The present invention relates, in general, to a transparent composition for application onto a targeted substrate. More particularly, the present invention relates to a transparent composition possessing an improved usability (such as hardness, pay-off, and spreadability), and an improved cosmetic effect (such as shiny effect and moisturizing effect).

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Conventional structured compositions typically employ various types of waxes as structuring agents in order to form user-friendly products having good pay-off (a term used to describe both the amount of product applied onto a target substrate, as well as, the way the product distributes onto the substrate), and stability properties, particularly with respect to temperature stability. The problem with wax-based stick compositions is that they possess an undesirable waxy feel and inherently reduce the shine of any shine-imparting ingredients present in the stick composition. And moreover, the products with wax are not transparent. Attempts have been made to formulate structured gel compositions in the absence of wax. For example, various types of polyamides have been commercialized as gelators/structuring agents in order to form solid compositions when using them in a relatively high amount. Similarly, various glutamides, as well as various types of polyurethanes have also been commercialized in order to form solid, preferably clear, compositions. However, these prior arts failed to provide compositions that possess an improved usability, such as pay-off and spreadability, and an improved cosmetic effect, such as shiny effect and moisturizing effect, when applying onto a target substrate, meanwhile the compositions as such exhibit pleasant transparent appearance, which is pursued by the consumers.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a transparent composition possessing the effects mentioned above, and overcoming the technical problems of the prior arts.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

The present invention relates to a transparent composition comprising: a) at least one non polymeric organogelator of N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a linear or branched chain alkyl group; b) at least one ester of dextrin and a fatty acid; c) at least one non-volatile oil phase, comprising from 30% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile polar oil, and from 5% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile apolar oil; And d) optionally at least one amide or ester terminated polyamide of formula (I),

X(COR ₂ CONHR ₃ NH) _n COR ₂ COX (I)

Wherein X represents -NKR^ group or -ORi group, wherein represents C ₈ - ₂ o linear chain or branched chain alkyl group which may be same or different from each other,

R ₂ represents a dimer acid, or diacid residue, and preferably dimer acid residue,

R ₃ represents an ethylenediamine residue, n represents an integer from 2 to 4, wherein if exists, the polyamide of formula (I) is present less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition as such has excellent usability and cosmetic effect when applying on a target substrate, for example the human skin, such as the face, the lips, or the body skin.

According to an embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one polyol of formula (II),

OH-RrCHOH-Rz (II) wherein:

Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ -C ₁₂ carbon chain,

R ₂ , same or different as Ri, represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₁₂ carbon chain. As additional advantages, the composition according to the present invention has the effect that it is stable under a wide range of temperatures.

The present invention also relates to a method of preparation of such a composition comprising the steps of: a) mixing at least one ester of dextrin and a fatty acid in part of at least one non-volatile oil phase comprising at least one non-volatile polar and/or at least one non-volatile apolar oil, heating the mixture to 50-125 °C under agitation; b) mixing at least one non polymeric organogelator of N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a linear or branched chain alkyl group in part of at least one non-volatile oil phase comprising at least one non-volatile polar oil and/or at least one non-volatile apolar oil, under the temperature of less than 150 °C; c) mixing the two mixtures until homogenization under the temperature of less than 150 °C.

According to a preferred embodiment, at least one polyol of formula (II) is added into the step b) under the temperature of less than 100 °C,

OH-RrCHOH-Rz (II)

Formula (II) wherein:

Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ -C ₁₂ carbon chain,

R ₂ , same or different as Ri, represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₁₂ carbon chain.

Another object of the invention is relating to a method for treating the keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lip, comprising the step of applying to the keratin material the composition previously defined.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Usually, the transparent compositions, when they are placed 0.01 m in front of a black line 2 mm thick in diameter drawn on a sheet of white paper, allow this line to be seen; in contrast, an opaque composition, i.e. a non-transparent composition, does not allow the line to be seen.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "transparent composition" can be understood as a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without scattering it, i.e. a composition in which the scattering angle of the light is less than 5° and is better still about 0°.

The transparent composition may transmit at least 50%, especially at least 60% and especially at least 70% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm.

The transmission measurement is made with a Cary 300 Scan UV-visible spectrophotometer from the company Varian, according to the following protocol:

- the composition is poured into a square-sided spectrophotometer cuvette with a side length of 10 mm;

- the sample of the composition is then maintained in a thermostatically-regulated chamber at 20°C for 24 hours;

- the light transmitted through the sample of the composition is then measured on the spectrophotometer by scanning wavelengths ranging from 700 nm to 800 nm, the measurement being made in transmission mode;

- the percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition at a wavelength of 750 nm is then determined.

Preferably, the "keratin material" according to the present invention is the skin. By "skin", we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lip.

The term "solid" composition means the form of the composition at 20°C, and in particular the term "solid" means a composition whose hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure

(760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm ^"1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.

The hardness of a solid composition is measured according to the following protocol.

The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness may be measured at 20°C via the "cheese wire" method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 μηη in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm ^"1 , is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted into Nm ^'1 by the equation below:

(Y x 10 ^"3 9.8)/L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention is solid.

For the purpose the present invention, it is preferable that the hardness of the composition of the present invention being greater than or equal to 40 Nm ^"1 , more preferably greater than or equal to 50 Nm ^"1 , even more preferably from 60 Nm ^"1 to 150 Nm ^"1 .For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2% by weight, and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.

According to an embodiment, the composition of the present invention is anhydrous.

As indicated above, the transparent composition according to the invention comprises optionally at least one amide or ester terminated polyamide of formula (I),

X(COR ₂ CON HR ₃ NH) _n COR ₂ COX (I) wherein X represents -Ν^) ₂ group or -ORi group, wherein represents C ₈ - ₂ o linear chain or branched chain alkyl group which may be same or different from each other,

R ₂ represents a dimer acid, or diacid residue, and preferably dimer acid residue, R ₃ represents an ethylenediamine residue, n represents an integer from 2 to 4, wherein if exists, the polyamide of formula (I) is present less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably in the formula (I), wherein: Ri is preferably C-14-20 alkyl group, more preferably C14-18 alkyl group, linear or branched, same or different from each other,

R ₂ is preferably dimer dilinoleic acid residue which is a dimeric acid residue, and residues of adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, undecane dioic acid, dodecane dioic acid, tridecane dioic acid, tetradecane dioic acid. Pentadecane dioic acid, octadecane dioic acid, nonadecane dioic acid and ecosane dioc acid which are dibasic acid,

R ₃ is a ethylenediamine residue, more preferably ethylenedimine radical,

N is preferably 3 or 4.

As the specific examples of the above mentioned polyamide resin, Haimalate Pam, Risosast PAM66, Sylvaclear A2000V and A2614 are amide-terminated polyamide resin, and Uniclear 100VG and C75V as the examples of the ester-terminated polyamide, which are preferred.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention optionally comprises the polyamide of formula (I) of less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to yet another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is essentially free of polyamide of the formula (I).

According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is free of wax. Organogelator

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non polymeric organogelator selected from N-acyl glutamic acid diamide (or dialkyl N-acylglutamide) having a linear or branched chain alkyl group.

An "organogelator" is defined herein to include a non polymeric organic compound whose molecules may be capable of establishing, between them, at least one physical interaction leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a three-dimensional

macromolecular network that may be responsible for the gelation of the liquid fatty phase.

The term "gelation" means structuring or, more generally, thickening of the medium, which may lead according to the invention to a fluid to pasty or even solid consistency. More particularly the non polymeric organogelators used in the composition according to the invention are selected from (C ₂ -C ₆ ) dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₂₂ alkyl chain, or a mixture thereof. Advantageously, the non polymeric organogelator is selcted from lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide (or dibutyl lauroyl glutamide), N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide (or dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide), or a mixture thereof. According to one embodiment, the non polymeric organogelators used in the composition of the present invention is preferably from lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide (or dibutyl lauroyl glutamide).

Lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide is for instance sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name GP-1 , of INCI name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, and N-2-ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide is for instance sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name EB-21 , of INCI name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide. Moreover, such a type of compounds is described in patent application JP2005-298635.

In one embodiment, non polymeric organogelator is used in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dextrin ester

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester of dextrin, preferably an ester of dextrin and a fatty acid.

According to the present invention, the dextrin ester is preferably ester of dextrin and a fatty acid which is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ fatty acid.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrine and a Ci ₄ -Ci ₈ fatty acid, for example myristic acid, palmitic acid, or a mixture thereof.

Mentions may be made of dextrin palmitate, for example those commercialized under the reference RHEOPEARL KL2 ^® OR by the company CHIBA FLOUR, dextrin myristate, for example such as those commercialized under the references Rheopearl MKL2 ^® by the company CHIBA FLOUR, or a mixture thereof.

According to yet another preferred embodiment, the ester of dextrin and a fatty acid of the present invention is dextrin myristate. Preferably the composition according to the invention comprise at least one ester of dextrin and a fatty acid ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile oil phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil phase.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The term "non-volatile oil" means oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm ² /min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m ³ that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm ² ) and per unit of time (minutes).

According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile oil phase comprises oils with high refractive index Cf about 1.48, preferably about 1.48+/-0.01.

It has to be noted that the refractive index mentioned above is a final refractive index of the oil phase. There is no limitation on the refractive index of each oil in the oil phase. The oils chosen to be present in the oil phase of the current invention shall reach the condition that the refractive index of the oil phase is about 1.48, preferably about 1.48+/-0.01.

Non-volatile polar oils The non-volatile oil phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile polar oil, wherein the non-volatile polar oil is present in the composition from 30% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition does not comprise any non-volatile silicone oil(s).

The term "silicone oil" means oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.

The term "fluoro oil" means oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

According to a first preferred embodiment, said non-volatile polar oil is hydrocarbon-based. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5a, is other than 0 (J/cm ³ )1/2.

These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, sesame oil

(820.6 g/mol);

- hydrocarbon-based mono- or di- esters of the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, oleyl erucate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate;

- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol

Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as

Hailuscent ISDA;

- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, which are branched or linear, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol; Preferably, the said alcohols are branched; mentions maybe made of octyldodecanol such as the product with the trade name Eutanol G ^® sold by the company BASF;

- saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

- dialkyi carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ^® by Cognis; and

- nonvolatile oils of high molecular mass, for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance: i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer,

Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol), ii) ester oils such as: a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g/mol); c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g/mol), d) esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate

(MW = 891.51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g/mol), e) esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer; mention may be made especially of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD- DA5 ^® and DD-DA7 ^® , and diisostearyl malate sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade name Schercemol ^™ Dism Ester;

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil chosen from linear and saturated fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, aromatic esters with a molecular mass between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, tridecyl trimellitate, or a mixture thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile polar oil is present in a total content of between 35% and 80% by weight, preferably between 40% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile apolar oils

According to the invention, the non-volatile oil phase comprises at least one non-volatile apolar oil. Preferably the non-volatile apolar oil is hydrocarbon-based.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5a, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts; - δρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and - 5a is determined by the equation: 5a = (δρ ² + 5h ² )½.

The parameters δρ, 5h, 5D and 5a are expressed in (J/cm3)½.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar oils are chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils free of oxygen, and/or nitrogen atoms.

In some embodiment, the viscosity of at least one non-volatile apolar oil is preferably at least 200 cSt under 100°C.

More preferably, the viscosity of the non-volatile apolar oil of the present invention is at least 2000 cSt under 100°C, more preferably at least 5000 cSt under 100°C.

Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- squalane, - isoeicosane,

- liquid petroleum jelly,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes (or polybutenes), such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, - hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, such as Parleam sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol), - decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar oil is polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene/butane copolymers, or a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil is polybutylene (polybutene).

The composition according to the invention comprises the non-volatile apolar oil from 7% to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

The composition of the present invention further comprises at least one polyol of formula (I I),

In the formula (I I):

Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ -C ₁₂ carbon chain, R ₂ , same or different as Ri , represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₁₂ carbon chain.

Preferably, Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C4 carbon chain, even more preferably, R- is d or C ₂ group, which is, -CH ₃ group, -CH ₂ CH ₂ - group, or a mixture thereof.

Preferably, R ₂ , same or different as Ri , is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₁₀ carbon chain, or more preferably a Ci-C ₈ carbon chain. Mentions can be made of propylene glycol, such as those commercialized under the trade name Propylene glycol USP/EP from the company Dow Chemical, butylene glycol such as the one sold under the trade name Propylene glycol USP/EP by the company Dow Chemical, pentylene glycol, for example those sold under the trade name Hydrolite ^® -5 from the company Symrise, caprylyl glycol such as those sold under the trade name Hydrolite ^® CG by the company Symrise, or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the polyol is present in the composition of the present invention from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may be manufactured by the known processes that are generally used in cosmetics or dermatology.

Preferably, it may be manufactured by the process which comprises the steps of: a) mixing at least one ester of dextrin and a fatty acid in part of at least one non-volatile oil phase comprising at least one non-volatile polar and/or at least one non-volatile apolar oil, heating the mixture to 50-125 °C under agitation; b) mixing at least one non polymeric organogelator of N-acyl glutamic acid diamide having a linear or branched chain alkyl group in part of at least one non-volatile oil phase comprising at least one non-volatile polar oil and/or at least one non-volatile apolar oil, under the temperature of less than 150 °C; c) mixing the two mixtures until homogenization under the temperature of less than 150 °C. According to a preferred embodiment, at least one polyol of formula (II) is added into the step b) under the temperature of less than 100 °C instead of 150 °C,

Formula (II) wherein:

Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C12 carbon chain, R ₂ , same or different as Ri , represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C12 carbon chain. Another object of the invention is relating to a method for treating the keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lip, comprising the step of applying to the keratin material the composition previously defined.

The present invention also relates to a method for treating the keratin materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratin material the composition previously defined.

More preferably, the keratin material is the skin, such as the face and the lips, more preferably the lips.

Galenic form

The composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of make up product such as lip balm, lip stick, lip gloss, and so on.

Additives

In a particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from, hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected. According to a preferred embodiment, the current invention comprises less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.1 % of pigments, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples which follow. The amounts are given as percentage by mass.

EXAMPLES

1. Formulation examples The following formulation examples were prepared:

Table 1 : invention examples

INCI name Invention examples (% of ingredient by raw material (wt%))

1 2 3 4

Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide 4 0 5 4

(GP-1 from Ajinomoto)

Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl 0 4 0 0 glutamide

(EB-21 from Ajinomoto)

Dextrin myristate 5 5 3 0

(Rheopearl MKL2 ^® from

CHIBA FLOUR)

Dextrin pa Imitate 0 0 0 5

(Rheopearl KL2 ^® from

CHIBA FLOUR)

Polybutene (Indopol H- 30 30 20 30

1500 (MW = 2160

g/mol) from Amoco)

Octyldodecanol (Eutanol 30 30 30 30

G ^® from BASF)

Tridecyl trimellitate 20.8 20.8 32.3 20.8 (Liponate ^® TDTM from

Lipo Chemicals) Bis-diglyceryl 10 10 10 10 polyacyladipate-2

(Softisan ^® 649 from

Cremer oleo)

Fragrance 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

Table 2: comparative exam

INCI name Comparative examples (% of ingredient by raw material (wt%))

1 2 3

Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (GP-1 from 4 4 4

Ajinomoto)

Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide 0 0 0

(EB-21 from Ajinomoto)

Dextrin myristate (Rheopearl MKL2 ^® from 5 5 5

CHIBA FLOUR)

Dextrin pa Imitate 0 0 0

(Rheopearl KL2 ^® from CHIBA FLOUR)

Polybuyltene (Indopol H-1500 (MW = 30 0 0

2160g/mol) from Amoco)

Polyamid resin (Uniclear 100VG from 10 0 10 Arizona Chemical)

Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G ^® from BASF) 30 30 30

Tridecyl trimellitate (Liponate ^® TDTM from 10.8 50.8 40.8

Lipo Chemicals)

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan ^® 10 10 10

649 from Cremer oleo)

Fragrance 0.2 0.2 0.2

Protocol of process

The formulation examples were prepared following the steps of: a) mixing dextrin myristate or dextrin palmitate respectively, at room temperature with tridecyl trimelitate and 10% of octyldocdecanol until homogenization under agitation, heating the mixture to 1 15°C under agitation until the mixture is transparent; mixing half quantity of polybutene and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 with the mixture until homogeneous; b) mixing dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, or polybutyltene, respectively, with 20% of octyldocecanol at 150 °C till the mixture is transparent; mixing the remaining polybutene and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 with the mixture until homogeneous; c) mixing the two mixtures together until homogenization under 1 15 °C; d) adding to the mixture the fragrance.

2. Evaluation examples

Evaluations on the usabilities such as hardness, pay-off and spreadability, the cosmetic effect, such as shiny effect and moisturizing effect while applying the examples to a target substrate, as well as the transparency of the invention and comparative examples were taken place. The hardness, transparency, spreadability, and moisturizing effect are evaluated by a group of 6 panelists. Invention examples 1 , 2, 3 and 4, and comparative examples 1 , 2, and 3 were applied on the lips of the 6 panelists and scores of comfort were given to each of the examples.

Transparency was evaluated by placing 0.01 m of the examples in front of a black line 2 mm thick in diameter drawn on a sheet of white paper, allow this line to be seen; in contrast, an opaque composition, i.e. a non-transparent composition, does not allow the line to be seen.

Pay-off effects were evaluated by 5 experts following steps of: repeatedly apply the examples 3 times on the same area of the forearm using the same force; weigh the weight loss of the product; measure the size of the area on the forearm where the product was applied to; calculate the weight loss per square centimeter.

Then shiny effects were measured directly with the gloss meter Konica Minolta Multi Gloss 268 plus on the forearm using the setting "60 degree measuring angle".

Finally, comments or scores were given by the experts on the above mentioned properties. 5: very good;

4: basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly poor and not acceptable; 1 : poor, not acceptable.

Property Scores of the examples

Invention examples Comparative examples

1 2 3 4 1 2 3

Hardness Moderate Moderate Moderate Moderate Too Moderate Moderate hard Transparency 5 5 5 4 2 4 4

Pay-off 2.23 1.90 2.04 1.76 0.45 1.01 0.96 (mg/cm ² )

Spreadability 5 4 5 4 1 5 5

Moisturizing 5 3 4 5 2 2 2 effect

Shiny effect 23.2 21.3 20.9 16.5 5.8 7.7 7.9

Based on the above listed evaluation results, the inventors discovered that the composition according to the present invention overcomes the technical issues existing in the prior art, and provides a stable and transparent composition possessing an improved usability and cosmetic effect.

3. Formulation examples comprising polyols

Table 3: lip stick formulas comprising polyols

INCI name Lip stick formulas comprising polyols (% of ingredient by raw material (wt%)

A B C

Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide 4 4 4

(GP-1 from Ajinomoto)

Dextrin myristate 5 5 5

(Rheopearl MKL2 ^® from

CHIBA FLOUR)

Polybutene (Indopol H- 30 30 30 1500 (MW = 2160

g/mol) from Amoco)

Octyldodecanol (Eutanol 30 30 30

G ^® from BASF)

Tridecyl trimellitate 19.5 20.5 20.5

(Liponate ^® TDTM from

Lipo Chemicals)

Bis-diglyceryl 10 10 10

polyacyladipate-2

(Softisan ^® 649 from

Cremer oleo)

Pentylene glycol 1 0 0

(616751 Hydrolite ^® -5

from Symrise)

Caprylyl glycol (199602 0.5 0 0

Hydrolite ^® CG from

Symrise)

Propylene glycol 0 0.5 0

(Propylene glycol

USP/EP from Dow

Chemical)

Butylene glycol (1 ,3 0 0 0.5

Butylene glycol from

Daicel)

Fragrance 0.2 0.2 0.2

The lip stick formulas A, B, and C were preparec according to the protocol in 1. Formulation examples disclosed above, by adding different polyols, pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, respectively, in the step b) and mixing the mixture under the temperature of 99 °C instead of 150°C. The lip stick formulas 1 to 3 prepared as such are transparent and stable over time (for example 2 months under 25 °C).

Advantageously, due to the existence of the polyols, the temperature of step b) during manufacturing was much lower, which improves the manufacturing process.