The present invention relates to a process for cosmetic treatment, in particular for conditioning hair, using the combination of two distinct compositions, one being said anhydrous and the other being said aqueous, to the kit comprising said two compositions, and to said anhydrous composition.

Hair that has been sensitized, embrittled or damaged under the action of atmospheric agents or of mechanical and chemical treatments, such as dyeing operations, bleaching operations and/or perming operations, is often difficult to disentangle and to style and generally lacks softness.

A solution to compensate for these problems is to use conditioning agents, in particular cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, fatty substances or silicones, to make hair easier to disentangle and to make them soft and supple.

These conditioning agents improve the disentangling and softness of wet and dried hair, but may however have a tendency to make the hair lank and dull.

Hair care compositions such as rinse-off conditioners, and leave- on masks, creams and milks, are generally emulsions of varying degrees of thickness. They deliver good cosmetic properties to hair; however, users some- times feel that their hair is heavy and that it becomes greasy easily, especially if they have fine hair.

Additionally, it is sometimes difficult to know how much of these compositions to use, and the user uses a lot of product with each application. It can also be difficult to distribute the composition evenly when applying it to the hair.

Often, to obtain good results on several properties, consumers need to use more than one conditioner.

Moreover, consumers always ask for compositions with new deliv- ery forms that can be applied in a novel manner, or that can be prepared by the consumer directly, just before application.

The purpose of the present invention is to propose a kit, and a process for cosmetic treatment that is combined with it, that allows users to prepare their cos- metic composition themselves just before they use it; said cosmetic composition moreover having improved use properties and further delivering good hair conditioning properties.

Therefore, one object of the present invention is a process for cosmetic treatment of keratin substances, comprising:

(i) a step of mixing

- a first cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, comprising one or more amino silicones and one or more cationic surfactants; and

- a second cosmetic composition, advantageously aqueous,

so as to obtain a final cosmetic composition;

(ii) then a step of applying said final cosmetic composition to the keratin substances.

A further object of the invention is a kit comprising:

- a first cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, comprising one or more amino silicones and one or more cationic surfactants; and

- a second cosmetic composition, advantageously aqueous.

The invention also concerns a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, comprising one or more amino silicones and one or more cationic surfactants.

It was observed that preparing the final composition was easy; by simply mixing, a final composition is obtained that has a creamy texture that feels pleasant and is easy to apply to hair; this final creamy composition spreads well on the hair and further rinses easily and quickly.

It gives the hair softness, smoothness and suppleness; it gives a natural and healthy feel, particularly to sensitized or embrittled hair; it is particularly well suited to curly hair, and delivers supple and shiny curls; a volume reduction can also be observed, which allows better hair control.

In the present description, the term "at least one" is equivalent to the term "one or more" and may be replaced therewith; the term "comprised between" is equivalent to the term "ranging from" and may be replaced therewith, which implies that the limits are included.

FIRST COMPOSITION

The kit according to the present invention therefore comprises a first cosmetic composition that is advantageously an anhydrous composition. The term "anhydrous" is understood in the present invention to mean a composition that comprises less than 15% by weight of water, preferably less than 12% by weight of water, and even better less than 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said first composition.

So the first cosmetic composition is advantageously a cosmetic composition with less than 15% by weight of water.

Said first composition comprises one or more amino silicones. The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight-average molecular weights of these amino silicones can be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/minute. 200 pi of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF is injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.

As amino silicone that may be used in the scope of this invention, the following can be cited:

a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): ?H ₃ OH

HO Si O Si O H

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₃

x

NH (A)

(CH ₂ ) ₂

NH ₂ in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5 000 and 500 000;

b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG ₂ )n-(OSiG _b R ^, 2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R ^, a (B)

in which:

- G, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, C-i-Ca alkyl group, for example methyl, or C-I-CB alkoxy group, for example methoxy,

- a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

- b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular ;

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent substituent having formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-Q-N(R ⁿ ) ₂

-N(R") ₂

-N ⁺ (R") ₃ A- -N ⁺ H(R") ₂ A- -N ⁺ H ₂ (R") A- -N(R")-Q-N ⁺ R"H ₂ A- -NR"-Q-N ⁺ (R") ₂ H A- -NR"-Q-N ⁺ (R") ₃ A-,

in which R", which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based substituent, for example a C1-C20 alkyl substituent; Q denotes a linear or branched C _r H2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" having formula (C):

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si

in which n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formulae (D) or (E):

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- R _{1 t} R ₂ , R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C4 alkoxy substituent, where at least one of the substituents Ri to R ₃ denotes an alkoxy substituent.

The alkoxy substituent is preferably a methoxy substituent.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000, more preferably from 3500 to 200 000.

CH, CH, CH, CH,

R -Si- O— Si O— Si O— Si— R.

(CH ₂ )

CH, CH,

NH

(CH ₂ )

NH- in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R ₂ , which are different, represent a hydroxy or C C ₄ alkoxy substituent, where at least one of the substituents Ri or R ₂ denotes an alkoxy substituent.

The alkoxy substituent is preferably a methoxy substituent.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 200 000, more preferably from 5000 to 100 000 and most preferably from 10 000 to 50 000.

Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number-average size of silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones having formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included). Accordingly, according to the invention the mi- croemulsions of amino silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to

1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to

2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene substituent containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This substituent is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2 000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3 500 to 200 000.

A silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene substituent containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This substituent is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.

A silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning.

c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

R _R — CH _? — CHOH— CH ₂ — N ⁺ (R ₅ ) ₃ Q ^"

(R ₅ ) ₃ — Si— O- -Si— O -Si— O- -Si-(R ₅ ) ₃ (H)

R _c in which:

- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based substituent containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C-i-C-ie alkyl or C ₂ -Cis al- kenyl substituent, for example methyl;

- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based substituent, in par- ticular a CrCis alkylene substituent or a divalent C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy substituent linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);

- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particu- lar from 2 to 8;

- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are described more particularly in patent US 4 185 087.

in which:

- R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon- based substituent containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-

Ci8 alkyl substituent, a C2-C18 alkenyl substituent or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based substituent, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene substituent or a divalent Ci-C ₁₈ , for example CrC ₈ , alkyleneoxy sub- stituent linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Re, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based substituent containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C Ci8 alkyl substituent, a C ₂ -Cie alkenyl substituent or a -R6- NHCOR7 substituent;

- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);

- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

e) amino silicones having formula (J): H ₂ N - (C _m H _2m ) - NH - (C _n H _2n ) - Si O R _C (J) in which:

- RL R2, R3 and R _4L which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C ₄ alkyl substituent or a phenyl group;

- R ₅ denotes a Ci-C ₄ alkyl substituent or a hydroxyl group;

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe ₂ 0) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O^^O^CsHeO^ -R'-Nil-O-R-]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe ₂ 0) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R' - 0(C ₂ H ₄ 0)a(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more preferably ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more preferably ranging from 5 to 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more preferably from 10 to 5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C ₂ hydrocarbon-based substituent, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene substituent, a linear or branched propylene substituent, a linear or branched butylene substituent, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH2- substituent; preferentially R denotes a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - substituent;

- R', which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C ₂ -Ci ₂ hydrocarbon-based substituent, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene substitu- ent, a linear or branched propylene substituent, a linear or branched butylene substituent, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - substituent; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more preferably from 70 to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably comprised between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropyleneglycol, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 000 000, more preferably between 10 000 and 200 000.

In particular silicones sold as Silsoft A-843 and Silsoft A+ by Momentive can be cited.

Preferably, amino silicones are chosen from multiblock polyoxyal- kylenated amino silicones.

Said first composition according to the invention preferably comprises said amino silicone(s) in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Said first composition also comprises one or more cationic surfactants. They are advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made in particular of:

- quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la):

in which:

the groups Re to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to R containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens.

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C C ₃ o alkyl, Ci-C ₃₀ alkoxy, (C ₂ -C ₆ )polyoxyalkylene, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, (C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ )alkyl(C ₂ C ₆ )alkylamido, (Ci ₂ -C ₂₂ )alkyl acetate and C C ₃ o hydroxyalkyl groups.

X ^' is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC^alkylsulfates, (CrC^alkylsulfonates and (C C alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la), preference is firstly given to tetraa!kylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethyl- ammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or secondly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldi- methyl(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride, which is sold in particular under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

- imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts having formula (lb):

in which

Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to

30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

RH represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;

Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C C alkyl group;

X ^" is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkylsulfates, (CrC ₄ )alkylsulfonates and (d- C )alkyl-arylsulfonates.

Ri2 and R preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, RH denotes a methyl group, and Ri ₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. A product of this kind is sold for example under the name Rewoquat ^® W 75 by the company Rewo.

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts having formula (lllb): 2+

R 17 R 19

^R 16— — (CH ₂ ) ₃ — N— R '2. 1 2X ^"

(l l lb)

R 18 R ^• 2.0 in which

R-I6 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, Ri ₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH ₂ )3-N ⁺ (Ri ₆ a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a),

Ri6a- Ri7a, Ri ea, Ri8 _> i9 _> R20 and R ₂ i , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

X ^" is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, ace- tates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (CrC ₄ )alkylsulfonates and (C _r C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester func

in which:

R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and Ci-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 groups R27; and a hydrogen atom;

R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=0)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C ₆ groups R ₂ g; and a hydrogen atom;

R24, 26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and 2, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^" is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R ₂₉ .

The alkyl groups R ₂₂ may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihy- droxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.

When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon-based group, it may be long and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is an R ₂ g hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R ₂ e, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂ i hydrocar- bon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂ i alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or differ- ent, are 2 or 3, and more particularly they are equal to 2.

The anion X ^" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (CrC^alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonate.

However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosy- late, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.

The anion X ^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts having formula (IVb) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R ₂ 3 is chosen from the group R ₂ 6-C(=0)-; methyl groups, ethyl groups or hydrocarbon-based C14-C22 groups; and a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13- C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IVb), examples that may be mentioned include salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacy- loxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammo- nium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 8 carbon atoms and are ob- tained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiiso- propanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart ^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for ex- ample, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypro- pyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetyltrimethyl- ammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and di- palmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Said first composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Said first composition may advantageously comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm), i.e. solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight. They are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance whose structure does not comprise any silicon atoms. The non-silicone fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain com- prising at least 6 carbon atoms and not comprising any siloxane groups.

Preferably, said first composition may advantageously comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, fatty ethers, non-silicone waxes and mixtures thereof.

The non-silicone fatty substances may be liquid or solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 1 atm).

As hydrocarbons that may be used, the following can be cited: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C-I6 alkanes; hexane, un- decane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, can be cited.

- linear or branched hydrocarbons composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.

Fatty alcohols that can be used may be liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, or may be solid.

They are advantageously not glycerolated and not oxyalkylenated, and preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They may be saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic. Among liquid saturated fatty alcohols, octyldo- decanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol can be cited.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic. Among liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and un- decylenyl alcohol can be cited.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.

The liquid fatty esters are preferably esters from a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid and/or a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty alcohol, and are liquid at 25°C, 1 atm. Preferably, these are liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C ₂ 6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonon- anoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopen- tanoate.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci-C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used. Mention may be made in particular of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n- propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) malate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

Mention may also be made of sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably Ci ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include saccharose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The es- ters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tet- raesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Finally, use may also be made of natural or synthetic glycerol esters of mono-, di- or triacids. Among these, mention may be made of plant oils. As oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the composi- tion of the invention as liquid fatty esters, the following can be cited, for example: triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, maca- damia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camel- lina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ^® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

The solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohol esters include, in particular, solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols. Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl oc- tanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

The liquid fatty ethers may be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether. The non-liquid fatty ethers are preferably chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and cera- mides.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules which may conform to the general formula below: R ₃ CHOH— CH— CH ₂ OR ₂

NH

I

c=o

I in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group which derives from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted in alpha position by a hydroxyl group, or in omega position by a hydroxyl group which is esterified with a saturated or unsaturated Ci ₆ -C ₃ o fatty acid;

- R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer from 1 to 4 and m is an integer from 1 to 8;

- R3 denotes a Ci ₅ -C ₂ 6 hydrocarbon group which is saturated or unsaturated in alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

with the proviso that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoce- ramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a Ci ₆ -C ₃ o alpha-hydroxyacid.

The ceramide or ceramides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom; and R ₃ denotes a saturated linear C15 group. Such compounds are, for example, N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmityldihydrosphingosine, N-stearyldihydrosphingosine or N- behenyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C3o fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a galac- tosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ₃ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ )i2-CH ₃ group.

Preferably, said first composition may comprise one or more non- silicone fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbons; saturated or unsaturated, liquid or non-liquid C8-C ₃₀ fatty alcohols; fatty esters, in particular C ₈ -C3 ₀ fatty esters, in particular liquid fatty esters; plant oils and in particular triglyceride oils of plant origin; and ceramides.

In a more preferred manner, it may comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances chosen from liquid C8-C30 fatty esters, plant oils, and solid C8-C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl- stearyl alcohol.

Said first composition may comprise the additional non-silicone fatty substance(s) in an amount preferably comprised between 0.5% and 25% by weight, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight and better comprised between 3% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Said first composition may advantageously comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants that may be chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci. 2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated or having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30, preferably from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; eth- oxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated ethers of methylglucose; (C6-C24 al- kyl)polyglycosides, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyhamine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Preferably, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated ethers of methylglucose and polyethoxylated fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof are used.

Said first composition according to the invention preferably comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Said first composition may advantageously comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, preferably hydrophilic (soluble or misci- ble in water) that may be chosen from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalco- hols, C2-C ₈ polyols, and C ₃ -C ₇ polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is chosen from C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or tri-diols. It can advantageously be chosen from among ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane-1 ,2-diol (propylene glycol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

Said first composition may comprise the organic solvent(s) in an amount preferably comprised between 20% and 95% by weight, in particular from 45% to 85% by weight and better comprised between 55% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, said first composition is present in the form of a translucent or even a transparent composition.

SECOND COMPOSITION

The kit according to the present invention also comprises a second cosmetic composition that is advantageously a cosmetic composition with 15% or more by weight of water and more advantageously an "aqueous" com- position.

In the sense of the present invention, aqueous is understood to mean a composition that comprises water at a concentration of at least 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, in particular from 70% to 98% by weight, better from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of said second composition.

Said second composition may further comprise one or more ingredients usually employed in cosmetics, in particular to deliver care, treatment or cosmetics to keratin substances, and/or to deliver use properties to the composition.

Said second composition may thereby comprise one or more cationic polymers, one or more silicones, one or more surfactants, one or more hydrophilic organic solvents as defined hereinbefore, one or more non-silicone fatty substances as defined hereinbefore, one or more thickeners; and/or one or more si- lanes.

Said second composition may also comprise one or more ingredients chosen from pearlizers and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter, pigments, fillers.

Advantageously, said second composition may comprise one or more cosmetic active agents in particular chosen from sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; hydroxyacids; vitamins; fragrances, es- sential oils.

A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition and the amounts thereof so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The pH of the second composition may vary from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 9, most preferably from 4 to 7.

KIT AND PROCESS OF COSMETIC TREATMENT

The kit according to the invention therefore comprises at least one first composition, advantageously anhydrous, as defined hereinbefore and a sec- ond composition, advantageously aqueous, as defined hereinbefore.

Each of these compositions may be packaged in all the possible forms for this type of formulation, in particular in a bottle, a pump bottle, a jar, a tube, an aerosol. Both packagings may be completely separated and grouped for example in a pack or blister pack. They may also be joined as in the case of a double tube or a double aerosol, with a double distribution system or with a distribution system that pre-mixes the two compositions.

Advantageously, each of the compositions is packaged separately, in particular in a bottle, a pump bottle or a jar, and both packagings may be separated or grouped, advantageously grouped.

Advantageously, the consumer will mix said first composition with said second composition, for example in a suitable container; preferably, the weight ratio first composition / second composition may vary from 0,2 to 5, preferably from 0,3 to 2, most preferably from 0,5 to 1.

After having optionally mixed said mixture, a final cosmetic composition is obtained that is ready to be applied to keratin substances, in particular hair. This final cosmetic composition advantageously has a creamy texture and appearance.

This final composition may in particular be applied before and/or after shampooing, colouring, particularly oxidative colouring, a permanent wave, straightening, or any other hair treatment.

This final (or resulting) cosmetic composition in particular finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for caring for and/or conditioning the hair. Advantageously, it is presented in the form of a conditioning product that can be rinsed off or left on; or also in hair gel, lotion, cream or mask form, in particular for care and/or conditioning.

The final cosmetic composition therefore may or may not be rinsed out after having been applied to the keratin substances, in particular hair. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an op- tional leave-in time. Preferably, it is rinsed out, after an optional leave-in time.

Therefore, the object of the invention is a process for cosmetic treatment of keratin substances, comprising :

(i) a mixing step

- of a first cosmetic composition, advantageously anhydrous, comprising one or more amino silicones and one or more cationic surfactants;

- with a second cosmetic composition, advantageously aqueous, so as to obtain a final cosmetic composition;

(ii) then a step of applying said final cosmetic composition to the keratin substances.

Preferably, the mixing step is conducted just prior to the application step, for example less than two hours, better less than one hour, even better less than 15 minutes, before the application step.

Preferably, said process optionally comprises a step of applying said final composition, for example during 2 to 15 minutes.

Preferably, said process optionally comprises a step of rinsing the final composition, for example with water, after any application time.

Preferably, this is a hair treatment process, particularly for caring for and/or conditioning hair, especially curly hair, or even sensitized, embrittled and/or damaged hair.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow (% MA = percentage of active material in the composition).

EXAMPLE 1

A hair composition for conditioning the hair is prepared, comprising (% MA) :

COMPOSITION A %

CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1 ,85%

BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE 1 ,1% COMPOSITION A %

MYRISTYL ALCOHOL 3%

CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3,3%

DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE 0,15%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3%

PEG-40/PPG-8 METHYLAMINOPROPYL / 0,89%

HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER

DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 0,33%

GLYCERIN 1 %

PROPYLENE GLYCOL 14,8%

PPG-10 METHYL GLUCOSE ETHER 0,89%

ETHANOL 59%

PRESERVATIVE, FRAGRANCE QS

WATER QSP 100%

In order to be applied on hair, this composition is mixed (diluted) with water, in a weight ratio composition A/water of 0,5.

The resulting composition has a creamy texture that feels pleasant and is easy to apply to hair; this composition spreads well on the hair and fur- ther rinses easily and quickly. It gives the hair softness, smoothness and suppleness; it gives a natural healthy feel,