A STRUCTURED KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF

PRODUCING IT.

Technical field

The present invention rel ates to a structured knitted fabric and the production thereof which is particularly recommended for producing garments for dynami c activities .

Background Art

As it is known, nowadays, the need for clothing items with increasingly specialised and particular types of performance i s leading researchers to devel op increasingly higher performing fabrics aimed at meeting specific requirements.

Indeed, such fabrics, known as engineered fabrics, are materials which meet high technical and quality requirements and are used to produce garments with superior performance levels which meet the needs of the field of application thereof, including sportswear, but also for many other everyday items.

In particular, in the engineered fabric system, all kinds of textile fibres are used, such as, for example, natural, synthetic, artificial, inorganic fibres, with an increasing diffusion of the use of synthetic fibres, because it is possible to provide them with features suitable for the needs of different applications. In fact, technical fibres are designed and manufactured to provide performance levels not reachable with conventional textile fibres; they are mainly characterised by high levels of resi stance to mechanical stress, flames, chemical agents, etc . These features can be achieved by modifying the process or other parameters that, apart from the fibres, contribute to the formation of the desired product. Fabrics made with the use of technical fibres can excel in terms of thermal exchange capacity, mechanical resistance, durability, and more.

Depending on the field of appl ication, the technological features can be accompani ed by comfort and style aspects. At present, engineered fabrics are findi ng increasing use in the clothing field, thus representing a meeting point between two worlds, namely fashion and engineering, which have ever larger areas of overlap. Engineered fabrics for both casual and sports clothi ng must combi ne comfort, resistance, breathability, ease of use, and maintenance with design.

At present, in terms of items of clothing, there is considerable need felt for garments which are increasingly ergonomic. allowing the user to perform a who le series of movements, including therein extreme movements, in total com fort and without any sense of constraint or limitation, allowing - at the same time - perfect breathabil ity and thermoregulation so as not to strain the user's body during such activities.

In addition to the description so far, there is a demand expressed by the market for - for example - engineered fabri cs which are capable, at the same time, of adapting to human ergonomics and offering optimum comfort and protection for the parts of the body with whi ch the fabric comes into contact. In particul ar, the item of clothing or the accessory is required to feature the fewest number of seams possible since, with time and prolonged use, seams can irritate the body part concerned and the pressure exerted thereby can create irritations that l imit the wearability of the item. Furthermore, people are seeking garments that offer a feeling of l ightness and adaptability when worn, without any restrictions on and limitations to movem ents for the user.

As it is known, nowadays, there is a lot of interest among users in clothes and accessories which are comfortable, practical, functional, aesthetically pleasing, and flexible in terms of the use thereof, but most of all in those with high technological performance levels.

At present, many items of sportswear and other garments have inserts which are applied to the fabric which is the main structure of the garment to allow certain parts of the body good breathability, or to be more ergonomic during movement. Indeed, many garments feature portions made of a ribbed fabric, which is elastic and extensible. In all garments currently on the market, there are different layers of materials and fabri cs that are positi oned between the body and the outer layer so that the user often has a sense of padding and l imitation in the movements thereof, which make it tiring to wear the garment for a long time.

Furthermore, in order to make the garments described above, various processes must be carried out to assemble the various parts and insert the various inserts and layers, before the finished garment is obtained. As a result of thi s condition, technical garments are particularly expensive due to the high number of steps which must be carried out for the production thereof. Moreover, the presence of different layers, each of which has its own task, means that the garment is not always comfortable in terms of wearability, since the garment is somewhat stiff and the wearer feels somewhat 'trussed' . Disclosure of Invention

The aim of the present invention is essenti ally to solve the problems of the commonly known techni que, overcoming the drawbacks described above by means of a structured knitted fabri c which is produced with a layering of components, as one pi ece, wi thout interruptions, with a raised structure on both the external and internal sides and with the modularity and elasticity of an actual seamless garment.

A second aim of the present invention is to provide a structured knitted fabric which adapts perfectly to the morphology of the part of the body with which it comes into contact, featuring differentiated thicknesses in the knit sequences achieved through differentiated interwoven sections in the machining.

A third aim of the present invention is to produce a structured knitted fabric using circul ar machines which offers the user optimal ergonomics, well sealed parts, excellent breathabitity, a decidedly contained weight, and considerable comfort when used.

A further aim of the present invention is to produce a structured knitted fabric whose construction features alternating areas with varying degrees of padding, which are lightweight or honeycombed so as to be breathable, and are elastic and flexible so as to be comfortable and ergonomic during movement.

A further aim of the present invention is to produce a structured knitted fabric which appears to be a single layer of material and a method of producing it. A further but not final aim of the present invention is to provide a structured knitted fabric which is easy to produce and works wel l and a method of producing it.

These aims and others besides, which will better emerge over the course of the present description, are essential ly achieved by means of a structured knitted fabric and method of producing it, as outlined in the claims below.

B rief Description of D ra in gs

Further characteristics and advantages will better emerge in the detailed description of a structure knitted fabri c and method of producing it according to the present invention, provided in the form of a non- lim iting exampl e, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 shows, schematically, a section of a first embodiment of a structured knitted fabric according to the present invention;

Fi gure 2 shows, schematically, a section of a second embodiment of the fabric in question;

Figure 3 shows, schematically, a section of a third embodiment of the structured knitted fabric in question;

Figure 4 shows a top-do wn view of the knitted fabric in Figure 1 ;

Figure 5 shows a top-down view of the knitted fabric in Figure 2 ;

Figure 6 shows a top-down vi ew of the structured knitted fabric in Fi gure 3 .

With reference to the fi gures, 1 denotes, as a whole, an embodiment of a structured knitted fabric according to the present invention.

Best Mode for Carrying Out the Invention The structured knitted fabric in questi on is essentially made according to the fo llowing m ethod.

With a circular machine, a tubular element is formed on top of which the specifi c portions are " designed " , for exampl e, to be breathab le with a more open, honeycombed processing or with passages whose conformati on allows the transit of air and/or ergonomic by m eans of ribbed portions that are particu larly flexible and elasticised not so much as a result of the yarn, but as a result of the type of knitting.

Furthermore, through the type of knitting, it is possible to l end the fabric three-dimensionality, with raised elements on both the external and internal surfaces, so as to provide pre-establi shed performance types for the future garment.

Once the tubular element has been obtained, it is turned inside out so that the external surface of the future fabri c is on the inside .

During the subsequent stage, the upper part of the tubular element is sealed by means of a temporary seam, after inserting a polycarbonate sheet which covers the whole internal surface of the tubular element. The said sheet, whi ch may have different dimensions, allows the entire surface of the tubular el ement to be tensioned while also stabilised, in order to render the surface perfectly homogeneous. This way. one obtains 'pieces' of knitted fabric corresponding to different sizes of the garments which will be produced .

At this point, a membrane is appli ed to the i nternal surface of the tubular element, which will subsequentl y become the internal surface of the garment and is currently located on the outside, and the said membrane may be composed of a single layer or multiple layers consisting of a membrane with a fine knitted layer, as shown in Figure 3.

In greater detail, the m embrane is constituted of a polyurethane film with hydrophil ic characteristics and has a h igh capacity for heat resistance which facilitates the application thereof to the tubular element, in addition to increasing the strength and durability of the structured knitted fabric obtained.

In particular, the said mem brane has an optimal capacity for two- dimensional extension and this characteristic is transmitted to the final fabric obtained.

In addition to the description so far, the said fine knitted layer is an extremely thin, elastic, and ducti le fabric o btained with both natural and synthetic yarns and is designed to enable the thermoregulation of the garment si nce, depending on the thickness and weight thereof, the said layer lends the garment either a greater or lesser degree of protection from the col d. Indeed, for a winter garment, a fine knit can be used which is thicker and has a closer knit. Furthermore, to increase the characteri stics consisting of protection from the cold, a nap may be made for the fine knitted layer, the said operati on being part of the process of finishing the fabrics and consists in lifting the fi bres of the yarns in the fabric, to render it softer and lighter, lending a napped, velvety appearance to the surface so as to increase the amount of air retained and, consequentl y, increase the thermal insul ation property of the said fabric .

After positioning the membrane and/or the fine knitted layer, the tubular element i s sealed (again, provisionally) in the l ower portion too and a hot pressing operati on is carried out by means of a special press whi ch, by providing adequate heat, reciprocally couples the materials, keeping the three-dimensionality of the surfaces unchanged.

The operation o f po sitioning the membrane plus the fine knitted l ayer is repeated in the other half of the tubular element, which has been rotated. Once the stage during whi ch th e membrane i s applied to the whole surface of the tubul ar element is finished, the lower portion is opened and the pol ycarbonate sheet is removed, which, as mentioned earl ier, was keeping the knit of the tubular element slightly tensioned and also had the further task of preventing the two halves from mutually j oining, so as to tension the knitted fabric and give the l atter a pre-establ ished size and measurements.

The fol lowing stage envi sages the removal of the provi sional upper stitching and the opening of the tubular element, which becomes a rectangu lar portion.

A waterproofing treatment is performed on the external surface or on the si de opposite where the membrane has been applied in order to render the external surface waterproof.

There fol lows a drying stage which entails a passage through a suitable device whi ch warms and thereby dries.

At this point, the piece of structured knitted fabric obtained is ready to be used to create all the structures necessary for the production of garments for dynamic activities .

The structured knitted fabri c obtained with the method disclosed above, consists of a single piece which i s the resul t of the assembly of several components. In parti cular, depending on the fibres and the materials used for the production of the knitted fabric, ci early defined characteristi cs can be given to the end fabric, with the thicknesses or the honeycomb designed according to the effect one wishes to achieve in order to calibrate and manage body microcl imate and therm oregulati on. Furthermore, one can predetermi ne the level of elasticity and flexibility of the fabric so that the sai d fabric is comfortable and dynamic during movement.

With the method disclosed above, one can obtain porti ons of bellow- shaped fabric which allow optimal elbow and/or knee movement without any overlapping fabric, whi ch - over time - would cause discomfort and irritation due to the folds rubbing against the body.

Furthermore, portions can be obtained with ribbing with different inter- row thi cknesses, whi ch al low an ai r tightness that performs an i nsulation function or lends the fabric breathability in order to wick away sweat or control the internal temperature of the garment, so as to provide the user with an optimum microclimate.

In addition to the description so far, since the fabric is knitted, once can produce, for exampl e, smooth portions to be sewn in a normal manner, for example, to apply a zip. which is impossi ble with currently avai lable products. Furthermore, one can create designs and textures which render the fabri c special aesthetically and lend it value.

in parti cular, with the knitti ng according to the present method, on the reverse side of the fabric, there are no floating yarns, loose ends, or anything else which would render the fabric aesthetically untidy, which is why it is often the case, in currently available garments, that there is always a lining present to hide such imperfections. A structured knitted fabric in question combines the typi cal features of a seamless garment - i . e. the level of comfort during movements, since there are no seams holding taut and stiffening the fabric and therefore the said fabric is soft and extensi ble) - with the performance of the membrane, i. e. breathabil ity, external humi dity being kept external, and internal humidity being wicked away.

According to the present invention, the structured knitted fabric in question i s essenti al ly constituted of a knitted layer 2, produced using circular machin es, at least one m embrane 3 which is thermo-coupled to the internal surface of the knitted l ayer and a fine knitted layer j oined to the membrane or the knitted layer and a waterproofing treatment on the external surface.

In additi on to the description so far, the structured knitted fabri c is the result of different combinations of the three components : knitted layer 2, membrane 3 , and fine knitted layer 4.

In greater detail, a first fabric composed of a knitted layer 2 and a membrane 3 with the waterproo fing on the external surface, shown in Fi gure 1 , depending on the weight of the knitted layer, is suitable for all sports from skiing to cyc ling. A second fabric composed of a knitted layer 2 and a fine knitted layer 4 and with the waterproofing on the external surface, shown in Figure 2, i s suitable for lightweight and breathable garments in which the kni t layer is j oined with the fine knitted layer by means of polyurethane stitches distributed over the surface which j oin the two layers. A third fabric composed of a knitted layer 2, a membrane 3. and a fin e kitted layer 4. with the waterproofing on the external s urface, shown in Figure 3. is suitabl e for garments used in cold weather, in parti cular for winter sports, such as ski ing, for example. As mentioned earli er, the knitted layer 2 features different thicknesses due to the use of yarns which differ i n terms of both type and thickness, as well as the type of machi ning carried out with a given sector.

Indeed, the knitted layer 2 may be made of various types of yarns, which may be natural or syntheti c or an association of the two types or originating from the intertwining of yarns of different types and thicknesses .

In accordance with the present invention, the structured knitted fabric may have different thicknesses which al low for a more speci fic and sectoral design of the piece, thereby also al lowing the product to be gi ven specific technical features at poi nts of need.

Indeed, for example, the thickness of the knit allows the fabric to have controlled flexibil i ty and the thicker the knit is. the more insulated and cushioned the fabric is, thereby guaranteeing greater support and, consequently, a higher level of comfort. Furthermore, the zones with more padding provide greater protection and there is less possibil ity of dispersion of interna! heat.

In addition to the descripti on so far, the thinner the knit is, the more the fabric offers optimum cl imate control for the part of the body with which i t comes into contact and effective breathabi l ity, as the way in which the section of fabric i s produced means it is endowed with open passages that allow better and greater ai r circulation and therefore better climate control with the temperature kept even and constant. With the structured knitted fabric in question there can be differentiated comfort zones.

In additi on to the description so far. when- for exampl e - the knitted layer features machining which creates a full knit, it prevents the inlet of humi dity and water, whi le the presence of honeycombing and openings for the passage of air does not allow the inl et of dust, etc. which means nothing can enter the garment whi ch might cause discomfort to the user's body; indeed, only air can enter.

The knitted layer i s contoured since produced with knits whi ch allow (anatomical) pre-shaping by m eans of different selections, yarns, gauges, etc.

Different types of machining ensure the knitted layer obtained has structural features that are transformed into functi onal features for the garment.

In particular, the structured knitted fabric may be used to make garments such as j ackets and trousers, waistcoats, j umpers, and gloves, for both sports and not. and may be used in the production of techni cal garments for both sports and casual wear or even solely parts thereof, where particular characteri sti cs and types of performance are required.

All the inserts and the different types of structure of the knitted layer are obtained during machining, whi ch means there are no seams that can cause discomfort, irritations, or stress to the zone of the body which comes into contact therewith.

Last but not least, the structured knitted fabric in question is the end result of precise working stages, whi ch means the resulting fabri c is the epitome of high-performance technique, which can be applied to fashion, sports, etc.

After the predominantly structural description, the invention in question wil l now be outlined.

When one wishes to produce an item of clothing or a part thereof, one simply has to produce the knitted layer and complete it with the membrane and/or fine knitted l ayer and the waterproofing treatment according to the present invention and use the fabric obtained to produce the desired item of clothing by assembling the fabric with the other components, in the same way as a normal piece of fabric. The difference wi l l lie in the performance and the characteri stics that the fabri c can offer, such as optimum comfort, which i s diversifi ed depending on the points in the body, and climate control, which can be different from one zone to another zone .

Thus the present invention achieves the aims set.

With the structured knitted fabric in question, it is possible to make inserts, for example, in j ackets and trousers, or an entire garment.

Advantageous ly, the fabric o btained with the method in question is constituted of a layering of components resulting in a single l ayer which makes the fabric a single piece, without interruptions, with a raised structure on both the external and i nternal sides and with the modularity and elasticity of an actual seamless garment, improvi ng breathabil ity and ergonomics during movement when wearing the garment and is not simply a sum of layers and elements, as happens with garments according to pri or art. In particul ar, the structured knitted fabric in question i s configured so as to adapt perfectly to the morphology of the part of the body with wh ich i t comes into contact, features differentiated thicknesses in the sequences of the different rows of knitting and features differentiated interwoven secti ons in the machining, which allow diversified portions of fabric to be obtained in order to ac hieve optimum breathability with di fferentiated zones for aeration and air circulation as needed .

A further advantage of the knitted fabric in question is that it is produced using a circular machines, without the need for subsequent machining (except the subsequent assembly thereof with the membrane and the waterproofing of the external surface) to give the user a garment which has optimum wearability. air tightness, excellent breathability, decidedl y contained weight, support, and remarkable comfort when worn. Furthermore, the construction of the fabri c according to the present invention involves alternating areas with varying degrees of thi ckness, which are l ightweight and honeycombed so as to be breathable and provide heat regulation.

A further advantage of the fabric in question is that once production thereof is fini shed, the fabri c is as if it consisted of a single layer/element.

in particul ar, because of its structure, the fabri c according to the present invention adapts perfectly to the morphology of the part of the body, without any uncomfortable areas of thickness or folds.

Advantageously, an item of clothing made with the fabric according to the present inventi on can have an unusual, refined, and aestheti cally attractive appearance, whil e also offering a high level of technical performance.

One advantage achi eved with the use of the present fabric is that the elements of di sturbance and discomfort are reduced/elim inated, making the user more comfortable duri ng the mo vement thereof.

A further advantage is due to the fact that the structured knitted fabric in question is easy to manufacture and works well.

Naturally, further modi fi cati ons or vari ants may be applied to the present invention while remaining within the scope of the invention that characterises it.