Non-colouring hair composition comprising a particular anionic copolymer of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, a water-soluble inorganic salt and an alkaline agent

The present invention relates to a non-co louring hair composition comprising at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the non-co louring hair composition, of at least one particular anionic copolymer, at most 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the non-co louring hair composition, of at least one water-so luble inorganic salt and at least one alkaline agent.

It also relates to its use for cleansing and/or conditioning human hair.

It is known to cleanse the hair with shampoos, which are aqueous compositions containing high proportions of surfactants. These surfactants are generally anionic surfactants, alone or in combination with amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants . The concentrations o f surfactants employed usually exceed 10% by weight, expressed as active materials.

These surfactants are for the mo st part aggressive towards the scalp and frequently lead to phenomena of irritation, reflected by redness or feelings of discomfort. These surfactants are also aggressive towards the eyes.

In addition, the rinsing of the compositions with these high contents of surfactants is often long.

Moreover, these surfactants degrade the cosmetic properties of the hair, leading to the need to add conditioning ingredients, such as cationic po lymers, silicones or non-silicone oils.

Finally, to avoid running on application and in particular running into the eyes, shampoos must be thickened. The thickening o f compositions containing high contents of surfactants is difficult and frequently poses stability problems. There is thus a need to have available compositions which make it possible to cleanse the hair while reducing or even eliminating the conventional surfactants which are the cause of these disadvantages .

Cosmetic compositions, in particular detergent compositions, containing copolymers of methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylate as stabilizer or suspension agent for water-inso luble ingredients, for instance silicones or fatty substances, are known. Such compositions have been in particular described in patent application WO 01 /76552.

Detergent cosmetic compositions comprising associative polymers have also been described in the prior art.

Associative po lymers are known in cosmetics . These are polymers which, due to their structure, have portions or groups which have the property of associating with one another or with the mo lecules or portions o f mo lecules of other compounds. These phenomena of associations are generally reflected by significant increases in viscosity. These associative polymers are thus used as thickening or viscosifying agents or as suspending agents . Such polymers, capable o f associating reversibly with one another or with other mo lecules, are known as associative po lymers . The forces o f interactions invo lved can be very different in nature, for example o f electrostatic nature, of hydrogen bond type or hydrophobic interactions. The use o f these associative po lymers above a certain concentration results in the achievement of a detergent power sufficient to make possible cleansing of the hair in the presence o f very small amounts of surfactants, indeed even in the absence of these surfactants . This is described in French patent application No . 2 935 267.

However, the compositions thus obtained, even if they make possible a detergency similar to that obtained with a conventional shampoo, still exhibit an insufficient foaming nature. In addition, the cosmetic properties conferred on the hair are still not entirely satisfactory, in particular on dry hair. The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the combination o f 2% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the non-co louring hair composition, of certain anionic copolymers as described below, with 0.01 % to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more water-so luble inorganic salts, and of one or more alkaline agents other than the water-so luble inorganic salts, made it possible to overcome the drawbacks mentioned above, and were in particular capable o f generating an adequate foam, in terms of quality and quantity, and o f giving the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, such as sheen, so ftness, smoothness, disentangling and suppleness, most particularly on dry hair.

A subj ect of the invention is thus a non-co louring hair composition comprising :

from 2% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, o f one or more anionic copolymers comprising, among their monomers, at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid, and at least one ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an alcoho l chosen from monoalcoho ls comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having a carbon-based chain o f more than 9 carbon atoms,

from 0.0 1 % to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more water-so luble inorganic salts, and one or more alkaline agents other than the water-so luble inorganic salts.

The compositions according to the invention are rinsed out faster than conventional shampoos . They intrinsically have a more pronounced treating nature and give the hair more lightness, in particular wet hair. They do not necessarily require the addition o f viscosity enhancers, and can afford varied textures. They are better tolerated by the scalp and the eyes. Another subj ect of the present invention is the use o f a composition according to the invention for cleansing and/or conditioning human hair.

Another subj ect of the invention consists of a method for cleansing and/or conditioning human hair, comprising the use of the non-co louring hair composition as described below.

Other subj ects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and examples which fo llow.

In that which fo llows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expression " at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

According to the invention, the non-co louring hair composition comprises :

from 2% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, o f one or more anionic copolymers comprising, among their monomers, one or more unsaturated carboxylic acids, and one or more esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an alcoho l chosen from monoalcoho ls comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having a carbon-based chain o f more than 9 carbon atoms,

from 0.0 1 % to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more water-so luble inorganic salts, and one or more alkaline agents other than the water-so luble inorganic salts.

The composition according to the invention is non-co louring. The term "non-co louring composition" is intended to mean, according to the present invention, a composition not containing a dye for keratinous fibres, such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005 %> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This is because, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, that is to say that no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratinous fibres.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" is intended to mean any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization o f monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and of a mono functional compound o f formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C 1 0 - C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group . All the compounds resulting so lely from the simple condensation o f an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcoho l, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine are in particular excluded.

Unless otherwise mentioned, the term " fatty compound" , for instance a fatty alcoho l, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, denotes a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The anionic copolymers that can be used in the composition o f the invention are copolymers comprising, among their monomers, one or more unsaturated carboxylic acids, which are more particularly α, β- monoethylenically unsaturated, and one or more esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, which is more particularly α, β- monoethylenically unsaturated, and o f an alcohol chosen from monoalcoho ls comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and oxyethylenated fatty alcoho ls having more than 9 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 30, even better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

More particularly, the unsaturated carboxylic acid, which is in particular α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated, is a monomer corresponding to formula (I) below: H ₉ C=C— C— OH

R O

(I) in which formula R ¹ denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , which corresponds to acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units.

Preferably, the other monomer which is an ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an alcohol chosen from monoalcoho ls comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and oxyethylenated fatty alcoho ls having more than 9 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 30, even better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, is a monomer o f formula (II) below : in which formula, R ¹ denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ Hs (i. e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH ₃ (methacrylate units), R ² denotes an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a -(CH ₂ - CH ₂ 0) _n -R ³ group, in which n ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, better still from 1 0 to 30, and R ³ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having more than 9 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 30 and even better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

As esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a fatty monoalcoho l comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms according to formula (II), mention may be made more particularly o f methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate and butyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate.

By way of esters o f an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyethylenated fatty alcoho l having a carbon-based chain of more than 9 carbon atoms according to formula (II), mention may more particularly be made o f oxyethylenated lauryl acrylate, oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate, oxyethylenated decyl acrylate, oxyethylenated isodecyl acrylate, oxyethylenated dodecyl acrylate, oxyethylenated behenyl acrylate and oxyethylenated palmityl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, oxyethylenated lauryl methacrylate, oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated decyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated isodecyl methacrylate, and oxyethylenated dodecyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate, and oxyethylenated palmityl methacrylate, the number o f oxyethylene units preferably ranging from 1 to 1 00, preferably from 2 to 50, better still from 10 to 30.

According to one embodiment, these anionic copolymers may be crosslinked, for example, with a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

Examples o f anionic copolymers as defined above, in particular derived from at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid and from at least one ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a monoalcoho l comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, are the crosslinked copolymer o f acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the trade name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas, which is as an aqueous dispersion containing 28 % by weight of active material, the methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate crosslinked copolymer in the form o f an aqueous dispersion at 30% by weight sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF- 1 Polymer by the company Lubrizo l, and the copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and o f a C 1 - C 4 alkyl (meth)acrylate sold under the name Synthalen W400 by the company 3V Sigma, at 30% by weight of active material in water.

When the alcohol is an oxyethylenated fatty alcoho l having a carbon-based chain o f more than 9 carbon atoms, the anionic copolymer of the invention is generally considered as an associative anionic polymer, that is to say an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, o f reversibly associating with itself or with other mo lecules ; such an associative po lymer type generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group .

Examples o f anionic associative po lymers as defined above, derived from at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid and from at least one ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having more than 9 carbon atoms, are those sold under the trade names Aculyn 88 (crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate polymer), sold by the company Rohm & Haas, Novethix L- 10 Polymer (crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate po lymer), so ld by the company Lubrizo l, Synthalen W2000 (acrylates/oxyethylenated palmityl acrylate copolymer), sold by the company 3V Sigma, and Rheomer 33 (Polyacrylate-33) which is an acrylates/oxyethylenated C 16 - C22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Rhodia.

In one particular embo diment, the anionic associative po lymers defined above also comprise an ester of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C 1 - C4 alcoho l as additional monomer. Mention may be made, as examples of this type o f compound, o f Aculyn 22, so ld by the company Rohm & Haas, which is an acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, and of Aculyn 28 , sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is an acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer.

Preferably, the anionic associative polymer(s) used in the invention is (are) chosen from crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate polymers, such as Aculyn 88 sold by Rohm & Haas.

Preferably, the anionic associative polymers as described above have a number-average mo lecular weight of less than 500 000 and more preferentially still o f less than 100 000, preferably ranging from 5000 to 80 000, which can be measured by methods such as cryo scopy, osmotic pressure, ebullio scopy or titration of the end groups.

The anionic copolymer(s) according to the invention is(are) present in the composition o f the invention in an amount ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 2.5 % to 40% by weight and better still ranging from 2.75 % to 25 % by weight, or even 3 % to 20%) by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water- so luble salt" is intended to mean a salt which has a so lubility in water at 25 °C of greater than 1 % by weight, i. e. which, at this concentration, forms a macroscopically homogeneous, transparent and isotropic medium.

The water-so luble inorganic salts that can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from water-so luble salts o f metals, in particular monovalent or divalent metals, and preferentially from water-so luble salts o f alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or else of ammonium, and of inorganic acids. More particularly, the monovalent metal salts o f inorganic acid(s), and better still the alkali or alkaline- earth metal salts, are used.

Preferably, chlorides or sulfates are used. Mention may be made in particular o f sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, ammonium chloride, magnesium sulfate and the sodium salts of phosphoric acid. Sodium chloride and sodium sulfate are particularly preferred.

The water-so luble inorganic salt(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5 % by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight and even better still from 0.5 % to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The non-co louring hair composition according to the invention also contains one or more alkaline agent(s) other than the water- so luble inorganic salts.

The term " alkaline agent" is intended to mean any agent for increasing the pH of the composition in which it is present.

The alkaline agent may be a Bronsted-Lowry or Lewis base . It may be inorganic or organic, preferably organic.

In particular, the alkaline agent(s) may be chosen from:

a) aqueous ammonia, b) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, and also derivatives thereof,

c) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, d) inorganic or organic hydroxides,

e) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates,

f) amino acids, preferably basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine,

g) carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of a primary amine, secondary amine or tertiary amine, or of an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or of ammonium, and

h) the compounds of formula (III) below:

Rx Rz

W N

^Ry (III) in which W is a Ci-C ₆ alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C ₆ alkyl group; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C ₆ alkyl, Ci-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or Ci-C ₆ aminoalkyl group.

Examples of such compounds of formula (III) that may be mentioned include 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from hydroxides of an alkali metal, hydroxides of an alkaline-earth metal, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI of the Periodic Table of the Elements, hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide.

The hydroxide may be formed in situ, for instance guanidine hydroxide, formed by reacting calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. The preferred alkaline agents are in particular aqueous ammonia, ammonium carbonate, sodium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, arginine and alkanolamines .

Even better still, the alkaline agent is chosen from organic alkaline agents, and mo st particularly from alkano lamines, in particular monoethano lamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol.

The alkaline agent(s) as defined previously may represent, for example, from 0.01 % to 5 % by weight, in particular from 0. 1 % to 4% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 %> to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can additionally contain one or more associative po lymers, which are amphoteric or non-ionic, preferably non-ionic.

The amphoteric associative po lymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, the ones that are preferred are those prepared from or comprising 1 mo l% to 20 mo l%, preferably 1 .5 mo l% to 15 mo l% and even more particularly 1 .5 mo l% to 6 mol% of fatty-chain monomer relative to the total number of mo les of monomers.

The term " fatty chain" should be understood to mean, according to the invention, a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms .

The amphoteric associative polymers that can be used in the invention comprise those that are prepared by copolymerizing :

1 ) at least one monomer of formula IVa) or (IVb) :

(IVa) FL

N

\

(IVb) in which:

Ri and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ₃ , R ₄ and R ₅ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom,

n is an integer from 2 to 5,

A ^" is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

2) at least one monomer of formula (V):

R ₆ — CH= CR ₇ COOH in which R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and

3) at least one monomer of formula (VI): e-CH= CR - COXR ₈ in which R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and Rs denotes a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain.

The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of:

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, - diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,

- dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl- acrylamide,

these monomers optionally being quaternized, for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The monomers of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 and more particularly Ci ₆ -Ci8 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The monomers constituting the fatty-chain amphoteric polymers of the invention are preferably already neutralized and/or quaternized.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges is preferably equal to about 1.

The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention preferably comprise from 1 mol% to 10 mol% of the monomer comprising a fatty chain (monomer of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI)), and preferably from 1.5 mol% to 6 mol%.

The amphoteric associative polymers may also contain other monomers such as non-ionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012. Among the amphoteric associative po lymers, the ones that are preferred are acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers .

The non-ionic associative po lymers which can be used in the invention are preferably chosen from:

( 1 ) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain. Mention may be made, as example, of:

- hydroxyethylcellulo ses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C 8 - C22 alkyl groups, such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 C S (C 16 alkyls) and Po lysurf 67 CS , which are sold by the company Ashland, or the product Bermocoll EHM 1 00, sold by the company Bero l Nobel,

- those modified by alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM- 1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol ( 15 ) ether) sold by the company Amercho l;

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210- 1 8 (C _{1 4} alkyl chain) and RE205 - 1 (C20 alkyl chain), sold by the company Rhodia Chimie;

(3) inulins modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as inulin alkyl carbamates and in particular the inulin lauryl carbamate provided by the company Orafti under the name Inutec SP 1 ;

(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, o f which mention may be made, as examp le, of:

the products Antaron V2 16 and Ganex V21 6 (vinylpyrro lidone/hexadecene copolymer), sold by the company ISP, the products Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 (vinylpyrro lidone/eicosene copolymer), sold by the company ISP;

(5) copolymers of C i -C ₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and o f amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the methyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer so ld by the company Go ldschmidt under the name Antil 208 ;

(6) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and o f hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the polyethylene glyco l methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

(7) polyurethane po lyethers comprising, in their chain, both hydrophilic blo cks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blo cks which can be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences;

(8) polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix compounds so ld by the company Sud-Chemie.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic blo ck, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic blo ck. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer can comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The po lyurethane po lyethers can be multiblo ck, in particular in triblo ck form. The hydrophobic blo cks can be at each end o f the chain (for example : triblock copolymer having a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer) . These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.

The non-ionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblo ck copolymers, the hydrophilic blo ck of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups . The non-ionic po lyurethane po lyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blo cks, hence the origin o f the name. By extension, the non-ionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers also include those, the hydrophilic blocks of which are bonded to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

Mention may be made, as examples of non-ionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers which can be used in the invention, of Rheolate 205 comprising a urea function, sold by the company Elementis, or else Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210 containing a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212 containing a C ₁₈ alkyl chain, from Akzo.

The product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas having a C ₂ o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, provided at a solids content of 20% in water, can also be used.

Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in aqueous/alcoholic medium. Mention may be made, as examples of such polymers, of Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244, sold by the company Elementis. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J, provided by the company Rohm & Haas.

The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the paper by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380- 389 (1993).

In one variant, use is made of a non-ionic associative polyurethane polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.

Such a polymer is in particular sold by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 30000 (INCI name: PEG- 136/Steareth- 100/HDI Copolymer).

According to another variant according to the invention, use may also be made of a polyurethane polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46 and Aculyn 44 [Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

When one or more amphoteric or non-ionic associative polymer(s), preferably non-ionic associative polymer(s), is (are) present, the amount thereof ranges from 0.01% to 20%> by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the non-colouring hair composition.

The compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants chosen from anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: - C0 ₂ H, -C0 ₂ , -SO3H, -SO3 ^" , -OSO3H, -OSO3 ^" , -H2PO3, -HPO3 ^" , -PO3 ^2" , -H2PO2, -HPO2 ^" , -PO2 ^2" , -POH or -PO\

Mention may be made, as examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfo succinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts ; and the corresponding non- salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 and preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts o f C ₆ - C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ - C24 alkyl po lyglycoside- citrates, C ₆ - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C ₆ - C24 alkyl poly glycoside-sulfo succinates .

When the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, it (they) can be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcohol salts, or the alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Mention may in particular be made, as examples o f aminoalcoho l salts, of mono-, di- or triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino- methane salts.

Use is preferably made o f alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts .

In a first variant, the additional anionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₆ - C24)alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ - C24)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form o f alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

Even better still, it is preferred to use in this variant (C ₁₂ - C ₂ o)alkyl sulfates, (Ci ₂ -C ₂ o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Even better still, sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide is preferred.

In a second variant, the additional anionic surfactants are chosen from surfactants bearing anionic groups chosen from -C(0)OH, -C(0)0-, -S0 ³ H and -S(0) ₂ 0-, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N- acyltaurates, acyl lactylates and N-acyl glycinates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 and preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

Most particularly, use may be made of (C ₆ -4o acyl)glutamates, better still (C ₆ - ₂ 4 acyl)glutamates, for instance the disodium cocoyl glutamate sold under the trade name Plantapon ACG LC by the company BASF, or (C ₆ -4o acyl)isethionates and better still (C ₆ - ₂ 4 acyl)isethionates, for instance the sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate sold by the company Innospec under the trade name Iselux LQ-CLR- SB.

Examples of non-ionic surfactants which can be used in the non-colouring hair composition according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, a-diols and (C _\ - C ₂ o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made o f condensates of ethylene oxide and o f propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units , polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, and in particular from 1 .5 to 4, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glyco l, (C ₆ - C24 alkyl)-mono- or -polyglycosides, N-(C ₆ - C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C _{1 0} -C _{1 4} alkyl)amine oxides or N- (C 10 - C 14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

The non-ionic surfactants that are particularly preferred are (C6- C24 alkyl)-mono- or polyglycosides.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants capable of being used in the present invention can in particular be derivatives o f optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines containing at least one anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made in particular of (C ₈ - C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ - C2o)alkylamido(C i -C ₆ )alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C ₈ - C2o)alkylamido(C i -C ₆ )alkyl- sulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products having the fo llowing respective structures (VII) and (VIII) :

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ - N ⁺ (R _b )(Rc)(CH ₂ COO ^" ) (VII) in which:

R _a represents a C 10 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a -COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

R _a ' -C ONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (VIII) in which:

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ^* ,

X ^* represents the -CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ ' , -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ ' group or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(CH ₂ ) _Z -Y' , with z = 1 or 2,

Y ^* represents -COOH, -COOZ ' , or the -CH ₂ -CHOH-S0 ₃ H or

-CH ₂ -CHOH-S0 ₃ Z ' group,

Z ' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcoho l, such as monoethanolamine, diethano lamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2 -amino -2 -methyl- 1 -propanol, 2 -amino -2 -met hyl- 1 ,3 -propanedio l and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

R _a' represents a C i o-C ₃ o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a - COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular o f C _{1 7} and its iso form, or an unsaturated C i v group .

These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way o f example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Mirano l® C2M Concentrate.

Use may also be made o f compounds o f formula (Villa) : Ra' -NH-CH(Y " )-(CH2)n-C(0)-NH-(CH ₂ ) n-N(Rd) (Re)

(Villa) in which formula:

Y " represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ " , -CH ₂ -CH(OH)- S0 ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ -Z " ;

Rd and R _e represent, independently o f each other, a C ₁ - C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group;

Z " represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

R _a " represents a C 10- C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a " - C(0)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (Villa), mention may be made o f the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB .

Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂ o)alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂ o)alkylamido(C i - C ₆ )alkylbetaines and (Cs-C ₂ o)alkyl amphodiacetates, the sodium salt o f diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from cocoylamidopropyl betaine, cocoyl betaine and cocoamphodiacetate.

When at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant is present, the non-co louring hair composition according to the invention preferably has a total content of anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants of less than or equal to 10% by weight, better still less than 8% by weight and even better still less than 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the total content may range from 0. 1 % to 10%) by weight, better still from 0.5 % to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 % to 8% by weight and even more preferentially from 1 .5 % to 7.5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant is present, the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s) to the total amount of anionic copolymer(s) as defined above is preferably less than 3 , better still from 0.01 to 2.8 and even better still from 0.05 to 2.5 , or even from 0. 1 to 2, and even more preferentially from 0. 1 to 2.2.

In one variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention is substantially free o f surfactants, i. e . it comprises less than 0.5 %) by weight, less than 0. 1 %> by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and more particularly it is totally free o f surfactant.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more copolymers other than the anionic copolymer(s) according to the invention, and than the additional associative polymers already mentioned, and which are in particular chosen from cationic or amphoteric polymers, and also blends thereof.

The term "cationic po lymer" is intended to mean any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups . Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main po lymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto .

The cationic po lymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average mo lar mass (Mw) o f between 500 and 5 x 10 ⁶ approximately and preferably between 10 ³ and 3 x 10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic po lymers, mention may be made more particularly of:

( 1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units o f the fo llowing formulae :

in which:

- R ₃ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group;

- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R ₄ , R ₅ and R ₆ , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- Ri and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family ( 1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family o f acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with Ci_C ₄ alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077 143 and 2393 573,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/ vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

vinylpyrro lido ne/methacrylamidopropyldimethyl amine copolymers, such as those sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl- methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,

preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci- C ₄ )alkyl tri(Ci-C ₄ )alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/ methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil may more particularly be used. This dispersion is so ld under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are so ld under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

(2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulo ses and cationic galactomannan gums . Among the cationic po lysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulo se derivatives grafted with a water-so luble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulo se ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made o f the po lymers so ld under the name Ucare Po lymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amercho l. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums o f hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group .

Cationic cellulo se copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-so luble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4 13 1 576 , and mention may be made o f hydroxyalkyl cellulo ses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch. The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 03 1 307, and mention may be made o f guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups . Use is made, for examp le, of guar gums modified with a 2,3 - epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for examp le, a chloride) . Such products are in particular so ld under the names Jaguar C 13 S, Jaguar C 15 , Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C 162 by the company Rhodia.

(3) Polymers composed of piperazinyl units and o f divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.

(4) Water-so luble po lyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bisunsaturated derivative, a bishalohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine or an alkyl bishalide or alternatively by an oligomer resulting from the reaction o f a bifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bishalohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bishalo acyldiamine, an alkyl bishalide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bisunsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mo l per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

(5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation o f polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly o f the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz. (6) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylenepolyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio of polyalkylenepolyamine to dicarboxylic acid preferably being of between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin in relation to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.

(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (PI) or (PII):

\\ C(R ₁₂ )-CH ₂

-(CH ₂ )t- CFL, C(R ₁₂ )-CH ₂ - -(CH ₂ )t- CR 12 I

H ₂ C CH ₂ ^ ^CH 2

^ (PII) N

(PI) N+ Y- I

10 ^R 11 ^R 10

in which:

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

- Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

- Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly o f the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homo logues thereo f o f low weight-average mo lar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

I ¹³ I 15

N+ - A ₁ - N+- B ₁ (PHI)

R ₁₄ ^X - Rie ^X - in which:

- Ri 3 , Ri 4 , Ri 5 and Ri ₆ , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C i _ ₄ hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or else Rn, Ri ₄ , Ri s and Ri 6 , together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or else R , Ri ₄ , R1 5 and Ri ₆ represent a linear or branched C i -C ₆ alkyl group substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R1 7-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

- Ai and B i represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^" denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

it being understood that A _{l s} R13 and R1 5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring. In addition, if Ai denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, Bi can also denote a (CH ₂ )„-CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ )„- group in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - and -[CH ₂ - CH(CH ₃ )-0] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bissecondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bisprimary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or else the divalent group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -S-S-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -;

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

-

in which R _ls R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and X ^" is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

A compound of formula (PIV) that is particularly preferred is the one for which R _ls R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ represent a methyl group and n = 3, p = 6 and X = CI, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

(9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (PV): R 18 R '2.0

in which:

- Ri8, Ri9, R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β- hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH group, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ri ₈ , R19, R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

- X ^" denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-

Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) Polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below: — CH ₅ — CH—

² I (B)

NH— C-H

I I

O

In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic po lymers are chosen from po lymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mo l% to 100 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mo l% to 1 00 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mo l% of units corresponding to formula (B) .

These po lymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydro lysis o f po lyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.

The weight-average mo lecular weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mo l, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mo l.

The cationic charge density o f these polymers may range from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.

The po lymers comprising units o f formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products so ld under the names Lupamin 9095 , Lupamin 5095 , Lupamin 1095 , Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

Other cationic po lymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates o f polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary po lyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those o f families ( 1 ), (2), (7) and ( 10) mentioned above.

Among the cationic po lymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic cellulo ses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulo se ether derivatives such as the products so ld under the name JR 400 by the company Amercho l, cationic cyclopo lymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homo logues thereo f o f low weight-average mo lecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrro lidone and o f vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C i - C4)alkyltri(C i - C4)alkylammonium salts; and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers, which may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition o f:

(i) one or more units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type,

(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and

(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (la) below :

in which Ri denotes H or CH ₃ and R ₂ is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH ₂ OH group . Preferably, said amphoteric po lymer comprises the repetition o f only one unit of formula (la) .

The unit derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type o f formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R ₂ is an amino group (NH ₂ ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (Ila) below :

in which:

- P 3 denotes H or CH ₃ ,

- P 4 denotes a (CH ₂ ) _k group with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;

- P 5 , P 6 , and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition o f only one unit o f formula (Ila) .

Among these units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (Ila), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R ₃ denotes a methyl group, k is equal to 3 , R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ denote a methyl group, and Y ^" denotes a chloride anion.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (Ilia) :

in which R ₈ denotes H or CH ₃ and Rg denotes a hydroxyl group or a -NH-C(CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -S0 ₃ H group.

The preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.

Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Its denotes a hydrogen atom and Rg denotes a hydroxyl group.

The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non- neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or inorganic base.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.

The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.

The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),

- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mo l% o f units derived from a monomer o f (metfi)acrylamidoalkyl- trialkylammonium type (ii), and

- from 1 mo l% to 20 mo l% and preferentially from 5 mo l% to 15 mo l% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) .

Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric po lymers consist so lely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyl- trialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) .

As examples of amphoteric po lymers that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/methylacrylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers . Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004 , under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are in particular so ld under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco .

As another type o f amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copo lymers based on (meth) acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 so ld by the company Nalco .

The composition according to the invention may comprise the additional cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5 % by weight, in particular from 0.05 % to 3 % by weight and preferentially from 0. 1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in any o f the galenic forms conventionally used, and in particular in the form o f an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoho lic, or oily so lution or suspension; a solution or a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the oil- in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multip le type; a suspension or emulsion o f so ft consistency of cream (O/W) or (W/O) type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or any other cosmetic form.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5 % to 98% by weight, in particular from 20% to 95 % by weight and better still from 50% to 95 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents that are liquid at 25 °C and 1 .01 3 x 10 ⁵ Pa, and in particular water- so luble, such as C 1 - C7 alcoho ls, in particular C 1 - C7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcoho ls, and C3 - C7 polyo ls and polyo l ethers, which may thus be used alone or as a mixture with water. Advantageously, the organic so lvent may be chosen from ethano l and isopropano l, and mixtures thereo f.

The pH of the composition, if it is aqueous, is preferably between 3 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 7.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from silanes such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) or octadecyltriethoxysilane (OTES), fatty substances such as C 12 - C30 fatty alcoho ls, fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, mineral, plant or synthetic oils such as a- olefins; silicones, ceramides, natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the polymers described above; antidandruff active agents, vitamins or provitamins; nacreous agents; preserving agents; and mixtures thereof.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions o f the present invention.

The compositions according to the invention may be, in a non- limiting manner, in the form o f products for washing human hair, in particular shampoos, conditioning products such as hair conditioners, or both.

The composition may be in the form of an already formed foam, or of an aerated or non-aerated cream. It may also be in the form of an aerosol, in combination with a propellant gas, preferably isopentane or a mixture containing isopentane.

A subj ect of the invention is also the use of the composition as defined previously for cleansing and/or conditioning human hair.

The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetically treating the human hair, in particular washing/cleansing and/or conditioning the human hair, which consists in applying, to the hair, an effective amount of a composition as described above and optionally in rinsing out.

The invention is illustrated by the examples that fo llow.

Examples

The compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts indicated are expressed as weight percentages of product in its existing form, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Exam les 1 -6

Detergent compositions with a foaming effect are obtained, which may be used for cleansing the hair, and which lead to good cosmetic properties on dry hair.

Exam les 7- 10

Detergent compositions with a foaming effect are obtained, which may be used for cleansing the hair, and which lead to good cosmetic properties on dry hair.