GOTO TATSUNARI (JP)
KASAI TAKEHIKO (JP)
GOTO TATSUNARI (JP)
| WO2007066309A2 | 2007-06-14 | |||
| WO2010070595A1 | 2010-06-24 |
| EP1795231A2 | 2007-06-13 | |||
| JP2004256515A | 2004-09-16 | |||
| EP1795232A2 | 2007-06-13 | |||
| FR2897265A1 | 2007-08-17 |
| CLAIMS 1. A powdery cosmetic composition with improved covering ability, comprising: at least one ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s), in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, wherein the ester has a molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 25,000 g/mol . 3. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyol is a diol. 4. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises at least one filler and/or at least one pigment, each of which has been preferably surface treated with at least one amino acid and/or a derivative thereof. 5. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Claim 4, wherein the amino acid is selected from the group consisting of proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, sarcosine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid. 6. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Claim 4 or 5, wherein the filler is an inorganic filler selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite . 7. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 4 to 6, wherein the pigment is an inorganic pigment selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) , chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and metal powders. 8. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the ester is represented by the following general formula (I) : R3-OCO-R1- (-COO-R2-OCO-Ri-)n-COOR3 (I) wherein Ri represents a dimerdilinoleate residue, R2 represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue, which may range from Ci6 to C68, especially from C24 to C44, in particular from C32 to C4o, and more particularly may be of C36, R3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, which may range from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32, in particular from 16 to 28, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15. 9. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, wherein n is from 2 to 10, more particularly from 5 to 8, and further more particularly 5. 10. The powdery cosmetic composition according to Claim 8 or 9, wherein R2 represents a dimerdilinoleyl residue. 11. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 8 to 10, wherein R3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl, phytosteryl residues and mixtures thereof. 12. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis- (behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl ) dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof. 13. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims l'to 12, wherein 'the composition comprises from 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 1%, by weight of the ester relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein it is in the form of a compacted powder. 15. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, wherein it is a powdery foundation. |
POWDERY COSMETIC COMPOSITION
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic with improved covering ability.
BACKGROUND ART
Many powdery cosmetic compositions have been already known. For example, powdery cosmetic compositions are widely used for powdery foundations, eye shadows and the like, in the form of a compacted powder or a loose powder, to hide defects, such as wrinkles and spots, on the skin.
JP-A-HlO-182355 discloses a powdery foundation in Example 7 which comprises silicone-treated mica, talc and titanium oxide. JP-A- S61-100515 discloses a powdery foundation in Example 1 which
comprises powders and cholesteryl isostearate as well as some oils. JP-A-2001-279129 discloses some powdery eye shadows comprising powders treated with di (cholesteryl/octyldodecyl) lauroylglutamate .
JP-A-2002-128628 and JP-A-2008-297240 discloses powdery cosmetic compositions comprising an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of dimerdilinoleyl alcohol.
However, some powdery cosmetic compositions do not sufficiently hide the defects on the skin. If the powdery cosmetic
compositions include a large amount of titanium dioxide, they could hide the defects on the skin. However, the make-up on the skin would be too white and not transparent. Thus, the make-up on the skin would be unnatural.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An object of the present invention is to provide a powdery cosmetic composition, which can show improved covering ability to hide defects on the skin without causing an unnatural appearance on the skin.
Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a powdery cosmetic composition with improved covering ability, comprising at least one ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s), in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The ester may have a molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 25,000 g/mol. The polyol may be a diol .
The powdery cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one filler and/or at least one pigment, each of which has been preferably surface treated with at least one amino acid and/or a derivative thereof.
The amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, sarcosine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid.
The filler may be an inorganic filler selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite .
The pigment may be an inorganic pigment selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) , chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and metal powders.
The ester is preferably represented by the following general formula ( I ) :
Rs-OCO-Rx- ( -COO-R2-OCO-R1- ) n -COOR 3 ( I )
wherein
Ri represents a dimerdilinoleate residue,
R 2 represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,
R 3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and
n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15.
In the above formula (I), n may be 5 to 8, preferably 5. R 2 preferably represents a dimerdilinoleyl residue. R 3 preferably represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl, phytosteryl residues and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the ester be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis- (behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl) dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
The powdery cosmetic composition may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 1%, by weight of the ester relative to the total weight of the composition.
The powdery cosmetic composition may be in the form of a compacted powder or a foundation.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The inventors performed diligent research and found that the addition to a powdery cosmetic composition of at least one ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s), in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition can solve the problem of poor covering ability which is found in some conventional powdery cosmetic products for the skin, and therefore, defects, such as wrinkles and spots, on the skin can be sufficiently hidden, while transparent and natural make-up can be provided to the skin.
Thus, the present invention is characterized by comprising, as well as powder, at least one ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s), in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hereinafter, the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
(1) Ester(s)
The powdery composition according to the present invention comprises, at least one ester of an oligomer ester of
dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s).
The term "ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s)" intends to mean one of the derivatives of an oligomer ester of the dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) obtained either by reaction of alcohol function (s) of the
polyol(s), which are not employed in bonds of ester type with acid functions of the dilinoleic acid dimer, with one or more
carboxylic functions of acid moieties other than dilinoleic acid or alternatively by reaction of acid functions of the dilinoleic acid dimer, which are not employed in bonds of ester type with alcohol functions of the polyol(s), with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol(s).
(Dimerdilinoleic acid)
The dimerdilinoleic acid or linoleic acid dimer that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by a
polymerization reaction, especially by intermolecular dimerization of at least two, preferably two, linoleic acids.
The oxidation ability of the dimerdilinoleic acid may be improved by hydrogenating the double bond(s) which may remain after the dimerization reaction. It is preferable that the double bond(s), if present, is/are hydrogenated, in order to enhance the stability to oxidation by air and the like.
The linoleic acid dimer may also be obtained by dimerization of the hydrogenated form of linoleic acid.
The hydrogenated form of the acid or of the dimer may be partial or total, and may correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more oxidation-stable.
As indicated previously, the carboxylic functions of the
dimerdilinoleic acid residue not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residue (s) are engaged in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol (s).
The alcohol molecules may be monoalcohols or polyols.
As examples of monoalcohols that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
As specific examples of monoalcohols that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodeanol,
hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, etc.
(Polyols) The term "polyol" intends to mean any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
The hydrocarbon-based chains may be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and especially an oxygen atom.
A polyol that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, in
particular from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and more particularly from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.
The hydroxyl functions, other than those already employed in an ester bond with the dimerdilinoleic acid, are employed, wholly or partly, with other ester bonds via reactivity with acid molecules other than the dimerdilinoleic acid.
The polyol that is suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen especially from linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.
Thus, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.
The polyol may be a diol chosen especially from a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or polyglycerol, a C 2 -4 monoalkylene. or polyalkylene glycol, 1, 4-butanediol and pentaerythritol .
As examples of diols that are also suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol,
ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and isomers thereof-.
A fatty alcohol dimer may also be the product of hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a fatty acid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least two, preferably two, unsaturated fatty acids, especially of C 8 to C 34 , especially of Ci 2 to C 2 2 / n particular of Ci 6 to C 2 o and more particularly of Ci 8 . A fatty alcohol dimer may range from Ci 6 to Cee, especially from C 2 to C44, in particular from C32 to C 40 and more particularly may be of C 36 .
According to one particular embodiment, a fatty alcohol dimer may be a diol dimer that can be the product of hydrogenation of dilinoleic acid. It may be in a saturated form.
A fatty alcohol dimer may be, for example, a dilinoleol dimer.
As an example of a diol that may be suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made especially of diglycerol.
This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a water molecule.
The term "diglycerol" denotes any isomer combination that can result from such a condensation, for instance linear isomers, branched isomers, and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from an intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule.
The diglycerol may be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art, and especially those described in EP-A-750848.
As examples of acid molecules that can interact ' with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not employed in the ester bond with the dimerdilinoleic acid, mention may be made, in a non- limiting manner, of molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytosteric acid, stearic acid or cetylic acid.
(Ester) '
An oligomer ester that is suitable for use in the present
invention may be obtained by reaction of polyol (s) with
dimerdilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2-1.0.
An ester of an oligomer ester that may be suitable for use in the present invention may especially be obtained by reacting
dimerdilinoleic acid with dilinoleol, and at least one additional monoalcohol chosen especially from behenol, isostearol,
phytosterol, stearol, cetol, and mixtures thereof.
Thus, an ester used in the context of the present invention may be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example. Alternatively, an ester of an oligomer ester that is suitable for the present invention may be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid, and a dimerdilinoleic acid,
especially in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0:0.5-0.9.
As examples of an ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the esters described in JP-A-2004-256515 and JP-A- 2005-179377.
An ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) suitable for the present invention may have a molecular weight ranging from about 2,000 to about 25,000 g/mol, in
particular from about 4,000 to about 20,000 g/mol, in particular from about 7,000 to about 15,000 g/mol, and more particularly from about 8,000 to about 10,000 g/mol.
According to one embodiment, an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of
dimerdilinoleate residue (s) and of residue (s) related to the polyol(s), and especially to the diol(s), the polyol(s) or diol(s) being for example, as defined above.
Thus, in such a configuration, each of the two ends of the sequence may bear, especially a unit OR' and OR" wherein R' and R" represent independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or OR' and OR" represent independently of each other a C 2 -C 36 , especially C 8 to C 2 4 , in particular Ci 2 to C 2 o, and more particularly Cis to Cis hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, providing that R' and R" do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom. It is preferable that both of OR' and OR" independently represent a hydrocarbon- based monoalcohol residue as described above.
As examples of hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues OR' and OR" that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of a fatty alcohol residue, such as a residue of behenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol as well as phytosterol.
According to one embodiment, an ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) that may be suitable for use in the present invention may have the general formula below:
Ra-OCO-Ri- ( -COO-R 2 -OCO-Ri- ) n -COOR 3 wherein
Ri represents a dimerdilinoleate residue,
R 2 represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue, which may range from Ci6 to Css r especially from C 2 4 to C 44 , in particular from C 32 to C 4 o, and more particularly may be of C 36 ,
R 3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, which may range from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32, in particular from 16 to 28, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and
n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, in particular from 2 to 10, more particularly from 5 to 8, and further more particularly 5.
According to one embodiment, R 2 may represent a dimerdilinoleyl residue.
Moreover, R 3 may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue chosen, for example, from behenyl, isostearyl, phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.
The viscosity of an ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) according to the present invention may be measured according to any process known to those skilled in the art, and especially according to the conventional process
described herein below.
The viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate or parallel plate viscometer of Ares type (TA-Instrument ) operating in kinetic sweep mode over a shear range of about 1 to 1, 000 s _1 to induce a flow tension at about 1,000 Pa.
The cone/plate or parallel plates may consist of a material selected from the group consisting of stainless steel, acrylic resins or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin) .
The cone/plate diameter may be 25 mm (cone angle 0.10 radiants). The measurement is performed at about 25 °C.
Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine if the sample is suitable per se.
The shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region according to the flow. The dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.
The measurements of at constant sweep rate are performed with a rate ranging from 1.0 to 1,000 s -1 and in particular from 1.0 to 100 s "1 .
The viscosity of an ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) suitable for use in the present invention may range from about 20,000 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s,
especially from about 40,000 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s, and in particular from about 60,000 mPa.s to about 80,000 mPa.s.
An ester that is suitable for the present invention may be chosen from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2
isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-
(behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl) dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Such compounds may be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailucent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G (Nippon Fine
Chemical Co., Ltd.).
The ester of an oligomer ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) suitable for use in the present invention may be advantageously present in the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount sufficient to improve covering ability, especially the ability to hide defects on the skin such as wrinkles and spots.
The ester should _be present in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
The ester may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from about 0.1 to 1% by weight, and more particularly from 0.4 to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(2) Powder (s)
The powdery composition according to the present invention comprises, at least one powder constituting a pulverulent phase, as a main component. The powder can comprise at least one filler.
The term "filler" should be understood as meaning a colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic particle which is insoluble in a possible liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, whatever the temperature at which the
composition is manufactured.
The filler (s) can be inorganic or organic, and can be of spherical or oblong shape, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like) . Non- limiting mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen
carbonate and hydroxyapatite, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon®) , of poly~ -alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of
polyurethane, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers
(Teflon®) , lauryllysine, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as those of poly (vinylidene chloride) /acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) , or of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example) , particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises an inorganic filler selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite,
calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite .
A filler that is suitable for the present invention may be, for example, a filler whose mean particle size is less than 100 urn, and specially between 1 and 50 urn, for example between 4 to 20 um.
The filler (s) can be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the additional fillers can be present in an amount ranging from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a further embodiment of the present invention, the additional fillers can be present in an amount ranging from 70% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The powder can comprise a coloring material which can be chosen from pigments.
The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic or organic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the physiological medium and which are intended to color the composition.
The pigments can be white or colored and inorganic and/or organic.
Among inorganic pigments that may be used according to the present invention, non-limiting mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, (black, yellow or red) iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or metal powders, such as aluminum powder or copper powder.
Among organic pigments that may be used according to the present invention, further non-limiting mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine and on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.-
It is also possible to use at least one goniochromatic pigment. This pigment exhibits a relatively large color change according to the angle of observation.
The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen, for example, from
pigments of multilayer interference structure and liquid-crystal pigments.
In the case of a multilayer structure, this structure may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer, independently of the other layer (s) or otherwise, being made, for example, from at least one material chosen from the following materials: MgF 2 , CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, Si0 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 0 3 , Pt, Va, A1 2 0 3 , MgO, Y 2 0 3 , S 2 0 3 , SiO, Hf0 2 , Zr0 2 , Ce0 2 , Nb 2 0 5 , Ta 2 0 5 , Ti0 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2 , cryolite, alloys and polymers. The multilayer structures that may be used in the goniochromatic pigments are, for example, the following structures:
Al/Si0 2 /Al/Si0 2 /Al; Cr/MgF 2 /Al/MgF 2 /Al; MoS 2 /Si0 2 /Al/Si0 2 /MoS 2 ;
Fe 2 0 3 /Si0 2 /Al/Si0 2 /Fe 2 0 3 ; Fe 2 0 3 /Si0 2 /Fe 2 0 3 /Si0 2 /Fe 2 03; MoS 2 /Si0 2 /mica- oxide/Si0 2 /MoS 2 ; and Fe 2 0 3 /Si0 2 /mica-oxide/Si0 2 /Fe 2 0 3 . Different colors may be obtained depending on the thickness of the various layers. Thus, with the structure Fe 2 0 3 /Si0 2 /Al/Si0 2 /Fe 2 0 3 , the color changes from green-golden to red-gray for Si0 2 layers ranging from 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for Si0 2 layers ranging from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for Si0 2 layers ranging from 410 to 420 nm; and from copper to red for Si0 2 layers ranging from 430 to 440 nm.
Consequently, the multilayer structure may be mineral or organic. Different colors are obtained depending on the thickness of each of the various layers.
The goniochromatic pigments of multilayer interference structure disclosed herein are, for example, those described in the
following documents: USP-3438796, EP-A-227423, USP-5135812, EP-A- 170439, EP-A-341002, USP-4930866, USP-5641719, EP-A-472371, EP-A- 395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A- 579091, USP-5411586, USP-5364467, WO 97/39066, DE-A-4225031, WO
95/17479, DE-A-19614637, and combinations thereof. They may be in the form of flakes of metallized color.
In one embodiment, the goniochromatic pigment of multilayer interference structure may be chosen from the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinite Colors from the company Shiseido, Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF, Colorstream, Xirallic or Xirona from Merck, and Colorglitter from Flex.
As goniochromatic pigments of multilayer structure, mention may be made of those sold under the name "Sicopearl".
It is also possible to use at least one liquid-crystal pigment which is, for example, described in patent application EP-A-1046 692.
Liquid-crystal particles that may, for example, be used include those known under the CTFA name Polyacrylate-4 and sold under the names "Helicone® HC Sapphire", "Helicone® HC Scarabeus",
"Helicone® HC Jade", "Helicone® HC Maple"-, "Helicone® HC XL
Sapphire", "Helicone® HC XL Scarabeus", "Helicone® HC XL Jade" and "Helicone® HC XL Maple" by the company Wacker. It is also possible to use at least one nacreous pigment. The term "nacreous pigment" should be understood as meaning an
iridescent particle of any shape, for example, produced in the shell of certain molluscs or alternatively synthesized.
The nacreous pigment (s) may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated, for example, with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
The coloring material can be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the pigments can be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a further embodiment, the pigments can be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that at least one filler and/or at least one pigment in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has or have been preferably surface treated with at least one amino acid and/or a derivative thereof.
The amino acid may preferably be selected from the group
consisting of proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, sarcosine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid.
The amino acids may be L-isomers or a mixture of L-isomers and D- isomers .
It is pr.eferable that the surface-treated filler (s) and/or pigment (s) has or have been coated with:
(a) at least one selected from proline, hydroxyproline and
derivatives thereof; and/or
(b) at least one selected from alanine, glycine, sarcosine and derivatives thereof; and/or
(c) at least one selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid and derivatives thereof.
The derivatives of the amino acids may be selected from salts of the amino acids, and N-acylated amino acids and salts thereof. It is preferable that two of the components (a) to (c) be used together, and it is more preferable that all of the components (a) to (c) be used together. If two or more of the components (a) to (c) are used, the type of the derivatives and/or salts may be the same or different.
The N-acyl group of the N-acylated amino acid may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl group with C 8 -C 2 2 carbon atoms, preferably C12-C18 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the N-acyl group is a linear saturated acyl group, such as a palmitoyl group .
The salt of the amino acid or the N-acylated amino acid is not limited but may be in the form of a metal salt with a metal element such as Na, K, Ba, Zn, Ca, Mg, Fe, Zr, Co, Al, Ti and the like; an onium salt such as ammonium salt; and a salt with an organic alkanolamine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3- propanediol, and triisopropanolamine . It is preferable that the salt is a metal salt with Na, K, Ca, Mg and Al .
It is more preferable that the surface-treated filler (s) and/or pigment (s) has or have been coated with a mixture (referred to as "lipo-amino acid composition") of at least one fatty acid, such as a Ci2-C 18 fatty acid, and/or a salt of the fatty acid, and
(a) at least one selected from proline, hydroxyproline and derivatives thereof; and/or
(b) at least one selected from alanine, glycine, sarcosine and derivatives thereof; and/or
(c) at least one selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid and derivatives thereof.
As the fatty acid, a linear, branched or cyclic fatty acid, preferably Ci 2 -Ci 8 , can be used. A plurality of fatty acids may be used. As examples of the fatty acid, mention may be made of lauric acid, myristic acid, isomyristic acid, palmitic acid, isopalmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, myristoleic acid, elaidic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid. As example of the salt of the fatty acid, mention may be made of a metal salt with a metal element such as Na, K, Ba, Zn, Ca, Mg, Fe, Zr, Co, Al, Ti and the like. Lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid as well as a metal salt thereof with Na, K, Ca, Al and Mg are preferable. Lauric acid, myristic acid and. palmitic acid are more preferable. Palmitic acid is most preferable.
In the lipo-amino acid composition, each of the fatty acid (or a salt thereof) and any of the components (a) to (c) may represent 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the lipo-amino acid composition.
It is most preferable that the lipo-amino acid composition comprises all of the components (a) to (c) as well as at least one fatty acid, such as a C12-C18 fatty acid, and/or a salt of the fatty acid.
For example, a mixture of palmitic acid, palmitoyl proline, palmitoyl sarcosinate, and palmitoyl glutamate can be used as the lipo-amino acid composition. A mixture of palmitic acid,
palmitoyl proline, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, and magnesium palmitoyl glutamate is more preferable.
In the lipo-amino acid composition comprising all of the
components (a) to (c) , each of the fatty acid (or a salt thereof) and any of the components (a) to (c) may represent 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the lipo-amino acid composition. It is possible that the lipo-amino acid composition comprises 5-50% by weight of the component (a) , 5-50% by weight of the component (b) , 5-25% by weight of the component (c) and 5-50% by weight of the fatty acid (or a salt thereof), relative to the total weight of the lipo-amino acid composition.
The lipo-amino acid composition can be prepared by a known method. For example, it is possible to prepare the lipo-amino acid composition in accordance with the methods described in WO
98/09611, WO 99/04757, JP-A-2000-191426 and the like. The above lipo-amino acid composition is also marketed in the name of
Sepifeel One sold by Seppic in France.
The surface-treated filler (s) and/or pigment (s) can be prepared by coating filler (s) and/or pigment (s) with any of the components (a) to (c), a mixture of two or more of the components (a) to (c) , or the lipo-amino acid composition described above.
The coating can be performed by a known method. For example, filler (s) and/or pigment (s) can be added into a solution of any of the components (a) to (c) , a mixture of two or more of the components (a) to (c) , or the lipo-amino acid composition
described above; the filler (s) and/or pigment (s) are dispersed in the solution; and the dispersion is filtered, washed and dried. The solvent of the solution may be selected from water, aqueous solvents such as methanol and ethanol, and non-aqueous solvents such as ethyl acetate, depending on the nature of the components (a) to (c) and the like.
The amount of the coating depends on the type of the filler (s) and/or pigment (s), and can be 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the filler (s) and/or pigment (s) .
The filler (s) and/or pigment (s) may preferably be pre-coated with at least one oxide or hydroxide of a metal element such as
aluminum, calcium, magnesium, cerium, silicon, zirconium, titanium, zinc, iron, cobalt, manganese, nickel, and tin. Aluminum
hydroxide is more preferable. Further, the filler (s) and/or pigment (s) may preferably be pre-coated with a silicone compound, a fatty acid, a metal soap, a fluorine-based compound, a silane- coupling agent, and the like.
The surface-treated filler (s) and/or pigment (s) coated with the lipo-amino acid composition comprising at least one fatty acid, such as a Ci 2 -C 18 fatty acid, and/or a salt of the fatty acid, and the components (a) to (c) is/are available from the market.
For example, mica coated with palmitoyl proline, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate and palmitic acid has been marketed by Miyoshi Kasei Inc. in Japan.
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present
invention can comprise the surface-treated filler (s) and/or
pigment (s) in an amount of 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably 1% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pulverulent phase in the powdery cosmetic composition
according to the present invention can represent 55% to 95% by weight, preferably 65% to 85% by weight, and more preferably 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(3) Other Component (s) The cosmetic composition according to the present invention, such as a compacted powder, can also comprise a liquid fatty phase
(liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) ) generally referred to as binder. This liquid fatty phase can comprise an oil generally used in compact powders .
The oil can be chosen from oils conventionally used as a binder in compact powders. Among the additional oils which can be used, non-limiting mention may be made of mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil,
sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil or groundnut oil; hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffins, squalane, liquid petrolatum or polydecene; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, ■ 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or
diglyceryl triisostearate; silicone oils, such as
polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones or perfluorinated oils; oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; or higher fatty alcohols, such as cetanol or oleyl alcohol.
The liquid fatty phase can be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition. In one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase can be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a further embodiment of the present invention, the liquid fatty phase can be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition can comprise other conventional cosmetic
ingredients which can be chosen, for example, from antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, neutralizing agents, surfactants, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizing agents, self-tanning compounds or antiwrinkle active principles.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compound (s) and/or the amount (s) thereof such that the beneficial properties of the composition according to the present invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition. The composition according to the present invention can be an anhydrous composition, that is to say a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, such as less than 0.5% of water or devoid of water, the water not being added during the
preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the ingredients mixed.
(4) Preparation
The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase (fillers, pigments and the like) and by then adding the ester as well as the liguid fatty phase, if necessary, with stirring, the mixture subseguently being milled, sieved, then poured into a dish and compacted, if necessary.
The composition according to the present invention can be provided in the form of a compact powder.
The milled and sieved mixture of the pulverulent phase and of the fatty phase is compacted using a press, such as by applying a pressure ranging from 0.5 MPa to 10 Pa. In one embodiment of the present invention, the milled and sieved mixture of the
pulverulent phase and of the fatty phase is compacted by applying a pressure ranging from 1 MPa to 5 MPa.
If the above compacting process is not necessary, the composition according to the present invention can be provided in the form of a loose powder.
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present
invention can be used as various powdery cosmetic products, such as make-up products, in particular powdery foundations.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 The following powdery cosmetic compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1.
Table 1
[Sensory Evaluation]
Each formulation of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 or 2 in an amount of lg was applied to the skin of 6 panelists, and the cosmetic effects of each formulation were evaluated and compared.
Specifically, the formulation of Example 1 was applied to half on the face, and the formulation of Comparative Example 1 or 2 was applied to the other half of the face. The cosmetic effects of the former were compared to those of the latter. The evaluations by 6 panelists were averaged.
The averaged results show that Example 1 showed better cosmetic effects in terms of covering ability than Comparative Examples 1 and 2. Specifically, Example 1 was able to hide defects of the skin (color) better than Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and was able to make the defects less remarkable.. In addition, Example 1 was superior to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in terms of pick-up of a cosmetic composition from a container, and adhesiveness of a cosmetic composition to the skin.
Example 1 which comprises an ester an oligomer ester of
dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) was able to provide better covering effects as compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 which comprise an oligomer ester per se. This difference could be attributed to the good dispersibility of the ester of an oligomer ester as compared to the oligomer ester per se.
In addition, the make-up by Example 1 was natural and provided a transparent appearance. Furthermore, Example 1 showed better adhesiveness to the skin than Comparative Examples 1 and 2.