AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CHEMICAL OXIDIZING AGENT, A FIXING POLYMER AND MONTMORILLONITE

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more fixing polymers, (iii) montmorillonite, and (iv) water, the pH of the composition being less than or equal to 7.

The present invention also relates to the uses of the above composition for shaping and lightening keratin fibres, and especially human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Finally, the present invention relates to a process for shaping and lightening keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying the above composition to said fibres.

Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair. In the cosmetics sector, oxidizing compositions, which contain one or more oxidizing agents, are generally used in the fields of dyeing, bleaching and permanently reshaping keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair. Among these oxidizing agents, the ones most conventionally used are hydrogen peroxide or compounds that are capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.

In parallel, in the field of hairstyling, in particular among hair products intended for shaping and/or holding the hairstyle, hair compositions are generally constituted of a solution, usually an alcoholic or aqueous solution, and of one or more fixing polymers, as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.

These compositions may be in the form of hair gels, lotions, foams or sprays which are generally applied to wet hair, before performing blow-drying or drying.

The tendency is currently towards the search for a two-in-one product. This enables the user to use a single product instead of two, which affords time saving and avoids the need to use several different products.

In particular, it may be advantageous to combine a composition intended for shaping the hair and/or holding the hairstyle while at the same time gradually lightening the keratin fibres in the course of successive applications. Thus, the user can combine in a single action, for example a daily action, shaping of the hair and/or holding of the hairstyle, and a cosmetic treatment consisting in lightening the hair.

However, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) required for bleaching generally require an acidic composition (i.e. below 7), which is not necessarily compatible with the fixing polymer(s) required for a composition intended for shaping the hair and/or holding the hairstyle.

Thus, it has been found that compositions comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents and one or more fixing polymers, at acidic pH, have problems of stability over time on storage. In particular, these compositions may undergo phase separation (releasing) after two months at 45°C.

Consequently, there is a need to provide a composition intended for shaping the hair and/or holding the hairstyle while at the same time gradually lightening the keratin fibres in the course of successive applications, which is stable over time on storage.

The desired composition should also give the hair light fixing properties, texture and volume, should have a non-tacky and creamy texture and should be easy to apply.

It has now been found that a particular clay, montmorillonite, introduced into an aqueous composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents and one or more fixing polymers and having a pH of less than or equal to 7 makes it possible to obtain a composition for shaping and/or holding keratin fibres while at the same time gradually lightening the keratin fibres in the course of successive applications, which makes it possible to overcome the drawbacks listed above.

Thus, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) one or more fixing polymers, (iii) montmorillonite, and (iv) water, and having a pH of less than or equal to 7.

The composition according to the invention is stable on storage over time, both at room temperature (20°C-25°C) and at higher temperatures, especially at 45°C.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable on storage over time" means that the following physical characteristics of the composition vary little, or even not at all, over time: appearance, pH, rheology (viscosity, consistency), titre of oxidizing agents. In particular, the composition does not give rise to any phase separation (releasing) or exudation phenomena over time, especially after two months of storage, in particular at the intended storage temperature, especially at 45°C.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has a consistent content of oxidizing agents over the storage time.

The composition according to the invention can also give the hair fixing properties, texture and volume, has a non-tacky and creamy texture and is easy to apply.

Moreover, the composition according to the invention gives the hair a soft feel.

A subject of the present invention is also the use of the above composition for shaping and/or holding the style of keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair.

A subject of the present invention is also the use of the above composition for lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Finally, a subject of the present invention is a process for shaping and lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying the above composition to said fibres.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to", respectively.

According to the present patent application, the term "keratin fibres" mainly denotes human keratin fibres and in particular the hair.

The composition of the invention comprises (i) one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

The term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof, percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, such as sodium carbonate peroxide, also known as sodium percarbonate and peracids and precursors thereof; alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, solid hydrogen peroxide- generating chemical oxidizing agents such as urea peroxide and polymer complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, especially those comprising a heterocyclic vinyl monomer such as polyvinylpyrrolidone/IHbC complexes, in particular in powder form; oxidases that produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate (for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase).

More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and mixtures of these compounds.

Even more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) represent from 0.05% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fixing polymers.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "fixing polymer" means any polymer that is capable, by application to the hair, of giving a shape to a head of hair or of holding the hair in an already acquired shape.

The fixing polymer(s) used are preferably chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Anionic fixing polymers that may be mentioned include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 000 000.

The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group which is optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighbouring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl group, R ₃ denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a -CH ₂ -COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.

In formula (I) above, the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms may in particular denote methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymers bearing carboxylic or sulfonic groups that are preferred are:

A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof, including copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, and methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular Amerhold DR 25 sold by the company Amerchol, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, in particular in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE, which are sold by the company BASF.

B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patent application No. 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described especially in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate.

As another anionic fixing polymer from this class, mention may also be made of the branched block butyl acrylate/acrylic acid/methacrylic acid anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company Lubrizol (INCI name: AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer).

C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those whose chain comprises vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allylic or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid containing a long hydrocarbon-based chain such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers to be optionally grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an alpha or beta cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products that fall within this category are the resins 282930, 261314 and 281310 sold by the company National Starch.

Mention may also be made, as copolymer derived from crotonic acid, of crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate terpolymers, and in particular Mexomer PW supplied by the company Chimex.

D) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives or acrylic acid and esters thereof; these polymers may be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 1 13 and GB patent 839 805, and especially those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by the company ISP.

Polymers also falling within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an α-olefm, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the Applicant.

E) polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.

F) polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic, acrylamidoalkylsulfonic or sulfoisophthalate units.

These polymers may be chosen especially from:

- polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between 1000 and 100 000 approximately, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;

- polystyrenesulfonic acid salts and sodium salts, with a molecular mass of about 500 000 and of about 100 000. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719; - polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in patent US 4

128 631;

G) grafted anionic silicone polymers.

The grafted silicone polymers used are preferably chosen from polymers containing a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers containing a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, and mixtures thereof.

H) anionic polyurethanes, possibly comprising silicone grafts and silicones containing hydrocarbon-based grafts.

Examples of fixing polyurethanes that may especially be mentioned include the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl gly col/poly ester diols copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-1, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® PUR by the company BASF, and the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl gly col/polyester diols/silicone diamine copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-6, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® Si PUR A by the company BASF.

Another anionic polyurethane that may also be used is Avalure UR 450. Polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups, such as the polymers AQ55 and AQ48 sold by the company Eastman, may also be used.

According to the invention, the anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by the company BASF, and methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, especially in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE sold by the company BASF; copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers, which are sold under the name Resin 282930 by the company AkzoNobel, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as the monoesterified maleic anhydride/methyl vinyl ether copolymer sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP, Luviset SI PUR, Mexomer PW, elastomeric or non-elastomeric anionic polyurethanes, and polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups. The cationic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:

-CH— C- -CH— C- -CH— C-

2 2 or 2

in which:

R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;

A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxy alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R ₄ , R5 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group;

Ri and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of class (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with C1-C4 alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of class (1), mention may be made of: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc® by the company Hercules,

the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,

- polymers comprising a fatty chain and comprising a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the names Styleze W20 and Styleze W10 by the company ISP,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, and

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by the company ISP;

(2) cationic guar gums, preferably containing quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by the company Meyhall;

(3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;

(4) chitosans or salts thereof; the salts that may be used are in particular chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.

Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight, sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, and chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.

(5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium,

methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

The amphoteric fixing polymers that can be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, in which B denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit deriving from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups deriving from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers; B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon- based group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer containing an ethylenedicarboxylic unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:

1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in patent US 3 836 537. The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallylammonium chloride.

2) polymers comprising units derived:

a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl group,

b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and

c) from at least one basic comonomer such as acrylic and methacrylic acid esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert- butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide, and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylamino ethyl, Ν,Ν'- dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used.

3) crosslinked and alkylated polyamino amides partially or totally derived from polyamino amides of general formula (II):

CO— R-CO— z

(II) in which R ₄ represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid with an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of an alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms with these acids, or from a group deriving from the addition of any one of said acids with a bis- primary amine or bis-secondary-derived amine, and Z denotes a group of a bis-primary or mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene-polyamine, and preferably represents:

a) in proportions of from 60 mol% to 100 mol%, the group

NH- (CH ₂ )— NH-

(III) in which x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or else x = 3 and p = 2,

this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine or dipropylenetriamine;

b) in proportions of from 0 to 40 mol%, the group (III) above, in which x = 2 and p = l, which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine; c) in proportions of from 0 to 20 mol%, the group -NH-(CH2) ₆ -NH- deriving from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and being alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or salts thereof.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4- trimethyladipic acid and terephthalic acid, and acids bearing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula (IV): in which R ₅ denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acryl amide or methacrylamide group, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3, Re and R ₇ represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, Rs and R represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in Rs and R9 does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.

5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomer units corresponding to the following formulae:

(V) (VI) (VII) the unit (V) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (VI) in proportions of between 5% and 50%> and the unit (VII) in proportions of between 30%> and 90%>, it being understood that, in this unit (VII), Rio represents a group of formula: in which, if q = 0, Rn , R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted with one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue NR17R18R19, at least one of the groups R17, Ri8 and Ri being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;

or, if q = 1, Rn , R12 and R13 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

6) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan.

7) polymers of units corresponding to general formula (IX), described, for example, in French patent 1 400 366:

in which R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl group, Ri5 denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, Ri ₆ denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R17 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R18- N(Ri6>2, Ri8 representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )- group and Ri6 having the meanings given above,

and also the higher homologues of these groups, containing up to 6 carbon atoms.

8) amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X-, chosen from:

a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

-D-X-D-X-D- (X) in which D denotes a group

— N N—

and X denotes the symbol E or E', where E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which may comprise, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups.

b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (XI) in which D denotes a group

— N N—

and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and which contains one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and necessarily comprises one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions, betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.

(9) (Ci-Cs)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an Ν,Ν-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N,N- dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also comprise other vinyl comonomers, such as viny lcapro lactam.

The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen in particular from branched block copolymers comprising:

(a) nonionic units derived from at least one monomer chosen from C1-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylates, N-mono-(C2-Ci2 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides and N,N-di(C ₂ -Ci2 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides,

(b) anionic units derived from at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and

(c) polyfunctional units derived from at least one monomer comprising at least two polymerizable unsaturated functional groups,

and preferably having a structure constituted of hydrophobic blocks onto which are fixed, via polyfunctional units (c), several blocks that are more hydrophilic.

Preferably, the amphoteric polymers have at least two glass transition temperatures (Tg), at least one of which is greater than 20°C and the other of which is less than 20°C.

The preferred amphoteric polymers are polymers comprising units derived: a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl group,

b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and

c) from at least one basic comonomer such as acrylic and methacrylic acid esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

Mention may be made in particular of the polymers sold under the name Amphomer by the company National Starch.

The fixing polymer(s) used in the composition of the invention may advantageously be chosen from nonionic fixing polymers.

The nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from:

- polyalkyloxazolines,

- vinyl acetate homopolymers,

- vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate,

- acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company

Rohm & Haas under the names Primal® AC-261 K and Eudragit® NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, or by the company Hoechst under the name Appretan® N9212,

- copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates, such as the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm & Haas,

- styrene homopolymers,

- styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas® SD 215 and Rhodopas® DS 910 sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine,

- polyamides,

- vinyllactam homopolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF,

- vinyllactam copolymers such as poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymers, such as the product sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF, and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by the company BASF, and

- poly( vinyl alcohols), and

- mixtures of these polymers.

The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, more preferentially such as those mentioned above.

In a most particularly preferred manner, the nonionic fixing polymer(s) are chosen from vinyllactam homopolymers and copolymers, more preferentially vinyllactam copolymers, even more preferentially chosen from poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymers, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers and mixtures of these polymers, and better still the fixing polymer is a nonionic fixing polymer chosen from poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers.

Preferably, the fixing polymer(s) represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises montmorillonite. This montmorillonite may be of natural or synthetic origin.

Use may thus be made of a natural clay rich in montmorillonite, such as the clays known under the name Terre de Sommieres.

An example of a synthetic montmorillonite that may be mentioned is the montmorillonite sold under the name Gel White H by the company Rockwood Additives or Gel White-H XR by the company Byk Additives & Instruments. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by the company Kunimine.

Preferably, the montmorillonite represents from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may preferably further comprise one or more fatty substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20- 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 ⁵ Pa), with a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%. The fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon- based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethy Icy clopentasilo xane .

The fatty substances are, moreover, generally non-(poly)oxyalkylenated and non-(poly)glycerolated. In other words, the fatty substances do not comprise in their structure a (poly)ethylene oxide or (poly)glycerol or (poly)propylene glycol unit.

The fatty substance(s) may be chosen from solid fatty substances and/or liquid fatty substances (also known as "oils"), and mixtures thereof.

The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" which is liquid, i.e. which is capable of flowing under the action of its own weight at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ^χ 10 ⁵ Pa). Preferably, the viscosity at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^"1 of the oil is between 10 ^"3 Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It may be measured using a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with cone-plate geometry or an equivalent machine.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty substance" means a fatty substance that is not liquid at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013>< 10 ⁵ Pa), in particular a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s ^"1 under the conditions mentioned above.

The solid fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention generally have a melting point above room temperature, preferably a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C, preferentially ranging from 46 to 95°C. In particular, the fatty substance(s) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based fatty substances, silicone fatty substances, fluoro fatty substances, and mixtures of these compounds.

The term "silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom. The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance not containing any silicon (Si) atoms.

According to one embodiment, the silicone fatty substances may be a liquid silicone oil (also known as silicone oil or liquid silicone). The term "liquid silicone" means an organopolysiloxane that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013>< 10 ⁵ Pa).

Preferably, the liquid silicone(s) are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

The polydialkylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups, and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA). The polyorganosiloxanes comprising aryl groups are chosen in particular from polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

The term "fluoro fatty substance" means a fatty substance containing at least one fluorine atom.

In particular, fluoro fatty substances that may be mentioned include fluoro oils, for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclo butane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyiso butane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

The term "hydrocarbon-based fatty substance" means a fatty substance formed essentially of, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

In particular, preferably, the hydrocarbon-based fatty substance(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and hydrocarbon-based solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based fatty substance(s) are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, C ₆ -Ci6 alkanes, triglycerides or oils of plant origin, liquid synthetic triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, or mixtures thereof.

As indicated previously, the hydrocarbon-based fatty substance(s) may be hydrocarbon-based oils.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from:

- halogenated or non-halogenated, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, containing less than 16 carbon atoms, for instance hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isodecane or tridecane, or more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes of formula CionH[(20n)+2] in which n ranges from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, and mixtures thereof;

- unsaturated or branched liquid fatty alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as those of formula C _n H2n+iOH with n being an integer between 6 and 20 inclusive. Mention may be made especially of oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol;

- triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; and

- liquid esters other than triglycerides.

These esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term

"sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

The hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from the polydecenes of formula Cio _n H[(20n)+2] in which n ranges from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, fatty alcohols, esters and in particular esters of fatty alcohols or of fatty acids, sugar esters or diesters of C12-C24 fatty acids, cyclic esters, cyclic ethers, mineral oils, plant oils or animal oils, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from the polydecenes of formula Cio _n H[(20n)+2] in which n ranges from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol, esters of fatty alcohols or of fatty acids, liquid petroleum jelly and liquid paraffin, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, the substance(s) that are liquid at room temperature are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second preferred variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, which is preferably hydrocarbon-based. The composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more solid hydrocarbon-based fatty substances.

Preferably, the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from fatty alcohols, and esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, and/or waxes, and also mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from waxes and/or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from solid hydrocarbon-based fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid hydrocarbon-based fatty substances are chosen from waxes and/or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated solid fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and/or solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and comprise from 14 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from saturated and linear fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 30 and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, it is understood that the fatty alcohols do not comprise any C ₂ - C3 (poly)oxyalkylene unit(s) or any (poly)glycerol unit(s).

Preferably, the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and/or cetylstearyl alcohol may preferably be used.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon-based solid fatty substance(s) may also be chosen from solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols; mention may be made especially of the solid esters derived from C -C ₂₆ fatty acids and from C -C ₂₆ fatty alcohols.

Preferably, these esters may be chosen from octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate, preferably chosen from myristyl stearate and/or myristyl palmitate, for instance the mixture of myristyl stearate and of myristyl palmitate sold under the reference Crodamol Ms-PA (SG) by the company Croda.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C that may be up to 120°C.

The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.

Preferably, the measuring protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, and is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using the texture analyser sold under the name ΤΑ-ΤΧ2Ϊ by Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/second and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes or fluoro waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 25°C and better still greater than 45°C.

The wax(es) that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from apolar waxes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, 5a, is equal to 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

In particular, the term "apolar wax" means a wax that is constituted solely of apolar wax, rather than a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.

As illustrations of apolar waxes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes and polyethylene waxes.

Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L

Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.

A polymethylene wax that may be mentioned is Cirebelle 108 sold by Cirebelle.

An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.

As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of

Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.

As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.

The wax(es) that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from polar waxes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5a, is other than 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

In particular, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: The three dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ _ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);

- 5a is determined by the equation δ _α = (δ _ρ ² + 5h ² ) ^½ .

The parameters δ _ρ , 5h, 5D and 5 _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone waxes.

The term "silicone wax" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.

The term "hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon- based wax. As hydrocarbon-based polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred. According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxy 1 (OH) group.

Use may especially be made, as ester wax, of:

- ester waxes, such as those chosen from:

i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which ranges from 25 °C to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypoly ester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.

Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate

(octacosanoate), such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by Clariant.

ii) bis(l ,l , l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T- 4S® by the company Heterene,

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-

COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not comprise one or more unsaturations and which is preferably linear and unsaturated,

iv) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils bearing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sop him. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as the product sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, or else; v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.

Examples of alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include the wax

Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

The wax(es) may be chosen more particularly from beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.

Even more preferentially, the wax(es) may be chosen from beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax and candelilla wax, and mixtures thereof, and in particular beeswax.

When it is present, the wax generally represents from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature, chosen in particular from those as described above.

When the composition comprises one or more solid fatty substances, they preferably represent a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises one or more fatty substances, they preferably represent a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably one or more hydrocarbon-based fatty substances, more preferentially one or more solid hydrocarbon-based fatty substances, chosen in particular from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, and mixtures thereof, and better still chosen from waxes and/or solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactants, more particularly chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178. They are chosen especially from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkyl glucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acyl- methylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

Unless otherwise mentioned, for these surfactants the term 'fatty compound"

(for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from C0 ₂ H, CO2 , SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, O2PO2H, O2PO2H- and O2PO2 ^2" groups.

The anionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen especially from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl poly ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfo nates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefm sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfo succinamates, acylisethio nates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and poly glycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they are not in the form of zinc salts, and they may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl- 1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Use is preferably made of (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C24)alkyl ether sulfates, which are optionally oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts. More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (Cio-C2o)alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:

- those corresponding to the general formula (XII) below:

R,

N X

R.

(XII)

in which the groups Ri to R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R ₄ denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C ₂ - C ₆ )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci ₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C6)alkyl, (Ci ₂ -C ₂₂ )alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X ^" is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci- C ₄ )alkylarylsulfo nates .

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XII), the ones that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl ^® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is preferred in particular to use the chloride salts of these compounds.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (XIII) below:

(XIII) in which R ₅ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Re represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, Rs represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and X ^" is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R5 and Re denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group and Rs denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat ^® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XIV):

+ +

10 12

(CH 2 ₂ )/3 14 2X

11 13

(XIV) in which R9 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, Rio is chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(Rioa)(Ri ia)N-(CH ₂ )3, Rg _a , Rioa, Ri ia, Ri i , R12, R13 and Ri4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XV) below:

(C _s H _2s O)-R ₁₈ R ₁₇ -C-(OC _r H _2r ) _y — N— (C _t H _2t O)-R ₁₆ χ

^R 15 (XV) in which:

Ri5 is chosen from Ci-C ₆ alkyl groups and Ci-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

Ri6 is chosen from:

- the group

- groups R20, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci- C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

Ri8 is chosen from:

o

I I

R ₁ — C—

- the group

- groups R22, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

Ri7, Ri9 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^" is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then Ris denotes R22.

The alkyl groups R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxy ethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When Ri6 is a hydrocarbon-based group R20, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When Ris is a hydrocarbon-based group R22, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^" is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.

The anion X ^" is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use may be made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (XV) in which:

Ris denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

x and y are equal to 1 ;

z is equal to 0 or 1 ; r, s and t are equal to 2;

Ri6 is chosen from:

- the group

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom;

Ri8 is chosen from:

o

I I

R ₁ — C—

- the group

- a hydrogen atom;

Ri7, Ri9 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Examples that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (XV) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,

triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart ^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by the company CECA or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4137180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, which may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium salts.

The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (XII) and those of formula (XV) and even more preferentially from those of formula (XII).

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the invention may especially be optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C ₂ o)alkyl betaines, sulfo betaines, (C8-C ₂ o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines or (C8-C ₂ o)alkylamido(C6- C8)alkylsulfo betaines.

Among the optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (Bl) and (B2) below:

Ra-C(0)-NHCH ₂ CH ₂ N ⁺ (Rb)(Rc)-CH ₂ C(0)0 ^" , M ⁺ , X (B1) in which formula (Bl): Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

X ^" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;

or alternatively M ⁺ and X ^" are absent;

Ra'-C(0)-NH-CH2-CH2-N(B)(B') (B2) in which formula:

B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X';

B' represents the group -(CH2) _Z Y', with z = 1 or 2;

X represents the group -CH ₂ -C(0)OH, -CH ₂ -C(0)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(0)OH, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

Y ^* represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ -Z';

Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

Ra' represents a Cio-C ₃ o alkyl or Cio-C ₃ o alkenyl group of an acid Ra'- COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C ₁₇ group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ^® C2M Concentrate.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (B'2):

Ra"- H-CH(Y")-(CH2)n-C(0) H(CH ₂ )n'-N(Rd)(Re) (B'2) in which formula:

Y" represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-S0 ₃ -Z";

Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

Ra" represents a Cio-C ₃ o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-C(0)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;

n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (B'2), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (Cs-C ₂ o alkyl) betaines such as cocoyl betaine, (Cs-C ₂ o alkyl)amido(C ₂ -C8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropyl betaine and cocoyl betaine.

When they are present, the surfactant(s) preferably represent from 0.1% to

20% by weight and better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention comprises water. Preferably, the water represents from 50% to 95% by weight and more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of water and of at least one organic solvent to dissolve the compounds that are not sufficiently water-soluble.

More particularly, the organic solvents are chosen from linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-l,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially of C1 -C4, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The common solvents described above, if they are present, usually represent from 1% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention has a pH of less than or equal to 7.

Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 2 and 7, more preferentially between 2 and 6 and even more preferentially between 2 and 5.

The pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetic compositions, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic acids, for instance compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.

Preferably, phosphoric acid is used as acidifying agent.

The basifying agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid. The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.

The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, preferably of less than 10 and even more advantageously of less than 6. It should be noted that it concerns the pKb corresponding to the function having the highest basicity. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (XVI) below:

^R> \

N - W - N

/ \

^Ry ^ (xvi) in which W is a divalent Ci to C ₆ alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a Ci to C ₆ alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR _U ; R _x , R _y , R _z , Rt and R _u , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci to C ₆ alkyl, Ci to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or Ci to C ₆ aminoalkyl radical.

Examples of amines of formula (XVI) that may be mentioned include 1,3- diaminopropane, l,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.

As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents and pigments. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the composition according to the invention.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is generally in the form of a cream.

Thus, the composition according to the invention generally has at room temperature a viscosity at 25°C of greater than 50 cps (mPa.s), preferably between 200 and 100 000 cps (mPa.s), more preferentially between 500 and 50 000 cps (mPa.s), more preferentially still between 800 and 10 000 cps (mPa.s), and better still between 1000 and 8000 cps (mPa.s), the viscosity preferably being measured at a spin speed of 200 rpm using a rheometer such as a Rheomat ^® RM 180 equipped with a No. 3 or 4 spindle, the measurement more preferentially being taken after 30 seconds of rotation of the spindle (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed).

The composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.2 and 100 Pa.s, preferably between 0.5 and 50 Pa.s and more preferentially between 0.8 and 10 Pa.s.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity at 25°C of between 1 and 8 Pa.s.

In particular, the viscosity is a rotational viscosity. More particularly, the rotational viscosity is measured at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the viscosity is measured at a spin speed of 200 rpm using a

Rheomat ^® RM 180.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for shaping and/or holding the style of keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair.

A subject of the present invention is also the use of the composition as defined above for lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair. Finally, another subject of the present invention is a process for shaping and lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said fibres the composition as defined above.

In the process according to the invention, the composition may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, and particularly to wet keratin fibres.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed out after application to the keratin fibres.

Preferably, the process according to the invention is repeated several times. This makes it possible to obtain gradual lightening of the keratin fibres.

The examples that follow illustrate the present invention, and should not in any way be considered as limiting the invention.

EXAMPLES

I Preparation of the compositions

Compositions A to C were prepared according to Table 1 below by the ingredients in the contents indicated as grams of active material.

Table 1

(1) Lithium magnesium sodium silicate II Tests and results

The viscosity measurements are taken using a Rheomat RM180 at 25°C, at a spin speed of 200 rpm, with a No. 3 spindle (or even a No. 4 spindle in the case of very thick compositions) (measurement at 30 seconds). The values are indicated in centipoises.

The mean viscosities obtained in the laboratory at to and room temperature are on average 55 UD M3 with a Rheomat® RM 180 (minimum 45 UD M3 = 21 10 cps). The formulation then changes at 2M45 to reach 30 UD M4 = 7370 cps.

The stability results obtained with compositions A to C are given in Table 2 below.

Table 2

A B (inv) C

Viscosity at 25 °C

1940 1980 2070 (in centipoises)

Values at to pH 4.4 4.4 4.2

Titre (% of H2O2) 2.75 2.55 2.65

Viscosity at 25 °C

2980 2660 2660

Values at 1 (in centipoises)

month (room pH 5.6 4.3 3.8 temperature)

Titre (% of H2O2) 2.61 2.52 2.53

Viscosity at 25 °C

2980 2320 4790 (in centipoises)

Values at 1

month (4°C) pH 5.4 4.56 3.8

Titre (% of H2O2) 2.68 2.54 2.52 Viscosity at 25 °C

2400 2400

Values at 1 (in centipoises)

month (45°C) pH (1) 3.80 3.75

Titre (% of H2O2) 2.30 -

Viscosity at 25 °C

2860 980

Values at 2 (in centipoises)

months (room pH (1) 4.1 3.7 temperature)

Titre (% of H2O2) 2.50 2.48

Viscosity at 25 °C

3130 (2) (in centipoises)

Values at 2

pH (1) 3.6

months (45°C) -

Titre (% of H ₂ 02) 2.10 -

(1) Increase in the volume of the composition and degradation of the gen peroxide

(2) Instability of the formulation: presence of releasing

Composition (A) comprising laponite shows an increase in the volume of the composition (due to the degradation of the hydrogen peroxide) after as little as 10 days of storage at 45°C, in contrast with composition (B) according to the invention comprising montmorillonite, which remains stable in terms of appearance, viscosity, pH and also H2O2 titre after 2 months of storage at 45°C.

After 1 month of storage at 4°C, composition (A) especially shows a marked increase in pH and viscosity, in contrast with composition (B) in which the variations are smaller.

Montmorillonite thus contributes towards improving the stability of hydrogen peroxide, but also towards stabilizing the texture of the composition.

Composition (C) which does not comprise any clay shows in particular a large increase in viscosity after 1 month of storage at 4°C and also a drop in pH. After 2 months of storage at room temperature, a drop in viscosity and pH is observed, along with the appearance of a release after 2 months of storage at 45°C.