The present invention relates to a method for changing the pigmentation of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair with a compound of general formula (I), a cosmetic use of said compound of general formula (I), to cosmetic compositions comprising said compound of general formula (I), and to new depigmenting agents. The pigmentation of the skin covers a variety of skin colors, from darkest brown to the lightest hues. The pigmentation of hair also covers a diversity of shades, such as blond, brown, black, red and red blond.

The whiteness of the skin is particularly important for Asian populations which associate this criterion to beauty and social rank. Hyperpigmented spots such as ephelis, lentigines, "cafe au lait" spots and naevi are universally considered unaesthetic. The relative demand for depigmenting agents, methods and compositions is thus considerable.

The darkness of the skin is also particularly important for Caucasian populations. A tanned skin is indeed commonly perceived as healthy and aesthetic. Moreover, Kollias, N et al. have shown in J. Photochem Photobiol B, 1991 , 9(2), pp. 135-160, that a darkly pigmented skin has a 70-fold higher protection against skin cancer than fair skin. It is possible to darken the skin by sunbathing or exposure to artificial UV light. However, both of these practices are not recommended due to the risk of sunburn and increase of skin cancer. The relative demand for pigmentation enhancers, referred to as pigmenting agents, and pigmentation enhancing methods and compositions is thus considerable.

In human beings, the color of skin is determined by diverse pigments such as blood hemoglobin, carotenoids, bilirubin and melanin. The latter is by far the main factor that determines skin coloring. The predominant physiological role of melanin is to protect the skin against ultraviolet rays which enhance the ageing process and the risk of developing skin cancer. Solar exposition triggers melanogenesis which is due to an adaptive response of melanocytes which are cells located in the basal layer of the epidermis that specialize in melanin biogenesis. When they are irradiated by UV rays, keratinocytes secrete a-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone) which is bound to melanocytes via receptors and thus induces transduction pathways and activates transcription factors that stimulate melanin production. Melanin is stored in vesicular structures called melanosomes which are subsequently matured in melanocytes and transported in the multiple melanocyte indentations as described in Nature Reviews, Molecular Cell Biology, Vol. 2, October 2001 , p. 738-748. The transported melanosomes are then transferred to the skin keratinocytes which lead to melanin migrating through the successive layers of skin to the strateum corneum and the consecutive darkening of the skin. Hyperpigmentation results from an excess of melanin in the skin due to extrinsic factors such as photosensitizing agents, physical and/or chemical lesions, and inflammation; or intrinsic factors such as endocrinal, metabolic and/or genetic disorders. Melanogenesis is a complex process that implies successive enzymatic transformations of tyrosine catalyzed by tyrosinase, TRP1 (Tyrosinase Related Protein 1 ) and TRP2 (Tyrosinase Related Protein 2). Tyrosinase has been identified as the key enzyme in melanin production. The transcription of genes coding melanogenic enzymes is regulated by Mitf transcription factor which is itself controlled by different signaling pathways such as Wnt, P38, MAPK or AMPc.

The pigmentation of hair is due to two types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Pheomelanin gives a red pigmentation to hair. Eumelanin is divided into two sub-groups: black eumelanin and brown eumelanin, and is responsible for the dark or light pigmentation of hair. Levels of melanin can vary over time causing a person's hair color to change. The main strategies used to lighten the skin are based on inhibiting melanogenesis enzymes or the regulators that express them, blocking the transfer of melanosomes in keratinocytes or stimulating desquamation. Currently marketed depigmenting agents mainly target tyrosinase inhibition and include kojic acid, arbutin, hydroquinone, vitamin C and azelaic acid. However, these compounds exhibit one of the following drawbacks: low stability, low efficiency, undesirable secondary effects such as skin irritation, toxicity towards melanocytes or even carcinogen activity. These negative aspects have substantially limited the use of these compounds as depigmenting agents. Toxicity issues have even led Japanese authorities to prohibit kojic acid and hydroquinone has been banned by the European Committee (24 ^th Dir 2000/6/EC) from cosmetic compositions to lighten the skin. The use of vitamin C and arbutin has been limited by their instability with respect to respectively oxidation and certain enzymes present in the skin. As such, there is a need for new depigmenting agents that are stable, efficient and non-toxic.

Conventional self-tanners do not interfere with the production of melanin but rather rely on the use of a chemical, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or erythrulose, that reacts with proteins in the dead cells of the skin to produce a brown substance. However, the tanning effect obtained is not homogeneous and it disappears when the dead cells are desquamated, typically in two to three weeks after application of the self-tanner. It is known that injections of a-melanocyte stimulating hormone (aMSH) lead to an increase of skin pigmentation, as disclosed in Lerner et al. Effect of alpha- and betamelanocyte stimulating hormones on the skin colour of man in Nature, 1961 , 489, pp.176-179. More recently, it has been shown that injections of, [Nle4-D-Phe7]-aMSH, a potent aMSH analogue, leads to an average of 41 % increase of melanin in subjects with high sun-sensitivity, as disclosed in Barneston et al. [Nle4-D-Phe7]-alpha-melanocyte- stimulating hormone significantly increased pigmentation and decreased UV damage in fair-skinned Caucasian volunteers in J. Invest. Dermatol. 2006, 126(8), pp.1869-1878. However, the necessity to inject the pigmenting agents represents a serious drawback of these methods. As such, there is a need for stable, efficient and non-toxic pigmenting agents that can be administered topically.

An object of the present invention is therefore a method for changing the pigmentation of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair in a patient, said method comprising topically administering to said patient an effective amount of a compound of general formula (I):

(D

wherein

Ri is H or hydroxy;

R ₂ is H or methoxy;

R ₃ is selected from alkenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy or phenyl; C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl; benzyl; and -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NR

R ₄ is H or methoxy;

R ₅ is H, hydroxy or methoxy;

R ₆ is selected in the group consisting of -CH ₂ -Ph; -COOH; -CHO; -CH=CH-COOH; -CH=CH-CHO; -CH=CH-CH ₂ OH; -CO-CH=CH-Ph; wherein Ph is a phenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy; -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH; and -(CH ₂ ) _n -OH with n=1 , 2 or 3; or R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an optionally substituted fused 5,6- dihydropyran-2-one ring or an optionally substituted fused 2,3-dihydro-1 ,4-naphthalenedione system ;

R ₇ and R ₈ are each independently CrC ₃ alkyl or R ₇ and R ₈ form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a five-membered ring;

with the proviso that when R ₆ is -CHO then R ₃ is selected from alkenyl.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a compound of general formula (I) as defined above, to induce lightening or darkening of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair; to improve the uniformity of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair; to prevent, reduce and/or remove hyperpigmented or hypopigmented spots; and/or to prevent, reduce and/or remove gray and/or white hair.

Yet another object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one compound of general formula (I) as defined above and/or at least one plant extract containing a compound of general formula (I),

with the proviso that said compound of general formula (I) is not umbelliprenin, tesmilifene or PBPE having the following formulae:

Alternatively, another objet of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one compound of general formula (I) and/or at least one plant extract containing a compound of general formula (I), and mixtures thereof,

wherein said compound of general formula (I) is selected from umbelliprenin, tesmilifene or PBPE which have the following formulae:

wherein said composition further comprises at least one UV-filter or wherein said composition further comprises at least one second depigmenting agent other than umbelliprenin, tesmilifene or PBPE, with the proviso that said at least one UV-filter does not correspond to general formula (II)

(Π)

wherein R ₃ is alkenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy.

The present invention also relates to new compounds of general formula (I) as defined above, with the proviso that the compound of general formula (I) is not 

Description of figures

Figure 1 shows the effect of umbelliprenin and kojic acid (KA) on the level of basal melanin in a cell line of murine melanocytes.

Figure 2 shows the effect of PBPE and tesmilifene (Tes) on the level of basal melanin in a cell line of murine melanocytes.

Figure 3 shows the effect of umbelliprenin (Umb), PBPE and tesmilifene (Tes) on melanin synthesis in presence of a-MSH in a cell line of murine melanocytes.

Figure 4 shows the effect of umbelliprenin (Umb), PBPE and tesmilifene (Tes) on melanin synthesis in a cell line of murine melanocytes that have been previously irradiated with UV rays.

Figure 5 shows the effect of umbelliprenin (Umb), PBPE and tesmilifene (Tes) alone or in combination on melanin synthesis in a cell line of normal murine melanocytes. Figure 6 shows the melanin level and the tyrosinase enzymatic activity measured in lysates of murine melanocytes obtained from murine melanocytes that have been previously treated with umbelliprenin (Umb), PBPE, kojic acid or tesmilifene (Tes).

Figure 7 is a photography of a cell pellet of murine melanocytes treated with a solvent carrier or by umbelliprenin.

Figure 8 shows the effect of umbelliprenin, PBPE and tesmilifene on the expression of genes coding for tyrosinase, Mitf, TRP1 and TRP2.

Figure 9 shows the effect of umbelliprenin, PBPE and tesmilifene on the viability of murine melanocytes. Definitions

The term "changing the pigmentation of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair" means that the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or hair becomes lighter or darker compared to the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or hair before the compound of general formula (I) is topically administered to a patient. The lightening or darkening effect of the compounds of general formula I on the skin, the mucous membrane or hair may be assessed in vitro by determining the melanin content in normal murine melanocytes seeded for 48 hours with a compound of general formula (I) according to the Test Method disclosed in Example 9 of the present application. Compounds of general formula (I) are considered to darken the pigmentation of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair if the melanin content in normal murine melanocytes seeded for 48 hours with a compound of general formula (I) in vitro is more than 1 10% compared to the control (untreated melanocyte). Compounds of general formula (I) are considered to lighten the pigmentation of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair if the melanin content in normal murine melanocytes seeded for 48 hours with a compound of general formula (I) in vitro is less than 90% compared to the control (untreated melanocyte). The term "topically administering to said patient" means that the compound of general formula (I) is applied to the area which needs to be treated on a patient, i.e. to the skin, to a mucous membrane or to the hair that needs to be lightened or darkened.

The term "an effective amount" means the amount of a compound of general formula (I) that, when administered to the patient for lightening or darkening the skin, the mucous membrane or the hair, is sufficient to effect such lightening or darkening. The effective amount will vary depending on the compound of general formula (I), the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or the hair and the age, weight, etc... of the patient.

The term alkyl" means a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical of formula wherein n is an integer equal to 1 , 2 or 3. The term "C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl" means a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical of formula wherein n is an integer equal to 2, 3, 4 or 5.

The term "C3-C15 alkenyl" means a branched or unbranched unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1 1 , 12, 13, 14 or 15 carbon atoms and 1 , 2 or 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.

The term "C3-C15 alkenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy or phenyl" means a C3-C15 alkenyl as defined above wherein a hydrogen atom is optionally replaced with a hydroxy or a phenyl group.

The term "unsubstituted C3-C15 alkenyl" means a C3-C15 alkenyl as defined above which comprises only hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The term "C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl" means a branched or unbranched unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and 1 or 2 carbon-carbon triple bonds.

wherein the undulated lines represent the points of attachment of the 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring to the ring of general formula (I) (optional substituents on the 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring are not shown).

The term "fused 2,3-dihydro-1 ,4-naphthalenedione system" means a system having the following formula:

wherein the undulated lines represent the points of attachment of the fused 2, 3-dihydro-1 ,4- naphthalenedione system to the ring of general formula (I) (optional substituents on the 2,3-dihydro-1 ,4- naphthalenedione system are not shown).

The term "five-membered ring" means a cyclic compound comprising a ring of 5 atoms.

The term "cosmetic composition" means a composition intended to be administered topically, said composition exhibiting a color, a smell and a texture that do not generate inacceptable discomfort to the user, such as itching, tightness and redness of the skin, the mucous membrane or the scalp.

The term "cosmetically acceptable carrier" means a carrier that is not toxic and may be applied on the skin, the mucous membrane or the hair of a mammal.

Method

The method for changing the pigmentation of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair in a patient according to the present invention comprises topically administering to said patient an effective amount of a compound of general formula (I).

In the method of the present invention, the compound of general formula (I) is the active responsible for changing the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or the hair. Compounds of general formula (I) can either be pigmenting agents, i.e. agents that darken the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or the hair, or depigmenting agent, i.e. agents that lighten the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or the hair.

The compound used in method of the present invention corresponds to general formula (I) below:

(D

wherein

Ri is H or hydroxy;

R ₂ is H or methoxy; R ₃ is selected from alkenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy or phenyl; C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl; benzyl; and -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NR

R ₄ is H or methoxy;

R ₅ is H, hydroxy or methoxy;

R ₆ is selected in the group consisting of -CH ₂ -Ph; -COOH; -CHO; -CH=CH-COOH; -CH=CH-CHO; -CH=CH-CH ₂ OH; -CO-CH=CH-Ph; wherein Ph is a phenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy; -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH; and -(CH ₂ ) _n -OH with n=1 , 2 or 3;

or R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an optionally substituted fused 5,6- dihydropyran-2-one ring or an optionally substituted fused 2,3-dihydro-1 ,4-naphthalenedione system ;

R ₇ and R ₈ are each independently C1 -C3 alkyl or R ₇ and R ₈ form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a five-membered ring;

with the proviso that when R ₆ is -CHO then R ₃ is selected from alkenyl.

Preferably, when R ₃ is selected from C ₃ -C ₄ alkenyl; C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl and benzyl, then R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an optionally substituted fused 5,6-dihydropyran-2- one ring.

Preferably, when R ₃ is -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NR ₇ R ₈ , then R ₆ is -CH ₂ -Ph.

According to a first embodiment of the method of the present invention, the compound corresponds to general formula (I) wherein

Ft, is H;

R ₂ and R ₄ are each independently H or methoxy;

R ₃ is unsubstituted alkenyl;

R ₅ is H, hydroxy or methoxy; and

R ₆ is selected in the group consisting of -CH ₂ -Ph; -COOH; -CHO; -CH=CH-COOH; -CH=CH-CHO; -CH=CH-CH ₂ OH; -CO-CH=CH-Ph; wherein Ph is a phenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy; -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH; and -(CH ₂ ) _n -OH with n=1 , 2 or 3.

In particular, the R ₃ group of the compound of the first embodiment of the method of the present invention is selected in the group consisting of unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 5 carbon atoms and 1 unsaturation, unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 10 carbon atoms and 2 unsaturations and unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 15 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations. More particularly, said R ₃ group may be (-CH ₂ - CH=C(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ ) _m -H wherein m is 1 , 2 or 3. Even more particularly, said R ₃ group may be selected from isopentenyl (m=1 ), geranyl (m=2) or farnesyl (m=3).

In particular, the Ri , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ and R ₅ groups of the compound of the first embodiment of the method of the present invention are as defined above and the R ₆ group is selected in the group consisting of -COOH; -CHO; -CH=CH-COOH.

According to a second embodiment of the method of the present invention, the compound corresponds to general formula (I) wherein

R ₃ is -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NR ₇ R ₈ ;

R ₆ is -CH ₂ -Ph; and

R ₇ and R ₈ are each independently C1 -C3 alkyl or R ₇ and R ₈ form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a five-membered ring. In particular, the R ₇ and R ₈ groups of the compound of the second embodiment of the method of the present invention may each be ethyl or R ₇ and R ₈ may form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a pyrrolidine ring.

According to a third embodiment of the method of the present invention, the compound corresponds to general formula (I) wherein R ₂ is H or methoxy;

R ₃ is selected from alkenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy or phenyl; C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl; and benzyl;

R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an optionally substituted fused 5,6- dihydropyran-2-one ring.

In particular, the R ₅ and R ₆ groups of the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention may form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, a fused 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring that is optionally substituted with one or two groups selected from methyl, -C(=0)CH ₃ , -COOH and CI.

As such, the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention may correspond to general formula (lla) or to general formula (l ib):

(Ila) (Hb)

wherein

R ₂ is H or methoxy;

R ₃ is selected from alkenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy or phenyl; C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl; and benzyl; and

R ₉ and R ₁₀ are independently selected from H, methyl, -C(=0)CH ₃ , -COOH and CI.

In particular, the R ₂ , R ₉ and R ₁₀ groups of the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention are as defined above and the R ₃ group is a branched alkenyl with 5 carbon atoms and 1 unsaturation that is optionally substituted by one hydroxy group. More particularly, said R ₃ group may be selected from isopentenyl (-CH ₂ -CH=C(CH ₃ )-CH ₃ ) or hydroxyisopentenyl (-CH ₂ -CH=C(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -OH) .

Alternatively, the R ₂ , R ₉ and R ₁₀ groups of the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention are as defined above and the R ₃ group is an unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 10 carbon atoms and two unsaturations or an unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 15 carbon atoms and three unsaturations. More particularly, said R ₃ group may be geranyl ([-CH ₂ -CH=C(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ ] ₂ -H) or farnesyl ([- CH ₂ -CH=C(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ ] ₃ -H).

Alternatively, the R ₂ , R ₉ and R ₁₀ groups of the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention are as defined above and the R ₃ group is a linear alkenyl with 3 or 4 carbon atoms and one unsaturation that is optionally substituted by a phenyl group. More particularly, said R ₃ group may be allyl (-CH ₂ -CH=CH ₂ ), but-2-enyl (-CH ₂ -CH=CH-CH ₃ ) or cinnamyl (-CH ₂ -CH=CH-Ph).

Alternatively, the R ₂ , R ₉ and R ₁₀ groups of the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention are as defined above and the R ₃ group is an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl with 2, 3, 4 or 5 carbon atoms. More particularly, said R ₃ group may be ethyl, n-propyl or isopentyl (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₃ ).

Alternatively, the R ₂ , R ₉ and R ₁₀ groups of the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention are as defined above and the R ₃ group may be an unsubstituted linear or branched alkynyl with 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and one insaturation. More particularly, said R ₃ group may be pent-2- ynyl (-CH ₂ -C≡C-CH ₂ -CH ₃ )

Alternatively, the R ₂ , R ₉ and R ₁₀ groups of the compound of the third embodiment of the method of the present invention are as defined above and the R ₃ group is a benzyl group (-CH ₂ -Ph).

According to a fourth embodiment of the method of the present invention, the compound corresponds to general formula (I) wherein R ₂ and R ₄ are H;

R ₃ is unsubstituted alkenyl;

R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an optionally substituted fused 2,3- dihydro-1 ,4-naphthalenedione system.

Preferably, said fused 2, 3-dihydro-1 ,4-naphthalenedione system is substituted with at least one substituent selected from OH and Me, more preferably, said 2, 3-dihydro-1 ,4-naphthalenedione system is substituted by at least one OH group and at least one Me group.

As such, the compound of the fourth embodiment of the method of the present invention may correspond to general formula (III):

(III)

wherein R ₃ is unsubstituted alkenyl.

In particular, the R ₃ group of the compound of the fourth embodiment of the present invention is selected in the group consisting of unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 5 carbon atoms and 1 unsaturation, unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 10 carbon atoms and 2 unsaturations and unsubstituted branched alkenyl with 15 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations. More particularly, said R ₃ group may be (-CH ₂ -CH=C(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ ) _P -H wherein p is 1 , 2 or 3. Even more particularly, said R ₃ group may be selected from isopentenyl (p=1 ), geranyl (p=2) or farnesyl (p=3). Preferably, said R ₃ group is geranyl.

The compound used in the method of the present invention may notably be selected in the group consisting of:

and mixtures thereof.

According to a fifth embodiment of the method of the present invention, the method is a method for lightening a skin, a mucous membrane or hair in a patient, and the compound corresponds to general formula (I), wherein

Ri is H or hydroxy;

R ₂ is H;

R ₃ is an unsubstituted branched alkenyl or -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NR

R ₄ is H; R ₅ is H or methoxy;

R ₆ is -CH ₂ -Ph or -CHO;

or R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an optionally substituted fused 5,6- dihydropyran-2-one ring or an optionally substituted fused 2,3-dihydro-1 ,4-naphthalenedione system ;

R ₇ and R ₈ are each independently Ci -C ₃ alkyl or R ₇ and R ₈ form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a five-membered ring;

with the proviso that when R ₅ is H, R ₃ is-CH2-CH ₂ -NR ₇ R8-

In particular, when R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an unsubstituted fused 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring, R ₃ may be an unsubstituted branched alkenyl.

Alternatively, when R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, a substituted fused 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring, R ₃ may be an unsubstituted branched C10-C15 alkenyl.

Preferably, the compound of general formula (I) of the fifth embodiment of the method of the present invention is a depigmenting agent selected in the group consisting of:

According to a sixth embodiment of the method of the present invention, the method is a method for darkening a skin, a mucous membrane or hair in a patient, and the compound corresponds to general formula (I), wherein

Ft, is H;

R ₂ is H or methoxy;

R ₃ is selected from C ₃ -Ci ₅ alkenyl optionally substituted by phenyl; C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl; and benzyl; R ₄ is H or methoxy;

R ₅ is H;

R ₆ is -COOH or -CH=CH-COOH;

or R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an optionally substituted fused 5,6- dihydropyran-2-one ring.

In particular, when R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an unsubstituted fused 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring, R ₃ may be selected from unsubstituted branched C ₃ -Ci ₀ alkenyl optionally substituted by phenyl; C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl; and benzyl.

Alternatively, when R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an unsubstituted fused 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring, R ₂ may be methoxy.

Alternatively, when R ₅ and R ₆ form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, a substituted fused 5,6-dihydropyran-2-one ring, R ₃ may be an unsubstituted branched C ₅ alkenyl.

Preferably, the compound of general formula (I) of the sixth embodiment of the method of the present invention is a pigmenting agent selected in the group consisting of:

The compound of general formula (I) used in the method of the present invention may be prepared according to various methods well known in the art.

For example, a compound of general formula (I) in which R ₃ is C3-C15 alkenyl, C ₂ -C ₅ alkyl; C ₃ -C ₆ alkynyl, benzyl or -CH2-CH2 route detailed hereinafter:

wherein Ri , R ₂ , R ₄ , R5 and R ₆ are as previously defined and X is CI or Br.

The method of the present invention comprises topically administering to the skin, the mucous membrane or hair of a patient a compound of general formula (I) as defined above. In particular, said compound may be administered on at least an area of the skin, for example the face, the neck, the arms, the hands, the legs, the feet, the chest. Said compound may also be applied on at least an area of a mucous membrane, for example the lips, the genital area, the anus. Said compound may also be applied on at least an area comprising hair, for example the scalp. Said compound may also be applied on an area of the skin that is hyperpigmented, i.e. on a hyperpigmented spot or patch, for example a chloasma, freckles, an ephelis, a naevi, lentigines, in particular lentigo simplex, age-related spots, remaining islands of skin colour in vitiligo and erythrasma patches. Alternatively, said compound may also be applied on an area of the skin that is hypopigmented, i.e. on a hypopigmented spot or patch, for example vitiligo patches, leprosy lesions, tinea versicolor patches, progressive macular hypomelanosis patches, pityriasis alba patches, piebaldism patches, idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis spots.

According to an embodiment of the method of the present invention, the topical administration of the compound of general formula (I) is carried out at least once a day, in particular at least once a day during at least a week, more particularly at least once a day during at least a month.

Cosmetic use

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a compound of general formula (I) to induce lightening or darkening of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair; to improve the uniformity of a skin, a mucous membrane or hair; to prevent, reduce and/or remove hyperpigmented or hypopigmented spots; and/or to prevent, reduce and/or remove gray or white hair.

The compound of general formula (I) of the cosmetic use according to the present invention is as previously defined for the method of the present invention. According to an embodiment of the cosmetic use of the present invention, said compound of general formula (I) may be used for preventing, reducing and/or removing hyperpigmented spots selected in the group consisting of chloasma, freckles, ephelis, naevi, lentigines, in particular lentigo simplex, age-related spots, and remaining islands of skin colour in vitiligo, and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, said compound may also be used for preventing, reducing and/or removing hypopigmented spots or patches, for example vitiligo patches, leprosy lesions, tinea versicolor patches, progressive macular hypomelanosis patches, pityriasis alba patches, piebaldism patches, idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis spots.

According to another embodiment of the cosmetic use of the present invention, said compound of general formula (I) may be used for preventing, reducing and/or removing gray or white hair. It is believed that the prevention, reduction and/or removal of gray or white hair is due to stimulation of melanin biogenesis by the compound of general formula (I).

Cosmetic composition

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one compound of general formula (I) and/or at least one plant extract containing a compound of general formula (I), and optionally at least one UV-filter.

The compound of general formula (I) of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is as previously defined for the method of the present invention.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one compound of general formula (I) and/or at least one plant extract containing a compound of general formula (I). In particular, the cosmetic composition may comprise a mixture of at least two compounds of general formula (I) according to the invention; a mixture of at least two plant extracts containing said compound of general formula (I); or a mixture of at least one compound of general formula (I) and at least one plant extract containing a compound of general formula (I).

In particular, the plant extract containing a compound of general formula (I) that may be introduced in the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be selected in the group consisting of a plant extract from the genus Ferula, in particular Ferula szowitsiana, Ferula sinkiangensis, Ferula assa-foetida, Ferula tunetana, Ferula flabelliloba, Ferula fukanensis, Ferula persica and Ferula aitchisonii; a plant extract from the genus Angelica, in particular Angelica sylvestris, Angelica komarovii, Angelica pubescens, Angelica pachycarpa, Angelica decursiva, Angelica archangelica and Angelica ursina; a Pimpinella anisum extract; an Anethum graveolens extract;, a Ferulago campestris extract, a Cicuta virosa exfract, a Seseli annuum extract; a Peucedanum zenkeri seed extract; a Thapsia villosa fruit extract; a Scandix pecten-veneris extract; a Scabiosa comosa extract; a Heracleum sphondylium extract; an Ammi majus extract; a Xanthogalum sachokianum extract; a Thamnosa montana extract; a Ligusticum seguieri extract; and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the plant extract containing a compound of general formula (I) may be selected from an extract of Pimpinella anisium, preferably Pimpinella anisium seeds, an extract of Anethum graveolens, preferably an extract of Anethum graveolens seeds, an extract of Ferulago Campestris, preferably an extract of Ferulago Campestris trunks.

Plant extracts comprising a compound of general formula (I) can, for example, be obtained by solid-liquid extraction of at least one part of a plant selected in the group consisting of a plant from the genus Ferula, in particular Ferula szowitsiana, Ferula sinkiangensis, Ferula assa-foetida, Ferula tunetana, Ferula flabelliloba, Ferula fukanensis, Ferula persica and Ferula aitchisonii; a plant from the genus Angelica, in particular Angelica sylvestris, Angelica komarovii, Angelica pubescens, Angelica pachycarpa, Angelica decursiva, Angelica archangelica and Angelica ursina; Pimpinella anisum; Anethum graveolens; Ferulago campestris; Cicuta virosa; Seseli annuum; Peucedanum zenkeri seeds; Thapsia villosa fruits; Scandix pecten-veneris; Scabiosa comosa; Heracleum sphondylium; Ammi majus; Xanthogalum sachokianum; Thamnosa montana; Ligusticum seguieri; and mixtures thereof; with an extraction solvent.

In particular, the extraction solvent may be selected from water; an alcohol, such as ethanol or methanol; an alkane; ethyl acetate; dimethylformamide; dimethylsulfoxide; and mixtures thereof.

The extraction solvent may further comprise a solubilization additive, i.e. an additive which improves the solubility of the compounds of general formula (I) in the extraction solvent. The solubilization additive may be selected from a cyclodextrin, a cyclodextrin derivative, an oil; and mixtures thereof.

Cyclodextrins are cyclic oligosaccharides having glucose molecules linked by a(1→4) glycosidic bonds to form a cylindrical structure. Cyclodextrins form inclusion complexes with hydrophobic substances thus improving their solubility in water.

Examples of suitable cyclodextrins include: a-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, and γ-cyclodextrin. Examples of suitable cyclodextrin derivatives include methyl- -cyclodextrin, 2,6-dimethyl- -cyclodextrin, 2,3,6-trimethyl- β-cyclodextrin, acetylated 2,6-dimethyl- -cyclodextrin, hydroxyethyl- -cyclodextrin, 2-hydroxypropyl- - cyclodextrin, dihydroxypropyl- -cyclodextrin, glycosyl- -cyclodextrin, maltosyl- -cyclodextrin, glucuronyl- glucosyl- -cyclodextrin, 2,6-diethyl- -cyclodextrin, per-o-ethyl- -cyclodextrin, per-o-acetyl- -cyclodextrin, per-o-valeryl- -cyclodextrin, O-carboxymethyl-O-ethyl- -cyclodextrin, sulfate and sulfobutylether β- cyclodextrin, O-carboxymethyl- -cyclodextrin, hydroxytrimethyl-ammoniumpropyl- -cyclodextrin, 2- hydroxypropyl-Y-cyclodextrin, 2-hydroxypropyl-a-cyclodextrin and randomly methylated β-cyclodextrin.

The amount of cyclodextrin that can be added to the solvent used for the extraction is from 0.1 % to 2% w/w, in particular 0.5% to 1 .5% w/w. The term "% w/w" means the percentage by weight of β-cyclodextrin based on the weight of the solvent.

In particular, the extract may be selected from:

- a H ₂ 0/EtOH (70/30 v/v) extract of Pimpinella anisium seeds;

- a H ₂ 0 + β-cyclodextrin (1 .32% w/w) extract of Pimpinella anisium seeds;

- a EtOH extract of Anethum graveolens seeds;

- a H ₂ 0/EtOH (70/30 v/v) + β-cyclodextrin (1 .32% w/w) extract of Anethum graveolens seeds;

- a EtOH extract of Ferulago campestris trunks.

The extraction solvent can be removed by evaporation under vacuum. When the extraction solvent comprises water, the plant extract is extracted with an organic solvent, such as for example dichloromethane, methylethylketone, ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, and said organic solvent is subsequently evaporated under vacuum.

The plant extract may be introduced in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a concentrated form. Alternatively, the plant extract may be diluted in a cosmetically acceptable carrier prior to its introduction in the cosmetic composition.

Prior to its introduction in the cosmetic composition of the invention, the plant extract may be treated with a discoloring agent, ie. an agent that absorbs colored organic impurities and pigments originating from the plants used to prepare the plant extract. Examples of discoloring agents include activated carbon or a solid porous resin.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition may comprise 0.0001 % to 50%, in particular 0.1 % to 20%, more particularly 1 % to 10%, by weight of the compound of general formula (I) based on the weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

The cosmetically acceptable carrier may notably be selected in the group consisting of a solvent, an oily substance, a fatty substance, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises an oily substance.

The solvent used as a cosmetically acceptable carrier may be selected in the group consisting of water, monoalcohols, glycols, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable alcohols that may be used as a cosmetically acceptable carrier include ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol, cyclohexanol, n-propanol, n-butanol; ethers of propylene glycol that are liquid at room temperature such as monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monomethyl ether acetate of propylene glycol, mono-n-butyl ether of dipropylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable glycols that may be used as a cosmetically acceptable carrier include propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable oily substances that may be used as a cosmetically acceptable carrier include vegetable oils such as linseed oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, palm oil, castor oil, corn oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, almond oil, cottonseed oil, alfafa oil, coconut oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, Passiflora incarnata (Passion flower) seed oil sold under reference Cegesoft® PFO by BASF, camellia oleifera seed oil sold under reference Camellia oil by Yokozeki, apricot oil, Olea europaea fruit oil sold under reference Cegesoft® PS 6 by BASF; animal oils, such as perhydrosqualene and fish liver oils; mineral oils, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene, liquid paraffin and mixtures of hydrocarbons; synthetic oils obtained by reacting an alcohol or a polyol with one or more fatty acids, such as purcelline oil, isopropyl myristate and ethylhexyl palmitate; fluorinated oils, such as perfluoropolyethers; silicone oils such as cyclomethicones and dimethicones; emollients such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under reference Cetiol® CC by BASF, coco-caprylate sold under reference Cetiol® C5 by BASF, propylheptyl caprylate sold under reference Cetiol® Sensoft by BASF, methyheptyl isostearate sold under reference Beantree® by ALZO International Inc., caprylic/capric triglyceride sold under reference Waglinol 3/9280 by mani GmbH or under reference Myritol® 318 by BASF; cocoglycerides (modified coconut oil) sold under reference Myritol® 331 by BASF, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable fatty substances that may be used as a cosmetically acceptable carrier include unsaturated fatty acids; vegetable butter such as shea butter and cocoa butter; waxes such as paraffin wax, carnauba wax, beeswax ozokerite, polyethylene wax, tribehenin sold under reference Syncrowax HRC by Croda; silicone waxes; and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition may comprise 5% to 99.9999%, in particular 20% to 99%, more particularly 40% to 95%, by weight of the cosmetically acceptable carrier based on the weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also optionally comprise at least one UV-filter. A UV-filter is a compound that is either able to reflect and scatter UV rays or to absorb UV rays and to dissipate their energy. UV-filters are useful to prevent sun-induced repigmentation of the skin. Furthermore, UV-filters may help to prevent the photodegradation of the compound of general formula (I).

When the compound of general formula (I) is selected in the group consisting of umbelliprenin, tesmilifene or PBPE which have the following formulae:

at least one UV-filter or at least one second depigmenting agent other than umbelliprenin, tesmilifene or PBPE, is necessarily introduced in the composition of the present invention.

When the compound of general formula (I) is not umbelliprenin, tesmilifene or PBPE, at least one UV-filter may or may not be introduced in the composition of the present invention.

The at least one UV-filter that is optionally introduced in the composition of the present invention when the compound of general formula (I) is selected in the group consisting of umbelliprenin, tesmilifene or PBPE does not correspond to general formula (II):

(Π)

wherein R ₃ is alkenyl optionally substituted by hydroxy.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one UV-filter is selected in the group consisting of an organic UV-filter, a mineral UV-filter, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable organic UV-filters that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold under reference Parsol® 1789 by DSM; esters of cinnamic acid such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold under reference Uvinul® MC80 by BASF; salicylates; β-β'-diphenylacrylates; triazines such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under reference Tinosorb® S by BASF; benzophenones such as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under reference Uvinul® A PLUS by BASF; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable mineral UV-filters that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include mineral oxides, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, that may be in the form of pigments or nanopigments, that may be coated or uncoated.

The cosmetic composition may comprise 0.1 % to 40%, in particular 1 % to 10%, more particularly 2% to 5%, by weight of the at least one UV-filter based on the weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one second depigmenting agent or at least one second pigmenting agent.

Indeed, said second depigmenting agent or said second pigmenting agent may have additive or synergistic effect with the compound of general formula (I) with respect to melanin production and its accumulation in the skin, the mucous membrane or hair. The second depigmenting agent may notably be selected in the group consisting of a second depigmenting agent of general formula (I), inhibitors of melanogenesis enzymes, copper chelating agents, antioxidants, inhibitors of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, exfoliants, inhibitors of alpha-MSH production, inhibitors of endothelin production, inhibitors of adrenocorticotropic hormone (ATCH) production, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable second depigmenting agents that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention are selected in the group consisting of hydroquinone, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, resveratrol, trans-retinoic acid, glutathione, vitamin C, vitamin E, N-acetyl-4S-cysteaminylphenol, glabridine, diethyl trioxopimelate, thioctic acid, alpha-hydroxyacids, Morus alba extract, Thea sinensis extract, Chamomilla recutica extract, Ascophylum nodosum extract, and mixtures thereof.

The second pigmenting agent may notably be selected in the group consisting of a second pigmenting agent of general formula (I), self-tanners, agents stimulating alpha-MSH production, protein kinase C activating agents, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable self-tanners include dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or erythrulose.

Examples of suitable agents stimulating alpha-MSH production include tyrosine, Vitamin D metabolites, retinoids such as 9-cis retinoic acid, forskolin, isobutylmethylxanthine, diacylglycerol analogues, and cholera toxin.

An example of a suitable protein kinase C activating agent is Tanositol® (chiro-inositol).

The amount of the second depigmenting agent or second pigmenting agent in the cosmetic composition of the invention will vary depending on the nature of said second depigmenting agent or second pigmenting agent. For example, it is known that the effective amount of kojic acid, azelaic acid or trans-retinoic acid to induce depigmentation of the skin is respectively 1 %, 20% or 0.1 %.

As such, the cosmetic composition may comprise 0.01 % to 25%, in particular 1 % to 10%, more particularly 2% to 5%, by weight of the second depigmenting agent based on the weight of the composition.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition may further comprise an adjuvant selected in the group consisting of a thickener, a water-soluble colorant, a perfume, a vitamin, a surfactant, a preservative, a bactericide, an antioxidant, and mixtures thereof. Such cosmetic ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention, are e.g. described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992). The necessary amounts of the cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants and additives can easily be chosen by a skilled person in this field depending on the desired properties of the resulting composition.

Examples of suitable thickeners that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum, guar gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, gellan, pectins, tragacanth, agar, alginates, carrageenan, furcelleran, konjac; cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable water-soluble colorants that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include organic colorants selected from natural colorants of animal origin such as carminic acid (Carmine or Natural Red 4), colouring material of vegetable origin such as bixin or Natural Orange 4, norbixin, betanin; anthocyans, chlorophyllins, and caramel; synthetic colorants such as molecules possessing at least one group selected from "nitroso" groups (Acid Green 1 etc.), "nitro" groups (Ext D&C Yellow 7, etc.), "azo" groups (Pigment Red 4, Solvent Orange 1 , Solvent Red 3, Solvent Red 23, Pigment Red 57:1 , Food Red 1 , Acid Red 14, Acid Orange 7, FD&C Yellow 6, FD&C Red 40, D&C Red 33, FD&C Yellow 5 etc.), "xanthene" groups (D&C Yellow 8, D&C Orange 5, D&C Red 21 , D&C Red 27, FD&C Red 3), "quinoline" groups (D&C Yellow 10 etc.), "anthraquinone" groups (Ext D&C Violet 2, D&C Green 5 etc.), "indigoid" groups (FD&C Blue 2, D&C Red 30 etc.), "cyanin" groups, in particular the phthalocyanins (Pigment Blue CI 77160 etc.), "triarylmethane" groups; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable perfumes that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include essential oils, myrcene, dihydromyrcenol, citral, tagetone, cis-geranic acid, citronellic acid, limonene, linalool and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable vitamins that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include vitamin B1 (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid), also known as vitamin PP (Pellagra Preventive), vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid), vitamin B6 (pyridoxine), vitamin B8 or H (biotin), vitamin B9 (folic acid), vitamin B12 (cobalamin), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol), vitamin K (phylloquinone), and mixtures thereof.

The surfactant that may be introduced in the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a non- ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant. Examples of suitable surfactants include fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol ; ethoxylated and/or propoxylated fatty alcohols; ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyethylene glycol or a glucoside; fatty esters obtained by reaction of a fatty acid and a polyol such as glycerol, sorbitan, sucrose, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1 , 1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol; ethoxylated and/or propoxylated fatty esters; silicone surfactants such as cetyldimethicone copolyol and modified polyether polysiloxanes; betaine and its derivatives; polyquaterniums; ethoxylated fatty alcohol sulphate salts; sulphosuccinates; sarcosinates; alkyl- and dialkyl phosphates and their salts such as potassium cetyl phosphate; soaps of fatty acids; and mixtures thereof. In particular, the surfactant may be a mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate sold under reference Arlacel® 1690 by Croda or polyglyreryl-3-ricinoleate sold under reference Soldoc PGRP by mani GmbH.

Examples of suitable preservatives and bactericides that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include benzoic acid, propionic acid, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, pyrithione zinc, triclosan, chlorobutanol, chlorocresol, triclocarban, 2-phenoxyethanol, 2-bromo-2- nitropropane-1 ,3-diol, inorganic sulfites and bisulfites, salts thereof, esters thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable antioxidants that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate sold under reference Tinogard® TT by BASF, tocopherol, butyrate hydroxyl toluene and topheryl acetate.

The cosmetic composition may comprise 0.1 % to 20%, in particular 1 % to 10%, more particularly 2% to 5%, by weight of the adjuvant based on the weight of the composition.

Additionally, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise a photostabilizer or a mixture thereof. Photostabilizers are indeed useful to prevent the photodegradation of the at least one UV- filter that is optionally introduced in the composition of the present invention. More particularly, photostabilizers are able to prevent the formation of reactive intermediates of photo-unstable UV-filters. Indeed, these photoproducts may be toxic and may, for example lead to allergic reactions or contact dermatitis when they come into direct contact with the skin. Examples of suitable photostabilizers that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention include 3,3-diphenylacrylate derivatives such as e.g. octocrylene (PARSOL® 340) or polyester-8 (Polycrylene®) or methoxycrylene (Solastay® S1 ); benzylidene camphor derivatives such as e.g. 4-methyl benzylidene camphor (PARSOL® 5000); benzalmalonate derivatives such as e.g. polysilicones-15 (PARSOL® SLX) or diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (Oxynex® ST liquid); dialkyl naphthalates such as diethylhexyl naphthalate (Corapan® TQ), 2,4-pentanedione derivatives such as e.g. trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione (Synoxyl® HSS), phenylbenzotriazoles such as benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol sold under reference Tinogard® TL by BASF, and mixtures thereof.

Additionally, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise a quencher or a mixture thereof. Quenchers are indeed useful to prevent the degradation of UV stabilizers. An example of a suitable quencher that may be introduced in the composition of the present invention is tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate sold under reference Tinogard® Q by BASF.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be formulated in any suitable form for topical administration. For example, the composition may be a solution, such as an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution; a dispersion, such as a lotion or serum; an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water emulsion, a water- in-oil emulsion, a multiple phase emulsion (for example an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-oil-in- water emulsion) or a microemulsion; a gel, such as an aqueous or lipophilic gel; or a vesicular dispersion, such as an ionic and/or nonionic vesicular dispersion. These compositions are prepared by the usual methods known to one skilled in the art. Pigmentation modifiers

The present invention also relates to new compounds of general formula (I).

The compounds of general formula (I) object of the present invention corresponds to general formula (I) as previously defined for the method of the present invention, with the proviso that said depigmenting agent is not one of the following compounds:

In particular the compound of general formula (I) may be selected in the group consisting of

The invention will be described in greater detail with the aid of the examples that follow, which are given for purely illustrative purposes.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 : Synthesis of umbelliprenin

A mixture of 7-hydroxy-oxycoumarin (5.0 mmol), trans-trans farnesyl bromide (4.8 mmol) and dry potassium carbonate (6.0 mmol) dissolved in acetone (10 ml) was heated at 80 °C for 1 hour under magnetic stirring, cooled and then poured into water (100 ml). The resulting solution was extracted with n-hexane (3 x 20 ml).

The combined organic phases were dried over anhydrous sodium sulphate, filtered and concentrated to dryness under vacuum. The resulting brownish solid was purified by crystallization (MeOH) affording umbelliprenin as a white solid in 74 % yield.

Melting point: 61 -63 °C

¹ H NMR (200 MHz, CDCI ₃ ) δ 7.60 (d, J = 9.45 Hz, 1 H), 7.32 (d, J = 8.52 Hz, 1 H), 6.84 (dd, J, = 8.52 Hz, J ₂

= 2.03 Hz, 1 H), 6.77 (d, J = 2.03 Hz, 1 H), 6.24 (d, J = 9.5 Hz, 1 H), 5.42 (d, J = 7.02 Hz, 1 H), 5.08-5.05 (m, 2H), 4.56 (d, J = 7.02 Hz, 2H), 2.09-2.06 (m, 4H), 2.04-2.01 (M, 2H), 1 .95 (t, J = 8.04 Hz, 2H), 1 .77 (s, 3H), 1 .64 (s, 3H), 1 .56 (s, 3H)

¹³ C NMR (50.1 MHz, CDCI ₃ ) δ 162.0, 161 .0, 155.6, 143.3, 142.3, 135.7, 131.0, 128.5, 124.3, 123.6, 1 18.4, 1 13.0, 1 12.7, 1 12.2, 101 .3, 65.4, 39.4, 26.5, 26.0, 25.8, 17.5, 16.8, 15.9.

EIMS m/z 366 [C ₂ 4H3o0 ₃ ] ⁺ (4.6)

Example 2: Synthesis of tesmilifene

The procedure was previously described in « Poirot M. et al., Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry, 2000, 8, p. 2007-2016 »

2-diethylaminoethylchloride (0.50 g, 2.72 mmol) was added to a solution of 4-benzylphenol (0.58 g, 2.72 mmol) and K ₂ C0 ₃ (0.69 g, 5.44 mmol) in 15 mL of a mixture of dry DMF:acetone (1 :1 ). The reaction mixture was maintained for 18 h at 60 °C. The mixture was then filtered and poured into 100 mL of cold water and extracted twice with 100 mL of diethyl ether. The organic layer was washed 3 times with 10 mL of an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (0.1 N) and then 3 times with 10 mL of brine. The ethereal organic layer was then extracted with 5 mL of hydrochloric acid (12 N). The aqueous layer was collected and concentrated. The white solid was then recrystallized in a mixture of isopropanol:acetone (3:1 ) to give 0.78 g (Yield=90%) of white crystals as the hydrochloride salt and exhibits the following characteristics:

Melting point: 156-158 °C;

¹ H NMR, δ (DMSO-d6): 7.1 -7.6 (m, 9H, ArH), 3.91 (s, 2H, ArCH ₂ ), 4.4 (t, J=5.8Hz, 2H, ArOCH ₂ ), 2.82 (t, J=5.8Hz, 2H, CH ₂ N), 2.63 (q, 4H, NCH ₂ ), 1 .2 (t, 6H, CH ₃ );

Mass Spectrometry: m/z=283 (M+1 ).

Example 3: Synthesis of PBPE

The procedure was previously described in « Poirot M. et al., Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry, 2000, 8, p. 2007-2016 »

Synthesis of 2-(4-Benzyl-phenoxy)-ethanol

The same procedure was used as for tesmilifene prepared in example 2 using 2-chloroethanol instead of 2- diethylaminoethylchloride. The reaction mixture was maintained for 18 h at 60 °C. The mixture was then filtered, poured into 100 mL of cold water and extracted twice with 100 mL of diethyl ether. The organic layer was washed 3 times with 10 mL of an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (0.1 N) and then 3 times with 10 mL of brine. The organic layer was concentrated under reduced pressure and the white solid was then recrystallized in hexane to give the desired product with a yield of 85%. The title compound exhibits the following characteristics:

Melting point: 70-72 °C;

1 H NMR δ (DMSO-d6): 7.1 -7.6 (m, 9H, ArH), 4.01 (m, 4H, OCH ₂ CH ₂ 0), 3.90 (s, 2H, ArCH ₂ );

Mass Spectrometry: m/z=228 (M+). Synthesis of 2-(4-Benzyl-phenoxy)-ethylbromine

2-(4-Benzyl-phenoxy)-ethanol (2 g, 8.8 mmol) of was dissolved in 20 mL of CH ₂ CI ₂ containing 1 .1 equivalents of CBr ₄ (1 .3 g, 13.1 mmol) at 0 °C. 1 .2 equivalents of triphenylphosphine were then added. The mixture was stirred for 1 h at 0 °C and then 1 h at room temperature. The solution was extracted 3 times with water, dried over MgS0 ₄ , filtered and concentrated. The residue was recrystallized in a minimum of methanol to give 2.05 g (Yield=69%) of a white solid having the following characteristics:

Melting point: 60-62 °C;

¹ H NMR δ (DMSO-d6): 7.1 -7.6 (m, 9H, ArH), 4.28 (t, 2H, ArOCH ₂ ), 3.91 (s, 2H, ArCH ₂ ), 3.62 (t, 2H, CH ₂ Br); Mass Spectrometry: m/z=291 (M+).

- Synthesis of PBPE

A solution 0.5 g of compound 2-(4-Benzyl-phenoxy)-ethylbromine (1 .7 mmol) and 1 .1 equivalents of pyrrolidine in 15 mL of dry DMF were mixed at 60 °C for 12 h. The mixture was poured into 100 mL of water and extracted twice with 25 mL of CH ₂ CI ₂ . The organic layer was washed three times with 15 mL of NaOH (0.1 N), then three times with 15 mL of brine. The organic layer was dried over MgS0 ₄ , filtered and concentrated to give 0.58 g (Yield=95%) of a yellow liquid having the following characteristics:

1 H NMR δ (DMSO-d6): 6.6-7.6 (m, 1 1 H, ArH + pyrrolidine a-H), 6.2 (m, 2H pyrrolidine β-Η), 3.91 (s, 2H, ArCH ₂ ), 4.06 (t, J=5.8 Hz, 2H, ArOCH ₂ ), 4.18 (t, J=5.8 Hz, 2H, CH ₂ N);

Mass Spectrometry: m/z=278 (M+).

Example 4: Synthesis of 3-acetyl-7-farnesyl-oxycoumarin

To a stirred solution of 2,4-dihydroxy-benzaldehyde (1 mmol) in EtOH (5 mL), diethylamine (3 mmol) and methyl acetoacetate (1 .2 mmol) were added and the resulting mixture was heated at 80 °C for 5 h. The mixture was then poured into a solution of citric acid 5% (in 200 mL of water) and the formation of a white precipitate was observed. Said precipitate was recovered by filtration under vacuum, without further purification of the required adduct: 3-acetyl-7-hydroxy-oxycoumarin (Yield 93%).

A solution of 3-acetyl-7-hydroxy-oxycoumarin (1 mmol) in acetone (5 mL) was prepared. Dry K ₂ C0 ₃ (1 , 1 mmol) was added, and the resulting suspension was heated at 80 °C for 5 min. Farnesyl bromide (1 , 1 mmol) was then added and the resulting mixture was left at 80 °C for 5 h. After cooling, the solution was diluted with water (50 mL) and extracted with CH ₂ CI ₂ (2 x 50 mL). The combined organic phases were dried over Na ₂ S0 ₄ and evaporated to dryness (Yield 65-70%).

Example 5: Synthesis of 3-acetyl-7-qeranyl-oxycoumarin

The title compound was prepared by following the procedure of example 4 except that farnesyl bromide was replaced with geranyl bromide. Example 6: Synthesis of 3-chloro-4-methyl-7-farnesyl-oxycoumarin

To a stirred solution of 3-chloro-4-methyl-7-hydroxy-oxycoumarin (1 mmol) in acetone (5 mL), dry K ₂ C0 ₃ (1 , 1 mmol) was added. The resulting suspension was heated at 80 °C for 5 min. Farnesyl bromide (1 , 1 mmol) was then added and the resulting mixture was left at 80 °C for 6 h. The solution was then cooled, diluted with H ₂ 0 (50 mL) and extracted with CH ₂ CI ₂ (2 x 50 mL). The combined organic phases were dried over Na ₂ S0 and evaporated to dryness (Yield 85-70%).

Example 7: Synthesis of 7-crotyl-oxycoumarin To a stirred solution of umbelliferon (1 mmol) in acetone (5 mL), dry K ₂ C0 ₃ (1 ,1 mmol) was added. The resulting suspension was heated at 80 °C for 5 min. Crotyl bromide (1 ,1 mmol) was then added and the resulting mixture was left at 80 °C for 3 h. The solution was then cooled, diluted with H ₂ 0 (50 mL) and extracted with CH ₂ CI ₂ (2 x 50 mL). The combined organic phases were dried over Na ₂ S0 and evaporated to dryness (Yield 87%). Example 8: Synthesis of 3-carboxylic acid-7-farnesyl-oxycoumarin

To a stirred solution of 2,4-dihydroxy-benzaldhyde (1 mmol) in EtOH (5 mL), dimethyl malonate (1 .2 mmol) and diethylamine (3 mmol) were added. The resulting mixture was heated at 80 °C for 15 h. The solution was than cooled, diluted with H ₂ 0 (50 mL) and extracted with CH ₂ CI ₂ (3 x 50 mL). The combined organic phases were dried over Na ₂ S0 ₄ and evaporated to dryness under vacuum to obtain 3-acetate-7-hydroxy- oxycoumarin as a white powder (yield 70%).

To a solution of 3-acetate-7-hydroxy-oxycoumarin (1 mmol) in acetone (5 mL), dry K ₂ C0 ₃ (1 ,1 mmol) was added. The resulting suspension was heated at 80 °C for 5 min. Farnesyl bromide (1 ,1 mmol) was added and the resulting mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 h. The methyl ester was then hydrolysed by adding a solution of NaOH (1 N) and the resulting mixture was stirred for at 50 °C 1 h. The solution was cooled, diluted with water and extracted with Et ₂ 0 (2 x 50 ml). The aqueous solution was acidified with HCI 37% to pH 2 and further extracted with CH ₂ CI ₂ (3 x 50 mL).The combined organic phases were dried over Na ₂ S0 ₄ and evaporated to dryness (Yield 65%).

Example 9: Effect of umbelliprenin on melanin content in normal murine melanocytes Melanin content was measured using a previously reported procedure (Ando H, J. Lipid Res., 1999, 40, p. 1312). Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with increasing doses of umbelliprenin, 100μΜ of kojic acid (KA) or carrier solvent (DMSO). 5.10 ⁶ cells were centrifuged at 1500 rpm for 5 minutes at 4 °C. The cell pellet was washed twice with phosphate buffer saline, transferred in an Eppendorf vial and centrifuged at 5000 g for 5 minutes at 4 °C. The supernatant was discarded. 200 μΙ_ of water and 1 mL of EtOH/Ether (1 /1 ) were added to remove opaque substances other than melanin. The mixture was incubated for 15 minutes at room temperature, centrifuged at 5000 g for 5 minutes and the supernatant was discarded. The precipitate containing melanin was solubilized by 300 μΙ_ of a mixture of aqueous sodium hydroxide (1 M)/DMSO 90/10 after heating at 80 °C for 1 hour. The absorbance was measured at 405 nm. The melanin content was expressed as a percentage of control (=100%).

The results are shown in Figure 1 . Umbelliprenin significantly decreases melanin content in a dose dependent manner. The diminution of melanin content was higher for umbelliprenin compared with kojic acid, a commercially available whitening compound. This example demonstrates that umbelliprenin has whitening properties. Example 10: Effect of PBPE and tesmilifene on melanin content in normal murine melanocytes

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with increasing doses of PBPE, tesmilifene (Tes) or carrier solvent (ethanol). Melanin content was measured as described in example9.

The results are shown in Figure 2. Both PBPE and tesmilifene significantly decrease melanin content in a dose dependent manner. This example demonstrates that PBPE and tesmilifene have whitening properties. Example 11 : Umbelliprenin. PBPE and tesmilifene decrease melanin content in normal murine melanocytes treated with alpha melanocyte stimulating hormone (a-MSH).

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with a-MSH (100 nM) in association with PBPE (20 μΜ), tesmilifene (10 μΜ), umbelliprenin (40 μΜ) or carrier solvent (DMSO for umbelliprenin and ethanol for tesmilifene or PBPE). Melanin content was measured as described in example9. The results are shown in Figure 3. a-MSH, a physiological inducer of melanogenesis, triggers an increase of melanin content in normal murine melanocytes whereas the addition of umbelliprenin, PBPE and tesmilifene inhibits the melanogenic effect of a-MSH.

Example 12: Effect of umbelliprenin, PBPE and tesmilifene on melanin content in normal murine melanocytes exposed to ultraviolet (UV-B) irradiation.

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and exposed to ultraviolet (UV-B) irradiation (20 mJ/cm ² ) using RMX 3W Vilber Lourmat Biospectre according to the manufacturer's instructions and then treated with PBPE (20 μΜ), tesmilifene (10 μΜ), umbelliprenin (40 μΜ) or carrier solvent (DMSO for umbelliprenin and ethanol for tesmilifene or PBPE). Melanin content was measured as described in example9. The results are shown in Figure 4. UV-B irradiation induces an increase of melanin content in normal murine melanocytes whereas the addition of umbelliprenin, PBPE and tesmilifene inhibits the melanogenic effect of UV-B.

Example 13: Effect of umbelliprenin. PBPE and tesmilifene combinations on melanin content in normal murine melanocytes

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with fixed doses of PBPE, tesmilifene, umbelliprenin or a combination of those, or carrier solvent (DMSO for umbelliprenin, ethanol for tesmilifene or PBPE and EtOH/DMSO 1 /1 for the combination). Melanin content was measured as described in example9. The results are shown in Figure 5. Combination treatments significantly decrease melanin level with higher efficacy compared to umbelliprenin, PBPE or tesmilifene alone. This example demonstrates that molecules of general formula I can be combined to achieve optimized whitening properties.

Example 14: Effect of umbelliprenin, PBPE and tesmilifene on tyrosinase activity in normal murine melanocytes.

Tyrosinase activity was measured using a previously reported procedure (Ando H, J. Lipid Res., 1999, 40, p. 1312). Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with kojic acid (100 μΜ), PBPE (20 μΜ), tesmilifene (10 μΜ), umbelliprenin (40 μΜ) or carrier solvent (DMSO for umbelliprenin and ethanol for tesmilifene or PBPE). 5.10 ⁶ cells were centrifuged at 1500 rpm for 5 minutes at 4 °C. The cell pellet was washed twice with phosphate buffer saline, transferred in an Eppendorf vial and centrifuged at 5000 g for 5 minutes at 4 °C. The supernatant was discarded. Cell lysis was performed with an aqueous solution of sodium deoxycholate 0.5% (1 ml_ per cell pellet). The suspension was incubated at 0 °C for 15 minutes and then 3 ml_ of a freshly prepared solution of L-DOPA (0.1 % w/w) in phosphate buffer at 0.1 M (pH 6.8) was added to the cell lysate. The mixture was incubated at 37 °C for 10 min. Tyrosinase activity was measured with a spectrophotometer to quantify the oxidation of L-DOPA to DOPAchrome. The absorbance was measured at 475 nm. The tyrosinase activity was expressed as a percentage of control (=100%). Control corresponds to the tyrosinase activity measured in the cell lysate from normal murine melanocytes treated with carrier solvent. Melanin content of treated murine melanocytes was also measured as described in example 9. The results are shown in Figure 6. Umbelliprenin, PBPE and tesmilifene decrease tyrosinase activity levels in normal murine melanocytes. The diminution of melanin content was higher for umbelliprenin, tesmilifene and PBPE compared with kojic acid, a commercially available whitening compound.

Example 15: Whitening effect of umbelliprenin on normal murine melanocytes pellet.

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with umbelliprenin (40 μΜ) or carrier solvent (DMSO). Cells were detached by trypsin ization, collected in phosphate buffer saline and centrifuged at 1500 rpm for 5 minutes at 4 °C. Cells pellet was washed with phosphate buffer saline, centrifuged and the supernatant was discarded. Cell pellets were then photographed.

The results are shown in Figure 7. The appearance of melanocytes treated with umbelliprenin was much lighter than melanocytes treated with the carrier solvent. Example 16: Effect of umbelliprenin. tesmilifene and PBPE on the expression of genes encoding melanogenic proteins in normal murine melanocytes

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated as described in example 14. We then performed RNA extraction. We added Trizol® (1 ml) on treated cells. After incubation (5 minutes at room temperature), we transferred the cells suspension into Eppendorf vial. Chloroform (200 μΙ at 4 °C) was added, the mixture was manually stirred for 15 seconds, incubated for 5 minutes at room temperature and then centrifuged at 16000 g for 10 minutes at 4 °C. Aqueous colorless layer was collected and isopropanol (500 μΙ_ at -20 °C) was added. The mixture was manually stirred for 15 seconds, incubated for 15 minutes at room temperature and the centrifuged at 16200 g for 10 minutes at 4 °C. The supernatant was discarded and the precipitate was washed with 1 ml_ of EtOH/H ₂ 0 (3/1 ) at -20 °C. The mixture was centrifuged at 16000 g for 10 minutes at 4 °C, the supernatant discarded and the pellet was allowed to dry for 10 minutes at room temperature. The pellet was dissolved in RNAse-free water (30 μΙ_). The amount and purity of RNA was determined by measuring the absorbance at 230, 260 and 280 nm with a nanodrop ND-1000 spectrophotometer (Thermo Scientific) according to the manufacturer's instructions.

We then performed RT-qPCR experiment. We prepared a mixture containing RNA (1 μg), reverse transcriptase (1 μΙ_), the reaction mixture « iScript®5x » (4 μΙ_) and RNAse-free water (qsp 20 μΙ). The mixture was vortexed, centrifuged for few seconds and then introduced into a thermocycler. Reverse transcription was performed using the following program : 5 min at 25 °C, 30 min at 42 °C and then 5 min at 85 °C. Eppendorf vial was maintained at 4 °C until the beginning of the qPCR experiment. We then examined the expression of melanogenic genes (Tyrosinase, Mitf, TRP-1 and TRP-2) and housekeeping genes (glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate dehydrogenase and Cyclophiline A1 ) by qPCR. For this purpose, cDNA was diluted with RNAse-free water (180 μΙ_) and then we prepared a mixture containing: primers, Syber Green® and RNAse-free water. We mixed in a 96-well plate cDNA (5 μΙ_) and the mixture (20 μΙ_). The plate was sealed with an adhesive sealing film, centrifuged at 4000 rpm for 3 minutes and then introduced in a thermocycler. The following program was used to amplify cDNA of the studied genes: 95 °C for 3 min followed by 50 amplification cycles (15 sec at 95 °C and then 1 minute at 60 °C). At the end of the program, melting curves were generated (95 °C for 1 minute and 80 cycles of 10 sec at 95 °C).

The results are shown in figure 8. Umbelliprenin significantly repressed the expression of melanogenic genes whereas this effect was not observed with tesmilifene and PBPE. This experiment showed that whitening property of umbelliprenin is associated with a blockage of melanogenic proteins expression at the transcriptional level whereas the depigmenting activity of PBPE and tesmilifene does not involve this process.

Example 17: Cytotoxicity of umbelliprenin. tesmilifene and PBPE

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 24, 48 and 72 hours with PBPE (20 μΜ), tesmilifene (10 μΜ), umbelliprenin (40 μΜ) or carrier solvent (DMSO for umbelliprenin and ethanol for tesmilifene or PBPE). Cells were detached by trypsinization, collected in phosphate buffer saline and centrifuged at 1500 rpm for 5 minutes at 4 °C. Cells pellets were resuspended in the trypan blue solution (0.25%, w/v in PBS) and counted in a Malassez cell under a light microscope. The percentage of cell viability was calculated using the following formula:

% cell viability= [1 -(blue cells/total cells)] x100

The results are shown in figure 9.

Umbelliprenin, tesmilifene and PBPE have no significant impact on cell viability at doses that are effective to stimulate whitening of normal murine melanocytes.

Example 18: Whitening effect of compounds of general formula (I) in normal murine melanocytes

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with increasing doses (20μΜ or 40μΜ) of the compounds of general formula (I) listed in Table 1 . Melanin content was measured as described in example 9.

Melanin Melanin content content

Ref Structure of tested compounds of general formula (I)

after 48 h after 48 h (20μΜ) (40μΜ)

Table 1

All of the compounds of Table 1 significantly decrease melanin content in a dose dependent manner. These compounds can therefore be used to lighten the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or hair.

Example 19: Darkening effect of compounds of general formula (I) in normal murine melanocytes Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours at 40μΜ with the compounds of general formula (I) listed in Table 2. Melanin content was measured as described in example 9.

Melanin content

Structure of tested compounds of general formula (I) after 48h

(40μΜ)

Table 2

All of the compounds of Table 2 significantly increase melanin content in a dose dependent manner. These compounds can therefore be used to darken the pigmentation of the skin, the mucous membrane or hair.

Example 20: Preparation of plant extracts comprising umbelliprenin

Plant materials

All the starting plant materials were cultivated wild and purchased from Abruzzo Region (Italy). The following plant materials were used:

• Pimpinella anisium seeds ;

• Anethum graveolens seeds ;

· Ferulago Campestris irun s ;

Extraction solvent The extractions were carried out with four different extraction solvents, namely:

• ethanol;

• water/ethanol (70/30 v/v);

• water/ethanol (70/30 v/v) + β-cyclodextrin (0.066 g in 5 ml_ of solvent);

· water + β-cyclodextrin (0.066 g in 5 ml_ of solvent);

Extraction Procedure

0.5 g of each dry plant material was suspended in 5 ml_ of each extraction solvent.

Two different kinds of extractions were carried out:

· sonication was performed in an ultrasound machine (Sonic-6, Polsonic, Poland) for 10 minutes at room temperature with ultrasound power of 240 W and a frequency of 40 kHz;

• maceration was performed by stirring the plant material in the solvent at room temperature for 96 h;

When ethanol is the only extraction solvent, the resulting suspensions were centrifuged, the supernatant was removed and evaporated under vacuum.

When the extraction solvent comprises water, the resulting suspensions were centrifuged, the supernatant was recovered and extracted with CH2CI2 (2 x 3 ml_). The organic phases were combined, dried over Na ₂ S0 ₄ and evaporated under vacuum (rotavapor). The collected samples were diluted in 1 ml_ of methanol for HPLC analysis.

Recovery of β-cyclodextrin Procedure:

β-cyclodextrin (β-cD) can be recovered by washing solid residue resulting from the centrifugation with 1 ml_ of methanol. The resulting suspension was centrifuged, the supernatant was recovered and evaporated under vacuum (rotavapor).

The collected sample was diluted in 100 μΙ_ of methanol for HPLC analysis to investigate the purity of βοϋ.

Example 21 : Whitening effect of plant extracts comprising a compound of general formula (I) in normal murine melanocytes

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with increasing doses of the extracts of listed in Table 3 which were prepared according to the procedure of example 20. Melanin content was measured as described in example 9.

Table 3 All of the plant extracts of Table 3 significantly decrease melanin content in a dose dependent manner. These plant extracts can therefore be used to lighten the pigmentation of the skin.

Example 22: Darkening effect of a plant extract comprising a compound of general formula (I) in normal murine melanocytes

Normal murine melanocytes were seeded and treated for 48 hours with increasing doses of the extract of listed in Table 4 which was prepared according to the procedure of example 20. Melanin content was measured as described in example 9.

Table 4

The plant extract of Table 4 significantly increases melanin content in a dose dependent manner. This extract can therefore be used to darken the pigmentation of the skin.

Example 23: Cosmetic compositions comprising umbelliprenin

The following compositions comprising umbelliprenin were formulated as dry oils by mixing the ingredients indicated in table 5 at room temperature and homogenizing the mixture with moderate stirring. The amount of each ingredient given in Table 5 is a percentage by weight based on the weight of the composition

Table 5

The following compositions, except for formulation 19, comprising umbelliprenin were formulated as dry oils with UV filters by mixing the ingredients indicated in table 6 at room temperature and homogenizing the mixture with moderate stirring.

For formulation n °19, the ingredients indicated in table 6, except tribehenin and umbelliprenin, were mixed at room temperature. Tribehenin was then added and the mixture was heated a 70 °C with thorough stirring. Once the mixture was homogeneous, it was allowed to cool to 35 °C, and umbelliprenin was subsequently added. The mixture was then left to cool to room temperature with moderate stirring.

The amount of each ingredient given in Table 6 is a percentage by weight based on the weight of the composition.

Table 6

The following compositions comprising umbelliprenin were formulated as water-in-oil emulsion by heating the ingredients of A and B indicated in table 7 to 70 °C separately. A was slowly added to B with thorough stirring. Once the mixture was homogeneous, it was allowed to cool to 35 °C and umbelliprenin was added with thorough stirring. The mixture was allowed to cool to room temperature with moderate stirring. The amount of each ingredient given in Table 7 is a percentage by weight based on the weight of the composition. Formula 20 21

Water 25 25

A Glycerin

(Pricerine® 9091 ) 5 5

Sorbitan Isostearate and

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

(Arlacel® 1690) 3

Polyglyceryl-3-ricinoleate

(Soldoc® PGRP) 6

Tribehenin

(Syncrowax® HRC) 8 8

Dicaprylyl carbonate

B

(Cetiol® CC) 20 20

Olea europaea fruit oil

(Cegesoft® PS 6) 5 5

Caprylic/Capric triglyceride

(Myritol® 318) 32.5 29.5

Camellia oleifera seed oil 1 1

Umbelliprenin 0.5 0.5

Table 7

Formulae 1 -21 are stable and can be used to induce lightening of a skin or a mucous membrane in a patient.