OXIDIZING COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 30% SURFACTANTS

The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising water, an oil, a surfactant in a content greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and a chemical oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide.

The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres using this composition and to a multi-compartment device that is suitable for the use of this composition. In cosmetics, especially in the fields of bleaching and the permanent transformation or deformation of keratin fibres, and in particular of human keratin fibres such as hair, oxidizing compositions are used.

In hair bleaching, bleaching compositions contain one or more oxidizing agents.

Among these oxidizing agents, the ones most conventionally used are hydrogen peroxide or compounds that are capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.

These compositions may be aqueous compositions containing alkaline agents (amines or aqueous ammonia) that are diluted at the time of use with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition.

These compositions may also be formed from anhydrous products that contain alkaline compounds (amines and alkaline silicates), and a peroxygenated reagent such as ammonium or alkali metal persulfates, perborates or percarbonates, which is diluted at the time of use with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition. Permanently reshaping the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the -S-S- disulfide bonds of keratin (keratocystine) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction step), and then, after having rinsed the head of hair thus treated, in reconstituting said disulfide bonds, in a second step, by applying to the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand (rollers and others), an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also known as the fixing step) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible, without preference, either to make the hair wavy or to relax or uncurl it. The new shape given to the hair by a chemical treatment such as that above is permanent and especially withstands washing with water or with shampoos, as opposed to the simple conventional techniques of temporary straightening, such as hair setting.

The oxidizing compositions required for performing the fixing step are usually compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution. It is sought to obtain compositions that are ever more effective, in particular in terms of lightening or bleaching, while respecting as far as possible the integrity of the keratin fibres and giving said fibres the best possible cosmetic properties.

To achieve this, oil-rich oxidizing compositions have been proposed, as emulsions, but incorporating high oil contents may cause the emulsion to destabilize. The compositions obtained must also have good mixing and application properties, and especially good rheological properties so as not to run down the face, onto the scalp or beyond the areas that it is proposed to treat, when they are applied.

The purpose of the present invention is to provide novel oxidizing compositions that improve the cosmetic properties of keratin fibres such as hair and that are stable over time.

It is also sought to obtain more effective compositions, i.e. that react more quickly and/or deliver more marked effects, while presenting good tolerance and good application quality for said fibre and the scalp.

Improving the use qualities of these compositions, especially in terms of ease of mixing of the alkaline and oxidizing compositions, of the uniformity of the mixture and of the quality of application to keratin fibres (in particular in terms of the wetting nature, of the adhesion to the roots and of the ease with which the mixture can be spread along the locks of hair).

Moreover, the thickest bleaching or lightening compositions for keratin fibres often have the drawback of requiring a lot of rinsing water in order to remove the surplus product on the hair. In many countries where access to water is restricted, the rinsing time and therefore the amount required to properly rinse-off the product are key indicators of the use qualities of a composition.

It is therefore sought to produce compositions that require smaller quantities of product for application to hair to reach a very high level of dying performance.

The present invention relates to remedying the drawbacks of the prior art and therefore to propose oxidizing compositions that are easy to rinse off and that reduce environmental impact while having good application properties and good effectiveness, in particular in terms of bleaching and/or lightening.

These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is thus a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, particularly hair, comprising: a) at least one oil, the total oil content being greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at least one surfactant, the total surfactant content in the composition being

greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, c) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, d) at least water.

The compositions according to the invention have good working qualities on heads, in particular are easy to use, do not run and allow fast, uniform spreading on the hair.

When the composition in accordance with the present invention is used for bleaching or lightening keratin fibres, it produces a good lightening effect for keratin fibres without degrading them or altering their cosmetic properties.

When the composition in accordance with the present invention is used for the permanent deformation of keratin fibres, it produces a satisfactory permanent deformation of these fibres without degrading them or altering their cosmetic properties. In particular, applying the composition according to the invention to keratin fibres allows, during rinsing, a reduction in the quantity of water used and the rinsing time.

Secondly, mixing the alkaline and oxidizing compositions from which the composition according to the invention is easy, and the mixture has good application properties, in particular of easy spreading and distribution that is even along the hair.

Further, because of its specific texture, and its impregnation properties, a smaller amount of composition can be used on hair to produce a very satisfactory lightening result, comparable to the oxidizing compositions on the market.

Another advantage of the composition according to the invention is its translucent appearance, which, after it has been applied to the hair, following the lightening process directly without it being necessary to partially remove the composition to check the colour of the hair tress as is the case for conventional compositions, which are opaque. Accordingly the composition can be rinsed as soon as the desired result is achieved, even before the recommended wait time is over. "Chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention is intended to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a bleaching (or lightening) or permanent deformation process for keratin fibres, using this oxidizing composition.

The invention further relates to the use of this oxidizing composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular the bleaching or permanent deformation of keratin fibres.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range.

The human keratin fibres treated via the process according to the invention are preferably hair.

The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

a) Oils

As has already been mentioned, the composition of the invention comprises one or more oils. The term "o/7" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013x10 ⁵ Pa).

"Fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013x10 ⁵ Pa) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less than 1 % and even more preferentially of less than 0.1 %). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The oils of the invention do not contain any salified carboxylic acid groups.

In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated ethers.

The oils that may be used according to the invention may be silicone oils or non- silicone oils. These oils are preferably not silicone oils.

The term "non-silicone oil or fatty substance" means an oil or fatty substance not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone oil or fatty substance" means an oil or fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C ₆ -Ci ₆ liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, fatty acid ethers, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising 6 to 30 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. As regards the C ₆ -Ci ₆ liquid hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin comprising more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as ParleamD , and mixtures thereof.

A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene. The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec ^® PC1 and Flutec ^® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ^® and PF 5060 ^® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ^® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 ^® by 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci-C ₂ 6 or branched C ₃ -C ₂ 6 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci-C ₂ 6 or branched C ₃ -C ₂ 6 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₂ -C ₂ 6 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ - C ₃ o fatty acids and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" is intended to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃ o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As fatty acid ethers, mention may be made of fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether.

The silicones that may be used in the dye composition according to the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified by organic groups, having a viscosity from 5x10 ^"6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, and preferably 1 x10 ^"5 to 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione ^® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, having formula:

D" - D' D" - D'

with D": ^— †' ^{~ 0} with D': - Si - O—

ChL ^C 8 ^H 17

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 ,1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10 ^"6 m ² /s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;

- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from Rhodia.

Preferably, the oils according to the invention are not silicone oils.

The oils are advantageously chosen from liquid C ₆ -Ci ₆ alkanes, in particular undecane, tridecane, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, liquid fatty acid esters and/or liquid fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, in particular isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, fatty acid ethers, in particular dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof, liquid saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

Even more preferentially, the oils are chosen from liquid C ₆ -Ci ₆ alkanes, in particular undecane, tridecane, liquid fatty acid esters and/or liquid fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, in particular isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, fatty acid ethers, in particular dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.

Obviously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional fatty substances other than the liquid fatty substances that have just been described, which are not liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The composition according to the invention has a total oil content greater than or equal to 15% by weight, better greater than or equal to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still greater than or equal to 20% by weight.

The oil content can range from 15% to 40% by weight, preferably from 18% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 18% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Surfactants

The composition according to the invention contains at least one surfactant chosen from oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants selected from oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₂ 2 alcohols, comprising from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 35 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 10 moles of EO.

Mention may be made for example of the addition products of ethylene oxide and decyl alcohol such as for example decyl alcohol 3 EO (CTFA name deceth-3), decyl alcohol 5 EO (CTFA name deceth-5), decyl alcohol 6 EO (CTFA name deceth-6), decyl alcohol 8 EO (CTFA name deceth-8), the addition products of ethylene oxide and oleic alcohol such as oleic alcohol 5 EO (CTFA name oleoceteth-5), the addition products of ethylene oxide and caprylic alcohol such as caprylic alcohol 8 EO (CTFA name capreth-8) and mixtures thereof.

The surfactant content, preferably the non-ionic surfactant content, preferably the content of oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants selected from oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols comprising from 2 to 50 EO, in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 38% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the surfactant or surfactants, preferably non-ionic surfactants, preferably the content of oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants selected from oxyethylenated C ₈ - C ₃₀ alcohols comprising from 2 to 50 EO, may vary from 30% to 65% by weight, better still from 35% to 60% by weight, better still from 38% to 55% by weight relative to the weight of the composition A and/or B. In addition to the oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants selected from oxyethylenated

C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols comprising from 2 to 50 EO, the composition may contain other surfactants.

The surfactant other than the oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants selected from oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols comprising from 2 to 50 EO, may be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic and non-ionic surfactants, and preferentially non-ionic surfactants. The term "anionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups:

-C(0)-OH, -C(0)-0 ^" , -SO ₃ H, -S(0) ₂ 0 ^" , -OS(0) ₂ OH, -OS(0) ₂ 0 ^" , -P(0)OH ₂ , -P(0) ₂ 0 ^" , -P(0)0 ₂ ^" , -P(OH) ₂ , =P(0)OH, -P(OH)0 ^" , =P(0)0 ^" , =POH, =PO ^" ; the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as those of an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal or an ammonium.

As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the dye composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, oolefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, polyglycoside polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to

50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates. When the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may in particular be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular of sodium or magnesium salts.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, use is preferably made of (C ₆ -C ₂ 4)alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₂ 4)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, it is preferred to use (Ci ₂ -C ₂ o)alkyl sulfates, (Ci ₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, which may be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C ₈ - C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C ₂ o)alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines and (C ₈ - C ₂ o)alkylamido(C ₆ -C ₈ )alkyl sulfobetaines. Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (B1 ) and (B2) below:

R _a -C(0)-NH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ C(0)0 ^" , M ⁺ , X ^" (B1 ) in which formula: ■ R _a represents a Ci ₀ -C ₃ o alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

^■ R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

^■ R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

■ M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and ^■ X ^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M ⁺ and X ^" are absent;

R _a .-C(0)-NH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (B2) in which formula:

^■ B represents the group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-X';

^■ B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _Z Y', with z = 1 or 2;

^■ X' represents the group -CH ₂ -C(0)OH, -CH ₂ -C(0)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(0)OH,

-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

^■ Y' represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ H or the group - CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ -Z';

^■ Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; ■ R _a ' represents a Ci ₀ -C ₃ o alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid

R _a '-C(0)OH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a Ci ₇ group and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci ₇ group.

These compounds having formulae (B1 ) and (B2) are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by

Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ^® C2M Concentrate.

Use may also be made of the compounds having the formula (B'2):

R _a "-NH-CH(Y")-(CH ₂ )n-C(0)-NH-(CH ₂ )n'-N(Rd)(Re) (B'2) in which formula: ■ Y" represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ H or the group -

CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ -Z"; ^■ Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl substituent;

^■ Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; ■ R _a - represents a C1 ₀ -C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a "-C(0)OH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

^■ n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds having formula (B'2), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

Use is preferably made, among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agents, of (C ₈ -C ₂ o)alkyl betaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C ₈ - C ₂ o)alkylamido (C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and of the compounds having formula (B'2), such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide), and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the amphoteric records which were ionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine, cocobetaine and the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinate, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the dye composition according to the invention comprise, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may in particular be mentioned include:

- those corresponding to general formula (B3) below:

(B3) in which formula: R ₈ to Ri i , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R ₈ to Rn comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and

X ^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (C C ₄ )alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

The aliphatic groups of R ₈ to Rn may also comprise heteroatoms in particular such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups of R ₈ to Rn are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci ₂ -C22)alkylamido(C2-C ₆ )alkyl, (C12- C ₂ 2)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X ^" is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, and (C C ₄ )alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates.

Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts having the formula (B3), firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group includes approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold as Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium imidazoline salts, for instance those having formula (B4) below:

(B4) in which formula: ^■ R-12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

^■ Ri ₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

■ Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;

^■ Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;

^■ X ^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl- sulfates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl- or (d- C ₄ )alkylaryl sulfonates.

Preferably, Ri ₂ and Ri ₃ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from

12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ri ₄ denotes a methyl group and Ri ₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;

- di- or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular having formula (B5) below: — (CH ₂ ) ₃ — N— R, 2X ^~

(B5) in which formula:

^■ R-I6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;

^■ R-I7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a ), X ^" group;

^■ R _16a , Ri7a, Risa, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

^■ X ^" , which may be identical or different, represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (CrC ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 75);

-quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those having formula (B6) below: which formula:

R22 is chosen from CrC ₆ alkyl groups and CrC ₆ hydroxyalkyi or dihydroxyalkyi groups,

R23 is chosen from:

O

- the group ²⁶

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₇ ,

- a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:

O

FL

- the group ²⁸

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₉ ,

- a hydrogen atom, ■ R ₂ 4, R26 and R ₂ 8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

^■ r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

^■ r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 , with r2+r1 =2r and t1 +t2=2t,

■ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

^■ x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 10,

^■ X ^" represents an organic, inorganic or anionic counterion,

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R ₂₅ denotes R ₂ g.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is an R ₂₇ hydrocarbon group, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₉ , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R26 and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂ i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂ i alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, have the value 0 or 1 . Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, have the value 2 or 3 and more particularly still are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X ^" is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (CrC ₄ )alkyl sulfate or a (CrC ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ammonium having an ester function.

The anionic counterion X ^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly in the dye composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts having formula (B6) in which:

- R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from:

O

• the group ^{R26 c}

• methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

• a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from:

O

• the group ^R28 ^

• a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R ₂ s, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based substituents are linear.

Among the compounds having formula (B6), examples that may be mentioned include salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart ^® by Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by Stepan, Noxamium ^® by CECA or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function comprise two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the dye composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be used in the dye composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, a-diols or (CrC ₂ o)alkylphenols, these compounds being etherified by groups that are ethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated, glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 1 to 100, more particularly from 2 to 50, even more particularly from 2 to 30, and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl polyglycosides, alkyl glucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, and aldobionamides,

The non-ionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from oxyalkylenated, glycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units. Mention may be made, as examples of oxyalkylenated or glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, of:

• oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂ 4)alkylphenols;

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C ₈ -C ₃ o alcohols other than oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols comprising from 2 to 50 EO,

• saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃ o amides;

• esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃ o acids and of polyethylene glycols;

• sorbitan esters or ethers such as oxyethylenated sorbitan mono or polyalkylesters or ethers, in particular oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates, palmitates and oleates (CTFA name: Polysorbate), in particular Polysorbate 21 ,

• derivatives of polyethylene glycol and a mixture of glycerides (mono-, di- and triglycerides) of caprylic acid and capric acid, preferably including 5 to 10 ethylene oxide groups, such as those including 7 ethylene oxide groups or PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides; mention may in particular be made of the product sold under the name Cetiol HE 810 by Cognis. (CTFA name: PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides),

• saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

• condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, among others, alone or as mixtures,

• oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones.

As an example of glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, glycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

As examples of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol comprising 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol comprising 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl/cetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C ₈ /Ci ₀ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C1 ₀ C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the Ci2 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol. Non-ionic additional surfactants are preferably oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably from:

• sorbitan esters or ethers such as oxyethylenated sorbitan mono or polyalkylesters or ethers, in particular oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates, palmitates and oleates,

• Derivatives of polyethylene glycol and a mixture of glycerides (mono-, di- and tri-glycerides) of caprylic acid and capric acid, preferably including 5 to 10 ethylene oxide groups.

The oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants preferably have a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide ranging from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50 and preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

According to one embodiment, the composition only comprises non-ionic surfactants, only comprises non-ionic surfactants, preferably chosen from oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants selected from oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₂ 2 alcohols, comprising from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 35 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 10 moles of EO.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total surfactant quantity, preferably non- ionic surfactant quantity, to the total quantity of oil(s) varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 .5 .

According to one embodiment, the non-ionic surfactants, preferably oxyalkylenated, better still oxyethylenated, represent the unique or sole surfactant system of the composition according to the invention.

The term "sole" is intended to mean that any possible additional surfactant system is present in a content not exceeding 1 %, and preferably not exceeding 0.5%. More preferably, the term "sole" denotes a total absence of any other surfactant system.

In this embodiment the non-ionic surfactants are preferentially selected from oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃ o alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₂ 2 alcohols, comprising from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 35 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 10 moles of EO. Preferably, the weight ratio of the total surfactant quantity, preferably non-ionic surfactant quantity, to the total quantity of oil(s) varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 .5 to 4, better from 1 .5 to 3, better still from 1 .7 to 2.5, best from 1 .8 to 2. Preferably this weight ratio relates to non-ionic surfactants described as preferred above.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-ionic oxyalkylenated surfactants chosen from C ₈ -C ₃ o alcohols, preferably, C ₈ -C ₂ 2 oxyethylenated alcohols, comprising from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 35 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 10 moles of EO, to the total quantity of oil(s) varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 .5 to 4, better from 1 .5 to 3, better still from 1.7 to 2.5, best from 1 .8 to 2.

c) Chemical oxidizing agent

The composition of the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents. The term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen. More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates or perborates, peracids and precursors thereof, and alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal percarbonates.

Advantageously, this oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

The concentration of chemical oxidizing agents may range more particularly from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises no colorants or peroxygenated salts.

d) Water

The composition according to the invention comprises water, where the water content in the composition is preferably at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 15% by weight, better at least 20% by weight. It can range up to 70% by weight, preferably up to 50%, better still up to 40% by weight. e) Solvent

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents, distinct from the oil described previously. Examples of organic solvents that may for example be mentioned include linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ alkanols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and n-butanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, polyoxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated glycol ethers such as PPG-3 METHYL ETHER, and aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; propylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, n-butanol, benzyl alcohol, hexylene glycol, PPG-3 methyl ether, glycerine, propylene carbonate and mixtures thereof. The organic solvent or solvents, if they are present, represent a content usually ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight and better still from 1 % to 5% by weight.

f) Alkaline agents:

The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more alkaline agents. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition and the process for treating keratin fibres use one or more alkaline agents. The alkaline agent or agents may be inorganic or organic or hybrid.

The inorganic alkaline agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof. The organic alkaline agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pK _b at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pK _b corresponding to the function of highest basicity. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic alkaline agent(s) is/are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds having formula (II) below:

N - W - N

/ \

^R y ^R t (ii) in which formula (II) W is a divalent CrC ₆ alkylene substituent optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a CrC ₆ alkyl substituent, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR _U ; R _x , R _y , R _z , R _t and R _u , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C ₆ alkyl, Ci-C ₆ hydroxyalkyi or Ci-C ₆ aminoalkyl substituent. Examples of amines having formula (II) that may be mentioned include 1 ,3- diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

"Alkanolamine" is intended to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC ₈ alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl substituents. Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci-C ₄ hydroxyalkyi substituents are in particular suitable for performing the invention.

Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N- dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

More particularly, the amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.

Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (III) below:

NH,

_ / ²

R CH ₂ — CH _\ ^

C0 ₂ H _(|||)

Formula (III) in which R represents a group chosen from: imidazolyl, preferably 4- imidazolyl; -(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH ₂ ; -(CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ ; -(CH ₂ ) ₂ -NH-C(0)-NH ₂ ; and

-(CH ₂ ) ₂ NH C— NH ₂

NH The compounds corresponding to formula (III) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and balenine.

The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.

Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid. Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used in particular.

Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) present in the composition of the invention are chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those having the formula (III). More preferably still, the alkaline agent(s) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA) and basic amino acids in neutral or ionic form.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of alkaline agent(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Other additives

The composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair treatment compositions, such as anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; inorganic thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays or talc; organic thickeners other than the thickening polymer bearing sulfonic units, with, in particular, anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.

The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.01 % and 20 % by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may be presented in diverse forms, such as for instance a fluid or gelled, translucent, opalescent or even opaque solution, preferably opalescent and particularly a fluid translucent solution.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a microemulsion. "Microemulsion" means a thermodynamically stable, microscopically heterogeneous and macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two mutually immiscible liquid substances, such as an oil phase and an aqueous phase. Microemulsions may be of oil-in-water type (O/W), i.e. droplets of oil dissolved in the form of direct micelles swollen in a continuous aqueous phase, or of water-in-oil type (W/O), i.e. droplets of water dissolved in the form of reverse micelles swollen in a continuous oil phase, or alternatively of bicontinuous type, i.e. in the form of structures in which the water and the oil are codissolved, the water and the oil being able to be considered simultaneously as being the continuous phase or the dispersed phase.

Microemulsions are to be distinguished from nanoemulsions, which are thermodynamically unstable dispersions of oil or water droplets in an aqueous or oil continuous phase.

Microemulsions are formed by simple mixing of the various constituents, without the need for a large energy input.

The microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of being able to be prepared without heating, without a large energy input, which facilitates its industrial manufacture and, moreover, its ability to use heat-sensitive active agents which it may be difficult to incorporate into standard emulsions or nanoemulsions when the manufacturing process requires a heating step liable to degrade them.

In addition, microemulsions generally have a particular microstructure formed from microdroplets whose size is such that light passes through them without being scattered, and as such the appearance of this composition is transparent or translucent, whereas the appearance of a standard emulsion is opaque.

Furthermore, the microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of being stable, even when the amount of fatty substance present is high, in particular when it is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Furthermore, relative to a standard emulsion or a nanoemulsion, the microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of allowing better penetration of the active agents into the keratin fibre due to the small size of its microdroplets and thus of constituting a better vector for the active agents. Furthermore, a microemulsion according to the invention may contain a larger amount of active agents, and in particular of active agents that are difficult to dissolve.

In particular, this makes it possible to reduce the amount of active agents and/or of dye composition required and/or the application time of the composition on the fibres to dye or bleach them.

In the case where the microemulsion according to the invention is in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous phase, the numerical mean size of the droplets of the dispersed phase of the microemulsions of the invention is preferably less than 100 nm, even more preferentially less than 50 nm and better still between 1 and 50 nm.

The number-average size of the particles may be determined in particular according to the known method of quasi-elastic light scattering. As a machine that may be used for this determination, mention may be made of the Brookhaven brand machine equipped with an SX 200 optical bench (with a 532 nm laser) and a Bl 9000 correlator. This machine gives a measurement of the mean diameter by photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS), which makes it possible to determine the numerical mean diameter from the polydispersity factor, which is also measured by the machine.

The microemulsion may be prepared via standard processes for preparing microemulsions, which are well known to those skilled in the art, in particular following the production of phase diagrams for determining the formation domain of the microemulsion.

After treating in a centrifuge, the microemulsion according to the invention spontaneously returns to its initial thermodynamic equilibrium at a given temperature. Moreover, the microemulsion remains stable even after 2 months of storage at 45°C.

Process

The present invention also relates to a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, using an oxidizing composition as defined above.

According to this process, a reducing composition is applied to the keratin fibres to be treated, the keratin fibres being placed under mechanical tension before, during or after said application of the reducing composition, the fibres are optionally rinsed, the oxidizing composition of the present invention is applied to the optionally rinsed fibres, then the fibres are optionally rinsed again.

The first step of this process consists of applying to hair a reducing composition. This application is tress by tress or to the entire head.

The reducing composition comprises at least one reducing agent, which can be in particular chosen from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, glycerol thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, or thiolactic or thioglycolic salts.

The usual step of placing the hair under tension in a shape corresponding to the final desired shape for the hair (curls for example) can be implemented in any way, in particular a mechanical way, that is appropriate and known in itself to maintain the hair under tension, such as for example rollers, curlers, combs and similar.

The hair can also be shaped without using external methods, simply with the fingers.

Before proceeding with the following optional rinsing step, it is suitable, in the classic manner, to leave the hair onto which the reducing composition has been applied to rest for a few minutes, generally between 5 minutes and one hour, preferably between 10 and 30 minutes, so as to leave the time for the reducer to act correctly on hair. This waiting phase preferably occurs at a temperature ranging from 35°C to 45°C, preferably by also protecting the hair with a hairnet. In the second optional rinsing step, the hair impregnated with the reducing composition is carefully rinsed by an aqueous composition.

Then, in a third step, the oxidizing composition according to the present invention is applied to the rinsed hair, with the aim of fixing the new shape imposed on the hair.

As for the application of the reducing composition, the hair on which the oxidizing composition was applied is then, in the classic manner, left in a rest or wait phase that lasts a few minutes, generally between 3 and 30 minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes.

If the hair's tension was maintained by external means, it can be removed from the hair (rollers, curlers and similar) before or after the fixing step. Finally, in the last step of the process according to the invention, also an optional step, the hair impregnated with the oxidizing composition is rinsed carefully, generally with water.

The oxidizing composition according to the invention may be a lightening or bleaching composition for keratin fibres used in a process for bleaching or lightening keratin fibres, and in particular hair.

The bleaching or lightening process according to the invention comprises a step of applying to keratin fibres a composition according to the invention preferably comprising hydrogen peroxide in an alkaline medium after mixing at the time of use. Classically, a second step of the bleaching process according to the invention is a step of rinsing the keratin fibres.

In particular, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet or dry keratin fibres. It is left in place on the fibres for a time generally of from 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.

After the treatment, the human keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.

The composition according to the invention is generally prepared by mixing at least two compositions; it can be obtained by mixing a composition comprising a chemical oxidizing agent with an aqueous or anhydrous composition preferably containing one or more alkaline agents. The anhydrous composition may be powdered or a paste and in both cases preferably contains one or more peroxygenated salts, and in particular one or more persulfate salts. The anhydrous composition in paste form also contains one or more inert organic liquids.

In particular, the composition according to the invention comprising ingredients a) to d) as defined previously results from the mixing of two compositions:

- a composition (A) comprising one or more alkaline agents, and

- a composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents c).

it being understood that: at least one of the compositions (A), (B), preferably the composition (A), comprises at least one oil a), such as those described above; at least one surfactant b), preferably non-ionic, as described above, water d), optionally at least one solvent other than the oil, where the total oil content is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight, where the total oil content of the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of mixture (A) + (B),

where the total surfactant content in the mixture A+ B is greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total surfactant quantity, preferably non-ionic surfactant quantity, to the total quantity of oil(s) varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 .5 to 4, better from 1 .5 to 3, preferably from 1.7 to 2.5, best from 1 .7 to 2. Composition A is prepared according to the following protocol:

a) preparation of the oil phase by mixing the surfactant or surfactants with the oil or oils and the solvent or solvents if present,

b) preparation of the aqueous phase by mixing the alkaline agents if present in water. The aqueous phase is then added to the oil phase with stirring.

Composition B is prepared according to the following protocol:

a) preparation of the aqueous phase by dissolving stabilization salts (if present) for the oxidizing agent in water, then adding the chemical oxidizing agent, then optionally adjusting the pH to around 2.2 with an acid.

b) optional preparation of an oil phase by mixing the surfactant or surfactants with the oil or oils and the solvent or solvents if present.

Oxidizing composition B may be constituted of the aqueous phase alone or be obtained by adding the aqueous phase to the oil phase, if present, with stirring. Preferentially, composition (B) is aqueous. Composition B preferably comprises at least 20% of water, preferably at least 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously, at least 40% by weight of water, where the water content can range up to 90% by weight. Compositions (A) and (B) are preferably mixed in an (A)/(B) weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 10, better still from 0.2 to 5 and even better still from 1 to 3.5.

The present invention also relates to a process for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, using an oxidizing composition as defined above.

The present invention also relates to using an oxidizing composition as defined above for bleaching or lightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair. The present invention also relates to using an oxidizing composition as defined above for the permanent deformation of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair.

Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition (A) as described above and at least a second compartment containing composition (B) as described above, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application to give the composition after mixing according to the invention.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES Example 1

The following compositions are prepared (unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts are expressed in g% of product): Composition A1

Composition A1 is mixed at the time of use with composition B1 in the following proportions: 1 g of composition A1 and 2.5 g of composition B1.

The compositions are mixed easily and a translucent composition is obtained.

The resulting mixture is then applied to tresses of tone 4 hair, at a rate of 1 g to 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. The mixture spreads quickly and is distributed easily and homogeneously on hair tresses. The mixture is left at room temperature for 30 minutes; since the composition is translucent, the change in hair lightening can be followed and the hair can be rinsed as soon as the desired result is reached. The hair is then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. The composition rinses off easily, without requiring excessive quantities of water.

A lightening of at least 2.5 tones is achieved after about 30 minutes.

Example 2

Composition B2 B3

Dicaprylyl ether 20 20

Deceth-5 40 40

Hydrogen peroxide 5.4 API 10 API Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 0.04

Sodium salicylate - -

Sodium stannate 0.035 0.035

Tetrasodium etidronate 0.2 0.2

Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.2 qs pH 2.2

Water qs 100 qs 100

At the time of use, 1 g of composition A1 is mixed with 2 g of composition B1 and 1 g of composition A2 is mixed with 4 g of composition B2.

The compositions are mixed easily and a translucent composition is obtained. The resulting mixture is then applied to tresses of tone 4 hair (HT4), at a rate of 1 g to 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

The mixture spreads quickly and is distributed easily and homogeneously on hair tresses. The mixture is left in at ambient temperature for 30 minutes.

Since the composition is translucent, the change in hair lightening can be followed and the hair can be rinsed as soon as the desired result is reached.

The hair is then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. The composition rinses off easily, without requiring excessive quantities of water.

A lightening of at least 2.5 tones is achieved after about 30 minutes for mixture A2 + B2 and 4 tones after about 50 minutes for the mixture A3 + B3.

Example 3

Compositions A4 to A7

Composition A4 A5 A6 A7

Monoethanolamine - 2.8 - 2.8 Ammonium hydroxide (at 20% ammonia) 9.24 - 6.72

Octeth-41 - - 28

Deceth-5 56 56 28 56

Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE by BASF) 28 28 28 28 n-butanol - - - 2

Glycerine 5 5 - -

Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Oxidizing composition B4

Compositions A4 to A7 are mixed at the time of use with composition B4 in the following proportions: 1 g of composition A4 to A7 and 0.4 g of composition B.

The compositions are mixed easily and a translucent composition is obtained.

The resulting mixture is then applied to tresses of tone 4 hair (HT4), at a rate of 1 g to 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. The mixture spreads quickly and is distributed easily and homogeneously on hair tresses. The mixture is left in at ambient temperature for 30 minutes.

Since the composition is translucent, the change in hair lightening can be followed and the hair can be rinsed as soon as the desired result is reached. The hair is then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. The composition rinses off easily, without requiring excessive quantities of water.

A lightening of at least 2.5 tones is achieved after about 30 minutes for mixture A4 + B4 and at least 4 tones after 20 minutes for mixtures A5 + B5, A6 + B6 and A7 + B7.

Example 4

B C C

comparative invention invention

Isopropyle myristate 28 28 28

Tween 80

oxyethylenated (20 OE)sorbitan 56 am*

mono-oleate

Oleth-20 - 56 am -

Oleth-5 - - 56 am Hydrogen peroxyde 7.5 am 7.5 am 7.5 am

Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 0.04 0.04

Sodium stannate 0.04 0.04 0.04

Tetrasodium etidronate 0.2 0.2 0.2

Phosphoriquc acid Qs pH 2,2 Qs pH 2,2 Qs pH 2,2

Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

*Active material

Compositions B, C and C are mixed at the time of use with composition A in the following proportions : 1 g of composition B, C and C and 2.5g of composition A.

The compositions are mixed easily and a translucent composition is obtained.

The resulting mixture is then applied to tresses of tone 4 hair (HT4), at a rate of 1 g to 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

The mixture spreads quickly and is distributed easily and homogeneously on hair tresses. The mixture is left in at ambient temperature for 30 minutes. The hair is then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.

The colorimetric measurements were determined using the CIE L ^* a ^* b ^* system with a Minolta CM-3600d (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included). According to this system, L ^* indicates the lightness of the hair.

The lightening is represented by the L ^* value : the higher the L ^* is, the better the lightening is.

Results

L*

A+B (comp) 21.15

A+C (inv) 24.01 A+C (inv) 29.27

The A+ C and A+C mixtures according to the invention gives a higher L ^* value than the A+B mixture according to the prior art: the lightening result is better with the mixture A+C and A+C according to the invention.