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Title:
TEXTILE WITH COLORWASHED ASPECT
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/1998/045527
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A method for making textiles, such as wide width sheeting, having an undulating, irregular, shaded and watery appearance (or 'washed out' look) is disclosed. The method includes treating the textiles at one or more points during the manufacturing process to alter the condition of the fiber, yarn and/or cloth to cause a dye (used in a coloration step) to be less evenly dispersed and absorbed than it would have been without the treatment.

Inventors:
COLLIER SUSAN JANE (GB)
BURKE PETER (GB)
Application Number:
PCT/IB1997/000596
Publication Date:
October 15, 1998
Filing Date:
May 08, 1997
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
CAMPBELL SARAH ANN (GB)
COLLIER SUSAN JANE (GB)
BURKE PETER (GB)
International Classes:
D06P1/00; D06P5/02; D06P5/12; D06P7/00; (IPC1-7): D06P1/00; D06P5/04; D06P5/12
Foreign References:
GB1505497A1978-03-30
FR1557900A1969-02-21
US2999731A1961-09-12
US5199957A1993-04-06
FR2121844A11972-08-25
FR2046716A21971-03-12
EP0359104A21990-03-21
FR698951A1931-02-09
Other References:
DATABASE WPI Section Ch Week 8728, Derwent World Patents Index; Class A11, AN 87-195617, XP002062311
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
URQUHART-DYKES & LORD (READING) (12 Richfield Avenue, Reading RG1 8EQ, GB)
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Claims:
What is claimed is:
1. A method for manufacturing a colorwashed cloth comprising: pretreating a textile material with a resist agent; and coloring said textile material to produce the colorwashed cloth, wherein said textile material is any base material used in the production of cloth, and wherein said resist agent produces a variable dye effect on said colorwashed cloth.
2. The method of claim 1, further comprising finishing said colorwashed cloth to give said colorwashed cloth a surface effect finish.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein said textile material is selected from the group consisting of loose fiber and spun yarn.
4. The method of claim 3, wherein said loose fiber is spun into yarn after being treated with said resist agent.
5. The method of claim 3, wherein said spun yarn is woven to form a solid sheet after being treated with said resist agent.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein said resist agent is selected from the group consisting of rice or potatobased starch, watersoluble acrylate, paraffin wax, semipermanent softener, silicon or fluorocarbon precondensates, tetrafluoroethylene, resin print binders, metallic mordants, and urea: formaldehyde: metal catalyst.
7. The method of claim 1, further comprising adding a fiber identification stain agent, wherein said fiber identification stain agent determines an extent of variable dye modification that has taken place on said textile material.
8. A colorwashed cloth prepared by the method of claim 1.
9. The method of claim 1, wherein said textile material comprises a material selected from the group consisting of natural fibers, modified natural fibers and synthetic fibers.
10. The method of claim 9, wherein said natural fibers and said modified natural fibers are selected from the group consisting of cotton, linen, flax, wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic.
11. The method of claim 1, wherein said coloring is selected from the group consisting of printing and dyeing.
12. The method of claim 11, wherein said printing comprises a process selected from the group consisting of flat screen printing, rotary screen printing, engraved roller printing, heat transfer printing, jet printing and spray printing.
13. The method of claim 11, wherein said dyeing comprises a process selected from the group consisting of atmospheric jet dyeing, winch dyeing, jig dyeing, pad roll dyeing, beam dyeing, star frame dyeing, vertical beam dyeing and rotary washer dyeing.
14. The method of claim 11, wherein dye used for said printing or dyeing is selected from the group consisting of pigment, vat, reactive, direct, disperse, acid, sulphur, azoic, phthalcoyanine, quinacridone and combinations thereof.
15. The method of claim 2, wherein said finishing comprises a process selected from the group consisting of chemical finishing and mechanical finishing.
16. The method of claim 15, wherein said chemical finishing comprises applying a material selected from the group consisting of softeners, sewing lubricants, resin stabilizers, proofing agents, dye and print resisting agents and fire retardants.
17. The method of claim 15, wherein said mechanical finishing comprises a process selected from the group consisting of brushing, raising, cropping, sanding, peaching, sueding, calendaring, embossing, blanket compacting, relaxing and softening.
18. A method for manufacturing cloth or a finished textile article comprising: (a) dyeing the cloth or the finished textile article which has not been desized, scoured or bleached; (b) mill washing the cloth or the finished textile article; and (c) drying the cloth or the finished textile article.
19. A method of claim 18, wherein the mill washing is conducted with a weak alkaline peroxide bleach solution.
20. A method of claim 18, wherein the drying is conducted with a hot cylinder or stenter.
21. A method of claim 18, wherein the mill washing is conducted with a weak alkaline peroxide bleach.
22. A method of claim 18, wherein the drying is conducted at 110°C.
Description:
TEXTILE WITH COLORWASHED ASPECT Field of the invention This invention relates to textile fabrics, and more particularly to processes for the manufacture and dyeing of textiles, and the resulting cloth which is characterized by its color effects.

The principal field of this invention is in the manufacture and dyeing of wide width sheeting, and in particular to the popular sheeting category known as"solids." This cloth, which is manufactured commercially in very great quantity is habitually sold in ranges of 7 to 14 solid dyed colors as the staple inventory of every mill of the western world. Solids find particular utility for the manufacture of bed linen.

Background of the Invention At the present time, blended basecloth, which is conventionally used for wide width sheeting, is woven uniformly from a warp and weft of completely blended polyester and cotton spun yarn. The blended yarn is usually treated, before or after weaving, with optical whites, to give the highest possible uniformity and enhancement of solid color when dyed.

The cloth woven in this manner can be pigment printed or dyed by the piece in a range of plain solid colors. It is kept cheaply in stock ready for color treatment in either of the above ways. After printing or dyeing, the cloth can be finished by a simple heat treatment. Massive quantities of 50/50 blend polyester/cotton are woven cheaply and used routinely and uniformly by mills throughout the United States of America.

A number of processes for printing and dyeing fabric structures exist in the art. For example, Martini et al. U. S.

Patent No. 5,006,129 discloses a process for dyeing textile material with pigment dyes; Martini U. S. Patent No. 5,131,913 discloses a process for producing pattern effects when printing or dyeing textile material; Miyamatsu et al. U. S. Patent No.

5,221,289 discloses a process for dyeing textile articles; Gurley U. S. Patent No. 5,403,362 discloses a process for preparing fibers for dyeing and fixing natural dyes to fibers; Gurley U. S. Patent No. 5,494,491 discloses a method of dyeing fibers or fabric using indigo dye; Weltrowski et al. U. S.

Patent No. 5,501,711 discloses a method of treating cellulose fibers to improve the dyeability with reactive dyes; and Kuehnel et al. U. S. Patent No. 5,518,508 discloses a continuous process for dyeing yarns with vattable dyes.

A number of processes for pretreating cloth prior to dyeing also exist in the art. For example, Sando et al. U. S.

Patent No. 5,334,224 discloses a method for the pretreatment of a long cloth continuously.

Summary of the Invention An object of the invention is to impart an undulating, irregular, shaded and watery appearance, resembling a painted colorwash (referred to herein as a"washed out"look), to sheeting, other textile fabric and finished textile articles, including, for example, garments, mats and towels. The sheeting and other textile fabric is also referred to herein as "textiles". The resulting textile is also referred to herein as a"colorwashed textile fabric".

Another object of the invention is to provide textiles, which by reserve treatment acquire, upon coloration techniques, a specific"washed out"look.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide manufacturing and dyeing processes that result in textiles having the specific"washed out"look (or effect).

It is proposed in accordance with the present invention to provide adaptations to conventional manufacturing and dyeing processes for textiles, and in particular for wide width sheeting, to obtain textiles having the appearance of gentle and undulating colorwashes.

Expressed in general terms, the invention provides textiles for coloring by printing or dyeing. The textiles (also referred to herein as"cloth") are treated at one or more points during the manufacturing process such that upon coloration, a"washed out"effect results. The"washed out" effect is achieved by altering the condition of the fiber, yarn and/or the cloth so that the dye is less well dispersed and less well absorbed (i. e., unevenly dispersed and absorbed) into the fiber, yarn and/or cloth than it would have been without the treatment.

The condition of the fiber, yarn and/or the cloth may be chemically or physically altered by various different methods and/or a combination of such methods at any point in the process of manufacturing the cloth. For example, untreated fiber, spun yarn and even cloth (knitted or woven) and final made-up items (i. e., finished textile articles), including, garments, mats and towels, the latter of which may be furnished for dyeing in piece ready finished form, may be altered in accordance with the present invention so that upon coloration by any means, dye is not absorbed uniformly by the fiber, yarn, cloth or final made-up item. The uneven absorption of the dye on the fiber, yarn, cloth or the final made-up items results in an uneven dispersion of color in the final product, thus producing the colorwashed effect.

An example of a means for altering the condition of the fiber or yarn during the manufacturing process comprises the steps of: (1) pretreating loose fiber or spun yarn with a resist agent or a reserve agent to produce, upon subsequent coloration, a dye-resist effect (i. e., reserve effect); (2) optionally knitting or weaving the fiber or yarn to form a cloth; (3) coloring, i. e., printing or dyeing the cloth, to overdye the cloth and obtain a"washed out"look; and (4) optionally finishing the cloth to give it a surface effect finish.

Even once the cloth is produced, it can be treated in accordance with the invention to obtain the colorwashed effect.

An example of a means for altering the cloth comprises the steps of: (1) dyeing the cloth that has not been desized, scoured or bleached; (2)"mill washing"the cloth using, for example, weak alkaline hydrogen peroxide bleach solution; and (3) drying the cloth by using, for example, a hot cylinder or stenter.

The same steps may be used to treat a finished textile article.

The present invention achieves several advantages. The play of color produced by, for example, the treated fiber, yarn or cloth of the invention results in, for example, a fluctuation of color having a random pattern of light and dark areas, which provides an appearance of movement, light, surprise and gentleness, and thus results in an entirely new and transforming look of the popular sheeting category known as solids.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a process flow diagram showing an entire process for producing textiles and indicating points at which textile material may be treated according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a flow diagram showing one example of the process of manufacturing a colorwashed solid according to the present invention; FIG. 3 is a flow diagram showing another example of the process of manufacturing a colorwashed solid according to the present invention; FIG. 4 is a color photograph of a plan view showing the colorwashed effect according to the present invention; and FIG. 5 is a diagram showing an example of an apparatus that may be used for dyeing according to the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The material used to prepare the product of the present invention, i. e.,"textile material", preferably consists of a natural or a modified natural fiber, including 100% cotton, or cotton or other cellulose-based natural fiber with any other percentage combination by yarn weight of linen, flax, ramie, silk, or wool, or a synthetic fiber, including polyester, nylon and acrylic.

The textile material can be in various stages of processing, for example, fiber, filament, spun yarn, slubbing, woven fabric, knitwear, cloth of any desired length, such as 2000 meters, or finished textile article. The invention is particularly suitable for pretreating fiber compositions or spun yarn.

A general description of the process is set forth below.

Referring to FIG. 1, untreated fibers and any additional fibers are placed in a loose stock dyeing machine. The additional fibers may include, for example, spun-dyed polyester (if a blend is required). A resist agent, e. g., sizing, and a lubricant may be added at this stage. The fibers are then spun for about 30 minutes at a temperature of about 40°C and a pH of about 8-9. The fibers are then washed with cold water, for about 20 minutes, dried, e. g., a microwave drier, and spun into yarn, e. g., carded or ring spun, and the yarn is woven into cloth. At the spinning stage, a resist agent, for example, 25% full strength: 25% half strength: 25% one-quarter strength: 25% zero strength size variation may be used.

The same process as above may also be used with different resist agents, as described below. a. Treat the fiber with starch based-size and acrylate size; b. Treat the fiber with paraffin wax, e. g., 10 g/l for 30 minutes at 60°C and pH 8-9, and warm wash off at 30°C ; c. Treat the fiber with a semi permanent softener, e. g., long chain fatty acid type (CnH2n02)-e. g., Sapamine, for 20 minutes at 40°C, and cold wash off; d. Treat the fiber with silicon, fluorocarbon or polytetrafluoroethane for 30 minutes at 60°C + acid catalyst- and cold wash off; e. Treat the fiber with a standard resin print binder + acid catalyst (e. g., boron trifluoride), e. g, 25 g/l for 30 minutes at 40°C, and cold wash off; f. Treat the fiber with metallic mordants, i. e., a chemical having the ability to form insoluble compounds with metallic salts-the amount and treatment time would vary for each individual mordant and can be ascertained by those skilled in the art, by well known techniques, depending on their ability to form insoluble compounds with metallic salts and precipitate on the textile substrate, e. g., when fresh Aluminum Hydroxide is dissolved in caustic soda it provides a sodium salt: ALO (OH) + NaOH-H2O + Na02 (insoluble). g. Treat the fiber with a resist agent, e. g., urea + formaldehyde + catalyst (e. g., calcium chloride), e. g., at 30 g/l + 12 g/l + 2 g/1, 30 minutes at 40°C, and cold wash off; h. Treat the fiber with caustic soda treatment-30% strength solution (full mercerisation, 3-12% strength solution (caustisized), 20 minutes cold, and cold wash off; Spun yarns may also be treated using the process described above for loose stock, but with a different process machine, i. e., a. hank dyeing machine; b. package dyeing machine; or c. beam dyeing machine.

The spun yarns are then dried in an appropriate drying machine, and subsequently woven/knitted. The garment/textile item is made up and colored in a final state in any suitable machine, e. g., circulating liquor flow garment/item dryer, revolving drum (laundry) type machine or a rotary drum dryer.

Cloth of any length or finished textile articles may also be treated according to the processes discussed above.

According to one embodiment of the invention, loose fiber can be processed prior to being spun into yarn in various ways to produce the colorwashed effect once the fiber is made into cloth. According to an example of this embodiment, the loose fiber is pretreated with various amounts of a resist agent or a reserve agent according to the specific effect required in the final product. A resist agent allows dyeing of the textile material, but not to a full normal level. A reserve agent allows tinting of the textile material only. Thus, the amount of color taken up by material treated with a resist agent would be greater than the amount of color taken up by material treated with a reserve agent. However, each is capable of producing the colorwashed effect on a finished product.

Generally speaking, compounds containing sulphates, a nitro group or a halogen group would produce a"resist"result and compounds producing oxides, e. g., titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, and chrome, zinc and iron oxides would produce"reserve" results. Each"reserve component can be prepared to a different strength depending on the amount by weight of the precipitated e. g., mordant, size or paraffin wax. The maximum amount of treatment is 100%, which is then diluted in subsequent applications. For example, 25% by weight of cotton can be treated with 100% strength resist agent; 25% by weight of cotton can be treated with 50% strength resist agent, 25% by weight of cotton can be treated with 25% strength resist agent, and 25% by weight of cotton as untreated ecru or scoured or bleached, that is to say, with no paraffin wax on cotton.

The term"strength"is used herein in the same manner as it is generally known and accepted in the art. For example, in the case of paraffin wax, 10 g/1 is full strength; 50% = 5 g/l of full strength; 25% = 2. 5 g/l of full strength; 25%-with no paraffin on the cotton.

The resist agent can be any material that is capable of producing a variable dye effect on the subsequently dyed or printed, fiber, yarn or cloth. Examples of suitable resist agents include the following: rice or potato-based starch sizes plus water-soluble acrylate size, which gives a variable base for coloration; paraffin wax; semi-permanent softeners; silicon or fluorocarbon precondensates (available from Ciba-Geigy/Sandoz) ; tetrafluoroethylene (e. g., TeflonTM available from Dupont); resin print binders (e. g., Helizarin available from BASF); metallic mordants, e. g., aluminum sulphate, chrome acetate nitrate/chloride, zinc chloride or sulphate, sodium-formate (e. g. Sandospace available from Sandoz); and urea + formaldehyde + metal catalyst. After the loose fiber, yarn or cloth has been treated with a resist agent, it can be contacted with any after-treating fixing agent, e. g., Methylol amine plus fatty amine polyglycolether, cationic in charge (FixanolTM PN based on Cetyl Pyridinium Bromide) to improve wash fastness of the fiber, yarn or cloth.

In addition, any agent that is able to produce the variable dye effect by any one of the following methods may be employed: (1) the application of water or enzyme removable compounds to the to loose fiber, yarn, cloth or made-up final item, such as cellulose starches (rice or potato) and vinyl halides, e. g., CH2 = CHC1- vinyl chloride; (2) the application of compounds that form linear substances around the axis of the cellulose or other chemical type of fiber or yarn used in the process; (3) the application of a chemical compound that has a direct chemical linkage, e. g., polar covalent or secondary hydrogen bond, with the loose fiber, yarn, cloth or made-up final item such as chrome bromate as used in a well known process called prechrome; (4) the application of a substance that forms a physical sheath, without a chemical interaction, with the cellulose or other chemical type of fiber or yarn used in the process, for example dimethyldihydroxyethylene urea type resins or urea and formaldehyde dihydroxy of the formula; (5) the application of any substance that forms a partial, temporary or transient chemical linkage with any fiber or yarn used in the yarn substrate, e. g., salts of metals with high solubility such as sodium sulphate or nitrate; or (6) the application of any substance that causes a permanent redefinition of the physical cross-section of any fiber or yarn used in the process, for example, the treatment of cotton or regenerated cellulose with sodium hydroxide solutions, of varying strength (for example, Mercerisation (30% strength solution) or Caustisisation (3-12% strength solution)) or liquid ammonia treatment at about-9°C or below. These processes modify the cross section of cotton from"bean"-shaped to cylindrical-shaped.

The specific process parameters of the pretreatment step vary depending on, for example, the resist agent or reserve agent used, the textile material employed, as well as on the desired effect. After the pretreatment step, the textile material is preferably rinsed with cold water prior to printing or dyeing.

In another embodiment of the invention, spun yarn can be processed in the same manner as the loose fiber to produce the colorwashed effect once the yarn is made into cloth.

In yet another embodiment of the invention, a loomstate fabric, (i. e., woven cloth) that has not been desized, scoured or bleached is pad dyed or jig dyed with standard pigment blue, not washed, and squeezed between the pad rollers. The best results are obtained with previously bleached cotton. The above process could be employed and the material can then be "mill washed"using a weak alkaline peroxide bleach, preferably hydrogen peroxide bleach. A suitable weak alkaline peroxide bleach may be a 10% solution of a 100 volume solution of hydrogen peroxide at a pH of about 9-10 for 5 minutes at 60°C, followed by one hot wash in water and two cold washes. The material is then stenter dried to a final temperature of about 110°C +/-1-5°C for 30-60 seconds. At this temperature, the cure would be incomplete and the pigment would wash out irregularly from the uneven base fabric. Furthermore, upon customer use, washing powder containing, e. g., abate compounds in alkaline medium, results in lightening of the base fabric, thus increasing the contrast.

In another embodiment, the cloth of the invention is prepared with warp yarns and weft yarns. The warp yarns have a different composition and thus take up dye differently than the weft yarns. The result is that the warp and weft yarns become differently colored and the woven fabric exhibits a play of colors to the eye upon inspection.

The warp and weft yarns are treated according to this invention prior to being woven with an organo-metal compound, e. g., stannous chloride or stannous oxide, which form stannites in a colloidal solution when dissolved in alkali, making it easy to apply. These methods are subject to current environmental laws. Warp yarn is then prepared with size normally requiring enzyme desize to remove, e. g., starch based size and weft yarn is prepared with water soluble size. The resulting woven cloth is given a light scour only treatment, which removes some, but not all of the water soluble size and very little of the starch based size.

Cotton, which naturally has a"bean"shape, can be changed in cross-section by treatment with strong caustic soda as follows: Warp, hank or package mercerize either the warp or weft yarn. If not full mercerizing, caustic treat using 18-20% caustic.

Treat the warp or weft yarn with a simple inexpensive paraffin wax, using for example, the method used in BATIK prints, but not giving 100% reserve.

The resultant modified cross-section would then be different from conventional yarn and take up liquor and reflect light in a different way than ecru yarn, thereby highlighting the washed out effect. The handle and drape produced by this method would be quite distinctive to the product.

The methods of weaving the spun yarn into cloth are essentially conventional and any weave (or knit) that gives a desired visual effect can be used. For example, the spun yarn may be woven on rapier, air jet, water jet, terry or conventional shuttle looms, with or without dobby or jacquard capabilities.

After any of the previously described pretreatment processes are completed, the fiber, the spun yarn, the cloth, or the made-up final item may be"colored"to ultimately obtain the"washed out"look in the final product.

"Coloring"includes both printing and dyeing. Generally, any coloring process that is suited to the respective textile material and dyestuff combination can be used.

With any such treatment, a"fiber identification stain" agent (e. g., ShirlastainTM, available from Shirley Developments, Manchester UK or any other similar agent) may be incorporated with each individual level of application to determine the extent of variable dye modification that has taken place on the textile material.

Suitable dyestuffs for printing and dyeing according to the present invention include pigment, vat, reactive, direct disperse, acid, sulphur, azoic, phthalcoyanine, quinacridone and combinations thereof.

In general, the invention can utilize any printing or dyeing technique, in conjunction with any dyestuff, that is tolerated by the resist agent or the reserve agent and textile material employed in the process. Dyes suitable for the process of the invention include compounds listed in the Color Index as vat dyes and also vattable disperse dyes with or without prior appropriate dispersion.

Printing may be carried out on prepared undyed bleached textile fabric. Printing enables selected areas to be dyed differently. A design can be used to produce, by photographic color separation techniques, an overall effect using pigment print dyes with reduced binder levels. Typical printing processes include flat screen printing, rotary screen printing, engraved roller printing, heat transfer printing and jet or spray printing.

Dyeing may be carried out by using, for example: a. the pigment system according to conventional dye routes; or b. cotton substantive"Direct Dyes"of medium level light fastness (e. g., Grade 4, Standard Depth) and low to medium washing fastness. The dyeing should be washed off to obtain the desired effect and the textile fabric is finally treated with a surface active agent, for example, FixanolTM or a similar agent, to preserve the look.

Referring to FIG. 5, an example of dip dyeing is shown.

The cloth 1 is wound onto a perforated beam 2 and, using a motorized pulley (or electric hoist) 3 with timer (not shown) is lowered into a bath (or dye vessel) 4 containing a cationic receptor solution (or dye liquid circulating in vessel) 5 and dyed with pigment dye (s) 6 by drawing the roll of wound cloth 1 from the bath 4 over a period of about 30 minutes. The cloth 1 is then slowly drawn out of the bath 4. During this time, the color runs gradually from one edge to the other, giving a shade variation across the width of the cloth.

According to the above, the following dyeing processes may be employed: 1. atmospheric jet dyeing by using the systems denoted in a and b (above); 2. winch dyeing by using the systems denoted in a and b; 3. jig dyeing by using the systems denoted in a and b; 4. pad roll dyeing by using the systems denoted in a and b; 5. beam dyeing by using the systems denoted in a and b; 6. star frame dyeing by using the systems denoted in a and b ; 7. vertical beam dyeing (wherein the vertical beam is withdrawn from liquor on a timer) by using the systems denoted in a and b; and 8. rotating drum washer/dyeing by using the systems denoted in a and b.

By using the previously described loose fiber, yarn or cloth processes to produce a"reserve effect,"a cloth can be overdyed according to the above coloring methods to obtain the "washed out"look by piece coloring. If an extra degree of highlighting is desired, additional dying process, using, for example, DIRECT DYES, can be carried out after the first dyeing process. For example: SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) 1. loose stock dye-reserve and then color by the systems denoted in a and b; 2. yarn dye/precolor-by beam, hank or package by the systems denoted in a and b; or 3. colored additions at the yarn spinning stage.

In addition to the coloration methods already noted, it is possible to include in the yarn composition mixture, at the yarn blending stage, a maximum of 2-3% by weight of solution/spun dyed polyester, nylon or acrylic. Color is added to the molten liquid chemicals before extrusion as filaments, e. g., a type of nylon by DuPont, which is made by a condensation reaction between hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid to form a liquid polymer, which can be colored with dye (s) before being extruded into solid strands of filaments. This process is economical and colorfast.

After any of the previously described coloring processes, the cloth obtained may be given surface effect finish to enhance its look and feel. Any conventional finishing process selected from the finishing techniques applied to cloth may be employed.

For example, chemical finishing may include the application of softeners and sewing lubricants; resin stabilizers; soil and body fat resistant chemicals; proofing agents dye and print resisting agents; and fire retardants.

Mechanical finishes may include brushing or raising, and cropping; sanding, peaching or sueding, calendaring, plain shell or engraved lines; embossing; and blanket compacting or relaxation or softening processes.

The following nonlimiting examples illustrate the invention.

Loose cotton fiber or spun yarn is treated according to the following: (1) dividing the total weight of material that is to form one roll of fabric into parts according to the following: (a) 50% by weight of loose stock cotton fiber or yarn; (b) 25% by weight of loose stock cotton fiber or yarn; and (c) 25% by weight of loose stock cotton fiber or yarn; and (2) treating (a) with a full strength solution (also referred to herein as"original solution") of a chemical that gives improved dye affinity (e. g., an acid salt of a long chain ethylene oxide), (b) with 50% of the original solution and (c) with 25% of the original solution.

This method, used with Direct Dyes gives the greatest shade variation on washing off as compared to, for example, the use of pigment dyes.

A resin binder process is described below.

1. Resin Binder Process a. treat any substrate, such as the cloth or fabric with a cationic receptor to make it receptive to anionic binder; b. add 10% (by weight of the substrate cloth) Solidieen RL plus 2% Acetic Acid (60% strength); c. run for 5 minutes cold, then for 10 minutes at 40°C ; d. drop bath, i. e., draining the bath (do not rinse); e. set fresh bath with anionic binder, i. e, an aqueous dispersion of acrylic co-polymer, e. g., Imperon, binder CSN 5% plus 0.5% Acetic acid (60% strength) and 2% of a non-ionic condensate of ethylene oxide, (e. g., Dispersegen ASN) and run for 5 minutes cold, then 10 minutes at 70°C ; and f. wash fabric off in a 0.5% Dispersegen ASN, at 40°C for 5 minutes.

The general features of the resin binder process are: Any substrate must first be treated with a Cationic receptor. a. 10% (by weight of fabric) Solidieen RL plus 2% Acetic Acid (60% strength) run for 5 minutes cold, then 10 minutes at 40°C. Drop bath, do not rinse. b. Set fresh bath-with-Imperon binder CSN-5% plus 0.5% Acetic Acid (60% strength). Plus 2% dispersegen ASN-run for 5 minutes cold then 10 minutes at 70°C. c. Wash off in 0.5% dispersegen ASN, 40°C for 5 minutes.

The above is a general process based on chemicals from HOECHST. However, the cationic, acetic acid (60%) print binder, and dispersing agent are all available from many chemical companies under other names. The essential base process includes: a. Cationic Pre-Treat of the substrate-to make receptive to anionic binder; b. Anionic Binder + Dispersing Agent; and c. Wash Off, with Dispersing Agent.

This will be the process most used. In order to add color, PIGMENT DYES ARE ADDED AT STAGE (1) b. Most coloration will be done at the woven or knitted fabric stage, though the above process can be applied to loose stock or yarn dyeing.

The embodiments described above provide a number of significant advantages. One of the principal benefits and advantages of the invention is that it provides a shaded and watery appearance resembling a painted water colorwashed appearance on cloth. It is believed that this look in solids has never been produced before by any method. Numerous fiber combinations and printing and dyeing routes can be used according to the invention to provide a wide variety of cloths and colorwashed effects. The resulting cloth provides a new and transforming look. Additionally, a new look in wide width sheeting for making bed linen is provided.

By use of a combination of coloration reserve, yarn combination, color application, washdown and finishing techniques, a specific colorwashed look may be obtained. For example, a flat smooth look may be obtained by printing or dyeing, e. g., beam dyeing; a stressed, worn look may be obtained by winch dyeing; a creased, uneven look may be obtained by jet dyeing; a melange look may be obtained by inclusion of solution dyed loose fibers; a side-to-side or edge-to-edge effect may be obtained by using a suspended beam dye/star dye in a vertical position and attached to a motorized hoist, wherein the cloth is drawn from the liquor over a timed period; and a fuzzy soft handle look may be obtained by use of different fabric finishing methods.

While the present invention has been described in connection with what is considered to be the most practical and preferred embodiments, it is understood that this invention is not limited to the disclosed embodiments but is intended to cover various arrangements which may be apparent to those skilled in the art from the disclosure of the invention.