with substantially rectangular shaped, connected and stitched on only one side to the knit tube.

An additional aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the production of said tubular items provided with at least a lace, bow, string and the like, also double, separated by the knit tube at the extremities, but connected or stitched thereto in correspondence with the central part of said lace.

Another aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the manufacture of the aforementioned knitwear items provided with at least a bow, lace, string and the like, produced with the alternating motion of the cylinder and the aid of so-called"pickers"and/or by means of the sole electronic selection of the needles.

Disclosure of the Invention The above mentioned aims are substantially achieved by a method for automatically producing tubular knitwear items, which can also be shaped, provided with one or more bows, laces, strings and various appendices, in knitting machines provided with at least a needlebed or dial, comprising the step of producing a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course, characterized in that it comprises the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric protruding from the tubular knitwear item and formed by partial and supplementary knitted courses, the supplementary portion having a first extremity substantially separated from the first length of tubular knitted fabric and a second extremity connected to the last stitch course, the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric being carried out by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of a predetermined number of needles of the dial from the knit forming process, for a predetermined time interval.

Advantageously the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric comprises the steps of discharging a predetermined portion of the first length of tubular knitted fabric from the

predetermined number of needles and producing, preferably with the alternating motion of the cylinder, a supplementary portion of knitted fabric with at least a part of the predetermined number of needles and producing at least a second length of fabric with the needles still engaged to the first length of tubular knitted fabric.

Preferably the method comprises at least a step of producing a third length of tubular knitted fabric by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of at least a part of the predetermined number of needles of the dial in the knit forming process, the third length starting with a first stitch course connected to the second extremity of the supplementary portion of knitted fabric. Advantageously said third length of tubular knitted fabric is also connected to the last stich course of said first length of tubular knitted fabric.

Additional aims are apparent from the description, embodiments and accompanying drawings, by themselves or in mutual combination, in addition to the final claims.

The features of the invention and the advantages which derive from it shall become more readily apparent from the following description of embodiments provided by way of example and can be applied advantageously to most knitwear and hosiery circular machines.

Brief Description of the Drawings The description will be made with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: -Figure 1 shows a section particular view of a circular knitting machine with a knitting fabric engaged to the needles of the dial;

-Figure 2 is a view similar to figure 1 with the fabric transferred onto overlying hooks; -Figure 3 is similar to figures 1,2 and shows two different positions of the knitting fabric during a realisation of the invention; -Figures 4,5 and 6 are side views of needles and sinkers of the circular machine during the discharge of last fabric loops B; -Figures 7 and 8 show to a mechanical latch opening device; -Figures 9,11 and 12 technically show a selection of the needles for the production of three-dimensional frills or flounces Bi; -Figure 10 and 10a show the frills of flounces Bi; -Figure 13 is a perspective view of a cylinder CYL and a knit tube TM with a supplementary portion or knit lace M; -Figures 14,14a, 14b, 14c show different embodiments of the knit lace M; -Figure 15 is a view similar to figure 13 with the knit lace in a second position Ml; -Figure 16 is a view similar to figure 13 with the knit lace produced with knitting reductions; -Figure 17 is a view similar to figure 16 with two detached laces M1 with traditional wastes W; -Figure 18 show a plan view of the knit tube TM provided with laces 2-2a-2b and appendix 2c; -Figure 19 shows a lateral displacement of a yarn from loops 5 and 6 of row C to the adjacent loops of the row, caused by the absence of the related needles; -Figures 20,21,22 and 23 show various embodiments and positions of knit laces and bows of the invention;

-Figures 24 and 25 show a tubular item, in particular a bra, characterised by the presence of bows or laces 3; -Figures 26 and 27 show a panty provided with bows or laces 3; -Figures 28 and 29 show a stocking provided with bows or laces 3,3A and 4A; -Figure 30 show a dress characterised by the presence of bows or laces indicated as 3 and 3A.

Description of the Illustrative Embodiments These results are easily achieved according to the invention, and purely with descriptive and non limiting purposes, most of the description concerns a"full electronic"type of circular machine, fitted with at least: a needle bed or cylinder rotating against stationary cams cr vice versa; a complete feeding station, provided with one or more yarn feeder; preferably electronic needle selection able to control the elements concurring in the formation of the stitching according to a work cycle and jacquard pattern; pneumatic or mechanical system for drawing the fabric and lastly said circular machine is also equipped with a dial provided with selectable needles or hooks.

In a preferred embodiment, the invention is initially obtained with the preparation of a work cycle or jacquard design, i. e. information addressed to the needles and jacks or other elements concurring directly or indirectly to the manufacture of the fabric, by means of a usual graphic station or other control or memory devices or by means of electromechanical, magnetic, optical apparatuses, and other means suitable for the purposes.

Currently, the tubular knitwear items mentioned in the

premise are produced with the needles of the cylinder since the hooks of the dial are, as a rule, used to form the so-called double welt. Figure 1 shows a section view of the lowered needles A and raised needles A' ; the sinkers PM with related sinker cover CP; the yarn feeders GU and the yarn Y. On the dial P are housed the hooks U in retracted position and U2, in advanced position, provided with two or more butts heights for the various mechanical selections or equipped with electronic selection (not shown herein). Generally, a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course is produced by the knitting machine. The knitting fabric MI is normally engaged to the needles A. In Fig. 2, the stitch loops formerly indicated as MI are shown transferred onto the overlying hooks BU with some final knitted courses or waste W. In the specific case the knitting fabric formerly indicated as MI assumes the upper position MS.

Fig. 3 partially shows the set of different positions of the knitting during a realisation of the invention. At the top, the dial is provided with hooks with high butts TA (and low ones TB) able temporarily to hold the knitting fabric MS in the position indicated as BU. In the meantime, on the corresponding needles A, the second knitting cycle has started for the fabric MI-2, or the double welt DB produced with the fixed selection of the needles, for instance the odd ones. The remaining half of the cylinder, with the needles A1 continues to produce fabric M as always. The references AJ and AJ 1 indicated special nozzles for compressed air able to open the latches of the needles and/or to thrust the fabric inside the cylinder.

In accordance with the present invention, the knit tube MI in Fig. 1, still inside the needle cylinder, is temporarily and preferably only partly, for instance 180° or half the cylinder, to the hooks U housed in the overlying dial P of Fig. 1. Consequently the usual selection mechanism (not shown) of the butts of the aforementioned hooks U is modified to engage only the high butts TA, Figs. 1-2-3, corresponding, in this specific case, to about half the dial or cylinder. By loading the hooks U, the transfer is obtained of a part of the knit tube, formerly MI, from the needle cylinder onto the hooks U, in position BU, Fig. 2. At this point the needles A corresponding to the transferred fabric are offloaded or disengaged in the usual manner.

But in order to avoid undesired unravelling, a textile preparation phase is provided so that the few knitted courses produced between the aforementioned loading of the hooks BU and the last knitted course W, Fig. 2, are characterised by knit structures, also with double welt, mesh type or non-run type with variable stitch densities controlled electronically by the related motorise computer-controlled knit cams (not shown), together with the use of suitable yarns, for instance elastic and/or thermo-adhesive, i. e. able gradually to melt, interlacing with the adjacent loops or stitches. In this phase or embodiment, the machine or the work cycle of the textile item are in the"zero"position with all feeds cancelled, the yarn feeders GU excluded and the consequent temporary stop of the manufacturing cycle. In the specific case, half of the knit tube, M, Fig. 3, is still engaged with the needles Al of the cylinder, whilst the second half, MS in Figs. 2-3, is temporarily transferred onto

corresponding hooks BU of the dial P. (In another embodiment, the previous knitting fabric MI of Fig. 1 is not transferred onto the hooks BU of dial, Fig. 2, but is totally and adequately offloaded both to disengage the needles subsequently used to produce the additional fabric which will form the supplementary portion or lace, and purposely to obtain a permanent opening.) At this point, in accordance with the invention, only the programmed needles, as a rule arranged in a group and adjacent, are selected and sent on a usual ascent cam (not shown) free of yarn in a single feed to lift completely. The maximum elevation of these needles yields two important results: all their latches L, automatically opening, are positioned above the last loops B, still engaged between the needles and the sinkers, like the needles 1-3 in Fig. 12.

The subsequent descent step of said needles is shown in Figures 4-5-6.

The needle A of Fig. 4 starts the descent and the last loop B, adhering against the stem of the needles, inserting itself under the tab L starts to close it automatically and progressively. Continuing the descent of the needles, the aforementioned latches will be closed completely, Fig. 5, serving as a"bridge"for the same loops B which are then definitively detached, as in Fig.

6. In this phase also the sinkers P move progressively and radially backwards following the arrow F, synchronously with the descent motion of the needles A.

The progressive detachment of the loops B from the involved needles takes place only after the transport of the fabric formerly indicated as MI, Fig. 1, and now MS, Fig. 2, from the needles of the cylinder to the

corresponding hooks BU of the dial. In this operative phase, the total discharge of the programmed needles produces in the fabric tube a continuous horizontal opening in the direction of the knitted courses which will be sutured only with the return of the stitch MS by means of the transfer from the hooks BU to the original needles.

In accordance with the invention the currently disengaged needles, temporarily lacking knitting fabric, must necessarily re-start the manufacturing process and are thus selected and directed progressively on at least an ascent cam according to a predefined sequence, such as 1: 3 (a working needle and three excluded ones) followed by the fixed selection 1: 1, so that, depending on technical-textile variables, all the needles first or only half the disengaged needles, for instance the odd ones, take up the new yarn, ready for the occasion, for a second knitting start.

During this ascent, the disengaged needles, still with the latches L closed, find on the obligated path a latch- opener device AL for opening the latches forcibly. The described procedure is illustrated schematically in Figure 7: the latch L is still against the hook U inside which a latch-opener metal tip AL is automatically positioned until the latch L is open and upset in the direction of the arrow F. Figure 8 is a plan view of the cylinder CYL, rotating according to the arrow F. The needle hook U, adhering to the latch L, finds on the obligated ascent path the latch opening element AL, inserted for this purpose.

In an alternative embodiment, the knitting machine could be equipped with compound needles, which resume the

stitch-forming process without latch openers After the opening of the latches of the needles in the way just described, which can be effected with due variations also with alternating motion (in other embodiments the latch is open by means of compressed air jet from above, or by means of a thin lamina able to be inserted between the hook and the latch), the method for forming the knitting resumes. This second knitting cycle resumes with a supplementary portion with a simple welt or double welt DB, also indicated as MI-2 in Figure 3, forming the aforementioned bows or laces and the like.

(In another embodiment, said laces and the like are produced during the first knitting cycle, at the start of the knitwear item.) Such laces, able to vary in amplitude, height and shape, are characterised in that they are substantially connected to the knit tube at a single extremity or side, and said connection, alternative to the usual engagement, can be obtained by means of a plurality of floating yarns 7, in Fig. 13.

Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the cylinder CYL, the knit tube TM, separated by the subsequent knit lace M, still on the needles with the extremity 7 characterised by a plurality of floating yarns, which may optionally be alternative to the fabric.

In regard to the so-called waste, term that is well known to the persons versed in the art, the invention also provides for the careful use of alternating motion with the augmentation and/or reduction technique, i. e. with the lateral displacement or transfer of the yarn relative to the gradually variable number of the needles dedicated to the purpose. Lastly, after the production and the detachment of the laces of the invention, the knitting

fabric MS, Figs. 2-3, formerly on the hooks BU, is "transferred"to the needles A of the cylinder, both to suture two knitted parts produced at different times, and to resume the work cycle.

Figure 13 schematically shows a different embodiment of the invention.

Through the view 1 of the cylinder CYL, complete with needles N, one can observe the last row MP of the knit tube TM inside the cylinder. The production of the knit lace M, subsequent relative to the last row MP, is preferably obtained with the alternating motion of the cylinder and a limited number of needles, corresponding to F3..

This second work process can vary considerably (Figs. 14, 14a, 14b, 14c) relative to the previous stitch: in the nature and colour of the yarn; in new knitting patterns; in knitting density; single or double layer with the odd needles only, or double welt with the additional aid of the hooks (or needles) of the dial. Lastly, in the number of engaged needles, also subject to the known augmentations and/or reductions, similarly to the working of the butts and toe of the socks; with the careful selection of jacks or needles.

In regard to the waste of the subject lace M, this can be of the traditional type, for which the procedures described above and illustrated in Figure 2, W apply; or it can be considerably reduced or absent as in the hypothesis in which said knit lace M be produced with the technique of the programmed augmentation and/or reduction of the working needles. After extraction or detachment, even partial, F4, Fig. 15, the knit lace M assumes the position M1, Fig. 15, remaining engaged only at the

extremity MF. Or it is connected to the adjacent loops only with loose yarns alternative to the knitting, already indicated as 7 in Figure 13. Also within the scope of the invention is the knit lace M in Fig. 16 produced with the technique of alternating motion only of the needles of the area F3, progressively reduced as indicated with the arrows F.

Another preferred embodiment is schematically shown in Fig. 17 : the symmetrical knit laces M1 are initially produced only with the needles of the cylinder F3, whilst the two wastes W are limited to the lateral areas indicated as F2.

Consequently, the laces Ml are engaged only in the central knit area MF corresponding to the needles F. This area MF can naturally be widened until it includes all needles F3, thus obtaining a new result due to the exclusion of said wastes W. Fig. 18 shows some configurations or locations of the various appendices or laces produced in accordance with the present invention: about the generic knit tube TM seen in plan view, are engaged the lace 2; the longer lace 2a; the double lace 2b and lastly the lap or ample and rectangular appendix 2c. Figure 19 shows a typical jersey knit structure characterised in that the virtual loops 5 and 6 of the row D are displaced on the adjacent needles 2-3-4 of the knitted course E. In this respect the invention employs the usual techniques, using or being aided by "pickers", punches, needles or sinkers or other movable organs suitable for the purposes, positioned and operating at times on a second needle bed.

Fig. 20 schematically shows some phases of the production cycle of one of the preferred embodiments of the

invention. The laces LI and L2 are produced with the alternating motion of the cylinder F1-F2, before the knitwear item or tube TM which is clearly separated from said laces, except for the two front extremities.

The upper knitting fabric portion 1 is produced with the alternating motion MA and the portion 2 with the continuous motion MC. The lower part of the window or front opening is formed by two regular selvedges K, followed by irregular welts joined by the floating yarns FF.

Some hypotheses of this embodiment are shown in Fig. 21: the knitwear item 1, provided with laces 3 is folded according to the arrows F, a solution that is suitable for multiple functions such as a collar, a cuff, and more.

Fig. 22 shows a simpler embodiment of the invention: after completion of the laces 3, the production of the knitwear item 1 continues with the continuous motion of the cylinder together with the exclusion of a group of needles in the front area partially and purposely covered with floating yarns FF, which can be further manipulated in accordance with the teachings of Figures 9 through 12.

Also within the scope of the invention is the double shaped welt DB of the knitwear item of Fig. 23, characterised in that in correspondence with the front and rear central part (or elsewhere, if appropriate) indicated as F, said double welt DB presents a substantial level offset or fall relative to the regular height Z, obtained by means of: the smaller number of working needles; the reduced knit density by means of the related movable cams via computer; and preferably, according to the teachings of the patent mentioned in the

premise, no. 1255008 and partially shown in Figs. 9 through 12. The laces 3 of the Fig. 23 are inserted optically in two circles J produced through the selection of the needles, whilst the letter H indicates the hole (or slot) obtained with the technique of discharging and taking up the knitting of some needles, i. e. the technique already described and shown in Figures 4 through 8.

Lastly, the reference letter T indicates the thin knit line, variable in amplitude, caused by the transfer of the knitting fabric from the hooks of the dial to the needles of the cylinder.

Figures 24 through 30 summarily show some knitwear items provided with bows, laces and the like produced according to the teachings of the invention.

In particular, Figures 24 and 25 show the tubular band 1 that is to serve as a support-bra with the laces 3 and the knitting line TP also deriving from the transfer of the knitting fabric, from the hooks of the dial to the needles.

The bows 3 of Fig. 25, duly laced or tied, produce an interesting aesthetic and functional effect together with the simultaneous reduction of the front knit surface, following the arrows F. A similar result is obtained with the underwear of Figure 26, characterised in the presence of another hole H, already described.

Also in this practical embodiment of Fig. 27, the laces 3, joined or tied cause a lowering in a part of the front elastic welt DB according to the arrow F. Figures 28 and 29 show a lateral and front view of the sock 1 and 1A, provided with free laces 3 and 4, and tied laces 3a and 4a, serving different aesthetic and functions. Lastly,

Fig. 30 shows the dress 1 fitted with a lacing on the sides 3, on the lower welt 3a, reproducible according to the invention also on the tubular sleeves S1-S2.

Constructive details can vary in equivalent fashion in the form, dimensions and/or position, as well as in the nature of the technical materials and/or fabrics in use, without thereby departing from the scope of the present invention.