PROCESS FOR TREATING THE HAIR WITH AT LEAST ONE SILICONE FUNCTIONALIZED WITH AT LEAST ONE ALKOXYSILANE UNIT, A PARTICULAR

SOLVENT AND LESS THAN 5% WATER

The invention relates to a process for treating the hair using a particular composition.

Two major categories of hair shaping products are generally used: styling products and perming products.

Styling products allow non-permanent shaping of the hair. They are used on wet or dry hair before shaping by hand or using a brush or a comb. They are in the form of gels, foams, waxes, pastes, lacquers or sprays. After they have been applied to the hair and after drying, these products harden substantially. This is reflected by an unnatural, embodied, dry feel required for the hold and volume of the hairstyle. Moreover, they do not show good resistance to moisture, and a head of hair loses its shape when exposed to a humid atmosphere, all the more so in a hot and humid atmosphere. Thus, firstly, the general shape of the hairstyle is rapidly lost and, secondly, the hair becomes frizzy, more particularly for hair that is naturally frizzy.

To improve the feel, it is known practice to use silicones, or silicone derivatives, in particular amino silicones and amino silicones bearing silanol functions that are capable of reacting together to form new bonds. Silicones give a natural, soft, non- greasy and non-set feel. They may also be partially water-resistant, which makes it possible to conserve the soft, natural feel. However, they cannot afford shaping of the head of hair or combat the appearance of frizziness, unless a very large amount of product is applied, which gives a greasy feel. As they only sparingly compensate for the dry feel when they are combined with other types of styling product such as fixing polymers, the combination of these two techniques remains relatively unsatisfactory.

Moreover, these styling products are removed on shampooing. They therefore need to be applied daily.

Perming products allow long-lasting shaping of a head of hair.

Generally, the technique used for permanently reshaping the hair consists, in a first stage, in opening the -S-S- disulfide bonds of keratin (cystine) by applying to the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand (with curlers and other tensioning means), a reducing composition (reduction step) and then, preferably after having rinsed the head of hair thus treated, in reconstituting the said disulfide bonds in a second stage by applying to the hair, which is still under tension, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also known as the fixing step) so as to finally give the hair the desired shape. The new shape given to the hair by a chemical treatment such as that above is long-lasting over time and especially withstands the action of washing with water or with shampoos.

However, such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. Specifically, this technique is very effective for modifying the shape of the hair, but is very degrading to hair fibres.

These two systems do not afford sufficient cosmeticity and/or durability of the effect obtained.

Document WO 201 1/080 034 describes compositions comprising a macromolecule with an alkoxysilyl function and a trialkoxysilane, for treating the hair, especially for temporarily reshaping keratin fibres, which show good resistance to washing. However, the cosmetic properties given to the hair are not entirely satisfactory.

Consequently, there is still a need for a hair treatment process for giving the hair the desired shape in a long-lasting manner, while at the same time having very good cosmetic properties.

It is an aim of the present invention precisely to satisfy these needs.

According to one of its aspects, the invention relates to a hair treatment process using a composition comprising:

- at least one organic solvent,

- less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

- one or more polymers containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined previously, for treating the hair, and in particular for shaping the hair.

The composition used in the process of the invention comprises one or more polymers containing ilicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups.

The polymer(s) containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups are preferably of formula (I) below:

in which:

- Z ₂ represents a group CH ₂ -NR ₃ R ₄ ; - Z ₃ represents a group OR ₅ or R ₆ ;

- R ₂ and R ₃ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group R ₇ ;

- R-i, R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a Ci-C ₆ alkyl group and R ₄ represents a Ci-C ₆ alkyl group or a C ₅ -C ₆ cycloalkyl group;

R ₃ and R ₄ possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a 5- to 8- membered heterocycle comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms,

R _a and R _b , which may be identical or different, represent a Ci-C ₂ alkyl group, n represents an integer greater than 1.

Preferably, the Ci-C ₆ alkyl groups are methyl or ethyl groups.

Preferably, Ri is an ethyl group.

When R ₄ represents a C ₅ -C ₆ cycloalkyl group, it preferably represents a C ₆ cycloalkyl group such as cyclohexyl.

Preferably, n ranges from 1 to 10 000, more preferably from 5 to 1000 and more preferentially from 8 to 400.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, Z ₂ represents a group -CH ₂ -NR ₃ R ₄ , R ₄ represents an alkyl group, preferably a cyclohexyl, R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom and R ₅ represents an ethyl group.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, R ₃ and R ₄ form, with the nitrogen that bears them, a cyclic group, preferably morpholino, and R ₅ represents an ethyl group.

Preferably, SiR _a Rb-[OSiR _a Rb]n- of formula (I) is a unit derived from a linear silicone with a weight-average molecular weight of between 200 and 40 000 and more preferentially between 400 and 25 000.

As examples of polymers corresponding to formula (I), mention will be made of:

- olymers of formula (la)

(la) The polymers of formula (la) may be obtained by reacting a silicone bearing hydroxyl end groups with triethoxycyclohexylaminomethylsilane especially according to the techniques described in document WO 2005/108 495.

According to a particular example, polymer (laa), corresponding to formula (la), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g/mol. polymers of formula lb)

(Ib)

The polymers of formula (lb) may be obtained by reacting a silicone bearing hydroxyl end groups with diethoxycyclohexylaminomethylmethylsilane especially according to the techniques described in document WO 2005/108 495.

According to a particular example, polymer (Iba), corresponding to formula (lb), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g/mol. polymers of formula (lc)

(lc)

The polymers of formula (lc) may be obtained by reacting a silicone bearing hydroxyl end groups with triethoxymorpholinomethylsilane especially according to the techniques described in document WO 2009/019 165.

According to a particular example, polymer (lea), corresponding to formula (lc), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g/mol. According to another particular example, polymer (lcb), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass of 10 600 g/mol.

According to another particular example, polymer (Ice), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass of 14 600 g/mol.

According to another particular example, polymer (led), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 21 100 g/mol.

According to another particular example, polymer (Ice), corresponding to formula

(Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 550 g/mol.

According to another particular example, polymer (lef), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 1000 g/mol.

According to another particular example, polymer (leg), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 1200 g/mol.

According to another particular example, polymer (lch), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 1700 g/mol. polymers of formula (Id)

(Id)

The polymers of formula (Id) may be obtained by reacting a silicone bearing hydroxyl end groups with diethoxymorpholinomethylmethylsilane especially according to the techniques described in document WO 2009/019 165.

According to a particular example, the polymer of formula (Ida), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 4750 g/mol. According to another particular example, the polymer of formula (Idc), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 10 600g/mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer of formula (Idb), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 14 600 g/mol.

According to a particular example, the polymer of formula (Idd), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting with a silicone with a weight-average molecular mass Mw of 21 100 g/mol.

The content of the polymer(s) containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), in the composition generally ranges from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The process according to the invention may also use one or more catalysts for catalysing the hydrolysis-condensation reactions of the alkoxysilane functions of the polymer containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups.

The catalyst may be chosen from acids and bases.

The acid may be chosen from mineral acids and organic acids.

The acid may be chosen in particular from lactic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid, preferably hydrochloric acid.

The base may be chosen from mineral bases and organic bases.

The base may be chosen from ammonia and sodium hydroxide.

The catalyst may also be chosen from alkoxysilane monomers, optionally bearing an amine function, such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane or octyltriethoxysilane.

The catalyst may be present in the composition used in the process according to the invention, or it may be mixed at the time of use with the composition, or alternatively may be applied sequentially to the hair before or after the composition.

The catalyst(s) may represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 % to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.01 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

As indicated previously, the composition used in the process according to the invention comprises less than 5% water. The composition may be aqueous or anhydrous. If the composition is aqueous, it thus comprises less than 5% water, better still less than 3% water and even better still less than 2% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents.

The organic solvent(s) are preferably chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The alcohols are linear or branched Ci-C ₆ monoalcohols or polyols.

The esters may be natural or synthetic.

The esters may be chosen especially from plant oils and esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, such as isopropyl myristate.

The alkanes may be chosen especially from linear or branched C ₆ -Ci ₅ alkanes and liquid paraffins.

The silicones may be chosen especially from cyclic silicones comprising from 4 to 6 silicon atoms and linear polydimethylsiloxanes.

Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, isopropyl myristate, ethyl adipate, ethyl acetate, linear low-molecular-weight silicones or cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, and also mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and glycerol.

The organic solvents used in the process of the invention are liquids which preferably have a viscosity at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure of less than or equal to 100 cSt.

The organic solvent(s) may represent from 10% to 99.8%, preferably from 30% to 98% by weight and better still from 35% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may be in the form of a solution, a dispersion or an emulsion. The polymer may be emulsified as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or as a multiple emulsion.

The composition may also contain one or more additives chosen from conditioning agents, nonionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and liposoluble sunscreens, fillers and solid particles, for instance mineral and organic, coloured or uncoloured pigments, nacreous agents and opacifiers, glitter flakes, mineral fillers, dyes, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, basifying agents, mineral and organic thickeners, antioxidants, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, hydroxy acids, penetrants, fragrances and preserving agents. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional compounds and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the compositions used according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The composition may be in the form of a foam, a gel, a serum, a cream, a paste, a wax, a liquid lotion or a lacquer.

The composition may be packaged in a pump-dispenser bottle or in an aerosol device.

When it is packaged in an aerosol-type device, the liquid phase/propellant weight ratio of the pressurized composition of the present invention is preferably between 50 and 0.05, and in particular between 50 and 1 .

For the aerosol formulations, any liquefiable gas that is usually used in aerosol devices will be used as propellant gas. Use will be made especially of dimethyl ether, C3-C5 alkanes, chlorinated and/or fluorinated, halogenated or non-halogenated, and volatile, hydrocarbons usually used in aerosol devices. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air, or mixtures thereof, may also be used as propellant.

Preferably, the compound(s) constituting the propellant gas used are chosen from non-halogenated C ₃ -C ₅ alkanes, such as propane, n-butane and isobutane, halogenated, and in particular chlorinated and/or fluorinated, C ₃ -C ₅ alkanes, such as 1 ,1 -difluoroethane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkane(s) of the propellant gas are non-halogenated. Even more preferentially, the propellant gas is dimethyl ether or a mixture of propane, n-butane and isobutane.

In the case of aerosol foams, the composition introduced into the aerosol device may, for example, be in the form of a lotion, or dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aerosol device, form foams to be applied to keratin materials.

These foams are preferably sufficiently stable not to rapidly liquefy and preferably must also rapidly disappear, either spontaneously or during the massaging which serves to make the composition penetrate into keratin materials and/or to distribute the composition over keratin materials and more particularly the head of hair and/or the hair.

In the case of aerosol foams, the composition according to the invention may also contain at least one cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant.

The propellant gas is present in the composition according to the invention in proportions preferably ranging from 1 % to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 1 .5% to 50% by weight and better still from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The aerosol device used for packaging the composition may be made up of two compartments, consisting of an outer aerosol can comprising an inner bag hermetically sealed to a valve. The composition is introduced into the inner bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to make the product come out in the form of a spray through a nozzle orifice. Such a device is sold, for example, under the name EP Spray by the company EP-Spray System SA. The said compressed gas is preferably used at a pressure of between 1 and 12 bar and even better still between 9 and 1 1 bar.

In the process according to the invention, the composition is applied to wet or dry hair.

Depending on the desired type of hairstyle, it is applied in combination with a heating tool or at room temperature.

The heating tool may be a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a hood or a hairdryer.

The composition may or may not, as indicated above, additionally contain a catalyst that may be chosen from acids and bases.

According to a particular embodiment, the application may be performed in a single stage. In this case, a composition containing both one or more polymers containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), one or more organic solvents, and less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally one or more catalysts as defined previously, will be applied.

In this one-stage embodiment, the composition applied to the hair may result from the mixing of a composition comprising one or more polymers containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), one or more organic solvents, and less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and of a composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined previously.

According to another embodiment, the application may be performed in two stages: in a step (A), the composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined previously is applied, in a step (B), the composition comprising one or more polymers containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), one or more organic solvents chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters and silicones, and mixtures thereof, and less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition is applied; in this embodiment, step (A) may be performed, followed by step (B), or alternatively step (B) may be performed, followed by step (A), with or without intermediate drying. Preferably, step (A) is performed, followed by step (B). In this particular embodiment, intermediate drying is preferably performed.

The process according to the invention may be performed using one or more compositions packaged in a device containing several compartments comprising:

- a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more polymers containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), at least one organic solvent, and less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;

- a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined previously.

The device according to the invention may be intended for a one-stage or a two- stage application.

In the case of a one-stage application, the compositions of the first and second compartments may be dispensed simultaneously at the time of application.

Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition comprising one or more polymers containing silicone units and bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), at least one organic solvent, and less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, for treating the hair, and in particular for shaping the hair.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples, which are provided by way of illustration and without implied limitation of the invention.

Examples The following compositions are prepared for performing the process of the invention, the contents being expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Polymer (laa) 5

Polymer (Iba) 5

Polymer (lea) 5 5 10 10 32

Polymer (Ida) 5

Polymer (Idb) 5

Polymer (Idc) 5

Isopropanol 95 90 68 95 Cyclopentadecamethylsilox 95 95 95 90 95 95 ane

Examples 27 28 29 30 31 32

Polymer (lea) 5 5 5 5 5 5

APTES at 10% in ethanol 1 1

APTES at 10% in water 1

APTES at 10% in water, lactic acid qs pH 10 1

Citric acid at 8.7% in ethanol 1

Tartaric acid at 6.8% in ethanol 1 Isododecane 94 94 94 40 40 40

Ethanol 54 54 54

Examples of compositions in the form of an aerosol system

^* APTES: aminopropyltriethoxysilane

Examples 45 46 47 48 49 50 51

Polymer (Ice) 5 5 5 5

Polymer (lef) 5

Polymer (leg) 5

Polymer (lch) 5

APTES ^* 10% as an aqueous solution 1

APTES ^* 10% as a solution in ethanol 1

Isododecane 95 95 95 95

Isopropanol 95 94 94 Various application modes are envisaged:

1 ) One-stage application with a heating tool:

The compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, 13, 21 to 26, 27 to 32 and 45 to 51 were applied to locks of straight chestnut-brown Caucasian hair, with a bath ratio of 0.5.

The lock is predried and is then rolled up on a hot curling iron, at a temperature above 100°C, for 30 seconds, without adhesion to or degradation on the iron.

To evaluate the hold over time, the locks are suspended vertically over a paper and their relaxation is evaluated over time by marking the end of the lock on the paper.

To evaluate the resistance to moisture, the locks are placed in a chamber at controlled humidity (70%) for 24 hours.

The locks obtained with the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, 13, 21 to 26 and 27 to 32 have a cohesive curl, i.e. the hairs are stuck together in the curl.

The locks treated with the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, 13, 21 to

26 and 27 to 32 have very good hold over time and resistance to moisture.

The use of a hairdryer to perform blow-drying, and the use of flat heating tongs, instead of a curling iron, makes it possible to obtain another type of styling, characterized by a soft feel, very good discipline, namely with a parallel alignment of the hairs, and which withstands moisture.

Compositions 3, 8, 13, 14, 17, 19, 48 and 51 were applied to 2.7 g curly locks, washed beforehand and manually dried but still humid, with a bath ratio of 0.4. Blow- drying was then performed until the hair appeared dried. The hairs of the locks thus treated are straight and aligned, and the effect is preserved after 24 hours of exposure to a humidity of 70%.

Compositions 13, 14, 48 and 51 were applied to 2.7 g curly locks, washed beforehand and manually dried but still humid, with a bath ratio of 0.4. Blow-drying was then performed until the hair appeared dry, followed by ten treatments with flat tongs at 210°C. The hairs of the locks thus treated are straight and aligned, and the effect is preserved after 24 hours of exposure to a humidity of 70%.

2) Application of styling product without heating

The application may also be performed in one stage on short hair, without heating, to obtain a styling effect.

3) Application as an aerosol

The composition according to Examples 33 to 38 and 40 to 43 was applied to a lock of natural straight hair 27 cm long, weighing 5.4 g, with a separation of 15 cm, for 3 seconds. Good fixing combined with a soft cosmetic feel, which is not tacky after drying, easy to remove by brushing and not having any residues, was obtained.

The composition according to Example 39 or 44 was applied to medium-length hair, at 15 cm, for 6 to 8 seconds on each side. Good fixing combined with a soft cosmetic feel, which is not tacky, easy to disentangle by simple brushing and not having any residues, was thus obtained.

Compositions according to examples 3, 13 and 52 to 58 below have been applied to locks of straight natural wet hair, with a bath ratio of 0.5.

Each lock has been predried and then rolled up on a hot curling iron, at a temperature above 100 C, for 30 seconds.

To evaluate the hold of the curl over time, the locks have been suspended vertically over a paper and their relaxation has been evaluated over time by marking the end of the lock on the paper. Then, the locks have been placed vertically in a chamber at controlled humidity (80%) for 24 hours. The locks have then been suspended vertically over a paper again and their relaxation evaluated by marking the end of the lock on the paper.

To evaluate the resistance to moisture of the curl, the difference between the length of the lock before its introduction in the chamber and after 24h in the chamber has been measured and the shape of the curls observed.

The results are indicated in the table below :

O Good (Few or no elongation of the lock and few or no modification of the shape of the curls)

A insufficient (important elongation of the lock and important modification of the shape of the curls)

φ Bad (very important elongation of the lock and important modification of the shape of the curls)