OR THE LIKE Technical Field

The present invention relates to a crotch measuring device for use in connection with a dress making pattern for slacks, trousers, pants, culottes, shorts or the like. Background Art

Dress making patterns for trousers, pants, slacks, culottes, shorts etc are well known. Patterns are in the form of shapes printed onto sheets of lightweight paper and usually include two or three or more size variations within a preset range of sizes which is typically identified on the packet containing the patterns.

The user of such dress making patterns, determines the correct size of the intended garment and cuts the shapes from the paper sheets along lines designated for that particular size. These cut-out paper shapes are then used to cut the fabric for the garment by being pinned to the fabric in an appropriate orientation relative to the knit and/or any print or pattern in/on the fabric. The fabric is then cut along the periphery of the cut-out paper shape and can then be sewn together using instructions provided with the patterns, to make the desired garment.

The problem with such dress making patterns is that the human form varies at least slightly from person to person such that it is often necessary for the user of such patterns to make adjustments to the pattern in order to obtain a finished garment which fits that person as well as possible. The adjustments that may be required are typically quite subtle and can only be learned by trial and error.

It will be appreciated that the adjustments which are required to such patterns are due to the inherent difficulty of providing a pattern which is suitable for all the various body shapes of persons who may nevertheless have a 'size' which is within a particular narrow range of sizes designated for that pattern.

The present inventor has recognised that a dress making pattern can be made which is far better able to accommodate varying body shapes. Further, the present inventor has recognised that the philosophy used to design the known dress making patterns for making particular garments such as pants, trousers, etc is not entirely appropriate and has developed an

alternative philosophy which is believed to produce a garment that is more likely to fit correctly, generally without requiring the user to make adjustments to the pattern.

An important aspect in creating a garment which fits correctly is to ensure a balance and symmetry of the various parts of the garment which are to be sewn together. This balance and symmetry is often lost when adjustments are made to a pattern, even by an experienced user. Further, if the pattern does not have a balance and symmetry in the first place, the user of such a pattern will find it extremely difficult to make a garment which fits correctly.

A major problem with current dressmaking patterns is that the design of those areas of the pattern which will form the crotch of a garment attempt to allow for the wearer of the finished garment to sit down. While the known designs generally allow the wearer of the finished garment to sit down in comfort, this is achieved by providing an excess of material which tends to ride up and form a fold of material in the lower back area when the wearer is standing erect.

In an effort to overcome at least some of the disadvantages of the prior art or provide a commercial alternative to the prior art the present invention provides a device for determining a crotch line length for a garment pattern which is simple, quick, effective and provides garments with consistently good fit and shape. Disclosure of the Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention provides a device for determining a crotch line length for a garment pattern, said device comprising an elongated generally U-shaped member having substantially linear front and back crotch line portions connected at their lower ends by a lower crotch line portion, wherein the lower crotch line portion is length adjustable to define any one of a plurality of predetermined crotch line lengths.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a device for determining a crotch line length for a garment pattern, said device comprising a plurality of fixed elongated generally U-shaped members, each member having a substantially linear front and back crotch line portion connected at their lower ends by a lower crotch line portion, wherein the lower crotch line portion of each member has a different length such that

each member defines a different one of a plurality of predetermined crotch line lengths.

The present invention arrives from a surprising discovery that one can accurately determine the appropriate "crotch" size of a garment using a simply U-shaped member which may be altered to adjust to the appropriate crotch line length. In other words, the inventors have determined that the crotch line length of a garment will, of course, vary from person to person but the general form of the crotch line can be maintained.

The present invention allows for a garment to be produced whereby the wearer of the garment can sit down and stand erect in comfort generally without the abovementioned disadvantages of current patterns. Surprisingly, this is achieved without the garment pattern having an obvious deformity from the natural crotch line to allow for sitting and standing. Instead, the crotch area of the resultant pattern arising from use of the present invention has a form which preferably does not depart significantly from the form of an imaginary crotch line extending from a central waist height position at the front of a person along the crotch to a central waist height position at the lower back. The particular form of the crotch line of the present invention was recognised by the present inventor to produce a garment having consistently good fit, both sitting down and standing upright, in persons having a variety of body shapes, generally without the fabric of the garment riding up and gathering in the lower back area when the wearer is standing upright.

In a preferred embodiment the lower crotch line portion is curved and the length of the curved crotch line portion is adjusted at the lower most portion thereof in a direction generally tangential to the curvature of the curved crotch line portion. Further, the curved crotch line portion may comprise separable back and front parts attached to the substantially linear front and back crotch line portions respectively with the front and back parts being releasably connected by a length adjustable portion extending therebetween. This length adjustable portion may include a plurality of crotch line length markings which define a plurality of said crotch line lengths.

The inventive device may also be provided with a plurality of predetermined crotch height markings on the front and back crotch line portions. These markings may be aligned with respective waist high central

portions on the front and back respectively of a person thereby defining any one of a plurality of predetermined crotch heights.

In still a further embodiment, the present inventive device may also include a waist band adjustable about a waist of a person to define the respective waist high central portions on the front and back of the person.

As mentioned above, these waist high central portions may be used to define one of a plurality of predetermined crotch heights for the garment pattern.

Preferably, the waist band may include first and second attachment means centrally located at the front and back of a user respectively, these attachment means being releasably connectable to respective upper ends of the front and back crotch line portions of the U-shaped member. The inventive device may define between two and five predetermined crotch line lengths and/or crotch heights. Preferably, however, the device defines three crotch line lengths and three crotch heights. This number of predetermined crotch line lengths and crotch heights has been found to provide sufficient coverage for a variety of garment sizes.

In a further aspect, the present invention also provides a garment pattern kit which includes a garment pattern having a predetermined shape and including a plurality of predetermined size markings, and the aforementioned crotch measuring device, wherein the plurality of predetermined size markings correspond with the plurality of predetermined crotch line lengths of the crotch measuring device.

In other words, with the present inventive garment pattern kit, all that is required to provide a correctly sized garment pattern is to determine which of the predetermined crotch line lengths is suitable, using the inventive crotch measuring device and then sizing the pattern according to the most suitable crotch line length selected from the plurality of predetermined crotch line lengths. Further, the garment pattern in the inventive garment pattern kit may also include a plurality of predetermined size markings which correspond to the plurality of predetermined crotch heights and/or waist sizes of the inventive crotch measuring device.

The present invention further provides a method for determining a garment size and providing a garment pattern by using the inventive crotch measuring device.

Brief Description of the Drawings

Preferred forms of the present invention will now be described by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawings wherein:

Figure 1 is a schematic plan view of the design of a conventional dressmaking pattern superimposed on a pattern according to the present invention;

Figure 2 is a schematic plan view of a pattern in accord with the present invention;

Figure 3a is a schematic exploded view of a crotch measuring device according to the present invention;

Figure 3b shows a schematic perspective view of a waist band according to another embodiment of the present invention;

Figure 4 is a schematic plan view of still another embodiment of the crotch measuring device; Figure 5 is a schematic perspective view of the inventive crotch measuring device being worn by a model;

Figure 6 is a schematic plan view of the inventive crotch measuring device of Figure 3a when placed on the pattern of Figure 2. Best Modes of Carrying out the Invention Referring to Figure 1, there is shown in heavy lines A a conventional fabric pattern for trousers where the crotch line B is generally U-shaped, but which is deformed or distorted when compared with a notional or natural crotch line extending from a waist high centre front position to a waist high centre back position of a human body. This distortion of the crotch line is intended to give the finished article enough room for the wearer of the garment to sit down with comfort. Unfortunately, when the wearer stands up, the distortion in the pattern causes the excess fabric to ride up to form a fold at the lower back region. This is unattractive.

The pattern 10 arising from the present invention, on the other hand, as shown in Figures 1 and 2 has a crotch line 11 which has a much narrower opening 12 as compared to the crotch line B of the conventional pattern. The crotch line of the pattern 10 more closely approximates the imaginary actual crotch line of the human body described above. Surprisingly this form of the crotch line 11 of the pattern 10 still allows the wearer of the finished garment to sit and stand in comfort generally without the fabric forming a gather or fold in the lower back region when standing upright.

The inventive pattern 10 includes a number of size markings 13, 14, 15 (see Figure 2) which will be explained below. It should be noted, however, that the form of a crotch line 11 of pattern 10 remains virtually constant the only difference being in the length of the lower curved crotch line portion. The form of the crotch line 11 of pattern 10 provides a good

"average" for differing body shapes of a wearer whose size is within the range of predetermined sizes for which the pattern is designed.

Referring now to Figure 3 a, the present invention provides a device 20 which determines the correct crotch line length for sizing the garment pattern 10 shown in Figures 1 and 2.

The device 20 comprises an elongated generally U-shaped member having substantially linear front and back crotch line portions 21, 22 respectively connected at their lower ends by a lower preferably curved crotch line portion 23. The device 20 may be constructed from many suitable material, however, it is preferred the material is a flexible, generally inextensible planar material such as plastic film with the curvature of the member being in the plane of the material.

In this embodiment, the lower curved crotch line portion 23 comprises separable front and back parts 24, 25, respectively which are releasably connected by a length adjustable portion 26 extending therebetween.

The inner end portions 27 of the two parts 24, 25 respectively form the length adjustable portion 26 of the device 20. This length adjustable portion provides for alteration of the crotch line length in a direction which is generally tangential to the lower most portion of the lower crotch portion

23.

Preferably the end portions 27 each have connectors eg. Velcro hook and eye fastener material, adhesive film or the like, and a series of parallel lines serving as crotch line length markings 28. Each crotch line length marking 28 is labelled so as to be distinguishable from one another. End portions 27 of the device 20 shown in Figure 3a have three such parallel lines labelled "1", "2" and "3".

The device 20 operates as follows. The U-shaped member 20 is firstly placed in the crotch of the person for whom the garment is to be produced in much the same way as shown in Figure 5. The spacing between the front and back portions 21, 22 of the device is then adjusted such that

the inner edge 29 of the device defines the intended crotch line of the garment. The front and back portion should be adjusted such that they do not press into the wearer but also so that there is not excessive space between these portions and the wearer. Once the desired space in between the front 21 and back 22 crotch line portions has been obtained, the end portions 27 of the front and back parts 24, 25 are connected as shown in Figure 4. This connection will cause the size markings 28 on opposite end parts 27 to overlap thereby defining which of the predetermined crotch line lengths fits the person. It is important that the size markings 28 of one end portion 27 are aligned with the same size markings 28 of the other end portion 27. That is, when the end portions 27 are joined together, the crotch line length markings 29 must be aligned ie. line 1 overlapping opposite line 1, line 2 overlapping line 2 (as shown in Figure 4) or line 3 overlapping opposite line 3. This ensures the balance between the front and back portions of the garment pattern will be maintained. The selected crotch line length ie. "1", "2" or "3" is then used in conjunction with the garment pattern as follows.

The device 20 is dismantled into its two parts noting which of the predetermined crotch line lengths has been selected, and then positioned on the pattern as shown in Figure 6 with the inner edge 29 being aligned with the crotch line 11 of the pattern. In this position, the crotch line length markings 28 will be aligned with respective optional inner leg lines 13 of the pattern 10. The user then simply chooses that inner leg line 13 which corresponds with the selected crotch line length marking. The user may then cut out the pattern 10 and, in a conventional manner, pin the cut out pattern to the fabric to allow a user to cut the fabric to the same shape, the various pieces of fabric then being sewn together to produce the finished garment. In a particularly preferred embodiment, it is envisaged that the device 20 and pattern 10 may be sold together as a garment pattern kit. In the simplest form of the invention, the device 20 does not have a length adjustable portion 26 but instead comprises a plurality of U-shaped members with varying lengths of the lower curved crotch line portion 23. In this embodiment, a garment pattern kit may be provided with a pattern 10 and several U-shaped members 20. In this way, it is not necessary for the user to make the aforesaid length adjustments of the U-shaped member. The user simply selects the most suitable U-shaped member which provides the

desired spacing between the front and back crotch line portions 21, 22. The selected member may then be cut along a marked line between the front and back crotch line portion and the separated parts then positioned on the pattern 10 as described above with the cut edge representing the selected crotch line length marking for choosing the correct inner leg marking 13.

In another embodiment the present inventive device optionally includes a waist band 30 as shown in Figure 3b. The waist band 30 is intended to be adjustable around the waist of the person for whom the garment is to be produced. In the embodiment shown, the waist band 20 includes two adjustment buckles 31 connecting two separate lengths 32 of a suitable material such as, for example, elastic cord, paper, cardboard etc. however one buckle is also suitable. Each length 32 has a designated centre point 33. The centre points 33 are positioned at central waist high positions of the wearer's front and back respectively. Optionally, attachment means 34 may be provided at locations 33 on the front and rear of the user. Each of the attachment means 34 includes a crotch height marking 35 which will be discussed below. Preferably, the attachment means 34 includes some form of releasable attachment such as Velcro hook and eye fastener material, adhesive film or the like for co-operation with the upper ends of the device 20 as will now be explained.

Turning back to Figure 3a the upper ends 41, 42 of the front and back linear crotch portions 21, 22 respectively are adapted to co-operate with waist band 30 to define any one of a plurality of predetermined crotch heights. Each upper end 41, 42 has a series of parallel crotch height markings 43 defining a plurality of predetermined crotch heights and in much the same manner as the crotch line length markings 28, each crotch height marking 43 is suitable distinguished. In this case, the crotch height markings are labelled " • ", " • • " and " • • • ". In use, the waist band 30 is wrapped around the waist of the person for whom the garment is to be produced and adjusted to fit. The U-shaped member 20 is then placed in the crotch of the person, as mentioned above and as shown in Figure 5. The member 20 is then lifted so that it does not press against the wearer but also so that there is not excessive space between the U-shaped member 20 and the wearer. Once in the correct position, each upper end 41, 42 is connected to the waist band via co-operation between attachment means 34 on the waist band and attachment means 44 on the upper ends 41, 42 of the U-

shaped member 20. This connection will result in an overlap between the crotch height markings 35 of the waist band 30 with the crotch height markings 43 of the U-shaped member 20 to thereby give the desired crotch height. It should be noted, however, that as with the crotch line length markings 29, it is important that the crotch height markings 35 of the waist band align with the crotch height markings 43 of the U-shaped member. Further, the front and rear markers 35 on the waist band should overlap with the same sized markers 43 ie. " • ", " • • " and " ■ • • " on the upper ends 41, 42 of the front and back crotch line portions 21, 22 respectively. In this way, the balance of the front and back portions of the garment pattern will be maintained.

The selected crotch height is then used on the garment pattern in much the same way as the crotch line length referred to above. The U- shaped member 20 is removed and placed on the garment pattern as discussed above. The selected crotch height marking 43 will then be aligned with respective optional waist lines 14 of the pattern. It is then a simple matter of cutting out the pattern along a suitable waist line 14 defined by the crotch height marking and the inner leg line 13 defined by the crotch line length marking as discussed above. It should be noted that the crotch line length markings and crotch height markings are not intended to provide garment size variation but are intended to provide variation for the crotch line of the garment. Garment size variations are most appropriately provided for with size lines 15 on the outside of the pattern shapes ie. opposite to the inner leg lines 13 as shown in Figure 2.

As discussed previously and shown in Figure 1, the crotch line 11 of the inventive pattern is substantially narrower than the crotch line B of a conventional garment pattern. It will be noted that the main differences between the crotch line 11 of the present invention and the crotch line of a conventional pattern as shown in Figure 1 is that the angle of inclination of the substantially linear front and back crotch line portions 21 and 22 is significantly increased ie. more upright relative to the lower most crotch line. While the length of the crotch line 11 is about the same as conventional designs, it will be seen that the shape of the crotch line of the present invention is significantly different and more closely approximates the actual crotch line of a user.

A particularly preferred embodiment of the U-shaped member is shown in Figure 4. In this embodiment, the front linear crotch line portion 21 forms angle α with an imaginary vertical line. Back linear crotch line portion 22 forms a greater angle β with an imaginary vertical line. Further, the lower curved crotch line portion 23 is of varying radius. The front part

24 has a radius R _t whereas the back part 25 has a radius R ₂ which is substantially larger than radius R This particular form of the generally U- shaped member 20 has been found to be particularly successful in providing accurate fast and simple measurement of the crotch line length and crotch height.

It will be appreciated by persons skilled in the art that numerous variations and/or modifications may be made to the invention as shown in the specific embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention as broadly described. The present embodiments are, therefore, to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive.