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Title:
METHOD OF APPLYING MAKEUP AND KIT FOR IMPLEMENTING SUCH A METHOD
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2010/070597
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A method of applying makeup to the skin, said method comprising applying, while subjecting it to vibration, a cosmetic composition that includes a proportion by weight of pigment (s) that is greater than or equal to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Inventors:
BLIN XAVIER (FR)
ARNAUD PASCAL (FR)
Application Number:
PCT/IB2009/055796
Publication Date:
June 24, 2010
Filing Date:
December 16, 2009
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
OREAL (FR)
BLIN XAVIER (FR)
ARNAUD PASCAL (FR)
International Classes:
A61K8/02; A45D34/04; A45D40/18; A45D40/26; A61K8/19; A61K8/29; A61Q1/02
Domestic Patent References:
WO2009084205A12009-07-09
WO2006090343A12006-08-31
WO1996008537A11996-03-21
Foreign References:
US20080081026A12008-04-03
US20080279899A12008-11-13
US6132739A2000-10-17
US20080234392A12008-09-25
US4373964A1983-02-15
FR2882506A12006-09-01
FR2904923A12008-02-22
FR2882506A12006-09-01
EP1842520A12007-10-10
FR2904923A12008-02-22
US6688317B22004-02-10
US5879095A1999-03-09
EP0542669A11993-05-19
EP0787730A11997-08-06
EP0787731A21997-08-06
US20040175338A12004-09-09
EP0847752A11998-06-17
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
TANTY, François (3 rue de Penthièvre, Paris, FR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1. A method of applying makeup to the skin, said method comprising applying, while subjecting it to vibration, a cosmetic composition that includes a proportion by weight of pigment (s) that is greater than or equal to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A method according to claim 1, the composition being in liquid form.

3. A method according to claim 2, the composition being in the form of an emulsion.

4. A method according to claim 1, the composition being in the form of a hot-cast composition.

5. A method according to claim 1, the composition being in solid form.

6. A method according to claim 1, application being performed by bringing an application surface loaded with composition into contact with the skin.

7. A method according to claim 1, application being performed by bringing a stick of composition directly into contact with the skin.

8. A method according to any preceding claim, the percentage by weight of pigment (s) lying in the range 22% to 65%.

9. A method according to the preceding claim, the percentage by weight of pigment (s) lying in the range 25% to 55%.

10. A method according to any preceding claim, the composition being anhydrous.

11. A cosmetic kit comprising:

• a cosmetic composition (P) having a proportion by weight of pigment (s) that is greater than or equal to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition; and

• a vibrator applicator (3) making it possible to take the composition by bringing an application surface of the applicator into contact with the composition.

12. A kit according to claim 11, the percentage by weight of pigment (s) lying in the range 22% to 65%.

13. A kit according to claim 11, the percentage by weight of pigment (s) lying in the range 25% to 55%.

Description:
METHOD OF APPLYING MAKEUP AND KIT FOR IMPLEMENTING SUCH A METHOD

The present invention relates to makeup and/or skincare compositions for the skin, said compositions containing high pigment contents.

Such compositions are used for the purpose of masking color imperfections on the face and on the body, such as under-eye dark-circles, red marks, age spots and birth marks, or even patches associated with an illness, such as vitiligo.

In view of their high pigment contents, such compositions are generally thick and difficult to apply, thereby leading to an application and/or a makeup effect that is not always very uniform. Furthermore, the high viscosity of such compositions makes it more difficult to use applicators such as sponges or brushes that could make it possible to improve uniformity.

There thus exists a need to benefit from novel applicators and application methods that facilitate the use of such compositions.

The invention seeks to satisfy that need. Exemplary embodiments of the invention provide method of treating and/or of applying makeup to the skin, said method including the step consisting in applying, while subjecting it to vibration, a cosmetic composition that includes a total proportion by weight of pigment (s) that is greater than or equal to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition. The applicant has discovered that vibration makes it possible to apply the composition more easily and more quickly. In particular, makeup effects obtained with vibration are more uniform.

In addition, applying vibration to the skin, further makes it possible to massage the epidermis with a view to obtaining a sensation of well-being in the application zone. Applying said vibration may further induce a biological response in the cells of the epidermis and/or of the dermis by stimulating mechanoreceptors (e.g. integrins), thereby making it possible to improve the thickness of the skin and/or improve the radiance of the complexion and/or to improve the mechanical properties of the skin (firmness, elasticity, tonicity) .

Vibration may be produced by a vibrator device. Vibrator devices that are suitable for the invention are already known, e.g. from publications FR 2 882 506 or EP 1 842 520. Application FR 2 882 506 gives an example in which, while the composition is being taken, the applicator element is subjected to vibration from a vibration source, thereby enabling a more uniform load of composition to be obtained on the applicator element. In another example, the composition is a stick of lipstick that is subjected to vibration during application.

Application FR 2 904 923 describes a vibration source configured for mounting on a user's finger. That application provides the possibility of loading an applicator or the finger with composition, in particular when the composition is in the form of a pressed powder, by causing the applicator or the finger in contact with the powder to vibrate. It is possible to cause the source vibration to operate from the moment the composition is taken, e.g. for the purpose of improving the composition, and in particular for making it easier to disperse the composition when it is in the form of a break up pressed powder.

A vibrating applicator may be used to take the composition, or the composition may be delivered directly by the applicator when said applicator is secured, during application, to a container containing the composition.

In a first implementation, application is performed by bringing an application surface loaded with composition into contact with the skin. In another implementation, application is performed by bringing a stick of composition directly into contact with the skin.

Vibration source

In accordance with the invention, the composition is subjected to vibration during application, which vibration comes from a vibration source.

According to the invention, a suitable vibration source produces vibration that can be obtained in various ways, in particular mechanically, electronically, or electromechanicalIy .

The cosmetic kit shown diagrammatically in axial section in Figure 1 and described below includes a vibration source that enables vibration to be produced when taking and applying composition.

The cosmetic kit shown diagrammatically in elevation in Figure 2 includes a vibration source that is configured to vibrate the surface of a block of composition that comes directly into contact with the skin .

In general, the frequency of the vibration may lie in the range 5 hertz (Hz) to 10 kilohertz (kHz) , better lying in the range 100 Hz to 5000 Hz. In a particular implementation, the vibration frequency lies in the range 100 Hz to 1000 Hz, and in particular in the range 100 Hz to 300 Hz.

The vibration source may comprise a vibrator made up of a motor and a flyweight that is rotated by the motor and that has its center of gravity located eccentrically relative to the axis of rotation. The motor may be powered electrically by an energy source such as, for example a cylindrical battery electrically connected to the motor via a switch. The vibration source may include a vibrator other than an electric motor rotating a flyweight. The vibration source may in particular comprise any electromechanical, piezoelectric, pneumatic, hydraulic, mechanical, electronic, or electromechanical system capable of producing vibration.

The vibration source may include vibration control means other than a simple on/off switch, and in particular it may include mechanical or electronic control means enabling the amplitude and/or the frequency of the vibration to be adjusted. For example, the control means may include a potentiometer or a rotary or linear switch enabling at least two speeds of rotation of the electric motor to be selected, when the vibrator includes such a motor.

The vibration source may also include more than one vibrator, and for example two vibrators arranged to produce oscillations in different directions. Under such circumstances, the applicator may also, for example, include a selector for selecting the vibrator (s) that is/are to be put into operation.

Where appropriate, the vibration source may be oriented by the user so as to cause the application element defining the application surface to vibrate with vibration of a desired orientation.

The vibration source may include an energy source other than a battery, and in particular it may include one or more rechargeable batteries or capacitors. The vibration source may be arranged in such a manner as to be suitable for being recharged with electricity when it is placed on a base. Where appropriate, the vibration source may be mains powered, optionally via a transformer.

The vibration source may be mounted in multiple ways in a corresponding housing of the applicator or of the packaging and dispenser device, and the way the vibration source is mounted may be designed in such a manner as to encourage vibration to be transferred towards the application surface or towards the grip surface, for example . By way of example, the vibration source is placed in the applicator with resilient damper means being interposed between the housing of the applicator and the vibration source. The damper means may for example comprise an elastomer gasket.

The vibration source may be carried on a user's finger, as described in application FR 2 904 923.

Examples of cosmetic kits for implementing the invention The kit 1 shown in Figure 1 comprises a container 2 containing the composition P of the invention, and an applicator 3 capable of being housed inside the container when it is closed by a closure cap 4. The applicator 3 has a grip portion 6 housing the vibration source 8 that includes an energy source 7 and an on/off switch 9. In this example, the vibration source 8 comprises an electric motor rotating a flyweight, however the vibration source could be made in any other way. The application surface 15 of the applicator 3 is defined, for example, by a skin 16 that may cover foam 17, as shown. In a variant, the applicator may include any other applicator element, e.g. a brush, a flocked tip, a sintered piece, or a wipe. The motor and the flyweight are contained in a housing 18 of the applicator in the embodiment shown.

The container 2 may optionally include a cup that contains the composition P, as shown in Figure 2. The cup may be secured in the container between the first and last uses. In the example of that figure, the composition P is contained in a cup 193 that is housed in a container 190 onto which the applicator 181 can be fastened.

By way of example, the applicator has an applicator element 182 that engages inside the container when the applicator is in place thereon. By way of example, the applicator example comprises a foam. The applicator element 182 comes into contact with the composition P present in the cup 193, the cup being pressed against the applicator element 182 by a resilient return member, e.g. a spring 191 that is interposed between the cup 193 and the bottom end of the container 190. When the vibration source 180 is put into operation, e.g. by pressing on the switch 183, the vibration that is transmitted to the applicator element 182 serves to disperse the composition P and to load the applicator element 182.

In a variant that is not shown, the vibration source forms part of a removable unit that enables it to be reused with another container.

It is also possible to mount a vibration source of the kind described in application FR 2 904 923 on a user's finger. The application surface may be defined by the end of the finger that comes into contact with the composition that is to be taken and applied, or in a variant by an applicator pad that is fastened on the finger.

In the variant shown in Figure 3, the kit 1 includes the composition P in the form of a stick that is movable relative to a casing 20 that defines a grip surface for the user while the composition is being applied to the keratinous material.

The kit 1 includes a vibration source 8 for causing the free surface of the block of composition P to vibrate, serving to apply the composition. By way of example, the vibration source 8 is situated on the kit 1 on the end remote from the surface 23.

The kit 1 may include any mechanism that makes it possible to move the stick relative to the grip surface, in order to compensate for the stick being used up. In the embodiment shown, the mechanism includes a slider 25. The kit 1 may also include a closure cap 4. The kit may be selected from amongst the devices described in application WO 2006/090343, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

Figure 4 shows a device 140 that includes a container 141 containing the composition P for application, and a vibration source 142 that is secured to the container 141 while said device is being used.

In the embodiment under consideration, the container 141 includes a neck 143 onto which there is mounted a support piece 144 for supporting a porous applicator member 145, e.g. a foam. A protective cap 147 may be screw-fastened on the support piece 144. On its end remote from the neck 143, the container 141 includes a bottom wall 150 that is extended downwards at its periphery by a tubular skirt 151 housing the vibration source. The vibration source comprises both an energy source, which is constituted by button batteries 152 in the embodiment shown, and an electric motor 153 that is suitable for rotating a fly-weight 154 about an axis of rotation Y that is substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis X of the container 141. A switch 160 makes it possible to switch the motor 153 on.

The housing defined by the skirt 151 and by the bottom wall 150 may be closed by a cover 162, e.g. that is screw-fastened or snap-fastened on the skirt 151. In the variant shown in Figure 5, the vibration source belongs to a removable vibrator unit 170, the skirt 151 being provided so as to enable the unit 170 to be mounted and removed, which unit may then be reused on another container 141 once the current container is empty.

By way of example, the applicator element 145 is a foam having open cells.

In the variant embodiment shown in Figure 6, the device includes a vibration source 180 that may optionally be fastened in removable manner on an applicator 181 carrying an applicator element 182 that is constituted by a foam, for example. The vibration source may be switched on by a switch 183 provided on an end face of the applicator.

In the embodiment in Figure 6, the applicator element 182 is loaded with composition P through a perforated wall 186 that separates a housing 187 receiving the applicator element when the applicator closes the container, from a space 188 containing the supply of composition. By way of example, the applicator is fastened on the container 190 by screw-fastening. In the variant shown in Figure 7, the device includes a removable reservoir 200 and an applicator 201 housing a vibration source 202. By way of example, the applicator 201 includes a shell that is provided at its center with a housing 204 for receiving the container 200 containing the composition P for application, which container may supply the composition, e.g. by capillarity, an applicator element 206 that is constituted by a foam, for example, or by any other porous element in which the composition may diffuse, e.g. a sintered element.

By way of example, the vibration source 202 includes an electric motor 203 that rotates a fly-weight 204 about an axis Y that is perpendicular to the axis X of the container 200, and an electricity source 208, and a switch, not shown.

Figure 8 shows an applicator 300 for applying a liquid composition P.

The applicator includes a container 301 in which a piston 302 is slidably mounted, making it possible to force the composition towards an applicator element 304 that, in the embodiment shown, is constituted by a flocked piece that is fed with composition via at least one internal channel 305.

The piston 302 is moved by a drive portion 306 on which a vibrator unit 310 may be fastened in optionally- removable manner. By way of example, reference may be made to US patents Nos. 6 688 317 and 5 879 095 which describe, in greater detail, drive mechanisms for driving a piston.

Composition

The compositions of the invention contain a total content of pigment (s) that is greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably a content lying in the range 22% to 65% by weight, and better a content lying in the range 25% to 55% by weight.

The compositions of the invention may be in liquid, paste, or solid form, e.g. pressed or cast in a cup, or in the form of a stick, or in the form of a powder that is pressed or loose.

In particular exemplary embodiments of the invention, the compositions of the invention are in liquid (fluid) form. In particular, they are in the form of an emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. In other exemplary embodiments, they are in the form of a "hot cast".

In the meaning of the present invention, the term composition in the form of a "hot cast" designates a solid composition that is obtained by cooling a composition that, while in its hot melted state, was cast into a mold. The composition may be cast in the form of a stick or in a cup.

In other particular exemplary embodiments, the compositions of the invention are in solid form. The compositions may be anhydrous or in the form of W/O or oil-in-water (O/W) , or even a gel, in particular an oily gel. Anhydrous compositions and W/O emulsions are preferable.

The term "anhydrous composition" designates a composition containing less than 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 2% by weight of water. Still more preferably, the composition has no water, with no water being added during preparation of the composition and any water present corresponding to residual water contributed by the ingredients that are mixed together. In particular, the skincare composition of the invention may be a tinted cream for the face or for the body.

The composition of the invention for making up keratinous material may in particular be a makeup composition for the skin, such as a foundation, in particular for application to the face or the neck, an antiwrinkle composition, a complexion corrector, a blusher, a makeup composition for the body.

Advantageously, it is a makeup composition for the skin . The compositions may include a powder phase, an oily phase, and possibly an aqueous phase.

Powder phase

The powder phase comprises at least the pigment (s) of the composition, and may also comprise at least one filler.

The term "filler" is used to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthesized, and insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is fabricated.

The fillers may be organic or inorganic, of any form, flakes, spherical, or oblong, and regardless of their crystallographic form (e.g. sheets, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.) . Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of polyamide

(Nylon®) , poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) , copolymers of acrylic acid, microbeads of silicone resin (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example) , particles of elastomer polyorganosiloxanes, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, e.g. zinc, magnesium, or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.

The filler (s) may be present in the composition with a total filler content lying in the range 0.1% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 1% to 70% by weight, and better in the range 1% to 60% by weight.

Pigments

A composition of the invention may contain at least one pigment at a content that is greater than or equal to 20%.

The term "pigments" is used to designate particles of any form, white or colored, organic or inorganic, that are insoluble in the physiological medium, and that are intended to color the composition.

The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic. Amongst inorganic pigments, mention may be made of: titanium dioxide, possibly with surface treatments; oxides of zirconium or cerium; and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red) , or chromium; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; and ferric blue; and metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

It may also be a pigment having a structure that may for example be of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. By way of example, such a pigment is sold under the reference NS or NJ Coverleaf by Chemicals and Catalysts.

Mention may also be made of a pigment having a structure that may for example be of silica-microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment presenting such a structure is the pigment sold by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, the pigment being constituted by silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Amongst organic pigments usable in the invention, mention may be made of: carbon black; D & C type pigments; lakes based on cochenille carmine, on barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum; or even diceto pyrrolopyrroles (DPPs) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731, and WO-A-96/08537.

As indicated above, the pigment (s) may be present in the composition at a total content that is greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 22% to 65% by weight, and better lying in the range 25% to 55% by weight .

In particular, the iron oxides may be present in the composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 3% to 50% by weight, and better in the range 5% to 40% by weight.

In particular, the titanium dioxide may be present in the composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 1% to 40% by weight, and better in the range 3% to 30% by weight .

Additional powder coloring materials

The powder phase may further include additional coloring materials such as nacres, pigments having an optical effect, and mixtures thereof. The term "nacres" means colored particles of any form, which may optionally be iridescent, as produced in the shells of certain mollusks, or which are synthesized, and which exhibit a coloring effect by optical interference .

Nacres may be selected from nacre pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, and nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be particles of mica on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring materials have been superimposed.

As examples of nacres, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment, or bismuth oxychloride. Amongst nacres that are available on the market, mention may be made of: Timica, Flamenco, and Duochrome (mica-based) sold by Engelhard; Timiron nacres sold by Merck; Prestige mica-based nacres sold by Eckart; and Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres sold by Sun Chemical;

More particularly, the nacres may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold, and/or coppery color or glint.

The term "material having a specific optical effect" means a material having an effect that is different from a simple conventional tint effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials such as monochromatic pigments, for example. In the meaning of the invention, "stabilized" signifies a lack of variability in color with the angle of observation, or even in response to a change in temperature.

For example, the material may be selected from: particles having a metallic glint; goniochromatic coloring agents; diffractive pigments; thermochrome agents; brightening agents; and fibers, in particular interference fibers . The additional powder coloring materials may be present in the range 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, in particular in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and better in the range 5% to 15% by weight.

Binder (oily phase)

The composition of the invention includes at least one liquid and/or solid oily phase, generally referred to as a binder.

In particular, a composition of the invention may include least one liquid oily phase, in particular at least one oil as mentioned below.

The term "oil" is used to designate any oily body in liquid form at ambient temperature (20°C-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The binder may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 3% to 70% by weight, and better lying in the range 5% to 60% by weight.

The oil(s) may in particular be selected from hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated oils.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. They may be animal, vegetal, mineral, or synthetic in origin.

In the meaning of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" designates an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that, on contact with the skin, is suitable for evaporating in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a vapor pressure lying in the range 0.13 pascals (Pa) to 40,000 Pa (10 ~3 millimeters of mercury (mmHg) to 300 mmHg) , and preferably in the range 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 mmHg to 100 mmHg) , and better in the range 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 mmHg to 10 mmHg) .

In the meaning of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" designates an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

In the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" designates an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" designates an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" designates an oil mainly comprising atoms of hydrogen and carbon.

The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and/or phosphorous, e.g. in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils

Volatile oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the commercial names Isopars® or Permethyls®.

As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicone oils, such as, for example: volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, and in particular those having viscosity of <8 centistokes (cSt) (8xlO ~6 square meters per second (m 2 /s) ) , and in particular having 2 to 10 atoms of silicon, better 2 to 7 atoms of silicon, these silicone oils optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils usable in the invention, mention may be made in particular of: dimethicones having viscosity of 5 cSt to 6 cSt; octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane; decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane; dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane; heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane; heptamethyloctyl trisloxane; heptamethyl disiloxane; octamethyl trisiloxane; decamethyl tetrasiloxane; dodecamethyl pentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcylopentane, and mixtures thereof.

In exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention may include volatile oil at a content lying in the range 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or in the range 5% to 70% by weight, or even in the range 10% to 60% by weight, and in particular in the range 15% to 50% by weight.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils may in particular be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated, and/or silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made in particular of:

• hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

• hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters; such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203) , triglycerides constituted by esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths lying in the range C4 to C36, and, in particular, Cis to C36, possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; said oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea butter, oils of alfalfa, of poppy, of Hokkaido squash, of millet, of barley, of quinoa, of rye, of candlenut, of passion flower, of shea, of aloe, of sweet almond, of peach kernel, of peanut, of argan, of avocado, of baobab, of borage, of broccoli, of calendula, of camelina, of canola, of carrot, of safflower, of hemp, of rapeseed, of cotton, of copra, of marrow seed, of wheat germ, of jojoba, of lily, of macadamia nut, of corn, of meadowfoam, of hypericum, of monoi, of hazelnut, of apricot kernel, of walnut, of olive, of evening primrose, of palm, of blackcurrant seed, of kiwi seed, of raisin seed, of pistachio, of Hokkaido squash, of pumpkin, of quinoa, of musk rose, of sesame, of soya, of sunflower, of castor, of watermelon, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois, or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810 ® , 812 ® and 818 ® by Dynamit Nobel;

linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and derivatives thereof, Vaseline, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane; • synthesized ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthesized esters, such as oils with formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 ≥ 10. The esters may in particular be selected from alcohol and fatty acid esters, e.g. cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, alcohols or polyalcohols octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propyleneglycol 2 diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, benzoates of C12 to Ci 5 alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acids, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, and octyl isononanoate, and hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

esters of polyols, and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate;

esters of dimeric diols and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ® , sold by Nippon Fine

Chemical and described in US patent application No. 2004- 175338;

copolymers of dimeric diols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as copolymers of dilinoleyl diol dimer and dilinoleic dimer and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G;

copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid and butanediol copolymer; • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2- octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; • C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and mixtures thereof; and

dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the trade name Cetiol CC ® , by Cognis; • oil of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass going from 400 grams per mole (g/mol) to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular, about 650 g/mol to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular, about 750 g/mol to about 7500 g/mol, and more particularly, lying in the range about 1000 g/mol to about 5000 g/mol. For an oil with a high molar mass that is suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of oils selected from:

lipophilic polymers;

esters of linear fatty acids having a total number of carbon atoms lying in the range 35 to 70;

hydroxylated esters;

aromatic esters;

esters of C24-C28 branched fatty alcohols or fatty acids; • silicone oils;

oils of vegetable origin; and

mixtures thereof.

fluorinated oils, possibly partially hydrocarbon or silicone oils, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones such as those described in document EP-A-847752; silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear, or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes including pendant and/or terminal alkyl, alcoxy, or phenyl group on the silicone chain, said groups each containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as the phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates; and

mixtures thereof.

Lipophilic structuring agent A composition of the invention may include at least one liquid oily phase structuring agent selected from a wax, a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof.

In the meaning of the present invention, the term "wax" designates a lipophilic oily compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa), that presents a reversible solid/liquid change of state, in particular having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 0 C, in particular greater than or equal to 55°C, and possibly being as high as 250 0 C, in particular up to 230 0 C, and better up to 120°C. By raising the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil so as to form a mixture that is microscopically uniform, but on the mixture returning to ambient temperature, the wax recrystallizes in the oil of the mixture. Wax may be present in the composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the oily phase, and preferably in the range 1% to 20%.

In the invention, melting point values correspond to the melting peaks as measured with the help of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), e.g. the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the supplier Metier, with temperature rising at a rate of 5°C or 10 0 C per minute. In the meaning of the invention, the wax may be a wax as generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. In particular, the wax may be a hydrocarbon, a silicone, and/or a fluorinated wax, optionally including ester or hydroxyl functions. The wax may likewise be of natural or of synthetic origin.

As non-limiting illustrations of such waxes, mention may be made in particular of:

waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin such as carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax;

inorganic waxes, e.g. paraffin, or microcristalline waxes, or ozokerites;

synthetic waxes including polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis; • silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made of, for example, silicone polyether waxes, alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicones having 16 to 45 carbon atoms; alkyl methicones such as C30-C45 alkyl methicone sold under the trade name "AMS 30" by Dow Corning;

hydrogenated oils that are concrete / solid at 25°C such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and fatty esters that are solid at 25°C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen;

and/or mixtures thereof.

In exemplary embodiments, the wax present in the composition of the invention may be completely or partially in the form of a powder, in particular a micronized powder, so as to make it easier to use while preparing the cosmetic composition.

Amongst waxes that are suitable for use in powder form, mention may be made in particular of carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the supplier Micro Powders and paraffin wax microbeads sold under the name Microease 114S® by the supplier Micro Powders. Such additional micronized waxes make it possible in particular to improve the properties of the composition while it is being applied to the skin.

The composition of the invention may include substituted polysiloxanes, preferably having a low melting point, e.g. substituted linear polysiloxanes essentially constituted (ignoring end groups) by motifs of formulae II and III, in respective molar proportions of m and n:

CK) in which: each substituent R is defined as above;

each R' represents independently a (linear or branched) possibly unsaturated alkyl, having 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, or an -X-R" group, where each X independently represents:

-O- ;

- (CH 2 ) a -0-C0-; and

- (CH 2 ) b -C0-0; a and b represent independently numbers that may vary over the range 0 to 6; and each R" represents independently a possibly unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 atoms of carbon;

m is a number that may lie in the range 0 to 400, and in particular in the range 0 to 100; and • n is a number that may lie in the range 1 to 200, and in particular in the range 1 to 100; with the sum (m+n) being less than 400, and in particular being less than or equal to 100.

These silicone waxes are known or suitable for being prepared using known methods. Amongst commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801, or 9810 (Goldschmidt) ; KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu); or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric) . Suitable silicone waxes may also be selected from compounds having the following formula (IV) :

R 1 -Si (CH 3 ) 2 -O- [Si (R) 2 -O-J 2 -Si (CH 3 ) 2 -R 2 (IV) in which:

R is defined as above; • R 1 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group having the following formula:

O O

-(CH 2 VC IlO-R" or —(CHj^-αCIlR" • R 2 represents an alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group having the following formula:

O O

— (CHa) 1 ^GaR' 1 or —(CS^-O-C-R 1 "

a and b represent numbers lying in the range 0 to 6; • R" being an alkyl having 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and

z being a number that may lie in the range 1 to 100.

Amongst silicone waxes of formula (IV), that are known compounds or that are suitable for being prepared using known methods, mention may be made in particular of the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434, and 2440 (Goldschmidt) ; or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker) .

In addition to the silicone wax and/or oil, the binder may include a silicone resin. Silicone resins are products of hydrolyzing and polycondensing mixtures of siloxanes having the formulae (R) 3 SiOCH 3 and Si (OCH 3 ) 4 , where R represents an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms .

These silicone resins are known and are suitable for being prepared using known methods. Amongst commercial silicone resins that are suitable for use, mention may be made for example of those sold under the names DC 593 (Dow Corning) or SS 4230 (General Electric) .

The silicone resin may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone binder.

A composition of the invention may also include at least one pasty compound.

The presence of a pasty compound makes it possible advantageously to confer improved comfort while the composition of the invention is being deposited on keratinous materials. Such a compound may advantageously be selected from lanolin and derivatives; optionally polymeric silicone compounds; optionally polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinylic polymers, in particular olefin homopolymers; olefin copolymers; hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers; linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylic esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, in particular, C2-C50 fatty acids or alcohol esters; and mixtures thereof.

Amongst esters, mention may be made in particular of:

• esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular, diglycerol esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerol have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12- hydroxystearic acid, in particular, like those sold under the trade name Softisan 649 by Sasol, or such as bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 ; arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non cross- linked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 5 O dicarboxylic acid or carboxylic polyacid, and a C2-C50 diol or polyol; aliphatic ester of esters resulting from the esterification of an ester of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid by an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from esterification of an ester of aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid by a polycaboxylic acid, said ester including at least two hydroxyl groups, such as Risocast DA-H ® and Risocast DA-L ® products; and mixtures thereof .

The structuring agent (s) may be present in a composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight of agent relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight.

Thickening agents Depending on the fluidity of the composition that is to be obtained, one or more thickening or gelling agents may be incorporated in a composition of the invention.

A suitable thickening or gelling agent for the invention may be a hydrophilic agent, i.e. an agent that is soluble or dispersible in water.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of: thickening polymers that are hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible . In particular said polymers may be selected from: optionally modified carboxyvinylic polymers, such as the products sold under the trade name Carbopol (CTFA [Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association] name: carbomer) by Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the trade name Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian or under the trade name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly cross-linked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; anionic acrylamide and AMPS cross-linked copolymers, in the form of a water in oil (W/O) emulsion, such as those sold under the trade name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the trade name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by Seppic; polysaccharidic biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucanes, derivatives of chitin and chitosan, carageenans, gellan gums, alginates, celluloses such as microcristalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof.

A suitable thickening or gelling agent for the invention may be a lipophilic agent. It may be organic or inorganic.

As lipophilic thickening agents, mention may be made for example of modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox) , modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with C 10 to C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, e.g. hectorite modified with di- stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, such as for example that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the supplier Elementis, or that sold under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by the supplier Rheox, or that sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the supplier Elementis.

By way of example, the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents may be: fully or partially cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the trade names KSG6 ® , KSG16 ® and KSG18 ® by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C ® and Trefil E-506C ® by Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC ® , SR DMF10 ® , SR-DC556 ® , SR 5CYC gel ® , SR DMF 10 gel ® , and SR DC 556 gel ® by Grant Industries, SF 1204 ® and JK 113 ® by General Electric; ethylcellulose such as those sold under the trade name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of the polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine, and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one esterified or amide-formed carboxylic acid terminal group with at least one monoalcohol or monoamine comprising 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such as those sold under the trade name Uniclear 100 VG ® by Arizona Chemical; galactommanans comprising 1 to 6, and in particular 2 to 4, hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted by an alkyl chain, optionally saturated, such as guar gum alkylated by Ci to Ce alkyl chains, and in particular Ci to C3 alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. Sequenced copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those sold under the trade name Luvitol HSB ® by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the trade name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co or of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixture of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane such as those sold by Penreco under the trade name Versagel ® such as for example, the butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer mixture and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960) .

Amongst the lipophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be made of: dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the supplier Chiba Flour; hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated castor oil; fatty alcohols, in particular C 8 to C 26 alcohols, and better C 12 to C 22 alcohols, such as for example mysrityl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol.

In exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention may include thickening agents at a content of active material lying in the range 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.1% to 20% by weight, and better 0.3% to 15% by weight. Compositions of the invention may also include at least one film-forming polymer.

Film-forming polymers The term "polymer" is used herein to designate a compound having at least two repetition motifs, and preferably at least three repetition motifs.

The term "film-forming" is used herein of a polymer to designate a polymer that is suitable on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent for forming a film that is macroscopically continuous on a medium, in particular on keratinous materials.

The polymer may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the oily phase, preferably in the range 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably in the range 0.5% to 40% by weight, even more preferably in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and still more preferably in the range 1% to 25% by weight. In exemplary embodiments, the film-forming organic polymer is at least one polymer selected from the group comprising :

film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil;

film-forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium, in particular, polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone oils or hydrocarbon oils; in exemplary embodiments, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles, surface stabilized by at least one stabilizing agent;

film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often called "latex"; in this instance, the composition includes an aqueous phase; and hydrosoluble film-forming polymers; in this instance, the composition includes an aqueous phase.

Amongst the film-forming polymers suitable for use in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, mention may be made in particular of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes .

More particularly, it may comprise polyurethane and/or polyamides.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the invention may include an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water. Water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water, or La Roche Posay water, and/or thermal water.

The aqueous phase may also include organic solvents that are miscible in water (at ambient temperature 20 0 C- 25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having 2 to 6 atoms of carbon such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having in particular 2 to 20 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 10 atoms of carbon, and more preferably 2 to 6 atoms of carbon, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 atoms of carbon) such as mono-, di-, or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ethers, or mono-, di-, or tri-ethylene glycol alkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ethers, and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may also include stabilizing agents, e.g. sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, and magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also include any hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickening agents, wetting agents, and mixtures thereof .

In particular, a composition of the invention may have an aqueous phase of content lying in the range 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in the range 5% to 50% by weight, and better in the range 10% to 45% by weight.

In other exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention may be anhydrous.

Naturally the quantity of such accompanying compounds may be adjusted by the person skilled in the art so as not to prejudice in any way the effect desired in the context of the present invention.

Additives

The composition of the invention may include at least one other usual cosmetic ingredient that may be selected in particular from: lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; hydrosoluble or liposoluble colorants; antioxidants; fragrances; preservatives; neutralizers; sun screens; vitamins; moisturizing agents; self-tanning compounds; antiwrinkle agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic agents; anti-pollution or free-radical scavenger agents; sequestering agents; film-forming agents; non-elastomer surfactant agents; dermorelaxing agents; soothing agents; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation; anti-glycation agents; anti-irritant agents; peeling agents; depigmenting, anti-pigmenting, or propigmenting agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or of keratinocytes and/or stimulating keratinocyte differentiation; agents acting on microcirculation; agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells; healing agents; and mixtures thereof.

By way of example, liposoluble coloring agents may be Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinolene yellow. By way of example, the hydrosoluble coloring agents may be beetroot juice and caramel .

The invention is illustrated by the following non- limiting examples.

Proposed examples

Example of an anhydrous foundation

Method of operation

The first raw materials of phase Al were mixed at a temperature of 67°C for 45 minutes (min) while stirring at 1000 revolutions per minute (rpm) in a big double- walled pot using a turbine (Raynerie) driven flow of oil so as to thicken phase Al .

The pigments of phase A2 were added into the mixture Al and the mixture was ground three times by means of a three-cylinder grinder. The ingredients of phase A3 were then added at ambient temperature and while stirring, then the ingredients of phase A4. Finally, the mixture was homogenized for 5 min.

The mixture was then packaged in a tube.

Applying makeup

The foundation was applied to each half of the face with an applicator as shown in Figure 1.

On the first half of the face, the applicator was used in vibrating mode, whereas on the other half, the same applicator was used without vibration.

It was observed that vibration makes it possible to spread and work the composition better.

The term "comprising a" is synonymous with "comprising at least one" and "lying in the range" should be understood as including the bounds.

The invention is not limited to the applicators shown .