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Patent Searching and Data


Title:
PROTEIN FORMULATIONS
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2022/156876
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
Cosmetic composition.

Inventors:
ZAVALA RAYA ANA KAREN (MX)
CRUZ CERVANTES OSVALDO JOSÉ FABIÁN (MX)
DE MORAL YANEL (MX)
Application Number:
PCT/EP2021/050998
Publication Date:
July 28, 2022
Filing Date:
January 19, 2021
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
BEIERSDORF AG (DE)
International Classes:
A61K8/00
Domestic Patent References:
WO2012120290A22012-09-13
WO2008070368A22008-06-12
WO2019204793A12019-10-24
WO2006103123A12006-10-05
Foreign References:
CN104523553A2015-04-22
US20100093599A12010-04-15
Other References:
"International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 2010
Download PDF:
Claims:
Claims

1. Cosmetic skin care composition comprising, based on the total weight of the composition, a) 0.05 to 8.0% by weight of at least one protein, b) at least one emollient, and c) Water.

2. Use, based on the total weight of the composition, of 0.05% to 8.0% by weight of at least one protein and at least one emollient to thicken a cosmetic skin care composition further containing water.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2 characterized in that the total content of the proteins in the compositions is from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the protein contained is a globular protein.

5. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one protein selected from the group of proteins that are globulin and/or albumin.

6. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that one or more proteins of the group of globulins and/or albumins are contained and the total quantity of those proteins is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition or use according to one of the claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the composition comprises one or more proteins of the group consisting of plant based proteins.

8. Composition or use according to claim 7 characterized in that the total quantity of plant based proteins is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition or use according to one of the claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the composition comprises one or more proteins of the group consisting of sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein, fava bean protein, collagen, keratin, algae derived proteins and yeast derived proteins. Composition or use according to claim 9 characterized in that the total quantity of the proteins selected from the group consisting of sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein, fava bean protein, collagen, keratin, algae derived proteins and yeast derived proteins is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1 % to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emollient contained in the composition is selected from the group of cosmetic butters. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that cupuacu butter, murumuru butter and/or butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter are contained as emollient. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of the cosmetic butters is in the range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5% to 18% by weight and most preferred 8% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is contained in the composition and the total quantity of butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is in the range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5% to 18% by weight and most preferred 8% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that at least one natural oil is contained. Composition or use according to claim 11 characterized in that the total quantity of natural oils is in the range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight and most preferably 1 .0 to 3.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of xanthan gum, succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that xanthan gum is contained in the composition and the total quantity of xanthan gum is in the range from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the pH of the composition is in the range from 3.5 to 7.5. Composition or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises further emulsifier in a total quantity of less than 1.0% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.3% by weight, still more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and most preferably 0% by weight.

19

Description:
PROTEIN FORMULATIONS

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition comprising proteins.

A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as body lotions, sunscreens or deodorant compositions.

Cosmetic skin care compositions which are meant to be applied to the whole body apart from the head are commonly called body lotions. Those products are usually characterized in that they comprise an aqueous phase and an oil phase, whereby one of the two phases is suspended in the other. Commonly those formulations are stabilized by emulsifiers avoiding a separation of the two phase. Due to the suspension of both phases the formulations usually have a milk like appearance.

In order to allow an easy and effective application of the products to the skin it is further essential to adjust the rheological properties of those formulations. Otherwise, for the case the formulation is too thin, the formulation might run off the hands once the composition is taken out of a packing. Typically, polymers based on homo or copolymerization with acrylic acid are used to adjust the rheological properties. Formulations which are particular suitable to be used as body lotion are commonly characterized in that they have a viscosity in the range from 1000 to 15000 mPa s at 25°C.

Typical formulations of that kind are disclosed in WO 2006103123 A1.

However, due to the not known degradability of the described polymers in the environment it is in the interest of all if formulations do not require the presence of acrylic polymers anymore. Therefore, a general need exist for alternative formulations which do not require the presence of this polymers. Further, it is required that such formulations are stable for a prolonged amount of time. That means that no separation of the included water and oil phase is observed, e.g. at elevated temperatures at 40°C. Further novel approaches are needed to allow an effective thickening of the formulations. The present invention shall address at least some of the needs outlined above.

The present invention is a cosmetic skin care composition comprising, based on the total weight of the composition, a) 0.05 to 8.0% by weight of at least one protein, b) at least one emollient, and c) Water.

All weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

The term “skin” refers solely to human skin.

A further object of the present invention is the use, based on the total weight of the composition, of 0.05% to 8.0% by weight of at least one protein and at least one emollient to thicken a cosmetic skin care composition further containing water.

According to the invention it is preferred if the composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is an oil in water emulsion.

It is preferred if the total content of the proteins in the compositions is from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

The person skilled in art is aware that proteins may be subdivided depending on their structure:

Fibrous proteins are linear (long fibrous) in shape. Typical examples are a-Keratin, - Keratin and Collagen. Globular proteins are spherical or globular in shape. Typical examples are those found in the group of globulins. Particular examples are a-lactalbumin, p- lactoglobulin, myoglobin and hemoglobin.

Further, proteins may also be classified according to their composition:

Simple proteins are composed of only amino acids, whereby the proteins may be fibrous or globular. Typical simple proteins are bovine albumin and casein.

Conjugate proteins are complex proteins, which contain one or more non-amino acid components. Typical examples are lipoproteins or glycoproteins.

According to the invention it is preferred if the at least one protein contained is characterized in that the protein contained is a globular protein. Following this, it is preferred if the total content of the globular protein(s) in the composition is from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, it is also preferred if the composition comprises at least one protein selected from the group of proteins that are globulin and/or albumin.

Globulins and albumins are globular proteins. Globulins are proteins which, for example are present in peas.

For the case that one or more proteins of the group of globulins and/or albumins are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those proteins is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Following this, it is preferred if the total content of the globulins in the composition is from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further, it is preferred if the total content of the albumins in the composition is from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present invention, it is preferred if the composition comprises one or more proteins of the group consisting of plant based proteins. Plant based proteins are considered as proteins which are soured from plants in any form.

In this embodiment it is preferred if the total quantity of plant based proteins is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment of the present invention, it is preferred if the composition comprises one or more proteins of the group consisting of sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein, fava bean protein, collagen, keratin, algae derived proteins and yeast derived proteins.

More preferred are sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein, fava bean protein, algae derived proteins and/or yeast derived proteins.

Most preferred are sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein and/or fava bean protein.

According to this embodiment, it is preferred if the total quantity of the proteins selected from the group consisting of sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein, fava bean protein, collagen, keratin, algae derived proteins and yeast derived proteins is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to this embodiment, it is further preferred if the total quantity of the proteins selected from the group consisting of sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein, fava bean protein, algae derived proteins and yeast derived proteins is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to this embodiment, it is further preferred if the total quantity of the proteins selected from the group consisting of sunflower proteins, chickpea proteins, pea proteins, lentil proteins, lupin proteins, rice protein and fava bean protein is in the range from 0.05% to 8.0%, more preferably from 2.1% to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 2.8% to 4.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention the composition is characterized in that it comprises at least one emollient.

Emollients are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emollient".

For the case that at least one emollient is contained in the cosmetic composition it is preferred if the total quantity of the emollients is in the range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5% to 18% by weight and most preferred 8% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Preferred emollients to be contained in the composition are selected from the group of cosmetic butters. It is particular preferred if cupuacu butter, murumuru butter and/or butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter are contained. It is most preferred if the emollient system comprises at least butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter.

For the case that at least one cosmetic butter is contained in the cosmetic composition it is preferred if the total quantity of the cosmetic butters is in the range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5% to 18% by weight and most preferred 8% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that cupuacu butter, murumuru butter and/or butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter are contained in the composition it is preferred if the total quantity of cupuacu butter, murumuru butter and/or butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is in the range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5% to 18% by weight and most preferred 8% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is contained in the composition it is preferred if the total quantity of butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is in the range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5% to 18% by weight and most preferred 8% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. For the case that the composition comprises further an oil and/or wax component that is liquid under normal conditions it is preferred if at least one natural oil is contained. Preferred natural oils are selected from the list soya oil, cotton seed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, vegetable oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, peach kernel oil and/or the liquid fractions of coconut oil. Most preferred is vegetable oil.

It is preferred if the composition comprises further oil and/or wax components that are liquid under normal conditions, it is preferred if the total quantity of those ingredients is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight and most preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the total quantity of natural oils, if present, is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight and most preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the total quantity of natural oils selected from the list of soya oil, cotton seed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, vegetable oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, peach kernel oil and/or the liquid fractions of coconut oil, if present, is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight and most preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is most preferred if the total quantity of vegetable oil is in the range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight and most preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Preferred embodiments of the invention are characterized in that at least one further oil or wax component is contained, which has a natural origin index of at least 0.5, whereby the natural origin index of the components is determined as outlined in the ISO 16128-2:2017; First Edition 2017-09. For example C18-38 Alkyl Beeswax has a Natural origin index of 0.55.

Further, it is preferred if the composition comprises further at least one fatty alcohol selected from the group of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol. Thereby, it is preferred if the total quantity of those fatty alcohols is in the range from 0.5 to 6% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 5.5% by weight and most preferably from 2.2 to 4.2% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the composition comprises an outer aqueous phase and an inner oil phase.

Further it is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises one or more polysaccharide, preferably at least one gum. Preferred polysaccharides are selected from the group of xanthan gum, succinoglycan, sclerotium gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Most preferred is xanthan gum.

For the case that at least one polysaccharide is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of the polysaccharides is in the range from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.04 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that at least one gum is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of the gums is in the range from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.04 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that xanthan gum is contained in the composition, it is preferred if the total quantity of xanthan gum is in the range from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the composition does not comprise a polymer formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid. The quantities of those polymers is 0% by weight of the composition.

It should be noted that it was quite surprising that in the absence of acrylic polymers as described above and with low quantities of polysaccharides a very high viscosity could be achieved using the ingredients of the present invention.

According to the invention it is further preferred if the composition comprises ethanol in small quantities, ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably further characterized in that they contain at least one fatty acid having 12 to 20 carbon atoms. If those fatty acids are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 0.1 to 2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Further it is preferred if the composition comprises glycerol, whereby it is preferred if the total quantity of glycerol is in the range from 1.0 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 10.0% and most preferably 3.0 to 8.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the composition comprises p-anisic acid, levulinic acid and/or sodium levulinate.

It is preferred if the total quantity of p-anisic acid, levulinic acid and/or sodium levulinate is in the range from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8% by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Further it is preferred if the composition comprises phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and/or hydroxyacetophenone.

For the case that phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the case that hydroxyacetophenone is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of hydroxyacetophenone is in the range from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention the composition is characterized in that at least one UV- filter is contained.

The term UV filter is understood as a substance which is listed in the IIV-A and IIV-B filter list in the Annex VI of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

It is preferred if composition comprises at least one organic UV-filter, which is selected from the group consisting of camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, homosalate, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, peg-25 paba, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl dimethyl paba, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, tris-biphenyl triazine / tris-biphenyl triazine and phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine.

It is further preferred if the composition comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, whereby the total quantity of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 3.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.

It is further preferred if the composition comprises ethylhexyl salicylate, whereby the total quantity of ethylhexyl salicylate is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 9% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 7.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.

It is further preferred if the composition comprises ethylhexyl triazone, whereby the total quantity of ethylhexyl triazone is preferably in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.

It is further preferred if the composition comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, whereby the total quantity of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 2.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.

It is further preferred if the total quantity of all organic UV filters is in the range from 5 to 18% by weight, more preferably 7 to 15% by weight and most preferably 8.5 to 12.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Nevertheless, it is preferred if the composition of the invention is free from octocrylene. That means the content of octocrylene is preferably 0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Further, it is preferred if the composition comprises titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide in order to improve the light protection factor.

Furthermore, it is preferred if the total content of water is in the range from 65% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 68 to 75% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition

It was surprisingly noticed that the compositions were actually stable for a prolonged amount of time, even though no further emulsifier needed to be present. Accordingly it is further preferred if the composition comprises further emulsifier in a total quantity of less than 1.0% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.3% by weight, still more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and most preferably 0% by weight. Accordingly it is most preferred if the composition does not comprise further emulsifier.

Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant".

The compositions of the invention may further comprise active ingredients which can have a beneficial aspect for the human skin. Preferred examples of such active ingredients are glycyrrhetinic acid, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and I or synthetic isoflavonoids, glycerylglucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamides, vitamin A palmitate, retinol, panthenol, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, licochalcon A, 4-butylresorcinol, N - [(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl] isobutyramide, honociol and magnolol (also as a component of Magnolia- Extracts), hyaluronic acid and I or silymarin.

Further, it is preferred according to the invention, if the pH of the composition is in the range from 3.5 to 7.5.

If viscosity values are disclosed in this document, all values relate unless otherwise described to a measurement at 25 ° C in a 150 ml wide neck bottle (VWR no .: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotation viscometer. The force is measured that is required to make the measuring body rotate in the sample at a specified speed. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body used is measuring body No. 1 (item no. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range up to 10,000 [mPa s], speed range 62.5 min' 1 .

Examples:

The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The following preparations according to the invention (Ex.x, whereby x in an integer number) were prepared. Com.1 is a comparative example.

The viscosity of the formulations was analyzed as described above and classified in the following groups:

* Comprises at least 80% by weight of Globulins (legumin, vicilin and convicilin) and minor parts of Albumin.