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Title:
HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR SHAPING OR ALTERING THE SHAPE OF THE HAIR
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2021/203180
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
The present application relates to a hair cosmetic composition, a process involving applying the hair cosmetic composition onto hair for shaping or altering the shape of the hair, for example, by straightening the hair, and the use of the hair cosmetic composition, wherein the composition contains at least one reducing agent, at least one amino acid ad at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.

Inventors:
PETALI ÉRIKA ALEGRIO JARQUE (BR)
Application Number:
PCT/BR2020/050124
Publication Date:
October 14, 2021
Filing Date:
April 09, 2020
Export Citation:
Click for automatic bibliography generation   Help
Assignee:
OREAL (FR)
PETALI ERIKA ALEGRIO JARQUE (BR)
International Classes:
A61K8/44; A45D7/04; A61K8/46; A61Q5/04; A61Q5/06
Domestic Patent References:
WO2016154701A12016-10-06
WO2016076437A12016-05-19
WO2012027369A22012-03-01
Foreign References:
US6129770A2000-10-10
KR20200023871A2020-03-06
US4185087A1980-01-22
EP0530974A11993-03-10
US4874554A1989-10-17
US4137180A1979-01-30
EP0216479A11987-04-01
EP0898960A11999-03-03
EP0898958A11999-03-03
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
NAKATA, Carolina et al. (BR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
SET OF CLAIMS

1. A hair cosmetic composition, comprising:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based reducing agents;

(b) at least one amino acid;

(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, wherein the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Ce- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, their salts, and mixtures thereof; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.

2. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the at least one reducing agent is present in an amount of 0.1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2- mercaptopropionic acid, 3 - mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N- acetylcysteine and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferably from thiolactic acid thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one amino acid is selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.

6. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one amino acid is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, and a mixture thereof.

8. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 3 to 6.

10. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein it is silicone free.

11. A process for altering the shape and the color of the hair, the process comprising the steps of: a) optionally, applying a bleaching composition to the hair; b) optionally, rinsing the hair; c) applying a hair cosmetic composition at least once onto the hair; wherein the hair cosmetic composition comprises:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based reducing agents;

(b)at least one amino acid;

(c)at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, wherein the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is selected from (Cs- C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, their salts, and mixtures thereof; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7; d) pausing for a period of time; e) drying the hair (up to 100% dried); f) applying a flat iron to the hair; g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair; and h) rinsing the hair.

12. A process, according to claim 11 , wherein steps c) to g) can be repeated, preferably in a period of several weeks.

13. A process, according to claim 11 , wherein a bleaching composition can be applied to the hair before step c).

14. Use of a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based reducing agents;

(b) at least one amino acid;

(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7, wherein the composition is for straightening hair.

15. A hair cosmetic composition for shaping or altering the shape of the hair, comprising:

(a) from 0.1 to 4% by weight of at least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and their salts thereof;

(b) from 0.1 a 6.0% by weight of at least one amino acid, selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures thereof;

(c) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, their salts, and mixtures thereof; wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5; wherein the percentages amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

Description:
HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR SHAPING OR ALTERING

THE SHAPE OF THE HAIR FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present application relates to a hair cosmetic composition, a process involving applying such composition onto hair for shaping or altering the shape of the hair, for example, by straightening the hair, and the use of the hair cosmetic composition, wherein the hair cosmetic composition contains at least one reducing agent, at least one amino acid and at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are available commercially in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form, these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits and attributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application. Thus, in order to meet changing consumer needs and preferences, manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate and create new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stable and safe to use. In addition, manufacturers continue to test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms that would help deliver the desired attributes and properties with respect to viscosity, texture, stability and efficacy.

The quality and condition of hair is generally adversely affected by the action of external agents such as sunlight, wind, pollution, humidity, and chemicals in swimming pools, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, shampooing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends leading to split ends. Under such circumstances, hair can also become less manageable, more frizzy and less disciplined, and more difficult to style or shape. Hair care products are used to combat these drawbacks. Conventional cleansing compositions such as shampoos, for example, which contain surfactants such as anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type surfactants, can be employed to remove the diverse types of soils typically present on hair. These cleansing compositions, while providing good cleansing power, may result in a less conditioned or rough feel to the hair due to, for example, the gradual removal of the natural or applied fats, lipids, or proteins contained in or at the surface of the hair. In addition, washing hair with water alone can also cause the hair to become tangled, less smooth and dry. Hair conditioner or hair masque (mask) products can be used on hair after it has been shampooed or rinsed in order to confer hair caring properties to hair. Traditional conditioners and masques provide conditioning, smoothing, softening and visual sleekness to hair and are generally rinse-off products.

Consumers also seek hair caring regimens and products that can provide control, or even eliminate frizziness, and control or reduce the volume and the apparent mass of hair on the head as well as provide additional benefits of changing the appearance, shape or configuration of hair. In addition, consumers desire that such products impart longer-lasting or continuous benefits to hair over a period of time. Thus, it is desirable for manufacturers of hair products to formulate not only rinse-off shampoos and conditioners but also products that do not involve immediate rinsing or that provide longer term treatments such as those provided by leave-on hair products.

One type of product that can shape or configure hair are hair styling products, for example, leave-in gels and creams which employ ingredients such as film forming polymers that impart desirable styling or shaping hold while on the hair. However, some ingredients can be easily removed from the hair, for example by rinsing or washing. Thus, any cosmetic benefits to the hair from such products are generally diminished or removed once the hair is rinsed or washed.

Another type of composition that can be applied onto hair in order to change its shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline composition that is found in commercial hair relaxers or hair straighteners. These products can confer longer lasting shape or style to the hair. Alkaline hair relaxing/straightening involves hydrolyzing the keratin of the hair with various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines. Hair relaxing/straightening products that employ sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called lye-based products and products that use other alkaline agents such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-hydroxide compounds, for example, organic amines, generally fall under the category of no-lye products. Still, it is desirable to find alternatives to the alkaline lye- and no-lye-based products and process described above which can damage the hair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers.

Thus, it is highly desirable to have hair care regimens and products that, for example, relax or straighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair, or reduce/loosen curls while making the hair more manageable, untangled, more easily styled or shaped, and disciplined. At the same time, it is also highly desirable that such regimens and products confer cosmetic effects that are long-lasting.

It is an object of embodiments of the disclosure to provide a hair cosmetic composition with ingredients that can effectively shape or alter the shape of hair or confer straightening benefits as well as enhanced hair caring and manageability properties and other cosmetic properties such as volume control/reduction, frizz control/reduction, discipline (less fly-aways), and regularity of shape. However, the discovery of new compositions and processes for treating hair that have enhanced efficacy but impart less or minimal damage to hair, may pose challenges to manufacturers and formulators because the incorporation of new ingredients into the compositions may negatively impacting their performance, cosmetic attributes, texture, and formulation stability. In addition, the acidity/alkalinity and/or pH is an important consideration for these products. New processes for treating and changing the shape of hair may also impact the performance of the compositions, processing times and quality of use. Thus, manufacturers of such products continuously test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms and seek to re-formulate and create new products with the desired qualities, while still remaining stable and safe to use.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a hair cosmetic composition, wherein the composition comprises:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based reducing agents;

(b) at least one amino acid;

(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant; wherein the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Ce- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts; wherein the pH of the hair cosmetic composition is less than 7.

The present invention is also directed to processes for treating the hair involving the application of the above-described hair cosmetic composition onto hair and the use of said composition for straightening and/or altering the shape of the hair.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present hair cosmetic compositions effectively alter the shape or configuration of the hair and provide manageability properties to hair, including one or more of conditioning; straightening effects; frizz control; volume reduction or volume control; styling or re-shaping/shaping effects; curl reduction effects while having improvement or retention of curl definition; texlaxing effects; relaxing effects; humidity resistance; cosmeticity to the feel; smooth feel; natural feel; less or reduced rough ends; and/or improvement of the appearance and integrity of hair.

“At least one” as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

“Keratinous substrates” as used herein, includes, but is not limited to keratin fibers such as hair and/or scalp on the human head.

"Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to one or more hair fibers at least one property chosen from combability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and consumer perception.

The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term ‘treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.

A "rinse-off" product refers to a composition such as a hair cosmetic composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or styling said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the hair cosmetic composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing. A "leave-on" product refers to a composition such as a hair cosmetic composition that is applied onto hair and left to remain on the hair while drying and/or styling the hair.

The term “stable” as used herein means that the hair cosmetic composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about

100 Q C.

"Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100 Q C.

“Reducing agent" as used herein, means an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the hair.

“Active material” as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

"Substituted," as used herein, means comprising one or more substituents. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

"Polymers," as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.

“INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

The hair cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 10% of the indicated number.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

In an embodiment, the present invention is directed to a hair cosmetic composition, wherein the composition comprises:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol-based reducing agent, selected from thiol-based reducing agents;

(b) at least one amino acid;

(c) at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, wherein the at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Ce- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from 0.1 to 4% by weight of at least one reducing agent, selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and their salts thereof;

(b) from 0.1 a 6.0% by weight of at least one amino acid, selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine;

(c) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one amphoteric or amphiphilic surfactant, selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts; wherein the pH of the hair cosmetic composition is 3.5 to 4.5; wherein the percentages amounts are based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the hair cosmetic composition is silicone free or essentially free of silicone.

In some cases, the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones. For example, the compositions include less than about 3 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 1 wt.%, or 0.5 wt.% of silicones, or preferably, do not contain silicones. In some cases, the compositions comprise silicones. Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine- functionalized silicones (e.g., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, etc.

In another embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain a raw material that is commercially available in a blend containing a silicone compound.

The present invention is also directed to processes for treating the hair involving the application of the above-described hair cosmetic composition onto hair and the use of said composition for straightening and/or altering the shape of the hair

The present invention is also directed to processes for treating the hair involving the application of the above-described hair cosmetic composition onto hair that has been previously chemically treating the hair, for example, after bleaching the hair. Treatment of the hair with the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure can be repeated at regular intervals over a period of time.

In an embodiment, the present invention relates to a process for altering the shape and the color of the hair, the process comprising the steps of: a) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; b) rinsing the hair; c) applying the hair cosmetic composition at least once onto the hair; d) pausing for a period of time such as for about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, or 30 minutes or for a period of time ranging from about 5 minutes up to about 60 minutes; e) blow drying (up to 100% dried) f) applying a flat iron to the hair (set at a temperature of up to about

230°C); g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair; h) rinsing the hair.

In one embodiment, the steps c) to g) can be repeated in a period of several weeks.

In another embodiment of the invention, the period of several weeks is 2 weeks or 15 days.

In preferred embodiments, the hair cosmetic composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair straightening composition. In yet other preferred embodiments, said hair straightening composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair straightening.

In other preferred embodiments, the hair cosmetic composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair curl reducing composition. In yet other preferred embodiments, said hair curl reducing composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair curl reduction such as hair straightening or hair texlaxing or hair curl stretching.

The compositions in the above-described process are stable over time, that is, they do not exhibit phase separation and they can be stored for several months without modification and with very little change or fluctuation in the viscosity and/or rheology and pH of the hair cosmetic composition.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the application of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention, resulted in effectively shaped or straightened hair or effectively reduced degree of curling of hair.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that hair that has been chemically treated (such as bleached hair) followed by treatment with the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention presented better fiber integrity as compared to other treatments.

It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the hair cosmetic composition of the invention was stable over time and had a smooth, non- drip, and homogenous texture/consistency and effectively shaped or straightened hair.

The non-drip consistency of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention is desirable because it helps the hair cosmetic compositions to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time as to achieve the desired shape of the hair or desired degree of straightening or reduction of the curl of the hair.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3- mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the amino acid is selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, amino acid derivatives such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci- C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-

C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thiol-based reducing agent is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight, even more preferably from about 3% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention further comprise at least one neutralizing agent selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the neutralizing agent is at least one amino acid.

In one embodiment, the amino acid of the present invention, such as arginine or lysine or other amino acid can be used as the neutralizing agent.

In one embodiment, the pH of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention ranges from about pH 3 to about 7, or from about pH 3 to about 6, or from about pH 3 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 3 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 3.5 to about 4.5, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.

In one embodiment, hair cosmetic compositions of the of the present invention further comprise at least one additional component selected from organic solvents, plasticizers, opacifiers, plant/vegetable oils, hydrocarbons, lower alkanes, fragrance, preservatives, pH adjusters, plant extracts, salts, vitamins, sunscreens, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cleansing or shampoo composition.

In one embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is a leave-on hair composition. In one embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is a leave-on or rinse-off hair mask composition.

The hair cosmetic compositions described above may be used on any type of hair, for example, light or dark hair, straight or curly, natural hair, or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.

In a preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is applied on curly, embrittled, and/or damaged hair.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

REDUCING AGENT

The present invention employs at least one reducing agent selected from thiol reducing agents.

Thiol reducing agents which can be used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention include thiol reducing agents selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thio diglyco I, 2- mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the reducing agent or agents used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention are thiol reducing agents, more particularly thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid or their salts thereof, especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salts, cysteine, and mixtures thereof. In yet other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention is chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof

In certain embodiments, the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention is thiolactic acid, it salts, and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention includes thiolactic acid.

In other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention is thioglycolic acid.

In yet other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the hair cosmetic composition of the invention comprises thiolactic acid and thiolgycolic acid.

The at least one reducing agent can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 3.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In various embodiments, the at least one reducing agent may be present in an amount of from about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1 ,6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, or 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

AMINO ACIDS

The amino acids of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, amino acid derivatives such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the at least one amino acid is chosen from arginine, serine, cysteine, glutamic acid, an amino acid derivative such as glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the at least one amino acid includes arginine. According to one embodiment, the at least one amino acid is arginine.

The at least one amino acid may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 6.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 5.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4% by weight, or even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.

In various embodiments, the at least one amino acid may be present in an amount of from about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1,6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, or 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT

The amphoteric surfactants of the present invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (Ce- C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (Ce- C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (Ce- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (A1) and (A2) below: (A1) Ra-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO-) in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra- COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group, Rb represents a b-hydroxyethyl group,

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

(A2) Ra’-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m’-N(B)(B') in which:

B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2- COOZ’, CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(CH2)z-Y\ with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing COOH, COOZ’, CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z’, m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola-mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa-nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably pre-sent in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) in which X’ represents a hydrogen atom, mention may be made of compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiace-tate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroam-phodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodi-propionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (A3): (A3) Ra”-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)n-C(0)-NH-(CH )n’-N(Rd)(Re) in which:

- Ra" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"- C(0)0H preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y" represents the group -C(0)0H, -C(0)0Z”, -CH2-CH(0H)-S0 3 H or the group CH2-CH(0H)-S03-Z”, with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and - n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from

1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3), mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodi-um diethylaminopropylcocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs-

C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, (Cs-

C2o)alkylamphoacetates and (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present invention is chosen from (C8-C2o)alkyl betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido betaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs-

C2o)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI names coco-betaine, (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI name cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the amphoteric surfactant is coco-betaine.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from coco-betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of amphoteric surfactants ranges from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.8% to about 6% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

AMINO SILICONES

The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more amino silicones. The term “amino silicone” is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

As amino silicone that may be used in the scope of the invention, the following can be cited: a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500 000; b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R'aG3-a-Si(0SiG2)n-(0SiGbR'2-b)m-0-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which:

- G, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or C-i-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or C-i-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

- b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ; - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula -CqH2ql_ in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-Q-N(R")2

-N(R”)2 -N+(R")3 A-

-N+H(R")2 A- -N+H2(R") A- -N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A- -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A- -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-, in which R", which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon -based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched Crh r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" having formula (C): in which n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formulae (D) or (E): in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- R1 , R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000000, more particularly from 3500 to 200 000. in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- R1, R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denotes an alkoxy radical. The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 200000, even more particularly 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50000.

Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their hair cosmetic composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in- water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones having formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included). Accordingly, according to the invention the microemulsions of amino silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F): in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G): in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000.

A silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning. c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H): in which:

- R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a Ci- C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C-i-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such amino silicones are described more particularly in patent US 4

185 087. d) quaternary ammonium silicones having formula (I): in which:

- R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a Ci- C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C-i-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A

0 530 974. e) amino silicones having formula (J): in which:

- R1 , R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a Ci- C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group;

- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group;

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g; f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe20)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-0(C2H40)a(C 3 H 6 0)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively

[-(SiMe20)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - 0(C2H 0)a(C 3 H60)b -] in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between from 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more particularly from 10 to

5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -

CH2CH2CH20CH(0H)CH2- radical; preferentially R denotes a CH2CH2CH 0CH(0H)CH2- radical;

- R', which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -

CH2CH2CH 0CH(0H)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH 3 )-CH -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0,05 and 0,2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.

Mention may be made especially of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft™ A-843 or Silsoft™ A+ by Momentive. g) the alkylamino silicones corresponding to formula (K) below: in which:

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms,

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made especially of the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH CH(CH3)CH2-.

Preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

Preferentially, the silicone is of formula (K) with:

- x ranging from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;

- y ranging from 1 to 100;

- A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH CH(CH3)CH2-; and

- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may be made especially of the silicone sold under the name

Silsoft™ AX by Momentive.

In one embodiment, the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG amodimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl/hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (F). A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

When present in the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention, the amino silicone is in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 8% by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.4% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In another embodiment of the present invention, the hair cosmetic composition is silicone free or essentially free of silicones.

In another embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain a raw material that is commercially available in a blend containing a silicone compound. NONIONIC SURFACTANTS

In one embodiment, the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise at least one nonionic surfactant selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, fatty acid alkanolamides, and mixtures thereof. Fatty Alcohols

The fatty alcohols correspond to linear, branched saturated/un saturated fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 60 carbon atoms and preferably correspond to the formula R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 50 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 10 to 22 carbon atoms optionally comprising one or more OH groups.

The saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched and can be in liquid form. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

The unsaturated fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected, for example, from octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols of the invention may be in solid form and may be non- oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols may be constituents of animal or plant waxes.

The solid fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product. One example of such a commercial product is cetearyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, commercially available under the trade name of LANETTE-0 from the company BASF. Cetyl alcohol may also be commercially available under the tradename of LANETTE 16 from the company BASF. In an embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols of the present invention may be chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable examples of the solid fatty alcohol of the present invention include branched solid fatty alcohols chosen from 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol, and mixtures thereof. In embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol comprises cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

In embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Alkoxylated fatty alcohols "Alkoxylated fatty alcohol" as used herein means a compound having at least one fatty portion (8 carbon atoms or more) and at least one alkoxylated portion (-(CH2)nO-, where n is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably 2 to 3). According to particularly preferred embodiments, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention can be used as non-ionic surfactants, if desired. In this regard, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention preferably have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value from 1-20, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, with HLB values ranging from 1 to 5 (particularly 3 to 5) or from 15-20 (particularly 16 to 18) being most preferred. Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, propoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be chosen from di-alkyl, tri- alkyl- and combinations of di-alkyl and tri-alkyl substituted ethoxylated polymers. They can also be chosen from mono-alkyl, di-alkyl, tri-alkyl, tetra-alkyl substituted alkyl ethoxylated polymers and all combinations thereof. The alkyl group can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear and contain a number of carbon atoms preferably from about 12 carbon atoms to about 50 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, for example, 20 to 40 carbon atoms, 22 to 24 carbon atoms, 30 to 50 carbon atoms, and 40 to 60 carbon atoms. Most preferably, the fatty portion contains a mixture of compounds of varying carbon atoms such as, for example, C20-C40 compounds, C22-C24 compounds, C30-C50 compounds, and C40- C60 compounds.

Preferably, the alkoxylated portion of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention contain 2 or more alkoxylation units, preferably from 10 to 200 alkoxylation units, preferably from 20 to 150 alkoxylation units, and preferably from 25 to 100 alkoxylation units, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Also preferably, the alkoxylation units contain 2 carbon atoms (ethoxylation units) and/or 3 carbon atoms (propoxylation units).

The amount of alkoxylation can also be determined by the percent by weight of the alkoxylated portion with respect to the total weight of the compound. Suitable weight percentages of the alkoxylated portion with respect to the total weight of the compound include, but are not limited to, 10 percent to 95 percent, preferably 20 percent to 90 percent, including all ranges and subranges therebetween with 75 percent to 90 percent (particularly 80 percent to 90 percent) or 20 percent to 50 percent being preferred.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention have a number average molecular weight (Mn) greater than 500, preferably from 500 to 5,000, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, Mn of 500 to 1250 or an Mn of 2,000 to 5,000.

Suitable examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include: laureth-3, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth~23, ceteth-10, steareth-10, steareth-20 steareth-2, steareth-100, beheneth-5, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, oleth-10, Pareth alcohols, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth-7, PPG-5 ceteth-20, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, glycereth-26 (PEG-26 Glyceryl Ether), PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and mixtures thereof.

AlkvKetherfphosphates

Suitable alkyl(ether)phosphates include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters corresponding to a mono-ester of formula (I) and salts thereof:

R0[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)z0]v[CH2CH 0]w-P0-(0H)2 Formula (I); a di-ester corresponding to formula (II) and salts thereof:

{R0[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)z0]v[CH2CH 0]w}2P0-(0H) Formula (II); a tri-ester corresponding to formula (III):

{R0[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)z0]v[CH2CH 0]w}3P0 Formula

(in); and combinations thereof, wherein:

R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; u, v and w, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 60; x, y and z, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 13;

R' represents hydrogen, alkyl, the sum of x+y+z being 0. The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.

In formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic C6-40 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C1-40 alkyl phenyl group, more particularly a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-18 alkyl phenyl group, more preferably a C12-18 alkyl group or alkenyl group or a C6-16 alkyl phenyl group; u, v, w, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from 5 to 15; x, y, z, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.

In general, the lower the number of carbon atoms in the R group of the phosphate esters, the more irritating to the skin and the less soluble in water the phosphate ester becomes. In contrast, the higher the number of carbon atoms in the R group, the milder to the skin and the thicker and more waxy the resultant product becomes. Accordingly, for best results, R should have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in the present invention are PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS SG(R)), Oleth-3 phosphate (CRODAFOS N3 acid), Oleth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS N10 acid), and a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate (CRODAFOS CES) all sold by Croda. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate esters are Cetyl phosphate (Flostaphat CC 100), Stearyl phosphate (Flostaphat CS 120) from Clariant.

In one embodiment, the alkyl(ether)phosphates are chosen from PPG- 5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

Alkylpolyglucosides

The alkyl(poly)glucoside (alkylpolyglycoside) is represented especially by the following general formula:

R10-(R20)t-(G)v wherein:

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e., the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1- 4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Cs/Ci6 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1 ,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

Preferably, use is made of C8/Ci6-alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP. In an embodiment, the alkylpolyglucoside is chosen from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid alkanolamides Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by reacting an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Such surfactants can be chosen from mono- alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C6-C36 fatty acids, and preferably from mono- alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C8-C30 fatty acids or of C8-C24 fatty acids, and may have a C2-3 hydroxyalkyl group. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soya fatty acids diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the fatty acid alkanolaminde is chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (Coco monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, laureth-7, laureth-9, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11-15 pareth-7, PPG-5 ceteth-20, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, glycereth-26, decyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cocamide MIPA, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one nonionic surfactant is present in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, or even more preferably from about 2% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and sub ranges there between.

CATIONIC SURFACTANT

The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Quaternary ammonium salts useful in the invention include, for example:

- quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la): in which: the groups R8 to R11 , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens;

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6)polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkyl(C2-C6)alkylamido, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or secondly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride, which is sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

- imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts having formula (lla): in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to

30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group; R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;

X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. A product of this kind is sold for example under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo.

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts having formula (Ilia): in which:

R16 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a);

R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat® CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat® CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions having the following formula (IVa): in which:

R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=0)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 groups R27; and a hydrogen atom;

R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=0)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 groups R29; and a hydrogen atom;

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from

2 to 6; r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it may be long and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.

The anion X- is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts having formula (IVb) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=0)-; methyl groups, ethyl groups or hydrocarbon-based C14-C22 groups; and a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=0)-; and a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IVb), examples that may be mentioned include salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.

Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetrimonim chloride (cetyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonim chloride (behenyltrimethylammonium salt), behentrimonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention comprise the cationic surfactant in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 16 wt.%, preferably, 1.5 to about 12 wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 10 wt.%, and even more preferably about 2 to about 5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.

THICKENING AGENTS

The hair cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure may further comprise at least one thickening agent. Thickening agents are generally used to modify the viscosity and/or rheology of the hair cosmetic composition. As used herein, the term "thickening agent" means compounds which, by their presence, increase the viscosity of the hair cosmetic composition into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps, such as by at least 50 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. The viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, or the like. The thickening agent may be referred to interchangeably herein as thickener or rheology modifier. Thickening agents are also sometimes referred to as gellifying agents and/or viscosity modifying agents.

In certain embodiments, the thickening agent may be chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics, such as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers, for example, nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphiphilic, or amphoteric polymers, and other known rheology modifiers, such as cellulose-based thickeners.

In certain embodiments, the thickening agents can be an anionic thickening agent. The anionic thickening agents may be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners. As used herein, the term “hydrophilic thickener” is meant to indicate that the thickening agent is soluble or dispersible in water. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic thickeners include homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Versicol F® or Versicol K® by the company Allied Colloid, or under the tradename Ultrahold 8® by the company Ciba-Geigy; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohols such as methylacrylate and dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3) sold under the tradename Viscophobe® DB 1000 from The Dow Chemical Company, those sold under the tradenames Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian, or under the tradename Hispajel by the company Hispano Chimica; and polyacrylic acids of Synthalen® K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Reten® by Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate such as those sold under the tradename Darvan® 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the tradename Hydagen F® by the company Henkel, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of PemulenTM type, associative polymers, for instance PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer such those as sold under the tradename ACULYN™ 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer such as those sold under the tradename Rheolate® FX 1100 by the company Elementis, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term “copolymers” is intended to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as, for example, terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers. The chemical structure of the copolymers comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The expression “hydrophobic unit” or “hydrophobic unit” is understood to mean a radical possessing a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain which comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, as a further example from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and as yet a further example from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. In certain embodiments, the hydrophilic thickener may be chosen from anionic associative polymers. As used herein, the term “associative polymer” is intended to mean any polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.

In certain embodiments, the associative polymers may be chosen from polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit; polymers in which the hydrophilic unit is constituted of an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, such as a vinylcarboxylic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or mixtures thereof; and polymers in which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CM2 = C(R’)CH 2 OBnR (I) in which R’ is chosen from H or CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is a hydrocarbon- based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, or cycloalkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Exemplary and non-limiting polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479, incorporated by reference herein.

In certain embodiments, the associative anionic polymer may be chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C10 C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

In certain embodiments, the at least one thickening agent is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids possessing a,b-ethylenically unsaturated groups or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) possessing ethylenically unsaturated groups and comprising a hydrophobic group. Such copolymers may exhibit emulsifying properties.

As used herein, the term “copolymers” is intended to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as, for example, terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers. The chemical structure of the copolymers comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The expression “hydrophobic unit” or “hydrophobic unit” is understood to mean a radical possessing a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain which comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, as a further example from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and as yet a further example from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

In certain embodiments, the thickening copolymer may be chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:

(1 ) at least one monomer of formula (II):

CH =CH(R1)C00H (II) wherein R1 is chosen from H, Chb, or C2H5, providing acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or ethacrylic acid monomers, and

(2) at least one monomer of (C10 C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (III):

CH2=CH(R 2 )COOR3 (III) wherein R2 is chosen from H, CH3, or C2H5, providing acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units, and R3 denotes a C10 C30 alkyl radical, such as a C12 C22 alkyl radical.

In certain embodiments, the (C10 C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids may be chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate or dodecyl methacrylate, or mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the crosslinked thickening polymer may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: (1) acrylic acid,

(2) an ester of formula (III) described above, in which R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

(3) a crosslinking agent, which is a known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

In various embodiments, the crosslinked thickening polymer may comprise from about 60 % to about 95 % by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from about 4 % to about 40 % by weight of C10 C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from about 0 % to about 6 % by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer. In further embodiments, the crosslinked thickening polymer may comprise from about 96 % to about 98 % by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from about 1 % to about 4 % by weight of C10 C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from about 0.1 % to 0.6 % by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above. In some embodiments, the crosslinked thickening polymer may be chosen from acrylate/Cio C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/Cio-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold under the tradenames Pemulen™ TR1, Pemulen™ TR2, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020 by the company Lubrizol.

The anionic thickening agent may also be known as rheology modifiers such as acrylate- or acrylic-based polymers, carbomers, crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropane-sulfonic acid, and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and/or (Ci-C6)alkyl esters. In an embodiment, the anionic thickening agent is chosen from polyacrylate-3, commercially known under the trade name of Viscophobe DB-100 and sold by The Dow Chemical Company, carbomers, commercially known under the trade name of Carbopol polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, commercially known the trade names of Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer such as Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer by and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc,, AMP- acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, commercially known under the trade name of Fixate G-100 polymer and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc., Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as SepimaxTM Zen by the company Seppic, and a crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, also known as an acrylates copolymer in aqueous dispersion, such as the slightly cross-linked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer known by the INCI name acrylates copolymer and sold by Lubrizol, under the tradename CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 as an aqueous dispersion comprising about 30 percent by weight of total solids or active material.

In various embodiments, the thickening agents may be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, for example cellulose polymers and gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold under the tradename Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Reten® by Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the tradename Hydagen F® by the company Henkel, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) such as those sold under the tradename Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by the company Clariant, crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, e.g. in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those sold under the tradename Sepigel™ 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the tradename Simugel™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of PemulenTM type, associative polymers, for instance PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer such those as sold under the tradename ACULYN™ 46 by the company Rohm & Flaas, steareth-100/PEG-136/FIDI copolymer such as those sold under the tradename Rheolate® FX 1100 by the company Elementis, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the hydrophilic thickener may be chosen from associative polymers. As used herein, the term “associative polymer” is intended to mean any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. As used herein, the term “amphiphilic polymer” means a polymer composed of hydrophilic and hydrophobic parts.

In certain embodiments, the associative polymers may be anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric. In certain embodiments, the associative polymers may be chosen from polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit; polymers in which the hydrophilic unit is constituted of an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, such as a vinylcarboxylic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or mixtures thereof; and polymers in which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CM2 = C(R’)CH 2 OBnR (I) in which R’ is chosen from FI or CFb, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is a hydrocarbon- based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, or cycloalkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Exemplary and non-limiting polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479, incorporated by reference herein.

In other embodiments, the associative cationic polymer may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing amine side groups.

In other embodiments, the non-ionic associative polymer may be chosen from celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethyl celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, e.g. C8-C22 alkyl groups, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups; cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, also known under the tradename Natrosol® Plus (sold by the company Ashland), Bermocoll EHM 100 (sold by the company Berol Nobel), Amercell Polymer HM-1500® sold by the company Amerchol; hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether group, sold by the company Amerchol; celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups; guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, optionally modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain, for example Jaguar® XC- 95/3 (Ci4 alkyl chain, sold by the company Rhodia Chimie), Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain, sold by the company Lamberti), RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain, sold by the company Rhodia Chimie); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, for instance Antaron® or Ganex® V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymers), Antaron® or Ganex® V 220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers) sold by the company I.S.P.; copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates, acrylates or amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; or copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates, acrylates or hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

Associative polyurethanes may also be chosen in various embodiments. As used herein, “associative polyurethanes” are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature, and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences. Associative polyurethanes comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from Ce to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon -based chains optionally being pendent chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic block. For example, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic block. The associative polyurethanes may be arranged in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example, triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and within the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers. In one embodiment, the associative polyurethanes may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.

In other embodiments, associative polymers of the polyurethane polyether type that may be used include the polymer Ci6-OE120-Ci6 from Servo Delden (under the tradename SER AD FX1100), which is a molecule containing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300, OE being an oxyethylene unit; Nuvis® FX 1100 (European and US INCI name "Steareth- 100/PEG-136/FIMDI Copolymer" sold by the company Elementis Specialties); Acrysol RM 184® (sold by the company Rohm and Flaas); Elfacos® T210® (C12-C14 alkyl chain); Elfacos® T212® (C18 alkyl chain) sold by the company Akzo; Rheolate® 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox; RFIEOLATE® 208 or 204, or RFIEOLATE® FX1100 sold by the company Elementis; or DW 1206B sold by the company Rohm & Flaas containing a C20 alkyl chain with a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water.

In further embodiments, solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium, may be chosen. Examples of such polymers include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035, and SER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox. Further examples include the products Aculyn™ 46, DW 1206F, and DW 1206J, Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Flaas, and Borchi® Gel LW 44 from the company Borchers.

In further embodiments, the thickening agent may be chosen from nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the amide type, for example, the polyacrylamide products sold under the tradenames Cyanamer® P250 by the company CYTEC. In further embodiments, the thickening agent chosen from polymers of natural origin may include thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups; biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum (also known as sclerotium gum) or xanthan gum; gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar gum, carob gum, ceratonia siliqua gum or cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum; pectins; alginates; starches; hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkylcelluloses; or carboxy(Ci-C6)alkylcelluloses.

In certain embodiments, the nonionic, unmodified guar gums may be chosen from Guargel D/15 sold by the company Noveon, Vidogum GH 175 sold by the company Unipectine, Meypro-Guar 50 sold by the company Meyhall, or Jaguar® C sold by the company Rhodia Chimie. In other embodiments, the nonionic modified guar gums may be chosen from Jaguar® HP8, HP60, HP120, DC 293 and HP 105 sold by the companies Meyhall and Rhodia Chimie or GalactasolTM 4H4FD2 sold by the company Ashland.

In other embodiments, the thickening agents may be chosen from scleroglucans, for example, Actigum™ CS from Sanofi Bio Industries; Amigel® sold by the company Alban Muller International; xanthan gums, for instance Keltrol®, Keltrol® T, Keltrol® Tf, Keltrol® Bt, Keltrol® Rd, and Keltrol® Cg sold by the company CP Kelco, Rhodicare® S and Rhodicare® H sold by the company Rhodia

Chimie; starch derivatives, for instance Primogel® sold by the company Avebe; hydroxyethylcelluloses such as Cellosize® QP3L, QP4400H, QP30000H,

HEC30000A and Polymer PCG10 sold by the company Amerchol, Natrosol™ 250HHR, 250MR, 250M, 250HHXR, 250HHX, 250HR, and 250 HX, sold by the company Hercules, or Tylose® H1000 sold by the company Hoechst; hydroxypropylcelluloses, for instance KlucelTM EF, H, LHF, MF, and G, sold by the company Ashland; carboxymethylcelluloses, for instance Blanose® 7M8/SF, refined 7M, 7LF, 7MF, 9M31 F, 12M31XP, 12M31 P, 9M31XF, 7H, 7M31, and 7H3SXF, sold by the company Ashland, Aquasorb® A500 sold by the company Hercules, Ambergum® 1221 sold by the company Hercules, Cellogen® HP810A and HP6HS9 sold by the company Montello and Primellose® sold by the company Avebe.

In other embodiments, the modified nonionic guar gums may be modified, for example, with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Such hydroxyalkyl groups may be chosen from hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups.

In certain embodiments, guar gums may be prepared by reacting the corresponding alkylene oxides, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation ratio, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed to the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum, may in certain embodiments range from about 0.4 to about 1.2.

Examples of nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, include those sold under the tradenames Jaguar® HP8, Jaguar® HP60, Jaguar® HP120, Jaguar® DC 293, and Jaguar® HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and under the tradename Galactasol™ 4H4FD2 by the company Ashland.

In other embodiments, the guar gum may be chosen from those modified with a quaternary ammonium group, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, also sold under the tradename Jaguar® C-13S by the company Rhodia Chimie.

In other embodiments, the ceulloses may be chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses, such as those sold under the tradenames KlucelTM EF, KlucelTM H, KlucelTM LHF, KlucelTM MF, KlucelTM G, by the company Ashland and under the tradename CellosizeTM PCG-10 by the company Amerchol.

In other embodiments, non-limiting thickening polysaccharides may be chosen from glucans; modified or unmodified starches such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as golden pea, or tubers such as potato or cassava; amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses or derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids or pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gums arabic, gums tragacanth, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives such as hydroxypropylguar, or mixtures thereof.

In other embodiments, the thickening agent may be chosen from silicas or hydrophobic silicas, such as those described in EP-A-898960, incorporated by reference herein. Examples of such silicas include those sold under the tradename Aerosil® R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL® TS-530, CAB-O-SIL® TS-610, CAB-O-SIL® TS-720 by the company Cabot, or Aerosil® R972 and Aerosil® R974 by the company Degussa; clays, such as montmorillonite; modified clays such as the bentones, for example, stearalkonium hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite; or polysaccharide alkyl ethers, optionally with the alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, such as those described in document EP-A-898958, incorporated by reference herein.

In certain embodiments, when an anionic thickening agent is used, it is generally neutralized before being included in, or as it is added to the hair cosmetic compositions of the disclosure. Such an anionic thickening agent may be neutralized by employing traditional neutralizing agents such as alkanolamines, for example, monoethanolamine and diethanolamine; aminomethyl propanol; basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine; or ammonium compounds and their salts. The anionic thickening agent may also be neutralized by a latex polyurethane polymer having at least one free amino group.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is selected from cellulose polymers, gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate, glucans, modified or unmodified starches, silicas, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the thickening agent in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises a starch derivative chosen from the compounds of the following formulae:

R' R

CH — CH-COOM

CH — CH-COOM

FT R (I) COOM R

CH — CH-COOM

/

St-0-(CH 2) -N

\

R" (ID in which formulae:

St-0 represents a starch molecule,

R, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R’, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,

M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K or Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,

R” represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

The starch molecules may be derived from any plant sources of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. The starch hydrolysates mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

The starches of formula (I) or (II) are used in particular. Starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, i.e. the starches of formula (I) or (II) in which R, R’ and R” represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2, are used more preferentially.

A preferred starch derivative is known under the INCI name potato starch modified sold under the tradename STRUCTURE® SOLANACE by AkzoNobel.

The starch derivative may be present in the hair cosmetic compositions of the invention in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, and most preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gums, acrylate/Cio C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers, carbomers, polyacrylates, potato starch modified, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, potato starch modified and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent comprises xanthan gum and sclerotium gum.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent including xanthan gum in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent including sclerotium gum in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickening agent is present in a total amount of from about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. In some instances, the total amount of the at least one thickening agent is about 0.05 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.05 to about 1 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1.5 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 1 .4 wt.%, about 0.25 wt.% to about 1.3 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 1.0 wt.%, or about 0.3 to about 0.8 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

NEUTRALIZING AGENTS

The hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one neutralizing agent wherein the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof,

Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched C-i-Cs alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.

Organic amines may also be selected cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.

The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.

Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be mentioned include but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (aminomethyl propanol), and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Other examples include but are not limited to: 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3- diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1 ,2,4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present disclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that may be used in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.

The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that may be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives. Neutralizing agents may also be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

According to at least one embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids. Thus, in some embodiments, the at least one amino acid of the present disclosure may serve as the neutralizing agent in the compositions of the present disclosure.

As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used may be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic form.

Further as non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, ornithine, citrulline, and valine. In one embodiment, the at least one amino acid of the present disclosure includes one or more of arginine, serine, cysteine, glutamic acid and derivatives of amino acids such as glutaric acid which also serve as the neutralizing agent in the hair cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure.

The at least neutralizing agent may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, more preferably from

0.3% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.

AUXILIARY INGREDIENTS The hair cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration, selected, for example, from conditioning agents, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, salts, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof. It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the hair cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one chelating agent. Preferred ranges of chelating agent are from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight of each composition. Preferred chelating agents are EDTA, HEDTA, and sodium or potassium salts, and mixtures, thereof. Q

The pH of the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention may range from less than 7, or from about pH 3 to about 7, or from about pH 3 to about 6, or from about pH 3 to about 5.2, such as from about pH 3 to about 5, or preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.8, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4.5, or even more preferably from about pH 3.5 to about 4.5, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.

The desired pH may be obtained by using one or more of the neutralizing agents described above.

WATER The hair cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais- les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene. Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 65% to about 95% by weight, and most preferably from about 70% to about 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.

METHODS/PROCESSES OF TREATING THE HAIR

In one embodiment, the process for altering the shape and the color of the hair with the hair cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises the steps of: a) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; b) rinsing the hair; c) applying the hair shaping or altering composition at least once onto the hair; d) pausing for a period of time such as from about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, or 30 minutes; e) drying (up to 100% dried), while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; f) applying a flat iron to the hair, preferably set to a temperature ranging from about 100°C to about 250°C or from about 110°C to about 230°C or from about 110°C to about 210°C or from about 120°C to about 200°C or from about 150°C to about 190°C, or from about 190°C to about 230°C, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, or at a temperature of about 230°C or about 225°C or about 220°C or about 210°C or about 200°C or about 190°C or about 180°C or about 150°C or about 100°C and preferably at about 230°C ; g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair wherein the oxidizing agent is preferably selected from peroxide compounds such as hydrogen peroxide; h) rinsing the hair.

In one embodiment, the steps c) to g) can be repeated in a period of several weeks.

In various embodiments of the invention, the period of several weeks is about 2 weeks or 15 days or about 2.5 weeks, or about 3 weeks.

In an embodiment of the invention, the period of several weeks is 2 weeks or 15 days.

The smoothing action may be conducted by brushing or combing or passing the fingers through the hair.

Drying the hair at a temperature ranging from room temperature up to about 200 Q C may be accomplished by drying the hair with blow dryer device or using other heat sources such as a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heat lamp, a heat wand, or other similar devices.

When the method above comprises step e), the flat iron may be employed at a temperature of about 100 Q C, or ranging from about 100°C to about 250°C or from about 110°C to about 230°C or from about 110°C to about 210°C or from about 120°C to about 200°C or from about 150°C to about 190°C, or from about 190°C to about 230°C, including ranges and sub-ranges there between, or at a temperature of about 230°C or about 225°C or about 220°C or about 210°C or about 200°C or about 190°C or about 180°C or about 150°C or about 100°C and preferably at about 230°C.

In various embodiments, the flat iron is passed over the hair at least 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 times or more, for example, up to 20, 30, 40, 50, 75, or 100 times. In various embodiments, the neutralizing composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 1 hour; about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or about 10 minutes.

The hair treatment composition can be applied onto the hair using an applicator device or with the hands or gloved hands or with the fingers. A suitable applicator device is an applicator brush or applicator comb or applicator spatula or a dispenser or applicator tip attached to the container holding the composition.

The method/process in accordance with the present disclosure may be followed by or be preceded by the use of rinse-off compositions for cleansing and/or conditioning hair, such as a shampoo or conditioner. The cosmetic effects imparted by the hair cosmetic compositions and accompanying methods of treating the hair of the present disclosure may be evaluated by visually assessing the appearance of the hair after processing the hair according to the methods of the disclosure. Another type of evaluation can also involve sensorial evaluations of the hair. EXAMPLES

The following Examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only, with the scope of the invention being defined by the claims. An example of comparative composition is as Ex. 1 and compositions according to the present invention are as Ex. 2 to 10. The ingredient amounts in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula. EXAMPLE 1 : Compositions

EXAMPLE 1 A

INVENTIVE COMPOSITIONS EXAMPLE 2

An in vivo test was carried out on the hair of human volunteers in order to compare the integrity performance on selected sections of the hair as follows:

1) contacting hair with the inventive formula of Ex. 2 + bleaching the hair; 2) contacting hair with the comparative formula of Ex. 1 + bleaching the hair; and

3) contacting hair with bleach alone.

The volunteers were 12 women, with bleached hair /medium to high degree of damage. The formulas and bleach treatment were applied on 3 separate swatches or bundles of hair from root to end that were selected from the middle back part of the head of each volunteer.

A hair swatch that was not treated with any formula (only with bleach) was used as a control.

During the test, the volunteers made four visits to the lab: 1 st Bleach + 2 nd TLA + 3 rd TLA + 4 th Bleach. The bleaching hair treatment protocol (1 st and 4 th visits) were comprised by:

(1) applying a neutral shampoo to the hair swatches;

(2) Mixing bleach powder + 40 volume developer containing an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide) (1 :1.5 ratio);

(4) applying the bleach-developer mixture to the hair;

(5) waiting for about 50 minutes (pause time) (on foil)

(6) completely rinsing the hair;

(7) removing the excess water with a towel.

The TLA hair treatment protocol (2 nd and 3 rd visits) were comprised by: a) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; b) rinsing the hair; c) applying the hair straightening composition at least once onto the hair; d) pausing for about 30 minutes; e) blow drying (100% dried) f) applying a flat iron to the hair (210°C - 230°C); g) applying a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent to the hair; h) rinsing the hair. The observed results during the test are as follows:

2 nd visit: Ex.1 showed higher level of damage after the 1 st application, wherein few cases of swatch’s retraction during the waiting time of neutralization were observed. 3 rd visit: on 2 nd application more cases of retraction with Ex. 1 and few cases with Ex. 3 (sparse cases in a very high level of damage hair).

4 th visit: Ex. 1 still presented a lower level of damaged and damage from the roots in most of volunteers. Ex. 2 showed more damage on the ends with less cases of breakage.

As a conclusion, it can be verified that even at lower amounts of TLA, when TLA is combined with amino acid and the amphoteric surfactant, the invention still performed very well with altering the shape of hair, i.e., straightening the hair while at the same time, provided better integrity to the hair (less breakage).

Additionally, the compositions with lower amounts of TLA (Ex. 2) presented lower damaged starting from the roots, when compared with compositions comprising greater amounts of TLA (Ex. 1).

EXAMPLE 3

In order to demonstrate the mechanical properties of the hair that was treated with the hair cosmetic composition of Ex. 1 and Ex. 2, tensile tests were carried out using a Dia-stron Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT) that is able to test up to 100 samples automatically in dry or damp conditions. The tensile force is measured during elongation up to breakage for each fiber and is then standardized according to the sample’s dimensions in order to calculate strain.

Analysis of the strain/deformation curves makes it possible to determine the following principal parameters:

Young’s modulus E, which characterises the stiffness of the material in the zone of elasticity (slope of the tangent at the origin according to Hooke’s law for elastic materials);

strain at 15% deformation s 15%: strain measured in the plastic deformation phase (irreversible deformation of the material);

strain at 25% deformation s 25%: strain measured at the post-plastic plateau threshold;

strain and deformation upon breakage s breakage and e breakage: strain and deformation upon breakage of the hair (the higher the strain, the more the hair is "resistant" to breakage).

Particularly, to perform the test, the equipments used were the Dia- stron extensometer, MTT type model, the Fibre cross-section measurement device, and the Dia-Stron FDAS765. The tensile test were carried out in dry or damp conditions.

Dry tensile test: Measurements are carried out in a humidity controlled environment either in a regulated glove box or air-conditioned room. The conditions generally applied are approximately 24°C - 50%RH (they can be adjusted according to test requirements). The specimens to be analyzed must be kept in stable conditions at least overnight before carrying out the measurements.

Damp tensile test: Measurements are carried out in water. The specimens are therefore immersed in distilled water at least half an hour prior to measurement and during measurement. For this test, the humidity is not a factor.

As a conclusion, it was observed that the hair fibers treated with the composition of Ex. 2 presents better resistance to elastic deformation than the hair fibers treated with the composition of Ex. 1.

Additionally, the composition of Ex. 2 composition showed a lower impact in the integrity of the hair fibers compared to the composition of Ex. 1.

The terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

The terms “a” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular. The compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. Furthermore, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” is interchangeable with the expression “one or more” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term “active material” as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the item in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, a “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.

The term “hair care” or “hair cosmetic” are interchangeable with the term “hair treatment” for purposes of the instant disclosure.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular. Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.” Throughout the disclosure, the term “a mixture thereof is used, following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.” The term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of

A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A,

B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included. The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.

The expression "inclusive" for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range are included in the defined interval.

All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions (nanoemulsions) of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap.

In such cases where overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two components that overlap), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid may be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve as only the nonionic surfactant or as only the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound).

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.