Title of Invention SUBSTRATE BASED COSMETIC PRODUCT

Technical Field

The invention relates to a substrate based product, and notably to a substrate based cosmetic products.

In particular the invention relates to wet products impregnated with a liquid formulation which comprises solid particles dispersed in it, where dispersed particles are transferred to a keratinic material from the wet product upon wiping.

The present invention relates also to a method and process for preparing said wet product and a method and process for caring and/or improving a keratin material by application of said wet product to the surface of said keratin material.

The present invention relates more particularly to topical applications, and especially to cosmetic applications. Background Art

The international patent application WO2002100231 A1 describes a wipe having a substrate and having a film forming polymer and oil absorbing particles coating one side of the substrate. Similarly, international patent application WO2009074895A1 describes a laminated oil absorbing wipe comprising a non-pigmented thermoplastic nonwoven substrate layer and a pigmented thermoplastic nonwoven substrate layer. These international patent applications relate to changing transparency of the coated surface by absorption of oil from skin.

US patent application n°2007/0212398 describes a dry wipe prepared by coating a hydrophobic powder on a wet substrate and then by drying it. US patent application n°2007/0212398 also describes a method of removing sand from a skin surface using the wipe.

The final products of these prior patent applications refer to a dry product to absorb oil from the skin but does not give additional skin benefit, such as for example a cosmetic sensorial feel.

US patent n°7,592,019 describes wipes impregnated with a cosmetic formulation including organic/inorganic particles with a viscosity of less than 2,000 mPa-s and a water content of less than 0.5% by weight. With such low viscosity, it is difficult to keep particles homogeneously dispersed in the formulation which will impregnate the wipes.

Addition of dispersible solid particles (powders) into a formulation suitable for a substrate based cosmetic product is still a challenge.

In general, cosmetic products comprising dispersed solid particles are applied on skin only after cleaning the skin. Accordingly, this is a two-step method.

Summary of Invention Goals of the invention

Based on above cited prior art, there is a need to develop substrates such as for example wipes, masks or pads, impregnated with a liquid composition not only cleaning a a keratinic material and/or removing make-up from a keratinic material but also providing an additional effect on such a keratinic material, typically human skin.

The present invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a product having a dual functionality, for example including cleansing of a keratinic material and/or removing make-up from a keratinic material and providing an additional effect on such keratinic material.

In particular the invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing an additional effect on a keratinic material by deposition of solid particles.

The present invention also aims to solve the technical problem of adding a sufficient quantity of solid particles to a substrate to provide a benefit to said keratinic material, especially for cosmetic applications.

The present invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a cosmetic formulation comprising solid particles, said formulation being suitable for a good impregnation of a substrate, notably for substrate based cosmetic products, and preferably having a viscosity of less than 2,000 mPa-s. A good impregnation means that the formulation is suitable for impregnating the substrate with the desired amount of solid particles contained in the formulation.

The present invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a single step method for cleansing a keratinic material and/or removing make-up from a keratinic material and providing an additional effect on such keratinic material.

It has been discovered by the present inventors that a wet product according to the present invention solves at least one, and preferably all, the above-recited technical problems. The present invention relates to a wet product, preferably a cosmetic product, comprising: a water insoluble substrate and at least one oil-in-water emulsion comprising more than 0.1 %, preferably more than 0.5%, and more preferably more than 1%, by weight of one or more solid particles relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

Dry product here means that the substrate does not contain any liquid apart from naturally moisture retained in the substrate.

Preferably, the product is wet. Wet product here means that the substrate contains liquid in addition to naturally moisture retained it. Such additional liquid is typically provided by applying liquid on the substrate.

In one embodiment, the wet product as described above, wherein said insoluble substrate comprises a fibrous substrate, preferably a fibrous layer, preferably a non- woven fiber substrate.

In one embodiment, said water insoluble substrate forms a sheet or pile of sheets. "Water insoluble" is defined herein as a substrate that does not dissolve in or readily break apart upon immersion in water.

Advantageously, the solid support comprises at least a fibrous layer. It comprises for example woven fibers, knitted fibers, non-woven fibers, paper, a polymeric film and/or a polymeric mesh.

Advantageously, the substrate sheet comprises at least one fibrous layer of non- woven fibers. In a preferred embodiment, the substrate is made of a non-woven material.

By "non-woven", it is meant, in the sense of this invention, a solid substrate or support including fibers in which the individual fibers or filaments are arranged in a disordered manner in a sheet-like structure and which are neither woven nor knitted. The fibers of the nonwoven body are generally linked to one another, under the effect of a mechanical action (for example, by needle-punching, air jet, water jet, etc.), or under the effect of a. thermal action, or by adding a binder. Such a non-woven material is, for example, defined by standard ISO 9092, as a web or a sheet of fibers oriented directionally or at random, bound by friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, excluding paper or products obtained by weaving, knitting, tufting or stitching incorporating threads or bonding filaments. A non-woven material differs from a paper by the length of the fibers used. In paper, the fibers are shorter. However, there are nonwoven materials based on cellulose fibers that are produced by wet process and have short fibers as in paper. The difference between a nonwoven material and a paper is generally the absence of a hydrogen bond between the fibers in a nonwoven material. The fibers can be natural fibers, synthetic fibers or mixtures thereof. Non limiting examples of synthetic fibers are Polyester, Polyolefin (Polypropylene, Polyethylene), Polyamide (Nylon 6, Nylon 66), Viscose, Acrylic fibers, Modacrylic fibers, Poly vinylidene chloride and Spandex. Example of natural fiber includes cellulosic fibers (such as wood pulp, cotton, hemp, jute, and flax fibers), silk, and keratin (such as wool and camel hair fibers). The solid support typically has a density of 30 g/m2 to 400 g/m2, preferably 40 g/m2 to 80 g/m2.

It has been discovered that a skin whitening or skin lightening effect is provided by use of product according to the invention comprising a cellulosic based substrate.

It has been discovered that skin hydration was better by use of product according to the invention comprising a synthetic fibers.

In one embodiment, said substrate is a hydrophilic substrate, preferably a cellulosic substrate.

In one embodiment, said oil-in-water emulsion comprises one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of cosmetic whitening agents, UV protection agents, skin hydration agents and any mixture thereof.

Such substrates are for example, P=100% Polyester Nonwoven, PV= 65-35%

Polyester-Viscose Blend, V= 100%Viscose, VA= 100% Viscose nonwoven with aperture texture.

Advantageously, it has been discovered in addition that a product according to the invention comprising a cellulosic substrate (such as for example Viscose) enhances the delivery of solid particles to the skin resulting in improved whitening or lightening of the skin.

Advantageously, it has been discovered in addition that a product according to the invention comprising a hydrophobic substrate gives enhanced skin hydration.

In a preferred embodiment, said solid substrate is in the shape of the desired application area. For example, if the solid substrate has to be applied on at least one area of the skin of a user. It can be for example applied on a member of the user such as an arm or a leg, or preferably, the skin on the face of the user.

In one embodiment, solid substrate is a face mask capable of defining at least one central through opening, intended to receive a nose of the user, and at least two upper through openings for placing in front of the eyes of the user.

In a particular embodiment, the solid substrate is a face mask. In one embodiment, the solid substrate has a rounded shape, for example a circular or oval shape. In one embodiment, the solid substrate has a polygonal shape.

Advantageously, said solid substrate comprises at least two through openings intended to be placed facing the eyes of a user, and another through opening intended to be placed facing the mouth of a user. In a particular embodiment, the face mask may also comprise a slit delimiting a flapper intended to be pushed away by the nose of the user, to delimit a nose insertion through opening. In a variant, the slit delimits a through opening without flapper.

In a particular embodiment, the solid substrate is deformable to the touch, to adapt to the conformation of the body surface.

The size and shape of the substrate depends on the application area. For example, a solid substrate adapted to fit the face of a user may have a surface area ranging from 0.25 cm ² to 500 cm ² , preferably from 200 cm ² to 450 cm ² . The solid substrate typically has a density of 30 g/m ² to 400 g/m ² , preferably 30 g/m ² to 200 g/m ² and even more preferably 40 g/m ² to 80 g/m ² .

According to the prior art, formulations presenting a good impregnation of the substrate should have a low viscosity, typically lower than 2000 mPa.s. However with such low viscosity of the formulation, it is difficult to keep solid particles homogeneously dispersed in the formulation which should be impregnated on the substrate.

It has been surprisingly discovered that products according to the present invention can overcome this technical problem.

The present invention comprises the use of an oil-in-water emulsion having a viscosity sufficient to homogeneously disperse solid particles, said emulsion being diluted prior to impregnation of the substrate to get a good impregnation of the substrate.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising solid particles, and in particular dispersable powders for cosmetic products.

In one embodiment, said oil-in-water emulsion is a cream.

In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion prior to dilution with an aqueous solution has viscosity of more than 2,000 mPa.s.

In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion prior to dilution with an aqueous solution has viscosity ranging from 50 to 75 UD (Deviation Units). The viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a M3 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200rpm. For information, 12-22 (M3) UD corresponds to 46-60 (M2) UD which is calculated around 280-15 420 CPS.

In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion after dilution with an aqueous solution has viscosity of less than 2,000 mPa.s. Accordingly, said oil-in-water emulsion in the wet product has a viscosity of less than 2,000 mPa.s.

In one embodiment, prior to dilution of the oil-in-water emulsion with an aqueous solution, said oil-in-water emulsion comprises 40 to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said emulsion.

In one embodiment; prior to dilution of the oil-in-water emulsion with an aqueous solution, said oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least 0.4, preferably from 2 to 15%, more preferably 2 to 13%, and even more preferably 5 to 12%, by weight of solid particles relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

Advantageously, said oil-in-water emulsion, and preferably the cream formulation, is diluted before, preferably just before, impregnating the substrate.

The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more skin care agents. In one embodiment, a skin care agent is selected from the group consisting of: humectants, moisturizers, whitening agents, anti-oxidants, cleansing agents, free radical scavengers, skin tone altering agents, anti-acne agents, anti-pimple agents, anti-aging agents, anti- wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatory agents, soothing agents, skin texture treatment agents, anti-perspirant agents, anti-bacterial agents, nourishing agents, sebum and/or moisture absorbers, and any combination thereof.

In one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention further comprises at least one physiologically acceptable excipient. In one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable excipient is selected from the group consisting of: oils, surfactants, structuring agents, sunscreen filters, preservatives, acidifying and/or alkalizing agents, buffering agents, chelating agents, coloring additives, and any combination thereof.

There is no particular limitation of the nature of solid particles to be used in the present invention.

The solid particles according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the solid particles in the composition. Examples of mineral solid particles that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules.

Solid particles used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms. In one embodiment, said solid particles are selected from the group consisting of mineral or organic, colored or uncolored, pigments, nacreous agents and opacifiers, glitter flakes, active particles, mineral fillers, dyes and any mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, said solid particles are selected from the group consisting of talc; a metal oxide, for example titanium dioxide, iron oxide; silica and any mixture thereof.

Advantageously, said solid particles provide an immediate optical effect because of the deposition on the skin surface.

In one embodiment, said solid particles are selected from the group consisting of oil absorbing powders, such as for example talc, perlite and any mixture thereof. Advantageously, the wet product comprising oil absorbing powders targets oil control from skin and also gives a mattifying effect by deposition of said particles on skin. The deposition of such particles can also work as an anti-adhesive layer for impurities such as dust, pollutants, etc, generally referred to in the present invention as pollutant or pollutants.

Preferably, the wet composition comprises an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a quantity of solid particles sufficient to give a dual functionality of the wet product, i.e. for cleansing of human skin and/or removal of make-up from human skin together with providing an additional effect on skin.

In one embodiment, the formulation comprises less than 12.8% by weight of solid particles prior to dilution relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

Preferably, the formulation comprises from 9 to 13% by weight of solid particles prior to dilution relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

In one embodiment, said oil-in-water emulsion comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, by weight of one or more solid particles relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

In one embodiment, after dilution of the oil-in-water emulsion with an aqueous solution, the diluted oil-in-water emulsion comprises from 0.1 to 4%, preferably from 0.1 to 3.2%, by weight of one or more solid particles relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion. In one embodiment, said oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least 40 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

In one embodiment, after dilution of the oil-in-water emulsion with an aqueous solution, the diluted oil-in-water emulsion comprises from 40 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion. Typically, the aqueous phase comprises water and any cosmetically acceptable ingredients for formulating the oil-in-water emulsion. Typically, the emulsion is prepared according to an O/W emulsion hot process, which is known by the skilled person.

The emulsion is typically prepared according to manufacturing processes and methods known by the skilled person.

The present invention relates to a wet product comprising a cosmetic formulation and a substrate.

In particular, the wet product is a cosmetic solid product for cleansing human skin and/or removing make-up from human skin.

Typically, the substrate based products are wipes, facial mask pads, and other.

The invention also relates to a packaging comprising one or more wet products according to the present invention.

Advantageously, the wet product according to the present invention enables to deposit a cosmetic formulation, and in particular an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising dispersed solid particles, for example by wiping the surface of a keratinic material.

Advantageously, the wet product according to the present invention enables to provide an additional effect on a keratinic material. Accordingly, the wet product according to the invention enhances the functionality of prior art substrates knwon for cleansing skin and/or removing make-up from skin. Advantageously, the wet product according to the present invention provides a new sensorial experience to the user.

Typically, the wiping action results in the cleansing of the skin surface and/or the removal of make-up from skin surface while during this wiping action, the emulsion is deposited on skin surface or transferred to skin surface, thereby providing a good sensory feel on skin.

In one particular embodiment, the wet product according to the present invention avoids deposition of one or more pollutants on skin and/or provides a good repelling of pollutants to avoid their deposition on skin, i.e. is pollutant repellent.

Advantageously, the wet product according to the present invention provides an optical effect on the skin surface, typically after wiping the skin surface.

The invention also relates to a method for cleansing a keratinic material and/or removing make-up from a keratinic material, said method comprising putting a wet product as defined in the present invention into contact with said keratinic material for cleansing said keratinic material and/or removing make-up from said keratinic material, said method comprising providing an additional effect on said keratinic material, said additional effect being preferably selected from the group consisting of whitening said keratinic material, UV protection of said keratinic material, hydration of said keratinic material, providing a mattifying effect to said keratinic material, depositing on said keratinic material of an anti- adhesive layer avoiding dust and/or pollutants, and any combination thereof.

The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment for whitening or lightening a keratinic material, wherein said treatment comprises putting a wet product as defined in the present invention into contact with human skin, for example by wiping said keratinic material, for a time sufficient to provide whitening or lightening of said keratinic material.

The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment for protecting a keratinic material from a pollutant, wherein said treatment comprises putting a wet product as defined in the present invention into contact with human skin, for example by wiping said keratinic material, for a time sufficient to protect said keratinic material from a pollutant.

The "keratinic material" means in particular skin, and more specifically skin of a human being.

In one preferred embodiment, the wet product is applied on a skin surface area, for example on the face. In one embodiment, after application of the mixture on the skin, said wet product is wiped on said skin surface area for a certain period of time to deliver sufficient amount of said emulsion and solid particles to skin thereby providing the desired technical effects.

The present invention relates to a process for preparing a wet product according to the invention.

More particularly, the invention relates to a method for preparing a wet product as defined in the present invention, said method comprising preparing an oil-in-water emulsion comprising one or more solid particles, diluting said oil-in-water emulsion under continuous, stirring with an aqueous solution to obtain a diluted emulsion, and impregnating a water insoluble substrate by said diluted emulsion to form a wet product as defined in the present invention.

The concentration of ingredients in the diluted emulsion will depend on the dilution ratio. In a preferred embodiment, the dilution ratio is advantageously selected in a way that the diluted emulsion comprises 0.5 to 4%, more preferably 0.5 to 3%, and even more preferably 1 to 3%, by weight of one or more solid particles relative to the total weight of said emulsion.

In one embodiment, prior to dilution, the oil-in-water emulsion comprises from 0.4 to 15%, preferably from 2 to 5%, by weight of one or more solid particles relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

Advantageously, the invention relates to a method for preparing a wet product as defined in the present invention, said method comprising:

- preparing at least one oil-in-water emulsion comprising more than 0.4 %, preferably more than 0.5 %, and more preferably more than 1%, and even more preferably more than 2%, by weight of one or more solid particles relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion;

- diluting said oil-in-water emulsion with an aqueous solution to obtain a diluted emulsion, and

- impregnating a water insoluble substrate by said diluted emulsion to form a wet product as defined in the present invention.

In one embodiment, the diluted emulsion comprises from 0.1 to 4%, preferably from 0.1 to 3.2%, by weight of one or more solid particles relative to the total weight of the oil- in-water emulsion.

Advantageously, in one embodiment, said impregnation of the substrate is done under continuous stirring of the diluted emulsion in order to avoid sedimentation of the dispersed particles in the emulsion.

For example, said impregnation of the substrate can be done by dipping the substrate in the emulsion or by spraying said emulsion on one or more substrate surfaces, either on a part of the surface or on the totality thereof.

In one embodiment, the wet product according to the invention comprises a weight ratio of said emulsion relative to the substrate ranging from 2 to 6, more preferably from 2.5 to 4, and even more preferably from 3 to 4 (w/w).

Advantageously, the emulsion prior to dilution forms a substantially homogeneous composition.

Advantageously, the diluted emulsion forms a substantially homogeneous composition upon stirring and preferably during a period of time sufficient to prepare a substrate impregnated with said diluted emulsion.

By "homogeneous composition", it is meant that at least the solid particles are homogeneously dispersed.

According to the present invention, the terms "a", "an", "the" mean "one or more" unless expressly specified otherwise. On the figures:

Figure 1 is a bar graphic showing skin hydration increase expressed in % relative to skin hydration prior to application of different wet products according to the invention.

Figure 2 is a bar graphic showing skin lightness increase expressed in % relative to skin hydration prior to application of different wet products according to the invention.

Figure 3 is a bar graphic showing repletion to pollutant (anti-adhesive properties).

Examples

Example 1 : An oil-in-water emulsion is prepared according to procedures known in the art.

The oil-in-water emulsion (o/w emulsion) comprises 2.9 % by weight of titanium dioxide and 4 % by weight of talc. The said o/w emulsion has been diluted by adding water in 1 :3 ratio (o/w emulsion/added water; weight/weight) and under continuous stirring. The original o/w emulsion and the resulting diluted emulsion are as follows (Table 1):

Table 1

Expressed in %by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The diluted composition given in Table 1 was applied on various nonwoven substrates varying in their composition. The impregnation level was 1 :3 (w/w of substrate weight/liquid formula weight). Skin lightening effect on skin after wiping skin with the wet product was better if a cellulosic substrate based product was used. Skin hydration was better after wiping skin with the wet product if a synthetic substrate based product was used.

Four different kind of nonwoven substrates were impregnated with the same quantity of diluted o/w emulsion (diluted emulsion/substrate (weight/weight) ratio of 3), these impregnated substrates forming wet products according to the invention were used as wipes for wiping skin of volunteers. The cosmetic effects in terms of skin whitening and skin hydration level were measured.

The results are shown in figuresl and 2, where the substrate is as follows:

P is 100%Polyester NW,

PV is 65-35% Polyester-Viscose Blend,

V is 100%Viscose,

VA is 100% Viscose aperture

It was found that use of a cellulosic substrate (Viscose) enhances the delivery to skin of dispersed solid particles resulting in an improved skin whitening/lightening and use of hydrophobic substrate resulting in an improved skin hydration.

Furthermore anti-adhesion properties of wet products according to the invention were tested in-vitro using Bioskin plate from Beaulax (skin model). A predetermined quantity of artificial pollutant (Carbon Black from Sigma Aldrich) was applied on the skin model, and the skin model was wiped either with a cleansing wipe without powders or with a wet product according to the invention ("invention").

Figure 3 shows the results obtained with the cleansing wipe without powders (column in the middle), with a wet product according to the invention (right column), and for untreated skin (left column). The results are expressed in values relative to untreated skin, i.e. skin prior to cleansing (value of about 1).

These results show that wet products according to the invention are good repellents of pollutants and do not allow pollutants to deposit on skin.