Ruijter, Jan c/o Paardewei, 5a (EH Breda, NL-4824, NL)
| 1. | A method for manufacturing a jacket such as a suitjacket or jacket of a costume wherein an outside of the jacket is at least partly provided with fabric with a pattern comprising at least a first plurality of mutually regularly spaced, separate, parallel stripes, characterized in that: a. when determining a direction of at least a part of a shoulder seam to be provided between a front shoulder and a back shoulder, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the back shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, while the position of the front shoulder and the back shoulder relative to the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided; and/or b. when determining a direction of the at least one part of a mirror seam to be provided between a facing and a collar, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the facing and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the collar and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided, while the position of the facing and the collar relative to the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided; and c. the shoulder seam and/or the mirror seam is provided. |
| 2. | A method according to claim 1, characterized in that in step a. after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder or the back shoulder, whereupon the front shoulder and the back shoulder are translated relative to each other such, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. |
| 3. | A method according to claim 1, characterized in that in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is translated relative to the front shoulder and/or the back shoulder such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. |
| 4. | A method according to any one of claims 1 3, characterized in that in step b., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, the position is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing or the collar, whereupon the facing and the collar are translated relative to each other, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided such, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided. |
| 5. | A method according to any one of claims 1 3, characterized in that in step b., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, the position of the at least one part of the mirror seam is translated relative to the facing and/or the collar such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the mirror seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided. |
| 6. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that further, the pattern comprises a second plurality of mutually regularly spaced, separate, parallel second stripes that have a different direction from the first stripes, wherein: c. when determining a direction olthe at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided between a front shoulder and a back shoulder, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the back shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, while the position of the front shoulder and the back shoulder relative to the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes and second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first stripes and second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided; and /or d. when determining a direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided between a facing and a collar, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the facing and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the collar and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided, while the position of the facing and the collar relative to the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the facing and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the collar link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided; and e. the shoulder seam and/or the mirror seam is provided. |
| 7. | A method according to claim 6, characterized in that in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder or the back shoulder, whereupon the front shoulder and the back shoulder are translated relative to each other, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided such that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. |
| 8. | A method according to claim 6, characterized in that in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is translated relative to the front shoulder and/or the back shoulder such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. |
| 9. | A method according to any one of claims 6 — 8, characterized in that in step b., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, the position is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing or the collar, whereupon the facing and the collar are translated relative to each other, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided such, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the facing and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the collar link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided. |
| 10. | A method according to any one of claims 6 — 8, characterized in that in step b., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, the position of the at least one part of the mirror seam is translated relative to the facing and/or the collar such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the mirror seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the facing and the collar that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the facing and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the collar link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided. |
| 11. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that d. the collar upright is oriented to the upper collar such that the first stripes of the collar upright and the first stripes of the upper collar link up with each other; and e. the upper collar is connected to the collar upright. |
| 12. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that f. the fabrics on both sides of at least a part of the central back seam to be formed are oriented such that, after providing the at least one part of the central back seam, the patterns on both sides of the at least one part of the central back seam are mirrorsymmetrical relative to each other with respect to the at least one part of the central back seam; and g. the central back seam is provided. |
| 13. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that h. the collar is oriented relative to the fabrics of the central back such that after providing the collar on the central back, the first stripes of the collar are in line with the first stripes of the central back; and i. the collar is connected to the central back. |
| 14. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that j. the left front and the right front are oriented relative to each other such that the patterns of these fronts are symmetrical while, optionally, further, the breast tucks at the left and right front are arranged symmetrically relative to each other. |
| 15. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that k. the patterns of a left and right lapel are arranged symmetrically relative to each other. |
| 16. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that 1. the side pocket flaps are oriented relative to the fronts such that after providing the side pocket flaps on the fronts, the first stripes of the side pocket flaps are in line with the first stripes of the fronts. |
| 17. | A method according to claims 1 and 14, characterized in that step a. and j. can be carried out combined. |
| 18. | A method according to claims 1 and 15, characterized in that step b. and k. can be carried out combined. |
| 19. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step b. is carried out after step a. |
| 20. | A method according to one or more of claims 1 — 10, 14 19 and according to claims 11 — 13, characterized in that the method step f. is traversed before method step h., the method step h. before the method step d., the method step d. before the method step a., and the method step a. before the method step b. |
| 21. | A method according to claims 17 — 20. |
| 22. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the angle that is included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is unequal to 90 degrees and/or that the angle that is included between the first stripes of the facing and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is unequal to 90 degrees. |
| 23. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the angle that is included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder has a value differing from 180 degrees and/or that the angle that is included between the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar has value differing from 180 degrees. |
| 24. | A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the angle that is included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided and the angle that is included between the first stripes of the back shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided link up with each other and/or that the angle that is included between the first stripes of the facing and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided, and the angle that is included between the first stripes of the collar and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided link up with each other. |
| 25. | A jacket obtainable according to a method according to any one of the preceding claims. |
The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a jacket such as a suit-jacket or a jacket of a costume, wherein an outside of the jacket is at least partly provided with a pattern comprising a plurality of parallel stripes.
For decades, the classic gentlemen's jacket and suit have been produced and sold according to specific traditional notions. In a sleeve, there are always the same sleeve slits, the breast pocket is always of the strip type, there are always two side-pockets and sometimes there is a ticket pocket. In the lining, one always finds inside pockets, often with an additional comb pocket and a cigarette pocket. When the jacket is made in a pattern comprising a plurality of parallel stripes, this may be a pinstripe fabric or chequered fabric, the same parts are always oriented to the stripe. The stripes of the flaps (side pockets) correspond to the stripes on the front, the stripes of the breast pocket correspond to the stripes of the front, the stripes of the collar correspond to the stripes of the back. Further, there is mirror symmetry of stripes on the lapels, the central back seam, and tucks on the front.
The object of the invention is to provide a method with which, furthermore, other parts of the jacket too are oriented to the stripe. To that end, the method according to the invention is characterized in that a. when determining the direction of at least a part of a shoulder seam to be provided between a front shoulder and a back shoulder, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the back shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, while the position of the front shoulder and the back shoulder relative to the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front
shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided; and/or b. when determining a direction of at least a part of a mirror seam to be provided between a facing and a collar, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the facing and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the collar and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided, while the facing and the collar are translated relative to each other on both sides of the at least one mirror seam to be provided such, and/or the position of the at least one part of the mirror seam relative to the facing and the collar is selected such, without changing the direction thereof, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided. c. the shoulder seam and/or the mirror seam is provided.
According to the method according to the invention, it is thus possible to have the stripes of the front shoulder and the back shoulder link up at the shoulder seam so that they continue, as it were. Here, the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder can include an angle which deviates from 180 degrees. It is also possible to have the stripes of the facing and the collar link up with each other at the mirror seam so that it seems that they continue. Here, the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar can include an angle which deviates from 180 degrees. According to a practical, further elaboration, it holds in particular that in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder or the back shoulder, whereupon the front shoulder and the back shoulder are translated relative to each other such, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder
seam to be provided, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided.
However, according to an alternative practical further elaboration it applies that in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is translated relative to the front shoulder and/or the back shoulder such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided.
For an optional, practical further elaboration it also applies that in step b., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, the position is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing or the collar, whereupon the facing and the collar are translated relative to each other such, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided.
However, an alternative possible further elaboration is that in step b., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, the position of the at least one part of the mirror seam is translated relative to the facing and/or the collar such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the mirror seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar link
up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided.
It further preferably holds that d. the collar upright is oriented to the upper collar such that the first stripes of the collar upright and the first stripes of the upper collar link up with each other; and e. the upper collar is connected to the collar upright.
In particular, it applies that the pattern further comprises a second plurality of mutually regularly spaced separated parallel second lines. These second lines can for instance be oriented perpendicularly to the first lines so that a chequered pattern or pattern with rectangles known per se is formed.
In that case, completely analogously to what is described hereinabove, a. when determining a direction of at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided between a front shoulder and a back shoulder, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the back shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, while the position of the front shoulder and the back shoulder relative to the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first and second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first and second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided; and/or b. when determining a direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided between a facing and a collar, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the facing and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between
the first stripes of the collar and the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided, while the position of the facing and the collar relative to the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the facing and the first and the second stripes, respectively, of the collar respectively, link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided; and c. the shoulder seam and/or the mirror seam is provided. Here, step a. can then be elaborated in two different manners. For instance, in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position can be determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder or the back shoulder, whereupon the front shoulder and the back shoulder are translated relative to each other such, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder, respectively, link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. Also, in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided can be translated relative to the front shoulder and/or the back shoulder such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both
sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. All this applies completely analogously to step b.
It further preferably applies that f. the fabrics on both sides of at least a part of the central back seam to be formed are oriented such that after providing the at least one part of the central back seam, the patterns on both sides of the at least one part of the central back seam are mirror- symmetrical relative to each other with respect to the at least one part of the central back seam; and g. the central back seam is provided; and/or that h. the collar is oriented relative to the fabrics of the central back such that after providing the collar on the central back, the first stripes of the collar are in line with the first stripes of the central back; and i. the collar is connected to the central back; and/or that j. the left front and the right front are oriented relative to each other such that the patterns of these fronts are symmetrical while, optionally, further, the breast tucks at the left and right front are arranged symmetrically relative to each other; and/or that k. the patterns of a left and right lapel are arranged symmetrically relative to each other; and/or that 1. the side pocket flaps are oriented relative to the fronts such that after providing the side pocket flaps on the fronts, the first stripes of the side pocket flaps are in line with the first stripes of the fronts.
It further applies that, preferably, first of all, step f. is carried out, then step h., then step d., after that the combined steps a. and £, then the combined steps b. and k. and, finally, the optional step 1. In general, it applies according to the invention that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the firsts stripes of the back shoulder can include an angle which deviates from 180 degrees. In particular, it applies that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder include an angle which deviates from 180 degrees. It is then that the special visual effect comes into
its own. It further applies according to the invention, generally, that the first stripes of the collar and the first stripes of the facing can include an angle which deviates from 180 degrees. In particular, it applies that the first stripes of the collar and the first stripes of the facing include an angle which deviates from 180 degrees. It is then that the special visual effect of the invention comes into its own.
All this will be further elucidated with reference to the drawing. In the drawing:
Fig. 1 shows a product drawing for fabric for making a coat such as a suit-jacket or a jacket of a costume;
Fig. 2.1 shows a part of the back of the jacket in which the central back seam is provided in a symmetrical manner;
Fig. 2.2 shows a manner in which the collar is provided;
Fig. 2.3 shows the manner in which the facing (lapels) is provided; Fig. 2.4 shows the manner in which the fronts and the tucks are provided; i
Fig. 2.5 shows the manner in which the side-pocket flaps are provided on the front;
Fig. 2.6 shows the manner in which the breast pocket is provided on the front;
Fig. 3.1 shows the manner in which the shoulder seam is provided according to the state of the art;
Fig. 3.2 shows the manner in which the shoulder seam is provided according to the invention; Fig. 4.1 shows the manner in which the mirror seam is provided according to the state of the art;
Fig. 4.2 shows the manner in which the mirror seam is provided according to the invention; and
Fig. 5 shows an example of a jacket that is manufactured according to the method of the invention.
In Fig. 1, reference numeral 1 shows a product drawing for fabric for making a coat such as a jacket or a suit-jacket. In this example, a jacket is involved. The product drawing comprises a drawing for a front 1, side part 2, inside sleeve 4, collar upright 6, collar 8, hemming side pockets 10, back 12, extra piece of fabric 14, facing 16, outside sleeve 18, flap side pockets 20, sleeve head (inside jacket) 22, and breast pocket 24.
Some parts, such as, for instance, the front 1 and the back 12 are cut twice from a fabric (once mirrored) with the aid of the drawing 1 so that, for instance, a left and right front are obtained and a left and right back, et cetera. Some parts, such as, for instance, the front 1, comprise an inside size 26 and an outside size 28. The inside size 26 is the actual front. The outside size 28 indicates that the front is cut out with a slightly larger size than required. The extra fabric can be used for shifting various panels a little relative to each other prior to sewing them together, so that the parts of these panels can be oriented to the stripe. The jacket to be manufactured is provided on an outside, at least partly, with a fabric with a pattern comprising at least a first plurality of mutually regularly spaced, separate, parallel stripes. For the sake of clarity, these stripes are not shown in Fig. 1. On the basis of the drawing according to Fig. 1, the parts of the jacket are cut out. This cutting can be done with the exact size as is indicated, for instance, for part 18. A part can also be cut out to block value which means that the part is cut out according to the outside size mentioned. In the example of the front 1 this means, that this part is cut out according to the outside size 28.
After cutting, the parts are oriented to stripe. This is done by hand, the parts are oriented and directly pinned on needles. After a bundle of one or more parts are pinned up, these are finely cut. The order of processing according to a possible embodiment of a method according to the invention is as follows.
First, the fabrics on both sides of at least one part of the central back seam 30 (see Fig. 2.1) to be formed are oriented such that after providing the
at least one part of the central back seam, the patterns on both sides of the at least one part of the central back seam are oriented mirror-symmetrically relative to each other with respect to the at least one part of the central back seam 30. In the example of Fig. 2.1, the entire central back seam 30 is provided symmetrically, and the stripes 30 are mirror-symmetrical on both sides of the central back seam 32. In this example, the central back seam 32 connects the left back shoulder 34 (the part of the left back at the left shoulder) to the right back shoulder 36 (part of the right back at the right shoulder). In this example, in fact, the central back seam interconnects the left and right back 12.
Together, the left back shoulder 34 and the right back shoulder 36 form the central back 38.
In the following, this first method step will be indicated as method step f. Then, in this example, a collar 40 is oriented to the central back 38 while simultaneously, it is ensured that the collar as such is symmetrical with respect to a line 42 that is in line with the central back seam 32. All this is shown on the basis of Fig. 2.2. Here, Fig. 2.2a shows the symmetrical collar as such, and it appears therefrom that the stripes are indeed arranged symmetrically relative to the line 42. Fig. 2.2b shows that the stripes 30 of the collar are in line with the stripes 30 of the central back 38. Here, it therefore holds that the collar is oriented to the fabrics of the central back in a manner such that, after provision of the collar on the central back, the stripes of the collar are in line with the stripes of the central back. In the following, this method step is indicated with method step b.
Then, the collar upright 44 is oriented to the collar 40. As shown in Fig. 2.3, as a result, the collar upright 44 can be shifted to the left or to the right in order that stripes of the collar upright come to lie in line with the stripes of the collar 40. To this end, the collar 40 is folded over at its top side.
The stripes located on the inside of the collar 40 are indicated in the drawing, as are the stripes of the collar upright.
Here, it therefore holds that the collar upright is aligned with the upper collar such that the stripes of the collar upright and the stripes of the upper collar link up with each other. This method step will be indicated hereinbelow as method step d.
Then, for instance the left front shoulder 46 (part of the left front at the left shoulder) is oriented to the right back shoulder 36. In this example, this orienting is done such that the stripes of the left front shoulder in the jacket run in vertical direction, while this also holds for the stripes of the left back shoulder 34. Then, the direction of at least one part of a shoulder seam 48 to be provided between the left front shoulder and the left back shoulder is selected such that the angle α, which is included between the stripes of the front shoulder 46 and the said part of the shoulder seam 48 to be provided, is equal to the angle β which is included between the stripes of the left back shoulder 34 and said part of the shoulder seam 48 to be provided. In Fig. 3.1, the said part of the shoulder seam 48 to be provided is indicated with the arrow 50. In Fig. 3.1 it holds that longitudinal edges of the front shoulder and back shoulder abut against each other (in this example under the plane of the drawing) while the shoulder seam is formed. After the direction is determined of the at least one part 50 of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and back shoulder, so that the angles α and β are established, the method can be continued in various manners. For instance, according to a first possibility, the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the left back shoulder 34 can be established as shown in the drawing. This position may be inspired by, for instance, the size and the design of the piece of clothing. Then, the front shoulder 46 can be translated relative to the back shoulder in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided such, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides
of the at least one part 50 of the shoulder seam 48 to be provided. This result is shown in Fig. 3.1.
When observing the situation in Fig. 3.2, where the angles a and b are unequal, it is clear that it is not possible, by shifting the back shoulder 46 in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam relative to the back shoulder 34, that the stripes will link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided.
Naturally, as a second option, it is also possible, when the angles α and β are chosen to be equal, that then, the position of the at least one part 50 of the shoulder seam to be provided is determined, firstly, relative to the back shoulder, whereupon the front shoulder and the back shoulder are translated relative to each other in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided such that the first stripes link up with each other on both sides of the at one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. Practically speaking, this relative translation of the front shoulder and the back shoulder can also be carried out such that this translation comprises a component in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided.
It is, however, also possible that after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is translated relative to the front shoulder and/or the back shoulder such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripe of the front shoulder and the first stripe of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. The position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided can therefore be translated relative to the front shoulder or back shoulder as well as relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder in a direction
perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam, more specifically so over a distance such that the stripes link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. In this manner, for instance, the position of the shoulder seam relative to the front shoulder can be established. By, thereupon, translating the back shoulder at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam (with this, the position of the at least one part 50 of the shoulder seam 47 to be provided is actually translated relative to the back shoulder while the position relative to the front shoulder remains the same) the stripes can start linking up to each other as indicated hereinabove. Conversely, it is also possible that the initial position of the shoulder seam relative to the back shoulder is established. Then, the front shoulder can be translated at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam (i.e. the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the back shoulder is translated) more specifically so over a distance such that the stripes on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided start linking up with each other.
Each of the methods mentioned has as a result that: a. when determining a direction of at least one part of a shoulder seam to be provided between a front shoulder and a back shoulder, this direction is selected such that the angle included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is equal to the angle included between the first stripes of the back shoulder and the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, while the position of the front shoulder and the back shoulder relative to the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the back shoulder link up with each other on both sides of
the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. Hereinafter, this latter will be indicated as method step a.
As appears from the drawing, in this example, the angle α has a value deviating from 90 degrees. It therefore also applies that the angle β has a value deviating from 90 degrees. The angles α and β are defined in the drawing such that they link up with each other. A result is that the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the left back shoulder include an angle which is unequal to 180 degrees (per definition an acute angle which, here, equals α + β) and therefore include an angle deviating from 180 degrees. It is then that a special visual effect is obtained. As appears from the drawing, also, within the framework of the invention, the angles α' = (180 degrees -α) and β' = (180 degrees -β) can be defined, for indicating the angle α' between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the said part of the shoulder seam, and for indicating the angle β' between first stripes of the back shoulder and the said part of the shoulder seam, respectively. In the drawing, the angles α' and β' are defined such that they link up with each other. Then too, it applies that the angle α' and the angle β' each have a value that deviates from 90 degrees and that the angle α 1 + β' (which is also an indication for the angle α + β which is included between the first stripes of the front shoulder and the first stripes of the left back shoulder) has a value that deviates from 180 degrees. Naturally, the angle α + β and the angle α' + β' can indeed be equal to 180 degrees. In this example, the angles α and β are each acute (and hence, the angles α' and β 1 each obtuse), but these angles can also each be obtuse (and hence the angles α' and β', each, be acute). The effect remains the same. This also appears from the example according to Fig. 4.
Completely analogously, the right front shoulder 52 (part of the right front at the shoulder) and the right back shoulder 36 are oriented to each other and the position and the direction of the shoulder seam between the right front 52 and the right back shoulder 36 are determined.
The left front and the right front too are oriented to each other such that the patterns of these fronts are symmetrical, while further, any breast tucks 54, 56 are provided in symmetrical relation on the left and right front. All this is indicated, together, as method step j. Then, for instance the left facing (lapel) 58 is oriented to the collar 40. All this is shown in Fig. 4.1. The collar 40 and the left facing 58 will be connected to each other by the so-called left mirror seam 60 (see also Fig. 2.3). To this end, the following method step b. is carried out. When determining a direction of at least a part of a mirror seam to be provided, in this example with a direction of the entire mirror seam 60 to be provided between the facing 58 and the collar 40, this direction is selected such that the angle γ included between the stripes of the facing and the at least one part of the mirror seam 60 to be provided is equal to the angle δ included between the at least one part of the mirror seam 60 to be provided, in this example the entire mirror seam 60, and the stripes of the collar 40. When, thus, the direction of the mirror seam is determined, which may already have been partly expressed in the pattern according to which the collar and the facing are cut out, the position of the facing and the collar relative to the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided is selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes of the collar and the first stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided.
Practically speaking, this may mean that after the direction is determined of the mirror seam 60, and the position of the mirror seam relative to the collar of the facing is established, the collar and the facing are shifted relative to each other in a direction of the mirror seam until the stripes link up with each other. Shifting relative to each other in other directions is possible too, while said shift has a component in the direction of the mirror seam.
It is also possible, after the direction is determined of the mirror seam relative to the facing and the collar, that the position of the mirror seam is translated relative to the facing and/or the collar at least in a direction perpendicular to the mirror seam such, without changing its direction relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar on both sides of the mirror seam link up with each other. This latter can then be done, after the direction is determined of the mirror seam relative to the facing and the collar, by choosing the position of the mirror seam relative to the facing to then, translate the position of the mirror seam relative to the collar at least in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the mirror seam until the said stripes link up with each other on both sides of the mirror seam. It is also possible to already select the position of the mirror seam relative to the collar to then, translate the position of the mirror seam relative to the facing at least in a direction perpendicular to the mirror seam until the first stripes of the facing and the stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the mirror seam. Such variants of methods are each possible and lead to a similar result. It is noted that in the variant discussed first, in which for instance first, the position of the mirror seam relative to the facing is chosen, whereupon the facing and the collar are translated relative to each other at least in the direction of the mirror seam, it is naturally so that, furthermore, when the said translation direction also has a component perpendicular to the mirror seam, it is in fact so that the position of the mirror seam relative to the collar is varied. Here, the method overlaps, at least partly, the method discussed hereinabove in which the position of the mirror seam relative to the collar is translated at least in a direction perpendicular to the mirror seam.
In Fig. 4.2, again, it is demonstrated that when the angle δ', the mirror seam and the stripes of the collar 40 is unequal to the angle γ', between the stripes of the facing and the mirror seam to be provided, it is afterwards not possible to select the position of the facing and the collar relative to the at
least one part of the mirror seam to be provided such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar link up with each other on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided.
As appears from the drawing, in this example, the angle γ has a value that deviates from 90 degrees. It therefore also applies that the angle δ has a value deviating from 90 degrees. In the drawing, the angles γ and δ are defined such that they link up with each other. A result is that the first stripes of the collar and the first stripes of the facing include an angle which is unequal to 180 degrees (per definition an acute angle which, here, is equal to 180 degrees ((γ + δ) and of which γ + δ is therefore a measure) and therefore include an angle differing from 180 degrees. It is then that a special, visual effect is obtained. Also, as appears from the drawing, within the framework of the invention, angles γ" = (180 degrees - γ) and δ" = (180 degrees - δ) can be defined for indicating the angle γ" between the first stripes of the facing and the said part of the mirror seam, and the angle δ" between the first stripes of the collar and the said part of the mirror seam, respectively. In the drawing, the angles γ" and δ"" are defined such that they link up with each other. Then, it also holds that the angle γ" and the angle δ" each have a value that deviates from 90 degrees and that the angle γ" + δ" (which, here, is equal to the acute angle that is included between the first stripes of the facing and the first stripes of the collar) has a value that deviates from 180 degrees. Naturally, the angle γ + δ and the angle γ"+ δ" can each, indeed, be equal to 180 degrees. In this example, the angles γ and δ are each obtuse (and hence the angles γ"and δ" are each acute) but these angles can also each be acute (and hence the angle γ"and δ" are each obtuse). The effect remains the same. This also appears from the example according to Fig. 2.
It is also ensured that the patterns of the left and right lapels are provided mirror-symmetrically relative to each other. This method step is indicated as method step k. All this is clearly visible in Fig. 2.3.
Then, as shown in Fig. 2.5, in a method step 1., the side pocket flaps are oriented to the fronts such that after providing the side pocket flaps on the fronts, the stripes of the side pocket flaps are in line with the stripes of the fronts. Then, also, the breast pocket flap can be oriented to a front in a manner such that after providing the breast pocket flap on the front, the stripes of the breast pocket flap are in line with the stripes of the front. This latter is shown in Fig. 2.6.
In the foregoing, a preferred embodiment of the method is shown in which also is indicated the preferred embodiment of the order in which the various method steps are to be carried out. In particular, it therefore applies that method step a. and method step j. can be carried out combined. It also applies that step b. and step k. can be carried out combined. Preferably, it also applies that step b. is carried out after step a. It also, preferably, applies that method step f. is carried out before method step h. It also preferably applies that the method step h. is carried out before the method step d. It also preferably applies that the method step d. is carried out before the method step a.
When, thus, the relative positions of the various parts of the jacket are determined, the various parts can be interconnected by sewing or stitching. Naturally, this sewing or stitching together of the various parts can also be carried out when, already, the relative position of two parts to be interconnected is established. For instance, the left front can be connected to the left back by means of the shoulder seam as soon as the relative positions of the two parts are established, and the position and the direction of the shoulder seam has been determined. However, another option is to interconnect these parts only when the position of all parts and the position
and direction of all seams to be provided are determined. Such variants are all understood to fall within the framework of the invention.
In the example, the starting point is a striped pattern. However, it is also possible that, in addition to at least a first plurality of mutually regularly spaced, separate, parallel stripes as described hereinabove, the pattern is also provided with a second plurality of mutually regularly spaced, separate parallel stripes that have another direction than the first stripes. This may for instance end up in a pattern of parallelograms, a pattern of rectangles or a chequered pattern. Completely analogously to what is described hereinabove, it can be ensured that the first stripes and the second stripes on a first side of the shoulder seam link up with the first and second stripes of a second side of the shoulder seam. More particularly it applies here that when determining a direction of the shoulder seam to be provided between for instance the left front shoulder and the back shoulder, this direction is selected such that the angle that is included between the first stripes 30 of the front shoulder and the shoulder seam to be provided is equal to the angle that is included between the first stripes of the back shoulder and the shoulder seam to be provided. All this is completely analogous to what is described hereinabove. If, thus, this direction is determined, then, also completely analogously to what is described hereinabove, the position of the front shoulder and the back shoulder relative to the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided can be selected such, without changing the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first and second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first and second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided. Here, it also applies that it is possible that in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one shoulder seam to . be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front
shoulder or the back shoulder, whereupon the front shoulder and the back shoulder are translated relative to each other such, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first stripes and second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided.
Further, is also applies here that is it possible that in step a., after the direction is determined of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, the position of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided is translated relative to the front shoulder and/or the back shoulder such, at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the shoulder seam, without changing the direction thereof relative to the front shoulder and the back shoulder, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the front shoulder and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the back shoulder link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the shoulder seam to be provided.
The method is therefore completely analogous to what is indicated for a pattern provided with only first stripes. Surprisingly, one can also succeed, in a manner completely analogous to that for a pattern with only first stripes, to also have the first stripes and the second stripes of a pattern provided with first and second stripes such as a chequered pattern, link up with each other on both sides of the shoulder seam. Completely analogously, it applies that in this manner, the direction of the mirror seam can be determined. More particularly it applies, that when determining the direction of the mirror seam to be provided between, for instance, the left facing and the collar, which direction is selected such that the angle that is included between the first stripes of the facing and the mirror seam is equal to the angle that is included between the first stripes of the
collar and the mirror seam to be provided. Then, the position can be determined of the at one part of the mirror seam to be provided relative to the facing or the collar, whereupon the facing and the collar are translated relative to each other such, at least in the direction of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the facing and the first and second stripes, respectively, of the collar link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided. It is also possible that, completely analogously to what is described hereinabove, when there are second stripes, the position of the at least one part of the mirror seam is translated relative to the facing and/or the collar at least in a direction perpendicular to the at least one part of the mirror seam such, without changing the direction thereof relative to the facing and the collar, that the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the facing and the first stripes and the second stripes, respectively, of the collar link up with each other, respectively, on both sides of the at least one part of the mirror seam to be provided.
All this can be carried out both for the left and for the right facing. The method is therefore completely analogous to what is discussed hereinabove on the basis of a pattern provided with only first stripes. In addition to the pattern comprising first and/or second stripes, it is also possible that the pattern further comprises other figures such as dotted lines, circles, triangles et cetera.
An example of a jacket manufactured according to the method of the invention is shown in Fig. 5. It is clearly visible in Fig. 5 that the stripes on both sides of the mirror seam link up with each other and that also, the stripes on both sides of the left shoulder seam link up with each other. The invention is not limited to the above outlined embodiments. For instance, the order of the method steps a. — h. can be varied. Also, sewing various parts together can be done directly after determination of the seam to be provided between two parts
or later, after the position of one or more other seams to be provided has been determined.