The present invention relates to cosmetics, in particular for makeup and/or care purposes, and packaged in solid form.

In the meaning of the present invention, a composition is said to be in "solid" form when it presents hardness such that it does not flow under its own weight, in contrast with compositions that are said to be "fluid". Such a composition may in particular be in the form of a pressed powder or in the form of a casting, obtained respectively by pressing or by casting while hot into a mold and cooling down.

Such compositions generally comprise firstly a powder phase comprising in particular pigments and fillers, and secondly an oily phase acting as a binder, comprising fats, for conferring on the finished product: softness; the property of being emollient; and encouraging adhesion on the skin. Certain makeup compositions such as foundations, eye shadows, or face powder are in the form of a pressed powder, generally comprising both an oily phase, referred to as a binder, and a powder phase, comprising in particular pigments and/or fillers. There are numerous difficulties in preparing pressed powders since the final composition needs to be sufficiently uniform and compact to ensure that the finished product does not become fragmented, in particular as a result of impacts. Pressed powder must also present good aptitude for being taken so that the user can take the necessary quantity of composition for subsequent application on keratinous materials, in particular on the skin.

Unfortunately, pressed powders have the drawback of sometimes presenting poor aptitude for being taken, being difficult to disperse with a finger or using a sponge, and the user does not manage to take a sufficient quantity of composition to be able to apply makeup in satisfactory manner. This difficulty of dispersing the composition often leads to the user rubbing hard against the surface of the pressed powder in order to be able to take a larger quantity of the composition, however rubbing harder merely serves to harden the surface of the composition by making it smooth: the composition then becomes even more difficult to disperse. Furthermore, its softness and spreading properties are difficult for the user to perceive while applying the composition to the skin.

Similar problems arise with compositions in the form of castings, e.g. compositions that are cast while hot, which compositions need to be capable of dispersing while also being mechanically strong.

The invention seeks to facilitate the fabrication and the use, in particular the taking and/or application by a user, of solid cosmetics, in particular in the form of pressed powder or in the form of castings, and more preferably skin makeup in the form of a hot-cast foundation .

Exemplary embodiments of the invention provide a cosmetic kit comprising:

^• a solid cosmetic composition, e.g. in the form of a pressed powder or of a casting;

• an applicator enabling the composition to be taken by bringing an application surface of the applicator into contact with the composition; and

• a vibration source enabling one of the applicator and the composition to be caused to vibrate, at least while the composition is being taken by the applicator.

By means of the invention, it is possible to make the composition harder, thereby giving it greater strength to withstand being dropped if it is in the form of a pressed powder or greater ability to withstand pressure and high temperatures if it is in the form of a casting, but without that making the composition more difficult to take and/or to apply.

Vibrating applicators that are suitable for the invention are already known, e.g. from publications FR 2 882 506 or EP 1 842 520. Application FR 2 882 506 gives an example in which, while the composition is being taken, the applicator element is subjected to vibration from the vibration source, thereby enabling a more uniform load of composition to be obtained on the applicator element. In another example, the composition is a stick of lipstick that is subjected to vibration during application.

Application FR 2 904 923 describes a vibration source configured for mounting on a user's finger. That application provides the possibility of loading an applicator or the finger with composition, in particular when the composition is in the form of a pressed powder, by causing the applicator or the finger in contact with the powder to vibrate. It is possible to cause the source vibration to operate from the moment the composition is taken, e.g. for the purpose of improving the composition, and in particular for making it easier to disperse the composition when it is in the form of a pressed powder. The composition of the invention may be a makeup composition and/or a skin care product, and it may constitute a cheek rouge, an eye shadow, a face powder, a foundation, an anti-wrinkle care product, body makeup, a face or body care product, or a sunscreen. More particularly, but not exclusively, the invention relates to a foundation and in particular a foundation that has been cast.

Other exemplary embodiments of the invention provide a method of applying makeup and/or care product to keratinous materials, wherein a vibrating applicator is used to take a certain quantity of a solid composition in the form of a pressed powder or a casting prior to application by subjecting at least one of an application surface of the applicator and the composition to vibration, and wherein the composition as taken in this way is applied on the keratinous material. In particular, the solid composition in the form of a pressed powder presents hardness greater than or equal to 15 on the Shore scale, the solid composition in the form of a casting has hardness greater than or equal to 100 grams (g) , in particular hardness lying in the range 100 g to 1000 g.

In a particular implementation of the method, the applicator is also subjected to vibration while the composition is being applied to the keratinous material.

Vibration source

In accordance with the invention, the application surface and/or the composition is subjected to vibration, which vibration comes from a vibration source.

According to the invention, a suitable vibration source produces vibration that can be obtained in various ways, in particular mechanically, electronically, or electromechanicalIy .

The cosmetic kit shown in Figure 1 and described below includes a vibration source that enables vibration to be produced when taking and applying composition, the vibration being produced on an application surface that is to come into contact with the keratinous material while it is in use.

In general, the frequency of the vibration may lie in the range 5 hertz (Hz) to 10 kilohertz (kHz) , better lying in the range 100 Hz to 5000 Hz. In a particular implementation, the vibration frequency lies in the range 100 Hz to 1000 Hz, and in particular in the range 100 Hz to 300 Hz. The vibration source may comprise a vibrator made up of a motor and a flyweight that is rotated by the motor and that has its center of gravity located eccentrically relative to the axis of rotation. The motor may be powered electrically by an energy source such as, for example a cylindrical battery electrically connected to the motor via a switch.

The vibration source may include a vibrator other than an electric motor rotating a flyweight. The vibration source may in particular comprise any electromechanical, piezoelectric, pneumatic, hydraulic, mechanical, electronic, or electromechanical system capable of producing vibration. The vibration source may include vibration control means other than a simple on/off switch, and in particular it may include mechanical or electronic control means enabling the amplitude and/or the frequency of the vibration to be adjusted. For example, the control means may include a potentiometer or a rotary or linear switch enabling at least two speeds of rotation of the electric motor to be selected, when the vibrator includes such a motor.

The vibration source may also include more than one vibrator, and for example two vibrators arranged to produce oscillations in different directions. Under such circumstances, the applicator may also, for example, include a selector for selecting the vibrator (s) that is/are to be put into operation. Where appropriate, the vibration source may be oriented by the user so as to cause the application element defining the vibrating application surface to vibrate with vibration of a desired orientation.

The vibration source may include an energy source other than a battery, and in particular it may include one or more rechargeable batteries or capacitors. The vibration source may be arranged in such a manner as to be suitable for being recharged with electricity when it is placed on a base. Where appropriate, the vibration source may be mains powered, optionally via a transformer . The vibration source may be mounted in multiple ways in a corresponding housing of the applicator or the packaging and dispenser device, and the way the vibration source is mounted may be designed in such a manner as to encourage vibration to be transferred towards the application surface or towards the grip surface, for example .

By way of example, the vibration source is placed in the applicator with resilient damper means being interposed between the housing of the applicator and the vibration source. The damper means may for example comprise an elastomer gasket.

The vibration source may be carried on a user's finger, as described in application FR 2 904 923.

Examples of cosmetic kits for implementing the invention The kit 1 shown in Figure 1 comprises a container 2 containing the solid composition P of the invention, and an applicator 3 capable of being housed inside the container when it is closed by a closure cap 4. The applicator 3 has a grip portion 6 housing the vibration source 8 that includes an energy source 7 and an on/off switch 9. In this example, the vibration source 8 comprises an electric motor rotating a flyweight, however the vibration source could be made in any other way. The application surface 15 of the applicator 3 is defined, for example, by a skin 16 that may cover foam 17, as shown. The motor and the flyweight are contained in a housing 18 of the applicator. In a variant that is not shown, the container 2 may optionally include a cup that contains the composition P. The cup may be secured in the container between the first and last uses, or in a variant it need not be secured, as shown in Figure 2 and as described in patent application WO 2006/090343, incorporated herein by reference. In the example of that figure, the composition P is contained in a cup 193 that is housed in a container 190 onto which the applicator 181 can be fastened.

By way of example, the applicator has an applicator element 182 that engages inside the container when the applicator is in place thereon. By way of example, the applicator example comprises a foam.

The applicator element 182 comes into contact with the composition P present in the cup 193, the cup being pressed against the applicator element 182 by a resilient return member, e.g. a spring 191 that is interposed between the cup 193 and the bottom end of the container 190. When the vibration source 180 is put into operation, e.g. by pressing on the switch 183, the vibration that is transmitted to the applicator element 182 serves to disperse the composition P and to load the applicator element 182.

In a variant that is not shown, the vibration source forms part of a removable unit that enables it to be reused with another container.

The applicator may include any applicator element, e.g. a brush, a paint brush, a flocked tip, a sintered piece, or a wipe.

In a variant that is not shown, a vibration source of the kind described in application FR 2 904 923 is mounted on a user's finger. The application surface may be defined by the end of the finger that comes into contact with the composition that is to be taken and applied, or in a variant by an applicator pad that is fastened on the finger.

Composition

In accordance with the invention, the composition is in solid form. The term "solid" is used to mean that the composition presents hardness such that it does not flow under its own weight, as contrasted with compositions that are said to be fluid. Such a composition may in particular be in the form of a pressed powder or in the form of a casting, obtained respectively by pressing or by hot-casting into a mold and cooling. In particular, the composition may present hardness greater than or equal to 15 on the Shore scale if it is in the form of a pressed powder.

With a casting, the composition preferably presents hardness greater than or equal to 100 g, in particular hardness lying in the range 100 g to 1000 g, preferably lying in the range 200 g to 900 g, and still better, lying in the range 400 g to 800 g.

Protocol for measuring the hardness of a casting Hardness measurements are used by means of a TA-XT2 texture analyzer as sold by the supplier Rheo.

Hardness is considered in terms of the compression force (in grams) as measured when causing a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 3 millimeters (mm) to penetrate to a depth of 2 mm and at a speed of

1 millimeter per second (mm/s) into the casting at a temperature of 20 ⁰ C.

Protocol for measuring the hardness of a pressed powder With pressed powders, hardness is measured on the composition, generally in a cup, with the help of a Zwick type hardness meter.

Measurement consists in manually lowering a lever to cause a moving body that is connected to a force measurement system to move downwards. When the entire surface of the moving body is in contact with the sample, the hardness value is measured on a dial with a pointer.

The measurement is expressed on the Shore scale. The moving body is a metal needle having a diameter of 1 mm. Constitution

The composition is in the form of a pressed powder or of a casting.

The casting may be in anhydrous form or in the form of a solid emulsion. The solid emulsion does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature, in contrast with a conventional emulsion, and it is characterized in particular by the presence of one or more waxes in its liquid oily phase. The term "pressed powder" designates a mass of composition presenting cohesion that is associated at least in part with a pressing operation performed during fabrication .

The term "casting" is used to designate a mass of composition presenting cohesion that is provided by at least one of its ingredients solidifying during preparation. The composition may be cast while hot and then solidify as a result of cooling.

In preferred exemplary embodiments of the invention, the composition is in the form of a casting.

The composition of the invention is solid, i.e., at ambient temperature (20 ⁰ C), it does not flow under its own weight in a manner that is visible to the eye.

In the invention, the cosmetic composition may comprise a powder phase, a liquid oily phase, and possibly also at least one wax, in particular in compositions that are in the form of a casting, and also an aqueous phase, in particular in castings in the form of a solid emulsion. In particular, the powder phase comprises at least one filler and optionally at least one pigment.

The person skilled in the art knows how to adapt the contents of the powder phase, the oily phase, and the aqueous phase as a function of the form of the composition as selected from: a pressed powder; an anhydrous casting; and a casting in the form of a solid emulsion . Powder phase

The powder phase comprises at least one filler, and advantageously also at least one pigment, in particular for makeup compositions of the invention. The term "fillers" is used to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthesized, and insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is fabricated. The fillers may be inorganic or organic, of any form, flakes, spherical, or oblong, and regardless of their crystallographic form (e.g. sheets, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.) . Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of polyamide (Nylon®) , poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) , copolymers of acrylic acid, microbeads of silicone resin (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example) , particles of elastomer polyorganosiloxanes, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, e.g. zinc, magnesium, or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate. The filler (s) may be present in the composition with a total filler content lying in the range 0.01% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 1% to 95% by weight, and better in the range 3% to 94% by weight. With a pressed powder, the total filler content may lie in the range 0.01% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably in the range 1% to 85% by weight, and better in the range 1% to 80% by weight .

With a casting, the total filler content may lie in particular in the range 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably in the range 0.1% to 25% by weight, and better in the range 1% to 15% by weight.

Pigments The term "pigments" is used to designate particles of any form, white or colored, inorganic or organic, that are insoluble in the physiological medium, and that are intended to color the composition.

The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic. Amongst inorganic pigments, mention may be made of: titanium dioxide, possibly with surface treatments; oxides of zirconium or cerium; and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red) , or chromium; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; and ferric blue; and metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

Amongst organic pigments, mention may be made of: carbon black; D & C type pigments; and lacquers, in particular lacquers based on cochenille carmine, on barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum.

The pigments may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 0.5% to 65% by weight, and better lying in the range 1% to 60% by weight.

For a casting and for a pressed powder, when the composition is a makeup, the pigment content will generally lie in the range 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably in the range 5% to 30% by weight, and in particular 10% to 25% by weight. The composition of the invention may include an additional coloring material in powder form, other than the above-described pigments, and possibly selected in particular from nacres, and other interference pigments, flakes, and mixtures thereof.

The nacres may be selected from white nacres such as titanium-covered mica, or bismuth oxychloride, or from colored nacres such as titanium mica covered with iron oxides, titanium mica covered in particular with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type, and nacres based on bismuth oxychloride.

The nacre may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 0.1% to 40% by weight, and better lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight.

Binder The composition of the invention includes at least one liquid and/or solid oily phase, generally referred to as a binder.

In particular, a composition of the invention may include least one liquid oily phase, in particular at least one oil as mentioned below.

In particular exemplary embodiments, the liquid oily phase comprises an oil selected from volatile and nonvolatile oils of hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated type. The term "oil" is used to designate any oily body in liquid form at ambient temperature (20°C-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The binder may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 1% to 80% by weight, and better lying in the range 2% to 60% by weight. For a pressed powder, the binder content will generally lie in the range 0.1% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 0.1% to 10% by weight, and better lying in the range 0.1% to 8% by weight.

For a casting, the binder content, in particular the oil content, may lie in the range 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably lying in the range 20% to 60% by weight, and in particular 30% to 50% by weight.

Oil may be present in the binder at a content lying in the range 1% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably lying in the range 10% to 98% by weight, and better lying in the range 30% to 95% by weight.

The oil (s) may in particular be selected from hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated oils.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They may be animal, vegetal, mineral, or synthetic in origin.

In the meaning of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" designates an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that, on contact with the skin, is suitable for evaporating in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a vapor pressure lying in the range 0.13 pascals (Pa) to 40,000 Pa (10 ^~3 millimeters of mercury (mmHg) to 300 mmHg) , and preferably in the range 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 mmHg to 100 mmHg), and better in the range 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 mmHg to 10 mmHg) .

In the meaning of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" designates an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. In the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" designates an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" designates an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" designates an oil mainly comprising atoms of hydrogen and carbon.

The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and/or phosphorous, e.g. in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils

Volatile oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the commercial names Isopars® or Permethyls®.

As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicone oils, such as, for example: volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, and in particular those having viscosity of <8 centistokes (cSt) (8xlO ^~6 square meters per second (m ² /s) ) , and in particular having 2 to 10 atoms of silicon, better 2 to 7 atoms of silicon, these silicone oils optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils usable in the invention, mention may be made in particular of: dimethicones having viscosity of 5 cSt to 6 cSt; octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane; decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane; dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane; heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane; heptamethyloctyl trisloxane; heptamethyl disiloxane; octamethyl trisiloxane; decamethyl tetrasiloxane; dodecamethyl pentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcylopentane, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the volatile oil may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and better lying in the range 5% to 25% by weight.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils may in particular be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated, and/or silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made in particular of:

• hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; • hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters; such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203) , triglycerides constituted by esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths lying in the range C ₄ to C36, and, in particular, Cis to C36, possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; said oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea butter, oils of alfalfa, of poppy, of Hokkaido squash, of millet, of barley, of quinoa, of rye, of candlenut, of passion flower, of shea, of aloe vera, of sweet almond, of peach kernel, of peanut, of argan, of avocado, of baobab, of borage, of broccoli, of calendula, of camelina, of canola, of carrot, of safflower, of hemp, of rapeseed, of cotton, of copra, of marrow seed, of wheat germ, of jojoba, of lily, of macadamia nut, of corn, of meadowfoam, of hypericum, of monoi, of hazelnut, of apricot kernel, of walnut, of olive, of evening primrose, of palm, of blackcurrant seed, of kiwi seed, of raisin seed, of pistachio, of Hokkaido squash, of pumpkin, of quinoa, of musk rose, of sesame, of soya, of sunflower, of castor, of watermelon, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois, or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810 ^® , 812 ^® and 818 ^® by Dynamit Nobel; • linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and derivatives thereof, Vaseline, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;

^• synthesized ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; • synthesized esters, such as oils with formula

R1COOR2, in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R ₂ ≥ 10. The esters may in particular be selected from alcohol and fatty acid esters, e.g. cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl, stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, alcohols or polyalcohols of octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propyleneglycol 2 diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, benzoates of Ci ₂ to Ci ₅ alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acids, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, and octyl isononanoate, and hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

^• esters of polyols, and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate;

^• esters of dimeric diols and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ^® , sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US patent application No. 2004- 175338;

^• copolymers of dimeric diols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as copolymers of dilinoleyl diol dimer and dilinoleic dimer and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G;

^• copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid and butanediol copolymer;

^• fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2- octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol;

^• C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; and

^• dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the trade name Cetiol CC ^® , by Cognis;

• oil of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass going from 400 grams per mole (g/mol) to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular, about 650 g/mol to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular, about 750 g/mol to about 7500 g/mol, and more particularly, lying in the range about 1000 g/mol to about 5000 g/mol. For an oil with a high molar mass that is suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of oils selected from:

^• lipophilic polymers;

^• esters of linear fatty acids having a total number of carbon atoms lying in the range 35 to 70;

^• hydroxylated esters;

^• aromatic esters; ^• esters of C24-C28 branched fatty alcohols or fatty acids;

^• silicone oils;

^• oils of vegetable origin; and • mixtures thereof.

^• fluorinated oils, possibly partially hydrocarbon or silicone oils, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones such as those described in document EP-A-847752; • silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear, or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes including, pendant and/or terminal alkyl, alcoxy, or phenyl group, on the silicone chain, said groups each containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as the phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates; and • mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the non-volatile oil may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and better lying in the range 5% to 25% by weight.

Lipophilic structuring agent

A composition of the invention may include at least one liquid oily phase structuring agent selected from a wax, a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof.

A composition in the form of a casting of the invention includes at least one wax.

In the meaning of the present invention, the term "wax" designates a lipophilic oily compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 ⁵ Pa), that presents a reversible solid/liquid change of state, in particular having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ⁰ C, in particular greater than or equal to 55°C, and possibly being as high as 250 ⁰ C, in particular up to 230 ⁰ C, and better up to 120°C. By raising the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil so as to form a mixture that is microscopically uniform, but on the mixture returning to ambient temperature, the wax recrystallizes in the oil of the mixture. Wax may be present in the composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the oily phase, and preferably in the range 1% to 20%.

In the invention, melting point values correspond to the melting peaks as measured with the help of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), e.g. the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the supplier Metier, with temperature rising at a rate of 5°C or 10 ⁰ C per minute. In the meaning of the invention, the wax may be a wax as generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. In particular, the wax may be a hydrocarbon, a silicone, and/or a fluorinated wax, optionally including ester or hydroxyl functions. The wax may likewise be of natural or of synthetic origin.

As non-limiting illustrations of such waxes, mention may be made in particular of:

^• waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin such as carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax;

^• inorganic waxes, e.g. paraffin, or microcristalline waxes, or ozokerites;

^• synthetic waxes including polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis; • silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes ; mention may be made of, for example, silicone polyether waxes, alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicones having 16 to 45 carbon atoms; alkyl methicones such as C30-C45 alkyl methicone sold under the trade name "AMS 30" by Dow Corning;

^• hydrogenated oils that are concrete / solid at 25°C such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and fatty esters that are solid at 25°C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen;

^• and/or mixtures thereof.

In exemplary embodiments, the wax present in the composition of the invention may be completely or partially in the form of a powder, in particular a micronized powder, so as to make it easier to use while preparing the cosmetic composition.

Amongst waxes that are suitable for use in powder form, mention may be made in particular of carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the supplier Micro Powders and paraffin wax microbeads sold under the name Microease 114S® by the supplier Micro Powders. Such additional micronized waxes make it possible in particular to improve the properties of the composition while it is being applied to the skin.

The composition of the invention may include substituted polysiloxanes, preferably having a low melting point, e.g. substituted linear polysiloxanes essentially constituted (ignoring end groups) by motifs of formulae II and III, in respective molar proportions of m and n:

(IB) in which: ^• each substituent R is defined as above;

^• each R' represents independently a (linear or branched) possibly unsaturated alkyl, having 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, or an -X-R" group, where each X independently represents:

-O- ;

- (CH ₂ ) _a -0-C0-; and

- (CH ₂ ) _b -C0-0; a and b represent independently numbers that may vary over the range 0 to 6; and each R" represents independently a possibly unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 atoms of carbon;

^• m is a number that may lie in the range 0 to 400, and in particular in the range 0 to 100; and • n is a number that may lie in the range 1 to 200, and in particular in the range 1 to 100; with the sum (m+n) being less than 400, and in particular being less than or equal to 100.

These silicone waxes are known or suitable for being prepared using known methods. Amongst commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801, or 9810 (Goldschmidt) ; KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu) ; or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric) . Suitable silicone waxes may also be selected from compounds having the following formula (IV) :

R ₁ -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O- [Si (R) ₂ -O-J ₂ -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -R ₂ (IV) in which:

^• R is defined as above; • R ₁ represents an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group having the following formula:

O O

—- (GH^-C-O-R" or — (CH^-CKl-R" ^• R ₂ represents an alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group having the following formula:

O O

-(CH ₂ ^C-O-R" ¹ or —CQ%} _b -O-C"R ^!8

^• a and b represent numbers lying in the range 0 to 6; • R" being an alkyl having 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and

^• z being a number that may lie in the range 1 to 100.

Amongst silicone waxes of formula (IV), that are known compounds or that are suitable for being prepared using known methods, mention may be made in particular of the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434, and 2440 (Goldschmidt) ; or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker) .

The wax may be present in the composition in particular in the form of a casting of the invention at a content lying in the range 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 2% to 10% by weight, and better lying in the range 2% to 5% by weight.

In addition to the silicone wax and/or oil, the binder may include a silicone resin.

Silicone resins are products of hydrolyzing and polycondensing mixtures of siloxanes having the formulae (R) ₃ SiOCH ₃ and Si (OCH ₃ ) ₄ , where R represents an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms . These silicone resins are known and are suitable for being prepared using known methods. Amongst commercial silicone resins that are suitable for use, mention may be made for example of those sold under the names DC 593 (Dow Corning) or SS 4230 (General Electric) . The silicone resin may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone binder. A composition of the invention may also include at least one pasty compound.

The presence of a pasty compound makes it possible advantageously to confer improved comfort while the composition of the invention is being deposited on keratinous materials.

Such a compound may advantageously be selected from lanolin and derivatives; optionally polymeric silicone compounds; optionally polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinylic polymers, in particular olefin homopolymers; olefin copolymers; hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers; linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylic esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, in particular, C2-C50 fatty acids or alcohol esters; and mixtures thereof. Amongst esters, mention may be made in particular of:

• esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular, diglycerol esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerol have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12- hydroxystearic acid, in particular, like those sold under the trade name Softisan 649 by Sasol, or such as bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 ; arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non cross- linked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅ O dicarboxylic acid or carboxylic polyacid, and a C2-C50 diol or polyol; aliphatic ester of esters resulting from the esterification of an ester of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid by an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from esterification of an ester of aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid by a polycaboxylic acid, said ester including at least two hydroxyl groups, such as

Risocast DA-H ^® and Risocast DA-L ^® products; and mixtures thereof .

The structuring agent (s) may be present in a composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight of agent relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight.

Thickening agents The composition of the invention may also include one or more thickening or gelling agents.

A composition in the form of a casting of the solid emulsion type of the invention may include a hydrophilic thickening or gelling agent, i.e. an agent that is soluble or dispersible in water.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of: thickening polymers that are hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible . In particular said polymers may be selected from: optionally modified carboxyvinylic polymers, such as the products sold under the trade name Carbopol (CTFA [Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association] name: carbomer) by Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the trade name Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian or under the trade name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly cross-linked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; anionic acrylamide and AMPS cross-linked copolymers, in the form of a water in oil (W/O) emulsion, such as those sold under the trade name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the trade name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane /

Polysorbate 80) by Seppic; polysaccharidic biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucanes, derivatives of chitin and chitosan, carageenans, gellan gums, alginates, celluloses such as microcristalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof.

In compositions of the invention, in particular castings, it is also possible to use a lipophilic thickening or gelling agent, of inorganic or organic type.

As lipophilic thickening agents, mention may be made for example of modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox) , modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, e.g. hectorite modified with di- stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, such as for example that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the supplier Elementis, or that sold under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by the supplier Rheox, or that sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the supplier Elementis.

By way of example, the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents may be: fully or partially cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the trade names

KSG6 ^® , KSG16 ^® and KSG18 ^® by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C ^® and Trefil E-506C ^® by Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC ^® , SR DMF10 ^® , SR-DC556 ^® , SR 5CYC gel ^® , SR DMF 10 gel ^® , and SR DC 556 gel ^® by Grant Industries, SF 1204 ^® and JK 113 ^® by General Electric; ethylcellulose such as those sold under the trade name Ethocel ^® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of the polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine, and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one esterified or amide-formed carboxylic acid terminal group with at least one monoalcohol or monoamine comprising 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such as those sold under the trade name

Uniclear 100 VG (R) by Arizona Chemical; galactommanans comprising 1 to 6, and in particular 2 to 4, hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted by an alkyl chain, optionally saturated, such as guar gum alkylated by Ci to Ce alkyl chains, and in particular Ci to C3 alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. Sequenced copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those sold under the trade name Luvitol HSB ^® by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the trade name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co or of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixture of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane such as those sold by Penreco under the trade name Versagel ^® such as for example, the butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer mixture and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960) .

Amongst the lipophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be made of: dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the supplier Chiba Flour; hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated castor oil; fatty alcohols, in particular C ₈ to C ₂₆ alcohols, and better C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ alcohols, such as for example mysrityl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol. In exemplary embodiments, a composition of the invention, particularly in the form of a casting, may include thickening agents at a content of active material lying in the range 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.1% to 20% by weight, and better 0.3% to 15% by weight.

Compositions of the invention may also include at least one film-forming polymer, in particular for compositions of the invention that are in the form of a casting.

Film-forming polymers

The term "polymer" is used herein to designate a compound having at least two repetition motifs, and preferably at least three repetition motifs.

The term "film-forming" is used herein of a polymer to designate a polymer that is suitable on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent for forming a film that is macroscopically continuous on a medium, in particular on keratinous materials.

The polymer may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 0.3% to 25% by weight, more preferably in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and still more preferably in the range 1% to 15% by weight.

In exemplary embodiments, the film-forming organic polymer is at least one polymer selected from the group comprising:

^• film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil; • film-forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium, in particular, polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone oils or hydrocarbon oils; in exemplary embodiments, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles, surface stabilized by at least one stabilizing agent; • film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often called "latex"; in this instance, the composition includes an aqueous phase; and

^• hydrosoluble film-forming polymers; in this instance, the composition includes an aqueous phase.

Amongst the film-forming polymers suitable for use in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, mention may be made in particular of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes . More particularly, it may comprise polyurethane and/or polyamides.

It should be understood that the quantities of these auxiliary compounds may be adjusted by the person skilled in the art in such a manner as to avoid harming the effect that is intended in the context of the present invention .

Aqueous phase

The composition of the invention, in particular when present in the form of a casting of a solid emulsion, may include an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water. Water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water, or La Roche Posay water, and/or thermal water. The aqueous phase may also include organic solvents that are miscible in water (at ambient temperature 20 ⁰ C- 25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having 2 to 6 atoms of carbon such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having in particular 2 to 20 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 10 atoms of carbon, and more preferably 2 to 6 atoms of carbon, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 atoms of carbon) such as mono-, di-, or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ethers, or mono-, di-, or tri-ethylene glycol alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ethers, and mixtures thereof .

The aqueous phase may also include stabilizing agents, e.g. sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, and magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also include any hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickening agents, wetting agents, and mixtures thereof .

In particular, a composition of the invention in the form of a casting of the solid emulsion type may have an aqueous phase of content lying in the range 25% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in the range 25% to 45% by weight, and better in the range 25% to 35% by weight.

Other ingredients The composition may include other ingredients

(additives) of the kind usually used in cosmetics such as preserving agents, cosmetic active agents, hydrating agents, hydrosoluble or liposoluble coloring agents, UV filters, thickening agents, water, wetting agents, fragrances.

By way of example, liposoluble coloring agents may be Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinolene yellow. By way of example, the hydrosoluble coloring agents may be beetroot juice and caramel . Naturally, the person skilled in the art will take care to select any additives added to the composition of the invention so that the advantageous properties belonging intrinsically to the composition in accordance with the invention are altered little or not at all by the intended addition.

The composition of the invention may be a composition that is anhydrous, i.e. a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or indeed less than 0.5% of water, and in particular having no water, with water not being added during preparation of the composition but corresponding to residual water contributed by the ingredients that are mixed together.

The composition in the form of a pressed powder may be prepared by mixing ingredients in powder phase and then adding the oily phase while stirring, with the mixture then being ground, screened, and then poured into a cup and pressed.

The ground and screened mixture of the powder phase and the oily phase is pressed in a press, in particular by applying pressure lying in the range 0.5 megapascals (MPa) to 20 MPa, and preferably lying in the range 3 MPa to 15 MPa. The composition as obtained in this way is in the form of pressed powder.

The composition in the form of a casting may be prepared by hot mixing the ingredients of the powder phase, the oily phase, and where appropriate the aqueous phase for castings of the solid emulsion type, and then allowing the mixture to cool down in a mold.

The invention is illustrated by the following non- limiting examples. Examples

Unless specified to the contrary, the values in the examples below are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1: Pressed powder

The composition was prepared by mixing together all of the powders and then adding the binder (oils) thereto, the mixture then being ground and screened so as to obtain a uniform mixture. 9.5 g of the mixture was placed in a cup and then pressed under a pressure of 10 MPa (100 bar) .

Measuring hardness

Hardness was measured on the composition in the cup, using a Zwick type hardness meter.

This was done by manually lowering a lever to cause a moving body connected to a force measurement system to move downwards. When the entire surface of the moving body was in contact with the sample, the value of its hardness was read from a dial with a pointer. The measurement is expressed on the Shore scale. The moving body was a metal needle having a diameter of 1 mm.

The hardness of the pressed powder was 19 on the Shore scale.

Testing taking

A comparison was made between the quantities of the composition that were taken after six circular movements of an applicator as described in Figure 6 of patent application EP 1 842 520 and when used both with and without vibration.

The results are summarized in the following table:

The quantity taken when using vibration was slightly greater .

Example 2: Foundation cast while hot

TOTAL 100 ^!

Method of operation

The ingredients of phase A were weighed into a double-walled pot using a flow of oil heated to 95°C- 100 ⁰ C.

After phase A had been made uniform, the pigments were added and dispersed in the medium, followed by the talc.

The mixture was then cast into cups. Measuring hardness

Hardness was measured using a TA-XT2 texture analyzer sold by the supplier Rheo, acting on the cast foundation composition.

Hardness was measured as a compression force (in grams) measured while causing a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 3 mm to penetrate at 20 ⁰ C to a depth of 2 mm and at a speed of 1 mm/s.

The hardness of the cast foundation was 750 g.

Testing taking

A comparison was made between the quantities of the composition that were taken after six circular movements of an applicator as described in Figure 6 of patent application EP 1 842 520 when used both with and without vibration .

The results are summarized in the table below:

It can be seen that when vibration is used, the composition is easier to take.

Unexpectedly, the presence of vibration enables a larger quantity of composition to be taken.

Together, these results show that compared with use without a vibrating applicator, use with a vibrating applicator makes it easier to take a solid composition whether of the pressed powder type or of the hot cast type, with the results being best with a hot casting.

The term "comprising a" is synonymous with

"comprising at least one" and "lying in the range" should be understood as including the bounds. The invention is not limited to the applicators shown .