NOVEL COSMETIC USES OF DISPERSANT POLYMERS ASSOCIATED WITH AT LEAST ONE ACTIVE

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic uses of dispersant polymers, associated with at least one active. The present invention also relates to novel cosmetic compositions, notably make-up and optionally care cosmetic compositions.

Many grafted copolymers are used as dispersants or stabilizers of suspensions or emulsions. The main function of the backbone for this type of copolymer may be to be adsorbed on the surface in order to stabilize the particle or the substrate to be dispersed. And the grafts in a good solvent extend in the continuous phase so as to provide steric stabilization of the emulsion or of the suspension. This type of scheme prevails when in the case of emulsions, the copolymers used are amphiphlic copolymers with a hydrophobic backbone and hydrophilic grafts in order to meet the desired stabilization. For suspensions, the copolymers used may be amphiphlic copolymers or dual hydrophilic copolymers like super plasticizers used in cement.

In a first phase, the polymers were introduced into the cement in order to improve the application and handling properties. And in a second phase, they were also used for reducing the amount of water introduced into the cement slurries in order to improve the mechanical properties. This improvement corresponds to a decrease in the porosity of the cement in the solid state due to water introduced in excess.

Polymers of the polycarboxylate type are usually used in the fields of cement and for example they provide dispersant properties which are superior to those of sulfonates. For example, their complexing properties towards divalent and trivalent cations are clearly greater and by means of this phenomenon, they provide greater fluidity to cement and this for a longer period. The results obtained on the properties of the concrete encourage the use of polycarboxylates as superplasticizers.

These dispersant polymers to this day are used in the field of cements and have never been used for cosmetic applications.

Thus, an object of the present invention consists of providing novel cosmetic compositions comprising dispersant polymers.

Another object of the present invention consists of providing novel cosmetic compositions, free of wax, which may be formulated under cold conditions. Another object of the present invention consists of providing cosmetic compositions which do not change over time, allowing a smooth deposit.

An object of the present invention is more particularly to obtain a cosmetic composition having good application properties in terms of glidant and playtime (redeposition, retouching).

An object of the present invention is further to obtain a cosmetic composition having good water resistance.

An object of the present invention is further to obtain a cosmetic composition having good resistance to friction.

An object of the present invention is further to obtain a cosmetic composition having suitable and satisfactory texture.

An object of the present invention is further to obtain a cosmetic composition with very good dispersant properties.

An object the present invention is further to improve the availability of the active at the surface of the keratin material on which the cosmetic composition is applied.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- at least one active;

- at least one dispersant polymer comprising a main chain and at least one grafted side chain on the main chain,

said main chain stemming from at least one monomer comprising at least one α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and at least one function selected in the group consisting of the functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic salt and mixtures thereof;

said side chain including at least one linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said side chain being optionally substituted with a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

The present invention therefore relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising a specific dispersant polymer.

The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for make-up and/or for the care of keratin materials, notably eyelashes and eyebrows, in particular a mascara. The compositions according to the invention are notably intended for make-up of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, but also for a use in the care of skin.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are compositions for the makeup of lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, or foundation compositions. They may also be sunscreen compositions, anti-transpirant compositions or further anti-ageing compositions.

According to an embodiment, the water content of the compositions according to the invention is comprised between 5% and 60%, preferably between 8% and 50%, and preferentially between 10 and 40%, still more preferentially between 20% and 35% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Dispersant polymer

The dispersant polymers according to the invention consist of a main chain and of one or several grafted side chain(s) optionally substituted at its(their) end with an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant polymers consist of a main chain and of several grafted side chains optionally substituted at their end with an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.

Within the scope of the invention, and unless mentioned otherwise, the term of « main chain » encompasses the terms of « backbone chain » or « backbone » of the polymer. The main chain, comprising the greatest number of carbon atoms, differs from the side chains.

Within the scope of the present invention, the expression « chain (...) stemming from at least one monomer » means that said chain corresponds to the polymer obtained by polymerization of said monomer.

The dispersant polymers according to the invention are therefore also designated as « comb copolymers », the branches of the comb corresponding to the side chains (or pendant chains) consisting of grafts.

The main chain of the dispersant polymers according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid function or of an ester or salt of the latter. It may also comprise mixtures of these ester and salt functions.

The main chain may therefore comprise pendant functions COOH, COOAlk or COO X ⁺ , or mixtures thereof, wherein Alk represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and X represents an alkaline or earth alkaline metal, or X ⁺ represents a quaternary ammonium. By « alkyl group », is meant here a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising, unless indicated otherwise, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. As examples, mention may be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tertbutyl or pentyl groups.

Within the scope of the present invention the term of « quaternary ammonium » designates a cation obtained, notably by alkylation from an amine of formula NRi R ₂ R ₃ , each of the groups Ri , R ₂ and R ₃ , being identical or different, representing H or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. In particular the quaternary ammoniums according to the invention encompass the ammonium cation NH ₄ ⁺ .

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant polymers consist of a main chain and of several side chains grafted, substituted at their end with an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms, and preferably with a methyl group.

Within the scope of the invention, the expression « grafted side chain on the main chain » means that the side chain is connected to the main chain through a covalent bond.

For example mention may be made of chains of poly(ethylene oxide) and/or of polypropylene oxide) grafted by means of an ester function to the main chain, the ester function may result from the reaction between a carboxylic acid function of the monomer of the main chain and a hydroxyl function of the poly(ethylene oxide) and/or of the polypropylene oxide).

Within the scope of the invention, by « alkyleneoxy radical » is meant a radical -A'-O- wherein A' represents an alkylene radical. An « alkylene radical » is meant to designate a divalent radical derived from an alkyl group as defined earlier, lacking two hydrogen atoms. The alkyleneoxy radical may be linear or branched, A' therefore may represent a linear or branched alkylene radical, notably comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably the alkyleneoxy radicals comprise 2 or 3 carbon atoms.

For example mention may be made of the groups -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0- (ethyleneoxy), -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-0- or -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0- (propyleneoxy).

Within the scope of the present invention, the side chains of the dispersant polymers may comprise mixtures of alkyleneoxy radicals of different sizes. According to this embodiment, the side chain may comprise a mixture of radicals -(A' O) and (A' ₂ -0)-, ΑΊ and A' ₂ representing different linear or branched alkylene radicals. In particular, the side chain may comprise a mixture of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy radicals. The side chain (or the side chains) of the dispersant polymer may be substituted with a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferentially 1 to 2 carbon atoms.

According to an embodiment, the main chain of the dispersant polymer stems from at least one monomer selected from (meth)acrylic acids, their esters, their salts and mixtures thereof.

According to this embodiment, the main chain of the polymer is selected from poly(meth)acrylic acids, esters of poly(meth)acrylic acids, poly(meth)acrylates and mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the main chain of the dispersant polymer stems from a salt of methacrylic acid, notably sodium methacrylate. According to this embodiment, the main chain of the dispersant polymer is sodium polymethacrylate.

The dispersant polymers in addition to the main chain comprise one or several side chains, grafted on said main chain. In other words, the polymers according to the invention consist of a main polymeric chain comprising a given function (carboxylic acid, or a salt or ester thereof) via which the side chains are bound.

The dispersant polymers may be represented as consisting of a given number of recurrent units comprising recurrent units derived from (meth)acrylic acids from their esters, from their salts and from mixtures thereof, and grafted units, derived from the previous ones, comprising a graft including at least one alkyleneoxy radical as defined above, if necessary substituted with an alkyl chain as defined above.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer comprises at least one non-substituted side chain. Preferably, all the side chains of the dispersant polymer are non-substituted. By « non-substituted side chain », is meant a side chain as defined including at least one linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals and comprising a terminal hydrogen atom.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer comprises at least one side chain substituted with a methyl or ethyl, notably methyl chain. Preferably, the side chains of the dispersant polymer are substituted with a methyl chain.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer comprises at least one side chain consisting of ethyleneoxy, propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof. Preferably the side chains of the dispersant polymer consist of ethyleneoxy, propylenoxy radicals or mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the side chains of the polymer may be randomly, statistically distributed or in the form of sequences (block or sequenced copolymers). The dispersant polymers according to the invention may be block copolymers corresponding to the assembling of blocks with side chains on the one hand and of blocks without side chains on the other hand.

Preferably, the side chains of the dispersant polymer are randomly or statistically distributed. Preferentially they are statistically distributed.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer according to the invention is linear. In particular this is not a cross-linked polymer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersant polymer is a comb copolymer comprising a main chain of polymethacrylic acid (or one of its salts) grafted with polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide side chains.

According to an embodiment, the side chains comprises from 20 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150, and preferentially from 50 to 100 alkyleneoxy groups.

According to an embodiment, the side chain exclusively comprises ethyleneoxy groups.

According to an embodiment, the side chain exclusively comprises propyleneoxy groups.

According to an embodiment, the side chain comprises a mixture of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy groups, the latter being randomly or statistically distributed.

According to an embodiment, the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer ranges from 10,000 to 4,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 2,000,000 g/mol and even more preferentially from 30,000 to 1 ,900,000 g/mol.

Preferably, the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer ranges from 40,000 to 1 ,500,000, preferably from 42,000 to 1 ,000,000, preferably from 45,000 to 500,000 and still preferentially from 50,000 to 100,000 g/mol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer ranges from 20,000 to 300,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 200,000 g/mol and preferentially from 30,000 g/mol to 120,000 g/mol. Preferably, the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer ranges from 40,000 to 80,000 g/mol.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer ranges from 50,000 to 90,000 g/mol, preferably from 70,000 to 80,000 g/mol. Preferentially, the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer is equal to about 75,000 g/mol.

By selecting this suitable range of molecular masses it is possible to have a good compromise as regards a limitation of the depletion phenomena on the one hand and efficiency not sensitive to the concentration on the other hand.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer according to the invention fits the following formula (1 ):

wherein:

- n is an integer ranging from 50 to 4,000, preferably from 60 to 2,500;

- i is an integer ranging from 1 to n;

- the groups R',, either identical or different represent independently of each other, H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, and preferentially 1 or 2 carbon atoms; and

- the groups R,, either identical or different, are selected, independently of each other from the group consisting of: -C(=0)OH, -C(=0)0 ^" X ⁺ and -C(=0)0-(A) _p -R _a , at least one of the groups R, representing -C(=0)0-(A) _p -R _a , wherein:

- X is an alkaline or earth alkaline metal, notably Na or K; or X ⁺ represents a quaternary ammonium; R _a represents H or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4 and preferentially 1 or 2 carbon atoms;

- A represents a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof; and

- p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150.

The dispersant polymer according to the invention may therefore consist in the repetition of n units -Ch ChKR'iXRj)-, each of these units may be identical or different, according to the nature of R, and R', for each unit, and at least one of these units comprising a group -C(=0)0-(A) _p -R _a , corresponding to a grafted side chain.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- at least one active; and

- at least one dispersant polymer, wherein said dispersant polymer consists of two recurrent units (ΤΊ) and (T ₂ ), said recurrent units having the following respective formulae:

wherein:

- p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200;

- X is an alkaline or earth alkaline metal; or X ⁺ represents a quaternary ammonium;

- R _a represents H or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R and R', either identical or different, represent independently of each other, H or a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and

- A represents a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or their mixture.

The preferred dispersant polymers of the invention are prepared from two distinct monomer units corresponding to the recurrent units (Ti) and (T ₂ ). They do not comprise any other recurrent units.

Preferably, the recurring units (Ti) and (T ₂ ) are statistically distributed.

According to an embodiment, in the recurrent unit (T ₂ ), R _a is H, methyl or ethyl.

According to an embodiment, in the recurrent unit (T ₂ ), R _a is methyl or ethyl.

According to an embodiment, in the recurrent unit (T ₂ ), A is an ethyleneoxy radical, a propyleneoxy radical or mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer according to the invention comprises at least one recurrent unit 0Ί) and at least one recurrent unit (T ₂ ), said recurrent units being as defined above.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer consists of x recurrent units 0Ί) and y recurrent units (T ₂ ), these units being randomly or statistically distributed, preferably statistically distributed, wherein:

- x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3,000, preferably from 60 to 1 ,500; and - y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1 ,000, preferably from 5 to 600; the sum x+y corresponding to the number n defined above.

According to the invention, the recurrent units (ΤΊ) and (T ₂ ) may be randomly alternated in the aforementioned polymer.

According to the invention, the recurrent units (ΤΊ) and (T ₂ ) may be statistically alternated in the aforementioned polymer.

According to the invention, the recurrent units (ΤΊ) and (T ₂ ) may be distributed with blocks or sequences in the aforementioned polymer.

According to an embodiment, in the formulae (I), (ΤΊ) and (T ₂ ) defined above, X represents Na.

According to an embodiment, in the formula (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents H or a methyl group.

According to an embodiment, in the formula (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents H.

According to an embodiment, in the formulae (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents a methyl group.

According to an embodiment, in the formula (ΤΊ) defined above, R is H or a methyl group.

According to an embodiment, in the formula (I) defined above, the groups R', are H or a methyl group.

According to an embodiment, in the formula (T ₂ ) defined above R' is H or a methyl group.

According to an embodiment, in the formula (T ₂ ) defined above, the radical A fits the following formula (II) or (III):

(II) or (III)

wherein:

- represents a radical -CH ₂ CH ₂ 0- ;

- A ₂ represents a radical -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )0- ;

- j and k, either identical or different, represent independently of each other, an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25;

provided that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1 , and preferably greater than or equal to 50. According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer fits the following formula:

wherein:

- x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3,000;

- y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1 ,000; and

- p is an integer ranging from 20 to 200,

the units -CH ₂ -C(R)(C(=0)ONa)- and -CH ₂ -C(R')(C(=0)0-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) _p R'a)- being randomly or statistically distributed, preferably statistically distributed.

Preferably, the dispersant polymer fits the following formula:

wherein x, y and p are as defined above

the units -CH ₂ -C(R)(C(=0)ONa)- and -CH ₂ -C(R')(C(=0)0-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) _p CH ₃ )- being randomly or statistically distributed, preferably statistically distributed.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer is a copolymer stemming from methacrylic acid and from poly(ethylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.

According to another embodiment, the polymer is a copolymer stemming from methacrylic acid and from poly(propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer is a copolymer stemming from methacrylic acid and from poly(ethylene oxide) (propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate. The dispersant polymer according to the invention is for example described in document US 6,034,208 and is obtained by known methods, and notably by radical polymerization in a solution, in a direct or reverse emulsion, in a suspension or precipitation in solvents, in the presence of initiation systems and transfer agents, or further in a controlled radical polymerization and preferentially in polymerization controlled with nitroxides (NMP) or cobaloximes, in atom transfer radical polymerization (ATRP), in radical polymerization controlled by sulfur-containing derivatives, selected from carbamates, dithioesters or trithiocarbonates (RAFT) or xanthates.

It may be completely or partly neutralized by one or several neutralization agents having a monovalent or polyvalent cation, said agents being preferentially selected from ammonia or from calcium, magnesium hydroxides and/or oxides, or from sodium, potassium, lithium hydroxides or from aliphatic and/or cyclic primary, secondary or tertiary amines such as preferentially stearylamine, ethanolamines, (mono-, di-, tri-ethanolamine), mono and di-ethylamine, cyclohexylamine, methylcyclohexylamine amino methyl propanol, morpholine, and preferentially in that the neutralization agent is selected from tri-ethanolamine and sodium hydroxide.

It may also be separated into several phases, according to static or dynamic methods, with one or several polar solvents preferentially belonging to the group consisting of water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanols, acetone, tetrhydrofurane or mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymers according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the dispersant polymers according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of active materials based on the weight of the total composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersant polymer content according to the invention is comprised between 0.2% and 2.5% by weight of active material.

These preferred amounts of dispersant polymer thus make possible the preparation of an emulsion and/or dispersion without necessarily adding any additional emulsifying and/or dispersing compound.

According to an embodiment, the dispersant polymer is water-soluble. In the present invention, the dispersant polymer is not in the form of nanoparticles.

In the present invention, the dispersant polymer is not adsorbed on the surface in order to stabilize the particle or the substrate to be dispersed. It is not covalently bonded to particles present in the cosmetic composition. Such dispersant polymer is thus not used for treating the surface of solid particles to be dispersed.

In the present invention, the dispersant polymer is used as the main dispersant and thus allows the formation of an emulsion and/or dispersion by itself. In particular, this dispersant polymer acts as a dispersant of particles such as pigments or fillers present in the cosmetic composition.

Preferably, the dispersant polymer of the invention is used in an aqueous solution, and not in the form of a dispersion. According to the invention, the dispersant polymer of the invention is not in the form of a dispersion of particles in a non-aqueous medium.

Physiologically acceptable medium

In addition to the dispersant polymer indicated earlier, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

A « physiologically acceptable medium » is meant to designate a medium particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention on keratin materials.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition should be applied, as well as to the aspect under which the composition should be conditioned.

Actives

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active preferably selected from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmentation agents, anti-transpirant agents and/or anti-ageing agents.

The compositions according to the invention may therefore comprise a single active or a mixture of several actives.

The invention also relates to a method for care of lips comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on lips.

The invention also relates to a method for care of the skin comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on the skin. According to an embodiment, compositions according to the invention comprise at least one water-insoluble active.

Moisturizing agents

According to an embodiment, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent (also called a humectant).

As humectants or moisturizers, mention may notably be made of sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols preferably C ₂ -C ₈ alcohols, and even more preferably C ₃ -C ₆ alcohols, such as preferably glycerol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives notably Hydrovance ( 2-hydroxyethyl urea ) marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acids, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra marked under the name of Moist 24 by Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers like Lipidure-HM ^® from NOF Corporation beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passiflora, apricot, corn, and rice bran marketed by Nestle under the name of NutraLipids ^® ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in the application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution with 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product made by CHIMEX under the trade name « MEXORYL SBB ^® » ; a rosehip oil marketed by Nestle; an extract of the micro-alga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc marketed by Vincience under the name of Algualane Zinc ^® ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origine (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name of marine filling spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

Preferably, a moisturizing agent will be used selected from glycerol, urea and its derivatives notably Hydrovance ^® marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid homopolymers such as Lipidure-HM ^® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passiflora, apricot, corn oils and rice bran marketed by Nestle under the name of NutraLipids ^® ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in the application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution with 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product made by CHIMEX under the trade name « MEXORYL SBB ^® » ; a rosehip oil marketed by Nestle; an extract of the micro-alga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, marketed by Vincience under the name of Algualane Zinc ^® ; spheres of collagene and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name of marine filling spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

Healing agents

The active may also be selected from healing agents.

As examples of healing agents, mention may notably be made of allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine and also extracts of white lilly (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), an extract of yeasts such as the healing agent LS LO/7225B from Laboratoires Seriobiologiques) (Cognis), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes ^® TRF ^® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extracts such as GP4G ^® from Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavadin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, Rosa rugosa oil, calendula extracts such as Souci Ami ^® Liposoluble from Alban Muller, horsetail extracts, lemon peel extracts such as Lemon Herbasol ^® from Cosmetochem, helichrysium extracts, yarrow extracts, folic acid, beta-glucans and derivatives, shea butter and its purified fractions, modified exopolysaccharides and alkyl-sulfonated polyaminosaccharides.

Anti-ageing agents

The active may also be selected from anti-ageing agents, i.e. notably having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier, anti-glycation agents, actives stimulating the energy metabolism of cells and mixtures thereof.

The agent having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier may be selected from an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Venuceane ^® from Sederma, wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) extracts such as Actigen Y ^® from Active Organics, plankton extracts like Omega plankton ^® from Secma, yeast extracts such as Relipidium ^® from Coletica, a chestnut extract such as Recoverine ^® from Silab, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen ^® from Gattefosse, sphingosines like salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name of « Phytosphingosine ^® SLC » by Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and of xylitan such as Aquaxy ^® from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence ^® from Coletica and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also further be notably be made of ceramides, compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and derivatives of chromone and mixtures thereof.

As preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier, mention will be made of an extract of Thermus thermophilus, a wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) rhizome extract, a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract and mixtures thereof.

By « anti-glycation agent », is meant a compound preventing and/or reducing glycation of the proteins of the skin, notably proteins of the dermis, such as collagen.

Examples of anti-glycation agents are the plant extracts from the family of Ericaceae, such as a blueberry extract ( Vaccinium angusfifollium), for example the one sold under the name of « BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG » by

COSMETOCHEM, ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3',5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in the applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, polypeptides of arginine and of lysine like the ones sold under the name of « AMADORINE ^® » by SOLABIA, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name of « AUSTIN ^® »), an extract of Helianthus annulus extract like Antiglyskin ^® from Silab, wine extracts such as the powdery white wine extract on a maltodextrin support sold under the name of « Dehydrated white wine 2F » by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha-lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen like Aglycal LS 8777 ^® from Laboratoires Seriobiologiques, a black tea extract such as Kombuchka ^® from Sederma and mixtures thereof.

The active stimulating the energy metabolism of cells may for example be selected from a biotin, a Saccharomyces cerevisaie extract such as Phosphovital ^® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magenesium salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid like as Physiogenyl ^® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc, copper and magnesium gluconate such as Sepitonic M3 ^® from Seppic and mixtures thereof.

The actives applied in the compositions according to the invention may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic active, selected from moisturizers, healing agents and anti-ageing agents.

Indeed, the composition according to the invention comprises water, the latter particularly lends itself to the introduction of hydrophilic actives in the composition, in particular without any problems of stability of the composition and/or of the actives. This is particularly interesting in particular within the scope of the care of lips. Indeed, the conventional lipstick compositions known from the prior art, whether they are solid or liquid, seldom comprise water and, if they contain any, are generally unstable over time (i.e. they have phase separation and exudation phenomena).

Preferably the active is selected from: polyhydric preferably C ₂ -C ₈ and still preferably C ₃ -C ₆ alcohols, such as preferably, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine, collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particular C-3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution with 30% by weight of active materials in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight); spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen), hyaluronic acid spheres; ceramides such as preferably ceramide V.

Preferably, the active content in the composition ranges from 0.001 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, or even better, from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Anti-transpirant actives

The compositions contain at least one anti-transpirant aluminum and/or zirconium salt.

They are preferably selected from aluminum and/or zirconium salts; complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as those described in patent US-3,792,068 commonly known under the name of « ZAG complexes ». Such complexes are generally known under the ZAG name (when the amino acid is glycine). ZAG complexes ordinarily have a quotient Al/Zr ranging from about 1 .67 to 12.5 and a metal/CI quotient ranging from 0.73 to 1 .93. Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium tetrahydrochloride GLY and aluminum zirconium trihydrochloride-GLY. Among aluminum salts, mention may be made of aluminum hydrochloride, aluminium chlorohydrex, aluminium chlorohydrex PEG, aluminium chlorohydrex PG, aluminium dihydrochloride, aluminium dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminium dichlorohydrex PG, aluminium sesquihydrochloride, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex PG, alum salts, aluminium sulfate, aluminium zirconium octahydrochloride, aluminium zirconium pentahydrochloride, aluminium zirconium tetrahydrochloride, aluminium zirconium trihydrochloride and more particularly aluminium hydrochloride in the activated form or not and marketed by REHEIS under the name of MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE ^® or by GUILINI CHEMIE under the name of ALOXICOLL PF 40. Aluminium and zirconium salts are for example the one marketed by REHEIS under the name of REACH AZP-908-SUF ^® , activated aluminium salts for example the one marketed by REHEIS under the name of REACH 103 or by WESTWOOD under the name of WESTCHLOR 200.

The anti-transpirant actives, salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.5 to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Care actives with low water solubility, or even insoluble in water.

By « lipophilic active with low solubility », is meant any cosmetic or dermatological active having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 10% by weight in most organic solvents like paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol ^® 812 marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent on an equilibrium with an excess of solids in suspension after returning to room temperature. It may easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

The liphophilic actives of low solubility such as the actives selected from aminophenol derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, 2-amino 4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3-oxide derivatives in particular 2-amino 4-dodecylaminopyrimidine 3-oxide, DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone), its derivatives and its chemical precursors such as 7-hydroxy- or 7-keto-DHEA, or further 3B-acetoxy-7-keto-DHEA, cholesterol and its esters, plant sterols such as phytosterols and sitosterols and their esters, pentacyclic triterpene acids, hydroxystilbenes, flavonoids, liphophilic organic UV filters in sunscreen formulations, retinol and its derivatives, carotenoids such as lycopene, and also perfumes, essential oils, hormones, vitamins in particular vitamin E, ceramides or mixtures thereof.

The aminophenol derivatives used are more particularly the derivatives of the following formula (1 ):

wherein R' is a radical selected from the group formed by the following radicals (a), (b) and (c):

(a) -CO-NR R ²

(b) -CO-O-R ³

(c) -S0 ₂ R ³

wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, C C ₆ alkyl radical, ,

R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a radical selected from linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated, Ci ₂ -C ₃ o alkyl radicals, and

R ³ represents a radical selected from linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci ₂ -C ₃ o alkyl radicals, including polycyclic fused radicals, and optionally hydroxylated.

In formula (1 ), among the linear or branched alkyl radicals R ² or R ³ having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, mention may advantageously made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, tertiobutyl, hexyl, octyl, nonyl, 2-ethyl-hexyl, dodecyl, hexadecyl, behenyl and octadecyl, 2-butyl-octyl radicals. Preferably these radicals have from 1 to 12 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, the alkyl radical generally comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. As a lower alkyl radical, mention made be made of the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tertiobutyl, hexyl radicals.

When it is unsaturated, a radical having one or several ethylenic unsaturations is preferred such as more particularly the allyl radical.

When the alkyl radical is cyclic, mention may notably be made of the cyclohexyl, cholesteryl or terbutylcyclohexyl radical.

When it is hydroxylated, the radical preferably comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups. Among monohydroxyalkyi radicals, a radical preferably containing 1 or 3 carbon atoms, is preferred, notably hydroxymethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2- or 3-hydroxypropyl radicals. Among polyhydroxyalky radicals, a radical having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and from 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups is preferred such as the 2,3-dihydroxypropyl, 2,3,4-trihydroxybutyl, 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentyl and 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexyl radicals.

The alkoxylated radicals are alkyl radicals such as described notably above, preceded with an oxygen atom.

Preferably, the aminophenol derivatives used in the present application are those for which at least one and preferably all the conditions below are observed:

- the -OH function on the phenyl radical is in the ortho position or advantageously in the para position,

- R' is selected from a radical of formulae (a) or (b).

Among linear or branched alkyl radicals R , mention may be made of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tertiobutyl, hexyl radicals.

The aminophenol derivatives used preferably in said composition is a para-aminophenol derivative, even more preferably, this will be N-ethoxycarbonyl-4-para-amino henol of formula (1 a):

or further N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol of formula (1 b) :

These aminophenol derivatives as well as their preparation method are described in international applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077.

These derivatives have a more or less long hydrocarbon chain, preferably an alkoxycarbonyl chain, bound to the nitrogen atom. They have the drawback of being sparingy, or even not at all soluble in water or in the fatty phase of the type of the one used in the present application. Their introduction into cosmetic compositions requires, for the compounds with a short hydrocarbon chain, being put into a hydroalcoholic solution, which is not always desirable when the composition is intended for example to be applied on the contour of the eye.

For their part, the compounds with a long hydrocarbon chain are insoluble in oil, because of their steric hindrance and they tend to recrystallize from water.

The compositions according to the present invention comprising such an aminophenol derivative may be used as a depigmentation or bleaching agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition.

The salicylic acid derivatives are the derivatives of formula (2):

wherein

R"i represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula

-0-CO-R" ₄

wherein R" ₄ is a saturated or unsaturated radical comprising from 1 to 26 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,

R" ₂ and R" ₃ independently of each other are found in positions, 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent independently of each other a hydrogen atom or a radical: -(0) _n -(CO) _m -R" ₅

wherein n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1 , provided that R" ₂ and R" ₃ are not hydrogen atoms simultaneously,

and R" ₅ represents a hydrogen, a linear, branched or cyclized saturated aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an unsaturated radical comprising from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to 9 conjugate double bonds or not, the radicals may be substituted with at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine) radicals, trifluoromethyl, hydroxyl radicals in free form or esterified with an acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a free carboxyl radical or esterified with a lower alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aromatic radical comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R" ₅ represents a saturated aliphatic radical comprising from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R"i represents a hydroxyl radical. Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R" ₅ is in position 5 of the benzene ring and R" ₂ represents a hydrogen atom.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these are derivatives of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic, n-octyl-5-salicylic, n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic, n-heptyloxy-4-salicylic,

5-tert-octylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic, 5-butoxysalicylic, 5-octyloxysalicylic, propanoyl-5-salicylic, n-hexadecanoyl-5-salicylic, n-oleoyl-5-salicylic, benzoyl-5-salicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts and mixtures thereof.

Applying 2-hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic acid marketed under the trade name of « Mexoryl SAB » by CHIMEX is most preferably preferred; it fits the following formula:

The use of salicylic acid derivatives in topical compositions is known, for example as a keratolytic agent for treating acne or as an anti-ageing agent, patent applications FR-A-2 581 542 and EP-A-378 936 describe such derivatives.

Salicylic acid derivatives are of great interest notably for preventing or repairing the main signs of skin ageing which are fine lines and wrinkles, disorganization of the « grain » of the skin, modification of the complexion of the skin and the loss of firmness and tonicity of the skin. However, the use of these derivatives poses a problem insofar that, when they are introduced as such in topical compositions, they do not solubilize and remain in the state of crystals, which makes the use of the composition containing them, ineffective for treating the skin.

Generally, these derivatives are put into solution in lower alochols such as ethanol or isopropanol or solvents such as octyldodecanol, certain glycols, fatty alcohols with a short chain (smaller than C12) . However, these lower alcohols have the drawback of drying and irritating the skin; it is therefore preferred to avoid their use in care products for the body and/or for the face. Further, these solubilizing agents can only be introduced in small amounts with the penality of altering the cosmetic properties (drying the skin) and the stability of the compositions which contain them. The concentration of salicylic acid derivatives of the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of amino acid esters will depend on the amount of salicylic acid derivatives to be solubilized. It may be from 0.01 to 90% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 60% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprising at least one salicylic derivative may be used as a cosmetic or dermatological composition, and notably for the care, protection, cleaning and/or make-up of keratin materials of human beings (skin, lips, keratin fibers such as hairs and eyelashes), and notably for combating signs of skin ageing and/or for smoothing the skin of the face and/or of the body and/or for treating wrinkles and fine lines of the skin and/or for stimulating the epidermal renewal process and/or for depigmenting and bleaching the skin, and/or for treating acne and/or for treating skin disorders.

These derivatives as well as their preparation method are described in WO 94/1 1338.

The derivatives of the family of 2-amino-4 alkylamino pyrimidine 3-oxides are derivatives of general formula 3):

wherein R ⁴ represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an -OR ⁵ radical wherein R ⁵ represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, as well as its acylated forms or addition salts with acids.

Preferably, R ⁴ is selected from the group formed by the hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl radicals.

Preferaby, R ⁵ is selected from the group formed by the ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl radicals.

Still more preferably, this is 2-amino, 4-dodecylamino-pyrimidine 3-oxide.

The derivatives of the family of 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3-oxides may notably be used in or for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention for preventing and treating problems relating to sensitive skins and skin perturbations such as skin discomfort, skin tensions, skin itchings, skin swelling, skin redness and skin heat sensation.

Another family of molecules which enters the definition of molecules with low solubility in water is DHEA, its derivatives and its chemical or metabolic precursors.

DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone, also known as 3-beta-hydroxyandrost-5-en-17-one, or dehydroisoandrosterone, but also trans-dehydro androsterone or prasterone, with formula:

By precursors of DHEA concerned by the invention, are meant its biological precursors which may be transformed into DHEA during metabolism, as well as its chemical precursors which may be transformed in DHEA by an exogenous chemical reaction.

Examples of biological precursors are A5-pregnenolone, 17a-hydroxy pregnenolone and 17a-hydroxy pregnenolone sulfate, without this list being limiting.

By chemical precursors of DHEA, are notably meant saponins and their derivatives such as hecogenin (3 beta, 5 alpha, 23r)-3-hydroxyspirostan-12-one) and hecogenin acetate, diosgenin (5-spirosten-3-beta-ol), smilagenin and sarsapogenin as well as natural extracts containing them, in particular fenugreek and extracts of Dioscoreae such as wild yam root or wild yam, without this list being limiting.

By derivatives of DHEA, it is meant both its metabolic derivatives and its chemical derivatives. As metabolic derivatives, mention may notably be made of A5-androstene-3,17-diol and notably 5-androstene 3β, 17B-diol, A4-androstene-3,17-dione, 7 hydroxy DHEA (7a-hydroxy DHEA or 7B-hydroxy-DHEA) and 7-keto-DHEA which itself is a metabolite of 7B-hydroxy DHEA, without this list being limiting.

7a-hydroxy DHEA is with 5-androstene 3 β, 17 β -diol, a major metabolite of DHEA, obtained by action of 7a-hydroxylase on DHEA. 7B-hydroxy DHEA is a minor metabolite of DHEA obtained by action of 7B-hydroxylase on DHEA. The 7-hydroxy DHEA preferably used in the compositions according to the present invention is 7a-hydroxy DHEA. A method for preparing this compound is described in patent applications FR 2 771 105 and WO 94 08588.

As chemical derivatives of DHEA, mention may further be made of the salts of DHEA and in particular of the water-soluble salts such as DHEA sulfate; DHEA esters such as esters of hydrocarboxylic acids and DHEA in particular those described in patent US 5,736,537 or further DHEA salicylate, DHEA acetate, DHEA valerate (or n-heptanoate) and DHEA enanthate.

Mention may also be made of DHEA carbamates, DHEA 2-hydroxy malonate esters and DHEA aminoacid esters. Finally, mention may be made of 3B-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA which may notably be prepared as described in patents US-5,869,709 and US-6,1 1 1 ,1 18. This list is obviously not limiting.

The concentration of a DHEA-based compound in the composition according to the present invention, may advantageously range from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20%, and even more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. These compounds will be in solubilized form between 20 °C and 90 'Ό.

According to an embodiment, among the compounds with low solubility in water in the sense of the present invention, are notably included derivatives of aminophenol, derivatives of salicylic acid, 2-amino 4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3-oxide derivatives in particular 2-amino 4-dodecylaminopyrimidine 3-oxide, DHEA, its derivatives and its chemical precursors.

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise as an active, a depigmentation agent. Preferably, this depigmentation agent is ellagic acid or a derivative thereof (for example a salt or ester).

According to an embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise as an active, ellagic acid notably in the form of a dispersion, or in free form or in an esterified or salified form.

Coloring materials

According to an embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one coloring material.

Within the scope of the present invention, the coloring materials used give the possibility of giving the composition a color preference other than white. This (these) coloring material(s) is(are) preferably selected from powdery materials, liposoluble coloring agents, water-soluble coloring agents, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention include at least one powdering coloring material. The powdery coloring materials may be selected from pigments and mothers-of-pearl, preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, coated or not. Mention may be made among mineral pigments of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The mothers-of-pearl may be selected from white mother-of-pearl pigments such as mica covered with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored mother-of-pearl pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxides, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as mother-of-pearl pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble coloring agents are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 1 1 , D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinolein yellow, rocou.

Preferably, the coloring materials present in the compositions according to the invention are selected from pigments, and preferably from metal oxides, and preferentially from iron oxides.

These coloring materials may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 60% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3% to 60%, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the coloring material(s) is(are) selected from one or several metal oxides present at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, advantageously comprised inclusively between 3% and 50%, preferably between 3% and 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the coloring material is a black iron oxide. Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise from 15% to 60%, notably from 15% to 20%, by weight of black iron oxide based on total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention comprising black iron oxide as a coloring material are particularly advantageous for mascaras. Indeed, they give the possibility of obtaining a color effect similar to the one obtained with mascara compositions comprising carbon black.

It was therefore seen that the use of dispersant polymers according to the invention gives the possibility of obtaining an intense black with black iron oxide, equivalent to the blacks obtained with formulations based on carbon black.

The intensity of the black is measured according to the procedure described in the experimental part hereafter.

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one inorganic pigment.

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least 1 % by weight of inorganic pigment(s) based on the total weight of the composition. These inorganic pigments are preferably selected from metal oxides as defined above.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the inorganic pigments present in the compositions according to the invention are different from titanium dioxide.

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one iron oxide, and preferably with a content greater than or equal to 1 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Fillers

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

By « fillers » should be understood colorless or white solid particles of all shapes, which appear in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they give the possibility of giving the composition softness, mattness and uniformity to the makeup.

The fillers may be selected from those well known to one skilled in the art and currently used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, lamellar, globular, spherical or bowl-shaped, with fibers or of any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may either be surface-coated or not, and in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

According to an embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one filler selected from mineral or organic fillers.

Among the mineral fillers which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talcum, mica, silica, magnesium and aluminum silicates, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, fillers based on silica like Aerosil 200, Aerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33, Sunsphere H-51 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, pearlite powders, fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic fillers which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders such as Nylon-12 ^® microspheres marketed under the name of SP-500 by TORAY, poly-b-alanine and polyethylene microspheres, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, for example comprising an (alkyl)acrylate, such as EXPANCEL® (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba for example), polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, like the hexamethylene di-isocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer, marketed under the name of PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® by TOSHIKI, carnauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name of MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name of MicroEase 1 14S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names of Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name of Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene micro waxes, such as those marketed under the names of Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; fibers of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin. They may be short or long, of unit length or organized for example as braids, either hollow or solid. Their shape may be any shape and notably with a circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) according to the relevant specific application. In particular, their ends are blunt and/or polished in order to avoid any injury. The fibers have a length ranging from 1 μηι to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their section may be comprised in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μηι, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μηι and better from 1 μηι to 50 μηι. As fibers which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide fibers (Nylon®) or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers like those sold under the names of KERMEL®, KERMEL TECH® by RHODIA or poly-(p-phenylene-terephthalamide) (or aramide) fibers notably sold under the name of Kevlar® by DUPONT DE NEMOURS, and mixtures thereof.

The fillers may represent from 0.1 % to 50%, preferably from 0.1 % to 25%, in particular from 0.2% to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one hard mineral filler, in particular silica, notably in the form of spheres.

The present invention also relates to the use of mineral fillers such as those described above in mascara compositions according to the invention for improving the bending properties of eyelashes coated with such compositions.

Thus, according to an embodiment, when the compositions according to the invention comprise a mineral filler selected from the group consisting of silica, mica, talcum, boron nitride, calcium sulfate, pumice stone, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, barium sulfate and calcium carbonate, the latter having good bending properties for eyelashes coated with such compositions.

These bending properties are measured according to the procedure described hereafter in the experimental part.

The present invention also relates to the use of a dispersant polymer as defined above associated with organic particles for improving playtime properties.

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one organic filler, in particular nylon particles or further an organic filler selected from the following fillers: lauryl lysine, PMMA, PTFE, acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, paraffin wax or polyurethanes as listed above.

In particular for compositions comprising nylon particles, it was observed that very good properties in terms of playtime (redeposition, retouching) were obtained.

These playtime properties are measured according to procedures described hereafter in the experimental part.

The present invention therefore also relates to the use of a dispersant polymer as defined above associated with nylon particles for improving the playtime properties.

Thickeners

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickener, preferably a hydrophilic thickener, notably gums.

These thickening agents are preferably hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.

In particular mention may be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickener polymers. The latter may notably be selected from: polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, gum arabic, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, algenates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a thickening agent selected from polysaccharide biopolymers like gum Arabic.

The compositions of the invention may also comprise hydroxyethylcellulose.

According to an embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise thickening agents in an active material content from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, notably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming polymers

The compositions according to the present application preferably include at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic, preferably hydrophilic film-forming polymer.

The hydrophilic film-forming polymer preferably appears as dispersion in an aqueous medium. According to an embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one film-forming polymer as particles dispersed in water.

In the present application, by « film-forming polymer » is meant a polymer capable of forming by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and still better a deposit for which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said deposit may be individually isolated and handled, for example when said deposit is made by casting on an anti-adhesive surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

Generally, the dry material content of a « film-forming polymer » of the compositions according to the present application ranges from 0.1 % to 40%, preferably from 1 % to 35%, preferably from 5% to 30% and better from 10% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Among the film-forming polymers which may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, preferably, the film-forming polymer may be present in the composition as dispersed particles in an aqueous phase, generally known under the name of Latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing the dispersions are well known to one skilled in the art.

As an aqueous dispersion of a film-forming polymer, it is possible to use acrylic dispersions sold under the names of Neocryl XK-90 ^® , Neocryl A-1070 ^® , Neocryl A-1090 ^® , Neocryl BT-62 ^® , Neocryl A-1079 ^® and Neocryl A-523 ^® by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432 ^® by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD ^® or Daitosol 5000 SJ ^® by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 ^® by Interpolymer, Allianz Opt ^® by Rohm and Haas or further aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names of Neorez R-981 ^® and Neorez R-974 ^® by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405 ^® , Avalure UR-410 ^® , Avalure UR-425 ^® , Avalure UR-450 ^® , Sancure 875 ^® , Avalure UR-445 ^® and Sancure 2060 ^® by NOVEON, Impranil 85 ^® by BAYER, Aquamere H-151 1 ^® by HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ ^® by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM ^® , aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate like « Vinylbran ^® » from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of pyrrolidone/ dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide/lauryldimethylpropylmethacryl- amidoammonium chloride terpolymer such as Styleze W from ISP, aqueous dispersions of hybrid polyurethane/polyacrylics polymers such as those marketed under the references of « Hybridur ^® » by AIR PRODUCTS or « "Duromer ^® » from NATIONAL STARCH, core/shell type dispersions: for example those marketed by ATOFINA under reference Kynar (fluorinated core, acrylic shell) or further those described in document US 5, 188,899 (silica core, silicone shell) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous dispersion Syntran 5760 ^® marketed by Interpolymer.

The compositions of the invention may further comprise an aqueous phase.

A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or thermal water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature - 25 ^) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 1 0 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri- propylene glycol (C C ₄ )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (Ci -C ₄ ) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises a polyol notably pentylene glycol, and a monoalcohol, notably ethanol.

In particular, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise ethanol and pentylene glycol.

Waxes

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one wax.

The wax(es) is(are) generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid state reversible transition, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 'C which may range up to 200 °C and notably up to 120 <C. In the sense of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the most endothermic peak temperature observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax may be measured with a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name of « "DSC Q2000 » by TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have a melting enthalpy AHf greater than or equal to 70 J/g.

Preferably, the waxes include at least one crystallizable portion, visible with X-ray observations.

The measurement procedure is the following:

A sample of 5 mg of wax positioned in a crucible is subject to a first rise in temperature from -20 °C to 120°C, at the heating rate of 10°C /minute, and then is cooled from 120°C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subject to a second rise in temperature from -20°C to 120 ^ at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:

- the melting point (T _f ) of the wax, as mentioned earlier corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the change in the absorbed power difference versus temperature,

- AHf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the obtained melting curve. This melting enthalpy of the wax is the amount of energy required for having the compound pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone wax(es) and be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a pre-fabricated wax microdispersion, notably as described in application FR 2 687 569.

According to an embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise less than 15% by weight of wax(es) based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0 to 12%, and preferentially from 0 to 5%. According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are wax-free.

Non-volatile oils

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil. By « non-volatile oil », is meant an oil remaining on the skin or on the keratin fiber at room temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm ² /min.

Said at least one non-volatile oil suitable for the present invention may be selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils.

The hydrocarbon non-volatile oils suitable for the present invention may in particular be selected from:

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths from C ₄ to C ₂₈ , the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheat germ, sunflower, grape pip, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, karity, avocado, olive, soya bean oils, sweet almond, palm, rape seed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppyseed, squash, sesame, pumpkin, rape seed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut tree, passiflora, rose hip oil; or further triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids like those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names of Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Sasol;

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as vaseline, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam®, squalane and mixtures thereof;

- synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R1 COOR2 wherein R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is≥ 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, , C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoates; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malates; and esters of pentaerythritol;

- liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile silicone oils suitable for present invention may in particular be selected from:

- non-volatile silicone oils which may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl or alkoxy groups, either pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The non-volatile oil content in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% by weight and better from 0.1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of non-volatile oil(s), or even is free of non-volatile oil(s).

Additional dispersant agent

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise an additional dispersant agent (in addition to the dispersant polymer according to the invention).

This additional dispersant agent is selected from non-ionic, ionic surfactants and mixture(s) thereof, preferably non-ionic surfactants.

According to an embodiment, this(these) dispersant agent(s) is(are) suitable for facilitating the removal of the applied composition on keratin materials.

Cosmetic actives

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active other than those listed above.

As cosmetic actives, which may used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may notably be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralization agents, emollients, coalescence agents, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins and filters, in particular sun screens and mixtures thereof.

Of course, one skilled in the art will ensure selection of the optional additional additives and/or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not altered or substantially not altered by the contemplated addition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed. Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

Uses

According to an embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup of keratin materials, notably of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows. More particularly they are used for coating keratin fibers.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic make up and/or care method for keratin materials comprising a step for applying on said keratin materials on at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular making up eyelashes, comprising a step for applying on said keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, a cosmetic composition as defined above.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application on the skin, on the nails, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips of a composition as defined above.

In the whole application, the wording « comprising one » or « including one » means « comprising at least one » or « including at least one » unless specified otherwise.

EXAMPLE

Preparation of compositions

An oil-in-water emulsion was prepared with the following composition:

- water qsp 100 g

- glycerol 3 g - preservatives qs

- disodium salt of ethylene diamine tetracetic acid 0.1 g

- xanthan gum 0.2 g - polydimethylsiloxane

(Fluid DC 200 10 est is from DOW CORNING) 3 g

- ditertiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene 0.05 g

- hydrogenated isoparrafin (Parleam® from NOF Corporation) 3 g

- white vaseline 1 g - Mixture of glyceryl monostearate and of polyethyleneglycol

(100 OE) (Simulsol 165 from SEPPIC) 1 g

- 1 % polysaccharide in water (FUCOGEL 1000 from

SOLABIA) 1 g

- Acrylamide/sodium acrylamido 2-methyl propane

sulfonate in a 40% reverse emulsion in isoparrafin/water

( Sepigel 305 from SEPPIC) 2.4 g

- Sodium hyaluronate 0.01 g - water 7 g

- Ellagic acid 0.5 g

- COATEX MW 75000 dispersant (Polyether polycarboxylate,

sodium salt in an aqueous solution) 0.1 g

- water 10 g The dispersion of ellagic acid was prepared by hot solubilization in water of the dispersant according to the invention and then by adding ellagic acid with stirring for 5 minutes. The dispersion is kept at room temperature. The aqueous phase containing glycerol was heated to δΟ 'Ό, and then xanthan gum was added. The fatty phase was prepared by heating the constituents at 80 'Ό and then the latter was added into the prepared aqueous phase by maintaining the temperature at 70 'Ό. And then it was cooled down to 40 °C and the other prepared mixtures were introduced.

Thus a composition was obtained as a cream which may be applied on the skin or brightening and depigmenting the skin having pigmentation spots, suitably dispersing ellagic acid.