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Title:
METHOD FOR THE TREATMENT OF TISSUE GARMENTS, AND GARMENTS OBTAINED WITH SAID METHOD
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2004/040056
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
The method for treating tissue garments, and more particularly those made of 'denim' tissue, applies to so-called 'rough' garments, that is to garments not yet treated with traditional finishing treatments. First of all, a mixture comprising an aqueous solution of a polymeriseable resin and a mixture of textile softeners, comprising a silicone-based softener and a polyethylene-based softener is applied to the outer garment surface. A series of tri-dimensional plies is then formed on the above garments, substantially parallel one to each other, at garment portions which are naturally subject to folding subsequently to a long time use. A first heat treatment is then performed on the garment, at a temperature less than the polymerising temperature of the above resin, until the garment dries. A second heat treatment is subsequently performed on the garment, at a temperature not lower than the polymerising temperature of said resin, until this latter has completely polymerised.

Inventors:
MORANI MARIO (IT)
PIGNOTTI PAOLO (IT)
Application Number:
PCT/IB2003/004859
Publication Date:
May 13, 2004
Filing Date:
October 29, 2003
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
DAMAP S R L (IT)
MORANI MARIO (IT)
PIGNOTTI PAOLO (IT)
International Classes:
D06J1/12; D06M15/227; D06M15/263; D06M15/564; D06M15/643; D06M15/70; D06M15/71; D06M23/14; (IPC1-7): D06M23/14; D06J1/12; D06M15/263; D06M15/564; D06Q1/00
Foreign References:
GB1372445A1974-10-30
DE1948606A11970-04-23
GB951543A1964-03-04
DE3835189A11990-04-19
US2817468A1957-12-24
EP0924332A11999-06-23
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
Dall'olio, Giancarlo (Via delle Armi 1, Bologna, IT)
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Claims:
CLAIMS
1. Method for the treatment of tissue garments, characterised in that it comprises the following operating phases: applying, to the outer surface of said tissue garments, already made up and still sized, an aqueous solution comprising a mixture of polymeriseable resin and at least one textile softener; making on said garments a series of tridimensional plies, at least on portions of said garments normally subject to plies forming by consequence of a long time use; performing a first heat treatment on said garments, at a first drying temperature lower that the polymerising temperature of said resin, until said garments have been dried; performing a second heat treatment on said garments, at a temperature not lower than the polymerising temperature of said resin, until this latter has completely polymerised.
2. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that said mixture of polimeriseable resin comprises a resin having a stabilizing effect on the garment tissue.
3. Method according to claim 2, characterised in that the concentration of said polymeriseable resin in said aqueous solution is comprised between 5% and 50% by weight.
4. Method according to claim 3, characterised in that the concentration of said polymeriseable resin in said aqueous solution is preferably 22% by weight.
5. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that in said aqueous solution, said textile softener comprises at least one silicone based softener.
6. Method according to claim 5, characterised in that the concentration of said silicone based textile softener in said aqueous solution is comprised between 2% and 20% by weight.
7. Method according to claim 5, characterised in that the concentration of said silicone based textile softener in said aqueous solution is preferably 6% by weight.
8. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that, in said aqueous solution, said textile softener comprises at least one polyethylene based softener.
9. Method according to claim 8, characterised in that the concentration of said polyethylene based textile softener in said aqueous solution is comprised between 2% and 20% by weight.
10. Method according to claim 8, characterised in that the concentration of said polyethylene based textile softener in said aqueous solution is preferably 6% by weight.
11. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that, in said aqueous solution, said textile softener comprises a mixture of at least one silicone based softener and at least one polyethylene based softener.
12. Method according to claim 11, characterised in that the concentration of said silicone based textile softener in said aqueous solution is comprised between 2% and 20% by weight, and the concentration of said polyethylene based textile softener in said aqueous solution is comprised between 2% and 20% by weight.
13. Method according to claim 11, characterised in that the concentration of said silicone based textile softener in said aqueous solution is preferably 6% by weight, and the concentration of said polyethylene based textile softener in said aqueous solution is preferably 6% by weight.
14. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that said mixture of polymeriseable resin moreover comprises at least one acrylic resin having a protective action on the garment tissue.
15. Method according to claim 14, characterised in that the concentration of said acrylic resin is comprised between 5% and 50% by weight.
16. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that said second heat treatment is performed by conveying said garments through a continuous kiln, for predefined periods of time.
17. Method according to claim 16, characterised in that said garments are given a double transit through said continuous kiln, the first transit being done with the garments resting on their back side, and the second transit being done with the garments resting on their front side.
18. Method according to claim 17, characterised in that, for each one of the garment sides, a double transit through said continuous kiln is done, a transit on one garment side being alternated with a transit on the other garment side.
19. Method according to any one of the claims from 1 to 18, characterised in that at least one further traditional finishing process is performed on said garments, subsequently to said second heat treatment.
20. Method according to claim 19, characterised in that said further finishing process comprises a garment scratching operation, at least on selected garment portions.
21. Method according to claim 19, characterised in that said further finishing process comprises a garment decolouring operation, by means of oxidising products.
22. Method according to claim 19, characterised in that said further finishing process comprises a garment washing operation with water.
23. Tissue garment, characterised in that there are made thereon groups of permanent, tridimensional plies, made side by side, in a socalled"accordion" arrangement, located at garment positions where they would naturally appear by consequence of a long time use of said garment, and further permanent, tridimensional plies, casually arranged on the whole garments surface.
24. Tissue garment according to claim 23, characterised in that it comprises at least a polymeriseable resin having a stabilising effect, thereof, and at least one textile softener, applied to the whole surface when said permanent, tridimensional plies have been made.
25. Tissue garment according to claim 23, characterised in that it moreover comprises a series of decoloured areas at the exposed portions of said plies.
26. Tissue garment according to claim 23, characterised in that it moreover comprises groups of decoloured, elongated areas, the areas of each group being parallel one each other, fit to simulate on said garment corresponding scratching lines, as they would occur after rubbing the same garment during washing with a brush.
27. Tissue garment according to claim 23, characterised in that it moreover comprises areas having colours different from the garment's original colour.
Description:
METHOD FOR THE TREATMENT OF TISSUE GARMENTS, AND GARMENTS OBTAINED WITH SAID METHOD TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention fits into the technical sector relating to the production of garments made of tissue.

More particularly, the present invention relates to a new method for processing of tissue garments, aimed to give the same tissue a unique structure and texture.

As far as the method according to this invention directly applies to most of the tissue, it is particularly suitable for garments made of"denim"tissue. By way of a not limiting example, in the following reference will be expressly made to said kind of tissue.

DESCRIPTION OF THE KNOWN ART It is known that the tissue called"denim", which is also known in the non- specialised environments as"jeans tissue", is widely used in the dressing industry, mostly for making trousers, jackets, shirts and so on. This tissue can be originally made of different weight and texture, and it is often coloured with a typical blue colour well know as"denim blue".

The most part of the above garments, after they have been made up, are subjected to the so called"finishing"processes, fit to give them an aesthetic appearance, a texture and a structure, which can make them unique and different from those which have been subjected to a different process. This appearance is commonly known as the"garment image".

Since many years almost all the garment manufacturers have created various images for their products, starting from a simple tissue fading of some garment portions, up to finish them with stains, tears or various kinds of pleats.

Generally, a great success have the garment images which give the garment a "rugged life"appearance, that is of a garment which has been worn for a long time, and which has been repeatedly washed.

In order to obtain said garment images, a wide variety of finishing processes have been developed. So, garments have been finished by washing them with water

containing abrasive materials, e. g. pumice-stone particles, by applying them acid or caustic substances, by heat treating them and so on.

A garment image which has been particularly appreciated since some years ago comprises a colour fading process made on the most wear-subject portions of a garment (e. g. for trousers, the positions corresponding to gluteus and knees), and forming a series of plies extending horizontally in those portions of garments which are naturally subject to ply when worn. In the case of trousers, said plies are made in the front side at the base of legs, and in the back side behind the knee.

The above plies can be bidimensional, and obtained by de-colouring bands of tissue alternating them with coloured bands, or made in a tridimensional way, as they are formed by consequence of wearing the garment for a long time. This latter image is greatly appreciated.

A problem arising with making said tridimensional plies is that they are not permanent. In fact, like the plies made by a normal use of a garment disappear after the same garment has been washed, the artificial tridimensional plies obtained with conventional processes also fade after the first washing, and disappear after four or five washing procedures.

In a known method for forming tridimensional plies a solution of water and a polyurethane resin is applied to selected portions of a garment after it has been treated with the conventional finish processes (e. g. colour fading, stone washing with pumice-stone, and so on). The garment is then heat-treated, in order to allow the polyurethane resin to polymerise, and subsequently dried.

The so obtained garment image carries the aforesaid drawback of a scarce persistency of the tridimensional plies. Moreover, its appearance is not natural at all, because there are well shaped plies only at the garment portions where the resin has been applied, the rest of the garment being absolutely flat.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for processing of tissue garments which is able to obtain a garment image comprising tridimensional plies having a high persistency.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a method which allows the aforesaid tridimensional plies to have a colour fading effect identical to a colour

fading obtained with a continuous wearing of said garments.

A further object is to obtain tridimensional, permanent plies preferably located at those garment portions wherein plies are normally formed subsequently to the garment use, but also located at casual locations in the garment.

Another object is to provide tissue garments having the above tridimensional, permanent plies.

The aforesaid objects are entirely obtained, according to the contents of the following Claims, by a method for processing of tissue garments comprising the following operating phases: applying, to the outer surface of a sized garment, a mixture comprising water, a polymeriseable stiffening resin and at least one textile softener; making a series of tridimensional plies, at least at those garment portions which are naturally subject to forming of plies subsequently to a continuous use; subjecting said garment to a first heat treatment, at a temperature lower than the resin polymerisation temperature, until the garment comes dried; subsequently subjecting said garment to a second heat treatment, at a temperature at least equal to the resin polymerisation temperature, until the complete resin polymerisation.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The characteristic features of the present invention, as they will appear from the subsequent Claims, will be now disclosed in the following detailed description of a method for treating tissue garments.

The finishing method is aimed to obtain, in the treated garments, an image of a garment which has been used for a long time, therefore provided with a series of tridimensional plies located at garment portions wherein they would naturally form subsequently to said use, and furthermore provided with more tridimensional plies casually located at the remaining garment portions.

More particularly, but not exclusively, the present method is suitable for treating garments made of"denim"tissue, as trousers (jeans), jackets and shirts, subsequently to their make up and before the traditional finishing processes.

The make up processes for said garments normally comprise a sizing process. A gluing product (size) is applied, with known techniques, to the garments tissue, or to the yarn before the weaving process. When dried, the size makes the tissue stiffer. In such a way it can be sewn without incurring in abnormal plies around the sewing

lines, which could compromise the product quality.

Nevertheless, the size is normally removed by the first washing of the garment.

Therefore, the stiffness of the"rough"garment is lost during the conventional finishing processes.

Instead, for the present finishing method, it is important that the size has been not yet removed.

The present method comprises a series of operating phases, to be performed sequentially.

In the first of said operating phases, an aqueous solution of a polimeryseable resin, having a stabilizing effect on the tissue, and of a textile softener is applied on the whole outer garment surface. The solution can be applied with a wide variety of known techniques, e. g. by soaking, spraying or applying with a brush. In the aqueous solution is moreover preferably included a further kind of resin, of an acrylic type, fit to protect the garment during all the subsequent finishing treatments involving a tissue rubbing or scratching.

The main function of the stabilizing resin is to make the tissue capable to hold a pre-defined shape, e. g. a ply. Said feature is enhanced by the presence of the aforesaid size. The main function of the textile softener is to make the tissue softer, especially at the plies edges, thus preventing the same tissue from tearing during the subsequent finishing treatments.

The above polymeriseable resin with a stabilising effect can be of the kind which is normally used for finishing of tissues, and more particularly for making them more consistent and stable. By way of example, a commercial product which is particularly suitable is a product known with the trade name of"STABITEX ETR T PLUS", available from Cognis S. p. A. This product composition is bis (methoxy-methil) di- hydroxyethyleneurea, with a specific catalyst.

As the above cited protective acrylic resin can be used, by way of example, a product known with the trade name of"STABICRYL 04", also available from Cognis S. p. A.

According to the stiffness required for the tissue to be treated, the concentration of the above stabilizing resin in the aqueous solution may be comprised between 5% and 50% by weight. In order to obtain a tissue stiffness which allows a successful treatment for all of the garment types, the optimum resin concentration would be a 22% by weight.

The acrylic resin is also added to the aqueous solution at similar concentrations.

Nevertheless, the correct amount has to be evaluated according to the subsequent traditional finishing treatments that have to be performed on the garments.

The above cited textile softener is preferably composed by a mixture of a silicone based softener and of a polyethylene based softener. In fact, even if some acceptable result could be obtained with a single kind of softener, it has been found that the best results are obtained by combining the above two kinds of textile softeners.

More particularly, by way of example, the commercial silicone based softener known with the trade name"ADASIL HS"and the commercial polyethylene based <BR> <BR> softener known as"ADALIN 1167", both from Cognis S. p. A. , can be suitably used for the above purposes.

The concentration of the two kinds of textile softeners in the aqueous solution depend on the tissue consistence and on the desired degree of softening action, and are usually comprised between 2% and 20% by weight for each softener. It has been found that a typical concentration for each of the aforesaid softeners in the aqueous solution is a 6% by weight.

According to the subsequent operating phase of the present method, a series of suitably shaped, tridimensional plies are made on selected portions of the garments.

These plies are made side by side, in a so-called"accordion"arrangement, and are located at one or more of the following positions: for trousers, in the front side at both sides of the trousers fork, just below the front pockets; in the back side, in a zone just below the gluteus, at both sides, and behind the knees; at the lower end of the trousers legs; for jackets and shirts, in the front side of both sleeves, at the elbow articulation.

Further, casually oriented plies are also made on other portions of the treated garments. This latter operation is suggested, but it may be omitted, because some casual plies usually appear without intervention during the subsequent treatment phases.

The above plies are normally made by hand, and held in position by means of pliers or clasps.

The so treated garments are then inserted into a static kiln for a first drying heat treatment. The kiln temperature is held below the resin polymerising temperature.

When using the aforesaid stabilising resin, the drying temperature may be preferably comprised between 100 and 110°C. The drying time depends on how the aqueous solution has been applied, on the specific weight of the tissue, and on the number of

garments in the kiln. Normally, a period of time comprised between 2 and 3 hours is enough.

A second heat treatment phase follows the above described first one. The garments are conveyed into a continuous kiln, at a temperature e for a period of time which is sufficient for the resin to polymerise completely. For the aforementioned resin a kiln temperature of 160° is suitable.

The garments are preferably subject to a double cycle of transit through the continuous kiln for an optimum resin polymerisation. A first cycle of transit comprises a first transit with the garment resting on its back side, and a second transit with the garment resting on its front side. The second cycle of transit repeats the first one. The optimum duration of each cycle, although not critical, is around 5 minutes.

After the completion of the second heat treatment, the resin has completely polymerised. The so treated garments result in having tridimensional plies which are extremely persistent, which don't disappear even after several water washing cycles.

All the tests which have been performed show that the plies stay substantially unmodified after more than ten normal water washing cycles.

Moreover, also the casually located plies are become permanent, as the resin was applied to the whole garment surface. This contributes to increase the originality the garment image obtained with the present method.

Once the garments have been subject to the above described treatment, they could be also subject to further, traditional finishing treatments, in order to obtain a large number of variations of the aforesaid garment image. By way of example, it is possible to perform one or more of the following finishing treatments: scratching, either on selected portions or on the whole garment surface, by means of sand paper or other equivalent tools, in order to obtain parallel fading areas or lines, which simulate the result of several rubbing operations made with brushes during the washing of garments; de-colouring of garment portions by means of oxidising <BR> <BR> products, like chlorine or potassium permanganate (e. g. , at the position of knees, gluteus or on the legs front side); the traditional stone washing, made inside containers with abrasive products, like pumice stone, chlorine, with or without additional colouring products. Adding these latter products allows a"professional" use of the garment, e. g. by a painter or a mechanician, to be simulated.

Performing the aforesaid treatments doesn't compromise the garment integrity, mostly because of the textile softeners which are included in a given combination in

the aqueous solution containing the resin. Nevertheless, these treatments allow a practically infinite number of variations of the present garment image to be obtained.

The extremely long persistence of the plies on the garments treated according to the above described method, as well as the location of the same plies on the garment surface, for all the image variations which have been illustrated, promises a great success among the denim tissue garments consumers.

It is to be intended that the above description has been done by way of an example. Therefore, all the invention modifications and variants, as above described and claimed in the following, are included in the protective field covered by this patent.