SYSTEM FOR OBTAINING PATTERNS ON NAP FABRICS OR THE LIKE BY

SHEARING

Technical field

The present invention relates to a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics or the like by shearing which is particularly indicated to obtain ornamental motifs, decorations and/or patterns without limits of form or dimensions on napped materials and to create a three- dimensional effect on the surface of the material for multiple uses in both clothing and furnishing and in many other sectors.

Background Art

As is known, shearing is a textile finishing process - applicable to both finished and unfinished pieces - which consists in cutting the nap of the fabric. The nap is cut for various purposes, depending upon which surface it is applied to and at what height the nap is cut.

For such shearing, a shearing machine is used, which is a machine equipped with a shearing unit, designed to cut the nap of the fabric, consisting of a rotating cylinder endowed with helical blades and a blade support counter thereto. Furthermore, there is a wedge present, whose task is to support the fabric to be processed. To clarify further, the fabric is made to slide through the machine and the blades of the cylinder cut the nap at the programmed height, while a suction system picks up the cut nap. The cylinders, which generally have a diameter of 8 cm and 10 cm, may be up to four in number.

Nowadays, fashion style requirements, or simply the need to offer the public new styles or new decorations or aesthetic elements on fabrics, both for clothing and for furnishing and also in other areas, have led to attempts to create ornamental motifs/patterns on fabrics defined as napped, such as velvet, towelling, brushed cotton fleece, wool, brushed wool, all types of wool (mohair, alpaca, etc.), but also natural and synthetic fur. At present, certain patterns can be created on napped fabrics by cutting the nap, at different heights, according to a template, so that variations are created in the surface of the fabric which lead to a three-dimensional feel being obtained, in addition to light/dark visual effects that brighten up the fabric.

One method for obtaining the patterns illustrated above consists of the performance of engravings with a laser which, following a predetermined pattern, "burns" away part of the nap, thereby reducing the height thereof. This method has brought with it problems of some consequence, in that it causes permanent odours in the fabrics as it leaves residues of the burning on natural fibres due to the high operating temperatures; furthermore, variations in the colour of the fabric occur since the fabric tends to fade following the "burning" action to shorten the nap.

In addition, when working with synthetic fabrics, the laser tends to harden and scar the fabric and, consequently, modify the nature and structure of the said fabric.

Another method in use to make patterns is known as "imprime", which uses an engraved roller, i.e. a cylinder on which the ornamental motif which you want to obtain is impressed in negative. This method involves the cylinder being hot-pressed onto on the fabric in order to imprint the pattern engraved on the cylinder onto the fabric. In fact, where the nap of the fabric meets a recess in the cylinder, it remains relaxed while, where there is no indentation, the nap is crushed, ending up pressed.

This type of processing is not permanent on certain types of fabric such as, for example, velvets; in fact, over time, the crushed portion of fabric tends to extend back, due to both rubbing caused by sitting (in the case of the seat of a chair or a sofa) and also humidity. Velvet tends to return to its original form, thereby reducing or almost completely losing the presence of the ornamental motif.

Another problem encountered with the use of engraved cylinders emerges from the fact that the production cost of each cylinder is quite substantial, which means the patterns that are made are very limited in number. Each cylinder can be used to make one design only and when fashion or tastes change, the cylinder is no longer used, with a considerable accumulation, in warehouses, of cylinders which are not necessarily reusable over time and the consequent preparation and management costs thereof.

Another way to make patterns is to use an engraved cylinder inserted into a shearing machine; in fact, the fabric passes over the cylinder and the portions of nap which are raised by the cylinder are removed by the blades of the shearing machine, while those that are in correspondence with the engraving recesses keep the nap long.

Also in this case, a strong limit is imposed by the cost of preparation of the engraving on the cylinders, in addition to the fact that those cylinders which are supplied with the shearing machine have a rather small diameter (8 and 10 cm), which means the ornamental motif that can be obtained is limited in size and is repetitive since, with each turn of the cylinder, the pattern is repeated. In addition, it has been found that the definition of the pattern is not clean, resulting, instead, in blurring in the peripheral areas of the motif.

In addition to the above, it is a known fact, that many people are particularly demanding and careful about their choices of clothing, household linen, and furnishing fabrics, and they refuse to accept compromises such as garments and obj ects which do not meet up to their expectations and needs, and even sometimes wrongfully heighten expectations, if the obj ects are not impeccable, perfect, aesthetically pleasing and unusually made.

Disclosu re of Invention

The aim of the present invention is essentially to solve the problems of the known technique by overcoming the difficulties described above by means a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, which is able to offer a multitude of ornamental motifs with any form and dimensions, with a particular and original aesthetic appearance and which are perfectly made.

A second aim of the present invention is to provide a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, which allows the cut off portions to be removed contemporaneously.

A third aim of the present invention is to provide a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, which can be simple, practical, extremely functional, easily interchangeable and automatable.

A further aim of the present invention is to have a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, which can be used with all kinds of nap fabric and both natural and synthetic fur.

A still further aim of the present invention is to have a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, which does not require special installation on the shearing machine, is simple and easy to replace, does not require special maintenance, does not employ devices that use heat (to avoid damaging the materials) and has lower processing and operating costs.

A still further aim of the present invention is to have a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, which can curb the preparation, management, and maintenance costs therefor, thereby allowing greater productivity of the shearing machine. A further but not final aim of the present invention is to produce a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, which is structurally simple and works well.

These aims and others besides, which will better emerge over the course of the present description, are essentially achieved by means of a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, as outlined in the claims below.

Brief Description of Drawings Further characteristics and advantages will better emerge in the detailed description of a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, according to the present invention, provided in the form of a non-limiting example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 shows, schematically and from a perspective view, structural setup on the shearing machine, to provide a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing, according to the present invention;

Figure 2 shows, schematically, a lateral view of the structural setup in Figure 1 ; Figure 3 shows, schematically, a structural setup on the shearing machine to provide the system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing in question;

- Figure 4 shows, schematically, a different structural setup on the shearing machine to provide the system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like by shearing. Now, with reference to Figure 1, 1 is used to denote a system for obtaining patterns on nap fabrics and the like according to the present invention as a whole.

Best Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

The system in question allows to an ornamental motif/pattern to be made through the use of a template 2 which enables the nap to be removed completely or partially from the material processed through the passage through the shearing machine, also via one or more passages, at fixed and/or variable heights, in static and/or dynamic form, as shown below. The procedure in question envisages that the material 5 to be processed, whether it be made of natural or synthetic or mixed fabric or of fake or natural fur, is inserted into the shearing machine and the traction mechanism of the shearing machine drags the material, with suitable and calibrated pressure, through the passage on a roller system, to the position in which the nap is removed mechanically by the abutment between a wedge 3 and shearing machine unit 4, which comprises a cylinder with a rotating blade 40 and a blade support 41 , as shown schematically in Figures 1 and 2.

When one intends to make an ornamental motif on the fabric, a template is prepared by tracing the pattern on the surface and boring the surface in the zones and sectors of the pattern in which a shorter nap is desired in order to create a three-dimensional, dynamic effect on the material's surface, as shown in Figure 1.

In more detail, the template 2 is made with different materials such as, for example, PET, ferrite, PVC, Plexiglas, cardboard, and any other material which meets the same requirements. Also, the template 2 features different thicknesses and dimensions and the ornamental motif/pattern 20 to be obtained on the material being processed is impressed onto the surface thereof. As mentioned earlier, each individual element of the ornamental motif/pattern is featured on the surface of the template which is then bored in the zones in the pattern which correspond to those zones where one intends to reduce the length of the nap, while the pattern remains solid where the nap must remain uncut. This way, the ornamental motif/pattern on the template 2 is made with a full/ empty layout. In fact, the template is bored, from one side through to the other side, in all the zones of the pattern one intends to transfer to the material to be processed, where one intends to reduce the length of the nap.

Once the template 2 has been prepared, the said template being flexible in order to easily follow the movements of the material to be processed in the passages through the rollers of the shearing machine, the said template is positioned on top of the material to be processed.

The system according to the present invention envisages two operating modes.

The first mode is preferably used to make repetitive, geometric motifs/patterns that extend totally or partially over the width of the material and for a set height or extend vertically for a width defined, for example, as square or rectangular layouts that are both single and in groups or lines. In this case, the said template is positioned so as to remain stationary, with the pattern located under the shearing cylinder 40.

In the situation in which the template is fixed, repetitive patterns, with the same form as the recesses on the template, can be obtained along the length of the fabric.

A further way of making a pattern with a fixed template ensues when the template is moved transversely to the fabric, zigzag patterns/motifs are obtained.

In the absence of a template, horizontal streaks of differing length and differing depth can be obtained.

The pattern-making system involves the single or combined use of the methods described above by means of one or more passages.

In addition, the system for anchoring the template is the same, whether it is for patterns formed with the template moving or fixed.

In more detail, the template must be fixed in such a way as to remain taut and stationary, as will be explained below.

The second method is implemented to obtain more complex designs and dimensions that can occupy all the material or single zones or zones that have a non-repetitive arrangement or a random arrangement on the surface of the material.

When the material to be processed is inserted into the shearing machine, the template is placed on top thereof, covering the said material, with appropriate and calibrated pressure, and the material and the template move and travel coupled together, according to the method in question, and during the passage between the wedge 3 and the cylinder 40, the nap is removed from the material being processed in all the exposed (empty) parts of the template, making, therefore, the same ornamental motif/pattern thereupon as shown in Figure 4.

In accordance with the present invention, in the shearing machine, the wedge 3 can be replaced with a cylinder for better accompanying the template 2 and the material 5 under the blades of the cylinder 40 when there are patterns which are particularly complex, for perfect creation of the shape of the pattern.

Once the pattern is finished or when the whole template has passed through, the shearing machine is designed to stop, which means the fabric does not proceed, so as to allow the template to rewind/or be rewound or recovered and be able to start again with another sector of the pattern, continuing with such sequence according to the general pattern one desires to obtain.

The system according to the present invention is totally natural and therefore does not modify the nature of the fabric/material in any of the basic characteristics thereof and leaves the fabric ready for subsequent processing without any kind of problem linked to the processing technique.

In fact, being a mechanical type of processing, the process does not modify or alter the material processed, as occurs, for example, with the machining and techniques currently employed, which result in the fact that, very often, there may be burns, discoloration, or hardening of the fabric (for example, when laser processing or hot pressing are used) and/or the processing performed is not permanent over time (as in the case of velvet, when pressed).

In addition to the explanations so far, the system features a broad range of operation possibilities as far as the synchronous or asynchronous movement is concerned between the template-traction of the material-cylinder with rotary removal blade, the vertical or lateral template movement and/or the traction movement of the material with respect to the rotary removal blade and the forward and backward traction movement of the material and/or template.

All the types of movements illustrated above can be made in all the possible combinations listed above. In fact, all the different combinations of movements are managed by the shearing machine's management and control means, via the vertical machine control software, which is an integral part of the system.

In more detail, with the system in question, types of mechanical processing may be obtained which are able to place on the material being processed any type of motif/pattern, without limits of type or dimension, is able to place on the material being processed the motif/pattern, both continuously and discontinuously, without limitations of interrupting and resuming the pattern, both in the length and the width of the material and is able to give the material being processed effects of fixed or variable depth over the entire thickness of the processed material, with the only limitation being linked to the maximum thickness of the material, obtaining a three-dimensional effect, with different levels of depth between one another, which may be continuous or discontinuous, of the motif/pattern, also on a single material being processed.

The final pattern is obtained by means of one or more passages of the material through the shearing machine and/or by means of the passage over one or more combinations of templates in succession.

In accordance with the present invention, the processing steps that make up the system in question are the following:

- preparing the material to be processed and placing the material to be processed on the cloth hooking bar located in the shearing machine supplying unit;

sliding the material as far as the motif/pattern cutting position;

checking the pattern processing request;

fitting the template to be used for the specific motif/pattern;

setting processing parameters through the vertical software installed on the machine;

starting automatic processing (cutting the pattern in the template through removal of nap from the material); continuous control of supply and recovery;

stopping processing;

discharging the processed material;

removing the template with the motif/pattern from the shearing machine.

The procedure in question also envisages the following supplementary steps when the pattern is complex. In fact, after the processing stop step there is a step of recovering the template and refitting the template to make a second pattern sector and so on, repeating the operation until either the material has run out or the complete pattern has been obtained. Once finished, the material is unloaded and the shearing machine is ready to perform another processing task with a new pattern or the same pattern, but with a new piece of material.

In addition, the subject process also envisages the following additional steps when the pattern features differentiated levels of nap length. After the processing stop step, there is a step in which a second template is inserted to enable the nap to be cut in the zones in which it has to be shorter and so on if there are further levels of nap.

The processing steps illustrated above may be manual and/or automated.

In particular, the procedure in question enables a precise and specific execution of the pattern to be obtained since the cutting of the nap in the passage through the shearing machine determines a clean, defined cut due to the pressure exerted by the template on the material/fabric.

To proceed with the system described above, a template positioning and traction management device is coupled to the shearing machine.

The device comprises, at each end of the template, a traction bar with which a system of "dandy rolls" is engaged, of an essentially known type, which is able to transmit the movement of the template between wedge 3 and shearing machine unit 4, as shown in Figure 3. One variant envisages that the traction and recovery are carried out by means of a pair of rotating cylinders, as shown in Figure 4, or a combination of the cylinder/dandy rolls system or, in any case, any other mechanical system which is able to move the template during the passage under the shearing machine unit.

In addition, the device comprises management and control means which are designed to manage, via specific software, all the template's movements, coordinating the fabric dragging system with the shearing machine unit. The software is able to manage the processing speed, pattern creation time, the length of the pattern being made (which may be variable) and the shearing height.

The dandy rolls are motorised and the movement thereof is controlled by the software. After the predominantly structural description, the invention in question will now be outlined.

With the system according to the present invention, by passing the material to be patterned and the template between the shearing machine unit and the shearing machine wedge contemporaneously, it is possible to cut the nap of the material following a layout engraved into the template and removing the nap, according to the predetermined length, in the empty spaces of the template and leaving the nap uncut where the material is covered by the surface of the template. Patterns can be obtained in which there are different nap lengths in predefined areas. This is achieved with a second template or subsequent templates which, at each passage, cover sectors of material, leaving other sectors uncovered in order to perform the predetermined nap cutting.

Thus the present invention achieves the objects set.

The pattern system for nap fabrics according to the present invention enables the transfer of decorative motifs and/or patterns, without limitations of form and/or dimensions, on nap fabrics or the like, or on materials with a thickness of over 0.1 mm (millimetres). The system in question can be used on all materials, without limitations or the exclusion of compositions, therefore on both natural materials and synthetic or mixed materials, in a permanent form.

Advantageously, since the processing performed according to the procedure in question is a mechanical process, it does not change the original characteristics of the material being processed; in fact, the system receives, processes, and releases the said material, without making alterations, as is the case with hot-operation and laser systems according to the commonly known technique. In particular, the mechanical processing does not leave any kind of residue on the material being processed since the nap residues cut during processing are immediately sucked up and removed from the material.

In addition to the explanations so far, the method in question can be used and performed with any type of nap material.

Furthermore, the procedure enables a machining operation to be performed that has no creative limits in terms of the three-dimensionality of the pattern on the nap materials; in fact, the nap can be cut to different heights, in both horizontal and vertical directions, with differentiated thickness. In addition, the motif/pattern can be placed in any spot on the surface of the material, continuous or discontinuous effects can be obtained, as well as overlapping, increasing or decreasing effects or the coupling thereof.

The procedure in question enables nap materials to be processed by making any type of pattern which, when appropriately optimised, places no limits in terms of dimensions and complexity.

As mentioned earlier, the system enables a motif/pattern to be obtained and made on the material in a single manner (with a single, appropriately positioned pattern) or multiple manner (a pattern can be repeated along the entire height or length or by positioning the pattern at precise points based on the final effect desired, by coding the position thereof using the X and Y coordinates, at adjustable, codeable distances. The system for obtaining patterns on nap materials has contained template preparation costs, which means it is decidedly easier to produce a wide range of patterns and decorative motifs, even complex ones, in order to be able to easily meet the most varied and diverse requests of the public, instead of being limited to the few, very simple patterns provided with the systems according to the commonly known technique.

The processing system in question also enables unique patterns to be made, such situation being unimaginable and impractical, for example, with the engraved cylinders, which require notable numbers of metres of material in order for the system preparation costs to be optimised.

In addition to the explanations so far, the system offers much faster processing times with respect to systems currently in use.

The system in question enables a multitude of ornamental motifs to be made, with any form and dimensions, in addition to be being perfectly made and having a particular and original aesthetic appearance.

Furthermore, the pattern system enables the cut off portions to be cleaned off the fabric at the same time as the cutting, which means it is possible to immediately verify the result of the work, in addition to the fact that the material is immediately usable for other processing or to be delivered.

Advantageously, the pattern system is simple, practical, extremely functional, easily interchangeable and automatable and can be used with all kinds of nap fabric and both natural and synthetic fur.

A still further advantage offered by the present system is derived from the fact the said system does not require special installation on the shearing machine, since the template is simple and easy to replace, and does not require special maintenance; furthermore, no devices which use heat are employed, which wear the materials as happens with systems according to the commonly known technique. A still further and not final aim of the system is the decidedly contained preparation, management, and maintenance costs therefor, which allow greater productivity of the shearing machine.

A further but not final advantage of the present invention is that the said system proves to be remarkably easy to use and structurally simple, and works well.

Naturally, further modifications or variants may be applied to the present invention while remaining within the scope of the invention that characterises it.