STICK COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, USE OF THE STICK COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE STICK COSMETIC

COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a stick cosmetic composition comprising fatty compound, surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant actives, talc and perlite. The stick cosmetic composition of the present invention provides a product with desired hardness, stability and sensoriality. Also, the present invention is directed to the use of the stick cosmetic composition and the process for manufacturing the stick cosmetic composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Sweating, though a natural bodily function, results in the formation of wet patches on human skin and/or clothing. Moreover, the sweat secreted from sweat glands has a tendency to form a malodorous odor due to its interaction with the many microorganisms which reside on the skin surface, particularly the skin of the underarm. These two phenomena are deemed to be undesirable in many societies.

Products are commonly available which help to address both phenomena. More particularly, antiperspirant products possess ingredients which inhibit/suppress sweating, whereas antiperspirant and deodorant products possess ingredients that mask the malodors caused by sweat. Many products address both phenomena simultaneously.

The antiperspirant and deodorants active agents generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxy halides, among others. These substances help to reduce the flow of sweat.

However, to achieve a satisfactory antiperspirant and deodorant effect, it is needed to use high concentrations of antiperspirant active agents. Such high concentration of antiperspirant active agents affects the stabilization of the antiperspirant composition in view of the interaction with the other ingredients, as well as can cause irritation to the skin.

A variety of different antiperspirant and deodorants products are available in the market, such as powders, liquids, gels or soft solids and sticks. The stick form can be distinguished from a gel or a paste in that in a stick, the formulated product can maintain its shape for extended time periods outside the package, wherein the product does not significantly lose its shape, except for the shrinkage due to solvent evaporation.

Sticks for topical application to skin, for example, to an armpit, are perceived to be dry, moisturizing, and easy to apply.

However, some drawbacks are usually pointed out by customers, such as the presence of an unpleasant feeling of powdery and rough and/or fail to provide a feeling of freshness, due to the fact that said composition does not comprise water in its formula, so being anhydrous, as well as the presence of white stains on clothes and on skin, and physicochemical instability of the stick (hardness and weight loss).

Another problem related to stick formulas are directed to hairy armpits consumers, wherein it was reported that such galenic form has sensorial (oiliness) issues, since the product seems to be more difficult to absorb due to the presence of the hair. Also, it was observed physicochemical instability in such galenic form, such as weight loss and hardness decrease over time at extreme conditions of temperature and humidity.

Therefore, to solve the above mentioned problems of the state of the art, the inventors of the present invention developed a stick cosmetic composition, which comprises fatty compound, surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant actives, talc and perlite.

Due to the specific combination of talc and perlite, the inventors achieved a stick cosmetic composition that provides the desired texture and hardness of the product, keeping the hardness stable, good stability under extreme conditions of temperature and humidity, avoiding cracks, weight loss, good dry touch (matte effect), less oiliness sensation and oily stains in clothes and good efficacy against sweat odor and transpiration, especially for hairy armpits consumers.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises fatty compound, surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant actives, talc and perlite.

Such stick composition provides a product with desired texture and stable hardness, good stability under extreme conditions of temperature and humidity, avoiding cracks, weight loss, good dry touch (matte effect), less oiliness sensation and oily stains in clothes and good efficacy against sweat odor and transpiration, especially for hairy armpits consumers, due to the specific combination of talc and perlite.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present invention. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable to use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the invention concepts as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant state of the art.

The stick cosmetic composition of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

All percentages, parts and ratios are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the specific ingredient level and, therefore, do not include solvents, carriers, by-products, fillers (preferably talc and perlite) or other minor ingredients that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.

The term "anhydrous" as used herein means that the antiperspirant composition of the present invention and the essential or optional components thereof, are substantially free of added or free water. From a formulation standpoint, this means that the antiperspirant compositions of the present invention contain less than about 2%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about 0.5%, most preferably zero percent, by weight of free or added water.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which can encompass +/- 10%, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0.5%.

The term “stable” used herein refers to a physical or chemical property of a cosmetic composition such as an antiperspirant and/or deodorant anhydrous stick that does not change significantly over time, as well as there is no breakage of the stick bar. For example, no significant amount of precipitation, color change or exudation of an oil (e.g., less than about 10, 5, 1 , 0.5 or 0.1 wt%) is observed in an antiperspirant and/or deodorant anhydrous stick during a predetermined time period, for example, within about 1 , 3, 6, 12, 18 or 24 months.

In an embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) active agent(s) selected from:

(a.i) 10% to 30% of antiperspirant active agent, or (a.ii) 1% to 15% of deodorant active agent;

(b) about 2% to about 30% of fatty compounds;

(c) about 15% to about 35% of surfactants;

(d) about 1 % to about 15% of talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 10% of perlite; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises antiperspirant active agent in a range of about 15% to about 25% and more preferably from about 20% to 25%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, but not limited to, the antiperspirant active agent is selected from aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly (AZG), aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH), and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the deodorant active agent is selected from magnesium oxide, caustic soda, zinc PCA, sodium bircabonate, triclosan, and mixtures thereof. The deodorant active agent is in a range of from about 3% to about 14%, and more preferably from about 5% to 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises fatty compound in a range of about 4% to about 25%, more preferably from about 5% to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, but not limited to, the fatty compound is selected from castor oil, vegetable hydrogenated waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and a mixture thereof.

In preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises surfactant in a range of about 20% to about 30%, more preferably 25% to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In preferred embodiment, but not limited to, the surfactant is selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or benehyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

In an embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises talc in a range of from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 5% to 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises perlite in a range of from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to 6%, and even more preferably from about 1% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick composition of the present invention further comprises emollient selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate.

In an embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition will be used as a daily product to reduce, mask or absorb human unpleasant body odors.

The stick cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.

In an embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention may present a hardness of about 450g with no maximum limit, measured by means of a Stable Micro Systems™ Needle probe, following a penetrometry protocol. The limit of weight loss which is 3%.

In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the stick cosmetic composition for manufacturing a product for reducing, masking or absorbing human unpleasant body odors.

The stick cosmetic composition provides a product with desire texture and stable hardness, good stability under extreme conditions of temperature and humidity, avoiding cracks, weight loss, good dry touch (matte effect), less oiliness sensation and oily stains in clothes and good efficacy against sweat odor and transpiration, especially for hairy armpits consumers

A preferential example of a suitable stick cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) about 10% to about 30% of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum chlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 2% to about 30% of hydrogenated castor oil, vegetable hydrogenated waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and mixtures thereof;

(c) about 15% to about 35% of cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, benehyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(d) about 1 % to about 15% of talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 10% of perlite; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition comprises:

(a) about 3% to about 14% of magnesium oxide, caustic soda, zinc PCA, sodium bicarbonate, triclosan, and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 4% to about 25% of hydrogenated castor oil;

(c) about 20% to about 30% of cetearyl alcohol;

(d) about 2% to about 12% of talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 8% of perlite; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferential example of a suitable stick cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) 15% to 25% of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum chlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof;

(b) 4% to 25% of hydrogenated castor oil, vegetable hydrogenated waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil and mixtures thereof; (c) 20% to 30% of cetearyl alcohol or isopropyl palmitate;

(d) 2% to 12% of talc;

(e) 0.5% to 8% of perlite; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition comprises:

(a) about 5% to about 12% of magnesium oxide, caustic soda, zinc PCA, sodium bicarbonate, triclosan, and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 4% to about 25% of hydrogenated castor oil;

(c) about 20% to about 30% of cetearyl alcohol;

(d) about 2% to about 12% of talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 8% of perlite; all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE AGENTS

The term “antiperspirant ingredient” means any substance capable of reducing the flow of sweat. The antiperspirant ingredients which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from aluminum and zirconium salts, complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of aluminum salts useful in the invention include, for example, aluminum chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulphate buffered by sodium aluminum lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof. Complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and of aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). They are disclosed, for example, in patent US-3792068. The ZAG complexes usually exhibit an Al/Zr quotient ranging from about 1 .67 to 12.5 and a Metal/Cl quotient ranging from about 0.73 to 1.93. Non-limiting examples of these complexes include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachloro-hydrex glycine aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the antiperspirant ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 103, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 301 , aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY (INCI name), in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH AZP-908, and mixtures thereof. Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY can be combined with a maximum of 5% of aluminum chlorohydrate.

The antiperspirant ingredients are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 10% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

DEODORANT ACTIVE AGENTS

The composition of the present invention may further comprise any additional substance capable of reducing, masking or absorbing unpleasant human body odors, in particular underarm odors. Such deodorant active agent could be selected from bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (©Triclosan), 2,4- dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3’,4’,5’-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3’,4’- dichlorophenyl)-3-(4’-chlorophenyl)urea (©Triclocarban) or 3,7,11 -trimethyldodeca- 2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3- diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise); glycerol derivatives, for instance caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC® from Straetmans), polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC® from Straetmans), and biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc PCA, magnesium oxide, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

The deodorant active agents may be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. They may also be a polyol of glycerol or 1 ,3-propanediol type (for example, Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts); or else an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum.

The deodorant active agents may also be agents for neutralizing foul smelling volatile compounds, such as sodium bicarbonate, for example sold by Universal Preserv-A-Chem, magnesium carbonate, for example sold by Buschle & Lepper, calcium carbonate, for example sold by Sensient, zinc oxide, for example sold by Kobo, calcium oxide or calcium hydroxide; amine derivatives such as tromethamine (for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical), triethanolamine, triethylamine and ethanolamine.

The amount of the deodorant active agent may range from about 1% to about 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

FATTY COMPOUNDS

The fatty compounds may be any cosmetically acceptable fatty substance suitable for building the hardness of the stick bar and its matrix.

In addition to the preferably fatty compounds of the stick cosmetic composition, the invention may comprise additional fatty compounds selected from oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made to polar or slightly polar oils, i.e. oils including an alkyl chain, preferably a C3-C40 alkyl chain. Non-limiting examples of oils to be used in the present invention include: linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, ozokerite, isohexadecane, liquid petroleum jelly and light naphthalene oils, and lanolin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; or also caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R + R’ is >10, for instance, cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, and also di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, or acetates.

Non-liming examples of fatty alcohols useful for the present invention are those liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2- undecylpentadecanol.

Non-limiting examples of fatty acids useful for the present invention are higher fatty C12-C22 acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid.

Preferable fatty compounds for the present invention are hydrogenated waxes, such as: hydrogenated jojoba oil, carnauba wax, and hydrogenated vegetable oil (rapeseed and palm).

The amount of the fatty compound(s) may range from about 2% to about 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SURFACTANTS

Non-limiting examples of surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside.

Oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO/PO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may be made to steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 40 and beheneth 100.

Alkyl- esters of glycerol includes glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol) can be cited, preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and tristearate).

Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, polyglycerol esters of fatty acid are selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least a fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters derived from the reaction comprising 4 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid. There may be mentioned for example the ester from polyglyceryl-10 reaction (glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units) and lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl- 10 laurate) such as that marketed by the company Dr Straetmans under the DERMOFEEL reference G 10 L, the ester from the reaction polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as that marketed by Evonik under the reference Tegosoft PC 41 .

Other examples of nonionic surfactants to be used in the surfactant system of the present invention include polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide of the structure below:

H-(0-CH2-CH2)a-(0-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(0-CH2-CH2)a’-0H, in which a, a’ range from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100.

In the chemical structure described above, preferably, a and a’ range from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80, better still a and a’ range from 50 to 130 and b ranges from 30 to 80, and even better still a and a’ range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to one particular embodiment, a and a’ are identical.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19 000, better still ranging from 1200 to 15 000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10 000 and even better still ranging from 1500 to 5000.

As polycondensate products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate products sold under the name Synperonic, for instance Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) by the company BASF.

Preferred surfactants may be selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or benehyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the surfactant may range from about 15% to about 35%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

FILLERS

The term “filler” means any colorless or white solid particles of any form that are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Non-limiting examples powdered fillers useful in the invention include, for example, talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite powders, fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof. Powdered filters do not include powdered pigments.

Preferably, talc is present in an amount of from about 1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and perlite is present in an amount of 0.5% to 10% based on the total weight of the composition.

SOLVENT

The stick cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon -based chain containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with R1 + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the solvent may range from about 5% to about 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

EMOLLIENT

In addition to the essential ingredients of the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise emollient.

Useful emollients are natural ester that are based upon mono-, di- and triglycerides. Representative glycerides include any vegetable oil, not being limitative to sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof.

These may comprise natural or synthetic esters, hydrocarbons, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

Natural ester emollients principally are based upon mono-, di- and triglycerides. Representative glycerides include any vegetable oil, not being limitative to sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof.

Hydrocarbons include apolar oils, such as petrolatum, mineral oil, Cn- Ci3 isoparaffins, polybutenes, and especially isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyl 101 A from Presperse Inc. Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be suitable as cosmetically acceptable carriers. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, hydroxystearic and behenic acids.

Fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms are another useful category of cosmetically acceptable carrier. Illustrative of this category are stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

Also, aliphatic fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanols are common cosmetic emollients that are particularly useful as coupling agents in antiperspirant compositions.

Preferred emollient oils are alkyl esters, such as PurSyn Ester 2E7 (neopentylglycol dihexanoate) manufactured by Exxon-Mobil; benzoate esters such as FinsolvTN (Trade Mark) manufactured by Finetex Inc.; hydrogenated polyalkenes, such as Panalane manufactured by Amoco and PureSyn PAO 2 (hydrogenated polydecene) manufactured by Exxon-Mobil; PPG ethers, such as Fluid AP (PPG-14 butylether) manufactured by Union Carbide; isopropyl palmitate; phenylsilicone; and isopropyl myristate.

Said compounds can be used alone or in a mixture thereof and may be used in amounts ranging from about 5% to 30%, in particular in the range of about 8% to 28%, all percentages being by weight of the total composition.

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.

An example of antioxidant is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.

Additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1% to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the examples.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

Figure 1 illustrates the improvement in wight loss (%) of Examples 1-5.

Figure 2 illustrates the improvement of hardness of options Examples 1 -5.

Figure 3 illustrates melting and recrystallization temperatures in Examples 1 to 5.

Figure 4 illustrates the influence of the total powder in enthalpy energy of melting and hardness.

Figure 5 illustrates influence of the total powder in enthalpy energy of crystallization and hardness.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE STICK COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Another embodiment of the present invention is related to a process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition, as defined in the present application, comprising the steps of:

(i) melting at 75°C ± 2°C all the fatty compounds and emollients (including solvent and surfactant);

(ii) decreasing the temperature up to 68°C ± 2°C and then add antiperspirant or deodorant active (if present), mixing well prior to add fillers and other ingredients, such as fragrance; and

(iii) filling under agitation around 65°C ± 2°C and cooling at 13°C ± 2°C for make it hard as a stick bar. Optionally, fragrance(s) can be added in step (ii).

EXAMPLES 1 TO 6

A suitable composition according to the present invention are Examples 1 to 6 and suitable compositions according to the state of the art are Examples 7 to 9, as follows: TABLE 1 A - Compositions of the present invention

Table 1 B- Examples 7 to 9

Example 10

A Design of Experiment (DOE) Test was conducted with Examples 1 to 5 in order to identify cosmetic composition: addressing texture to haired armpits improving dry touch and stains/and hardness and weight loss, but keeping spreadability, performance and stability.

The physical-chemical parameters evaluated were:

> Hardness at end of manufacturing;

> Hardness after 1 week at 55 ^Q C;

> Weight loss after 1 week at 55 ^Q C; and

> Differential Scanning Calorimetry over a standardized temperature curve.

A comparative instrumental gravimetric study was conducted on both extreme conditions (Examples 1 to 5) to check antiperspirant efficacy impact.

Sensorial panel was conducted with hairy body volunteers to check which texture better fits the application area. Complete stability and compatibility was carried with final formulation in order to check complete behavior.

As conclusion, fillers successfully were added to a stick in order to help building the stick matrix structure to improve sensoriality to haired armpits and stability. Not only a drier touch and less oily stains were delivered, but the stability parameters were improved without compromising efficacy, a key consumer driver.

Example 11

A comparative test was performed with Examples 1 to 5 in order to verify the hardness and weight loss was performed:

TABLE 3 - RESULTS OF HARDNESS AND WEIGHT LOSS

It was observed that the addition of powders directs impact the hardness at TO, as the highest the total amount of powder in the Stick technology, the highest is the hardness.

At stressful conditions (1 S T55), it seems that the powders addition ensure a harder bar and less weight loss, when compared to a filler free bar. However, the hardness seems to stabilize s around 800g, not increasing or decreasing, even in very high concentrations of powders, specially talc.

Examples 2 to 5 presented bar stability while decrease significatively the weight loss. Example 12

A comparative Differential Scanning Calorimetry test was performed with

Examples 1 to 5 in order to verify the melting and crystallization temperatures of the composition:

TABLE 4 - RESULTS OF MELTING AND CRYSTALIZATION TEMPERATURES Melting and recrystalization temperatures don’t seem to be impacted much by the addition of the fillers.

Sample 2 is the only sample with significant higher melting point than regular armpit skin temperature (35,9 - 36,7°C). This allows the stick to be completely hard during application, reducing drastically chances of oily releasement or bar melting when compared to the other samples. Melting means that the bar starts to melt, to decompose. This hypothesis is even more clarified by the difference between melting and crystallization temperatures, as sample 2 has the highest difference. This means more energy is necessary to change phases, i.e., a lot of environment temperature is needed to physical-chemically change the stick characteristics.

As enthalpy energy of both melting and crystallization phases of sample 5 decreases after samples 1 to 4, it seems the stick is more powder than crystalline structure. The high content of powder occupies most of intrinsic space and less space is available to crystal formation during fatty alcohol crystallization.

Example 13

TABLE 5 - RESULTS OF ENTHALPY ENERGY

Talc and perlite seem to impact directly in the energy necessary to crystalize the stick waxes. It might be related to talc characteristic to occupy space by organized groups, resulting in smaller crystals formed by the waxes.

Perlite as thinner a particle, occupy the remaining spaces to improve sensorial issues and prevent weight loss, by decreasing the vague space.

It can be seen by crystallization energy which decreases as the powders are being added. Therefore, fillers seem to help an easier and faster crystallization.

Sample 2 is the only powdery version which melting energies decreases compared to non-powdery (1), while keeping the correct hardness at TO and over stability, and weight loss.

Example 14

TABLE 6 - OTHER RESULTS OF HARDNESS AND WEIGHT LOSS

A comparative instrumental gravimetric study was conducted on both extreme conditions (1 & 5) to check antiperspirant efficacy impact by the fillers’ addition.

The test was conducted with 54 volunteers, 28 days of wash out, for 4 days with once a day application. Measurements were conducted at TO, 48h, 72h and 96 hours.

The results of the ANCOVA analysis indicate that there are no statistically significant differences for sweat reduction between the product test 5 and the test product 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications.

A Free choice profile (sensorial panel) was conducted with 15 men with haired armpits, with applications including in the underarm area.

The benches were internal (current at Market) and external (Market key players). The winning formula was option 2, as it was closer to references in terms of application, dry touch, spreadability and residues.

Sample 2 was completely assessed in terms of Stability and Compatibility and showed improvement when compared to base 1 .

The addition of fillers at ratio of sample 2, improved the weight loss, which is a critical parameter for stick bar. The hardness is also higher, resulting in a stronger stick, even in extreme conditions.

Experimental Conclusions

In terms of physical-chemical parameters, the advantages of the addition of powders in the specific ranges improves weight loss over accelerated stability and improves hardness at TO and over accelerated stability.

In addition, Sample 2 is the only with significant higher melting temperature then the skin, it might help to ensure that the bar does not melt during application, probably reducing the oily and wet sensation.

Talc and perlite seem to impact directly in the energy necessary to crystalize the stick waxes as crystallization energy decreases as they are being added. Mainly because they occupy free space and allow smaller crystals to be formed faster In complete stability and compatibility, it improves both weight loss and hardness in extreme conditions (45°C).

In terms of efficacy, the addition of powders does not impact on antiperspirant performance even in very high powder concentration until 96 hours.

In terms of sensorial profile, the addition of powders seems to improve oily texture, residues and dry touch in haired armpits, and seems to not significantly impact on spreadability and application.

Example 15

Product Performance Evaluation

The objective of this study was to evaluate the antiperspirant Example 5 and Example 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications according to FDA protocol. Based on the clinical results of this study, there were no statistically significant differences for sweat reduction between composition of Example 5 and the composition of Example 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications.

Forty-four (54) female subjects were selected to participate in this study. Fifty-one (51 ) subjects came to the baseline hot room session.

During 28 days prior to the application of the investigational composition, the subjects only used a standard deodorant and no other product on the armpits were used. After this period, a baseline hot room session (80 minutes, 37.8 ± 1 ^Q C, 30-40% relative humidity) was performed in order to select the subjects who sweat more than 100 milligrams of sweat in each armpit for 20 minutes.

After the baseline hot room session, the subjects performed a supervised washing of their armpits with a liquid soap and received a controlled application of 0.4g of the product in a randomized way performed by a trained technician.

On the two following two days, the subjects were instructed to apply at home the product delivered by the study staff. Then, the subjects returned to the research center for the 2 ^nd controlled product application performed by a trained technician. The amount of product was 0.4g determined by a calibrated pipette.

Hot rooms (80 minutes, 37.8 ± 1 ^Q C, 30-40% relative humidity) were performed again to assess antiperspirant efficacy 48, 72 and 96 hours after the fourth application of the product.

Statistical Analysis

Antiperspirant activity was evaluated by determining shifts in ratios of the sweat output by the treated armpit with the Example 5 to the treated armpit with the Example 1 for each volunteer. Estimates of percent reduction and 95% confidence intervals were calculated. The data was analyzed using the Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test.

These analyses were calculated as follows:

Z [%] = [ (PT x C) / (PC x T)] ^* 100 where: Z is the adjusted ratio; PC is the pretreatment measure corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 5); PT is the pretreatment measure corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 1 ); T is the corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 1); C is the corresponding quantity of sweat for the treated armpit with the test product (Ex. 5). For the statistical analysis the Wilcoxon-Rank-Test (one-sided) is used.

The hypotheses tested by the Wilcoxon-Signed-Rank-Test (one-sided) are stated below (FDA and Europe respectively):

HO: the median of calculated Z-value is > 80%;

H1 : the median of calculated Z-value is < 80%; and HO: the median of calculated Z-value is > 100%;

H1 : the median of calculated Z-value is < 100%.

The confidence level considered in the analysis was 95%.

Results

Tables 8, 9, 10, 11 A and 11 B summarize the results of the analysis 48, 72 and 96 hours after four applications. Table 8. Mean sweat quantities 48 hours after the fourth product application and difference to initial value, n = 45

Table 9. Mean sweat quantities 72 hours after the fourth product application and difference to initial value, n = 45

Table 10. Mean sweat quantities 96 hours after the fourth product application and difference to initial value, n = 45

Statistical analyses were conducted to compare the antiperspirant efficacy of both formulas by analysis of covariance (ANCOVA).

The results are reported in terms of percent difference (%) of one treatment relative to the others.

If the result of ANCOVA is significant, the formulas are statistically different, and we can conclude that:

• If % > 0, the sweat rate from armpit treated with the reference (903539 NP) > the sweat rate from the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 5), therefore the test product (Ex. 5) is more effective than the reference (Ex. 1 ).

• If % < 0, the sweat rate from armpit treated with the reference (Ex. 1 ) < the sweat rate from the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 5), therefore the reference (Ex. 1) is more effective than the test product (Ex. 5).

Table 11 A. Summary of statistical analysis, n = 45 Table 11B. Summary of statistical analysis, n = 45

Legend: S = significance p< 0.05; NS = no significance; CI95% = Confidence Interval 95%

The results of the ANCOVA analysis indicate that there are no statistically significant differences for sweat reduction between the product test A (Ex. 5) and the test product B (Ex. 1), 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications.