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Title:
METHOD FOR FAST DETERMINING OXIDATIVE HAIR DAMAGE OF SAID HAIR SAMPLES WITHOUT DESTRUCTION
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2020/125924
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
Method (100) for determining oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair comprising: -a step (101) of emitting mid-infrared light collecting a background spectrum under said mid-infrared light; and -a step (102) of fixing the hair samples; and -a step (103) of emitting mid-infrared light and collecting a spectrum of the hair sample under said mid-infrared light; The method further comprises: -a step (104) of adjusting the spectrum baselineat zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths and fixing the intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength at a reference value, to obtain a normalized value of the infra-redspectrum; and -a step (105) of processing said normalized value in order to obtain an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.

Inventors:
ZHANG DAIJIAZI (FR)
Application Number:
PCT/EP2018/085202
Publication Date:
June 25, 2020
Filing Date:
December 17, 2018
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
OREAL (FR)
International Classes:
A61B5/00; A45D44/00; A61B5/103
Domestic Patent References:
WO2018007354A12018-01-11
Foreign References:
DE102016212202A12018-01-11
EP1370224A12003-12-17
US20060281994A12006-12-14
US20090274642A12009-11-05
US20140216492A12014-08-07
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
CASALONGA, Axel et al. (FR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1 . Method ( 100) for determining oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair comprising:

- a step ( 101 ) of emitting mid-infrared light collecting a background spectrum without fixing the hair samples under said mid- infrared light;

- a step ( 102) of fixing the hair samples with adequate pressure; and

- a step ( 103) of emitting mid-infrared light and collecting a spectrum of the hair sample under said mid-infrared light;

characterized in that the method further comprises :

- a step ( 104) of adjusting the spectrum baseline at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths and fixing the intensity o f the signal at said specific wavelength at a reference value, to obtain a normalized value of the infra-red spectrum; and

- a step ( 105) of processing said normalized value in order to obtain an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.

2. Method ( 100) according to claim 1 , comprising a step ( 106) of comparing said numerical value with a threshold to determine the oxidative damage of the hair sample.

3. Method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair sample is fixed on the infrared probe surface using a fixing device adapted for all types of untreated and treated hairs.

4. Method ( 100) according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the light used has a wavenumber in a range of 4000cm 1 to 700cm 1.

5. Method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the spectrum of the hair sample is collected at the most end point of the hairs from the hair scalp of the user.

6. Method according to claim 5 , wherein the spectrum of the hair sample is collected at 10cm to 15cm from hair scalp of the user. 7. Method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said method repeat one to ten times, for example six times said measurements.

8. Method ( 100) according to any of the preceding claims, comprising a step ( 107) of displaying the result of the oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample on a display means.

9. Method according to claim 8, wherein the result displayed is in the form of “yes” or “no”, “yes” meaning that product(s) may be applied on said hair, at least 1 more time and“no” meaning that the hair is too much damaged and it is preferably not to apply certain product(s) on said hair.

10. Method according to claim 8, wherein the result displayed is shown with colors,“red” when the hair is too much damaged and“green” if the hair is not too much damaged.

1 1 . Method according to claim 8, wherein the result displayed is only the numerical value presented in terms of cysteic acid.

12. Method according to claim 8, wherein the result displayed is the products to be applied on the hair.

13. Method ( 100) according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the method is configured for determining oxidative hair damage on treated or untreated hair.

14. System ( 10) for determining oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair comprising an acquisition module ( 12) for emitting mid-infrared light and collecting a background spectrum under said mid-infrared light; and a spectrum of the hair sample under said mid-infrared light; a communication unit ( 14), an analysis module ( 16) and a display device ( 18), characterized in that the analysis module ( 16) is configured to adjust the spectrum baseline at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths, fixing the intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength at a reference value, to obtain a normalized value of the infra-red spectrum; and processing said normalized value in order to obtain an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.

Description:
Method for fast determining oxidative hair damage of said hair samples without destruction The present invention relates to the field of hair damage evaluation, in particular for the purpose of determining user specific hair cosmetic products or hair treatment.

The term "cosmetic product" is understood, in particular within the meaning of the present invention, to mean a product as defined in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products.

The number and specificity of cosmetic products, and in particular of hair products, on the market is continuously increasing. Given the diversity of existing hair products, it is preferable to determine the state of the hair quality and to provide the relevant cosmetic product suggestion in terms of hair products used. Hair products include, for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc.

In order to determine which hair products to apply according to the individual user, there is a known practice to make use of questionnaires that are answered by users.

In this regard, reference could be made to document US-A1 - 2014/0216492, which describes a method for determining the state of the hair quality and a diagnostic system for prescribing a cosmetic hair product which is personalized according to information obtained by means of a questionnaire. However, the analysis of these questionnaires is particularly laborious and relatively subjective.

Reference could also be made to document WO2018007354, which describes a method for determining a user-specific hair treatment.

However, the method described does not give an accurate numerical result of hair damage state.

The aim of the invention is to improve, in terms of results accuracy and methods for determining hair damage, notably hair oxidative damage in view of determining hair product(s) may be applied on said hair.

According to the invention, there is a provided method for determining oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair comprising:

- a step of collecting a background spectrum without hair sample is fixed under a mid-infrared light;

- a step of fixing the hair sample with adequate pressure on the IR probe surface using a fixing device; and

- a step of emitting mid-infrared light and collecting a clean and not noisy spectrum of a hair sample under said mid-infrared light.

The hair product may be a cosmetic product, for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc, that is intended to be applied, for example, to the hair of the user.

Oxidative hair damage is generally due to UV exposure, or the chemical treatments, such as: hair coloration, hair bleach, hair perm, etc.

The damage process can be caused by a degradation of amino acids, for example cystine, tryptophan, methionine, tyrosine, histidine or lysine. The deterioration of cystine can destroy the mechanical stability of the hair and even lead to a complete and irreversible hair breakage. Generally speaking, the decrease of cystine well correlates to the increase of cysteic acid, thus cysteic acid is the oxidative marker for the hair damage.

The terms “keratin fiber” and “hair” comprises furs, wool, feathers, and especially human hair.

Mid-infrared spectroscopy allows direct, non-destructive determination of oxidation product content of an amino acid and can be performed directly on keratin fibers located on the user’s head. Mid- Infrared spectroscopy uses infrared radiation to excite the amino acid molecules and generates an infrared spectrum of the energy absorbed by these molecules as a function of the wavenumber in a range of 4000 to 700cm- l .

The adequate pressure ranges above lkg/mm 2 .

The method further comprises:

- a step of adjusting the spectrum baseline at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths without interest of the data manipulation and fixing the intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength at a reference value to obtain a normalized value of the Infra-red spectrum, which allows to eliminate the variability of the signal during acquisition of the spectrum; and

- a step of processing said normalized value in order to obtain an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.

The method for converting the normalized spectrum value into a numerical value of cysteic acid may be based on the combination of first and second derivatives at mid-infrared range and comprises a correlation equation using known high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method data.

Advantageously, the method comprises a step of comparing said numerical value with a threshold to determine the oxidative damage o f the hair sample.

For example, the light used has a wavelength in a range of 4000 - 700cm 1 .

The spectrum o f the hair sample is advantageously collected at the most end point of the hairs from the hair scalp of the user, for example 10cm to 15cm.

The method may for example repeat one to ten times, for example six times, said measurements, to determine a reliable oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample.

Advantageously, the method further comprises a step o f displaying the result of the oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample on a display means. The result displayed may be in the form of“yes” or“no”,“yes” meaning that product(s) may be applied on said hair, at least 1 more time and “no” meaning that the hair is too much damaged and it is preferably not to apply certain product(s) on said hair, but some products still could be recommended.

The result displayed may be shown with colors,“red” when the hair is too much damaged and “green” if the hair is not too much damaged. Other forms of showing the result are possible, such as the numerical value simply presented in terms of cysteic acid.

The result displayed may also be the products to be applied on the hair.

The method may be configured for determining oxidative hair damage on treated or untreated hair.

According to another aspect, the invention concerns a system for determining oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair comprising an acquisition module for emitting mid-infrared light and collecting a background spectrum under said mid-infrared light; and a spectrum of the hair sample under said mid-infrared light; a communication unit, an analysis module and a display device.

The analysis module is configured to adjust the spectrum baseline at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths, fixing the intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength at a reference value, to obtain a normalized value of the infra-red spectrum; and processing said normalized value in order to obtain an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.

Further aims, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from reading the following description, which is given only by way of non-limiting example and with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

[FIG 1 ] is a schematic view of a system for determining hair damage according to an embodiment of the invention; [FIG 2] is a flowchart illustrating the steps of a method for determining hair oxidative damage of the hair sample according to an embodiment of the invention.

A system 10 for determining hair damage, and notably oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair is illustrated on Figure 1 .

The hair product may be a cosmetic product, for example, hair coloration, natural coloration, hair color make-up, hair bleach, hair perm, hair relaxer, hair care products: shampoos, conditioners, hair mask, etc, that is intended to be applied, for example, to the hair of the user.

Oxidative hair damage is generally due to UV exposure, or the chemical treatments, such as: hair coloration, hair bleach, hair perm, etc.

The damage process can be caused by a degradation of amino acids, for example cystine, tryptophan, methionine, tyrosine, histidine or lysine. The deterioration of cystine can destroy the mechanical stability of the hair and even lead to a complete and irreversible hair breakage. Generally speaking, the decrease of cystine well correlates to the increase of cysteic acid, thus cysteic acid is the oxidative marker for the hair damage.

The terms “keratin fiber” and “hair” comprises furs, wool, feathers, and especially human hair.

Said system 10 comprises an acquisition module 12 for collecting a spectrum under a mid-infrared light, a communication unit 14, an analysis module 16 and a display device 18. The communication unit 14 is capable of transmitting the collected spectrum taken by the acquisition module 12 to the analysis module 16 and to the display device 18. The display device 18 may be, for example, a tablet, a computer or any other display means such as, a mobile phone, a screen.

Mid-infrared spectroscopy allows direct, non-destructive determination of oxidation product content of an amino acid and can be performed directly on keratin fibers located on the user’s head. Mid- Infrared spectroscopy uses infrared radiation to excite the amino acid molecules and generates an infrared spectrum of the energy absorbed by these molecules as a function of the wavenumber in a range of 4000 to 700cm- l .

The analysis module 16 is configured to adjust the spectrum baseline at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths without interest of the data manipulation. The intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength is fixed at a reference value, thus the IR spectrum is reprocessed to be normalized, which allows to eliminate the variability during acquisition of the spectrum.

The normalized spectrum value is then processed in order to give an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.

The method for converting the normalized spectrum value into a numerical value of cysteic acid is based on the combination of first and second derivatives at mid-infrared range and comprises a correlation equation using known high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method data.

The system 10 is configured to repeat one to ten times, for example six times said measurements and to determine a reliable oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample. The analysis module 16 is configured to transmit to the display device 18 the result of the oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample, which displays on the display means, if the hair is capable of receiving a hair product, and what kinds of the cosmetic hair products can be applied.

Figure 2 is a flowchart illustrating the main steps of a method 100 for determining hair damage, and notably oxidative hair damage in view of determining if hair product(s) may be applied on said hair using the system 10 illustrated on Figure 1 .

The method 100 comprises a first step 101 of collecting a background spectrum under a mid-infrared light. Background spectrum means that no hair sample is hold by a holding device 20. The method 100 further comprises a step 102 of fixing a hair sample with adequate pressure on the IR probe surface using a holding device 20. For example, at 10cm to 15cm from the hair scalp of the user.

At a step 103 , mid-infrared light is emitted and the spectrum of the hair sample under said mid-infrared light is collected. Mid-infrared spectroscopy allows direct, non-destructive determination of oxidation product content of an amino acid and can be performed directly on keratin fibers located on the user’s head. Mid-Infrared spectroscopy uses infrared radiation to excite the amino acid molecules and generates an infrared spectrum of the energy absorbed by these molecules as a function of the wavenumber in a range of 4000 to 700cm- l .

At step 104, the hair sample spectrum is adjusted at zero absorbance on the selected wavelengths without interest of the data manipulation. The intensity of the signal at said specific wavelength is fixed at a reference value, thus the IR spectrum is reprocessed to be normalized, which allows to eliminate the variability during acquisition of the spectrum.

At step 105 , the normalized spectrum value is then processed in order to give an automatically converted numerical value of cysteic acid, which corresponds to the oxidative marker for hairs.

The method for converting the normalized spectrum value into a numerical value of cysteic acid is based on the combination of first and second derivatives at mid-infrared range and comprises a correlation equation using known high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method data.

At step 106, said numerical value is compared with a defined threshold value to determine the oxidative damage of the hair sample and to suggest the following cosmetic hair products applied on the head.

Finally, at step 107, the result of the oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample is displayed on the display means.

The result displayed may be in the form of“yes” or“no”,“yes” meaning that product(s) may be applied on said hair, at least 1 more time and “no” meaning that the hair is too much damaged and it is preferably not to apply certain product(s) on said hair, but some products still could be recommended.

The result displayed may be shown with colors,“red” when the hair is too much damaged and “green” if the hair is not too much damaged. Other forms of showing the result are possible, but if the value presented in the numeral value of cysteic acid, the comparison step 106 is optional.

The method 100 may repeat one to ten times, for example six times said measurements and to determine a reliable oxidative damage diagnostic of the hair sample.

The method according to the invention allows to easily and accurately determine the level of oxidation product of an amino acid in the hair sample and obtain a matched hair treatment instruction.