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Title:
SEWING MACHINE THROAT PLATE ASSEMBLY
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2015/004469
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A throat plate assembly for a sewing machine, comprising a throat plate extending in a thickness direction from a first surface, for contacting a layer of fabric to be sewn, to a second surface, said throat plate being provided with a needle bore that passes through the thickness of the throat plate, from its first surface to its second surface, for passage of a sewing machine needle, wherein the throat plate assembly further comprises a cutting member, having a cutting edge, that is movable relative to the needle bore from a first position to a second position so as to cut at least one thread received in the needle bore, wherein the cutting member is located relative to the throat plate such that its cutting edge cuts the at least one thread along a cutting plane that is substantially in fine with the second surface of the throat plate or is located between the second surface of the throat plate and the first surface of the throat plate.

Inventors:
WONG JOHN (CA)
Application Number:
PCT/GB2014/052108
Publication Date:
January 15, 2015
Filing Date:
July 10, 2014
Export Citation:
Click for automatic bibliography generation   Help
Assignee:
TALTECH LTD
International Classes:
D05B65/06; D05B73/12
Foreign References:
US2345943A1944-04-04
DE10115384A12001-11-15
JP2002355483A2002-12-10
US5778809A1998-07-14
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
MARKS & CLERK LLP (ManchesterGreater Manchester, M1 4HD, GB)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS;

1. A throat plate assembly for a sewing machine, comprising a throat plate extending in a thickness direction from a first surface, for contacting a layer of fabric to be sewn, to a second surface, said throat plate being provided with a needle bore that passes through the thickness of the throat piate, from its first surface to its second surface, for passage of a sewing machine needle, wherein the throat plate assembly further comprises a cutting member, having a cutting edge, that is movable relative to the needle bore from a first position to a second position so as to cut at least one thread received in the needle bore, wherein the cutting member is located relative to the throat plate such that its cutting edge cuts the at least one thread along a cutting piane that is substantially in line with the second surface of the throat plate or is located between the second surface of the throat piate and the first surface of the throat plate. 2. A throat plate assembly according to claim 1 wherein the cutting plane of the cutting member is located between the second surface of the throat piate and the first surface of the throat plate.

3. A throat plate assembly according to either of claims 1 or 2 wherein the cutting member is at least partially located within the throat plate. 4. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the throat plate defines an enclosure within which the cutting member is at least partially housed.

5. A throat plate assembly according to claim 4 wherein the enclosure is dimensioned so as to accommodate the movement of the cutting member from its first position to its second position.

6. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the cutting member is provided with a needle aperture to allow the passage of a sewing machine needle passing through the needle bore in the throat plate.

7. A throat plate assembly according to claim 6 wherein the at least a section of a surface of the cutting member that defines the needle aperture forms said cutting edge and is arranged such that when the cutting member is in its first position the needle aperture overlaps the needle bore in the throat plate to an extent that allows a needle passing through the needle bore in the throat plate to pass through the needle aperture in the cutting member and when the cutting member is in its second position, the needle aperture in the cutting member is positioned relative to the needle bore in the throat plate such that the cutting edge cuts a thread passing through the needle bore in the throat plate and the needle aperture in the cutting member.

8. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the cutting member is substantially flat.

9. A throat plate assembly according to claim 8 wherein the throat plate is substantially planar and the cutting member is arranged such that as it moves from its first position to its second position if moves substantially within the plane of the throat plate.

10. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the first surface of the throat plate is provided with at least one slot for receiving teeth of a fabric actuation assembly of a sewing machine.

11. A throat plate assembly according to claim 10 wherein the at least one slot comprises a first slot, the cutting member is provided with a slot which is substantially parallel to the first slot in the throat plate and overlaps the first slot in the throat plate such that teeth of a fabric actuation assembly may pass through the overlapping slots.

12. A throat plate assembly according to claim 11 wherein the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate are dimensioned and arranged such that when the cutting member is in its first position and its second position, as well as any position between its first and second positions, the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate overlap to an extent that permits said teeth to pass through the overlapping slots.

13. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the cutting member is arranged to translate in a linear direction, from its first position to its second position.

14. A throat plate assembly according to claim 13 when dependent on any of either of claims 11 or 12 wherein the cutting member is arranged such that as it moves from its first position to its second position it moves in a direction that is substantially parallel to the length of the first slot in the throat plate.

15. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the cutting member is arranged such that it is rotatable, relative to the throat plate, between its first and second positions.

16. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the cutting member forms a first cutting member and the throat plate assembly further comprises a second cutting member, having a cutting edge, arranged such that as the first cutting member moves from its first position to its second position, the cutting edges of the first and second cutting members engage so as to cut said thread along said cutting plane.

17. A throat plate assembly according to claim 16 wherein the second cutting member is at least partially located within the throat plate.

18. A throat plate assembly according to claim 17 wherein the throat plate defines an enclosure within which the second cutting member is at least partially housed.

19. A throat plate assembly according to any of claims 16 to 18 wherein the second cutting member is provided with a needle aperture to allow the passage of the sewing machine needle as it passes through the throat plate. 20. A throat plate assembly according to claim 19 wherein at least a section of the surface of the second cutting member that defines the needle aperture forms its cutting edge.

21. A throat plate assembly according to any of claims 16 to 20 when dependent on claim 11 wherein the at least one slot in the throat plate comprises a second slot, the second cutting member is provided with a slot that is substantially parallel to the second slot in the throat plate and overlaps the second slot in the throat plate such that teeth of a fabric actuation assembly may pass through the overlapping slots.

22. A throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim wherein the throat plate comprises first and second sections that are reieasably attachable to each other so as to allow access to the cutting member.

23. A sewing machine for sewing a first artic!e to a second articie comprising a need!e having an eye for receiving a first thread, a first thread feeder mechanism for feeding a first thread from a first thread source to the eye of the needle, a first actuator arranged to move the needle reciprocally between a first position and a second position so as to pass the needie through the first and second articles and a second actuator arranged to move the first and second articles relative to the needle, such that the first articie is stitched to the second article by the first thread, wherein the sewing machine further comprises a throat plate assembly according to any preceding claim, wherein the needle is arranged to move through the needle bore in the throat piate as it moves between its first and second positions such that a section of the first thread is received within the bore in the throat piate and the cutting member of the throat plate assembly is arranged to cut the section of the first thread received within the bore, along said cutting plane, when the cutting member is moved from its first position to its second position.

24. A sewing machine according to claim 23 wherein the first article is a first layer of fabric and the second article is a second layer of fabric. 25. A sewing machine according to claim 24 wherein the second actuator comprises a fabric actuator assembly comprising at least one set of teeth that are arranged to pass through the slot in the first cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate and a teeth actuator arranged to move the at least one set of teeth relative to the throat plate so as to actuate the first and second layers of fabric relative to the needle, wherein the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat piate are dimensioned and arranged such that when the cutting member is in its first position and its second position, as well as any position between its first and second positions, the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate overlap to an extent that permits the at least one set of teeth to pass through the slot in the cutting member and first slot in the throat plate.

26. A sewing machine according to either of claims 23 or 24 wherein the first articie is a button and the second article is a layer of fabric.

27. A sewing machine according to any of claims 23 to 26 wherein the first and second cutting members form a first cutting assembly and the sewing machine also comprises a second cutting assembly comprising a first cutting member, having a cutting edge, that is movable relative to the needle bore from a first position to a second position so as to cut the first thread passing through the needle bore along a cutting plane, wherein the cutting plane of the second cutting assembly is located outwardly of the second surface of the throat plate, in the thickness direction of the throat plate.

28. A sewing machine according to claim 27 wherein the second cutting assembly comprises a second cutting member, having a cutting edge, wherein the first cutting member of the second cutting assembly is movable relative to the second cutting member of the second cutting assembly as it moves from its first position to its second position, so as to cut said first thread. 29. A method of sewing a first article to a second article using a sewing machine according to any of claims 23 to 28, comprising using the first actuator to reciprocate the needle between its first and second positions, so as to pass the needle and first thread through the first and second articles and using the second actuator to move the first and/or second articles relative to the needle, so that the first article is stitched to the second article by the first thread and moving the cutting member from its first position to its second position so as to cut at least a section of the first thread received within the needle bore along said cutting plane. 30. A method according to claim 29 wherein the needle is moved from its second position to its first position such that at least a section of the first thread is received within the needle bore and the cutting member is moved from its first position to its second position so as to cut the at (east a section of the first thread received within the needle bore.

31. A method according to claim 30 when dependent, directly or indirectly on claim 27 comprising the step of cutting the at least one section of thread with the second cutting assembly along the cutting plane of the second cutting assembly. 32. A method according to ciaim 31 wherein the second cutting assembly cuts the at !east one section of thread before the first cutting assembly.

33. A garment made by a method of sewing a first article to a second article according to any of claims 29 to 32.

34. A throat plate assembly substantially as described herein with reference to the description and drawings. 35. A sewing machine substantially as described herein with reference to the description and drawings.

36. A method of sewing a first article to a second article substantially as described herein with reference to the description and drawings.

Description:
SEWING MACHINE THROAT PLATE ASSEMBLY

The present invention relates to a throat plate assembly for a sewing machine.

Known sewing machines fall into various categories including loop stitch sewing machines, button sewing machines and bar tack sewing machines.

Loop stitch sewing machines comprise lock stitch sewing machines and chain stitch sewing machines.

A lock stitch sewing machine comprises a needle (or a plurality of needles) mechanically coupled to an actuator, such as an electric motor, so as to produce reciprocating linear motion of the needle, between an upper position and a lower position. The needle is supplied with a first thread from a rotationaliy mounted spool, which is passed through an eye of the needle.

The sewing machine also comprises a throat plate assembly. The throat plate assembly comprises a throat plate that extends from an upper surface, in a thickness direction, to a lower surface. The throat plate is provided with a needle bore that extends through the thickness of the throat plate from its upper surface to its lower surface. The upper surface is provided with one or more slots that extend in the length direction of the throat plate.

The sewing machine also comprises a feed dog assembly comprising a set of serrated teeth that are provided within each of the slots and protrude above the upper surface of the throat plate.

In use, two or more layers of fabric are laid one on top of the other and are placed onto the upper surface of the throat plate. The serrated teeth can be raised and lowered to respectively engage and disengage the lower surface of the fabric layers. The serrated teeth are operable to move the fabric forwards or backwards, relative to the needle. Once the serrated teeth have moved forwards, they are lowered, moved backwards and then raised again into contact with the lower surface of the fabric layers, when the cycle repeats and the teeth move forward again. In this way the serrated teeth move the fabric forward, relative to the needle. The serrated teeth are mechanically coupled to an actuator, so as to produce said motion. The actuator may be the same as, or different from, the actuator that drives the reciprocating needle. The needle passes through a presser foot which is arranged to press the fabric layers against the upper surface of the throat plate as the fabric is moved relative to the needle, by the feed dog assembly.

A rotary shuttle assembly is provided beneath the lower surface of the throat plate, comprising a bobbin, on which a second thread is wound, and a shuttle hook mounted to rotate around the bobbin.

In use, as the needle moves from its upper position to its lower position, it pierces the fabric layers provided between the throat piate and the presser foot. The needle then passes through the needle bore in the throat plate, passing from the above the upper surface of the throat p!ate to below the lower surface of the throat piate.

In its lower position, the needle presents the first thread below the lower surface of the throat plate. As it does so, the shuttle hook of the rotary shuttle rotates, relative to the bobbin, to loop the presented section of the first thread around the bobbin, which loops it around the second thread. As the needle moves back towards to its upper position it pulls the first and second threads into the needle bore, through the lower end of the needle bore. As the needle is moved further back towards its upper position, the looped first and second threads are pulled tight, on the lower side of the fabric, to form a stitch which secures the layers of fabric together.

The serrated teeth then shift the fabric layers forward, relative to the needle, by a desired stitch length, and the process repeats, so as to produce an adjacent stitch. This process then repeats so as to produce a seam of a desired length along the fabric layers.

A chain stitch sewing machine is similar to a lock stitch sewing machine. Some chain stitch sewing machines use first and second threads to produce the stitches, in a similar way to a lock stitch sewing machine. Other chain stitch sewing machines only use a single thread to produce the stitches. In such chain stitch sewing machines, the rotary shuttle assembly (and the bobbin provided with the second thread} is replaced with a looping hook that is mounted to an end of a pivotally mounted arm,

In use, as the needle moves from its upper position to its lower position, it pierces the fabric layers provided between the throat plate and the presser foot. The needle then passes through the needle bore in the throat piate, passing from above the upper surface of the throat plate to below the tower surface of the throat plate, in its second position, the needie presents the thread below the lower surface of the throat plate.

The arm is then pivoted, causing the looping hook to form the presented section of the thread into a loop that protrudes from the lower end of the needle bore in the throat plate. Furthermore, as the needle moves from its upper position to its Sower position, it passes through the centre of the loop of thread made by the looping hook In the previous needle cycle, thereby passing its thread through this loop. The serrated teeth of the feed dog assembly then shift the fabric layers forward by a desired stitch length, which causes the loop and the section of the thread that was passed through the loop, to form a stitch. The process is then repeated so as to produce an adjacent stitch. The process is then repeated along the fabric layers to form a seam of a desired length.

A button sewing machine also only uses a single thread. However, the presser foot is provided with a button clamp, typically in the form of a pair of opposed jaws mounted to an arm. A button is inserted into the button clamp and the button clamp is lowered so as to press the fabric against the throat plate. When the button is inserted into the button holder, the holes in the button are aligned in a correct orientation relative to the needle. As the needle moves up and down, the button is moved backwards and forwards, as well as from side to side in the lateral direction, by the button clamp, so that the thread passes from the upper side of the fabric to the lower side of the fabric through each of the button holes, thereby stitching the button to the fabric. As it does so, the needle passes through the bore in the throat plate. Alternatively, the button clamp is stationary and the needle is moved from side to side in the lateral direction, as it moves up and down, so as to stitch the button to the fabric. Again, as it does so, the needie passes through the bore in the throat plate, in a button sewing machine there are no serrated teeth or slots in the throat plate, as the fabric is moved by the movable button clamp.

In a bar tack sewing machine, the presser foot is provided with a laterally extending slot. The presser foot is lowered so as to clamp the fabric against the throat plate. As the needle moves up and down, the presser foot is moved side to side, In the lateral direction, to move the fabric from side to side, so as to produce a zigzag stitch. As it does so, the needle passes through the bore in the throat plate. The zigzag stitch is used to provide reinforcement to areas of a garment. In a bar tack sewing machine, there are no serrated teeth or slots in the throat plate, as the fabric is moved by the movable presser foot.

In all of the above types of sewing machine a cutting assembly, in the form of a pair of cutting members that are movable relative to each other, is provided below the lower surface of the throat plate and is actuated, once a desired length of seam has been produced, or a button has been sewn onto a fabric, so as to cut the thread(s) below the throat piate,

In a lock stitch sewing machine the cutting assembly cuts both the first and second threads, i.e. cuts sections of the first and second threads extending out of the tower end of the needle bore in the throat piate. in a chain stitch sewing machine that uses a single thread, the cutting assembly cuts two sections of the loop of thread, formed by the looping hook, that extend out of the lower end of the needle bore in the throat plate.

In a chain stitch sewing machine that uses first and second threads, the cutting assembly cuts both the first and second threads, i.e. cuts sections of the first and second threads extending out of the lower end of the needle bore in the throat plate.

In a button sewing machine, the cutting assembly cuts one or more sections of the same thread that extends out of the lower end of the needle bore in the throat plate. in a bar tack sewing machine, the cutting assembly cuts one or more sections of the same thread that extends out of the lower end of the needle bore in the throat plate.

However, this cutting assembly suffers from the problem that the length of the cut thread end(s) attached to the fabric is undesirably long. This is especially a problem in high-quality products, which demand a very short length of cut thread end. It is then typical for the thread end(s) to be cut manually, using a pair of scissors, so as to cut the thread end(s) to a desired length. This is labour intensive, and so is costly, and can result in accidental cutting of the fabric.

It is an object of the present invention to overcome or mitigate the problems described in the paragraph above. It is also an object of the present invention to provide an alternative throat plate assembly of a sewing machine. According to a first aspect of the invention there is provided a throat plate assembly for a sewing machine, comprising a throat piate extending in a thickness direction from a first surface, for contacting a layer of fabric to be sewn, to a second surface, said throat plate being provided with a needle bore that passes through the thickness of the throat plate, from its first surface to its second surface, for passage of a sewing machine needle, wherein the throat plate assembly further comprises a cutting member, having a cutting edge, that is movable relative to the needle bore from a first position to a second position so as to cut at least one thread received in the needle bore, wherein the cutting member is located relative to the throat plate such that its cutting edge cuts the at least one thread along a cutting plane that is substantially in line with the second surface of the throat plate or is located between the second surface of the throat p!ate and the first surface of the throat plate.

This is advantageous in that, since the cutting plane of the cutting member is substantially in line with the second surface of the throat piate or is located between the second surface of the throat plate and the first surface of the throat plate, when the cutting member moves from its first position to its second position it cuts one or more threads passing through the needle bore leaving a thread-end length that is less than or equal to the thickness of the throat plate respectively. This produces one or more thread ends with a relatively short length, i.e. which extends a relatively short length from the adjacent surface of the fabric layer.

This is more aesthetically pleasing and therefore allows articles that are sewn by a sewing machine comprising the throat plate assembly of the invention, to be of a higher quality. Furthermore, having obtained such desired short thread ends, it is not necessary for a subsequent manual cutting operation to be performed in order to cut the thread end(s) to a shorter length. This makes the process less labour-intensive, thereby saving cost. It also reduces the risk of damage to the article, which can occur during such a manual cutting operation, in addition, since the cutting member is located relative to the throat plate such that its cutting edge cuts the thread along a plane that is substantially in line with the second surface of the throat plate or is located between the second surface of the throat plate and the first surface of the throat plate, the rigidity of the throat plate is maintained. If, instead, the thickness of the throat piate was reduced in order to try to move the cutting member closer to the adjacent surface of the fabric, then the rigidity of the throat piate would be reduced. This would cause the throat plate to flex during use, due to the force exerted on the throat piate by the presser foot/button clamp of the sewing machine. Preferably the at least one thread is a thread that is coupled to the needie. For example a thread that passes through an eye of the needie or is otherwise coupled to the needie.

The cutting member may be arranged to cut first and second sections of the same thread within the needle bore.

The cutting member may be arranged to cut more than one thread within the needle bore. For example, the cutting member may be arranged to cut first and second threads within the needle bore.

Preferably the cutting plane of the cutting member is located between the second surface of the throat plate and the first surface of the throat plate.

Preferably the cutting member is located between the first and second surfaces of the throat plate. Preferably the cutting edge of the cutting member is located between the first and second surfaces of the throat plate.

The cutting member may be at least partially located within the throat plate. Preferably the cutting edge of the cutting member is at least partially located within the throat plate.

Preferably the cutting member is located entirely within the throat plate. Preferably the cutting edge of the cutting member is located entirely within the throat plate.

Preferably the throat plate defines an enclosure within which the cutting member is at least partially housed. The cutting member may be entirely housed within the enclosure. The enclosure may be formed by a groove and/or channel formed within the throat plate.

The enclosure is preferably dimensioned so as to accommodate the movement of the cutting member from its first position to its second position. Preferably the cutting member is provided with a needle aperture to allow the passage of a sewing machine needle passing through the needle bore in the throat plate. The needle aperture may be formed by a slot. Preferably at least a section of a surface of the cutting member that defines the needle aperture forms said cutting edge and is arranged such that when the cutting member is in its first position the needle aperture overlaps the needle bore in the throat plate to an extent that allows a needle passing through the needie bore in the throat plate to pass through the needie aperture in the cutting member and when the cutting member is in its second position, the needle aperture in the cutting member is positioned relative to the needie bore in the throat plate such that the cutting edge cuts a thread passing through the needle bore in the throat plate and the needle aperture in the cutting member as the cutting member moves to its second position.

The cutting edge is preferably a substantially arcuate edge. Alternatively, the cutting edge may be formed by a V shaped edge or a substantially straight edge. Alternatively, the cutting edge may be any shape that is suitable to cut said thread.

Preferably the cutting member is substantially fiat. Preferably the throat plate is substantially planar and the cutting member is arranged such that as it moves from its first position to its second position it moves substantially within the plane of the throat piate.

The throat plate assembly may be for a lockstitch or chain stitch sewing machine. The first surface of the throat plate is preferably provided with at least one slot for receiving teeth of a fabric actuation assembly of a sewing machine. Such a fabric actuator assembly is arranged, in use, to actuate fabric relative to the needle of a sewing machine so as to progress the position of the stitch along the fabric.

Preferably the at least one slot extends from the first surface of the throat plate, through the thickness of the throat plate, to the second surface of the throat plate. The at least one slot in the throat plate preferably comprises a first slot. The cutting member is preferably provided with a slot, The first slot in the throat plate and the slot in the cutting member are preferably elongate, having a length that extends in a longitudinal direction and a width that extends in a lateral direction.

Preferably the slot in the cutting member is substantially parallel to the first slot in the throat plate and overlaps the first slot in the throat plate in the lateral direction. Preferably this overlap is such that teeth of a fabric actuation assembly may pass through the overlapping slots. Accordingly, the cutting member does not hinder the passage of the teeth through the throat plate.

The slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate are preferably dimensioned and arranged such that when the cutting member is in its first position and its second position, as well as any position between its first and second positions, the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate overlap in the longitudinal direction. Preferably said overlap is to an extent that permits said teeth to pass through the overlapping slots.

The cutting member may translate in a linear direction, from its first position to its second position. Preferably the cutting member is arranged such that as it moves from its first position to its second position it moves in a direction that is substantially parallel to the length of the first slot in the throat plate. This is advantageous in that the movement of the cutting member accommodates the serrated teeth that pass through said first slots in the throat plate and cutting member.

The throat plate assembly may be for a button sewing machine or a bar tack sewing machine. In this case, the throat plate may not be provided with said at least one slot.

The cutting member may be arranged such that it is rotatable, relative to the throat plate, between its first and second positions. This is advantageous in that, since such a throat plate does not need to accommodate teeth of a fabric actuator assembly, the cutting member can be rotatable, which provides the mechanical advantage of a lever.

Preferably the cutting member forms a first cutting member and the throat plate assembly further comprises a second cutting member, having a cutting edge, arranged such that as the first cutting member moves from its first position to its second position, the cutting edges of the first and second cutting members engage so as to cut said thread along said cutting plane.

The first and second cutting members preferably engage by slidabie engagement, for example by shearing past each other.

Preferably the second cutting member is fixed relative to the throat plate.

The second cutting member may have some or all of the features of the first cutting member. For example, the second cutting member is preferably Iocated between the first and second surfaces of the throat plate. Preferably the cutting edge of the second cutting member is iocated between the first and second surfaces of the throat plate.

The second cutting member may be at least partially Iocated within the throat plate. Preferably the cutting edge of the second cutting member is at least partially located within the throat plate. Preferably the second cutting member is located entirely within the throat p!ate. Preferably the cutting edge of the second cutting member is located entirely within the throat plate.

Preferably the throat plate defines an enclosure within which the second cutting member is at least partially housed. The enclosure may be formed by a groove and/or channel formed within the throat plate.

The second cutting member may be provided with a needle aperture to allow the passage of the sewing machine needle as it passes through the throat piate.

Preferably at least a section of the surface of the second cutting member that defines the needle aperture forms its cutting edge. The needle aperture in the second cutting member is preferably arranged such that it is substantially aligned with the needle bore in the throat plate.

The at least one slot in the throat plate preferably comprises a second slot. The second cutting member is preferably provided with a slot. The slot in the second cutting member is preferably elongate, having a length that extends in a longitudinal direction and a width that extends in a lateral direction. Preferably the slot in the second cutting member is substantially parallel to the second slot in the throat plate and overlaps the second slot in the throat plate in the lateral direction. Preferably this overlap is such that teeth of a fabric actuation assembly may pass through the overlapping slots. Accordingly, the second cutting member does not hinder the passage of the teeth through the throat plate.

Alternatively, the second cutting member may also be movable relative to the needle bore between first and second positions such that when the first and second cutting members move from their respective first position to the respective second positions, they mutually engage so as to cut a thread passing through the needle bore. In this case, the second cutting member is preferably a second said cutting member (i.e. the second cutting member has some or all of the features of the first cutting member).

The throat p!ate may be formed from a singie piece. Alternatively, the throat plate may comprise first and second sections that are reieasably attachable to each other so as to allow access to the cutting member, In this case, the throat plate is preferably separable, in the thickness direction, into first and second sections that are reieasably attachable to each other. This is advantageous in that the first and second sections can be detached from each other in order to a!iow the cutting member to be replaced, for example if the cutting member becomes b!unt through use. The throat plate may be separable s in the thickness direction, into more than two second sections that are re!easably attachable to each other, for example three sections. Preferably the cutting member is for connection to an actuation member for actuating the cutting member from its first position to its second position. The actuation member may comprise a motor such as a pneumatic, electrical and/or hydraulic motor. Alternatively, or additionally, the cutting member may be manually operable between its first and second positions. According to a second aspect of the invention there is provided a sewing machine for sewing a first article to a second article comprising a needle having an eye for receiving a first thread, a first thread feeder mechanism for feeding a first thread from a first thread source to the eye of the needle, a first actuator arranged to move the needle reciprocally between a first position and a second position so as to pass the needle through the first and second articles and a second actuator arranged to move the first and second articles relative to the needle such that the first article is stitched to the second article by the first thread, wherein the sewing machine further comprises a throat plate assembly according to the first aspect of the invention, the needle is arranged to move through the needle bore in the throat plate as it moves between its first and second positions such that a section of the first thread is received within the bore in the throat plate and the cutting member of the throat plate assembly is arranged to cut the section of the first thread received within the bore, along said cutting plane, when the cutting member is moved from its first position to its second position. The second actuator may be arranged to move the needle and the first and second articles so as to provide said relative movement. The second actuator may be the same as the first actuator, or different to the first actuator.

The first article may be a first layer of fabric and the second article a second layer of fabric. The sewing machine may be a loop stitch sewing machine, for example a lock stitch or chain stitch sewing machine. The sewing machine may be a bar tack sewing machine.

The sewing machine may further comprise a first thread actuator arranged to actuate the first thread as the needle moves between its first and second positions such that the first article is stitched to the second article by looping sections of the first thread together to form a stitch, !n this case, the first thread actuator may be a hook mounted on an arm that is pivotai!y mounted relative to the throat plate. The cutting member may be arranged to cut first and second sections of the first thread received within the needle bore.

The sewing machine may further comprise a second thread feeder mechanism and a second thread actuator, wherein the second thread feeder mechanism is for feeding a second thread from a second thread source to the second thread actuator and wherein the second thread actuator is arranged such that, as the needle moves between its first and second positions, the first article is stitched to the second article by looping the first and second threads together to form a stitch. The second thread actuator may be a rotary shuttle assembly. The cutting member may be arranged to cut sections of the first and second threads received within the needle bore.

The first article may be a button and the second article a layer of fabric. The sewing machine may be a button sewing machine.

Where at least one of the first and second articles is a layer of fabric, the second actuator preferably comprises a fabric actuator assembly comprising at least one set of teeth that are arranged to pass through the slot in the first cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate and a teeth actuator arranged to move the at least one set of teeth relative to the throat plate so as to actuate the at least one of the first and second layers of fabric relative to the needle, wherein the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate are dimensioned and arranged such that when the cutting member is in its first position and its second position, as well as any position between its first and second positions, the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate overlap to an extent that permits the at least one set of teeth to pass through the slot in the cutting member and first slot in the throat plate. Where the first and second articles are first and second layers of fabric respectively, the fabric actuator assembly is preferably arranged to actuate the first and second layers of fabric relative to the needle. This is advantageous in that it allows the cutting member to be moved from its first position to second position (i.e. to cut said thread(s)) when the at least one set of teeth are passing through the slot in the cutting member and the first slot in the throat plate. Accordingly, the cutting member may cut the thread(s) when the fabric actuating assembly engages the fabric.

The first and/or second cutting members may form a first cutting assembly. The sewing machine may also comprise a second cutting assembly comprising a first cutting member, having a cutting edge, that is movable relative to the needle bore from a first position to a second position so as to cut the first thread, or the first and second threads, passing through the needle bore along a cutting plane, wherein the cutting plane of the second cutting assembly is located outwardly of the second surface of the throat plate, in the thickness direction of the throat plate. Preferabiy the cutting plane of the second cutting assembly is located below the second surface of the throat plate.

The first cutting member of the second cutting assembly may be directly mounted on the second surface of the throat plate. Alternatively, the first cutting member may be mounted onto an intermediary member, mounted between the first cutting member and the second surface of the throat plate.

This is advantageous in that, during use, the first cutting member of the second cutting assembly may perform a first cut of the first and/or second threads. Because the cutting edge of said first cutting member is provided below the second surface of the throat plate, this ensures that the first and/or second threads that extend from the needle or second thread feeder mechanism respectively are long enough for a subsequent stitch to be formed (e.g. when a new seam is started). This therefore avoids the problem of 'skipped stitch' occurring.

The first cutting assembly may then perform a second cut of the first thread, or the first and second threads. The second cutting assembly may comprise a second cutting member, having a cutting edge, wherein the first cutting member of the second cutting assembly is movable relative to the second cutting member of the second cutting assembly as it moves from its first position to Its second position, so as to cut said thread.

Preferabiy the second cutting member of the second cutting assembly is fixed relative to the throat plate. Alternatively, the second cutting member of the second cutting assembly may be movable relative to the first cutting member of the second cutting assembly, The sewing machine may comprise a first thread source. The sewing machine may also comprise a second thread source.

According to a third aspect of the invention there is provided a method of sewing a first article to a second article using a sewing machine according to the second aspect of the invention, comprising using the first actuator to reciprocate the needle between its first and second positions, so as to pass the need!e and first thread through the first and second articles, using the second actuator to move the first and second articles relative to the needie, so that the first article is stitched to the second article by the first thread and moving the cutting member from its first position to its second position so as to cut at least a section of the first thread received within the needle bore along said cutting plane.

Preferably the needle is moved from its second position to its first position such that at least a section of the first thread is received within the needle bore and the cutting member is moved from its first position to its second position so as to cut the at least a section of the first thread received within the needle bore.

The at least one section of the first thread may comprise a plurality of sections of the first thread, for example where the sewing machine is a chain stitch sewing machine that uses a single thread, or a button sewing machine.

Where the sewing machine comprises said second thread feeder mechanism and said second thread actuator, preferably the needle is moved from its second position to its first position such that the second thread is received within the needle bore. The method preferably comprises moving the cutting member from its first position to its second position to cut at least a section of the first thread, or of the first and second threads, received within the needle bore along said cutting plane.

Where the sewing machine comprises said second cutting assembly, the method may comprise the step of cutting the at least one section of thread with the second cutting assembly along the cutting plane of the second cutting assembly, wherein the second cutting assembly cuts the at least one section of thread before the first cutting assembly.

According to a fourth aspect of the invention there is provided a garment made by a method of sewing a first article to a second article according to the third aspect of the invention. A!i of the features described herein may be combined with any of the above aspects, in any combination.

A specific embodiment of the present invention wiil now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: Figure 1 shows a front perspective view of a needle assembiy, throat plate assembly and fabric actuator assembly of a sewing machine, wherein the throat plate assembly is a throat piate assembiy according to a first embodiment of the present invention installed for use with the sewing machine;

Figure 2 shows an exploded view of the throat piate assembly shown in figure 1 , with first and second sections of a throat plate of the throat plate assembly disassembled and laid side by side for illustrative purposes and with first and second cutting members of the throat plate assembly disassembled from the throat plate for illustrative purposes;

Figure 3 shows a view corresponding to that of figure 2 but where the first and second cutting members are mounted on respective first and second sections of the throat plate;

Figure 4 shows an upper perspective view of the first cutting member of the throat plate assembly shown in Figures 1 to 3;

Figure 5 shows a lower perspective view of the first cutting member of figure 4; Figure 6 shows an upper perspective view of the second cutting member of the throat plate assembly shown in Figures 1 to 3;

Figure 7 shows a lower perspective view of the second cutting member of figure 6;

Figure 8 shows a lower perspective view of the throat plate assembly shown in figures 1 to 3, with a second section of the throat plate of the throat plate assembly removed for illustrative purposes and wherein the first cutting member is in a first position;

Figure 9 shows a view corresponding to that of figure 8 but wherein the first cutting member is in a second position; Figure 10 shows a cross-sectional view taken along the line B-B in Figure 1, where the first cutting member is in its first position and where teeth of a fabric actuator assembly are omitted for illustrative purposes.

Figure 11 shows a view corresponding to that of Figure 10 but where the first cutting member is in its second position;

Figure 12 shows a lower perspective view of a first section of a throat plate of a throat plate assembly according to a second embodiment of the present invention, where a first cutting member of the throat plate assembly is in a first position and the second cutting member is omitted for illustrative purposes; Figure 13 shows a view corresponding to that of figure 12 but wherein the first cutting member is in a second position;

Figure 14 shows an enlarged view of the region A in Figure 12, with the first cutting member in a first position;

Figure 15 shows a view corresponding to Figure 14 but where the first cutting member in a second position;

Figure 16 shows a plan view of a second section of a throat plate of a throat plate assembly according to a second embodiment of the present invention;

Figure 17 shows an under plan view of the second section of the throat plate shown in Figure 16; Figures 18a to 18c show an upper perspective view of the first and second sections of the throat plate shown in figures 12 to 17, showing the sequential steps in the assembly of the first and second sections.

Figures 19a to 19c show views corresponding to that of figures 18a to 18c, but from a lower perspective view; Figure 20 shows a front perspective view of a button sewing machine comprising a throat plate assembly according to the second embodiment of the invention;

Figure 21 shows a front perspective view of a bar tack sewing machine comprising a throat plate assembly according to the second embodiment of the invention, and Figure 22 shows thread ends of first and second threads that have been stitched to form a seam and cut using the throat plate assembly of the first or second embodiments.

Referring to Figure 1 , there is shown a front perspective partial view of a loop stitch sewing machine 1 comprising a needle assembly 2, a throat plate assembly 3 and a fabric actuator assembly 110. The throat plate assembly 3 is a throat plate assembly according to a first embodiment of the present invention.

The throat plate assembly 3 comprises a throat plate 11 and first and second cutting members 12, 13, mounted within the throat plate 11 (as described below). In Figure 2 the first and second cutting members 12, 13 are shown disassembled from the throat plate 11.

The throat plate 11 is a substantially fiat plate. It extends in a longitudinal direction between first and second ends 14, 15 and in a lateral direction between first and second sides 16, 17. A first lateral section 18 of the throat plate 11 has a generally rectangular plan form shape and a second lateral section 19 of the throat plate 11 has a generally semicircular plan form shape. The first and second ends 14, 15 of the throat plate 11 are formed by opposed laterally extending ends of the first lateral section 18 of the throat plate 11. The first lateral side 16 is provided on a longitudinally extending side of the first lateral section 18 of the throat plate 11 and the second lateral side 17 is provided on the semicircular side of the second lateral section 19 of the throat plate 11.

The throat plate 11 extends in a thickness direction (see the arrow labelled 1' on figures 10 and 11) between a first surface 21 and a second surface 22 (see Figures 10 and 11). The plate 11 is substantially planar and is generally thin. The first surface 21 of the throat plate 11 is arranged such that, in use, it contacts a layer of fabric that is to be sewn to another article, such as another layer of fabric (as discussed in more detail below).

The needle assembly 2 comprises a needle 5 and a presser foot 6. The needle 5 has a sharp end which is located proximal to the first surface 21 of the throat plate 11. The needle 5 is provided with an eye 7 proximal to its sharp end for receiving a first thread 8. The first thread 8 is supplied from a spooi (not shown) and is received within the eye 7 of the needle 5.

The throat plate 11 is provided with a needle bore 23 that extends through the thickness of the throat plate 11 from its first surface 21 to its second surface 22. The needie bore 23 is for receiving the needte 5.

The needle 5 is mechanically coupled to a needle actuator (not shown) for reciprocal motion between first and second positions. In its first position, the needle 5 is disposed outside of the throat plate 11 , above the first surface 21 throat plate 11. In this position, the eye 7 of the needie 5 and the section of the first thread 8 received within the eye 7 of the needle 5, are disposed above the throat plate. In its second position, the needie 5 passes through the needle bore 23 in the throat plate 11 , with the eye 7 of the needle 5 and the section of the first thread 8 disposed beiow the second surface 22 of the throat piate 11.

The presser foot 6 comprises an elongate foot member provided with a substantially flat lower surface 9. The presser foot 6 can be moved towards and away from the first surface 21 of the throat plate assembly 3, from a first position that is distal to the first surface 21 to a second position that is proximal to said first surface 21. When the presser foot 6 is in its second position, it presses one or more layers of fabric (not shown) between the lower surface 9 of the presser foot 6 and the first surface 21 of the throat plate 11. The presser foot 6 is provided with a needle bore 10 through which the needle 5 passes as it moves from its first position to its second position.

The throat plate 11 is provided with a first pair of elongate slots 24, 25 that extend in the longitudinal direction of the plate 11 from a first end to a second end. Each of the slots 24, 25 has a length that extends in a longitudinal direction and a width that extends in a lateral direction.

The first pair of slots comprises first and second slots 24, 25. The first and second slots 24, 25 extend substantially parallel to each other and are spaced apart in the lateral direction of the throat plate 11. The first and second ends of the first and second slots 24, 25 are aligned with each other in the longitudinal direction of the throat plate 11 and are disposed on laterally opposite sides of the needle bore 23 in the throat plate 11. The throat piate 11 is provided with a second pair of elongate slots 26, 27 that extend in the longitudinal direction of the plate 11 from a first end to a second end. The second pair of slots comprises first and second slots 26, 27, Each of the slots 26, 27 has a length that extends in a iongitudinaf direction and a width that extends in a lateral direction. The first and second slots 26, 27 are substantially parallel to each other and are aligned with each other in the lateral direction of the throat piate 11, The first and second slots 26, 27 are provided on opposed sides, in the longitudinal direction of the plate 11 , of the needle bore 23. The first and second slots 26, 27 of the second pair are disposed in between the first and second slots 24, 25 of the first pair. The first and second ends of the first and second slots 26, 27 of the second pair are substantially aligned in the longitudinal direction with the first and second ends of the first and second slots 24, 25 of the first pair respectively.

The slots of the first and second pairs 24, 25, 26, 27 extend throughout the thickness of the throat piate 11 from its first surface 21 to its second surface 22. The slots 24, 25, 26, 27 are each arranged to receive a respective set of teeth of a fabric actuator assembly (see below).

As shown in figures 2, 3, 10 and 11, the throat plate 11 is split, in the thickness direction, into first and second sections 28, 29. In the current embodiment, the throat plate 11 is split substantially half way along its thickness into said first and second sections 28, 29.

The first section 28 has a first surface 21 , which forms the first surface of the throat piate 11 and an opposed second surface 30. Similarly, the second section 29 has a first surface 31 and an opposed second surface 22 which forms the second surface 22 of the throat plate 11. The first and second sections 28, 29 are releasabiy attachable to each other by a plurality of fasteners in the form of screws 40, However, it will be appreciated that any suitable fastener may be used.

When the first and second sections 28, 29 of the throat plate 11 are assembled, the second surface 30 of the first section 28 and the first surface 31 of the second section 29 are opposed to each other and contact each other. The first and second sections 28, 29 are each provided with first and second pairs of siots that extend through the thickness of the sections 28, 29 to form the first and second said pairs of slots 24, 25, 26, 27 in the throat piate 11.

Referring now to figures 4 and 5, the first cutting member 12 is a generally elongate member extending from a first end 61 to a second end 62 in a longitudinal direction. The first end 61 of the cutting member 12 is provided with a section of increased width (relative to the stem section 67) to form a base section 63 and a generally elongate section of reduced width (relative to the base section 63) to form a stem section 67. The base section 63 is provided with a substantially circular aperture 71 for attachment to an actuation member (not shown), as described in more detail below.

The stem section 67 extends from an end of the base section 63 to the second end 62 of the first cutting member 12. A slot 66 is provided in the stem section 67 and extends along a longitudinal axis of the stem section 67 from a first end 64 to a second end 65. The first end 64 of the slot 66 is proximal to the base section 63 and the second end 65 of the slot 66 is proximal to the second end 62 of the first cutting member 12. The stem section 67 forms a rim around the slot 66. The second end 65 of the slot 66 is formed into an arcuate cutting edge 70.

Referring now to figures 6 and 7, the second cutting member 13 is a generally elongate member extending from a first end 81 to a second end 82 in a longitudinal direction. The first end 81 of the cutting member 13 is provided with a section of increased width (relative to the stem section 87) to form a base section 83 and a generally elongate section of reduced width (relative to the base section 83) to form a stem section 87. The base section 83 is provided with a substantially circular aperture 47 for mounting to the first section 28 of the throat piate 11 (as described below).

A slot 86 is provided in the stem section 87 and extends along a longitudinal axis of the stem section 87 from a first end 84 to a second end 85. The slot 86 extends from an end of the base section 83 to part way along the length of the stem section 87. The first end 84 of the slot 86 is proximal to the base section 83 and the second end 85 of the slot 86 is proximal to the second end 82 of the second cutting member 13. The stem section 87 forms a rim around the slot 86. An aperture 88 is provided proximal to the second end 82 of the second cutting member 13. The aperture 88 is provided between the second end 85 of the s!ot 86 and the second end 82 of the second cutting member 13. A section of the aperture 88 provided towards the second end 82 of the second cutting member 13 is formed into an arcuate cutting edge 90.

Referring now to figures 2, 10 and 11 , a portion of the first surface 31 of the second section 29 of the throat plate 11 is recessed, in the direction of the second surface 22, to define a first channel 51. The recess has the footprint of the first cutting member 12 and is formed around the slot in the second section 29 of the throat piate 11 that forms, with the corresponding slot in the first section 28 of the throat piate 11 , the second slot 27 of the second pair of slots in the throat plate 11. The first channel 51 extends substantially parallel to said slot. The first channel 51 is sized and dimensioned to house the first cutting member 12.

A portion of the second surface 30 of the first section 28 is recessed, in the direction of the first surface 21, to define a second channel 52. The recess has the footprint of the second cutting member 13 and is formed around the slot in the first section 28 of the throat plate 11 that forms, with the corresponding slot in the second section 29 of the throat p!ate 11 , the first slot 26 of the second pair of slots in the throat plate 11. The second channel 52 extends substantially parallel to said slot. The second channel 52 is sized and dimensioned to house the second cutting member 13.

The second cutting member 13 is mounted within the second channel 52 such that the aperture 88 that is provided proximal to the second end 82 of the cutting member 13 is substantially aligned with the needle bore 23 in the throat plate 11. A circular protrusion on the second surface 30 of the first section 28 of the throat plate 11 is received within the aperture 47 in the second cutting member 13 so as to mount the second cutting member 13 to the first section 28 of the throat plate 11 ,

The first cutting member 12 is s!idably movable within the first channel 51 from a first position, shown in figure 10, to a second position, shown in figure 11 (and vice versa). The first channel 51 is sized and dimensioned so as to allow the movement of the first cutting member 12 from its first position to its second position. In this regard, the first channel 51 is longer than the first cutting member 12 so as to allow said movement. When the first cutting member 12 is in its first position, the second end 65 of the slot 66 provided in the cutting member 12 extends past the needle bore 23 in the throat piate 11. Accordingly, the need!e bore 23 is not interrupted by the first cutting member 12 (or the second cutting member 13). When the needie 5 is lowered from Its first (upper) position to its second (lower) position, and then raised back to its first position, at least one section of the first thread 8, or of a first thread and a second thread (see below), is received within the needle bore 23, as described below.

When the first cutting member 12 is in its second position, the second end 62 of the first cutting member 12 is disposed within the needle bore 23. As the first cutting member 12 moves from its first position to its second position, its cutting edge 70 engages with the cutting edge 90 of the second cutting member 13 along a cutting plane 100 (see Figure 11) so as to cut the at least one section of the first thread (8) or of the first thread and a second thread (see below) that passes through the needle bore 23, along said cutting plane 100. Opposed surfaces of the cutting edges 70, 90 shear past each other along the cutting plane 100,

The first and second cutting members 12, 13 are arranged such that the cutting plane 100 is located between the second surface 22 of the throat plate 11 and the first surface 21 of the throat plate 11. Alternatively the first and second cutting members 12, 13 may be arranged such that the cutting plane 100 is located substantially in line with the second surface 22 of the throat plate 11.

This is advantageous in that, since the cutting plane 100 is substantially in line with the second surface 22 of the throat plate 11 or is located between the second surface 22 of the throat plate 11 and the first surface 21 of the throat plate 11 , the at least one section of the first thread 8, or of the first thread and a second thread (see below) is cut such that the cut thread(s) 600 that extend from the layer of fabric (see Figure 22) have lengths that are less than or equal to the thickness of the throat plate 11 respectively. This produces thread endis) 600 with a relatively short length i.e. which extend a relatively short length from the adjacent surface of the fabric layer. This is more aesthetically pleasing and therefore allows articles that are sewn by a sewing machine comprising the throat plate of the invention, to be of a higher quality. Furthermore, in order to obtain such short thread end lengths, it is not necessary for a subsequent manual cutting operation to be performed, in order to cut the thread end(s) to a desired length. This makes the process less labour-intensive, thereby saving cost, tt also reduces the risk of damage to the article, which can often occur during such a manual cutting operation, In addition, since the first and second cutting members are provided within the throat plate 11, the rigidity of the throat plate 11 is maintained, if, instead, the thickness of the throat plate 11 was reduced in order to try and move the cutting members 12, 13 closer to the adjacent surface of the fabric, then the rigidity of the throat plate 11 would be reduced. This would cause the throat plate 11 to flex during use, due to the force is exerted on the throat plate 11 by the presser foot 6 of the sewing machine 1.

The first cutting member 12 is connected, via the aperture 71 in its base section 63, to an actuation member (not shown) for actuating the cutting member from its first position to its second position when operated by a user. The actuation member may comprise a motor such as a pneumatic, electrical and/or hydraulic motor. Alternatively, or additionally, the first cutting member 12 may be manually operable between its first and second positions.

The sewing machine 1 shown in Figure 1 is a loop stitch sewing machine, for sewing a first layer of fabric to a second layer of fabric (not shown). The fabric actuator assembly 110 (see Figure 1) Is arranged to move the layers of fabric relative to the needle 5 (and the throat plate 11) in the longitudinal direction so as to form a stitch made by the reciprocating needle 5 by moving the layers of fabric from a first longitudinal position to a second longitudinal position, relative to the needle, as the needle 5 moves from its first position to its second position and back again. The fabric actuator assembly 110 also moves the layers of fabric along the throat plate 11 to progress the stitches made by the needle 5 along the layers of fabric to produce a seam.

The fabric actuator assembly 110 comprises a first pair of first and second sets of serrated teeth 111 and a second pair of first and second sets of serrated teeth 112. The first and second slots 24, 25 of the first pair of slots are dimensioned and arranged so as to receive the first pair of first and second sets of serrated teeth 111. The first and second slots 26, 27 of the second pair of slots are dimensioned and arranged so as to receive the second pair of first and second sets of serrated teeth

112.

The sets of serrated teeth 111 , 112 are mechanically connected to a teeth actuator (not shown), such as an electric, pneumatic or hydraulic motor. The teeth actuator is mechanically coupled to the sets of serrated teeth 111, 112 so as to raise the teeth 111 , 112 to a first position, in which they protrude upwardly from the first surface 21 of the throat plate 11 and engage a lower surface of the lower most layer of fabric, to a second position in which an upper surface of the teeth 111 112 is provided below the level of the first surface 21 throat plate 11 , such that the teeth 111, 112 do not engage the layers of fabric.

The serrated teeth 111, 1 12 are movable in a forwards longitudinal direction so as to move the fabric forward, relative to the needle 5. Once the serrated teeth 111, 112 have moved forwards, they are lowered to their second position, moved backwards and then raised again into contact with the lower surface of the fabric layers, when the cycle repeats and the teeth move forward again. In this way, the serrated teeth 111, 112 move the fabric forward, relative to the needle 5. The teeth actuator may be the same as, or different to, the needle actuator,

As the serrated teeth 111, 112 are raised and lowered between their first and second positions, they pass through the respective slots 24, 25, 26, 27. The sewing machine 1 may be a lock stitch sewing machine or a chain stitch sewing machine.

Where the sewing machine 1 is a lock stitch sewing machine, the sewing machine 1 further comprises a second thread feeder mechanism and a second thread actuator in the form of a rotary shuttle assembly (not shown) provided beneath the throat plate 11 , comprising a bobbin (not shown), on which a second thread (not shown) is wound, and a shuttle hook (not shown) mounted to rotate around the bobbin

In use, as the needle 5 moves from its first (upper) position to its second (iower) position, it pierces the fabric layers provided on the throat piate 11 , between the throat plate 11 and the presser foot 6. This pierces the first thread 8 through the fabric layers, presenting it on the Iower side of the throat plate 11. As it does so, the rotating hook of the rotary shuttle rotates, relative to the bobbin, to loop the presented section of the first thread 8 around the bobbin, which loops it around the second thread. As the needle 5 moves back to its first position, the iooped first and second threads are pulled tight, on the lower side of the fabric, to form a stitch which secures the layers of fabric together. The serrated teeth 111 112 then shift the fabric layers forward, relative to the needle 5, by a desired stitch length, and the process repeats, so as to produce an adjacent stitch. This process then repeats so as to produce a seam of a desired length along the fabric layers. These features of a lock stitch sewing machine, and their method of operation, are well known in the art and so will not be described in any further detail.

When the needle 5 is lowered from its first (upper) position to its second (lower) position, and then raised back to its first position, to complete the final stitch of the seam, a section of the first thread 8 and a section of the second thread is received within the needle bore 23.

The first cutting member 12 is then moved from its first position to its second position, to cut the sections of the first and second threads received within the needle bore 23 along said cutting plane 100. This cuts the first and second threads close to the adjacent surface of the fabric layers such that the cut first and second threads 600 that extend from the layer of fabric (see Figure 22) have lengths that are less than or equal to the thickness of the throat plate 11 respectively, This produces thread ends 600 with a relatively short length i.e. which extend a relatively short length from the adjacent surface of the fabric layer. This provides the above described advantages.

The slot 66 in the first cutting member 12 extends substantially parallel to the second slot 27 of the second pair of slots in the throat plate 11 and is substantially aligned with said slot 27 in the longitudinal and lateral directions. The slot 66 is dimensioned and arranged so that the second set of the second pair of serrated teeth 112 can pass through the slot 66 as they are moved from their second position to their first position and vice versa.

The slot 86 in the second cutting member 13 extends substantially parallel to the first slot 26 of the second pair of slots in the throat plate 11 and is substantially aligned with said slot 26 in the longitudinal and lateral directions. The slot 86 is dimensioned and arranged so that the first set of the second pair of serrated teeth 112 can pass through the slot 86 as they are moved from their first position to their second position.

The slot 66 in the first cutting member 12 and the second slot 27 of the second pair of slots in the throat plate 11 are dimensioned and arranged such that when the first cutting member 12 is in its first position and its second position, as weil as any position between its first and second positions, the slots 66, 27 in the cutting member 12 and throat plate 11 overlap to an extent that permits said set of serrated teeth 112 to pass through the slots 66, 27. Accordingly, the first cutting member 12 may cut the first thread 8 when the teeth 11 , 112 are in their first (raised) position.

Where the sewing machine 1 is a chain stitch sewing machine that uses a single thread, only a single thread is used to produce the stitches, in this respect, the rotary shuttle assembly (and the second thread bobbin) is replaced with a looping hook that is mounted to an end of a pivotally mounted arm. As the needle 5 moves from its first position to its second position, it pierces the fabric layers provided on the throat plate 11. This pierces the first thread 8 through the fabric layers, presenting it on the second side of the throat plate 11. As it does so, the arm is pivoted, causing the looping hook to form the presented section of the first thread into a loop. Furthermore, the needle 5 passes through the centre of the loop made by the looping hook in the previous needle cycle. The serrated teeth 111, 112 then shift the fabric layers forward, which causes the loop and the section of the thread 8 that was passed through the loop, to form a stitch. The process is then repeated along the fabric layers to form a seam of a desired length.

Alternatively, the chain stitch sewing machine may use first and second threads to produce the stitches.

These features of a chain stitch sewing machine, and their method of operation, are well known in the art and so will not be described in any further detail.

When the needle 5 is lowered from its first (upper) position to its second (lower) position, and then raised back to its first position, to complete the final stitch of the seam, first and second sections of the looped first thread 8 are received within the needle bore 23.

The first cutting member 12 is then moved from its first position to its second position, to cut the first and second sections of the first thread 8 along said cutting plane 100. This cuts the first and second sections of the first thread 8 close to the adjacent surface of the fabric layers such that the cut first and second sections that extend from the layer of fabric have lengths thai are less than or equal to the thickness of the throat plate 11 respectively. This produces thread ends with a relatively short length i.e. which extend a relatively short length from the adjacent surface of the fabric fayer. This provides the above described advantages.

The first cutting member 12 is movable back, from its second position, to its first position, so that it is ready to perform another cut. Referring now to figures 12 to 19, there is shown a throat plate assembly 200 according to a second embodiment of the invention. Where the throat plate assembly 200 of the second embodiment has the same features as a throat plate assembly 3 of the first embodiment, like reference numerals have been used.

The throat plate assembly 200 of the second embodiment is the same as the throat plate assembly 3 of the first embodiment except in that the throat plate assembly 200 is not provided with said slots for serrated teeth of a fabric actuator assembly.

In addition, the first cutting member 12 is pivotatly mounted to the second surface 30 of the first section 28 of the throat plate 11 so as to rotate relative to the throat plate 11 between its first position, as shown in figures 12 and 14 to its second position as shown in figures 13 and 15.

Figures 18a to c and Figures 19a to c show the sequential steps in the assembly of the first and second sections 28, 29 of the throat plate 11. The first section 28 of the throat plate 11 is laid on top of the second section 29, with the second surface 30 of the first section 28 and the first surface 31 of the second section 29 opposed and in contact with each other. The first and second sections 28, 29 are releasabiy attached to each other by a plurality of fasteners in the form of screws (not shown) passed through respective aligned apertures 41 in the first and second sections 28, 29.

The first and second cutting members 12, 13 form a first cutting assembly, A second cutting assembly 300 is mounted on the second surface 22 of the throat plate assembly 200. The second cutting assembly 300 comprises a first cutting member 301 and a second cutting member 302 (see Figure 17). The first cutting member 301 Is pivotally mounted to the second surface 22 about a pivot point 303 for rotation relative to the second cutting member 302 from a first position to a second position so as to cut the thread 8 along a cutting plane that is located below the second surface 22 of the throat plate 200.

The first embodiment of the throat plate assembly 3 may comprise the second cutting assembly 300 of the second embodiment. The throat plate assembly of the second embodiment is for use on a button sewing machine or a bar tack sewing machine,

Referring to Figure 20, the throat piate assembly 200 of the second embodiment is shown installed on a button sewing machine 450. The button sewing machine 450 uses a single thread. The presser foot 6 is provided with a button holder 400, typically in the form of a pair of opposed jaws 401, 402 mounted to an arm 403. A button is mounted on the button holder 400 and the button holder 400 is lowered so as to press the fabric against the throat plate 11. When the button is mounted onto the button holder 400, the holes in the button are aligned in a correct orientation relative to the needle 5. As the needle 5 moves up and down between its first and second positions, the button is moved backwards and forwards, as well as from side to side in the lateral direction, by the presser foot 6 {which is connected to an actuator), so that the first thread 8 passes from the upper side of the fabric to the lower side of the fabric through each of the button holes, thereby stitching the button to the fabric. In a button sewing machine, there are no serrated teeth, or slots in the throat plate 11, as the fabric is moved by the movable presser foot 6. These features of a button stitch sewing machine, and their method of operation, are well known in the art and so will not be described in any further detail.

When the needle 5 is lowered from its first (upper) position to its second (lower) position, and then raised back to its first position, to complete the final stitch of the button to the fabric, a section of the first thread 8 is received within the needle bore 23.

The first cutting member 12 is then moved from its first position to its second position, to cut the section of the first thread 8 along said cutting plane 100, i.e. along a cutting plane that is located between the second surface 22 of the throat plate 11 and the first surface 21 of the throat piate 11. This cuts the first thread 8 close to the adjacent surface of the fabric layer such that the section of the cut thread that extends from the layer of fabric has a length that is less than or equal to the thickness of the throat plate 11 respectively. This produces a thread end with a relatively short length i.e. which extends a relatively short length from the adjacent surface of the fabric layer. This provides the above described advantages.

Referring to Figure 21, the throat plate assembly 200 of the second embodiment is shown installed on a bar tack sewing machine 550. In a bar tack sewing machine, the presser foot 6 is provided with a laterally extending slot 501. The presser foot 6 is lowered so as to clamp the fabric against the throat plate 11, As the needle 5 moves up and down, the presser foot 6 is moved side to side in the lateral direction, by an actuator, so as to produce a zigzag stitch. The zigzag stitch is used to provide reinforcement to areas of a garment, !n the bar tack sewing machine 550, there are no serrated teeth, or slots in the throat piate 11 , as the fabric is moved by the movable presser foot 6.

These features of a bar tack sewing machine, and their method of operation, are weil known in the art and so will not be described in any further detail. When the needle 5 is lowered from its first (upper) position to its second (lower) position, and then raised back to its first position, to complete the final stitch of the seam, a section of the first thread 8 is received within the needle bore 23.

The first cutting member 12 is then moved from its first position to its second position, to cut the section of the first thread 8 along said cutting plane 100. This cuts the first thread 8 close to the adjacent surface of the fabric layer such that the section of the cut thread that extends from the layer of fabric has a length that is less than or equal to the thickness of the throat plate 11 respectively. This produces a thread end with a relatively short length i.e. which extends a relatively short length from the adjacent surface of the fabric layer. This provides the above described advantages. in relation to second cutting assembly 300, when used with either the first or second embodiments of the throat plate assembly, once a desired length of seam has been sewn (or a button has been sewn to the layer of fabric), the first cutting member 301 of the second cutting assembly 300 performs a first cut of the sections of the first thread 8, or of the first and second threads, received within the needle bore 23. Because the cutting plane of the second cutting assembly 300 is located below the second surface of the throat plate 11 , this ensures that the cut sections of the first thread 8, or of the first and second threads, that extend from the needle or the bobbin respectively are long enough for a subsequent stitch to be formed (e.g. when a new seam is started). This therefore avoids the problem of 'skipped stitch' occurring. The first cutting member 12 is then moved from its first position to its second position, to perform a second cut of the thread, along said cutting plane 100, to produce short thread end(s) with the above described advantages. In light of the above, it can be seen that a throat plate assembly according to the present invention provides a throat plate assembly that is suitable for use on a number of different types of sewing machines, that is able to cut one or more threads such that its length is less than or equal to the thickness of the throat plate 11 respectively. This produces thread end(s) 600 with a relatively short length i.e. which extends a relatively small length from the adjacent surface of the fabric layer. This is more aesthetically pleasing and therefore allows articles that are sewn by a sewing machine comprising the throat plate of the invention, to be of a higher quality, Furthermore, in order to obtain such a short thread end lengths, it is not necessary for a subsequent manual cutting operation to be performed, in order to cut the thread end to a desired length. This makes the process less labour-intensive, thereby saving cost. It also reduces the risk of damage to the article, which can occur during such a manual cutting operation, relative to other causes of quality defect. Such damage can be relatively costly. In addition, the stiffness of the throat plate 11 is substantially maintained.

The described and illustrated embodiments are to be considered as illustrative and not restrictive in character, it being understood that only the preferred embodiments have been shown and described and that ail changes and modifications that come within the scope of the inventions as defined in the claims are desired to be protected.

For example, in the above described embodiments the throat plate assembly 3, 200 comprises first and second cutting members 12, 13. However, it will be appreciated that only a single cutting member 12 may be used.

In addition, it will be appreciated that the throat plate 11 may have different plan form shapes, for example square, rectangular, etc.

Furthermore, the throat plate 11 may not be spit exactly in half in the thickness direction, with the first and second sections 28, 29 of the throat plate 11 being of differing thicknesses, In the described embodiments the second cutting member 13 is fixed to the throat plate 11. However, it will be appreciated that the second cutting member 13 may also be movable from a first position to a second position, relative to the throat plate 11 so as to cut the thread 8, It should be understood that while the use of words such as "preferable", "preferably", "preferred" or "more preferred" in the description suggest that a feature so described may be desirabie, it may nevertheless not be necessary and embodiments lacking such a feature may be contemplated as within the scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims. In relation to the claims, it is intended that when words such as "a," "an," "at least one," or "at (east one portion" are used to preface a feature there is no intention to limit the claim to only one such feature unless specifically stated to the contrary in the claim. When the language "at least a portion" and/or "a portion" is used the item can include a portion and/or the entire item unless specificaHy stated to the contrary.